budapest walking tour rick steves

Get recommended reads, deals, and more from Hachette

By clicking ‘Sign Up,’ I acknowledge that I have read and agree to Hachette Book Group’s Privacy Policy and Terms of Use

Site Preferences

Free shipping on orders $45+ Shop Now .

Rick Steves Budapest

Contributors

By Rick Steves

By Cameron Hewitt

Formats and Prices

• Trade Paperback
• ebook $16.99 $21.99 CAD
• Trade Paperback $22.99 $28.99 CAD

This item is a preorder. Your payment method will be charged immediately, and the product is expected to ship on or around November 21, 2023. This date is subject to change due to shipping delays beyond our control.

Also available from:

• Apple Books
• Barnes & Noble
• Google Play

Description

Now more than ever, you can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling through Budapest.   Admire opulent Golden Age architecture, soak in a thermal bath, and wander the winding streets of old villages: with Rick Steves, Budapest is yours to discover! Inside Rick Steves Budapest you’ll find:

• Fully updated comprehensive coverage of Budapest, as well as day trips to Gödöllö Palace, Lázár Lovaspark, Holókö, the Danube Bend, Szentendre, Visegrád, Esztergom, and more
• Rick’s strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites
• Top sights and hidden gems, from the ornate Parliament building and the Széchnyi Baths to local unicum distilleries (Hungary’s favorite spirit!)
• How to connect with local culture: Catch a world-class opera performance, dive into a bowl of goulash, or sample paprika at the Great Market Hall
• Beat the crowds, skip the lines, and avoid tourist traps with Rick’s candid, humorous insight
• The best places to eat, sleep, and relax with a glass of pálinka
• Self-guided walking tours of lively neighborhoods and historic museums
• Detailed neighborhood maps for exploring on the go
• Useful resources including a packing list, a Hungarian phrase book, a historical overview, and recommended reading
• Over 500 bible-thin pages include everything worth seeing without weighing you down

Make the most of every day and every dollar with Rick Steves Budapest .

Expanding your trip? Try Rick Steves Eastern Europe .

"The country's foremost expert in European travel for Americans."

"Steves is an absolute master at unlocking the hidden gems of the world's greatest cities, towns, and monuments."

“Every country-specific travel guidebook from the Rick Steves publishing empire can be counted upon for clear organization, specificity and timeliness."

"Pick the best accommodations and restaurants from Rick Steves…and a traveler searching for good values will seldom go wrong or be blindsided."

"His guidebooks are approachable, silly, and even subtly provocative in their insistence that Americans show respect for the people and places they are visiting and not the other way around."

"Travel, to Steves, is not some frivolous luxury—it is an engine for improving humankind, for connecting people and removing their prejudices, for knocking distant cultures together to make unlikely sparks of joy and insight. Given that millions of people have encountered the work of Steves over the last 40 years, on TV or online or in his guidebooks, and that they have carried those lessons to untold other millions of people, it is fair to say that his life’s work has had a real effect on the collective life of our planet."

"[Rick Steves] laces his guides with short and vivid histories and a scholar's appreciation for Renaissance art yet knows the best place to start an early tapas crawl in Madrid if you have kids. His clear, hand-drawn maps are Pentagon-worthy; his hints about how to go directly to the best stuff at the Uffizi, avoid the crowds at Versailles and save money everywhere are guilt-free."

"Steves is a walking, talking European encyclopedia who yearns to inspire Americans to venture 'beyond Orlando.'"

“…he’s become the unofficial guide for entire generations of North American travelers, beloved for his earnest attitude and dad jeans."

You May Also Like

Newsletter Signup

Rick Steves

About the author.

Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually.  He does all of this with the help of more than 100 well-traveled staff members at Rick Steves’ Europe in Edmonds, WA (near Seattle). When not on the road, Rick is active in his church and with advocacy groups focused on economic and social justice, drug policy reform, and ending hunger. To recharge, Rick plays piano, relaxes at his family cabin in the Cascade Mountains, and spends time with his son Andy and daughter Jackie. Find out more about Rick at http://www.ricksteves.com and on Facebook.

Learn more about this author

Cameron Hewitt

Born in Denver and raised in central Ohio,  Cameron Hewitt  settled in Seattle in 2000. Ever since, he has spent three months each year in Europe, contributing to guidebooks, tours, radio and television shows, and other media for Rick Steves’ Europe, where he serves as content manager. Cameron married his high school sweetheart (and favorite travel partner), Shawna, and enjoys taking pictures, trying new restaurants, and planning his next trip.

Fulfillment by Amazon (FBA) is a service we offer sellers that lets them store their products in Amazon's fulfillment centers, and we directly pack, ship, and provide customer service for these products. Something we hope you'll especially enjoy: FBA items qualify for FREE Shipping and Amazon Prime.

If you're a seller, Fulfillment by Amazon can help you grow your business. Learn more about the program.

Download the free Kindle app and start reading Kindle books instantly on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required .

Read instantly on your browser with Kindle for Web.

Using your mobile phone camera - scan the code below and download the Kindle app.

Follow the authors

Image Unavailable

• To view this video download Flash Player

Rick Steves Budapest Paperback – June 11, 2019

There is a newer edition of this item:.

• Comprehensive coverage for spending a week or more exploring Budapest
• Rick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites
• Top sights and hidden gems, from the ornate Parliament building and the Széchnyi Baths to local unicum distilleries (Hungary's favorite spirit!)
• How to connect with local culture: Catch a world-class opera performance, dive into a bowl of goulash, or sample paprika at the Great Market Hall
• Beat the crowds, skip the lines, and avoid tourist traps with Rick's candid, humorous insight
• The best places the eat, sleep, and relax with a glass of pálinka
• Self-guided walking tours of lively neighborhoods and historic museums
• Detailed neighborhood maps for exploring on the go
• Useful resources including a packing list, a Hungarian phrase book, a historical overview, and recommended reading
• Over 500 bible-thin pages include everything worth seeing without weighing you down
• Complete, up-to-date information on every neighborhood in Budapest, as well as day trips to Gödöllö Palace, Lázár Lovaspark, Holókö, the Danube Bend, Szentendre, Visegrád, Esztergom, and more
• Part of series Rick Steves
• Print length 513 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Rick Steves
• Publication date June 11, 2019
• Dimensions 4.7 x 1 x 8.05 inches
• ISBN-10 1641710896
• ISBN-13 978-1641710893
• See all details

Similar items that may ship from close to you

Editorial Reviews

About the author, product details.

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Rick Steves; 6th edition (June 11, 2019)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 513 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1641710896
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1641710893
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 13.4 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 4.7 x 1 x 8.05 inches
• #10 in General Hungary Travel Guides
• #16 in Budapest Travel Guides
• #1,206 in Tourist Destinations & Museums Guides

About the authors

Rick steves.

Guidebook author and travel TV host Rick Steves is America's most respected authority on European travel. Rick took his first trip to Europe in 1969, visiting piano factories with his father, a piano importer. As an 18-year-old, Rick began traveling on his own, funding his trips by teaching piano lessons. In 1976, he started his business, Rick Steves' Europe, which has grown from a one-man operation to a company with a staff of 100 full-time, well-travelled employees at his headquarters in Washington state. There he produces more than 50 guidebooks on European travel, America's most popular travel series on public television, a weekly hour-long national public radio show, a weekly syndicated column, and free travel information available through his travel center and ricksteves.com. Rick Steves' Europe also runs a successful European tour program. Rick Steves lives and works in his hometown of Edmonds, Washington. His office window overlooks his old junior high school.

Cameron Hewitt

Cameron Hewitt was born in Denver, grew up in Central Ohio, and moved to Seattle in 2000 to help Rick Steves research and write America's bestselling guidebooks. Since then, Cameron has spent 100 days each year exploring Europe. He has traveled to and written about more than 35 European countries and has co-authored guidebooks on Croatia, Budapest, Iceland, Scotland, Greece, Berlin, and many more. Cameron also serves as Content and Editorial Director at Rick Steves' Europe, Inc.; guides Rick Steves tours in Europe; contributes to Rick's television series and radio program; presents travel talks; and blogs about his travels at www.cameronhewitt.com. The Temporary European: Lessons and Confessions of a Professional Traveler — a collection of travel stories from 25 years of exploring Europe — was published by Travelers' Tales in early 2022. Cameron married his high school sweetheart and favorite travel partner, Shawna; they live in the Phinney Ridge neighborhood of Seattle, Washington.

Customer reviews

Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.

• Sort reviews by Top reviews Most recent Top reviews

Top reviews from the United States

There was a problem filtering reviews right now. please try again later..

Top reviews from other countries

• Amazon Newsletter
• About Amazon
• Accessibility
• Sustainability
• Press Center
• Investor Relations
• Amazon Devices
• Amazon Science
• Sell on Amazon
• Sell apps on Amazon
• Supply to Amazon
• Protect & Build Your Brand
• Become an Affiliate
• Become a Delivery Driver
• Start a Package Delivery Business
• Advertise Your Products
• Self-Publish with Us
• Become an Amazon Hub Partner
• › See More Ways to Make Money
• Amazon Visa
• Amazon Store Card
• Amazon Secured Card
• Amazon Business Card
• Shop with Points
• Credit Card Marketplace
• Reload Your Balance
• Amazon Currency Converter
• Your Account
• Your Orders
• Shipping Rates & Policies
• Amazon Prime
• Returns & Replacements
• Manage Your Content and Devices
• Recalls and Product Safety Alerts
• Conditions of Use
• Privacy Notice
• Consumer Health Data Privacy Disclosure
• Your Ads Privacy Choices

Budapest  >  Central Budapest Free Walking Tour

‎ Budapest Tourist Tips ‎ |  Suggested Itineraries For Budapest

• Central Pest Walking Tour
• Jewish Quarter Walking Tour
• Castle Hill Walking Tour
• City Park Walking Tour
• Gellért Hill Walking Tour
• More Sights
• Best Day Trips
• Helpful Visitor Tips
• Suggested Itineraries

Free Budapest Walking Tour:

Location :  Pest ( East Side of Danube River ) Cost :  Free, Self-Guided ( Museum and sight costs below ) Style :  Do-It-Yourself Walking Tour ( Self Guided ) Start :  Holocaust Shoe Memorial Stop :  Grand Market Hall Walking Distance :  3 Miles Time :  1 hour of walking ( 4 hours with sights; +1 hour for Parliament Tour ) Fun Scale :  9 out of 10

Central Pest Overview:

Sitting of the Eastern bank of the Danube River is Budapest’s lively and history Pest neighborhood.  Pest was founded in was an economic powerhouse in the 11th-13th Centuries until it was sacked by the Mongols in 1241.  The city made a comeback through the Middle Ages which later lead to grand buildings and cathedrals.  After severe flooding spread 8 feet of water through Pest, it merged with Buda and Óbuda on the Western bank in 1873.

Even through all of the changes and wars, Pest has retained many historic monuments like Saint Stephen’s Basilica and the Hungarian Parliament to remain the heart of Budapest.  Our self-guided walking tour through central Pest is the perfect way to get a feel for the Budapest’s history.  Different sights will highlight Pest’s war-torn past, the days of power grandeur, plus an easy to love culture and flair.

Pest Walking Tour Sights:

1. holocaust shoe memorial :.

About The Holocaust Shoe Memorial :  On first glance, the Holocaust Shoe Memorial looks like just a collection of bronzed shoes by the waterside, but knowing the history of this spot makes a visit truly moving.  During WWII, the Nazi’s secret police group  Arrow Cross  often executed Jews and other citizens here by shooting them then pushing them into the Danube River.  All of the victims were required to line up and take their shoes off not knowing which of them would be shot.  When the Nazis wanted to save bullets they would tie a few people together, shoot one, push the group into the freezing river, and watch the dead bodies drag the entire group down.  The Memorial’s 60, 1940’s era shoes represent the shoes left behind by the fallen Arrow Cross victims and you really should not missed it.

As you walk North along the river the big white mansion on your right is the  Office of the Prime Minister .  The building once was a mansion for Hungarian aristocrats, and the grandmother of US Sectary of State and former Presidential candidate John Kerry’s grandmother was born here as a daughter of the chambermaid.

2. Hungarian Parliament Building :

About The Hungarian Parliament Building :  The huge Gothic-style Hungarian Parliament, or House of the Nation, is the formal  seat of government for Hungary  and the most photographed monument in Budapest.  The massive 315-foot-tall and 879-foot-long building is a symbol of Hungary’s power as it dominates the Eastern bank of the Danube River.  The Parliament’s silhouette of the white Gothic spires, red domes, and 242 sculptures is breathtaking.

Construction of the Parliament started shortly after Budapest was united out of three cities ( Óbuda, Buda, and Pest ) in 1873 to centralize Hungary’s government.  Although it wasn’t completed until in 1904, the building was symbolically consecrated 1896 to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the country being formed.  It is impossible to not be impressed by the grandeur of the Hungarian Parliament with its exterior spires and interior filled with carved woodwork, stained glass windows, Gothic arches.  We will talk more about the interior of the Parliament next on this free Budapest walking tour, but first we want to point out a few other of the interesting exterior features you should know about.

On the North side of the Hungarian Parliament Building is a small park with a memorial statue from 1975 for controversial former president Károlyi Mihály (ruled from  1918-19 ).  Early in his political career, Mihály was credited with helping give women, veterans, and other citizens the right to vote in 1915.  He became Prime Minister after opposing the previous leader ( who got them into WWI ), and then quickly turned Hungary into a democracy.  With an anti-war mindset, Mihály pushed for Hungary to make peace with the Allied Nations to end WWI, but was forced out of power after his efforts led to too many territory concessions.  In the end, Hungary did have to give up further land to end the war with the  Peace Treaty of Trianon  which also led to a long economic decline.  With these negative circumstances considered, modern Hungarians look past the bad things under Mihály and honor the good intentions he had for the country.

Another larger statue around the Parliament grounds is of former president  Lajos Kossuth  (ruled from  1848-49 ) on a red stone pedestal directing both the people and the army.  Kossuth was the President through the Revolution of 1848-49 and was a strong social advocate who signed the first law which recognizing minority rights in Europe.  The inscription at the memorial calls him “Father of Hungarian Democracy, Hungarian Statesman, Freedom Fighter”.

3. Hungarian Parliament Interior :

About The Hungarian Parliament Interior :  While we love the admire the Parliament Building from every possible angle on the outside, you really need to see the gorgeous interior.  In total there are 10 courtyards, 28 staircases, and 691 rooms inside the massive complex.

On a tour of the interior of the Hungarian Parliament you will see some of the most beautiful rooms for 50 minutes with a guide.  The tours start with a walk down the gold-plated Staircase XVII framed by statues, stained glass.  Old Upper House Hall which has colorful paintings of Hungary’s royal families and murals depicting the historical role of the nobility in a medieval beer hall style room.  This leads to the Upper House Lobby which is the most exotic space in the Parliament resembling the inside of an Ottoman Sultan’s palace .  The large wrap around murals in both the Nándorfehérvár and Munkácsy Halls are also very impressive with their depictions of religious and battle scenes.

Reaching the geometric center of the House of Parliament and the symbolic center of Hungary, you enter the sixteen-sided Dome Hall.  Since 2000 this vast space is has been home to the Holy Crown Of Hungary  protected 24 hours a day by two royal guards.  The Byzantine-style royal crown dates back to the between 1031-1070s, was made in Constantinople ( modern-day Istanbul ), and was used to coronate over 50 Hungarian Kings.  Make to look up at the stunning ceiling while inside the Dome Hall which looks like a radiant sun beaming light down on you.

We love the main corridors filled with statues representing the different Medieval professions from horse herders to stonecutters, but the Grand Stairway is the most impressive space.  The combination of arches, ceiling murals, and lighting make the Grand Stairway feel like the inside of an old-world castle.

General Hours : April-October 8am-6pm; November-March 8am-4pm.   Guided Tours :  50-minute tours leave from the underground entrance on the park side of the building toward the East ( away from the river ).  Tours in English at 10am, Noon, 1pm, 1:45pm & 3pm; many other languages available throughout the day.   Tour Cost :  6000 HUF for Adults; 2400 HUF for EU Citizens; Students Half price; Kids 6 & Under Free.   Buying Tickets :  Tickets can be purchased in advance to save yourself waiting in line and can sell out if you don’t buy in advance.   Parliament Website :  ( HERE ).

4. Museum of Ethnography ( Neprajzi Muzeum ):

About The Museum of Ethnography :  The Museum of Ethnography is a great way to get an eclectic mix of cultures throughout the World all in one building.  They have a diverse collection of more than  200,000 ethnographic artifacts , as well as historical photographs, manuscripts, folk music recordings, and videos of everything you can think of.  Its European collection covers every ethnic group on the continent, its Oceania and Africa Collections are assembled by famous Hungarian world travelers and ethnologists, and its collections of authentic artifacts from America, Asia, and Indonesia, are also pretty awesome.

The palace-like building housing the Museum of Ethnography was actually first built for the Department of Justice in the 1800s as a Supreme Court, and supreme it is.  Its grand style and richly ornamented interior reflect the powerful place Hungary’s government occupied in Europe in the 1800s.  The museum was moved here in 1973 and it just seems like a perfect fit.  You’ll be wowed from the second you step into the dimly lit grand hall and entertained through the last exhibit.  Adults seem to appreciate the collects more than kids do.

Hours :  Tuesday-Sunday 10am-6pm; Closed Mondays.   Cost :  1000 HUF; 500 HUF for EU Citizens; special exhibit combo tickets are usually 200 HUF more.   Guided Tours :  Available in numerous languages and 8,000 HUF covers a group up to 25 people.   Museum Website :  ( HERE ).

Closure Notice : The museum is closed for renovations and will re-open sometime in 2020.

5. Imre Nagy Memorial :

About The Imre Nagy Memorial :  Located in the middle of the small leafy Martyrs Square ( Vértanúk Tere ) is the Imre Nagy Memorial consisting of a cozy footbridge and the former leader symbolically looking out over Parliament .  Nagy was Prime Minister of Hungary during the anti-Soviet Revolution of 1956 when many Hungarian Citizens fought to get rid of Soviet influence.  The Revolution was foiled but Nagy shared the group’s views and took action to make his Communist government neutral from both the Soviets and Stalin.  The biggest step he took was when he withdrew from the Warsaw Pact  and asked the United Nations to recognize Hungary and a neutral 3rd party.  He also took steps to open the Hungarian Government up to a multi-party system although he remained himself a Marxist.

The steps Nagy took faced a lot of hostility as the Soviets had helped liberate Hungary from the Nazis at the end of WWII and many Government officials were still loyal to the USSR.  Because of these strong loyalties, Nagy was arrested for treason in 1958, tried secretly, executed by hanging, and was buried in an unmarked grave.  Many viewed this as a message from the USSR to other Communist leaders of what would happen if they started growing away from them.  The corruption involved was obvious since the same man who had Nagy tried for treason ( János Kádár ) became the next Prime Minister.  Over the following 30 years of Communist rule, it became illegal to utter Nagy’s name as he was viewed as a martyr and symbol of freedom.  After Communism fell in 1989, Nagy was reburied and a crowd of over 200,000 people gathered in Heroes’ Square near Budapest’s City Park for his funeral.

6. Freedom Square ( Szabadság Tér ):

About Freedom Square :  Named after the freedom fighters who were executed here in the 1840s, Freedom Square is actually the former site of a military barracks.  The main highlight of the square is the  Soviet Monument  dedicated to the Soviet’s Red Army troops who liberated Hungary from the Nazis at the end of WWII.  A standing Soviet Monument is really quite rare in Budapest as most Communist statues were moved to Memento Park outside of town when Hungary became a true Democracy in 1989.  While most modern-day Hungarians seem to want the Soviet Monument removed, try to view the monument as more of a celebration for the Nazis being kicked out than as an honor for Soviets coming in.  The square also holds other monuments to freedom including a statue of Ronald Regan who was the US President the year Communism ended in Hungary.

7. The Fat Policeman Statue :

About The Fat Policeman Statue :  The iconic bronze statue of the Fat Policeman is one of many good luck statues you will see on this free Budapest walking tour.  The statue was added along Zrínyi Street in 2008 by artist Illyés András who used his own grandfather as inspiration.  The exaggerated features of the Fat Policeman, especially the huge belly, are meant to show how hearty the Hungarian foods like goulash are.  It has become a tradition to rub the gut of the Fat Policeman for good luck which keeps like belly a shiny gold color.

8. Saint Stephen’s Basilica ( Szent István Bazilika ):

About Saint Stephen’s Basilica :  The two towers and large dome of the huge, 315 foot tall Saint Stephen’s Basilica towers of the large open square around it.  This powerful church is named after Stephen, the  first King of Hungary  ( 975–1038 ), whose mummified fist is still housed in the reliquary.  His first is known locally as the Holy Right and can be seen in the back of the church mummified and holding jewels.  The display is dark and they make you pay 100 HUF to light it up which is pretty weird, but worth it.  If you are looking to see it for free you have to be in town on August 20th known as St Stephen Day when they have the hand attend services and also lead the parade in his honor.

As you can imagine with a church this big the construction, which started in 1851, didn’t go as smooth as they wanted.  The first dome collapsed 17 years after the groundbreaking and then the second architect Miklos Ybl, who also built the  Opera House , died.  It seemed like the church was doomed, but finally they got it all together 50 years after the groundbreaking.  After the stabilized Church was finally standing strong, the best painters and sculptures in Hungary came in to finish off the masterpiece.

The interior today is a great mix of light and dark, stone and wood, marble and gilding to combine into a very impressive church.  We highly suggest swinging by the treasury, twin bell towers, and Szent Jobb Chapel.  Among the two bell towers, the left tower has one of the better panoramic views of Budapest and the right tower houses a giant 9-ton church bell.  Which one you choose depends on what you want to see.

Visitor Hours :  Church is open Daily 7am-7pm; Treasury is 9am-5pm ( 10am-4pm in winter ); Szent Jobb Chapel 9am-5pm ( Sundays 1pm-5pm ); Tower daily 10am-4:30pm ( July-September until 6pm ).   Cost :  Church Free; Treasury 400 Ft; Tower 500 Ft.  Church Services :  Daily 8am, 530pm, & 6pm; Sunday Mass is at 8am, 9am,10am, Noon, 6pm, & 7pm.   Church Website :  ( HERE ).

9. Elizabeth Park ( Erzsébet Tér ):

About Elizabeth Park :  Elizabeth Park is a great park to visit any day of the week and is extra busy on the weekends.   The area is busy not just because it is a large beautiful and hip park, but also because it is a cross roads for three different Metro Lines which leads to a very eclectic crowd.  The West side of the Square is more of a laid-back standard park area with trees and fountains while the East side is definitely the bustling, young, hip area.  Adding to the hipness of the East side are a large look-like pond and multi-level terraces filled with outdoor furniture.

This area is surrounded by numerous cafes where you can grab a bit to eat or a drink.  Many locals bring their own wine in the evening and drink around the pond.  Also on the East side, there are the two popular bars/nightclubs called Gödör Klub ( website ) and Akvárium Klub ( website ).  We love both of them, but end up spending more time in Akvárium as we really like their outdoor fit pits in the Winter.  The funky band memorabilia and Volt signage in the lobby of Akvárium comes from the annual Volt Musical Festival they help promote in Western Hungary which 80,000 people go to.

Just off of the Southeast corner of the Park is the giant yellow Anker Mansion House which was built as the first apartment building in Budapest in 1907.   The two-towered building, with its pyramid roof, gets its name from the Anker Life and Pension Insurance Company which first built it.

10. Gresham Palace Four Seasons Hotel :

About Gresham Palace :  Overlooking Roosevelt Park at the foot of the famous Chain Bridge, is the architectural treat called Gresham Palace.  The Palace was built in 1906 as the grand headquarters for the foreign Gresham Life Insurance Company and they spared no expense.  The headquarters were built so fancy that tons of wealthy British aristocrats all spent time living on the upper floors.

During WWII the Soviets used Gresham Palace to house troops and after the war, the damaged building served as a rundown apartment complex.  Finally, after over 50 years of falling apart, the Four Season’s Hotel chain bought the property and quickly restored to its original grandeur.  Today the Palace serves as a great backdrop to Roosevelt square and offers great views of Castle Hill which is directly across the Danube River.  Even if you can’t afford its $400+ a night rooms, a brief stroll through the magnificent lobby will leave you in awe.

Sitting in front of Gresham Palace is a long park called  Roosevelt Square .  On the North side of the Park statue of Count István Széchenyi ( 1791-1860 ) who founded the Hungarian Academy of Sciences and also originally thought up nearby Chain Bridge. The Southside has its own statue of Ferenc Deák ( 1803-1876 ), who advanced relations between Austria and Hungary and had the nickname “Wise Man”.   Hotel Website :  ( HERE ).

11. Chain Bridge ( Széchenyi Lanchid ):

About The Chain Bridge :  The historic quarter-mile long Chain Bridge was  completed in 1849  as the first permanent bridge connecting Buda and Pest.  The bridge was needed to help Pest escape constant flooding and led to the city merging with Buda and Óbuda to form Budapest in 1873.  With  large lion statues  guarding all four corners of the Bridge, its easy to feel its power.  Great photo opportunities come not only from the statues but also from the Chain Bridge itself with the breath-taking Buda Hills & Royal Palace in the background.  The Chain Bridge is absolutely gorgeous when it is lit up at night.

If you only have a short amount of time in Budapest we suggest that your break this  free Budapest Walking Tour  off here and follow the Chain Bridge across the Danube River to follow our  Castle Hill Walking Tour .   If you have a few days in Budapest, however, continue on this tour taking your time and visit Castle Hill later.

12. The Spoon Restaurant :

About The Spoon Restaurant :  The Spoon is an amazing restaurant inside a docked boat right on the Danube River.  The setting on the water is especially beautiful at night.  Whether you are looking for a romantic dinner or just a beautiful place to get a drink we highly suggest the Spoon.  The-250 foot-long three level riverboat has two restaurants, five bars, a panoramic open terrace, convertible winter garden, and an underwater Oriental bar.  The Spoon remains docked the entire year so it’s always there and has a lot of outdoor seating plus posh inside seating.  It’s worth buying a drink or food just to be able to check The Spoon out and take some photos especially if you go down into the Red Velvet Oriental Bar on the bottom level.

Depending on your taste for the menu there is also a second really good boat restaurant right next door to The Spoon called the Vén Hajó ( website ).  After your visit, we suggest taking the crosswalk between the two boat restaurants to reach the steps that will up the opposite side of the tram tracks.  Crossing here is the easiest way to continue with the rest of the sites on the free Budapest walking otherwise you will have to go down the riverfront a long distance for the next set of steps.

Cost :  High end drinks average $6-15; Meals are $10-20.   Hours :  Daily Noon-Midnight.   Restaurant Website :  ( HERE ).

13. Royal Princess Statue ( Kis Királylány ):

About The Royal Princess Statue :  Often referred to as the Jester, the bronze Royal Princess Statue is one of the top photo opportunities in Budapest with the Danube River and Royal Palace in the background.  The artist, László Marton, modeled the famous statue after his daughter who often dressed with a paper newspaper crown to pretend to be a princess.  The original Royal Princess Statue can be seen at the Hungarian National Gallery and this larger replica was created added near the tram tracks in front of Vigado Square in 1990.

Like the Fat Policeman Statue’s belly from earlier on this free Budapest walking tour, the Princess has gained polished golden knees from visitors rubbing her for good luck.  The artist, László Marton, also has a noteworthy statue of poet Attila József sitting on the riverside steps not far from the Hungarian Parliament Building.  On a trip to Budapest,  Prince Charles  of England liked the Royal Prince Statue so much he had a replica made for his residence in London.

14. Vörösmarty Square :

About Vörösmarty Square :  As you enter the large Vörösmarty Square you will find a huge limestone statue of  writer Mihály Vörösmarty , who the Square is named after.  Vörösmarty gained his fame not just from his romanticized poems and plays, but also for his patriotic lyrics making him a national treasure.  The statue was built in 1908 on a pedestal of limestone blocks and is surrounded by tons of figures representing different classes of Hungarian society.  These figures include a farmer, students, peasants among many others.  Vörösmarty’s writings were both appealing to and made up of a very wide range of people as you can tell by the diversity of the  figures who surround him.

The Square is also home to the Vörösmarty tér Metro Stop, but it is the beautiful  Gerbeaud Café  ( website )opened in 1858 that you will remember the most.  Gerbeaud Café is a delightful pastry shop with a lavish marble and ornate interior whose white facade dominated the Square.  If pastries are not your thing, Gerbeaud also has a nice authentic pub and a great high-end restaurant that will make you feel like a Hungarian aristocrat.  Gerbeaud can hold up to 300 guests inside and also has great outdoor seating, so don’t worry about getting served if you see a crowd, there is plenty of room for everyone.  You can always get something to go and do a makeshift picnic.

Our favorite time of year to visit Vörösmarty Square is in December when you’ll be treated to a number of great outdoor stands that make up Budapest’s Christmas Fair and Market.  The Market has the perfect look and feels just like the large Christmas markets of Austria and Germany.

15. Váci Shopping Street (Váci Utca):

About Váci Utca :  The pedestrian-only Váci Street is the best shopping area in all of Budapest and stretches all the way from Vörösmarty Square to the Great Market Hall.  The architecture along the street is some of the best from the 1700s, the atmosphere is always upbeat, and there is a great mix of both affordable souvenir shops and high-end fashion boutiques.  If you wander slightly off Váci Utca, in almost any direction, you can find a great number of mom-n-pop style eateries that have great deals and even better food.

Speaking of food, notice the  Historic McDonald’s  on your right as you begin down Váci, it is a big deal. This McDonald’s was the first Western fast food restaurant built in the Communist East Block when is came here in 1988.  The people of Budapest were so excited for McDonald’s to be here that the line to get food typically ran outside the restaurant and down the road a few blocks.   McDonald’s went on to build what we feel is their fanciest restaurant in the World to the Northeast of here near the train station, which is also marked on the map above.

While the McDonald’s and the shopping on Váci Utca are special, the most unique thing is definitely the statue of the  Peeing Boy .   It is quite literally is a statue of a peeing boy and serves as a gathering spot for travelers looking to rest their feet.  As you continue down the street make sure to investigate numerous statues you come across.

16. Roman Fortress Ruins ( Contra Aquincum ):

About Contra Aquincum :  The Roman city of Aquincum ( modern Óbuda ) was founded just up the river from here on the opposite bank of the Danube in 41AD and became the capital of the state of Pannonia in 106AD.  This elevated status made Aquincum a target of rival Barbarian groups which led to the need for greater protection.  A large fortress called Contra Aquincum was built here in the early 100s AD to serve as the first line of defense for the regional capital.

Interestingly the Contra Aquincum was built on the Barbarian side of the Danube which was not fully controlled by the Romans.  The placement of the fortress on just beyond the Roman borders at the edge of the frontier made it very important.  When Roman Emperor Diocletian visited in 296AD he ordered the fortress be massively re-enforced.  It was common for Emperors to visit Budapest and many did starting with Domitian in 86AD through Valentinian I in 374AD.

After the Romans left, the Hungarians continued to use Contra Aquincum for defense until around just after the country was officially founded in 896AD.  A settlement began to grow around the former fortress which sparked the true beginning of the city of Pest .  Much of the village and the remains of the fortress were ravaged in the Mongol Invasion of 1241, but the city continued to grow.  In Medieval times a wall protected Pest and on any modern map you see a natural half circle in the road ( Károly > Múzeum > Vámház ) 5 blocks out from the river where the wall enclosed the Inner City of Pest.

Through the plexiglass viewpoints middle of Március Square, you can still see parts from the original Contra Aquincum Fortress sitting just below the pavement.  These Roman ruins used to be open air, but had to be covered in the early 2000s to protect them from vandalization.  If you are further interested in the Roman history of Budapest you can visit the ruins of the former regional capital Aquincum just North of the city with an easy 20-30 minute metro ride from the center of town.

17. Inner City Parish (Belvárosi):

About Inner City Parish :  Rebuilt numerous times over the centuries, the Inner City Parish was the heart of the neighborhood of Pest in Medieval times.  In as early as 296 this location was the watchtower for the Roman Contra-Aquincum Fortress and was then a massive military control room by 350.  When the Romans left, a small village ( Pest ) began to form around the old fortress.  Shortly after Hungary officially formed in 896 the fortress was no longer needed and the first church was built here in the 11th century by Hungary’s first King Saint Stephen ( 1000-1038 ) to honor the Virgin Mary.

The original Inner City Parish was made of stone with three naves and was said to have inspired other famous churches like the hand-carved  Ják Abbey.  This early church was where the  monk Saint Gellért was buried after he was martyred just across the river on Gellért Hill in 1046.  Saint Gellért ( Gerard of Csanád ) had been put in a barrel and rolled to his death by citizens resisting his attempts to convert them to Christianity.  The church even had to be extended in 1053 to hold all of the new relics from Saint Gellért ( who was a mentor of King Stephen ).  Some of his foot bones and vertebra can be still found at the altar Inner City Parish even though much of the original church which was destroyed by the Mongols in 1241.  There are also bones from Hungarian Princess Elizabeth ( 1207-1239 ) who was engaged in the church to Saxon count at age four.  Our favorite remnant on display from this era of the church is a marvelous fresco of the Virgin Mary sitting in a throne.

A second church was built here in the Gothic-style and was famously where a congregation of nobles  appointed Matthias Corvinus  the King of Hungary on January 23rd, 1458.  The Gothic parish survived being converted into a Mosque during Ottoman rule ( 1541-1686 ) and was turned back to a church again before burning in a fire in 1723.  The third and current Franciscan ( Catholic ) church was heavily influenced by the Austrian-Hungarian alliance as its Baroque-style looks like many of the small parishes near Salzburg and Vienna.  The beloved Hungarian composer Franz Liszt even lived and worked on the church grounds between 1858-1871.  From the ancient Roman sections, to the original Medieval cellars, and the Muslim Mihrab niche near the altar, it is very interesting to see all parts of the parish’s history incorporated into the current church.

You can learn more about the famous monk Saint Gellért on our  Gellért Hill Walking Tour . which picks up just across the Danube River from the Inner City Parish.

Entrance Cost : 1,000 HUF for Adults; 700 HUF for Children; Kids 6 & Under are Free.  Hours :  Weekdays 9am-4:30pm; limited hours in the evenings and weekends due to church services.  Website : Here .

18. University Library & Ybl Palace :

About University Library & Ybl Palace :  A series of great mosaic title roofs all right next to each other leads to one of the more icon photos opportunities in Budapest.  The blue and grey Ybl Palace was designed as an upscale apartment building in 1869 by famous Hungarian architect Miklós Ybl.  Ybl’s best-known work is the Hungarian Opera House, but his influence in the buildings of Budapest seems to pop up all over.  The bright yellow University Library houses many priceless works of literature and art including works from the days of King Matthias and Hungary’s founding.

19. University Church ( Egyetemi Templomi ):

About University Church :  Built in 1742 on the site of a Turkish Mosque, the University Church is by far the biggest and best baroque-style church in Budapest.   It is tucked tightly into an alley on Egyetem Tér but is easily viewed and photographed at the nearby Károly Garden to the Northeast. The exterior dominated by two green-cap towers, which were added in 1771 and statues of the hermits Paul and Anthony in the middle.  Can you spot the palm between two lions with a raven?  This is the traditional emblem of the Pauline Order of priests and it sits directly above the image of Madonna on a globe.  The theme of the Madonna carries inside as the interiors frescoes are full of scenes depicting the life of the Virgin.

20. Hungarian National Museum :

About The Hungarian National Museum :  Housed in a building that looks like the U.S. Supreme Court, the Hungarian National Museum has been an icon of Budapest ever since it was built in 1807.  The museums main claim to fame was when a reading on the front steps of Sándor Petőfi’s  12 Points  and famous poem  Nemzeti Dal  partially helped inspire citizens to begin the Revolution of 1848.   Today there are two statues at the museum commemorating this Revolution.  The most fascinating exhibits are the preserved art treasures, and Princes from Afar, but whatever the Exhibit of the Month happens to be is usually worth the stop in itself.

Cost :  Adults 1600 HUF; Discounts for students and families.   Hours :  Tuesday-Sunday 10am-6pm; closed Mondays.   Museum Website :  ( HERE ).

21. For Sale Pub :

About For Sale Pub :  One of the most famous pubs in Budapest because of the unique decor.  For centuries it was a custom around town for people to post their items for sale in their local pub as an early version of classified ads.  This pub carries on that tradition as every inch of the walls and ceiling are covered in paper for sale notices.  The floor even looks like an old barn-style tavern with nut shells and loose straw scattered about.

Hours :  Daily Noon-3am; can get very busy from 7-10pm which a reservation is suggested by phone.   Phone :  +36 70 599 3860

22. Grand Market Hall ( Nagycsarnok ):

About The Grand Market Hall :  Also known as Central Market Hall, this three-story-tall bustling food epicenter is grand indeed.  The basement has a large grocery area, the second floor has a lot of meat and vegetable sellers, and the second floor has a bunch of clothing knickknack sellers.  The Grand Market is the most touristy yet the most beautiful of the five major market halls in Budapest.

You can go to the strudel stall on the first floor and taste the typical Hungarian poppy-seed and cabbage strudels. You can also go to the Langos stall (fried salty dough topped by cheese, sour cream ham etc) on the second floor where you can also sample wine and spirits for a reasonable price. You will also find strings of red paprika and garlic, the famous Hungarian salami, sausage, ham and other meat product along with fresh pastry, frisbee-sized salty doughnut, cheap and delicious Hungarian wine and fruit brandies are sold.  Definitely, a must stop while in Budapest and this is the best of the five big markets in town.

Hope you enjoyed your time on the Pest Monument Walking Tour, from here you have a couple different options for where to go next. You can either take the short walk across the bridge which leads you to our  Gellért Hill Walking Tour , you can head straight north on Vaci Utca to catch up on any shops you miss, or you can head back up to Kalvin Square to jump on the Metro – the choice is yours.

Hours :  Mondays 6am-5pm; Tuesday-Friday 6am-6pm; Saturdays 6am-3pm; Closed Sundays.   Market Website :  ( HERE ).

Featured Article

Sign Up For Our Newsletter For Free Travel Tips

Email Address *

Disclaimer: Information on this page and in our walking tours were deemed accurate when published, however, details such as opening hours, rates, transportation, visa requirements, and safety can change without notice. Please check with any destinations directly before traveling.

• Smaller Text Larger Text
• Home / 
• Blog: Cameron's Travels

Destination: Budapest

Europe’s best neighborhoods: where should i stay in ___.

You’re heading to Europe. You’ve chosen your destinations. And now you’re starting to daydream about your chance to be a temporary Londoner, a temporary Parisian, or a temporary Roman. The next question: Where should you stay?

As the 2023 travel season winds down, early birds are already starting to make plans for 2024. Most people get serious about this in January or so. But if you want to get a jump on the “competition” — and have your pick of places to stay — it’s smart to get started now. (And it’s a fun, constructive way to distract yourself as the days get shorter and colder.)

I have some friends who are dong just that: dreaming of a trip with their two teenagers next June in Rome and Athens. They asked me where I’d suggest staying in those great cities. And I thought to myself: That’s an excellent question! But first, I need a little more information: What kind of neighborhood are you looking for?

Inspired by that question, I’ve brainstormed my suggested home-base neighborhoods for 10 of Europe’s most popular cities. This intel is hard-earned, from years of scouring these cities for accommodations to recommend in our Rick Steves guidebooks .

Those lists are below. F or each city, I’ve broken my choices down into three categories:

Central and Touristy. This is where you’d stay to have the top sightseeing right outside your door. However, that also means these neighborhoods are touristy, often a bit tacky, very expensive, crowded, and not particularly “authentic” or “local-feeling.” But sometimes having everything close at hand is worth making those sacrifices, especially on a quick, targeted trip.

Hip and Foodie. Every city worth its salt has an edgy, “emerging” restaurant and nightlife zone. These can be either central or more remote; either way, they’re typically less polished and more characteristic, and they tend to skew more youthful. If you’re in town primarily to check out all the “destination” foodie restaurants, rather than to sightsee until you drop, and if you’d like to settle in to the local version of Williamsburg, Los Feliz, or Wicker Park…then these neighborhoods are for you. (If you don’t know what those names mean, then these neighborhoods are probably not for you.)

Charming and Residential. If you don’t mind commuting to the main sightseeing and trendiest eateries, it can be worthwhile to stay a little farther from the city center. More sedate and charming than the central districts, these neighborhoods feel “older-local” as opposed to “younger-local.” Because they’re less central and less touristy, lodgings are often more affordable (though certain high-end suburbs can be surprisingly pricey). If the “Hip and Foodie” places are for hipsters, then the “Charming and Residential” places are for yuppies and retirees. Just be prepared for a longish metro, bus, or tram ride to achieve most of your bucket list.

Use the suggestions below as a starting point when searching for accommodations — whether hotels, B&Bs, or short-term apartment rentals (like Airbnb). Many room-booking search engines allow you to enter specific neighborhoods to narrow down your options, or you can search via the map. Read reviews carefully, within these areas, to make sure the lodgings you’re considering match your expectations. And here’s a pro tip: Before booking, go for a little “virtual stroll” of the surrounding area on Google Maps Street View to make sure it looks like a place you’d like to settle in.

Touristy/Central: Soho and Covent Garden can’t be beat for access to many of the top sights, the West End theater scene, and some of London’s best restaurants to boot.

Hip/Foodie: The East End, specifically Shoreditch and nearby, is where hipsters feel at home, with exuberant street art and many of the city’s most interesting restaurants. (Many top London restaurants began with a humble location in Shoreditch before opening a fancy one in Soho.)

Charming/Residential: Try neighborhoods just to the west, surrounding Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens ( South Kensington, Notting Hill, Earl’s Court ); or to the north, near the British Museum ( Marylebone, Fitzrovia ). In this vast city, there are countless other choices, depending on how far out you’re willing to travel; Dulwich , to the south, and Ted Lasso’s Richmond , to the west, are each a 30-minute commuter train ride out of the center.

Touristy/Central: It’s hard to resist staying near the Eiffel Tower (ideally with a view from your window); either there, or in the Latin Quarter (near the Île de la Cité /Notre-Dame and Île St. Louis ) puts you very close to the sights…and the crowds.

Hip/Foodie: For something that’s still quite central, but more funky, consider the Marais, or some of the neighborhoods just beyond it: Try Oberkampf and Canal-St-Martin , just to the north, and the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine , just beyond Bastille to the east. The famous Montmartre is a strange combination of obnoxiously touristy and achingly bohemian…just as it was a century ago.

Charming/Residential: It’s hard to resist Rue Cler. This quintessentially Parisian, very central market street is that strange “unicorn” of neighborhoods that ticks only the best bits of both the “Touristy/Central” and “Charming/Residential” boxes. Another good option, slightly less characteristic but still handy, is Luxembourg Gardens .

Touristy/Central: It’s a thrill to stay as close to the Pantheon as possible, putting you right in the magical and romantic heart of Rome. For fewer tourists, look in the sleepier, more appealing streets that run from Piazza Navona west, toward the river and Vatican City.

Hip/Foodie: I just love the Monti district, tucked in narrow residential lanes basically across the street from the Roman Forum. Testaccio , farther out, surrounds Rome’s most engaging market hall and offers close proximity to restaurants filled with foodies who’ve done their homework.

Charming/Residential: Trastevere, which could arguably fit in any of these categories, is extremely atmospheric, slightly less touristy than the most central parts of Rome, and still within a long but very engaging walk to many of the top sights. The small, quiet zone just behind the Colosseum (to the east) feels a world apart from the touristy chaos.

Touristy/Central:  The city’s spine, Unter den Linden, has several big hotels but lacks personality. That’s why I enjoy the area around Hackescher Markt , just north of Museum Island, which has a little more character and enjoys about as convenient a location as you’ll find in this sprawling city.

Hip/Foodie: Not only the best neighborhood in Berlin, but one of my favorite hipster neighborhoods anywhere, Prenzlauer Berg has oodles of funky Berlin character, outstanding restaurants, a true neighborhood feel, and easy transportation connections around the city. For a deeper dive, consider Neuköln , Kreuzberg , or any number of other cool Kieze (neighborhoods) that Berlin specializes in.

Charming/Residential: The former West Berlin (now called City West ) was once a Time Square-like “city center” hub; now it’s a sleepy, sedate, upscale, and charming suburb with relatively easy connections to the big sights. Savignyplatz is the centerpiece of this area, and the surrounding Charlottenburg district has a similar feel.

Touristy/Central: The Plaka , tucked at the base of the Acropolis (between the Monastiraki transit hub and the busy Syntagma Square), is super-central and super-touristy.

Hip/Foodie: Just across the street from Monastiraki, Pysrri is funky, youthful, and foodie, with an appreciation for wild street art and delicious street food, and close proximity to the thriving Central Market without being too far from the central sightseeing zone.

Charming/Residential: The sleepier streets of Makrigianni and Koukaki, on the “far side” of the Acropolis (to the south), make for a comfortable and relatively mellow home base.

Touristy/Central: If you’d like to have very easy access to the sights (and to endless tulips-and-wooden-shoes souvenir shops), stay somewhere along Damrak or in the nearby streets of the Red Light District .

Hip/Foodie: The Jordaan , a short stroll along postcard canals west of the central spine, is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Europe, period. It’s an ideal combination of two categories: Both hip and residential, charming and foodie, it’s a clear winner.

Charming/Residential: If looking beyond the Jordaan, the quiet streets of Southwest Amsterdam, around Museumsplein, tick this box — though the proximity to the Rijks and Van Gogh museums can make it feel quite touristy in places.

Touristy/Central: Pest’s Town Center (District V), with the Váci Utca pedestrian drag as its spine, is as central and as touristy as you can get. I prefer the area around the Opera House, along the most interesting stretch of Andrássy Út — just a little farther out, but very well-served by public transit, chockablock with great restaurants, and very close to the Seventh District fun (see next).

Hip/Foodie: The Seventh District, which overlaps with the Jewish Quarter just across the Small Boulevard from Pest’s Town Center, is one of Europe’s most engaging hipster neighborhoods. It comes with many of the city’s best restaurants (from street food to Michelin-starred) and the fun and fascinating “ruin pub” scene.

Charming/Residential: Buda, across the river from the modern city center, is sleepier, greener, and more sedate. It takes longer to reach much of Pest…but the views across the river are worth the commute. To stay on the Pest side, consider the streets flanking Andrássy Út once you get beyond the Oktagon, in the diplomatic quarter that heads out toward City Park.

Touristy/Central: Look no farther than Temple Bar and the nearby streets close to Trinity College, on the south bank of the River Liffey. (As a light sleeper, I’ll suggest checking reviews carefully for noise complaints if sleeping anywhere near Temple Bar.)

Hip/Foodie: Earlier this year, I discovered the charming yet hip “village in the city” of Stoneybatter, tucked away beyond Smithfield Square to the northwest. While a bit farther from the center, it has some of the city’s hippest restaurants (especially for brunch) and an “I could live here” vibe.

Charming/Residential: South of St. Stephen’s Green, you encounter fewer tourists and a more local feel. I particularly enjoy the area along the southern canal belt; if you’d like a hipper stretch of this area, try to get close to happening Camden Street and the Portobello area.

Touristy/Central: There’s a good reason many tourists enjoy staying in the city center: near Plaça de Catalunya, in the Barri Gòtic, and along the Ramblas . This is Barcelona at its most vivid, touristy, crowded, chaotic, and fun.

Hip/Foodie: To escape some of the crowds of the Old City, head to El Born — an easy walk just east of the Barri Gòtic. This area, with the Picasso Museum and Santa Caterina Market, has a more bohemian feel, including great restaurants.

Charming/Residential: The carefully planned Eixample district, which surrounds the Old City on all sides, has an ritzy “uptown” vibe. This is the place to stay if you’d like to pretend you’re a Catalan urbanite for a few days. Or consider the tight, old-school Barceloneta fishermen’s quarter near the water.

Touristy/Central: For such a sprawling city, Istanbul has as surprisingly compact sightseeing core: Sultanahmet, loaded with hotels for tourists who want proximity to the great sights; just downhill, Sirkeci is similar.

Hip/Foodie: Kadıköy, across the Bosphorus on the Asian side, is both hip and residential. Back on the European side, consider Beşiktaş,  along the Golden Horn below the New District.

Charming/Residential: The New District, across the Golden Horn from the old city center, is still quite urban and intense in places. But you’ll also find some pleasant back streets where you can settle in to a local neighborhood.

So…what did I miss? Any favorites to add? I’d love to hear your suggestions in the Comments.

I’ve gotten to know all these great European cities through updating our Rick Steves guidebooks — where you’ll find out a lot more about all of these places, including extensive lists of our handpicked hotels and B&Bs in each area.

On Arrival: The First, and Worst, Few Hours of Any Trip

“I’m getting too old for this.”

This is what I think to myself, without fail, upon first arriving in Europe…stepping bleary-eyed off that 10-hour, marathon, overnight flight at Amsterdam Schiphol, or Paris CDG, or London Heathrow.

I’m on the downhill side of my forties — admittedly, not what most people would consider “too old.” But even on my very first trip to Europe, as a bright-eyed college kid, I felt positively ancient on arrival. International air travel is a highly specific constellation of frustrations, maneuvers, and indignities that sap the enthusiasm of anyone, old or young.

There aren’t many hard-and-fast rules of international travel. But one of them is this: The absolute worst few hours of any trip invariably take place on your day of arrival. This period of fitful adjustment starts around the time your plane begins its descent toward Europe: Peering out the window and through the clouds at tidy green farms hemmed in by canals, you wrap up your overnight marathon of watching movies that were too bad to see in the theater, and you begin assembling your personal items to deplane in a new continent.

On arrival, you’re treated to a cramped little bus journey across the tarmac, from the plane to the gate. If you make it onto the bus quickly, you may actually find somewhere to sit down…then spend that jostling ride with strangers’ butts and elbows and neglected shoulder bags slapping your face. If you get on late, you stand up — awkwardly unbalanced as you strain against your overstuffed carry-on — then teeter to and fro, desperately hanging on to the slimy metal bar or the little dangling handle that’s always juuuust out of comfortable reach. Either way, hold on tight as the bus driver careens around the uncongested airport runways as if he’s trying to catch every yellow light in downtown Palermo.

Reaching passport control (Ah, yes: passport check between flights! Why does this always catch me by surprise?), I gauge how long the line is, and how long I have until my connecting flight, and do a little arithmetic to determine my optimal degree of panic. Thankfully, on this connection, I’ve got just enough time to keep things below “abject” levels.

The long row of about a dozen glass booths, like giant aquariums, could be churning through this line. But nearly all of them are empty. The two that are staffed process new arrivals at a rate far, far slower than the flow of anxious travelers to the back of the line.

Several flights’ worth of passengers stack up behind me. I overhear people pleading that their flight leaves in 30 minutes…20 minutes… 10 minutes, for the sake of all that’s holy! To their credit, the agents managing the passport line — who represent an extraordinarily thin line between this fast-growing scrum of antsy travelers, and utter anarchy — survey each case in turn and make reasonable exceptions. At one point, there are enough close-cutters that they create a second line just for them; a few minutes later, as that “line” swells into an unruly mosh pit, they mold it into two discrete lines, each terminating at a passport agent.

Those of us who have somewhere between 30 minutes and 10 hours before our connecting flight can only watch the chaos unfold as we wait…and wait…and wait…and wait. The extroverts in line corner the introverts for some idle, exhausted small talk. Finally, two more passport-control agents appear from deep inside the bowels of the airport — having completed their lunch break about a half-hour after their presence here would have been tremendously useful. At this point, the mid-day rush is well underway, the close-cutters are visibly melting down, and the line, at long last, starts to move.

After a mercifully brief grilling, I’m admitted into a sprawling zone of duty-free shops, tulip-bulb stores, bookshops, vendors selling electronic gadgets it’s hard to imagine anyone buying (much less using), fancy restaurants perched in glass boxes high above a marbled plaza, escalators angling off every which way like an M.C. Escher etching, globetrotters with big black circles under their eyes staggering through the vast halls while barely avoiding careening into one another, those hyperventilating close-cutters sprinting to make an impossible connection, little golf carts weaving between the disoriented throngs, and, of course, a McDonalds and a Starbucks.

Somewhere in there, I find a bathroom. The American in me wishes for those sprawling 20-holers that you find in big airports in the USA, where two full soccer squads could relieve themselves without a wait. But many European airports, for the sake of efficiency or sadism (or perhaps both), prefer cramped little 3- or 4-holers, where an awkward queue forms in the tiny no-man’s land between the stall doors and the sinks. And, of course, there’s nowhere sanitary to set down your bag — making you wish you’d checked it, after all.

Following the maze of directional signs, I find my connecting gate. Serendipitously, both my arriving flight and my onward flight are exactly 25 minutes late. That gives me about 10 minutes to zone out — or did I actually fall briefly dead asleep? — on an uncomfortable chair between people conducting extremely loud cell phone conversations in Hungarian.

I never cease to be fascinated by the liminal space of an international airport. Humanity from all corners of Europe — and the globe— mix and mingle in its cavernous concourses. Then, you cross the threshold into a gate area…and suddenly, the internationality of the place you just left is diluted with a powerful slug of the place you’re about to go to.

The gate for my flight to Budapest is a microcosm of Budapest itself: Perhaps two-thirds of the people around me look, talk, dress, and smell like Hungarians. This is the first moment of this trip where I’m recognizably “in” Hungary — yet still hundreds of miles away. And if I backtrack 50 paces into the concourse, the concentration of Hungarians instantly plummets to numbers more in line with the Hungarians-to-humanity ratio…which is to say, I could walk all the way back to my first gate and count on one hand the number of Magyars I encounter. They’re all tidily sequestered in this one tiny sub-space of a sprawling mega-space.

(This phenomenon was particularly apparent during the late stages of COVID. If you walked along the concourses of SeaTac Airport, the number of passengers who wore masks at each gate was directly proportional to the blueness of the state they were flying to.)

This works in reverse, too: Leaving your plane, a sealed capsule representing humanity in the place you just left, you can actually feel that ratio diffuse as your fellow passengers disperse into the terminal. If you’re departing a place you love, this is a sad sensation, like graduating from high school and watching your buddies head off to colleges in distant cities; if you’re departing a place you’ve had enough of, it’s more pleasurable, like you’re finally moving on.

Then again, maybe I’m just hallucinating. Am I at my 20th, 21st hour since I last slept?

After another tortuous bus trip across the tarmac, I’m seated on my connecting flight. The guy next to me — who wears aviator glasses and a stencil of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper tattooed on his forearm, and, based on how he puzzles over the operation of his seat belt, may never have been on an airplane before — is all elbows. But by this time, I’m exhausted enough to nod off between snippets of the mindless Netflix entertainment I’ve downloaded. At one point, they hand me an individually shrink-wrapped cheese sandwich with a robin’s-egg-blue sticker that says “New — Improved Recipe,” and I snicker to myself about how much the recipe for a cheese sandwich can actually be “improved.” But then I take a bite. And it’s quite possibly the most delicious thing I have eaten in my life. Or at the very least, since I got on the plane in Seattle.

Finally, I’ve reached my destination! Following the little Arrivals stickers on the floor like a treasure map, through yet another mazelike airport — mysteriously busy for a random Tuesday afternoon at 4 p.m. — I find my way to the baggage claim, then step out into that brackish space where the hermetically sealed, authorized-secure world of The Airport meets unwashed reality.

A dozen people stand outside that door, clutching little signs with the names of strangers. At this moment, I wish nothing more than for my name to be scrawled on one of those placards. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the foresight to make that particular arrangement…so I’m on my own.

Worse, I’m updating a guidebook. That means that the material I enjoy updating the least — the logistics of getting from the airport into town — is also the material that I have to reckon with at the moment I’m more exhausted and less patient than at any other point in my weeks-long journey. I head out to the curb to lay eyes on the public bus stop, and to tinker around with the ticket machine to make sure it has English instructions and takes credit cards (of course it does, because, you know, it’s 2023). And I quiz a couple of taxi drivers about how much it costs to ride into town — an exercise that they seem to enjoy even less than I do, if that’s possible…but then, we’re all just pawns in the same big game that nobody really controls.

I stumble through my chores and decide on the shared minibus transfer to my hotel…then instantly regret it, when I realize that means I’ll have to wait for another 15 minutes until a quorum of fellow passengers arrives, enough to merit the trip. (Why didn’t I just pay €10 more for a direct taxi? These are the bewildering decisions one makes at the culmination of a long journey, and the reason why you’re more prone to epically stupid mistakes upon arrival than at any other point in the trip not involving unhealthy volumes of alcohol. One time, at the Puerto Vallarta airport, I withdrew some pesos and left my debit card inserted in the ATM — with the PIN entered! — before heading to my lodgings.)

No matter. I’m finally back in Hungary — many years delayed, thanks to COVID — and excited to get reacquainted with one of my favorite cities. The rush-hour drive into town is a blur; unexpected detours are made en route to discharge my fellow passengers; and then, just when I’m wondering if maybe I died on the flight and have slipped into some sort of purgatory, my driver turns up an anonymous-feeling side street and — hey presto! — we’re in front of my hotel

“Köszönöm szépen,” I gargle, thanking the driver with a phrase that becomes muscle memory after a day or two in Hungary, but in this moment sounds mindbendingly foreign. Stepping into my little hotel room, I set down my bags and let out an epic fart that lasts for ninety full seconds…one that I’ve been holding in since somewhere over Nunavut.

After a few minutes lying on the bed, at precisely the instant that I’m about to fall asleep, I rally for one more little push. The sun low in the sky, and I’ll be asleep within a couple of hours. But first…

Stepping out of my hotel, I congratulate myself for having chosen this place — tucked around the side of Hungary’s achingly beautiful Opera House. I circle around to the front of the ludicrously opulent building. Wispy clouds float overhead, illuminated by the setting sun, creating an impossibly romantic European scene. And I think: I’m in one of the greatest, grandest cities in Europe — and I get to spend the next week here. Lucky me!

That’s when it hits me — that “Hey, I’m in Europe!” moment that I wait for at the start of each trip. It’s that moment when you realize all that you’ve just endured has been worth it.

In fact, let’s grab the reins here: You haven’t “endured” anything at all…you’ve been mildly uncomfortable for a few hours, maybe a little too tired. But isn’t that worth it, for the incredible privilege of living at a moment in history when you can seal yourself into a little metal tube, watch a few movies, eat some mediocre food, doze off if you can…and step off in an entirely different world?

And this is also the moment that you realize: You are not, in fact, getting too old for this.

Maybe someday.

 But not yet.

I’ll be weathering this misery again soon, as I hit the road in June and July to update  our bestselling Ireland guidebook and film some new TV shows in Iceland. If you’d like to come along on my summer travels, follow me on Facebook  and  on Instagram .

And if you’d enjoy this kind of travel writing, be sure to check out my travel memoir, The Temporary European .

10 European Discoveries for 2021

On the horizon, there is light. The sun hasn’t risen yet, but it’s coming. Although it has never been more important (or harder) to continue staying home, limiting contact with others, wearing masks, and so on, it’s beginning to feel like 2021 may bring the “return to normal” — and the return to travel — that we all crave. It’s too early to begin planning trips, but it’s never too early to dream. So…where to?

The last several years, my New Year tradition has been to assemble a list of 10 European Discoveries. As we reach the end of a year of hardship, and face a new year of further uncertainty, I almost bailed on this idea. But we will return to Europe. It’s just a question of when. So I’ll keep with tradition — but with a new spin.

I believe that in the post-pandemic world, travelers will look for something different. Before COVID-19, we had gotten so busy, and so stressed by the crowds, that we forgot to slow down and hear the church bells — to savor those beautiful everyday moments of European life. (If I have a post-pandemic resolution, it’s to not make this mistake again.) Having renewed our appreciation for the incredible privilege of being able to go anywhere we want, we’ll seek opportunities to settle in, slow down, and be fully present in Europe. We’ll choose places just outside the mainstream, ones that reward patience and contemplation.

And that’s the theme of my 2021 European Discoveries: 10 places where you might want to settle in for a week, or a few, and really get to know a fascinating corner of our planet. I haven’t set foot in Europe in well over a year — with, I assume, several more months yet to go. It has afforded me ample opportunity to reflect on my 20-plus years of exploring Europe. And looking back on all of it, these are the places the burn brightest in my mind.

Where are you hoping to slow down and savor our world in 2021?

Soča Valley, Slovenia

I can think of few places I’ve missed more in 2020 than Slovenia. And for me, the most beautiful place in this incredibly beautiful country is the Soča Valley, where a turquoise river cuts a gorge deep into soaring alpine cliffs, just a few miles from the borders with Austria and Italy. Historians know the Soča Valley for its fierce mountaintop battles during World War I (this is where Ernest Hemingway was wounded while driving an ambulance). And contemporary travelers know it as an adventure-sports capital (whitewater rafting, canyoning, paragliding) and home to the restaurant of Ana Roš , the world’s best female chef . You can get a taste of the Soča Valley on a very busy one-day side-trip from Lake Bled or Ljubljana. But why not settle in for several days? Sleep at a tourist farm on a high-mountain pasture, wake up each day to the sun peeking over snowcapped mountains, and spend your breakfast (of farm-fresh eggs) deciding which breathtaking hike or scenic drive to do today.

The Markets of Provence

In September of 2019, my wife and I had a full week to unwind anywhere in Europe. Already exhausted from a packed and fast-paced year of travel, we opted for a quiet weeklong break in the South of France. Why? We wanted to savor the delightful market days (jours de marché) that hop from place to place around the bucolic Provençal countryside. In one week, we sampled seven different markets, each with its own personality . Yes, Provence is packed with other attractions: great sights and wine-tastings and gourmet meals and scenic hikes and hot-air balloon rides. But the markets are precisely the type of sensory super-experience we’re all desperate for after a 2020 spent very close to home. After living through a time when going to the corner grocery store feels like high adventure, imagine the thrill of strolling a lively town square, generously shaded by plane trees, as you choose a little wheel of cheese for your picnic from a mound of fragrant options, browse for just the right produce for a home-cooked Provençal feast, and bite into a strawberry that truly, intensely tastes like strawberry .

I wrote the book on Budapest… literally . And yet, even after 20-some visits, I still can’t get enough of this grand city on the Danube. With each weeklong visit to update my guidebook, the list of things I’d still like to see and do gets longer, not shorter. The melting pot and de facto capital of Central Europe, Budapest’s unique urban culture mixes a respect for tradition with a cosmopolitan openness to creativity and innovation. It wins my vote for the hands-down best restaurant and nightlife scene in Europe. And yet it also has a stately elegance, with ornate turn-of-the-century buildings, inviting tree-lined plazas, and wooded hills ideal for nature hikes. (And don’t get me started on the thermal baths .) Last March, I had already booked my tickets for yet another visit to Budapest, and I couldn’t wait. That trip, of course, never happened. And by the time I finally get back there, the anticipation will be unbearable. I never know precisely what I’ll see, do, and learn in Budapest. But I know it’ll create lasting memories.

Iceland’s Ring Road

When we produced our Rick Steves Iceland guidebook , we included a “how to” chapter on Europe’s ultimate road trip: driving 800 miles on Highway 1 around the perimeter of Iceland, connecting astonishing scenery, geothermal hotspots, glaciers and icebergs, charming fjordside settlements, and warm and wonderful Icelanders. We covered the Ring Road generously in our book, even though we figured very few people would devote the full week required to do this trip justice. But maybe we were wrong. The pandemic has made National Lampoon’s Vacation -style road trips all the rage again. There’s never been a better time to rack up some serious miles through cinematic landscapes and have an honest-to-goodness adventure. And Iceland is made to order for “social distancing” as we tiptoe into the post-pandemic future. My Ring Road post covers the basics; if the photos and places intrigue you, forget about that “48-hour Icelandic layover” you’ve been contemplating…go all-in on the full Ring Road.

North Wales

Recently I had the joyful experience of driving around North Wales (roughly the triangle formed by Conwy, Caernarfon, and Ruthin) for several days to update our Rick Steves Great Britain guidebook . I adore Europe’s plucky, off-the-beaten-path cultural eddies, and North Wales tops the list. Along with offering a fascinating crash course in Welsh culture and language, this region is studded with towering stone castles that make you feel like a kid again, a rugged landscape of craggy mountains and slate rooftops, and cheery red dragons laughing down from every flagpole. And it’s compact, making it easy to see a lot from any one of a number of charming home bases. While less known than the Scottish Highlands or Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula, North Wales is every bit as fun, scenic, and culturally rich.

Maramureș, Romania

Years ago, my Dad and I went on a road trip through Romania, seeking traditional culture. When we came to Maramureș — ten long, potholed hours of driving north of Bucharest — we felt like anthropologists stumbling upon a place that time forgot. The rolling green hillsides are dotted with giant, tipsy haystacks. Rustic villages with mud roads — and more horse carts than cars — are lined with elaborate wooden churches and ceremonial gateways. Shepherds living in split-wood shacks make cheese like medieval peasants . And riverside settlements bustle with industry dating back to biblical times, from carpet-washers to fulling mills to to weaving looms to moonshine stills. This is not an “open-air folk museum” — it’s the real deal, Europe’s Amish Country. As our world changes at a dizzying pace — which only accelerated in 2020 — there’s no guarantee that Maramureș traditions will survive for much longer. ( Teo Ivanciuc , an excellent local guide who helped us film our TV segment in Maramures , would love to show you around.)

Camino de Santiago, Spain

In the Middle Ages, pilgrims walked from all over Europe to venerate the bones of St. James in Santiago de Compostela, at the northwest corner of Iberia. This route — the Camino de Santiago — was largely forgotten over the centuries, only to be rediscovered in our own lifetime by travelers seeking an escape from modern life. After a year of deep soul-searching, there’s nothing like a four-week hike to clear the mind, synthesize all we’ve learned, and contemplate where to go from here. Begin in the green Pyrenees foothills of Basque Country, then walk across the arid plains of northern Spain, through villages and cities and across stone bridges from Roman times, before finally passing trough the wilds of lush, green, and rocky Galícia — all along the way, sleeping in rustic pilgrims’ hostels and following scallop shells through the wilderness. I’ve hiked bits of the Camino here and there (and I drove the entire route, end to end, to write a “how to” chapter in our Rick Steves Spain guidebook ). But I’ve never been so tempted to do the full Camino the old-fashioned way.

Lofoten Islands, Norway

All my life, I’d seen this magical place in postcards and coffee-table books: soulful fjords with cut-glass mountains rising high above serene, deep waters, speckled with red cottages and almost no people. My wife and I decided we simply had to see this scene for ourselves. And when we finally made it to the Lofoten Islands — above the Arctic Circle and chilly even in August — we found it even more stunning than the photos. Getting to the Lofoten requires some effort (from Oslo, fly due north for an hour and a half), so you might as well settle in. The rugged Norwegians who’ve carved out a hardy life up here, hanging cod to dry on rickety wooden frames, are adept at introducing visitors to traditional lifestyles. Rent a rorbu (cheery cottage perched on stilts over the fjord) and spend a few days just tooling around, from the “capital city” village of Svolvær to the end-of-the-road cod-fishing settlement called Å. We home-based in Reine, perched on a flat rock in the middle of a fjord with the most stunning views in all of the Lofoten, and from there we ventured out to see everything the archipelago has to offer.

New Zealand

Sure, it’s not “European” in geographical terms. But for anyone who loves Europe, New Zealand feels strikingly familiar…yet excitingly different. (One afternoon, you’re punting the River Avon in Christchurch, as if you were in an English country garden; the next day, you’re swimming with dolphins at Kaikoura.) After years of hearing from our well-traveled friends about this seemingly too-good-to-be-true land, my wife and I finally spent a few weeks here in early 2019. And we fell instantly, hopelessly in love. Yes, the scenery is gobsmacking, and Lord of the Rings fans are in heaven. But New Zealand is so much more: a melding of Europe and Polynesia set amidst an entertaining landscape, where majestic glaciers rise high above steamy groves of ferns and palm trees. We loved sampling the local wine, craft beer, and third-wave coffee culture; learning about the indigenous Māori culture; and getting to know the wonderful Kiwis, who somehow manage to be well-organized and ceaselessly competent while remaining low-key and easygoing. Even before we came home, we’d already started Googling “How do I emigrate to New Zealand?” Now that the Kiwis (under the steady and compassionate leadership of Jacinda Ardern) have managed the pandemic better than anyone, this little island nation is sure to be flooded soon with more than its share of tourists…and transplants. Why not finally get down there soon,  ahead of the crowds? As soon as they open up to outsiders, New Zealand is at the top of our list of post-pandemic dreams.

Agriturismo Cretaiole , Tuscany

For years I’ve been singing the praises of a very special place to stay in the most beautiful corner of Tuscany. On a wooded ridge just outside Pienza, city mouse Isabella married country mouse Carlo and, together, they converted a traditional Tuscan farm into the best possible expression of an agriturismo — where visitors experience rural Italian culture and cuisine with modern comforts. With each visit, this place impresses me even more — and especially the vivid, perfectly orchestrated Tuscan experiences that Isabella creates for her guests: truffle hunts, pasta-rolling parties, olive oil appreciation classes, wine tastings, deeply meaningful nature hikes, and on and on. When I close my eyes and picture the one place I’d love to get back to as soon as I can, it’s spending a week — or more — at Cretaiole .

On my most recent visit to Tuscany, a few months before COVID-19 hit, Isabella showed me around her gorgeous new boutique hotel (La Moscadella) , offering a similar Tuscan cultural experience with more luxury. But now that fine hotel, and the original farmhouse, sit mostly empty — one more tragedy in this year full of them. Whether it’s Cretaiole or some other perfect place you’ve discovered in your travels, small businesses are hurting right now. If you have the means to travel, as soon as it’s safe, consider booking a return visit. Helping to jump-start these businesses is the least we can do, considering all of the joy people like Isabella and Carlo have brought to our lives over the years.

I’m hoping that 2021 brings good fortune and a return to what we love, both for us travelers and for the people we meet on the road. Like all things, this too shall pass. And a year from now, if all goes well, we’ll be comparing notes about a whole new slew of discoveries for a new age of travel.

Europe’s 10 Best Markets

What traveler doesn’t love a great European market? There are few better windows into local life than rubbing shoulders with shoppers, browsing stands piled high with colorful produce, nibbling on street munchies, and being fully immersed in the sights, sounds, and smells of the local community.

Over half a lifetime of traveling around Europe, I’ve been collecting my favorite market experiences for travelers — where you can glean some insights into local culture and cuisine, and browse for a good, local, quality meal. This is a mix of old-school covered markets, trendier food halls, and sprawling, open-air markets that take over an entire neighborhood or town. I’ve heavily skewed my suggestions to foodie options, where you’ll find dishes that are creative and interesting (rather than just fill-the-tank), while still being affordable. Happy browsing!

10. Mercado de San Miguel , Madrid, Spain

Just steps from the grand Plaza Mayor, in the heart of Spain’s capital, sits this 1915 erector-set market hall. Fully remodeled in 2009, today it’s a bustling showcase of edible Spain. Squeezing between the crowds, you’ll find only the best jamón ibérico (air-cured ham), Manchego and other artisanal Spanish cheeses, powerfully piquant skewered pickles and olives ( banderillas) , delectable pastries, little skillets of paella, tinned fish and seafood, brochetas (meat or seafood skewers) grilled to order, smoked salmon, sweet vermouths from around Spain, croquetas with various fillings, Mexican dishes from a Michelin-star chef, and robust Rioja wines. It’s a culinary tour of Spain, under one roof.

9. Östermalms Saluhall , Stockholm, Sweden

A classic. Anchoring Stockholm’s posh Östermalm neighborhood, this market hall is simply elegant. Handsome, hand-carved wooden stalls display just-so piles of produce, stacked as if posing for a still-life. The wares here feel…curated . Composed. With Scandinavian precision. There aren’t many bargains in this pricey city, but the Östermalms Saluhall is fun to browse for a high-end picnic, or to settle into a market eatery for a quality deli plate, a delicately composed salad, a sticky Scandinavian sweet roll, a splurgy seafood dish, a gourmet smørrebrød (open-face sandwich), a delectable handmade praline, or a selection of Lebanese small plates. Note: The food hall is undergoing a makeover through 2020; in the meantime, the vendors have set up temporary digs nearby.

8. Markthalle Neun , Berlin, Germany

Berlin’s Kreuzberg district is home to its most cutting-edge, engaging culinary scene — and Markhalle Neun is its flagship. Tucked in a workaday neighborhood away from the tourist sights, it fills a beautifully restored 19th-century hall with greengrocers, cheesemongers, butchers, fishmongers, florists, and bakers, all with an appropriately Berlin-hipster vibe. Meanwhile, food stands sell Berlin classics like Buletten (meatballs), Stolle (open-faced sandwiches), Brezel (big doughy pretzels), and Currywurst —  but also Italian pastas, French crêpes, Turkish deli meats, Spanish tapas, and even BBQ from the USA. Markhalle Neun scores bonus points for its many special events (listed at www.markthalleneun.de ), including its Saturday farmers market and its “Street Food Thursday” — a beloved institution for Berliners seeking a trendy yet affordable dinner.

7.  Mercato Centrale , Florence, Italy

For years, I’d peek tentatively inside this cavernous market hall in the center of Florence, which felt dark and foreboding. With tattered stalls and piles of garbage out front, it felt like it hadn’t changed since the days of Vittorio Emanuele II. Then, in 2014, they converted the top floor into a high-end food circus. Just walk past the still-grubby produce stalls on the main floor, and hike up the stairs to a world of Italian taste treats: hand-rolled pastas, prizewinning prosciutto, massive steaks cooked so rare they still moo, melt-in-your-mouth panini , gourmet burgers made from Tuscany’s prized Chianina beef, rotisserie chicken, big juicy wads of mozzarella di bufala, handheld flatbread sandwiches called trapizzini , big slabs of rustic pizza, tender stewed beef cheeks, truffle-infused oils and pâtés, the rustic Tuscan bread soup called ribollita , deep-fried tasties,   cannoli and other Sicilian sugar bombs, and high-end tripe sandwiches (a Florentine classic!). Travelers smart enough to escape the tourist-gouging restaurants on the main drag retreat to this upper level — like pigeons in the rafters — to take a break from intense Renaissance sightseeing with pretty much any Italian taste treat they can imagine. Tuscany is home to many foodie finds — but this is one of the best.

6. Belvarosi Piac , Budapest, Hungary

In Budapest, tourists flock to the Great Market Hall, an elegant palace of produce built around the turn of the 20th century. And you really do have to see the Great Market Hall. But don’t eat there — the “local”-seeming food counters upstairs specialize in ripping off naive tourists. Instead, head to a different, smaller, and far more authentic neighborhood market hall, also right in the city center (a couple of minutes’ walk from the Parliament): the Belvarosi Piac on Hold Street. In an atmospheric Industrial Age space that feels like the Great Market Hall’s little sibling, producers occupy the ground floor, while the upstairs is ringed by tempting high end-yet-affordable food stands: massive schnitzels at Buja Diszno(k), gourmet sausage at Lakatos Műhely, Russian grub at Moszkvatér (named for the since-rechristened “Moscow Square”), gourmet burgers at Kandalló, Thai-style khao man gai (poached chicken in garlicky sauce), and updated Hungarian classics at A Séf Utcaja. Anchoring the space, down on the main floor, is Stand 25 Bisztró . Here, celebrity chefs Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll artfully fuse Hungarian classics with international influences (or is it the other way around?). While not cheap by market hall standards, Stand 25 a bargain for a Michelin-caliber lunch in a memorable setting (lunch only, plus dinner Friday and Saturday, book ahead).

5. Ballarò Market, Palermo

The Sicilian capital has some of the best, most vivid street markets in all of Europe. And the granddaddy of them all is Ballarò — seedy, chaotic, bewildering, and invigorating. Come here to jostle with Sicilians who verbally arm-wrestle for the best deals on the best ingredients. The vendors — continuing a tradition that supposedly dates back to Arab rule — warble their sales pitches with an otherworldly cadence, demanding the attention of passersby. Giant slabs of pink tuna perch on marble counters, like cadavers ready to be dissected. Produce stands overflow with vivid-purple eggplants, long, skinny Sicilian zucchini, and tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes. Best of all, scattered throughout this multi-block span of barely controlled chaos are a wide variety of tempting street food stands, selling greasy napkins topped with dirt-cheap taste treats for every level of adventurous eaters — from arancine (deep-fried rice balls) and sfincioni (“Sicilian pizza”) to pani ca’ meusa (spleen sandwich) and polpo bollito (tiny boiled octopus, eaten whole). (For a complete rundown, check out my post on Palermo’s street food .) Go ahead, dive in — this is what real travelers live for.

4. Mathallen , Oslo, Norway

I love Oslo . But I’ve rarely found a memorable meal tucked among the dreary, blocky downtown core along Karl Johans Gate. However, just north of downtown runs the Akers River Valley, where the city has redeveloped a former wasteland of red-brick factories and warehouses into a lively people zone. Its centerpiece is Mathallen (“Food Hall”), filling the scavenged brick skeleton of a 19th-century factory. Norwegians recognize the limitations of their cuisine. And so, in addition to stands selling fresh, whole-grain bread (at Smelt Ostesmørbrød) sweet and savory pies (at Mildrids Kjøkken), and farm-fresh geitost cheese (at Ost & Sånt), you can nibble tapas, pastas, sushi, tacos and tequila, pizza, Asian street food,  gourmet ice cream, and much more. Ringing the outside of the market are a variety of industrial-mod, higher-end eateries. I skipped the fried chicken and “global tapas,” and went a bit more traditional at Vulkanfisk , serving up affordable-for-Oslo, elegantly presented, fresh seafood (the garlic-sautéed scampi were a flavor bomb). Anytime I’m in Oslo at mealtime, I come up with an excuse to head up the Akers River to Mathallen.

3. Maltby Street Market Rope Walk , London

One summer, my wife and I rented an apartment in London for a week and checked out a different market each day. And at the end of the trip, the Maltby Street Rope Walk emerged as our favorite (every Saturday and Sunday). Tucked along a vintage brick railroad trestle, far from any tourist attractions (roughly across the Thames from the Tower of London), it’s an explosion of foodie energy. Beyond the hole-in-the-wall eateries, wine bars, taprooms, and Mozambique-style burger bars squeezed into the arches under the train tracks, the weekend market adds a world of pop-up food stands: grilled sandwiches oozing with tangy English cheese; little slices of rye bread mounted with melt-in-your-mouth Scottish salmon; slabs of grass-fed, dry-aged, rare-grilled hanger steaks; wild variations on Scotch eggs; Middle Eastern flatbreads with savory toppings; German-style sausages; gyoza steamed in wicker baskets; and a mouthwatering array of gooey brownies. For a more traditional “market hall,” it’s hard to beat London’s famous Borough Market. The funky Camden Market sprawls through a yellow-brick wonderland of old industrial buildings. The Portobello Road Market charms Notting Hill fans. And the Broadway Market feels like ground zero for East London’s hipster baby boom. But if I had to pick just one market that incapsulates cutting-edge London…it’s Rope Walk.

2. Mercado da Ribeira /Time Out Market, Lisbon, Portugal

My favorite European market hall has a split personality. One-half of the market is as classic as they come: traditional, rough-and-tumble vendors selling fragrant herbs, plump produce, and an aquarium’s worth of fish. It’s ragtag, ramshackle, and trapped in the 1950s, with rickety wooden stalls, puddles pooling on cracked tile floors, petticoat-clad grannies selling rough bunches of herbs, and Old World scales with dials that spin imprecisely as if digital were never invented. On its own, this market hall is endearing enough to earn an “honorable mention” on this list. But from there, you can step through a door into La Ribera’s other half: a sleek, futuristic, top-of-the-line, Time Out-themed culinary wonderland (opened in 2014). The two dozen eateries here include stands operated by five marquee, Michelin-rated Portuguese celebrity chefs selling affordably price tastes of their favorite dishes. You’ll also find smaller stands bursting with a variety of local and international meals: the beloved Portuguese steak sandwich called prego , croquetes with fillings both traditional and creative, bacalhau (rehydrated salt-dried cod), fresh-baked pasteis de nata and other pastries, Japanese-fusion dishes highlighting the long-forgotten influence of early Portuguese traders, traditional cheeses and charcuterie, catch-of-the-day, quality steaks, gourmet burgers, artful sushi, and crispy pizzas. Rounding out the scene are a well-stocked wine shop, a place to stock up on conserves (tinned fish with colorful wrappers), and a branch of A Vida Portugesa (a classy vendor of Portuguese-themed products, gifts, and keepsakes that tempt even non-shoppers).  Whether for a meal or a one-stop-shop to stock up on all things Portuguese, Mercado da Ribeira is a winner.

1.  Market Day , Sarlat, France

Sarlat’s street market is hard to top. It’s the refined yin to Palermo’s gritty yang. Twice weekly — on Wednesday mornings, and all day Saturdays — the pristine, lemony-sandstone streets of one of France’s finest towns become a big outdoor shopping mall. Locals pour in from the countryside to browse the stalls, reconnect with their favorite vendors, and bump into old friends. You’ll find baked goods, fresh meat, duck-in-a-can (confit de canard), giant wheels of rustic mountain cheese, tiny pyramids of fine gourmet cheese, nuts and dried fruits, explosively flavorful olives, mammoth chunks of nougat, snail shells prefilled for escargot, fruitcake sold by weight, a rainbow of preserves, salamis and sausages of every shape and size, and whatever produce is in season. When the noon bell tolls, the vendors begin packing up, and the shoppers scramble for café tables that catch just the right mélange of sun and shade. This is where the second phase of the Market Day ritual kicks in: taking some time to nurse a cup of coffee with someone you haven’t seen in a while. It’s all so simple…so sophisticated…so smart. If you won’t be in Sarlat, you can enjoy similar market days all over France; every community has its own, but popular ones include Uzès (in Provence), Beaune (in Burgundy), and several in Parisian neighborhoods. But Sarlat is the one that has left me with the warmest memories of an ideal market experience.

What’s your favorite market in Europe?

R.I.P. Imre Nagy: The Death of Rational Governance in Hungary

UPDATE (April 3, 2022): I originally wrote this blog post in January of 2019, when news broke that a beloved statue of anti-communist reformer Imre Nagy had been removed, under cover of darkness, from its prominent position in Budapest. This post offers a sort of “shapshot” of the situation at that time. Flash forward over three years, and  now Hungary faces a choice: In today’s elections, they have an opportunity to remove from office the man who removed that statue from their capital. If you’re seeing news of high-stakes Hungarian elections and wondering what all the fuss is about, I hope this offers some context, from the perspective of an American traveler (heavily influenced by his Hungarian friends).

Well, they’ve gone and done it. They’ve taken down my favorite statue in Budapest. Godspeed, Imre Nagy.

It’s a crazy time in Hungary. Let’s face it: It’s a crazy time just about everywhere — with Trump, Putin, and Brexit rewriting the rules of what’s “normal.” But it’s particularly crazy in Viktor Orbán’s Hungary, where even the great anti-communist crusaders of the Cold War are finding themselves, suddenly and inexplicably, on the wrong side of history.

Just a few weeks ago, I turned in my updated files for the upcoming sixth edition of our Rick Steves Budapest guidebook . This morning, I had to rewrite large sections of the book because of all the changes taking place in Hungary.

If you’ve been paying attention to the news, you know that Hungary’s prime minister, Viktor Orbán, and his far-right, nativist political party, Fidesz, are continuing their campaign to remake Hungary in their own image. On a previous visit to Budapest, in 2016, I posted about some of those changes — from a statue of Ronald Reagan that had been erected right next to a Soviet Army memorial; to a new monument honoring “victims of fascism” that conspicuously ignored the crimes of the Nazi-allied Hungarian government; to the patriotic new “Changing of the Guard” ceremony on Orbán’s glitzy, fascist-style square behind the Parliament; to the Transylvanian flag that flies on the Parliament building in place of the EU flag.

On that 2016 visit, a local friend asked about the job market in Seattle. She’s seriously considering moving her family stateside to escape what she perceives as her society crumbling around her. Her teenagers now learn history from textbooks written by politicians — the same Fidesz-penned books that are required to be spoon-fed to every student in Hungary. Fidesz enjoys revising Hungarian history as much as they enjoy keeping refugees and immigrants out of their country.

The intervening two and a half years have felt like an eternity. And even in just the last couple of months, the list of Orbán’s offenses has grown. Here are just a few of the changes in Hungary in the several weeks since I was there updating my book:

George Soros — yes, that George Soros , favorite punching bag of the American right — founded a university in his hometown of Budapest in 1991. As Hungary and its neighboring countries were just emerging from Soviet rule, Central European University offered students a place to study at a US-accredited institution, allowing them a foothold in the greater academic world of the West. CEU grew to become highly respected. But Soros — who is as loathed by Fidesz as he is by Fox News — is on the outs in today’s Hungary. And in December, CEU announced they will relocate to Vienna , after failing to meet Fidesz’s draconian new requirements to operate legally in Hungary.

Also in December, Fidesz announced a new law to roll back overtime protections for workers . (Because of Fidesz’s restrictive immigration stance, and because bright young Hungarian workers have left the country in droves, Hungary suffers from a labor shortage. Who could have predicted it?) This new policy — nicknamed the “Slave Law” — has spurred widespread protests . Even many Fidesz supporters are criticizing a government ostensibly dedicated to “family values” effectively requiring citizens to work longer hours.

Meanwhile, Viktor Orbán has finally moved into his over-the-top new palace , up on Castle Hill. Orbán grew tired of living among the commoners, so he evicted the National Dance Theater from their home near the old royal palace and renovated their building into a plush new residence for himself. My Budapest friends have been grumbling about this since it was first announced a few years back — “He thinks he’s better than us! He wants to be up on the mountaintop, looking down upon all his subjects.”

Worst of all, just a few days ago, I received an email from my Budapest friend, confirming that the rumors she’d told me in September have now come true: A beloved statue of the great communist reformer, Imre Nagy, which stood for more than 20 years facing the Parliament building, has been removed by Fidesz authorities . She wrote, “It is a sad day for many of us here!” (It’s worth noting that Budapesters are connoisseurs of monuments. The city is graced with more than its share of memorable statues, from whimsical to poignant. )

Imre Nagy (pronounced “IHM-reh nodge,” 1896-1958), now thought of as an anti-communist hero, was actually a lifelong communist. In the late 1940s, he quickly moved up the hierarchy of Hungary’s communist government, becoming prime minister during a period of reform in 1953. But when his proposed changes alarmed Moscow, Nagy was quickly demoted.

When Hungary’s 1956 Uprising broke out on October 23, Imre Nagy was drafted (reluctantly, some say) to become the head of the movement to soften the severity of the communist regime. Because he was an insider, it briefly seemed that Nagy might hold the key to finding a middle path between the suffocating totalitarian model of Moscow and the freedom of the West.

Some suspect that Nagy himself didn’t fully grasp the sea change represented by the uprising. When he appeared at the Parliament building on the night of October 23 to speak to the reform-craving crowds for the first time, he began by addressing his compatriots — as communist politicians always did — with, “Dear comrades…” When the audience booed, he amended it: “Dear friends…” The crowd went wild.

But the optimism was short-lived. The Soviets violently put down the uprising, arrested and sham-tried Nagy, executed him, and buried him disgracefully, face-down in an unmarked grave. The regime forced Hungary to forget about Nagy.

In 1989, when communism was in its death throes, the Hungarian people rediscovered Nagy as a hero. His body was located, exhumed, and given a ceremonial funeral at Heroes’ Square . (It was also something of a coming-out party for Viktor Orbán — yes, the current prime minister — who, as a twentysomething rebel, delivered an impassioned speech at the ceremony.) Nagy’s symbolic re-burial is considered a pivotal event in that year of tremendous change.

The Nagy monument near the Parliament, erected in 1996, has long been one of my favorites in all of Europe. Its design was poignant: Nagy stood upon a bridge, representing his own political philosophy, which sought common ground between the stifling communism of the USSR and the capitalist free-for-all of the West. The bridge itself was made of treads from Soviet tanks — like the ones used to put down the 1956 Uprising.

Nagy’s face wore an expression not of defiance or dominance, but of inquisitive compassion. He looked across the square at the towering red dome of the Hungarian Parliament, symbolically keeping an eye on the government.

But now that statue is gone — removed with little warning and zero fanfare, in the middle of the night, just two days after Christmas. Viktor Orbán — who, let’s not forget, made his name lauding Nagy — has apparently decided to unilaterally reverse the rehabilitation of Nagy’s image. Fidesz claims that they are moving the statue to a different (and decidedly less prominent) location, on Jászai Mari tér, near Margaret Bridge. But no preparations on that site have taken place, leaving open the possibility that Nagy will again be brushed into the dustbin of history.

As someone who passionately loves Budapest, this worries and saddens me. It should worry and sadden you, too. Removing the statue of a gentle, heroic man who sacrificed his life to improve the lot of the Hungarians is a clear sign that Orbán believes history is open to his individual interpretation.

Let’s be clear: We’re not talking about removing Confederate flags or statues of Robert E. Lee, which are broadly offensive symbols of racism and slavery. There’s nothing offensive about Nagy to the vast, vast majority of Hungarians, who view him as a beloved figure. He symbolizes sacrifice in the face of oppression, and the courage to rise up for what’s right. Removing the Nagy statue would be more like taking down a statue to Martin Luther King, Jr., because of some obscure political beef.

The only Hungarians offended by the image of Nagy are communist sympathizers longing for a return to the darkest days of Stalinism. And, it seems, Viktor Orbán. It’s rarely constructive to psychoanalyze a despot, but it’s difficult to imagine why Orbán has it in for Nagy. He claims his goal is to return the appearance of the square to its pre-communist, pre-WWII glory days. Why, then, is Orbán erecting brand-new statues even as he’s taking this one away? Surely the truth is more deeply rooted. For one thing, because Nagy’s historical ties to communism place him on the left, Fidesz simplistically views him as an ideological enemy. And perhaps, as he continues Hungary’s slide toward totalitarianism, Orbán is uncomfortable with celebrating an upriser on Hungary’s grand Parliament square.

Adding insult to injury, that old memorial to Soviet soldiers still stands next to Ronald Reagan. To be entirely clear here: Fidesz has removed a statue of a freedom fighter, but has chosen to leave in place a monument to an army that “liberated” Hungary in order to occupy it for four and a half decades.

Someone once said, “May you live in interesting times.” But this is simply exhausting. Just a few years ago, someone who was executed by the communist authorities for his brave protest would be considered an unqualified hero. But in Viktor Orbán’s Hungary, nothing makes sense anymore. The next time I visit Budapest and walk past the Parliament, I’ll miss seeing Nagy’s comforting form, keeping a watchful eye on things. Rest in peace, Imre Nagy. And rest in peace, rational governance in Hungary.

The Rick Steves guide to life

Travel mogul. Philanthropist. Legal weed champion. The real Rick Steves is so much more complex than who you see on TV.

EDMONDS, Wash. — At first glance, it is hard to tell that Rick Steves is protesting.

In the center of his hometown, America’s favorite travel host is perched on the edge of a fountain roundabout engaging in some friendly civil disobedience. As cars circle the intersection, Steves smiles and waves, looking more like an Elf on a Shelf than an angry picketer. This is his way of reminding people he wishes they’d stop driving here.

Steves’s family moved to Edmonds when he was 12, and the 68-year-old is still happy to call it home. Rather than relocate to his beloved Europe, he dreams of bringing some European sensibilities to the edge of the Puget Sound, less than 20 miles north of Seattle.

When he’s not traveling around Europe, writing about Europe or running his multimillion-dollar European tour company, the prolific TV host and author likes to squeeze in some local activism. The roundabout routine is his push to block off Edmonds’s very American Main Street for pedestrians. If you squint at it, you can see what Steves sees: This would be the perfect place for a lively town square.

“I like a lot of things about Europe, but I love the urban energy of Europe. I love the piazza,” Steves said in a wistful tone you might recognize from PBS. “We don’t have a piazza.”

Unfortunately for Steves, the voting majority of the city does not love the idea of parking their SUVs farther away to shop. So despite his Boy Scout enthusiasm, the most famous man in Edmonds must keep up the perch-and-wave. This is not his only crusade.

Spend any amount of time with Steves, and you’ll encounter a total ham who loves a zany bit. But if you ask him about serious issues such as car-free zones, he’ll bring up other causes that are dear to him: affordable housing, supporting the arts, creating senior centers for the elderly to age with dignity.

He’s anti-Trump and pro-cannabis. He does not care if that is bad for business.

The average Rick Steves fan has probably missed this side of him. On TV, they see an always-sunny history lover who makes going abroad feel approachable for the average American. That’s an incomplete picture, like thinking you know Paris because you’ve seen the Eiffel Tower on YouTube.

Meet him in Edmonds, and he’ll fill in the rest.

It may look like a lot of gallivanting, but being Rick Steves takes a lot of work.

He spends three months of the year overseas, researching, writing, recording, refining tours, updating guidebooks. If he’s not planning or producing content, he’s often doing promotional events across the United States. This year, Steves is celebrating the 40th edition of his first book, “Europe Through the Back Door.” Over the course of his career, he has built a privately held company that generates $120 million in revenue a year, published 110 books, filmed 12 seasons of “Rick Steves’ Europe” and produced more than 750 podcast episodes.

“It’s just like coordinating a three-ring circus,” Steves said.

That is: really fun, sort of exhilarating and extremely complicated. To pull this off, Steves does not observe the French 35-hour workweek. He’s a workhorse with a reputation for keeping a frenetic pace year-round.

“It’s more of an American work culture,” Amy Duncan, Steves’s communications director, told me. “He’s an unapologetic capitalist, but he is also a socialist.”

He makes enough money to fly first class, but he sits in only economy, claiming that he doesn’t mind being cramped.

“It never occurred to me that I’m suffering,” he said. “As long as I’ve got an aisle and a seat that reclines, I’m happy.”

Actually, Steves believes airlines should have only one class. It’s part of his egalitarian worldview. He’s also anti-points and anti-miles, refusing to sign up for airline loyalty programs because he believes that they bully us into complicating our lives.

Steves also enforces a self-imposed “ carbon tax ” on his tour company, which takes more than 30,000 people to Europe annually. For every customer, Steves invests $30 to atone for emissions created by their flights between the United States and Europe. Last year, that added up to $1 million donated to a portfolio of organizations, Steves said.

“I don’t need to be a slave to the quarterly profit statement. I want to be around and profitable in 10 years from now in a world that you can travel in that’s stable,” Steves said. “This is a smart investment, and it’s an ethical expense that I should pay for.”

Rick Steves will tell you he’s motivated by making money; the more he can earn, the more good he can do with it.

“Vicarious consumption, that’s one of my things,” Steves said.

After amassing a windfall from the 2001 George W. Bush tax cuts for high earners, Steves donated $1 million to support the local symphony and performing arts center. In 2005, he used retirement savings to buy a 24-unit apartment complex for the local YWCA’s use as transitional housing for women and children. He figured he’d eventually sell the complex and live on the earnings. About a decade later, he changed his mind and donated the complex valued at $4 million.

He also gave more than $4 million to help build the Edmonds Waterfront Center, a vibrant gathering place for seniors where his daughter had her wedding in 2021. And he gave another $2 million for a similar center in the nearby city of Lynnwood, which broke ground in mid-April .

“Rick puts his money where his mouth is,” said Nancy Leson, a former Seattle Times food critic who used to let Steves’s daughter babysit her son. She has appreciated his regular presence in the community, which has entailed hosting events for local politics at his house and shopping at the farmers market .

“He changed travel,” local resident Karen Howe said on her way into the Waterfront Center with a friend. She has used Steves’s guidebooks for years. “He’s introduced us to places that most of us would never think of going.”

Steves hasn’t won his piazza battle, but he has brought European touches to Edmonds. At the Rick Steves’ Europe headquarters, there’s an E.U. flag hanging from the mocha brick facade. And gargoyles that drain rainwater, just like at the Notre Dame cathedral.

“Gargoyles scare away evil spirits,” Steves points out, unable to suppress his inner tour guide.

Here Steves employs more than 100 people: editors, audio producers, tour specialists and cartographers such as Dave Hoerlein, his first employee. That’s excluding the fleet of guides and drivers he contracts across the pond to shepherd tour customers.

Inside, he bounds through a maze of cubicles, his neck craned forward, always at an eager pace. His 6-foot frame appears leaner than in previous seasons of his life, but his signature look is familiar. No, not khakis and a button-down. That’s vintage Rick. These days, he wears dark jeans and a button-down, plus a thin scarf and leather sneakers.

During a day of meetings, Steves’s fjord-blue eyes lit up at the minutia of the business. He went over new maps with Hoerlein. He and longtime co-author Cameron Hewitt addressed problems such as finding a “less glitzy” stop on the Amalfi Coast that’s not Sorrento. They discussed whether a place is worth visiting after it’s gotten too popular, and Steves indulged in some gallows humor.

“It’s going to be like holding the corpse of a loved one who just died,” he said.

His critics argue that the “Rick Steves Effect” can turn a charming village, restaurant or museum into a tourist magnet. Matthew Kepnes, the travel writer behind the blog Nomadic Matt , points to the Swiss town Zermatt, which he says Steves put on the map, and has since dealt with overtourism . You’re bound to bump into groups with Rick Steves guidebooks in Italy’s increasingly crowded Cinque Terre.

Whether Steves is actually to blame for changing a place is up for debate. There are plenty of destinations he’s covered that haven’t been inundated with swarms of Americans (see also: Gdańsk).

Steves says he assesses whether a place wants tourism, if it can handle it gracefully. If it doesn’t or can’t, he may mention it but not promote it.

He has faith — maybe too much — that his clients share his values.

“Does [my work] change the personality of a town? It can. Am I a dramatic impact on Europe? No,” he said.

“There’s a handful of places I really promote aggressively that I’ve had a serious impact on, but otherwise ... my travelers are the kind of people that take only pictures and leave only footprints. ... They’re good travelers.”

You don’t have to spend much time in Edmonds to see why Steves never considered leaving.

The city — population roughly 42,000 — sits on a majestic inlet. You can get to a major international airport in about an hour. The community is so courteous, it has an “umbrella share” program in case people forget their own on a rainy day. As Steves walks around town, he greets people by name. He lives within walking distance to both his favorite diner and a pétanque court, the French answer to Italian bocce. He plays bongos at his church on Sundays.

In 1967, Richard “Dick” Steves moved the family here because he was worried about Rick Junior.

“I was hanging out with dangerous kids and going down the wrong trail,” Steves said. Seriously.

His dad, an Army veteran, got by in the upscale suburb as a piano technician and importer. When Steves was 14, his parents dragged him on a work trip to Europe to visit piano factories; it was a radical experience that sparked his lifelong passion for travel.

Back in Edmonds, Steves started teaching piano, eventually turning his savings into trips abroad of his own — not only to Europe, but also to Turkey, Nepal, Afghanistan. He went to college nearby, earning degrees in European history and business from the University of Washington, where he played in the Husky Marching Band.

After graduating, Steves figured he could keep up his routine: give piano lessons during the school year, then travel during the summer. He started teaching travel classes in the same recital hall where his piano students performed. This was back when there was no internet and there were few guidebooks to consult for trip planning.

The classes were a hit. At 25, Steves turned his lecture materials into a 180-page book, and self-published “Europe Through the Back Door,” in 1980.

Four years later, he hosted his first European minibus tour group, serving as both bus driver and guide.

His businesses have evolved; his bus tours now take up to 28 travelers, a number Steves says is a sweet spot between making the tour more affordable yet enjoyable for customers and profitable for the company. But his mission has remained the same: to be the best resource for European travel and help Americans travel better.

“I just focus on that and I love it,” he said. “It takes my life out of balance — which is not good — but it lets me do a lot of stuff that I believe in and that’s good.”

Steves has been open about the challenges of being a travel mogul. As he built his empire, he was also raising a family. Being “married” to both took a toll. In 2010, Steves and his wife, Anne, divorced after 25 years of marriage.

Up the hill from his junior high, Rick Steves’s modest beige home offers a window into his many lives. There are family photos on the walls, from older relatives to his baby grandson, Atlas. He hosts political fundraisers on the sprawling deck. A painting of Kerala, India, nods to one of his favorite countries. (People forget that Steves did four editions of “Asia Through the Back Door.”)

Next to his grand piano, there’s a stuffed creature that Steves calls his “Silver Fox” baring its teeth and wearing novelty sunglasses with cannabis leaves on the lenses — a nod to two of his interests: taxidermy and marijuana activism.

“It’s the civil liberties. … It’s the racism. … Everything about it is wrong,” he said of keeping weed illegal.

As for the toothy fox, Steves doesn’t do typical souvenirs anymore, but he makes an exception for stuffed animals.

“The wooden shoes and the pewter Viking ships are so obvious,” he said. “I like to do something a little more organic and a little more striking, and it takes me back there — I like it.”

He’s a very good piano player. He can also play the sousaphone and the trumpet — which he did regularly during the pandemic, performing taps for his neighbors at sunset.

The coronavirus was a nightmare for the travel business, but a miracle for Steves’s love life.

After running in the same social circles for years, he and Shelley Bryan Wee, a prominent local bishop, started dating at the end of 2019. They had a lot in common. Both are progressive Lutherans. Both are divorced with adult children. But neither worked a typical 9-to-5, and one of them spent three months of the year in Europe.

Then shutdowns happened. Steves, who couldn’t remember whether he’d ever had dinner in the same place 10 nights in a row, spent 100 nights at the same table with Wee. It solidified their relationship.

“Shelley is a constant,” Steves said. He still struggles with the balancing act between work and love.

When the stars align and they’re both in Edmonds, Wee cooks, and Steves plays sous-chef. They walk Jackson, Wee’s labradoodle, creating their own version of the passeggiata, Italy’s traditional evening stroll. They play table tennis before dinner.

When the world reopened, they started traveling together. They’ve made time for a few big vacations: a trip to Morocco, where they were caught in a windstorm that blew the windows out of their car; a luxury barge cruise through Burgundy, France, “that was embarrassingly expensive,” Steves confessed, followed by a week hiking in the Swiss Alps; and another hiking trip between remote lodges on Mont Blanc.

Before their first trip, Steves edited the contents of Wee’s suitcase, because packing light is part of his philosophy.

“What do you say?” she asked. “You’re talking to Rick Steves.”

Editing by Gabe Hiatt. Additional editing by Amanda Finnegan. Design editing by Christine Ashack. Photo editing by Lauren Bulbin. Videos by Monica Rodman. Senior video producer: Nicki DeMarco. Design by Katty Huertas. Copy editing by Jamie Zega.

More travel news

How we travel now: More people are taking booze-free trips — and airlines and hotels are taking note. Some couples are ditching the traditional honeymoon for a “buddymoon” with their pals. Interested? Here are the best tools for making a group trip work.

Bad behavior: Entitled tourists are running amok, defacing the Colosseum , getting rowdy in Bali and messing with wild animals in national parks. Some destinations are fighting back with public awareness campaigns — or just by telling out-of-control visitors to stay away .

Safety concerns: A door blew off an Alaska Airlines Boeing 737 Max 9 jet, leaving passengers traumatized — but without serious injuries. The ordeal led to widespread flight cancellations after the jet was grounded, and some travelers have taken steps to avoid the plane in the future. The incident has also sparked a fresh discussion about whether it’s safe to fly with a baby on your lap .

The Best Travel Tip To Use When Planning Your Next Trip, According To Travel Guru Rick Steves

W hile traveling requires at least some planning ahead of time, some people prefer to be spontaneous upon arrival at their destinations. Others draw up a detailed itinerary for each day of the trip. There are pros and cons to each of these travel styles. A go-with-the-flow plan could feel more relaxing, but you could also end up missing some great experiences. On the other hand, a meticulous itinerary could help you see everything you want to see, but not leave wiggle room for spontaneous opportunities.

Travel guru Rick Steves has made a life and a business based on helping people travel. His guidebooks, tour company, and show on PBS have helped thousands travel safely, affordably, and practically. While he gives tips on specific destinations, he also gives tips on best practices no matter where you are going. On keeping a loose itinerary versus detailed planning, his big tip is that travelers should balance both mindsets for successful travels.

Read more: 10 Items Better To Buy Than Pack

Some Attractions In Major Cities Have Implemented Crowd Control Methods

Rick Steves began traveling at the age of 18 and never looked back. His tour company Rick Steves' Europe runs tours all over the continent. His years of traveling for personal joy and for business have allowed him to figure out what people should book ahead of time and what can be left up to spontaneity or availability. Not knowing this can mean getting stuck wasting time in long lines for popular attractions.

Long lines have grown prevalent with decreasing global worries surrounding COVID-19. "More than ever, people are going to the same famous places. Museums want to moderate their mob scenes," Steves explained to Travel + Leisure ." Some popular attractions have kept COVID-19 crowd control methods in place, such as requiring online reservations. Making these before your trip can not only save you from lines, but it can even prevent you from missing out on must-see places. For example, there is a "skip the line" feature when buying tickets for the Vatican Museums online and when visiting the Hungarian Parliament in Budapest , the website recommends reserving your spot online as in-person ticket sales are limited.

Rick Steves Wants Travelers To Embrace Serendipity

Once you have researched which attractions are best to  book in advance , Rick Steves encourages travelers to keep the rest of their trip open to any other exciting things that may come their way. "If a serendipitous opportunity presents itself, the answer has always got to be 'yes,'" he stated to Travel + Leisure. Steves believes that over-planning "takes away some of the joy of travel, which is letting things unfold in an unpredictable way." Sometimes unexpected activities or restaurants can make for an even more memorable trip.

Rick Steves' tour company practices what he preaches. Steves knows that there are positives and negatives to extensive pre-planning when going on a trip, and that not everyone has the same travel style. His company's tour options reflect that as some tours plan out each day's activities while others only take care of lodging and transportation between destinations. Whether you book through a travel company or not, Steves' advice on knowing what must be booked before arrival could still apply. 

Read the original article on Explore .