Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

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Picture pristine white sand beaches, mystical stone monuments, quiet roads through lochs and inlets, and wild waves crashing on a lighthouse. A colony of inquisitive puffins, distant ferries sailing by, and peaceful crofts and farmland with plentiful sheep. An icy cold wind reminds you that you’re on the far edge of Scotland. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides.

Absolute Escapes are award-winning specialists in self-drive holidays in Scotland , and we love the opportunity to use our knowledge and experience to design the perfect, bespoke holiday for our clients.

The Outer Hebrides is a destination close to our hearts and we’re delighted to share a bit of our first-hand knowledge. Read on to find out all you’ve ever wanted to know about visiting Scotland’s spectacular western islands.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Visit Outer Hebrides (@visitouterhebrides)

General FAQs:

Where are the Outer Hebrides?

What is the history of the outer hebrides, what’s the weather like in the outer hebrides, when is the best time to visit the outer hebrides, what’s the largest island in the outer hebrides.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides:

Do ferries sail to the Outer Hebrides?

Are there flights to the outer hebrides, how do i get from edinburgh or glasgow to the outer hebrides, how do i get from london to the outer hebrides.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides:

What kind of accommodation is in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there luxury hotels in the outer hebrides, what are the best places to stay in the outer hebrides.

Touring the Outer Hebrides:

What are the best things to do in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there good walking opportunities in the outer hebrides, where are the best beaches in the outer hebrides, what are the best boat trips in the outer hebrides, how do i visit st kilda, are there escorted tours of the outer hebrides, are there midges in the outer hebrides, how do i book a holiday to the outer hebrides.

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, are a chain of remote islands located off the northwest coast of Scotland.

The main islands that form this archipelago include Lewis and Harris (two ‘islands’ connected by land), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. However, there are as many as ten more islands connected or attached to the main islands!

Tiny islands such as Berneray and Vatersay act as a link in the chain and are equally worth exploring, despite their small size.

The Outer Hebrides have been inhabited since Mesolithic times, and there is a range of fascinating prehistoric archaeological sites to discover. The most famous of these is the ancient Neolithic Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, which resembles its better-known younger cousin Stonehenge in England.

Also on Lewis you’ll find Dun Carloway – one of the best-preserved brochs in the country.

In addition to Neolithic stone structures, there are many other historic sites and interesting archaeological finds that reveal the fascinating history of the islands, from Medieval churches to mummy remains in the Cladh Hallan Roundhouses!

Celtic roots run deep within these island communities and Gaelic is an important aspect of life in the Outer Hebrides. Islanders are proud of their Celtic heritage, and this is reflected in the rich arts and music culture that stems from the islands.

Gaelic is still widely spoken and popular crafts such as Harris Tweed and Celtic jewellery are still handmade using traditional methods.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Stuart Ansell (@stuartansellphotography)

With their soft white sand and clear turquoise waters, picture-postcard images of beaches in the Outer Hebrides might transport you to the Caribbean. However, you are far from the Caribbean warmth!

The weather in the Outer Hebrides is much the same as in the rest of the west coast of Scotland – a bit chilly, a bit windy, and maybe a little wet at times.

While lovely sunny days do exist, it is always worth being prepared to face the elements. A light waterproof jacket, boots and layers are your best companion on an island-hopping adventure .

Although, make sure you don’t forget your swimming costume (or wetsuit perhaps!).

The Outer Hebrides are a very popular destination with limited accommodation on offer, so it’s always worth booking well in advance.

High summer months such as July and August tend to be the busiest, while May, June and September are great alternatives when the weather might be drier.

Summer days in the Outer Hebrides are long, giving you more opportunities to make the most of your trip and enjoy all that the islands have to offer.

Lewis & Harris is the largest island in the Outer Hebrides, where most of the population lives. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and commercial centre of the islands, home to approximately 8,000 people.

If you have limited time to visit the islands, then Stornoway or Tarbert in Harris might the best bases for you to explore much of the islands and do a couple of day trips.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides

There are various ways to travel to the Outer Hebrides, but if you wish to explore the whole chain, then multiple ferry rides are involved.

From the Scottish mainland, you can travel to Barra from Oban, to North Uist from Skye (which is connected to the mainland by the Skye Bridge), or to Stornoway from Ullapool.

While there are daily sailings available, these are limited to once or twice per day, so booking in advance is important if you are taking a car on the ferry. You can pre-book your journeys on the Calmac website.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by CalMac Ferries (@calmacferries)

Flying to the Outer Hebrides is also a tempting option as the flight to the Isle of Barra is an incredibly scenic and exciting trip! Barra Airport is unique as it is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach.

Direct flights are available from most Scottish airports to Barra, Lewis and Benbecula. Trips are typically under an hour, so travelling by air can be quicker than travelling by ferry, but often more expensive and less environmentally friendly. You can check flight times and plan your journey on the Skyscanner website.

From Edinburgh or Glasgow, you can either fly to Stornoway and/or Barra. While this might save you some time, the drive to the west coast of Scotland is spectacular and, in our opinion, unmissable.

We would recommend driving to Oban, following the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, and traversing across wild Argyll towards the coast.

If you prefer to start your island-hopping itinerary from the north to travel south, then travelling north across the Scottish Highlands to Ullapool will take a little longer. In this case, we would suggest splitting your journey by spending an additional night en route.

As there are no direct flights from London to the Outer Hebrides, we would recommend travelling to Edinburgh or Glasgow and making your way to the Outer Hebrides from there.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides

There is a range of lovely places to stay dotted all around in the Outer Hebrides. For our self-drive packages, we will normally try to secure accommodation in a larger town or village with various amenities, such and Stornoway or Tarbert.

However, there are some special places to stay in more remote areas, which are absolutely worth a short drive.

Proper luxury in the form of a 5* hotel is not available in the Outer Hebrides, but there are some truly spectacular and unique places to stay.

Scarista House in Harris is a very popular destination – an elegant yet rustic B&B and fine dining restaurant with lovely rooms featuring spectacular views towards the sea and nearby hills.

Another wonderful place to stay is Broad Bay House on the Isle of Lewis. Owners Sue and Tom offer a warm welcome to their beautiful 5* guest house which offers panoramic sea views, comfortable rooms, and some of the best local produce from the islands.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Scarista House (@scaristahouse)

Scarista House and Broad Bay House are undoubtedly two of the best places to stay on the islands. However, we also work with a range of accommodation in our Budget and Standard categories, which offer good food, comfort and an all-round unforgettable experience.

For example, the small Heathbank Hotel in Barra has a great restaurant featuring some of the freshest seafood in the country, while Beul Na Mara in Harris sits near the specular Luskentyre Beach and offers clean, bright and airy rooms.

Langass Lodge in North Uist is one of our top choices of Premium accommodation and another great place to stay; this former hunting lodge overlooks Loch Eport and its kitchen serves modern Scottish cuisine featuring fresh island ingredients.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Langass Lodge (@langasslodgehotel)

Touring the Outer Hebrides

Have we mentioned heading to the beach yet? In addition to the many stunning beaches on the islands, there are plenty of other great activities on offer.

History fans will enjoy exploring Lews Castle in Stornoway; a Victorian Baronial mansion, or visiting the brooding ruins of Kisimul Castle in Barra.

The 5,000-year-old Calanais Standing Stones are a must for all visitors to Lewis (including Outlander fans!), while Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is a short drive from Callanish. Here, you can learn about traditional Hebridean blackhouses with their drystone walls and picturesque thatched roofs.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Gearrannan Blackhouse Village (@gearrannanblackhousevillage)

For those interested in wildlife and the outdoors, there are endless opportunities for walking, cycling, and sea kayaking on the islands. The Hebridean Whale Trail follows the best places in the Outer Hebrides to spot cetaceans, such as porpoises, orca whales, minke whales, as well as basking sharks and dolphins.

The Bird of Prey Trail spans the whole island chain and features location markers for the best places to see birds of prey, such as golden eagles, hen harriers and short-eared owls.

Inspired by stunning scenery and rich Celtic heritage, the Outer Hebrides are also home to some of the finest arts and crafts in the world. If it is a cultural experience that you are seeking, visit Sgeulachd a Chlò Mhòir – the official ‘Story Room’ of the Harris Tweed Authority. Harris Tweed is a luxurious wool fabric, exclusively handwoven in the Western Isles and you can find it in the many craft and gift shops in the islands. The art centres An Lanntair in Stornoway and Taigh Chearsabhagh in North Uist also host inspiring exhibitions, theatre and music events.

For those interested in whisky and gin, you might want to pop by the Isle of Harris Distillery which sits on the shores of East Loch Tarbert. While their whisky is still maturing, you can buy a bottle of the lovely Isle of Harris Gin, infused with sugar kelp.

Yes! The Outer Hebrides are a walker’s paradise, with magnificent beaches peacefully stretching for miles on end. The Hebridean Way is a long-distance route spanning nearly 200 miles across 10 breathtaking islands. It is very popular not only with walkers but with cyclists too.

For hillwalkers, there are also some mountain ranges in Harris. To the north, there is the most extensive and highest range of mountains in the Outer Hebrides—a wild conglomeration of ridges, glens and summits. Clisham (or An Cliseam) is the highest mountain at 799 metres high and it is the archipelago’s only Corbett. Further hillwalking opportunities are available in Lewis and South Uist.

If you are interested in learning more, you might wish to purchase a Pocket Mountains guidebook for walking on the islands. We would also recommend visiting our friends at Walkhighlands for inspiration on trickier routes and to help you plan your walks.

The spectacular coastline in the Western Isles is one of the main reasons the archipelago is such as popular tourist destination. The Outer Hebrides have a restorative quality, with endless quiet beaches, an invigorating sea breeze, and the relaxing scent of machair and wildflowers.

Often rated as some of the top beaches in the world, Luskentyre Beach in Harris and Uig Sands in Lewis are undoubtedly two of the most spectacular beaches on the islands.

There are many other tranquil beaches to explore such as Vatersay Bay; the small island of Vatersay is linked by causeway to Barra and boats a stunning sandy bay and a wide expanse of dunes.

Eriskay is another small island connected to South Uist by a causeway and it is host to the beautiful Coileag a’ Prionnnsa beach.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Dan Ferguson (@_dfergie94)

As well as the trip to St Kilda (see below), Seatrek , which is based in Lewis, offers unforgettable boat trips around the Uig coastline.

Kilda Cruises also offer shorter trips off the coast of Harris, including fishing trips and excursions to the Shiant Isles.

St Kilda is one of the most unique and spectacular places one could visit in the world. This uninhabited isolated archipelago with rugged sea cliffs and impressive sea-stacks towers out of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

It is home to nearly one million seabirds, including the largest colony of Atlantic puffins in the UK. It is also one of the only dual UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. It is remote. It is wild. It is breathtaking.

A trip to St Kilda is certainly worth it, but not easy. It takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours to sail to St Kilda each way from the Isle of Harris. Boat trips are available from Leverburgh with Kilda Cruises and Sea Harris , and booking well in advance is essential.

As these trips are often disrupted by the weather, our recommendation would be to spend at least three nights in Harris and book the trip on day two, so if the trip needs to be rescheduled, you can try again the following day.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by MoodyScotland (@moodyscotland)

Our friends at Rabbie’s Tours offer escorted tours to the Outer Hebrides departing from Edinburgh and Inverness. Rabbie’s are an award-winning company whose expert guides truly take you beyond the guidebooks to explore the stunning scenery and extraordinary history of this country.

Explore the islands in a modern, air-conditioned mini-coach touring with a maximum of 16 passengers. Please get in touch if you are interested in an escorted tour. Rabbie’s will do the guiding, and with our expert knowledge, we’ll make sure you stay in the best accommodation on each island.

Midges are small biting insects and they can indeed be a pest. The good news is that they tend to not be too much of a problem in the Outer Hebrides as there is usually a bit of a sea breeze to keep them away.

Midges like cool, overcast days, and don’t like direct sunlight or wind. You might want to “smidge-up” if you are spending some time on the west coast upon your return from the islands though, particularly during high summer. Smidge is available almost everywhere in the Scottish Highlands, but we also recommend Avon Skin So Soft which is incredibly effective.

Our Hebridean Island Hopping itinerary is one of our most popular self-drive holidays in Scotland, but we can also create a bespoke itinerary based on your interests and requirements.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with our expert team if we can help you plan an unforgettable Hebridean escape!

Katia Fernandez Mayo

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Outer Hebrides Road Trip: Your 1 Week Itinerary for the Western Isles

If you want to experience the wilds of Scotland, a road trip through the Outer Hebrides is a great introduction. Here’s my itinerary to help you plan your Western Isles adventure.

Outer Hebrides road trip

Go on a road trip to the Outer Hebrides and you’ll avoid the crowds of the almighty North Coast 500, and get to see some of the most open and free parts of Scotland. 

I went to the Outer Hebrides with my friend and fellow travel blogger, Helen in Wonderlust. Sounds incredibly stupid now, but I hadn’t quite realised I’d planned a road trip to the Outer Hebrides, as I was going off Instagram pictures I’d seen. Genuinely thought I was going on a road trip to the Western Isles –  who knew it was the same thing, hey? 

Anyway, confession over, let me guide you through our Outer Hebrides road trip, so you can do the same (one day!). 

Click to see the Outer Hebrides Road Trip Route Map

Road trip Outer Hebrides

This was our basic route for the Outer Hebrides road trip. I planned it two weeks before – the day before I went to Norfolk for four days – so, it was a skeleton of an idea, which we planned to flesh out while we were there. 

I’d originally planned more destinations, including Ullapool, but when it came to booking the ferries I realised it was just too much.

Road trip in the outer hebrides

Just a warning, booking the ferries for our Outer Hebrides road trip was more complicated than I thought. Knowing the names of the ferry ports, planning the timings and connections, and then, knowing if they had space was harder than I planned. This probably took me about three hours, but with this guide you’ll be able to do it in way less.

More tips on actually booking the Outer Hebrides road trip below. 

So, let’s get onto the Western Isles road trip itinerary, shall we?

Do you need a rental car for your road trip? Check out the award-winning comparison site Discover Cars for the BEST DEALS the world over. Book early for the best price!

Day 1: Driving through Loch Lomond

After driving up from Portsmouth, where I live and about 275 miles away, the day before, we actually set off from Preston. Managed to swing by Tebay Services to drop £50 on snacks, as if we could afford it.

And, after a great drive through the Lake District , we were in Scotland . Kinda daunting how Google Maps told me it was just straight for 174 miles on the motorway, but at least it kept the instructions easy to follow.

Loch Lomond things to do 

I needed a break, and so we pulled up to  Loch Lomond Shores , at the south of Loch Lomond. It’s a small shopping centre with a Sea Life Centre and a park, and a watersports hire place. We had a look round, went to the toilet, and left – weren’t really feeling the vibe. 

Luss in Loch Lomond

Instead we drove north, to the village of Luss. It’s known as one of the cutest villages around Loch Lomond, and so we went for lunch at The Village Rest . A popular spot where I enjoyed an amazing jacket potato and veggie curry – delicious. I’d 100% recommend. 

Exploring Luss in Loch Lomond

We went for a wander around Luss. Ended up buying a Scottish face mask (it was September 2020), seeing a stunning rainbow over the pier, and admiring the cute houses, the village is known for. There was also a great gift shop, and a lovely little coffee shop too. Definitely worth a stop off. 

We’d toyed with the idea of visiting Loch Katrine around the lock , and going on a Loch Katrine cruise , but the weather was threatening to change and we decided we were too tired. It was in the wrong direction. If you can fit it in though, and it’s not 2020, then take a look. Pack your women’s parka coat to keep you warm if you want to do this – there are some great ones at Trespass !

We stopped at Ardui instead. Took the time for a local beer and a quick go with the drone, and carried on. The scenery was great. 

It would’ve been great to explore the Loch more, but with the weather and driving distances, we decided to crack on and get settled for the night. If you did want to do some more  driving round Loch Lomond, there are some great scenic drives listed there. 

Loch Lomond accommodation

I managed to freak myself out by obsessively reading weather reports, and so ended up booking a ‘mountain hut’ at the Pine Trees Holiday Park at the last minute. Loved it. Seriously. Wasn’t even annoyed that the weather was fine and we would’ve been ok to camp, like I’d planned.

Staying at Pine Trees

For £20 each a night we got this cool hut, with an intense heater and just a few steps away from a shared bathroom, with great showers. The owner was great here and it backed onto the Wild Hebridean Way, which I totally plan to do one day.

I had a little walk on it here…

Pine Trees

I had actually paid for the camping round Loch Lomond already, as you can’t wild camp in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, like you can in the rest of Scotland. We paid £3. The weather scared me though, and staying at Pine Trees meant we didn’t have to drive too far the next day to Oban either. 

Here’s a MAP of the spots around Loch Lomond so you can decide if you want to do it or not.

Day 2: Oban to Castlebay (Barra)

I was so happy that I only had an hour’s drive to Oban from our accommodation, rather than the two on the original plan.

We stopped off for breakfast at The Real Food Cafe , just a minute’s drive from Pine Trees. Super clean, tasty breakfast baps, and a dedication to supporting toilets in Malawi, means this is a no brainer. Go!

We were warm, fed, and ready to get to the Outer Hebrides. 

travel guide outer hebrides

When you’re driving round the lochs in this area you’ll see lots of places to park up on the road, and passing places too – take advantage! We stopped off at Glen Lothy to find the reflection of Ben Cruachan on the water was particularly special that day. 

Arriving in Oban

We wanted to have time to look round Oban, so we didn’t stop too long. As soon as I arrived in Oban I wished we had longer , but then after three hours, I think that was about right. Unless you’re going in season and not in 2020 – then you could join a boat tour, or visit the distillery. 

On our visit in September 2020 we looked round the souvenir shops, admired the restaurants and mooched about the Scottish produce shops. We walked to the North Pier, and then the other pier, and went and took the car to the ferry in good time. 

Outer Hebrides road trip

My hot tip for Oban would be the fish market at the ferry terminal. NOT the one with the tartan on but right next to the terminal building. You’ll find it as there’s a huge queue outside. Great price seafood, and super popular. This would be a good place to pick up some Scotland souvenirs to remember your trip by.

The ferry from Oban to Castlebay (which is Barra’s main port) leaves at 13:40 and gets in at 18:25. Don’t be late as it cost almost £100 for a car and two passengers!

Check in closes 45 minutes before it’s scheduled leaving time. 

Oh, and it’s not the North Ferry Terminal. It’s much bigger than that and over the other side. If there aren’t road signs, you’re in the wrong place. Also, you can go about an hour early and park up there to avoid paying around the city.

Oban to Barra by ferry

travel guide outer hebrides

The ferry from Oban to Barra takes 5 hours. My mum had warned me before that it was sickening and rocky, and I shrugged it off. Heading into hour three, and it turned out she was right, as usual .

I was so seasick I couldn’t move.

I’d gone to get a drink downstairs, and Helen was upstairs and I seriously couldn’t muster my legs to go back and tell her where I was. It was rough. 

As soon as we arrived I was fine.

Thankfully.

But just to warn you.

Castlebay, Barra

We arrived onto Barra, to wind and rain, and so went to put up our tent at the Wavecrest Campsite. The guy there gave us the bright idea of camping on the hill, to be more private. We didn’t realise then quite what a mistake of an idea that was. 

travel guide outer hebrides

Tent up by the beach, all proud of ourselves, off we trotted into Castlebay for some food.

We went to Cafe Kisimul, an Indian/ Italian restaurant that comes very highly rated online. I went for a chicken jalfrezi – which was even more delicious considering it was about 8pm, and the rollercoaster of a day we had. We ended up staying till closing, getting as much electricity into our phones, and hot food in our bellies as possible. 

Accommodation in Barra

As I’ve said, it was September 2020, COVID times (although this was a break where we were allowed to travel!). All Outer Hebrides hotels I could find online were a two-night minimum, and they said different households weren’t allowed to mix, which is why we ended up camping.

There is a hostel you could try in normal times, called Dunard Hostel, which was in a great location. 

camping in scotland

Wavecrest Campsite was really basic. Three toilets and two showers in an industrial tanker thing, and that was about it. No Wi-Fi. It was by the beach though, and not far from the town, and the two members of staff were lovely. 

We barely got a wink of sleep that night though, thanks to the howling gales, our flapping tent, and the worry we were about to be blown into the sea. 

All good fun though, right?!

READ MORE: Fun Games for Road Trips to Keep You Busy

Day 3: Vatersay and exploring Barra

Vatersay is a little island off Barra, with a population of just 90 people . It makes for a lovely slow drive to explore the island and see the amazing Outer Hebrides beaches surrounding .

Make Traigh a Bhaigh Beach your first port of call. It’s stunning.

beaches in the outer hebrides

The weather really made it for us, and the fact it was one of the few places in the whole Outer Hebrides road trip that I managed to get my drone up – so enjoy these pictures. 

There’s a cafe here that does operate, although not when we were there. Too early. You can park near here though and there are toilets when it’s open.

We just chilled on the beach, had a brew and admired the view. Would’ve loved a swim but also didn’t want to as we were camping. Spend as long as you can here!

vatersay beach

We tried to drive round the island but you can’t actually go much further than this. Instead of driving on, you should walk over the dunes to Traigh Shiar Beach on the west coast. Gutted I missed it!

From here head off the island, and make sure you pull into Uidh Beach for pics. Again, more stunning coastline and views.

travel guide outer hebrides

Back on Barra 

Any other time, you can enjoy Barra Surf Adventures Barra surf adventures – sea kayaking . There wasn’t any availability thanks to it being 2020, but just wanted to add it in here for future travels.

Barra

For brunch we headed to the Hebridean Toffee Cafe, where unfortunately they didn’t have any toffee ready for us to sample. Instead, we had two bacon sandwiches each. Needed it. 

If you do want toffee you can pop into the Buth Barraigh Community Shop. Here you’ll find all kinds of local treats and goodies. 

Barra plane landing

The big thing to do in Barra is to watch the plane come in on the only beach runway in the WORLD. We magically timed it just right and made it for the 12:15 arrival – felt like everyone in Barra was there waiting!

It was pretty impressive coming in. I’m sure the passengers felt like superstars with all of us waiting. 

Ferry from Barra to Eriskay

Then we headed to the ferry terminal – a different one to the one we arrived in on, at the north of the island. 

Both pretty shattered we ended up having a nap at the terminal, in the car. Was so nice with the sun streaming in.

There was a cafe there, with cakes and coffees, so a scone for an afternoon snack it was. 

Barra ferry terminal

Barra to Eriskay – departs 15:40 / arrives 16:20 £17 for a car and two passengers

We took the ferry over, and sat in the car missing all the supposedly beautiful views. Blummin COVID meant we weren’t allowed to get out and walk around.

Arriving into Eriskay, we drove up to South Uist, admiring the views as we went. We were desperate for some decent food, and after quite a bit of driving with no map or phone signal, managed to find Charlie’s Bistro. 

Lasagne, with chips and garlic bread. TRIPLE carbs. Yes.

The owner, Iain, was lovely. He bought the cafe when it was an old sweet shop, called ‘Charlie’s’. He had fond memories of a childhood popping in there for sweets and so wanted to keep the name, but make it a lovely restaurant. 

He was really helpful in our quest to go wild camping in Scotland and directed us to a few beaches to try where no one would mind. 

Accommodation on Benbecula, South Uist

wild camp in outer hebrides

We ended up at Cula Bay. It was even windier than the night before and we couldn’t actually even get the big tent up. Thankfully I’d taken a one man one and so I slept in that on the beach, while Helen slept in the car. It was a rough night. 

I feel like I’ve learnt a lot about wild camping and though I’d totally do it again, that night was hard. 

The beach was amazing though!

Day 4: Road trip up the Uists, to Harris

Up early, it wasn’t good enough weather to properly enjoy the beach, so we packed up as soon as we woke up, and drove up South Uist and North Uist, with a leisurely drive to the terminal. 

wild camping in scotland

I was determined to use the camping stove and toastie maker I’d bought and so after managing to find an open shop at the terminal, we bought some bread and cheese. Unfortunately the wind was blowing the flame so much it didn’t cook, and so we had dry cold cheese sarnies for breakfast.

There’s nowhere to eat before 12 on South Uist. At least, we couldn’t find anywhere. 

Beneray to Leverburgh to Harris Island –  Departs 11:10 / Arrives 12:10

There’s loads of cool stuff to do on Lewis and Harris, but after two nights of camping, gawd we were tired. 

We decided to head north to our Airbnb and just see what we saw on the way. 

We accidentally happened upon the food truck, Taste n Sea, which actually ended up being my favourite food experience of the whole Outer Hebrides road trip. We didn’t know at the time, but they’re actually pretty highly regarded around the Hebrides. 

I went for cod pieces, Cullen Skink soup, and a tea. All tasted soooo good, and even better with this impressive view to look out on as we ate. 

travel guide outer hebrides

That gave us a good feed for the day, as we hadn’t realised the portions were quite so big. 

We pootled on to our Airbnb in Cromore, admiring the stunning scenery as we did. If the weather had been better I would’ve gone in for a wild swim.

Accommodation in Harris 

We got to our Airbnb in Cromore, showered and just fell asleep. SO nice to relax in a comfortable Scottish home.

wild camping outer hebrides

We had a room in a lovely couple’s home, but they had to go to the hospital in Glasgow for a check up so, along with another couple who’d got a room on Airbnb, we had the place to ourselves. Hot shower, lovely kitchen, and a massive DVD collection with a big lounge meant we were very happy to be there.

We paid around £21 each per night.

Day 5: Road trip round Lewis

Up and ready, finally refreshed. We wanted to see as much of Lewis as possible. Big day ahead.

The top things to do in Lewis include hiking, exploring the beaches, enjoying the Circular Scenic Route (which included the impressive Reef Beach), going to see the Callanish Stones , learning about the chess pieces of Lewis, and enjoying the Old Village (wasn’t open). 

cow

We had a great day driving round, BUT, the one thing that was missing, was food . Couldn’t find an open restaurant anywhere (this was Sept 2020). We managed a cup a soup at the Lewis Community Shop (great place), and that was it all day. 

So by 5pm we headed to Stornoway – the main town of the Western Isles and the capital of Lewis and Harris in Scotland. Had to be some food there! 

dinner at the harbour kitchen

We went for a pint and a packet of crisps at McNeills pub, and waited for the Harbour Kitchen to open. And when it did, wow. Managed an amazing meal. I ordered mussels and they gave me 71.

I counted them. Staff were lovely, and the bread they gave alongside was an absolute taste sensation. 

Accommodation in Lewis

We stayed at the Airbnb again, on Harris, and watched Braveheart. Lovely evening!

It was a bit of a drive but there weren’t any other option tbh.

89 Road Trip Quotes to Inspire Your Next Adventure

Day 6: Road trip round Harris

Today it was Harris’ turn. What could we find on our big day in Harris on our Outer Hebrides road trip? 

After leaving our Airbnb we headed into Tarbert, where we’d be getting our early ferry from tomorrow, and the most populated area on Harris.

First stop, breakfast. 

After getting some petrol (they do it for you, it’s great) we saw a sign for breakfast at the Harris Hotel . 

travel guide outer hebrides

Best bacon and egg sandwich ever. It was so hot inside, how did they do it? That set us up, and made us book into the hotel for that night too. As we still hadn’t planned any accommodation for our final night of the Outer Hebrides road trip. 

Day in Harris

We spent our day in Harris exploring Seilebost Beach, Luskentyre Beach, walking out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the Island of Scalpay, shopping in Tarbert, wishing we could go in the Harris Distillery, and generally having a lovely time. 

Road trip Outer Hebrides

We had dinner in the hotel – cod and chips, with a herring starter – and drinks in the bar after. It was a great last night on the Outer Hebrides!

travel guide outer hebrides

TOP TIP: Watch out for which Tarbert you book your hotel in. There’s another one in Argyll, where the Loch Lomond Park is and you don’t want to get muddled.

The Harris Hotel was very ‘Scottish’ looking, and traditional. I thought it was great – we were both impressed with our room. It was definitely bigger than the average, we had a sofa and TV, and of course a private bathroom too. 

It was about a two-minute drive from the port, and walkable to the famous Harris Distillery. There was plenty of parking out front, and the staff were lovely too. 

In fact, everyone we met in the Outer Hebrides was definitely nicer than the average!

You could also try the Hotel Harris, which was a bit more modern and even closer to the ferry terminal. Click here for more photos, prices and availability for the Hotel Hebrides .

travel guide outer hebrides

Day 7: Tarbert to Uig, in Skye

We were up and out, and managed to get the price of breakfast off our hotel as we didn’t have time to eat it. Pretty happy about that. So useful being about two minutes from the terminal too, glad we invested in the Harris Hotel!

Tarbert to Uig Departs 07:30 / Arrives 09:10

Ferry was pretty chill. Had a gross ‘sausage patty’ sandwich though – if they ask if you want ‘links’, say yes.

Unfortunately for us, the weather was terrible in Skye. My mum had been warning me all week about the weather warnings on breakfast TV. Well, it hit in Skye.

We’d been so excited to explore but the rain really stopped play. Driving was awful, and we couldn’t see the stunning views we knew were beyond the fog.

We drove round Quiraing, and managed a few pics and vista points before the heavens opened.

Scotland road trip

We sat and had cake in Portree, hoping it’d change. I have been to Skye before, on January 1st and weather was actually way better than in September, just to note. 

Outer Hebrides road trip

We gave up and didn’t even look round Portree in the end. Such a shame as we’d so been looking forward to exploring Skye.

Still determined, we drove up to the Fairy Pools, which look amazing online, but found they weren’t even open thanks to the torrential rainfall.

Driving through Glencoe

We drove south, through Glencoe, stopping at a Tibetan market we happened to see along the way. 

Glencoe is one of the most stunning places in the Highlands, but unfortunately we could barely see past our hands. So, we just decided to head back.

Outer Hebrides road trip

I had a LONG drive to do and wanted to get some of it over with.

We passed Ben Nevis somewhere in the fog, and stopped at Eilean Castle, which was featured in James Bond.

I just carried on driving past Loch Lomond and Pine Trees, through the rain, to Glasgow. 

We arrived into Glasgow at around 6pm, to lovely sun. Forgot what that felt like.

Everything looked great and I’d love to go back to see Glasgow, but for that night, I just wanted dinner and a drink. We went to MacSorley’s next door, and had mac and cheese with pulled pork, and a few gin and tonics.

Accommodation in Glasgow

We stayed at the Jury’s Inn Glasgow, which was in an incredible location, and only £40 for the night. The duvet and pillows there were just AMAZING. Click here to book a bargain at the Jury’s Inn in Glasgow.

Final day map

6 hours 31 minutes drive – probably took me longer

——

Day 8: Glasgow, and home

If you have the time, enjoy looking round Glasgow. It was wonderful weather for it, but I needed to get to my parents in the Midlands. We left, stopping at Tebay Services on the way back for breakfast, and then, home.

A great week road tripping in the Outer Hebrides!

Tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip

Driving in Staffin

– I’d definitely recommend dividing up that last day. It was just too much driving and I couldn’t relax and enjoy the morning.

– Pack some healthy food in the car as it could be hard to find when we wanted it. Barely ate a vegetable all week. 

– The roads are unbelievably well kept, especially compared to down where I live in Hampshire!

– If you want to wild camp, read my guide . 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places – and be courteous. 

– Let other drivers pass, as they might be on their way to work while you’re chugging along admiring the view. 

– Keep your petrol topped up. 

Cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip

Outer hebrides ferries.

This is what we spent on ferries for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

  • Oban to Castlebay = £100
  • Eriskay to Barra = £17.15
  • Ferry = £21.30
  • Tarbert to Uig = £44.65

= £183.10 / 2 = £91.55 each

Outer Hebrides Accommodation

This is what we spent on accommodation for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

  • Wavecrest Camping x 1 = £10 
  • Airbnb house x 2 = £50
  • Harris Hotel x 1 = £60
  • Jury’s Inn, Glasgow x 1 = £22

= £142 each

Outer Hebrides food

This is what we spent on food for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

  • We didn’t eat particularly well on this trip, and did actually eat chocolate bars for lunch on two days. Sad times. Had some lovely fish and chips at the Harris Hotel, enjoyed my mussels, and the lasagne and chips were just what I needed.

I’d estimate I spent about £150 on food for the week.

= £150 each

Outer Hebrides petrol

This is what we spent on petrol for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

Petrol was one of the biggest expenses on the trip, and from Preston to Preston again, it cost about £130 between us. 

Total cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip =   £449

More European road trips for you to try

Advice for wild camping & driving in the Outer Hebrides

Wild camping in Scotland is perfectly legal, but there are rules to keep it fun and open to all. If you’re feeling inspired by my wild camping adventure and want to give it a go in the Outer Hebrides, make sure to follow the Scotland wild camping rules.

  • You won’t stay longer than three nights in one place. 
  • You’ll leave the spot how you find it (or better!).
  • No fires. 
  • Respect animals, nature and other people. 

Top tips for wild camping 

You need to be prepared for wild camping in the Outer Hebrides. Let me take you through a few lessons learned the hard way, so you don’t make the same mistakes!

– When you choose a spot to camp, look for some sort of shelter. At least from one direction. But, don’t camp between two high points as the wind will funnel through to you. That fresh coastal air can become a howling gale very quickly!

– Getting the tent up is one thing, but getting the pegs to stay in the ground is another. So much of Scotland is either boggy, or dry – so you may have trouble with the tent pegs. I’d recommend getting some storm pegs for extra resilience.  

– Don’t camp next to a stream, or any body of water, as little brooks can easily turn into torrents. You do NOT want to wake up to a river in your tent. 

– Don’t move rocks or dig ditches to make your camping spot better. That’s not how wild camping in Scotland works. And don’t camp near people’s homes, or within view from their house – they won’t like it. 

– My tent was too high, too hard to put up, and there was too much fabric to cope with in the wind. When it comes to choosing a tent, go small, basic and as minimal as possible.

– No matter what the time of years, expect the nights to be cold and pack extra warmth for your tent and sleeping bag.

– Arrive in good time to your spot, so you have the time to pick an exact spot before nightfall. 

Top tips for driving

– Don’t worry about the islands’ road conditions. The roads were amazingly well kept and other motorists were very courteous – we didn’t have a problem. 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places and pull over if the passing place is on your side of the road. 

– Keep your petrol topped up as it could be some time between stops. 

– Download your maps to your phone before you start as you might not have phone reception for your trip. Any cafe or restaurant we asked was happy to give out their Wi-Fi code with a purchase so we were ok. 

– Spend some money locally rather than taking your own food or using supermarkets. Try the fish market for lunch in Oban, pick up some treats from the community shop in Harris, try the Hebridean Toffee and eat out to taste the local cuisine. It’s tempting to be 100% prepared, but it’s fun to sample local produce and really helps the local communities too. 

Packing list for your trip

A lightweight tent that’s super easy to pitch, and light. 

Take a good quality all season sleeping bag , and an insulated mat too. Maybe some sort of pillow ? Up to you whether you can be bothered to carry it or not. 

You need a way to get water. I was fine with two bottles kept filled and kept in the car but you can get water treatment tablets from Boots easily enough. 

Camping stove, with a gas cartridge . 

Take a phone power bank , and the midge repellant.

You might want to bring a First Aid Kit, a repair kit for the tent , and some hand sanitising gel too. Make sure your toiletries are all biodegradable. 

Some sort of picnic mat to sit out at night. If you’re in little hiking tents there’s no space to sit up. 

Road trip in the Outer Hebrides

If you want to go road tripping round the Outer Hebrides I wholeheartedly recommend it. I feel like we had a real adventure, at a time when adventures were hard to find. We barely saw a soul out and about, and it was the perfect trip to get away from it all.

If you have any questions about going on a road trip in the Outer Hebrides – let me know in the comments below.

PIN THIS OUTER HEBRIDES ROAD TRIP FOR LATER

travel guide outer hebrides

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Hi, I'm Vicky! I wrote this. You can find me on all the social media @VickyFlipFlop. I love a bit of adventure, will try anything once, and have a strong passion for the local food and drink, whatever it may be. I'm here to help inspire you to travel to places a little out of your comfort zone, or at least to explore the usual destinations in a different way. Stay, have a look around, and if you have any questions – let me know below.

Loved reading about your Western Isles adventure, planning ours now.. Regards, Kel and Carole Coles.. South Wales

Hi Vicky, Thanks for the flip flop advice.Looks like we might have to do this trip. But not wild camping,can you recommend doing this in a camper van / motor home . We are both retired and so the time of year is not an issue. Kind regards, John

Can you park a campervan on Cula Bay. I grew up in Benbecula from age 4 until 9 going back 45years now and spent every weekend with our caravan on Cula Bay through the summer. I am taking my 15 yr old daughter this Summer and your road trip has been very useful. We are taking 2 weeks traveling from Petersfield near Portsmouth so any suggestions of places to give more time

Just read your Outer Hebrides Road Trip article and found it fascinating and very useful . We are hoping to do a very similar thing in April/May, except that we shall be taking two weeks instead of your one and we shall return via Stornoway and Ullapool. Oh, and as we are both approaching the age of 80, we shall be staying in hotels and guest houses, not camping! We actually booked it first for 2020 (cancelled because of COVID), then for 2021 (ditto!), so this is our third attempt to do this trip. Like you, we shall take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay (thanks for the warning about rough seas!), then we spend two nights each on Barra, South Uist, North Uist, Harris (three nights there), Lewis west coast, and Lewis east coast (north of Stornoway). I have had three years to do my research and thought I had everything sussed, but your article gave me ten very useful facts that I had missed (places to eat, for example, and even a beach that I’d managed to miss!). Many, many thanks for your report.

Hello David, that’s so wonderful to hear. It warms my heart that I’ve helped plan your trip! That will be fantastic over two weeks. When I think back it was a little rushed with all the driving, two weeks will be perfect to be able to enjoy it all properly. Hotels are a great idea too!

Sounds like you have a fantastic itinerary and I hope you have a great time. It really is a stunning part of the world, whatever the weather. Hope you enjoy those impressive beaches!

@David Briers, Hi, did you manage to do your trip David.. My wife and I hope to do a similar trip next Spring.. Started planning today.. Would love to know how you get/got on??? Oh by the way, we are spring chickens..65 ish traveling by car and utilising hotels and guest houses hopefully. Kind regards, Kel and Carole Coles. S.Wales

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The Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides stretch for 130 miles and look out on their western side to the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on the very edge of Europe, Scotland’s Outer Hebrides offer a striking mix of landscapes. Heather-backed mountains overlook windswept golden sands, with dense areas of peat bog in between. Of the two hundred plus islands that make up the archipelago, only a handful are actually inhabited.

Lewis and Harris form the northernmost island in the Outer Hebrides. Though they are actually part of the same land mass, they are thought of as different islands and each has its own distinctive culture, traditions and heritage.

Lewis in the north is the largest island in the group and its main town of Stornoway is a busy centre of island life. Its natural harbour is a thriving fishing port.  Harris is home to the world-famous Harris Tweed, which must be made on the islands to carry the name. Across a narrow isthmus from the more mountainous North Harris lies South Harris, with its wide beaches of golden sand trimming the Atlantic. 

Find out more about Lewis, Harris and Stornoway

Further south still sit a string of small, flatter islands including North Uist , Benbecula , South Uist and Barra . Here stunning, breezy beaches are mostly bordered by a lower range of hills to the east. Uniquely, one of the beaches on Barra also doubles as a landing strip for flights from the mainland. It’s considered to be the only beach runway in the world to handle scheduled airline services.

Lying west offshore into the Atlantic, the remarkable deserted island of St Kilda is a dual World Heritage Site and a major attraction thanks to its amazing birdlife and fascinating history. The island can only be reached by day boat, which is subject to weather conditions and the permission of its owners, the National Trust for Scotland. 

The Outer Hebrides remain a heartland of Gaelic culture , with the language spoken by over half of the islanders. The Celtic roots of the islands have permeated through to the arts created in this place, with traditional crafts and Celtic music still very much at the heart of Outer Hebridean culture.

The famous Calanais Standing Stone s on the Isle of Lewis are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the islands’ rich historical legacy. Dun Carloway , which is also on Lewis, is an Iron Age broch that stands at nearly seven metres tall and is around 2,000 years old.

Religion has long played an important role on these islands, with churches and church ruins dotted across the landscapes.

The landscapes of the Outer Hebrides makes it ideal for walking and cycling while the superb Atlantic beaches draw surfers from around the globe. Fishing for salmon and trout, as well as sea angling, is also highly popular. The clear Hebridean waters produce some of the best seafood in the UK. 

Golden eagles, white-tailed eagles and corncrakes are just some of the amazing birdlife that you might spot from these islands, which are considered to be amongst the best bird-watching locations in Europe.

There are an estimated 4,000 red deer living on Lewis and Harris, so your chances of spotting one is pretty high, and the Outer Hebrides is also considered to be one of the best places in Europe to spot the European otter . Off the coast the marine life is pretty spectacular too, with porpoises, orca whales, minke whales and basking sharks all swimming off shore.

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Sandy beach with dunes near Solas, North Uist, Uist, Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UK

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Outer Hebrides

The Western Isles, or Na h-Eileanan an Iar in Gaelic – also known as the Outer Hebrides – are a 130-mile-long string of islands lying off the northwest coast of Scotland. There are 119 islands in total, of which the five main inhabited islands are Lewis and Harris (two parts of a single island, although often described as if they are separate islands), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra. The middle three (referred to collectively as ‘Uist’ by locals) are connected by road-bearing causeways.

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Experience the real Outer Hebrides. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Turquoise waters of Luskentyre Beach on the Isle of Harris.

Luskentyre is one of the biggest and most beautiful beaches in Scotland, famed for its acres of low-tide white sands and turquoise waters. A minor road…

Arnol Black House restored thatched old cottage Isle of Lewis; Shutterstock ID 49442545; Your name (First / Last): Josh Vogel; Project no. or GL code: 56530; Network activity no. or Cost Centre: Online-Design; Product or Project: 65050/7529/Josh Vogel/LP.com Destination Galleries

Arnol Blackhouse

One of Scotland’s most evocative historic buildings, the Arnol Blackhouse is not so much a museum as a perfectly preserved fragment of a lost world. Built…

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Callanish Standing Stones

The Callanish Standing Stones, 15 miles west of Stornoway on the A858 road, form one of the most complete stone circles in Britain. It is one of the most…

Butt of Lewis

Butt of Lewis

The Butt of Lewis – the extreme northern tip of the Hebrides – is windswept and rugged, with a very imposing lighthouse, pounding surf and large colonies…

Lews Castle

Lews Castle

The Baronial mansion across the harbour from Stornoway town centre was built in the 1840s for the Matheson family, then owners of Lewis; it was gifted to…

Kisimul Castle

Kisimul Castle

Castlebay takes its name from the island fortress of Kisimul Castle, first built by the MacNeil clan in the 11th century. A short boat trip (weather…

Museum nan Eilean

Museum nan Eilean

The 'Museum of the Isles' opened in 2017, occupying a modern extension built onto the side of Lews Castle. Artefacts, photos and videos celebrate the…

St Clement’s Church

St Clement’s Church

At the southernmost tip of the east coast of Harris stands the impressive 16th-century St Clement’s Church, built by Alexander MacLeod of Dunvegan between…

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OUTER HEBRIDES: TRAVEL GUIDE

Find great places to stay and things to do.

Welcome to our Outer Hebrides travel guide! Plan and book your perfect holiday with local tips, places to stay, things to do, holiday inspiration & destination info.

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The Outer Hebrides are a group of islands off the west coast of Scotland. Famous for their incredible beaches, they are a popular Scottish holiday destination. Also known as the Western Isles or Na h-Eileanan an Iar in Gaelic, this chain of inter-connected islands lies off the north-west coast of Scotland. On these unique islands, Gaelic is still spoken by the majority of the population and crofting is a big part of Hebridean life.

Where will you stay?

Seilebost, Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides © Christopher Swan

Where are the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides islands are on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and are a 130-mile-long string of 119 islands off the north-west coast of Scotland. The islands lie to the west of the area of sea called the Minch which separates them from the Isle of Skye. They are the very edge of the British Isles.

Only 14 islands are inhabited and the five main inhabited islands are:

  • Lewis and Harris (one island divided into two)

If you fancy a spot of island-hopping, you can drive over causeways from all the way from Eriskay to Berneray passing through South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist. To discover the other islands will involve a short ferry crossing.

From the northernmost headlands of the Isle of Lewis to the southern tip of Vatersay, these islands on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean offer you a holiday which you will never forget.

There can be a tendency for people to drive from Barra to the Butt of Lewis in several days, but these islands deserve much more of your time. Take it slow and explore these Hebridean islands properly.

I suggest maybe picking one or two islands and spending at least a week exploring them and the neighbouring ones. The Western Isles were made for slow travel.

Also available from Wordery

Best time to visit the Outer Hebrides

The best time to visit depends on what you want to see and do on your Outer Hebrides holiday.

If seeing the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) is your priority, winter is the best time to go. You will have more hours of darkness to enjoy the star-filled skies and, if you’re lucky, the lights.

Winter is also a less popular time of year so there will be less tourists.

May and June are good months for seeing breeding birds including the rare corncrake. It can be busy with birdwatchers in May, particularly on North Uist around the Balranald RSPB reserve.

Want to see the incredible spectacle of the wild flowers on the machair in the summer? Plan your trip for July and August. You also have more chance of seeing whales and dolphins during the summer.

In the summer you will also find cultural events including local Highland Games, Gaelic singing festivals.

As with anywhere, it can be hard to get accommodation at short notice during the summer holidays. Scotland’s school holidays run from the start of July to mid-August.

As the nights start to draw in birds either migrating south or fleeing the approaching Arctic winter.

How to get to the Outer Hebrides

Travelling to the outer hebrides by ferry.

The main crossings are run by Calmac (Caledonian MacBrayne) and are:

  • Uig, Skye – Tarbet, Harris
  • Uig, Skye – Lochmaddy, North Uist
  • Ullapool – Stornoway, Lewis

There are also the following ferry services:

  • Oban – Castlebay, Barra
  • Mallaig – Lochboisdale – Oban

Find out more on the Calmac website .

Do the seas get rough on the way to the Outer Hebrides?

Yes, it can be a bit choppy and every year some ferry crossings are cancelled due to the bad weather. But I’ve also been across on wonderfully flat calm sailings so it’s a little bit of pot luck when booking your trip in advance. You’ll probably find your crossing is somewhere in the middle. If seasickness is an issue for you, I sympathise. You might prefer to take the ferry from Skye or Ullapool which are considerably shorter journeys across The Minch. I always pack seasickness tablets just in case. We find Kwells work well for us and my parents swear by Stugeron tablets and brandy. Not at the same time though! Well, at least I don’t think so.

Travelling to the Outer Hebrides by plane

There are three airports on the Outer Hebrides:

  • Barra airport
  • Benbecula airport – serving the isles of Benbecula, North Uist, Berneray, South Uist and Eriskay
  • Stornoway airport – serving the isle of Lewis and Harris

Barra airport is the most famous and most spectacular as it’s where planes land and take off on the beautiful beach which is also mentioned in our best beaches in Scotland: Highlands and Islands . To land on the sand at Barra airport is one of the most popular things to do on the Outer Hebrides.

You can book flights or find out more information on the Loganair or Avia websites.

Travel on the Outer Hebrides

Car-free travel around the outer hebrides, public transport on the outer hebrides, cycle hire and cycling the hebridean way.

  • Stornoway Taxis and Courier Service
  • Harris Taxis

Walking and the Hebridean Way

Plan your trip.

  • If you like walking, this is a great walk book – The Outer Hebrides: 40 Coast and Country Walks (Pocket Mountains) – this book covers Barra to Lewis and includes the Isle of Lewis. Read our review of our favourite walk books .

Holiday inspiration

Explore places to stay on the outer hebrides, things to see and do on the outer hebrides, what to do on the outer hebrides.

The best tips on what to do and see and where to go from the people who know these islands best.

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Outer Hebrides

travel guide outer hebrides

  • 2 Understand
  • 3.1 By plane
  • 3.2 By boat
  • 4.1 By boat
  • 4.3 By road
  • 11 Stay safe

The Outer Hebrides are the most westerly islands of the Hebrides , west of the Scottish Highlands . They're sparsely populated with poor soil and few resources; historically they were in separate local government areas, which hindered their development and culture. But during the 20th century much of the island chain was linked by road causeways, their air and ro-ro ferry links improved, and they became the combined local government entity of the Western Isles (Gaelic: Na h-Eileanan Siar ). In 2021 their population was 26,830.

Islands [ edit ]

Map

The populated islands are linked by road into three groups. From north to south these are:

  • Lewis , Harris and Great Bernera

Lewis and Harris are the same island, but divided by mountains with (until modern times) only rough tracks across. It was easier to sail between them, as if they were divided by sea. Lewis, the northern and larger section, is mostly low-lying. Inland is infertile heath, but the east coastal strip is farmland.

  • Berneray , North Uist , Benbecula , South Uist and Eriskay

This series of islands became linked by road during the 20th century, to create one very long island. They are mostly low-lying heathland with a myriad small lochs.

  • Barra has an airport where planes land on the beach, and ferries from Eriskay to Àird Mhòr on its north coast.

Thus, these three island groups all have settlements, regular public transport to each other and to the Scottish mainland, and visitor amenities. They're quiet except at the height of summer. Around them are even smaller islands, innumerably many: the Hebrides have a fractal terrain so however closely you focus in, more islands swim into view. A few have private dwellings but most just have sheep or sea-birds. Little islands important for wild-life, sometimes visited by boat trips, include the Shiant Islands south of Lewis and the Monach Islands off North Uist.

  • St Kilda is a lonely archipelago 40 miles out in the Atlantic, with an army outpost but no permanent residents.
  • 59.122 -5.825 11 North Rona : is it Hebridean, part of the Orkneys, or a piece of the Faeroes that's somehow gone astray? Away north of the tip of Lewis, this island is even further out than St Kilda. The last resident left in 1844. Boats rarely visit, it's too far for a day trip.

Understand [ edit ]

travel guide outer hebrides

The bedrock of all these islands is gneiss laid down 3 billion years ago, very hard-wearing and impermeable. On Lewis this lies flat, so a peat bog has built up over it, and on Harris it's contorted into gnarly hills; the Uists further south are a mixture more flat than gnarly. They are all a dismal prospect to farm. People have nevertheless lived here since prehistoric times, leaving their burial cairns, "dun" fortresses, and standing stones. They got about by sea in small craft that could draw up in little coves, as did the Celts and Vikings. During the Middle Ages the Vikings transitioned into the nation of Norway, and were forced to cede the Hebrides to Scotland after their defeat at Largs in 1263. Clan chiefs feuded with each other and with Edinburgh or London authority, but their battles were elsewhere. One such battle, at Culloden in 1746, broke the feudal Clan system and brought in a capitalist economy and distant landowners looking to increase their profits. In the 19th century this lead to ruthless evictions - "Clearances" - of the tenant smallholders, and the stark empty scenery you see today was created in that era. The hillsides are haunted by ruins of abandoned farmsteads and entire villages, and the furrows of potato plots.

There was never large-scale industry here - weaving textiles such as Harris tweed remained a cottage industry, and fisheries were hampered by the distance to market. The population has therefore remained small, with no influx of mainland workers. One result is that Gaelic language and culture is preserved, and is the primary language on road signage. Everyone is fluent in English but learning a few Gaelic phrases will boost your welcome. There is religious gradient: Lewis and Harris are dourly Protestant and sabbatarian, so almost nothing stirs on a Sunday. Churches. Barra and South Uist are Catholic, and you may find shops open after midday on a Sunday. Benbecula is in between. Other faiths are only found in penny numbers.

Summer is short, May to mid Sept, with long midge-ridden days. The islands are quiet the rest of the year and some amenities shut down, but the flights and ferries run year-round, as they're essential to Hebridean life.

Get in [ edit ]

travel guide outer hebrides

By plane [ edit ]

There are three airports in the Outer Hebrides, so each populated island group is served. Loganair operates all the flights.

  • Stornoway ( SYY  IATA ) on Lewis is the best connected, with direct flights from Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Inverness on the mainland, and from Benbecula.
  • Benbecula ( SYY  IATA ) has flights from Glasgow and Stornoway.
  • Barra ( BRR  IATA ) only has flights from Glasgow, which land on the beach.

By boat [ edit ]

Calmac car ferries sail throughout the Hebrides. Buses run from Glasgow to the mainland ferry ports, and trains run to Oban and Mallaig. The routes are:

  • Ullapool to Stornoway on Lewis two daily, 2 hr 30 min (Nov-Mar only one on Sunday).
  • Uig on Skye to Tarbert on Harris one or two daily, 1 hr 40 min (Nov-Mar some days in just one direction).
  • Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy on North Uist one or two daily, 1 hr 45 min (Nov-Mar some days in just one direction).
  • Oban to Castlebay on Barra daily, 5 hours (Nov-Mar not Th or Su).
  • Mallaig to Lochboisdale on South Uist daily, 3 hours 30 mins (Nov-Mar not Tu or Th, and on some days sailing from Oban instead of Mallaig).

See below for the ferries between the three island groups.

Get around [ edit ]

Calmac ferries cross between the island groups:

  • Berneray north tip of the Uists to Leverburgh on Harris 3 or 4 daily, one hour.
  • Eriskay south tip of the Uists to Barra 4-5 daily, 40 min.

By bus [ edit ]

travel guide outer hebrides

Buses reach all corners but are sparse M-Sa with nothing on a Sunday.

A linked bus and ferry service runs the length of the Outer Hebrides through Barra, the Uists and Harris and across Lewis to Stornoway, and M-Sa it's possible to go the whole way in one day. There are half-a-dozen services part-route (eg Lewis to Harris), but for the full route you need to set off from Castlebay Barra at 06:20, Lochboisedale South Uist at 09:00, Benbecula at 11:10, Lochmaddy North Uist at 11:30 and Tarbert Harris at 16:20, to reach Stornoway by 17:30. Going south, you leave Stornoway 09:30 to reach Tarbert at 10:45, Lochmaddy at 13:45, Benbecula at 14:25, Lochboisdale at 15:25 and reach Castlebay at 17:35.

By road [ edit ]

Some visitors bring their own car, but it's a long drive to reach the mainland ferry ports. Even from Glasgow or Edinburgh, you need an overnight stop before joining the ferry. You'll appreciate having a car to get around, as sights and amenities are scattered, and the car gets you out of the wind, rain and midges.

The three airports have car hire, which you should book as the rental fleets are small. They allow you to drive to another of these islands and may allow drop off, but you may not take a rental car to the mainland. Keep an eye on the fuel gauge, distances may be greater than you expect and filling stations are sparse.

The island roads are mostly single track with passing places and are in good repair, since they're not pounded by heavy traffic. They're double track on the inter-island causeways, which are toll-free and passable in all but the wildest Atlantic weather.

The roads are pleasant to cycle, if you're prepared for an occasional drenching. With sight-seeing it takes a week to cycle from Barra to Stornoway.

See [ edit ]

travel guide outer hebrides

  • Castles: Lews Castle in Stornoway is an Edwardian mansion, now a museum and event space.
  • Prehistoric sites abound, as the lack of population and mainland farming methods saved them from plough and pickaxe.

travel guide outer hebrides

  • Blackhouses were traditional Hebridean dwellings, with the cattle kept at one end, and a fug of peat smoke as they had no chimney.
  • Natural world: the islands are good places for birdwatching , with a RSPB reserve on North Uist, and many migrant and resident species. St Kilda is the stand-out if you can reach it.
  • Local culture: and note the museums above.

Do [ edit ]

  • Climb: the hills are of no great height, but even a short climb opens out a great view. Clisham on Harris is the highest at 799 m / 2621 ft.
  • Golf: there are courses on South Uist , Benbecula , Harris and Stornoway .
  • Sing to the seals: "Hoiran, oiran, oiran, oiro..." is a traditional air sung to the seals as they bask upon the rocks. Jean Redpath (1937-2014) was one singer who reported success in charming them out of the water, on Barra. But given what the blubbery creatures do every day of their lives, it's equivalent to a song to make rats scurry off or seagulls decorate your windscreen.
  • Events are Hebcelt music festival at Stornoway in July, North Uist Highland Games in July, Eilean Dorcha music festival on Benbecula in July, and the MacNeil biennial clan gathering on Barra in August of even-numbered years.

Buy [ edit ]

travel guide outer hebrides

  • Stornoway is the only town with a range of shops comparable to a mainland town, with two supermarkets, a chemist, hardware store, book shop and clothes shops.
  • Elsewhere in the islands there are several Co-ops, and independent stores selling groceries along with clothes or hardware. These are small but manage to carry a varied stock.
  • Newspapers arrive on the islands by ferry and so only become available by afternoon.
  • There are banks or ATMs in Stornoway, Tarbert, Lochmaddy on North Uist, Balivanich on Benbecula, Lochboisdale on South Uist and Castlebay on Barra. A Royal Bank of Scotland mobile bank in a van transits the Uists on Tuesday and Lewis and Harris on Thursday.

Eat [ edit ]

  • There are several daytime cafes, but few places for an evening meal outside Stornoway, try the hotels. You do well to book any time of year: they probably have plenty of vacant tables, but they can't subsist on walk-ins and will only buy ingredients and set on staff if they know customers are coming.
  • Local seafood is excellent, try the shellfish such as scallops.
  • Stornoway is famous for its black pudding, a blood sausage, and you are likely to find this on breakfast menus.
  • There are local bakeries in Stornoway and on Benbecula.

Drink [ edit ]

  • There are several pubs in Stornoway but few elsewhere, try the hotel bars. They often have live music on Friday and Saturday nights, which on sabbatarian Lewis and Harris will cease promptly by midnight on Saturday.
  • Abhainn Dearg Distillery in northwest Lewis makes whisky and Isle of Harris Distillery in Tarbert makes gin and whisky. North Uist Distillery is actually on Benbecula: it makes gin, and is expected to launch its whisky in 2023.

Sleep [ edit ]

travel guide outer hebrides

  • Camping is widely available, but think twice about it if you react badly to midge bites.
  • Hostels are in several villages and in some wild strange places, such as Rhenigidale on Harris.
  • Most settlements have B&B, and self-catering cottages are dotted all over.
  • There are small hotels especially in Stornoway and Tarbert. The grandest splurge is at Amhuinnsuidhe Castle near Tarbert.

Stay safe [ edit ]

The main hazards are natural: Lewis is on the same latitude as the north of Labrador. The sea is cold and the breeze brings in sharp showers. You need stout footwear for the boggy island footpaths. The midges are a confounded nuisance in summer.

Pack enough of your usual medications and some extra in case of delay to your return ferry or flight.

Island folk are honest but that can't be said of all the visitors, so take usual care of valuables.

Go next [ edit ]

  • You might cross Skye going to and from the Western Isles, taking the ferry from Uig. Skye's scenery is spectacular especially on Trotternish peninsula but it will feel very touristy and crowded after the Uists.
  • Reaching the other Inner Hebrides mostly involves a long backtrack via the mainland. But if from Skye you take the ferry to Mallaig , this is the departure point for the Small Isles of Rhum, Canna, Muck and Eigg. Driving south from Mallaig across Ardnamurchan brings you to Mull .
  • Crossing from Stornoway to Ullapool brings you to Wester Ross: go north along the wave-dashed coast towards Thurso , where you can cross to the Orkney Islands .

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Bradt Guides

Outer Hebrides

The Western Isles of Scotland from Lewis to Barra

Outer Hebrides travel guide – Holiday tips and expert advice for Lewis, Harris, St Kilda, Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and Vatersay, plus language and wildlife. Also covers beaches, culture, Lewis Chessmen, Standing Stones of Callanish, food, walking, golden eagles, hen harriers, seals, red deer and Whisky Galore!

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About this book

This new, thoroughly updated second edition of Bradt’s Outer Hebrides: The Western Isles of Scotland, from Lewis to Barra by experienced writer and journalist Mark Rowe is the only full-size guide to focus solely on the islands of Lewis, Harris, St Kilda, Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and Vatersay. Masses of background information is included, from geography and geology to art and architecture, with significant coverage of wildlife, too, as well as all the practical details you could need: when to visit, suggested itineraries, public holidays and festivals, local culture, plus accommodation and where to eat and drink. Walkers, birdwatchers, wildlife photographers, beach lovers and genealogists are all catered for, and this is an ideal guide for those who travel simply with curious minds to discover far-flung places of great cultural, historical and wildlife interest. The Outer Hebrides is an archipelago of 14 inhabited islands and more than 50 others that are free of human footprint. Huge variations in landscape are found across the islands, from Lewisian gneiss, which dates back almost three billion years, to rugged Harris with its magnificent sands running down its western flanks and the windswept, undulating flatness and jagged sea lochs of the Uists. This is a land where Gaelic is increasingly spoken and ancient monuments abound, where stunning seabird colonies and birds of prey can be watched, and where the grassy coastal zones known as the machair are transformed into glorious carpets of wildflowers in late spring and summer. Whether visiting the Standing Stones of Callanish, the Uig peninsula, Barra’s Castlebay, or historic St Kilda, or if you just want to experience the romance of the Sound of Harris, one of the most beautiful ferry journeys in the world, Bradt’s Outer Hebrides: The Western Isles of Scotland, from Lewis to Barra has all the information you need.

About the Author

Mark Rowe is an environmental and outdoors journalist and writer who first visited the Outer Hebrides in 1990 when using up the last few days of an Inter-Rail ticket. He has been in love with the islands ever since, and visited every year for the past decade. He has written about family holidays on the Outer Hebrides for National Geographic Traveller, and about food and drink on the islands for several magazines. His perfect Hebridean day would involve buying smoked salmon from Loch Carnan on South Uist, taking the ferry across the Sound of Harris to Leverburgh, and having a picnic below Horgabost campsite overlooking Luskentyre on South Harris.

‘This guide is certainly comprehensive, has been compiled by an enthusiast and makes an independent judgement on what to see and do, where to eat and stay and on that all important factor, getting around. Here’s a book for car-pocket, rucksack or cycle-pannier.’ Scottish Islands Explorer

‘A good all-round guide’ Wanderlust Travel Magazine

Additional Information

Introduction PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION Chapter 1 Background Information Geography, Climate, Natural history, History, Archaeology, Government and politics, Economy, People, Language, Religion, Culture Chapter 2 Practical Information When to visit, Highlights, Suggested itineraries, Tour operators and guides, Tourist information, Red tape, Consulates and embassies, Getting there and away, Health, Safety, Women travellers, Travelling with a disability, Travelling with children, LGBT+ travellers, What to take, Money and budgeting, Getting around, Accommodation, Eating and drinking, Festivals and events, Shopping, Arts and entertainment, Outdoor activities, Media and communications, Cultural etiquette, Travelling positively

PART TWO THE GUIDE Chapter 3 Lewis (Leòdhais) Highlights, History, Getting there and away, Getting around, Tourist information, Festivals and events, Tour operators and activities, Stornoway (Steòrnabhagh), Around Stornoway Chapter 4 Harris (Na Hearadh) Highlights, History, Getting there and away, Getting around, Tourist information, Festivals and events, Shopping, Sports and activities, Other practicalties, North Harris (Ceann a Tuath na Hearadh), Tarbert (An Tairbeart), Scalpay (Sgalpaigh), South Harris (Ceann a Deas na Hearadh) Chapter 5 St Kilda History, Getting there and away, Where to stay, Shopping, What to see and do Chapter 6 Berneray (Beàrnaraigh) and North Uist (Uibhist a Tuath) Berneray (Beàrnaraigh), North Uist (Uibhist a Tuath) Chapter 7 Benbecula (Beinn na Faoghla) Highlights, History, Getting there and away, Getting around, Tourist information, Festivals and events, Where to stay, Where to eat and drink, Shopping, Activities, Other practicalities, What to see and do Chapter 8 South Uist (Uibhist a Deas) and Eriskay (Eirisgeidh) South Uist (Uibhist a Deas), Eriskay (Eirisgeidh) Chapter 9 Barra (Bharraigh) and Vatersay (Bhatarsaigh) Barra (Bharraigh), Vatersay (Bhatarsaigh), Sandray, Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray Appendix 1 Language Appendix 2 Further Reading Index

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WHAT TO DO ON UIST

A group of people taking a dip in the sea at a wide, flat beach on North Uist

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BEST THINGS TO DO ON UIST

THE OUTER HEBRIDES

In this guide we share the best things to do on Uist, along with extensive information on where to stay, the best places to eat and drink, how to get to the islands, and how to get around when you’re there. We also offer a detailed map and practical travel tips to help your trip run smoothly.

A long string of islands, Uist lies at the centre of the group that makes up the Outer Hebrides, Scotland’s Western Isles. Linked by causeways, this island chain stretches from Eriskay in the south to Berneray in the north, via South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, and North Uist, with Uist serving as the collective name.

The western, Atlantic facing half of Uist is typically flat, with beautiful white sand beaches and extensive stretches of fertile machair. The eastern half is significantly hillier, with countless lochs, inlets, and skerries punctuating a jagged coastline.

With fantastic scenery, nature walks of varying lengths and difficulties, mouthwatering local food and drink, and exciting boat trips to uninhabited islands, there’s a lot to keep you busy. So whether you’re planning to visit Uist (pronounced yoo – ist) as part of an Outer Hebrides island hopping adventure which includes Barra , Harris and Lewis , or as a trip all on its own, be sure to allow at least a few days to properly explore.

WATCH OUR UIST FILM

Watch our instagram stories from the outer hebrides.

Part One | Part Two | Part Three

WHAT TO SEE AND DO ON UIST

Best beaches on uist.

BERNERAY WEST BEACH CLACHAN SANDS HOSTA BEACH BALRANALD BEACH BALESHARE BEACH PRINCE’S BEACH

BEST SHORT WALKS ON UIST

LOCH EYNORT ARINABAN WOODLAND WALK LOCH DRUIDIBEG & LOCH SKIPPORT WALKS SCOLPAIG COASTLINE AND PLUNGE POOL

BEST LONGER WALKS ON UIST

VALLAY TIDAL ISLAND UDAL PENINSULA BALRANALD NATURE RESERVE HILLWALKING ON UIST

UIST CULTURE AND CRAFTS

NORTH UIST DISTILLERY HOWMORE COTTAGES & RUINS TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH MUSEUM LONG ISLAND RETREATS SHORELINE STONEWARE UIST WOOL

BEST DAY TRIPS FROM UIST

MINGULAY DAY TRIP ST KILDA DAY TRIP LADY ANNE BOAT TRIP

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO UIST

UIST MAP TRAVEL TIPS WHERE TO EAT & DRINK WHERE TO STAY ON UIST HOW TO GET TO UIST HOW TO GET AROUND

LOCH EYNORT ARINABAN WOODLAND WALK

LOCH DRUIDIBEG & LOCH SKIPPORT WALKS

SCOLPAIG COASTLINE AND PLUNGE POOL

NORTH UIST DISTILLERY HOWMORE COTTAGES & RUINS TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH MUSEUM & ARTS CENTRE LONG ISLAND RETREATS SHORELINE STONEWARE UIST WOOL

*Some of the links in this post are affiliate links – if you purchase a product or service via these links, we may earn a small commission  at no extra cost to you . This helps offset the cost of running this blog and keeps us travelling so that we can continue to produce great content for you. We greatly appreciate your support!*

We have created a detailed Uist map to accompany this guide, which can be used online or offline to navigate during your trip and quickly pinpoint all of the places mentioned here. This includes the key sights outlined in our ‘Best Beaches’ and ‘Uist Culture and Crafts’ sections, along with all of the walking routes, our recommended food stops, accommodation, and practical info such as supermarkets, petrol stations, and public toilets. It is the perfect companion to this written guide. 

There is no shortage of attractive beaches on Uist, but a few favourites stand out above all others. From north to south, these are our top picks for the best beaches on Uist. Note that these are all easily accessible from nearby car parks. Some other great beaches which require a bit more effort to get to are included in our Best Longer Walks section.

BERNERAY WEST BEACH // BERNERAY

Berneray west beach //.

Stretching along the entire west coast of Berneray, this beauty has been voted one of Europe’s top beaches for 2022 by Lonely Planet . With 5 km of brilliant white sand it’s ideal for a long windswept walk, or equally great for a secluded picnic in the tall, machair-covered dunes behind. There are wonderful views across to the small island of Pabbay and the hills of Harris beyond.

CLACHAN SANDS // NORTH UIST

Clachan sands //.

Situated at the top of North Uist, Clachan Sands is a gorgeous white sand beach stretching 4km or so, with an informal grassy camping area dividing the beach in two. Traigh Hornais gently curves around to the southwest, with Traigh Lingeigh arcing northeast. Backed by extensive machair, it’s a spectacular setting with views across to the Udal Peninsula and small island of Boreray.

HOSTA BEACH // NORTH UIST

Hosta beach //.

This gem of a beach (Traigh Stir in Gaelic) is the top surf beach on Uist, but is also a beautiful spot for non-surfers too. Backed by machair-covered dunes and tucked between two small rocky headlands, Hosta feels both secluded and cosy. It also makes a great wild camp spot.

Hosta Beach, a curve of golden/white sand lying between two small rocky headlands on North Uist, popular with surfers but great too for a stroll or for camping in the grassy dunes behind the beach, making it one of the best beaches on Uist

Hosta Beach lies between two small headlands, popular with surfers but great too for a stroll or for camping in the dunes

Hosta Beach, a curve of golden/white sand lying between two small rocky headlands on North Uist, popular with surfers but great too for a stroll or for camping in the grassy dunes behind the beach, making it one of the best beaches on Uist

Hosta Beach lies between two small headlands, popular with surfers but great too for a quiet stroll or for camping in the dunes

BALRANALD BEACH // NORTH UIST

Balranald beach.

NORTH UIST //

The curve of white sand at Balranald is a beautiful spot for a stroll, dip, or picnic, where you can enjoy the fresh seafood delights on offer at the nearby Dunes Cabin. It’s an all-round favourite, attracting everyone from wildlife lovers (thanks to its location on an RSPB Nature Reserve) to families holidaying at the nearby campsite.

BALESHARE BEACH // NORTH UIST

Baleshare beach //.

Baleshare is a small island connected to North Uist by causeway, which makes for an especially scenic drive to the informal parking area on the edge of a field. The beach itself is a long stretch of flat sand sloping almost imperceptibly into the sea, and is another great spot for a dip. Rocky sections punctuate the beach, creating interesting features that change in appearance between low and high tide. Being a bit further from the road than some of the other best beaches on Uist, Baleshare is often quiet, and at nearly 6 km long it’s easy to find a private spot for yourself.

Two swimmers walk across flat sand after emerging from the shallow aqua sea in the evening at Baleshare Beach, one of the best beaches on Uist

The water at Baleshare Beach stays shallow for some distance, making it a great spot for a calm and relaxing dip

Two swimmers walk across flat sand after emerging from the shallow aqua sea in the evening at Baleshare Beach, one of the best beaches on Uist

PRINCE’S BEACH // ERISKAY

Prince’s beach //.

Situated on the west coast of Eriskay, Prince’s Beach (so called after Bonnie Prince Charlie who landed here in 1745) is a picturesque stretch of white sand backed by grass and sea bindweed. It’s generally a sheltered spot and is great for swimming, although as with every beach on Uist, the water is cold! The ferry terminal for Barra is just south of the beach, making this a great spot to stop off on your way to or from the southernmost islands of the Outer Hebrides.

Prince's Beach on Eriskay and one of the best beaches on Uist, a curve of white sand in a sheltered bay with grass and sea bindweed covering the low hills behind

Prince’s Beach, close to the ferry terminal on Eriskay, is generally a sheltered spot that’s good for a swim

Prince's Beach on Eriskay and one of the best beaches on Uist, a curve of white sand in a sheltered bay with grass and sea bindweed covering the low hills behind

Prince’s Beach, close to the ferry terminal on Eriskay, is generally a sheltered spot that’s good for a swim 

SHORT WALKS ON UIST

Often the best way to get out and explore a place is on foot, and Uist has endless opportunities to do just that. These are a few of our favourite short walks, all 1.5 hours or less.

LOCH EYNORT ARINABAN WOODLAND // SOUTH UIST

Loch eynort arinaban woodland walk //.

Heading east off the main road running south to north through Uist leads you through a beautiful landscape of hills and lochs. The Arinaban Woodland walk lies at the end of the North Locheynort road, a fantastic out-and-back trail along the lochside, or a loop around the hillside. The walk starts from a small parking area at the end of the road. Nearby, a hand painted map of the route shows the various trails through Croft No.8, as well as the location of numerous benches and tables (perfect for a picnic!).

Whichever trail you decide to take, the initial section follows a narrow footpath through trees. It then emerges on an open hillside with wonderful views over the sea loch. You can turn right for a side trip down to a small bay, keep straight to carry on along the lochside, or turn left to loop around the eastern slopes of Beinn Bheag Dheas. We’ve marked a possible 5 km route on our map . It can be a bit muddy in places, so proper footwear is recommended.

A view of Loch Eynort from the west, with the trail running along the hillside above the loch, one of the best short walks on Uist

A view of Loch Eynort from the west, with the trail running along the hillside above the loch

A view of Loch Eynort from the west, with the trail running along the hillside above the loch, one of the best short walks on Uist

LOCH DRUIDIBEG AND LOCH SKIPPORT // SOUTH UIST

Loch druidibeg and loch skipport walks //.

Another scenic side trip off the main north-south road on Uist, the road to Loch Skipport (Loch Sgioport) leads to a couple of great short walks with the opportunity to spot birds of prey and wild ponies.

LOCH DRUIDIBEG

The first recommended walk is around Loch Druidibeg , a beautiful inland loch surrounded by heather moorland and some of the highest hills on Uist. Park at the designated car park about 2 km along the road, location number 10 of the Outer Hebrides Bird of Prey Trail .

Loch Druidibeg on a sunny afternoon on South Uist, with Beinn na Laire and Hecla risng immediately behind, Beinn Choradail just visible, and Beinn Mhór on the far right

Loch Druidibeg, with Beinn na Laire and Hecla risng immediately behind, Beinn Choradail just visible, and Beinn Mhór on the far right

Loch Druidibeg on South Uist, with Beinn na Laire and Hecla the two peaks on the ridge behind

Loch Druidibeg, with Beinn na Laire and Hecla the two peaks on the ridge behind

A series of footpaths, boardwalks, and bridges lead southwest across moorland and strips of land with the loch either side. This area is a breeding ground for short-eared owl, hen harrier, and merlin, with possible sightings of golden eagles and white-tailed eagles too.

The trail, which is part of the much longer Hebridean Way , continues for about 3 km before reaching the main road, with some boggy sections. Head out and back the same way, or if you fancy a longer walk you can carry on to the machair on the western side of the island and loop back to the car park via the road ( follow the trail description and route map outlined here ).

LOCH SKIPPORT

Continuing down the road and taking the right fork as you near the end will lead you to a small parking area by Loch Skipport , another good eagle-spotting location. There’s also a very high chance of bumping into some shetland ponies that roam wild around here, a 50+ strong herd belonging to the nearby crofting family at Long Island Retreats .

Carrying on down the potholed track beyond the parking area on foot, you’ll come to an old wooden jetty, with lovely views across the sea loch. The Bird of Prey Trail follows a track through the hills to the south of the parking area, up to some old shielings and along the coast for about 1 km.

A person in a long mustard coloured coat and black hat looking out towards the sea from a viewpoint above Loch Skipport on South Uist, with the Isle of Skye seen faintly on the horizon

Looking out towards the sea from a viewpoint above Loch Skipport, with the Isle of Skye seen faintly on the horizon

A person in a long mustard coloured coat and black hat looking out towards the sea from a viewpoint above Loch Skipport on South Uist, with the Isle of Skye seen faintly on the horizon

SCOLPAIG PLUNGE POOL AND COASTLINE // NORTH UIST

Scolpaig plunge pool and rocky coastline //.

On the west coast of North Uist, there is a dramatic rocky coastline to the south of Scolpaig which includes a natural plunge pool overlooking the sea. To reach it, park on the grassy verge beside the main road, just beyond a cross on the hillside to the left (if approaching from the south) and before the track on the left leading to a large house with sculpted edges (see our map for the exact location).

A natural plunge pool (bottom left third in picture) formed in the rocky coastline near Scolpaig on North Uist

The plunge pool (bottom left third in picture) and the rocky coastline near Scolpaig

A natural plunge pool (bottom left third in picture) formed in the rocky coastline near Scolpaig on North Uist

The plunge pool on the coast near Scolpaig, accessed from above via the rocky chute

Go through the gate, then head west across the open hillside. When you reach the coast, turn left and head south just a little, looking out for a rocky chute with the plunge pool at the bottom. You can climb down the rocks to get close to the pool, although swimming in it isn’t always possible due to the buildup of algae. The location is spectacular, well worth the 10 minute walk from the road!

LONGER WALKS ON UIST

There are plenty of beautiful beaches and interesting sights on Uist which require a longer journey on foot to best explore. These are a few of our recommended longer walks, between about 1.5 and 3 hours in length.

VALLAY TIDAL ISLAND // NORTH UIST

Vallay tidal island //.

The uninhabited tidal island of Vallay (Bhalaigh) is home to the enigmatic ruins of an enormous house built by Erskine Beveridge, a wealthy linen industrialist from Fife, and has a number of beautiful beaches on its northern shores. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the island, walking across an open expanse of sand and mud flats exposed at low tide.

A person walks across an open expanse of wet sand at low tide to reach the formerly inhabited Vallay Island on Uist

It takes about 30 minutes to walk across an open expanse of sand at low tide to reach Vallay Island

A person walks across an open expanse of wet sand at low tide to reach the formerly inhabited Vallay Island on Uist

Approaching the island, the big house looms on the left, with the ruins of smaller farmhouse buildings on the right. The house is unlike any other on Uist, a baronial style mansion with dozens of rooms spread over two floors. The prominent crow-stepped gables are perhaps a nod to Beveridge’s Fife roots, where this style of architecture is common in historic buildings. Built around 1902, the house has been uninhabited since 1944 when Erskine’s son, George, drowned while crossing between North Uist and Vallay by boat. The harsh Atlantic weather has since taken its toll, and with the roof and much of the interior having collapsed, only the shell remains.

The ruined shell of a two storey mansion, once belonging to Erskine Beveridge, on the tidal island of Vallay which is reachable on foot from North Uist at low tide

Only the shell remains of Erskine Beveridge’s grand house

The ruined shell of a two storey mansion, once belonging to Erskine Beveridge, on the tidal island of Vallay which is reachable on foot from North Uist at low tide

Only the shell remains of Beveridge’s grand house

Passing by the house and continuing to the northern side of the island will lead you to some beautiful beaches. Curves of white sand framed by dark coloured rocks spread out to the west and east, peaceful spots although with some very vocal oystercatchers. The hills of Harris rise to the northeast and the vast expanse of the Atlantic stretches off to the west.

Unless you plan on camping overnight, be sure to head back before the tide starts coming in, which can happen quite fast. It’s best to allow around 2 – 2.5 hours for the return trip, aiming to cross about two hours before low tide . There is space for a few cars to park at the start of the walk, in the small township of Cladach Vallay (see our map for the exact location and walking route).

Beautiful and quiet white sand beaches curving round the northern side of Vallay, a tidal island adjacent to North Uist

Beautiful and quiet beaches on the northern side of Vallay

Beautiful and quiet white sand beaches curving round the northern side of Vallay, a tidal island adjacent to North Uist

Beautiful beaches on the northern side of Vallay

UDAL PENINSULA // NORTH UIST

Udal peninsula //.

A loop around the Udal Peninsula takes in gorgeous beaches as well as archaeological sites dating back to Neolithic times. There is a fantastic audio walking tour you can follow which tells you all about the history and wildlife of the peninsula, narrated by members of the local community. The tour is available on the izi.travel app ( iOS / Android ). Download the app and search for North Uist to find it.

Park at the end of the road at Grenitote, where a track leads along the wide sandy bay of Traigh Ear towards the headland. Here you’ll find the 18th century cemetery of the MacLeans of Boreray, with the island itself lying just across the water. Crossing to the western side of the peninsula you’ll find Traigh Udal, a scenic curve of white sand beach. Heading south you’ll reach the impressive remains of a 1500 – 2000 year old roundhouse, excavated in the late 20th century. Beyond here lies the beautiful expanse of Traigh Iar, sweeping southwest towards Vallay. Take a walk along the beach, before looping back to the start.

Allow around 3 hours for the walk, which is 10 km or so. You can view and download the route on our map , and read about and/or listen to the history and significance of the peninsula on the izi website .

BALRANALD NATURE RESERVE // NORTH UIST

Balranald reserve //.

Balranald, as mentioned in our best beaches on Uist section, is an RSPB Nature Reserve. For those with an interest in birds and wildlife it’s well worth exploring beyond the beach itself. There is a waymarked trail leading around the rocky headland south of the beach, a 6 km loop starting from the parking area by the visitor centre.

The curving white sand beach at Balranald on North Uist, behind which lie grassy dunes and the RSPB Nature Trail

The trail at the Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve leads around the southern end of the beach to a rocky headland

The curving white sand beach at Balranald on North Uist, behind which lie grassy dunes and the RSPB Nature Trail

The Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve trail leads around the southern end of the beach to a rocky headland

Balranald is a haven for wildlife, including birds of prey, otters, and the rare corncrake. The walk, which takes around 1.5 hours, takes in a variety of landscapes and terrain, including fertile machair, sand dunes, rocky coastline, marshes, lochs, and ocean habitats. The highlights change throughout the seasons, and before setting off it’s well worth popping into the visitor centre, housed in a small whitewashed cottage. Here you’ll find a wealth of information as well as a list of recent wildlife sightings.

There is a map of the route inside the visitor centre, and you can view and download it on our map too. Public toilets are also available at the visitor centre.

HILLWALKING ON UIST

While the hills on the eastern half of Uist may not be overly high in comparison to those on mainland Scotland, they are an impressive sight looming over this otherwise low-lying landscape. If you’re looking for a somewhat challenging day hike on pathless terrain, tackling one of the island’s tallest peaks could be for you.

Eaval (Eabhal) is the highest in North Uist at 347 m, its prominent peak visible from all over the island. Count on the 11 km return hike taking about 5.5 hours. Note that the stepping stones over the outflow of water from Loch Obasaraigh (less than 1 km from the start of the walk) can be covered at high tide, so it’s best to plan your walk accordingly. You can read a full trail description on WalkHighlands .

Eaval (Eabhal), the highest peak on North Uist, rising above the surrounding low-lying landscape dotted with a few white houses

Eaval (Eabhal), the highest peak on North Uist, rising above the surrounding low-lying landscape to a height of 347 m

Eaval (Eabhal), the highest peak on North Uist, rising above the surrounding low-lying landscape dotted with a few white houses

Eaval, the highest peak on North Uist, rising above the surrounding low-lying landscape to a height of 347 m

Beinn Mhór is South Uist’s highest peak at 620 m, offering fantastic views over the islands from the summit (weather permitting of course!). You can start the hike from Loch Eynort (the same spot as the Arinaban Woodland walk), approaching from the south, however approaching from the north is considered easier. This is the route outlined on WalkHighlands , and the one we would suggest following. Allow around 7 hours for the 12.5 km return hike, and longer if you plan to take in Hecla too, as per the WH route description.

SEE MORE FROM SCOTLAND

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Sailing The Hebrides On Tall Ship Bessie Ellen

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Best Things To Do On Lewis And Harris

A person in a long mustard coloured coat and black hat looking out towards the sea from a viewpoint above Loch Skipport on South Uist, with the Isle of Skye seen faintly on the horizon

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A yacht in the bay at Vatersay with pastel sunset skies and the silhouette of the Isle of Rum in the background

Best Things To Do On Barra And Vatersay

One of the two famous stacks of St Kilda, Stac Lee rises from the sea as birds swarm around and the tourist boat MV Cuma offloads kayakers below

How To Visit St Kilda, Scotland

A walker on the old military road among the dramatic mountain scenery of the Lairigmor, a real highlight of the West Highland Way

West Highland Way Route Sections: A Stage-By-Stage Guide

A view of Buachaille Etive Mor on the West Highland Way

West Highland Way: The Ultimate Guide

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Camping The West Highland Way

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West Highland Way Accommodation Guide

A person stands on the wide expanse of Tresness Beach on Sanday

What To Do On Sanday, Orkney

An impressive view of the Old Man of Hoy from the south, showing the towering stack detatched from the rugged red cliffs of the island's west coast

What To Do On Hoy, Orkney

Standing stones set in a large circle, known as the Ring of Brodgar, one of Orkney's most iconic sites and Scotland's largest stone circle

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A person walks along the unspoiled beach of the Tresness Peninsula on Sanday

The Best North Coast 500 Side Trips, Island Add-ons & Extended Itineraries

Two surfers walk across the sand in the afternoon sun at Ceannabeinne Beach, not far from Durness on the North Coast 500 route.

15 Outstanding North Coast 500 Highlights

An abandoned boat wreck on the Isle of Mull.

9 Things To Do On The Isle Of Mull

Peanmeanach Bothy on the Ardnish Peninsula in February

The Scottish Bothy: An Introduction

Culross: Scotland's Best Preserved 17th century town

Culross: Scotland’s Best Preserved 17th Century Town

travel guide outer hebrides

A Local’s Ultimate Glasgow Guide

For an insight into Uist culture and the chance to pick up some quality local craftware and products, don’t miss the following interesting spots and experiences.

NORTH UIST DISTILLERY // NUNTON STEADINGS, BENBECULA

North uist distillery //.

NUNTON STEADINGS, BENBECULA

North Uist Distillery is one of the most exciting startups on Uist, the island’s first (legal) distillery currently producing excellent craft gin, with whisky coming in the future. Operating out of the 18th century Nunton Steadings, the chance to see inside this historic building is reason enough to pop by, but of course we’d highly recommend a gin tasting too.

The 18th century Nunton Steadings, long and low whitewashed buildings with traditional slate roofs, home to North Uist Distillery

The 18th century Nunton Steadings, home to North Uist Distillery

The 18th century Nunton Steadings, long and low whitewashed buildings with traditional slate roofs, home to North Uist Distillery

Having grown up on North Uist and, like many of the island’s younger population, moved to the mainland and beyond after school, co-founders Kate and Jonny returned to their island home in 2017 to set up the distillery and carve out a new life for themselves. Since then their small business has continued to grow, employing a dozen or so people locally and becoming an integral part of the community, not to mention winning a few gin awards along the way! In a region that is experiencing higher-than-average rates of population decline it’s great to see a vibrant new business like this opening up, providing job opportunities locally as well as being a fantastic addition to the Eat Drink Hebrides Trail .

The current North Uist Distillery line up includes their classic Downpour Scottish Dry Gin, along with a Pink Grapefruit Gin, Sloe & Bramble Gin, Coast & Croft, and a ready-to-drink Oak Aged Negroni. You can sample them all during a tasting session (£17.50 per person, book here ) which also includes a tour of the historic Nunton Steadings building. Or, grab a gin of your choice from the on-site bar and while away the afternoon in a courtyard deckchair. For gifts and take-home bottles, the shop is well stocked with T-shirts, totes, miniatures, and more.

A stylishly wrapped botlle of Downpour Oak-Aged Negroni sat in the sand and ready to be enjoyed on a UIst beach

A stylishly wrapped bottle of Downpour Oak-Aged Negroni ready to be enjoyed on a beach in the Outer Hebrides

A botlle of Downpour Oak-Aged Negroni sat in the sand and ready to be enjoyed on a UIst beach

A bottle of Downpour Oak-Aged Negroni ready to be enjoyed on a beach in the Outer Hebrides

HOWMORE // SOUTH UIST

Howmore is home to a number of traditional thatched cottages, as well as the ruins of various chapels dating from around 1200 AD. It’s a great spot for a quick wander, but if you fancy spending longer it’s also possible to stay at the atmospheric Howmore Hostel .

This whitewashed, thatched-roofed beauty is popular with those walking or cycling The Hebridean Way , providing basic accommodation in a beautiful setting. You can explore the historic ruins of the Teampull Mor Complex, a stone’s throw from the hostel, then head to the beach just a few hundred metres away, which stretches along the coast for miles.

The whitewashed, thatch-roofed traditional cottage that is the Howmore Hostel on South Uist

The whitewashed, thatch-roofed Howmore Hostel

The whitewashed, thatch-roofed traditional cottage that is the Howmore Hostel on South Uist

TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH MUSEUM & ARTS CENTRE // LOCHMADDY, NORTH UIST

Taigh chearsabhagh museum & arts centre //.

LOCHMADDY, NORTH UIST

This arts and Gaelic culture centre hosts rotating exhibitions, as well as being home to a gift shop, a cafe, and the local post office. It’s a great place to retreat to on a rainy day, and the outdoor cafe deck is equally as inviting when the sun is shining. Entrance to the galleries are free, and there is a £3 charge for the heritage exhibition. Check what’s currently on via the Taigh Chearsabhagh website .

LONG ISLAND RETREATS // LOCH SKIPPORT, SOUTH UIST

Long island retreats //.

LOCH SKIPPORT, SOUTH UIST

For an insight into crofting heritage and day-to-day life on a working croft, join DJ and Lindsay for a tour from their home at Loch Skipport. Long Island Retreats offer a variety of experiences, from sheep shearing in July, to machair, croft, and island tours. They can even introduce you to a few of their Shetland ponies, a 50+ herd each with a name and character all of their own.

A windswept shetland pony with hair golden in the afternoon sun, on the road to Loch Skipport on South Uist

A windswept shetland pony on the road to Loch Skipport

A windswept shetland pony with hair golden in the afternoon sun, on the road to Loch Skipport on South Uist

A windswept shetland pony near Loch Skipport

SHORELINE STONEWARE // NORTH UIST

Shoreline stoneware //.

Shoreline Stoneware gallery and pottery showcases work from Uist-based artists and those with strong ties to the islands. It’s a great place to pick up a special piece of the Hebrides to take home.

UIST WOOL // GRIMSAY

Uist wool //.

Wool production has been an important part of island life for centuries, and the tradition continues in style at Uist Wool on Grimsay. Using lovingly restored machinery dating back to the 19th century, Uist Wool produces high quality undyed yarns from native wool. Pop into their mill and wool centre to see the process in action, and to pick up beautifully crafted woollen goods.

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DAY TRIPS FROM UIST

Although there is plenty to do on Uist, there are a few day trips we would highly recommend while visiting the islands.

DAY TRIP TO MINGULAY

Mingulay is an uninhabited island at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides. It is home to a large puffin colony, numerous other seabirds, a spectacular golden sand beach, the atmospheric ruins of an abandoned village, and some of the tallest sea cliffs in the British Isles. You can visit on a boat trip with Uist Sea Tours , departing from Eriskay Ferry Terminal. It takes around 1 hour to get to Mingulay, with the chance to spot dolphins and basking sharks on the way.

Aquamarine water meets golden sand on the shores of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides, with two day trip boats anchored in the bay and the hills rising above the beach

The bay on Mingulay where you’ll arrive and go ashore

Aquamarine water meets golden sand on the shores of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides, with two day trip boats anchored in the bay and the hills rising above the beach

Mingulay Bay, where you’ll arrive and go ashore

With no jetty or tourist infrastructure whatsoever on Mingulay, your island adventure starts with a scramble up the rocks, or perhaps a beach landing, whichever is considered safest on the day. You’ll have about 3 hours to explore Mingulay on foot, before returning to the boat for a spectacular trip around the sea cliffs and (weather permitting) through a huge natural sea arch.

A group of guillemots perch on a stone ledge on the sea cliffs of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides

Guillemots hanging out on the sea cliffs of Mingulay

A group of guillemots perch on a stone ledge on the sea cliffs of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides

Guillemots hanging out on the Mingulay sea cliffs

Between late April and early August, the puffin colony can be found on the grassy slopes to the northern side of the beach. The views from this spot are fantastic, looking out over turquoise water to the huge expanse of beach at Mingulay bay, backed by the ruined buildings of the village, abandoned in 1912. Sit quietly, wait patiently, and you’ll be rewarded with the incredible sight of puffins zooming around, popping in and out of their burrows to survey the land.

Two puffins in long grass on Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides

Outside their burrows

A puffin on a rocky ledge on Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides

A puffin on the rocky ledge above the bay

Puffins outside their burrows

Besides puffin encounters, Mingulay is also a great place to spot seals. They sometimes haul out in huge numbers on the beach, but you are most likely to see them frolicking around in the bay. You can wander around the remains of the village and the restored former school building, or head off on a longer hike up Cnoc Mhic-a-Phi (MacPhee’s Hill) (224 m), to the sheer cliffs of Biulacraig (Eagle Cliff), or up Carnan (273 m) or Hecla (219 m).

There are no toilets or other facilities on Mingulay. There is a natural water source, which should be boiled or treated before drinking. The terrain is uneven, and sturdy walking shoes are recommended. The weather can be very changeable, so you should pack waterproofs and warm clothing, as well as a hat, sunglasses, etc. Don’t forget to pack enough food and water for the 6 hour trip. There is no phone reception or data connection on the island. Tours cost £70 per person and run in good weather between approximately April and September.

See what a day trip to Mingulay is like in our Barra, Vatersay and Mingulay film below.

DAY TRIP TO ST KILDA

St Kilda is a small archipelago of rugged volcanic islands, sitting in the North Atlantic more than 40 miles west of Uist. These isolated isles are one of the few dual UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world, inscribed for both cultural and natural criteria.

A journey here is not for the faint hearted, with a 3 hour trip in each direction across often rough seas. But the reward for such an undertaking is the chance to witness tens of thousands of gannets circling above you, dive bombing the sea for their next catch. It’s the chance to imagine life 100 years ago for those who lived here, surviving largely off seabirds hunted by skilled cragsmen with heads for heights. And it’s the chance to feast your eyes upon the tallest sea cliffs and sea stacks in the British Isles, towering above you impressively as you bob around in the boat below. It’s a truly special place, and having made it as far as Uist, it’s well worth considering a day trip to St Kilda as well.

An amazing view of Boreray, Stac an Armin, and Stac Lee, rising from the water, seen from Hirta, the largest of the St Kilda islands

The view of Boreray, Stac Lee, and Stac an Armin from Hirta, the main island of St Kilda

An amazing view of Boreray, Stac an Armin, and Stac Lee, rising from the water, seen from Hirta, the largest of the St Kilda islands

A view of Boreray, Stac Lee, and Stac an Armin from Hirta, the main island of St Kilda

You can visit St Kilda once a week on Mondays between April and September with Hebridean Sea Tours , departing from Eriskay Ferry Terminal (weather permitting). Note that the Eriskay pick up/drop off option is not mentioned on their main booking page, but you can select this option at the confirmation stage. It’s a full day trip, typically lasting more than 12 hours, and costs £205. Booking well in advance is highly recommended.

You can read more about the history and significance of St Kilda and get practical tips for a visit to the islands in our dedicated St Kilda Travel Guide , and see more from St Kilda in our film below.

LADY ANNE WILDLIFE WATCHING BOAT TRIP

Departing from Kallin Harbour on Grimsay and skippered by Nick, the Lady Anne departs a few times a week between approximately May and September for a 2 hour wildlife viewing trip around neighbouring Ronay island. You’ll have the chance to see otters, red deer, dolphins, seals, and a variety of seabirds, plus an almost guaranteed sighting of a white tailed sea eagle! More details are available via their website and Facebook page , and you can call Nick on +44(0)7305163700 to book a trip (£40 per person).

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travel guide outer hebrides

UIST TRAVEL TIPS & PRACTICALITIES

In order to make your visit run smoothly, there are a few things to be aware of when planning a trip to Uist. We go into more detail below, but in general it’s good to know that services such shops, banks, and petrol stations are only available in larger community hubs , and that many places close or have reduced opening hours on Sundays . Check the ‘Uist Practicalities’ markers on our map  for the location of everywhere mentioned in this guide.

The largest supermarkets on Uist are MacLennan’s in Balivanich (Benbecula), and the two Co-ops at Creagorry (Benbecula) and Daliburgh (South Uist), both of which are the only supermarkets open between 6pm – 10pm on Sundays. There are also smaller shops at Sollas, Bayhead, and Lochmaddy on North Uist, at Carnan on South Uist, and on Berneray and Eriskay too.

FUEL STATIONS

You can fill up fuel at Lochmaddy and Bayhead on North Uist, at Balivanich and Creagorry on Benbecula, and at Daliburgh and Lochboisdale on South Uist. The Seaview Filling Station at Balivanich and the Crossroads Filling Station at Creagorry are both pay-at-the-pump and accessible 24/7 .

ELECTRIC VEHICLE CHARGING

There are a number of electric vehicle charging points throughout North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay. We’ve marked the locations on our map .

There are a limited number of ATMs on Uist, found in Lochmaddy, Balivanich, Daliburgh, and Lochboisdale. Many places will accept card payments but it’s best to have cash too, so ideally withdraw enough cash for the duration of your trip.

UIST PUBLIC TOILETS AND SHOWERS

There are public toilets available at each of the CalMac ferry terminals: Berneray (24/7), Lochmaddy, Lochboisdale, and Eriskay (24/7). There are also toilets at Bernerary Harbour and the visitor centre at Balranald RSPB Reserve.

PHONE SIGNAL AND WIFI

Phone signal and data connection is generally good throughout Uist, and free public WiFi is available at each of the CalMac Ferry Terminals. Many cafes and other establishments also offer WiFi.

DRIVING ON SINGLE TRACK ROADS

You will come across single track roads often while driving around Uist. These have regular passing places, allowing you to pass oncoming traffic or let cars behind you safely overtake. Be sure to read up on how to drive on single track roads in advance, and watch this short animation video for a great visual overview.

WHERE TO EAT ON UIST

There are a range of options when it comes to eating out on Uist, including community cafes, food trucks, hotel restaurants, and more. Fresh local seafood is particularly good. The below is not an exhaustive list of food options on the islands, rather our top suggestions for where to eat on Uist.

Berneray Shop and Bistro | Classic cafe options for lunch, with a separate seafood-centred menu for dinner. Open May – September. Mon – Sat, 10am – 4pm (last orders 3pm for lunch), Dinner 6pm – 8.30pm (dinner reservations highly recommended – call +44 ( 0)1876 540288)

The Wee Cottage Kitchen | Food truck serving morning rolls, local seafood, sandwiches, hot drinks, baked goodies, etc. Open Mon – Sat, 10am – 3.30pm

The Dunes Cabin | Food truck operating out of the Balranald Hebridean Holidays campsite, next to RSPB Balranald. Hot rolls, local seafood, cakes, hot drinks, soup, etc. Open April – September: Tues – Fri, 11am – 3pm; Sat – Sun, 11am – 4pm

Kirkibost Cafe  | Community cafe serving lunch, hot drinks, cakes, etc. Locally made preserves, chutneys, etc. sold via the onsite Hebridean Kitchen . Usually open Tues – Thurs, 11.30am – 2.30pm (check their Facebook page for updates)

Langass Lodge | Fine dining, including local seafood. Lunch Mon – Fri (& Sun), Brunch Sat, 10.30am – 2pm, Dinner from 6pm. Reservations essential – call +44 (0)1876 580 285

The Wilder Kitchen | Unique dining experiences on the beach, prepared  on open fires by Langass Lodge chef, William Hamer. Booking essential, limited dates. Check Instagram and Facebook for updates

Taigh Chearsabhagh Cafe | Cafe at the museum and arts centre in Lochmaddy, serving soup, toasties, cakes, hot drinks, etc. Outdoor deck and indoor seating. Mon – Sat, 10am – 4pm (last orders 3.30pm)

Namara | Fresh seafood including scallops, lobster, langoustine, and crab in a no-frills cafe environment. Good value for money. Open Tues – Thurs, 9am – 4pm; Fri, 9am – 7pm; Sat 10am – 7pm

Charlie’s Bistro | Small restaurant focusing on local seafood and bistro classics. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  Mon – Thurs, 9am – 11pm; Fri, 9am – 1am; Sat, 10am – 1am. Advanced reservations for dinner recommended – call +44(0)1870 603242  

Borrodale Hotel | Restaurant open to non-residents. Open 7 days, 11am – late. R eservations recommended. Call +44( 0)1878 700444

Burnside Chip Shop | A petrol station that doubles up as a chippy! Decent fish suppers for takeaway only. Open Thurs – Sun, 8am – 7.30pm. Call +44(0)1878700184

Croft and Cuan | Takeaway food and good coffee at Lochboisdale pier, plus a mobile food truck attending events across Uist. Open Tues – Fri, 8am – 3pm; Sat, 10am – 3pm; Mon, 12pm – 3pm. Call +44( 0)1878 700117

Polochar Inn | Hotel bar and restaurant open to non-residents, brunch and dinner menu. Reservations recommended. Call +44( 0)1878 700215

Kilbride Cafe | Cafe with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the southern coast, part of the Kilbride Campsite. Morning rolls, all-day breakfast, soup, sandwiches, etc. Open Mon – Sat, 8.30 – 3.30pm; Sun, 11am – 3pm. Call +44( 0)1878 700008

Am Politician | Bar and restaurant named after the ship of Whisky Galore fame. Food served 7 days, 12pm – 8pm. Advance reservations highly recommended. Call +44( 0)1878 720246

VISIT MORE ISLANDS IN THE OUTER HEBRIDES

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DISCOVER THE BEST THINGS TO DO ON BARRA & VATERSAY

WHERE TO STAY ON UIST

There is a wide variety of accommodation options on Uist, from traditional inns and B&Bs, to glamping pods, hostels, and self-catering holiday homes. There are also a number of campsites, and wild camping is permitted in line with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code .

If you are travelling to Uist in a campervan, be sure to check this very handy pdf produced by Visit Outer Hebrides, listing chemical toilet disposal points, recycling points, and other places of relevance for campervanners. 

UIST HOSTELS AND BUNKHOUSES

Berneray Hostel | Traditional white-washed and thatched roof houses on the coast. No advanced bookings taken. Cash/cheque only

John’s Bunkhouse | Modern bunkhouse built in a traditional style

The Tractor Shed Pods and Bunkhouse | Turf-roofed camping pods and bunkhouse, campervan pitches too

Moorcroft Holidays Hostel | Small hostel overlooking a tidal bay, with campsite and glamping pods too

Nunton House Hostel | Large, historic building with four small en-suite dorm rooms

Howmore Hostel | Traditional thatched-roof white-washed cottage next to historic church ruins. Run by the same organisation as Berneray Hostel. No advance bookings taken, cash/cheque only

Kilbride Hostel | Located next to Kilbride Campsite and Kilbride Cafe. Six en-suite rooms of various sizes

UIST GLAMPING PODS

Air a’ Chroit Luxury Pods | T wo stylish pods with well appointed kitchenettes, bathrooms, and outdoor seating areas

Baleshare Bothies | Two cosy pods close to Baleshare Beach

Moorcroft Holidays Glamping | Three pods overlooking a tidal bay, sharing the grounds with the hostel and campsite

The Wee Haven | A cosy pod with an outdoor decking area

Uist Storm Pods | Two pods tucked into a hillside and overlooking a loch, close to Lochboisdale

Beag Na Haun Pod | Attractive pod with outdoor deck overlooking a tidal bay

UIST B&Bs

The Fisherman’s Snug B&B | Cosy snug in a family home with separate entrance, kitchenette, and bathroom

Benview B&B | Two rooms in a luxury B&B plus a separate lodge (with hot tub!)

Grianaig Guest House B&B | Modern, stylish B&B with four en-suite rooms

An Taigh Mor B&B | Three en-suite rooms in a modern home set in a beautiful location overlooking the Sound of Barra

UIST HOTELS

Hamersay House | Small hotel and brasserie in Lochmaddy

Langass Lodge | Former shooting lodge with acclaimed restaurant

Temple View Hotel | Convenient location on main road at the southern end of North Uist

Dark Island Hotel | Country-style hotel, bar, and restaurant

Isle of Benbecula House Hotel | Old-fashioned hotel on main road by Benbecula/South Uist causeway

Borrodale Hotel | Traditional hotel and restaurant on main road leading through South Uist

Lochboisdale Hotel | Historic building overlooking Lochboisdale harbour

Polochar Inn | Beautiful location at southern end of South Uist, original inn dates from 1750. Lively bar, good restaurant, and great views

UIST SELF-CATERING ACCOMMODATION

Uist Forest Retreat | Unique accommodation in cabins hidden in the forest looking out towards Vallay tidal island

Seas The Day Lodge | Modern, stylish, self-contained lodge

An Taigh Dubh | Restored blackhouse with thatched roof and modern interior

Smiddy Cottage | Beautiful stone and thatched-roof cottage holiday home at the southern end of South Uist

UIST CAMPSITES

Clachan Sands Informal Campsite | Informal camping area on grass overlooking Clachan Sands ( Traigh Hornais and Traigh Lingeigh). £10 per night, no facilities besides a bin and water tap. Popular with campervans

Balranald Campsite | Great location next to the beach and RSPB nature reserve, with The Dunes Cabin onsite

Moorcroft Holidays | Small campsite overlooking a tidal bay, also a hostel and glamping pods

Otters Edge Campsite | Convenient and central location on Uist

Kilbride Campsite |  Attractive location at southern end of South Uist, overlooking the Sound of Barra. Good cafe onsite, plus a hostel

Scotland Print Collection link image featuring a yacht at sunset in the bay at Vatersay in the Outer Hebrides

BROWSE OUR SCOTLAND PRINT COLLECTION

Scotland Print Collection link image featuring a yacht at sunset in the bay at Vatersay in the Outer Hebrides

HOW TO GET TO UIST

You can get to Uist by sea (CalMac ferry) or by air (Loganair prop plane), with the ferry being by far the most common method of travel. Advance ferry reservations are recommended if you are travelling with a vehicle, especially during the peak summer season. Changes can be made free of charge online or by calling CalMac customer services.

FERRY FROM UIG TO LOCHMADDY (NORTH UIST)

The car ferry from Uig (pronounced oo -ig) on the Isle of Skye to Lochmaddy on North Uist takes around 1 hour 45 minutes, and makes the journey once or twice a day. There is a bridge connecting Skye to mainland Scotland.

Check the ferry schedule and make a reservation on the CalMac website.

FERRY FROM MALLAIG TO LOCHBOISDALE (SOUTH UIST)

The car ferry from Mallaig on mainland Scotland to Lochboisdale in South Uist takes 3 hours 30 minutes, departing once or twice a day.

FERRY FROM ARDMHOR (BARRA) TO ERISKAY

A car ferry connects Barra and Eriskay 5 times a day. It takes about 40 minutes to cross the Sound of Barra.

The Loch Alain, a CalMac car ferry, in port at Eriskay having just crossed the Sound of Barra from Ardmhor

The ferry at Eriskay, having just crossed the Sound of Barra from Ardmhor

The Loch Alain, a CalMac car ferry, in port at Eriskay having just crossed the Sound of Barra from Ardmhor

FERRY FROM LEVERBURGH (HARRIS) TO BERNERAY

The car ferry between Harris and Berneray operates between three and five times a day. It takes about 1 hour to cross the Sound of Harris.

FLIGHTS TO BENBECULA

Loganair operates direct flights a few times a week from Glasgow to Benbecula (approx 1 hour journey time), and from Inverness with a touchdown in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis (approx 3 hours 30 minutes total journey time). There is a max luggage allowance of 15 kg. You can compare flight options and prices via Skyscanner .

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HOW TO GET AROUND UIST

Get around uist.

The most convenient way to get around Uist is by car , which you can hire on the island or bring on the ferry. Local hire companies include Car Hire Hebrides , Laing Motors , and Ask Car Hire .

There is a public bus service operating throughout the islands from Monday – Saturday (no Sunday service). You can check the bus timetables here .

Cycling is also a great way to get around. You can hire bikes (including electric bikes) from Heb E-Bike Hire on Grimsay, Bike Uist on North Uist, and Lasgair Bike Hire on South Uist. Or, bring your own on the ferry.

We hope you enjoyed our guide to the best things to do on Uist. If you have any questions, drop them in the comments below, and if you’ve been before, we’d love to hear about your own experience on the islands.

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Outer Hebrides , Travel Guides

Outer hebrides travel guide: 35 things to do in uist.

Want to visit the Outer Hebrides and have the islands to yourself? The islands of Uist, between Berneray and Eriskay, is exactly what you’re looking for: Endless beaches, rough mountain landscapes, machair and moors bursting with life, and locals who are proud to share their little slice of paradise with you. Use this travel guide full of memorable things to do in Uist to plan your trip to this hidden gem in the Outer Hebrides.

This post was commissioned by Visit Outer Hebrides.

This post contains affiliate links from which I may make a commission. Find out more here . All opinions are my own.

Nestled between Lewis & Harris, possibly the better known islands in the Outer Hebrides, and Barra, the island of airport fame, Uist is in many ways the secret treasure of the Western Isles.

Yet, the islands that make up Uist have a lot to offer. A proud connection to the islands’ Gaelic heritage, mesmerising landscapes, welcoming communities, mountains, moors and coastlines bustling with wildlife and more.

And the best thing is that here, you really get it all to yourself. Uist is a great place to “get away from it all” and experience the Outer Hebrides to their fullest.

I first visited Uist when I walked the Hebridean Way . I spent six days walking across the islands from Eriskay to Berneray. This time, I visited with a friend and we hired a rental car – more on getting around Uist below.

Both times Uist has been an absolute darling. Many of my favourite hiking routes are on these islands and on my most recent trip I was blown away by the wonderful people and their stories. These islands are quickly becoming some of my favourite Scottish isles !

This Uist travel guide will help you plan a trip to the islands. It contains:

  • A quick Uist FAQ
  • Tips for getting to Uist and getting around the islands
  • Things to do in Uist incl. each of the islands (Berneray, North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay)
  • Amazing places to eat in Uist incl. vegan-friendly eateries
  • Suggestions for places to stay in Uist

For a day-by-day rundown of my most recent trip, check out my Uist stories .

Uist is a stop on my Outer Hebrides itinerary – if you like what you see here, consider following on your next trip to Scotland!

Table of Contents

Outer Hebrides Wellbeing Trail

My most recent trip to Uist happened in partnership with Visit Outer Hebrides to promote their newly launched Wellbeing Trail . The Outer Hebrides are a fantastic place to find space to unwind, spend time in nature, enjoy life in the company of your loved ones and wonder and learn about Scottish history and Gaelic culture.

The Wellbeing Trail features 41 locations all over the Outer Hebrides that can help you boost your mental and physical well-being. They include lesser-known places and many recommendations by locals, so you can discover hidden gems wherever you go.

We visited many of the locations on the trail and many of the things to do in Uist included below are also part of it.

You can download the Wellbeing Trail leaflet here .

Visit Outer Hebrides Wellbeing Trail

Uist Travel Guide

Where is uist.

Uist is a group of islands in the Outer Hebrides. They are located south of Lewis and Harris – the Sound of Harris separates Harris and Berneray – and north of Barra and Vatersay – across the Sound of Barra. The water between the islands and the mainland is called the Little Minch towards Skye and the Sea of the Hebrides further south.

Which islands make up Uist?

The main islands making up Uist are Berneray, North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay. There are also the Monach Isles off the coast of North Uist and many other uninhabited islands in the surrounding waters.

You might also like: Which Scottish Isles to visit & why

How to get to Uist

Ferry connections to uist.

There are two ferries from the Scottish mainland to the islands of Uist. Both are operated by Calmac.

There is a ferry from Mallaig to Lochboisdale on South Uist. The crossing takes approximately 3.5 hours and leaves 1-2 times per day.

The second ferry departs from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy on North Uist. This crossing is shorter – one hour and 45 minutes – and it also runs 1-2 times per day.

Flying to Uist

The Scottish airline Loganair operates flights from Glasgow and Inverness to Benbecula airport, which serves as the airport for all the islands of Uist. There are also flights from Benbecula to Stornoway.

Flying to the Outer Hebrides is a great option if you are short on time and want to maximise your time on the Outer Hebrides. The views are also not too shabby!

Loganair plane at Benbecula airport

Getting around Uist

Car hire or public transport .

Driving is by far the most flexible option to get around Uist. We hired a car from Carhire Hebrides at Benbecula Airport. They have multiple locations throughout the islands, so it’s also possible to pick up and return your vehicle at different airports or ferry terminals.

It is also possible to explore Uist by public transport, but without a car it’s trickier to get around. You may have to walk, cycle or take local taxis to reach certain points of interest, and might not be able to visit as many places as with a car.

Note that many historic sites, places of natural beauty and interesting nature reserves are at the end of narrow single-track roads, and are not serviced by local buses.Find further information about getting around the Outer Hebrides here .

You might also like: My top tips for hiring a car in Scotland

Driving on a single track road on South Uist

Cycling or walking the Hebridean Way

Potentially easier than travelling by public transport, is to hire a bike or follow the Hebridean Way on foot.

About half the route crisscrosses the islands of Uist and you can visit most of the places mentioned below by doing a few detours.

Things to do in Uist

Now, let’s go through the islands of Uist one by one and explore some of the most beautiful places to visit and things to do on North Uist, South Uist, Benbecula, Eriskay, Berneray and Grimsay.

Things to do on North Uist

Langass community woodland.

One of the first things you’ll notice about the Outer Hebrides is that there are very few trees. Every now and then though, local communities have come together to plant community woodlands.

Langass Community Woodland is a green oasis on the moors of North Uist – it’s one of my favourite places to visit in Uist to go for a walk. The trees increase biodiversity on the island and offer a recreational space for locals and visitors. Most importantly, being around trees has proven health benefits!

There are several trails through the small forest. Consider also visiting the nearby chambered cairn Barpa Langais and the standing stones at Pobull Fhinn.

Langass Community Woodland on North Uist

Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve

The Outer Hebrides are home to several rare bird species that are rarely found on the mainland anymore. The corncrake is one of these nearly extinct birds. The RSPB nature reserve at Balranald is one of the best places to see – or rather hear – corncrake in their natural habitat.

There is a visitor centre and a 3.5 miles loop trail along the beach and through the dunes of the machair. Happy birding!

Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve, North Uist

Other things to do on North Uist

  • Visit the ruins of Teampull na Trionaid (Trinity Temple) in Carinish
  • Go for a walk at Traigh Iar beach
  • Walk to the tidal island Vallay during low tide
  • See the ruins of the Iron Age fort Dun an Sticir
  • Visit the exhibitions at Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre in Lochmaddy

You might also like: How to engage with Scottish Gaelic culture as a tourist

Things to do on South Uist

Learn about crofting at long island retreats.

Crofting is a sustainable way of farming on a small scale. It is a prevalent way of working the land across the Scottish islands. It differs from commercial farming in many ways – among others, animal stocks are smaller, animals from several crofts graze together and many tasks are done collaboratively.

The best way to learn about crofting is to actually visit a croft and spend time with the people who run it. Long Island Retreats on South Uist offer authentic tours and experiences on their own croft on Loch Sgioport. There are a few different options, but I recommend booking a croft tour to see all aspects of crofting and also meet their herd of Shetland ponies.

Crofter DJ runs the tours, while his partner Lindsay can point you in the way of lovely swim spots on the coast or hidden lochs on their land. I highly recommend following her advice!

Kathi and Fingers the Shetland pony

Loch Driudibeag Trails

The walk across Loch Druidibeg was my favourite part on the Hebridean Way. The moorland expands from the main road of South Uist to the east towards Loch Sgioport, and offers various different habitats and landscapes. It’s an RSPB nature reserve and a popular place to spot hen harriers and white-tailed eagles.

From the trails around the moorland, you’ll enjoy fantastic views of the tall mountains of South Uist.

You might also like: The best day hikes in Scotland

Loch Druidibeag moorland walk on South Uist

Rubha Aird a’ Mhuile Walk

Rubha Aird a’ Mhuile (Ardvule) is the westernmost point of South Uist. It sits at the edge of a grassy headland which breaks up the endless sandy beach on the west coast of the island.

The walk starts and finishes at St Mary’s RC Church in Bornais where there is plenty of parking, and follows a 3.5 mile loop trail . Along the way, you’ll come past the archaeological remains of a Viking settlement.

The headland is also on the Hebridean Whale Trail , so keep an eye out for the pod of resident bottlenose dolphins from Barra.

Rubha Ardvale walk, South Uist

North Loch Eynort & Arinaban Woodland

Loch Eynort is a big sea loch on the east coast of South Uist and the single-track road along the north shore is easily one of the most scenic drives on the island.

Here are some tips for driving on single-track roads safely and considerately.

Park up at the end of the road and go for a walk around Arinaban Woodland . There are some trees at the start, but soon the trail emerges into a wide open landscape – beautiful hillsides filled with purple heather that blooms in August and September, imposing mountains in the distance, and the serene waters of Loch Eynort below.

You can do a small loop and walk for an hour, or spend more time exploring the trails around the woodland. This walk was one of my favourite things to do in Uist.

Arinaban Woodland, North Loch Eynort, South Uist

Other things to do on South Uist

  • Drive down the scenic Loch Sgioport road
  • Explore the history of Cladh Hallan with the Uist Unearthed app
  • Visit Kildonan Museum
  • Follow the Machair Way path from Polochar along the sandy west coast

Things to do on Benbecula

Culla bay beach.

Culla Bay is a beautiful sandy beach in Baile nan Cailleach (Nunton), a small hamlet on the west coast of Benbecula. The beach is just a 5-minute drive from the airport which makes it the perfect first or last stop on your trip to Uist.

The sand dunes and machair behind the beach are full of wildlife – nesting waders like oystercatchers and lapwing can be found in abundance. You might even hear corncrake calling while you take in the views.

Culla Bay beach is also a popular wild swimming spot, if you’re looking for a dip in the sea.

Culla Bay Beach on Benbecula

Gin tasting at North Uist Distillery

Confusingly, North Uist Distillery is located on Benbecula! The budding whisky company started on North Uist but when they found a beautiful empty farmstead on Benbecula they relocated to the island.

North Uist Distillery already produces delicious gin, infused with locally foraged heather flowers, and is currently gearing up to start distilling whisky in 2023.

Gin tastings are available at their site on Benbecula.

Gin tasting set at North Uist Distillery

Climb Ruabhal

Ruabhal (Rueval) is the highest hill on Benbecula. It stands just 124m above sea level, but since Benbecula is otherwise super flat, the hill looks absolutely massive from the bottom.

I actually climbed Ruabhal when I hiked the Hebridean Way and it took just about 45 minutes to reach the top. From the summit, you get a 360 degree view of the island, North Uist and Harris in the north, South Uist to the south and the isle of Skye across the Little Minch.

woman sitting at the top of Ruaval on Benbecula

Other things to do on Benbecula

  • Head to the beach Shell Bay at Liniclate
  • Visit the ruins of Borve Castle, seat of the Clanranald until the 1715 Jacobite Rising
  • Book a riding lesson on the beach with Uist Community Riding School

Things to do on Eriskay

Coilleag a phrionnsa – the prince’s beach.

When Bonnie Prince Charlie arrived in Scotland in 1745, he landed on Eriskay hoping to gain the support for his cause from the predominantly Catholic population. He failed and ended up moving his efforts to the mainland, but Eriskay will forever get to claim that this is where the Young Pretender first set foot on Scottish soil.

The beach is a breathtaking white sandy bay next to the ferry pier. It’s a beautiful spot for a day on the beach and a dip in the sea. This is one of my favourite beaches in Uist.

travel guide outer hebrides

Find the Eriskay ponies

The Eriskay Pony is a rare breed that is native to the Hebridean islands. The breed was nearly lost until the Eriskay Pony Society was formed in 1972 and devoted itself to the resurrection of these beautiful ponies.

They are predominantly white-grey in colour and even though they are all owned by someone, they roam the island freely. They can often be spotted high up in the hills of the island, or around the village.

If you do spot them, approach them with caution and do not feed them – it’s not healthy for the ponies and can be dangerous for you.

an Eriskay pony

Book an Eriskay Walking Tour

Eriskay may be small, but there is a lot about this island that makes it special. One of the best ways to learn about the island is to book a walking tour with Uist Sea Tours. They’re a local company doing boat trips, but started to offer walking tours to share their passion for the island.

The two hour walking tour takes in locations such as the Prince’s beach, the unique Eriskay football field and more. The tour finishes with a dram at the local pub Am Politician and tales of the SS Politician, a cargo ship that sank off the island in 1943. On board: thousands of cases of whisky which were quickly “saved” by the locals.

The story of the SS Politician inspired Compton Mackenzie to write his novel Whisky Galore .

travel guide outer hebrides

Boat trip to Mingulay with Uist Sea Tours

Mingulay is a small island south of Vatersay and Barra. It has been uninhabited since 1912, but you can still wander around the remains of the village. The island is owned by the National Trust for Scotland and is home to a thriving puffin colony. On the west coast, it features some of Britain’s tallest sea cliffs and an absolutely epic sea arch which you can sail or – if you’re lucky – paddle board through.

Uist Sea Tours runs boat trips from Eriskay to Mingulay throughout the summer. The journey down takes just one hour. You get three hours on the island to explore the village and visit the puffins. You’ll take in the sea cliffs on the way down or back, depending on the weather. This boat trip was easily among my favourite things to do in Uist.

Alternatively, you can book a private charter with Uist Sea Tours to visit Mingulay or other islands in the area, including the Monach Isles, St Kilda, Canna or Coll.

Back on Uist, you can hire paddleboards or book guided excursions. We even brought the paddle boards to Mingulay on our private charter trip.

If you’ve ever thought about visiting St Kilda , but were put off by the 2.5-hour journey there, Mingulay is a perfect alternative. I actually thought the sea cliffs and sea arch were more stunning than the cliffs and stacks of St Kilda – but of course it’s not a double heritage site. Each destination has its benefits!

kathi kamleitner sitting at the back of a boat

Things to do on Berneray

Berneray is the northernmost island of Uist. It is connected to North Uist by a causeway that was only opened in 2000, and to Harris to the north by ferry. It’s tiny, but packs a punch.

West Beach & East Beach

Berneray’s west coast is one giant beach. West Beach has been voted among Europe’s most beautiful beaches and was accidentally used to promote a beach on Koh Chang by the Thai tourism board.

There is a great loop trail around the island that takes in West Beach and also East Beach, the beach facing towards Harris.

Berneray beach view

Seal spotting

There is a local seal colony in the village bay and a great viewing point to sit and watch them as they haul out onto the rocks at low tide. This spot is also on the Outer Hebrides Wellbeing Trail!

Other things to do on Berneray

  • Take a walk to Queen’s Beach in the south of the island
  • Visit Cladh Maolrithe standing stone
  • Pick up local souvenirs at Coralbox Gift Shop

Things to do on Grimsay

Most people drive across Grimsay on the way from North Uist to Benbecula, but few people really visit Grimsay. Even though it’s such an easy detour!

Drive the loop road to Kallin harbour

The is a loop road around Grimsay, starting and finishing on the main road between the North Uist and Benbecula causeways. Follow the signs for Kallin harbour – if you miss the first, just take the second and you’ll end up in the same place.

The scenery of Grimsay is stunning and you’re never far from the sea. Stop by Hebridean Candles to pick up local souvenirs. If the weather is nice, take a look at the colourful fishing boats at Kallin Harbour. Finally, learn about Hebridean wool production and shop some locally sourced and milled sheep’s wool at Uist Wool .

Uist wool mill on Grimsay

Other things to do on Grimsay

  • Book a boat tour to see local wildlife with Lady Anne Boat Trips
  • Visit the Grimsay Boat Museum at Ceann na h-Àirigh community centre
  • Hire e-bikes to explore the island

Vegan-friendly places to eat in Uist

The Outer Hebrides do not have the reputation of a vegan-friendly paradise. The local cuisine is obviously strongly linked with crofting, fishing and historically, the hunting for seabirds. But the islands are really catching up! A lot has happened since my first visit in 2018 and there is a lot more plant-based choice available now.

Of course, all the below mentioned restaurants are equally excellent if you are not vegan!

  • Langass Lodge on North Uist: Perfect for a fancy treat with stunning views of the hills on North Uist
  • Borrodale Hotel on South Uist: A cosy and rustic bar & restaurant with an excellent menu
  • The Wee Cottage Kitchen on North Uist: A food truck with freshly prepared seafood rolls and a few vegan options
  • Am Politician on Eriskay: The one and only pub on Eriskay with a great pub menu
  • Croft & Cuan on South Uist: A brilliant lunch cafe in Lochboisdale
  • Berneray Bistro on Berneray: A cafe with lunch options at the community shop

You might also like: My guide to travelling Scotland as a vegan

Dinner at Langass Lodge Hotel, North Uist

Where to stay in Uist

Even though Uist is made up of so many islands, it’s easy to explore all of them from one home base – no need to move on every (few) nights. This also makes it easier to find suitable self-catering accommodation as many require a minimum stay for 3-4 nights at least.

We spent four nights at Air a’Chroit Luxury Pods on North Uist and absolutely loved the experience. The pod was more spacious than other pods I’ve stayed in before and really well laid out. An additional skylight window brings additional light into the living space and the bed is super comfy. The kitchen is well equipped and all the furnishings are really well chosen.

Air s'Chroit Luxury Glamping Pods, North Uist

In general, there is more self-catering accommodation available on Uist than B&Bs or hotels. Look for pods or cottages that are located on locally owned croft land and try to stay away from second homes that are rented out as holiday homes. This is to make sure that the money you spend on accommodation contributes to the local economy and does not leave the islands. (Many second home/holiday cottages are owned by people who live off-island.)

If you are looking for a more traditional stay in a hotel, check out the hotels listed above in the food section. There are also hotels in Lochmaddy and Lochboisdale.

If you’re on a budget, check out my guide to accommodation on the Hebridean Way which includes several hostels and campsites.

Kathi at Culla Bay on Benbecula

As you can see, Uist is a true hidden gem in the Outer Hebrides. The islands of Uist are among my favourite Scottish islands to visit to spend time in nature & watch wildlife, get away from busy life and connect with amazing locals who love sharing their islands with visitors.

I hope this guide gives you everything you need to plan a trip to Uist, follow the new Wellbeing Trail and enjoy a relaxing island hopping trip on the west coast.

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Want the Outer Hebrides all to yourself? Use guide to memorable things to do in Uist to plan a trip to this hidden gem in the Western Isles.

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2 thoughts on “ Outer Hebrides Travel Guide: 35 Things to do in Uist ”

Thank you Kathi for a great feature on your travels through Uist. So often folk seem to rush through Uist travelling between Barra and Harris. Our neighbouring Islands are worthy destinations but as you have clearly shown Uist itself has so much to offer, more of course than even your blog has space for! Thank you for sharing your journey, but mostly just for coming and having such a great time. Haste ye back ☺️

Thanks, Robin! I agree – people in general rush too much instead of exploring each area more in depth – myself included. I wish I could have stayed even longer and seen even more! Can’t wait to return 🙂 The blue bell candle I bought brightens up my office all the time!

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Scotland’s Hebrides Islands Travel Guide: NEED TO KNOW Tips

Published: October 17, 2023

Modified: December 28, 2023

by Gloriane Peres

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  • Travel Guide
  • Travel Tips

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Introduction

Welcome to Scotland’s stunning Hebrides Islands, a group of islands located off the northwest coast of mainland Scotland. With their breathtaking landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and abundant wildlife, the Hebrides are a paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

The Hebrides Islands are divided into two main groups: the Inner Hebrides and the Outer Hebrides. The Inner Hebrides consist of Skye, Mull, Islay, and several other islands, while the Outer Hebrides include Lewis and Harris, North Uist, South Uist, and Barra, among others. Each island has its own unique charm and attractions, making them a delightful destination to explore.

Whether you’re interested in hiking majestic mountains, exploring ancient ruins, or simply relaxing on pristine beaches, the Hebrides Islands offer something for everyone. Immerse yourself in the rich Gaelic culture, witness the dramatic Scottish sunsets, and indulge in the delicious local cuisine.

In this comprehensive travel guide, we will provide you with all the essential information you need to know before visiting the Hebrides Islands. From how to get there and when to go, to the top attractions and activities, we’ve got you covered. So, pack your bags and get ready for an unforgettable adventure in the enchanting Hebrides!

Overview of the Hebrides Islands

The Hebrides Islands are a stunning archipelago located on the western coast of Scotland. This group of islands is known for its rugged landscapes, picturesque beaches, and rich history. Split into the Inner and Outer Hebrides, this region offers a diverse range of experiences for travelers.

The Inner Hebrides, closer to the mainland, are characterized by towering mountains, deep lochs, and charming coastal villages. The Isle of Skye, one of the most popular destinations in the Hebrides, is renowned for its dramatic landscapes such as the iconic Old Man of Storr and the Fairy Pools.

Further south lies the Isle of Mull, home to sandy beaches, historic castles, and diverse wildlife, including the famous puffins on Lunga Island. The Isle of Islay, known as the “Queen of the Hebrides,” offers visitors a chance to explore its renowned distilleries and sample some of Scotland’s finest single malt whiskies.

In contrast, the Outer Hebrides, a remote and untouched cluster of islands, boast pristine white sand beaches that stretch for miles. Lewis and Harris, the largest of the Outer Hebrides islands, are famous for their ancient standing stones at Callanish, beautiful coastal walks, and the stunning turquoise waters of Luskentyre Beach.

One of the unique aspects of the Hebrides Islands is the Gaelic language and culture that still thrives here. Gaels have inhabited these islands for centuries, and their rich heritage can be experienced through traditional music, language, and local customs.

With their diverse range of outdoor activities, the Hebrides Islands offer something for all nature enthusiasts. From hiking and climbing to kayaking and wildlife spotting, there are plenty of opportunities to discover the natural beauty of the islands.

Whether you’re seeking a peaceful retreat or an adventurous getaway, the Hebrides Islands are a must-visit destination in Scotland. With their stunning scenery, rich history, and warm Gaelic hospitality, this enchanting archipelago promises a truly unforgettable experience.

How to Get to the Hebrides

Getting to the Hebrides Islands is an adventure in itself. Although situated off the northwest coast of mainland Scotland, there are several transportation options available to reach this remote and picturesque archipelago.

1. By Ferry: One of the most popular and scenic ways to reach the Hebrides is by ferry. Several ferry routes operate between the mainland and the islands. The main ferry ports for accessing the Inner Hebrides are Oban, Mallaig, and Uig on the Isle of Skye. For the Outer Hebrides, the ferry departs from Ullapool and Oban to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.

2. By Air: If you prefer a quicker mode of transportation, you can opt to fly to the Hebrides. There are direct flights from major cities such as Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Inverness to the main airports in the Hebrides, including Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, Benbecula, and Barra. Flights to Barra are particularly unique as the airport is situated on a beach, making it one of the world’s most scenic landing strips.

3. By Car: If you’re planning to explore the islands at your own pace, bringing your own car or renting one is a convenient option. You can take your car on the ferry and use it to travel around the islands. However, it’s important to check ferry schedules and availability in advance, especially during peak seasons, as spaces for vehicles can fill up quickly.

4. By Bus and Train: Public transportation options are available to some of the main ferry ports. Buses and trains operate from major cities to destinations such as Oban and Mallaig, where you can then catch a ferry to the Hebrides. Be sure to check the schedules and connections to ensure a smooth journey.

Once you’ve arrived at your chosen island in the Hebrides, there are local bus services, taxis, and car rental options available to help you explore the different areas.

It’s important to note that weather conditions can sometimes affect ferry and flight schedules, particularly in the winter months. It’s advisable to check for any weather-related updates and plan your travel accordingly.

With the various transportation options available, reaching the Hebrides Islands is an exciting and memorable part of your journey, allowing you to immerse yourself in the natural beauty and tranquility of this unique Scottish destination.

Best Time to Visit the Hebrides

The best time to visit the Hebrides Islands largely depends on your personal preferences and the activities you wish to engage in. Each season offers its own unique charm, and the weather can vary significantly throughout the year.

Spring (March to May): Spring is a wonderful time to visit the Hebrides as the islands burst into life with vibrant colors and blossoming flowers. The weather is generally mild, although it can be changeable, so it’s advisable to pack layers. Wildlife enthusiasts will enjoy the opportunity to spot migratory birds returning to the islands and witness adorable seal pups along the coastline.

Summer (June to August): Summer is the peak tourist season in the Hebrides, thanks to the longer daylight hours and milder weather. This is the perfect time to explore the pristine beaches, go hiking in the mountains, and participate in various water sports such as kayaking and surfing. The islands come alive with festivals and events, celebrating the Gaelic culture and traditions. However, it’s worth noting that accommodation and popular sites can get crowded, so advanced booking is recommended.

Autumn (September to November): Autumn is a quieter period in the Hebrides, offering a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. The landscapes are adorned with hues of orange and gold as the leaves change color. This is an excellent time for hiking and photography, as the dramatic vistas are further enhanced by the golden light. Autumn also brings opportunities to attend traditional music and cultural events, providing a deeper insight into the local way of life.

Winter (December to February): Winter in the Hebrides offers a unique and magical experience. Although the weather can be harsh and unpredictable, with shorter daylight hours, there is a certain charm to the islands during this time. The dramatic landscapes are often covered in a blanket of snow, creating a picturesque winter wonderland. This is an ideal time for cozying up by a warm fire in a traditional pub, sampling hearty Scottish cuisine, and immersing oneself in the local folklore and music.

It’s important to note that the weather in the Hebrides can change quickly, and it’s always recommended to check the forecast before setting out. Regardless of the season, proper outdoor clothing and waterproof gear are essential for any visit to the Hebrides.

Ultimately, the best time to visit the Hebrides depends on your preferences and the type of experience you desire. Whether you’re seeking vibrant festivals or peaceful solitude, you’re sure to discover the beauty of the islands, no matter the time of year.

Weather and Climate

The Hebrides Islands experience a mild and temperate maritime climate, influenced by the Gulf Stream. However, the weather can be highly variable and changeable, even within a single day. It’s often said that you can experience all four seasons in one day in the Hebrides!

Summer (June to August): The summer months in the Hebrides are generally mild, with average temperatures ranging from 14°C (57°F) to 17°C (63°F). It’s the sunniest period of the year, with longer daylight hours, ranging from 16 to 18 hours per day. However, it’s still advisable to pack layers as the weather can be unpredictable, and rain showers can occur at any time. It’s a popular time for outdoor activities and exploring the islands’ nature and wildlife.

Autumn (September to November): Autumn is characterized by cooler temperatures and increasing rainfall. The average temperatures range from 10°C (50°F) to 14°C (57°F). The autumn colors can be stunning as the landscapes transform into beautiful shades of orange and gold. Rainfall is more frequent during this time, so it’s important to be prepared with waterproof clothing. It’s a quieter season, perfect for those seeking a peaceful retreat and opportunities for scenic walks and cultural experiences.

Winter (December to February): Winter in the Hebrides is cold and can be quite blustery. Average temperatures range from 6°C (43°F) to 9°C (48°F). Rainfall is more persistent, and snowfall is not uncommon, particularly in the higher areas. Winter days are the shortest, with only 6 to 8 hours of daylight. It’s a unique time to experience the islands’ tranquility and cozy up by a warm fire in a traditional cottage or pub. The winter months are also ideal for birdwatching, as the islands become home to a variety of migratory species.

Spring (March to May): Spring brings milder temperatures and longer daylight hours. Average temperatures range from 8°C (46°F) to 12°C (54°F). The landscapes come alive with blooming flowers and foliage, and wildlife begins to make a return to the islands. Spring is a wonderful time for photography, as the scenery is vibrant and rejuvenated. However, the weather can still be changeable, so it’s best to pack layers and be prepared for rain showers.

It’s important to note that the weather conditions can vary between the Inner and Outer Hebrides. The western coast tends to be more exposed to the Atlantic weather systems, experiencing higher rainfall and stronger winds, while the eastern coast is generally milder.

Regardless of the season, it’s always advisable to pack layers, including waterproof clothing, as the weather can change quickly. Being prepared for different weather conditions will ensure a comfortable and enjoyable visit to the beautiful Hebrides Islands.

Accommodation Options

When visiting the Hebrides Islands, you’ll find a range of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference. From cozy guesthouses to luxurious hotels, traditional self-catering cottages to campsites amidst stunning landscapes, there’s something for everyone to enjoy their stay in the Hebrides.

Hotels: The Hebrides offer a variety of hotels scattered across the islands, ranging from small family-run establishments to larger luxury resorts. Many hotels boast stunning coastal or countryside locations, providing breathtaking views right from your window. Hotel amenities will vary but can include restaurants, bars, spas, and other leisure facilities.

Guesthouses and B&Bs: For a more intimate and local experience, staying in a guesthouse or bed and breakfast can be a great option. These accommodations are often owned and operated by friendly hosts who can offer valuable insights into the local area and provide a personalized touch to your stay.

Self-Catering Cottages and Apartments: If you prefer more independence and flexibility, renting a self-catering cottage or apartment is a popular choice in the Hebrides. These accommodations come fully equipped with kitchen facilities, allowing you to cook your meals and truly immerse yourself in the local culture.

Camping and Caravan Sites: The Hebrides offer beautiful camping and caravan sites for those who enjoy the great outdoors. Whether you bring your own camping gear or rent a caravan, camping in the Hebrides allows you to be closer to nature, with many sites offering stunning coastal or mountain views.

Hostels: For budget-conscious travelers, hostels provide a cost-effective option for accommodation. The Hebrides have a few well-equipped and comfortable hostels that offer dormitory-style rooms or private rooms at affordable rates.

It’s essential to book your accommodation well in advance, especially during the peak summer season when the islands attract a higher number of visitors. Additionally, do consider the location of your chosen accommodation, as the Hebrides Islands have scattered settlements, and some areas may require additional transportation to access attractions and activities.

Wherever you choose to stay in the Hebrides, you’ll be surrounded by stunning landscapes, warm hospitality, and the enchanting atmosphere of these beautiful Scottish islands.

Getting Around the Islands

Getting around the Hebrides Islands is relatively easy, with various transportation options available to explore the different islands and their attractions. Whether you prefer flexibility or a more guided experience, there are options to suit every traveler’s needs.

Car Rental: Renting a car is a popular choice for exploring the Hebrides Islands, providing you with the freedom to travel at your own pace. There are car rental companies available on the larger islands, such as Skye and Lewis, where you can pick up a vehicle upon arrival. Having a car allows you to venture off the beaten path, discover hidden gems, and take scenic drives along the coast.

Local Buses: Each island in the Hebrides has a network of local bus services, operated by several different companies. These buses provide affordable and convenient transportation between towns, villages, and popular attractions. However, it’s important to note that bus schedules may be less frequent, especially in more remote areas, so it’s advisable to plan your journeys in advance.

Taxis: Taxis are another option for getting around the islands, particularly if you prefer not to drive or are visiting with a group. Taxis can be hailed in towns or booked in advance for longer journeys or specific destinations.

Ferries: The Hebrides Islands are connected by a network of ferry routes, allowing travelers to hop between islands. Ferries not only offer transportation but also provide a scenic and memorable way to experience the stunning coastal landscapes. Timetables and routes can vary, and it’s recommended to check the ferry schedules in advance, especially during peak season.

Walking and Cycling: The Hebrides Islands have a multitude of walking and cycling routes, offering a unique perspective of the natural beauty and tranquility of the islands. Walking and cycling allow you to explore at a leisurely pace, discovering hidden gems and enjoying the breathtaking scenery.

Guided Tours: If you prefer a more structured and guided experience, there are various tour operators that offer guided tours around the Hebrides Islands. These tours often include transportation, knowledgeable guides, and pre-planned itineraries, ensuring you make the most of your visit to the islands.

It’s important to note that while public transportation options exist, some areas and attractions may be less accessible without private transportation. Additionally, it’s crucial to plan your journeys in advance, especially during off-peak seasons, as some transport services may have reduced schedules.

With multiple transportation options available, exploring the Hebrides Islands is an adventure in itself, allowing you to uncover the hidden gems and natural wonders of this pristine Scottish archipelago.

Top Attractions and Activities

The Hebrides Islands are a treasure trove of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural experiences. From magnificent landscapes to ancient ruins, there is no shortage of attractions and activities to immerse yourself in while exploring this stunning Scottish archipelago.

1. Isle of Skye: Known as the “Misty Isle,” Skye provides a wealth of breathtaking sights, including the iconic Fairy Glen, the magnificent Quiraing, and the enchanting Fairy Pools. Explore the medieval Dunvegan Castle or take a boat trip to spot seals and dolphins off the Isle of Raasay.

2. Callanish Standing Stones: Located on the Isle of Lewis, the Callanish Standing Stones are an ancient and mystical monument dating back over 5,000 years. Marvel at the impressive stone circle and soak in the atmosphere of this historical site.

3. Luskentyre Beach: Situated on the Isle of Harris, Luskentyre Beach is renowned for its pristine white sands and crystal-clear turquoise waters. Stroll along the shoreline, take in the stunning views of the surrounding landscape, and enjoy the tranquility of this breathtaking beach.

4. Isle of Iona: Visit the peaceful Isle of Iona, known as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland. Explore the historic Iona Abbey, stroll along beautiful beaches, and take a moment of reflection in the serene atmosphere of this spiritual island.

5. Isle of Mull: Mull offers diverse attractions, from the colorful waterfront of Tobermory to the fascinating wildlife at the Isle of Mull Wildlife Park. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the historic Duart Castle or take a wildlife tour to spot eagles, puffins, seals, and whales.

6. St. Kilda: Embark on a boat trip to the remote archipelago of St. Kilda, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This uninhabited island group is home to stunning cliffs, unique bird colonies, and a rich history. Explore the abandoned village of Hirta and witness the extraordinary wildlife.

7. Historic Castles: The Hebrides are adorned with a variety of historic castles, including Kisimul Castle on the Isle of Barra, Eilean Donan Castle near the Isle of Skye, and the magnificent Castle Tioram on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. These castles offer a glimpse into the region’s fascinating past.

8. Whisky Distilleries: The Hebrides are known for their whisky production, and visiting one of the distilleries is a must for whisky enthusiasts. Explore iconic distilleries such as Talisker on the Isle of Skye, Lagavulin on Islay, or the Isle of Harris Distillery, and learn about the whisky-making process.

9. Outdoor Activities: The Hebrides provide endless opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts. Go hiking in the Cuillin Mountains, try your hand at surfing along the coast, embark on a kayaking adventure, or explore the underwater world with snorkeling or diving excursions.

10. Gaelic Culture and Festivals: Immerse yourself in the rich Gaelic culture of the Hebrides by attending traditional music events and festivals, such as the Hebridean Celtic Festival on the Isle of Lewis. Experience Gaelic hospitality, learn about local traditions, and appreciate the vibrant music and language of the islands.

These are just a few of the many attractions and activities waiting to be discovered in the Hebrides Islands. Whether you’re seeking breathtaking natural landscapes, intriguing history, or a cultural experience like no other, the Hebrides will captivate you with their charm and beauty.

Outdoor Adventures

The Hebrides Islands are a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a wide array of activities and adventures amidst breathtaking natural landscapes. Whether you’re a hiker, kayaker, wildlife lover, or adrenaline seeker, the Hebrides have something for everyone to enjoy.

Hiking and Mountain Climbing: The Hebrides Islands are a haven for hikers and climbers, with its rugged mountains and stunning coastal trails providing endless opportunities for exploration. The Isle of Skye offers iconic hikes such as the Cuillin Ridge, while the Isle of Rum boasts the dramatic peaks of the Rum Cuillin. Mull, Islay, and Harris also offer scenic walks and challenging climbs for all skill levels.

Water Sports: The crystal-clear waters surrounding the Hebrides make it a perfect destination for water sports enthusiasts. Take to the waves and try your hand at surfing off the beaches of Lewis and Tiree. Alternatively, go kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding along the calm and sheltered sea lochs, giving you a unique perspective of the stunning coastline.

Wildlife Spotting: The Hebrides are renowned for their abundant wildlife. Embark on a wildlife-watching adventure and spot majestic sea eagles, puffins, otters, seals, and even the elusive whales and dolphins. Take a boat tour to the remote islands of St. Kilda to witness one of the world’s largest gannet colonies and experience the untouched wildlife.

Scenic Cycling: The islands’ quiet roads and picturesque landscapes make cycling a fantastic way to explore. Rent a bike and pedal along the coastal routes, catching breathtaking scenes at every turn. The Outer Hebrides’ Hebridean Way is a popular long-distance cycling route that takes you through stunning scenery, historic sites, and charming villages.

Fishing: The Hebrides offer excellent fishing opportunities, both in freshwater lochs and the surrounding sea. Cast your line for salmon and trout in the island’s rivers and lochs, or charter a boat and go deep-sea fishing for mackerel, cod, and even shark. Fishing enthusiasts will appreciate the tranquility and abundance of options available.

Scenic Drives: Exploring the islands by car or motorcycle is a fantastic way to appreciate the breathtaking landscapes. Take the winding roads of the Isle of Skye’s Trotternish Peninsula for stunning cliff-side views and the iconic Old Man of Storr. Or, drive along the Harris and Lewis coastal road, marveling at the rugged coastline, sandy beaches, and ancient stone structures.

With their diverse range of outdoor activities, the Hebrides Islands provide endless opportunities for adventure and exploration. Whether you’re seeking an adrenaline-pumping experience or a tranquil encounter with nature, the Hebrides will leave you with unforgettable memories of your outdoor adventures.

Wildlife Spotting

The Hebrides Islands are home to a wealth of wildlife, making it a dream destination for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. From majestic birds soaring through the skies to adorable marine creatures frolicking in the clear waters, the Hebrides offer fantastic opportunities for wildlife spotting.

Sea Eagles: One of the iconic species in the Hebrides is the white-tailed sea eagle, the largest bird of prey in the UK. These magnificent birds can be spotted soaring above the coastal areas, their broad wingspan and distinctive white tail feathers making them a remarkable sight.

Puffins: The comical and charismatic puffins are a crowd favorite among visitors to the Hebrides. These small seabirds with colorful beaks and distinctive black and white plumage nest in burrows along the coastal cliffs. The Isle of Lunga, part of the Treshnish Isles, is a popular spot to see puffins up close during the breeding season.

Seals: Throughout the Hebrides, you’ll encounter seals lounging on rocky shores or bobbing playfully in the water. Both grey seals and common seals can be spotted along the rugged coastline, where they enjoy the calm waters and bask in the sunshine. Boat trips often offer excellent opportunities for observing them at a safe distance.

Dolphins and Whales: The waters surrounding the Hebrides are teeming with marine life, including several species of dolphins and whales. Spotting common dolphins, Risso’s dolphins, or even the majestic orca (killer whale) is possible during boat trips or from the shore on a lucky day. Minke whales, porpoises, and even basking sharks can also be seen during the summer months.

Otters: The elusive and adorable otter is a true highlight for wildlife enthusiasts. These shy creatures can be seen fishing in the sea lochs or playing along the shoreline. Patience, stealth, and a bit of luck are necessary to spot these charismatic creatures, but the rewards are immense when you witness their playful antics.

Birdwatching: The Hebrides are a haven for birdwatchers, boasting a diverse range of avian species. In addition to puffins and sea eagles, you may also spot other seabirds such as guillemots, razorbills, and kittiwakes nesting on the coastal cliffs. The machair grasslands of the Outer Hebrides provide breeding grounds for a variety of rare and protected species, making it a birdwatcher’s paradise.

It’s important to respect the wildlife and their habitats while spotting them in the Hebrides. Keep a safe distance, adhere to any guidelines or regulations, and never disturb or feed the animals. Joining a guided wildlife tour or boat trip with knowledgeable guides can provide valuable insights and enhance your wildlife spotting experience.

The Hebrides offer a unique opportunity to witness the beauty and diversity of the natural world. With its abundance of wildlife, this archipelago promises unforgettable encounters with some of Scotland’s most incredible creatures in their natural habitat.

Historical and Cultural Sites

The Hebrides Islands are steeped in history and possess a rich cultural heritage, offering a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s past. From ancient ruins to well-preserved artifacts, the islands are scattered with historical and cultural sites that tell captivating stories of their inhabitants.

Dunvegan Castle: Situated on the Isle of Skye, Dunvegan Castle is the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland and has been the ancestral home of Clan MacLeod for over 800 years. Explore its well-preserved rooms, admire the beautiful gardens, and learn about the castle’s history through its fascinating artifacts and legends.

Calanais Standing Stones: On the Isle of Lewis, the Calanais Standing Stones, also known as Callanish, is a collection of ancient stone monuments dating back over 5,000 years. These mysterious standing stones form a Celtic cross-like pattern, sparking speculation about their purpose and significance.

The Black House: Visit the Black House Museum on the Isle of Lewis for a glimpse into traditional island life. These iconic houses were once the common dwelling of rural communities. Step inside to see how people lived, with exhibits showcasing the traditional furniture, tools, and lifestyle of the past.

Iona Abbey: Located on the Isle of Iona, the historic Iona Abbey holds great significance as a religious site and center of Celtic Christianity. Dating back to the 6th century, the abbey is an architectural marvel, and its tranquil setting continues to attract visitors seeking spiritual reflection.

Kisimul Castle: Situated on the Isle of Barra, Kisimul Castle is a stunning fortress perched on a rocky islet. This medieval stronghold has served as the ancestral seat of the Clan MacNeil for centuries. Explore its well-restored interior and enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding sea and landscape.

St. Clement’s Church: Found on the Isle of Harris, St. Clement’s Church is a picturesque Gothic Revival church dating back to the 16th century. Its interior features intricate wood and ironwork, stained glass windows, and a peaceful atmosphere ideal for reflection.

Museum nan Eilean: Located in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, Museum nan Eilean houses a treasure trove of historical artifacts, showcasing the islands’ archaeology, history, and natural heritage. From ancient fossils to traditional crafts, the museum provides a comprehensive insight into the Hebrides’ rich cultural heritage.

Duart Castle: Situated on the Isle of Mull, Duart Castle is a magnificent fortress with a dramatic cliff-top setting overlooking the Sound of Mull. Explore its well-preserved interior, visit the museum, and learn about the Maclean clan’s history and their connections to Scottish royalty.

These are just a few of the many historical and cultural sites the Hebrides have to offer. Explore the islands to uncover more ancient ruins, traditional villages, museums, and landmarks, and discover the captivating stories that have shaped this remarkable corner of Scotland.

Traditional Cuisine and Local Delicacies

When visiting the Hebrides Islands, be sure to tantalize your taste buds with the region’s traditional cuisine and indulge in local delicacies that showcase the rich flavors of the Scottish Isles. From delectable seafood to hearty dishes, there’s a wide range of culinary delights to explore.

Seafood: As the Hebrides are surrounded by the bountiful waters of the North Atlantic, it’s no surprise that seafood takes center stage in the local cuisine. Sample mouthwatering fresh oysters, succulent langoustines, plump scallops, and flaky white fish like haddock and cod. Don’t miss the chance to try traditional Cullen Skink, a creamy fish soup with smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions.

Black Pudding: A quintessential Scottish delicacy, black pudding, made with pig’s blood, oats, and spices, can be found on many Hebridean menus. This rich and flavorful sausage is often served as part of a hearty Scottish breakfast or as a delicious addition to a main course.

Stornoway Black Pudding: Hailing from the Isle of Lewis, Stornoway Black Pudding is a prized local specialty. The use of high-quality ingredients, including Scottish oats, makes it particularly renowned. Its distinct flavor and texture make it a must-try delicacy in the Hebrides.

Haggis: No visit to Scotland would be complete without trying haggis, a traditional dish made of sheep’s offal, onions, herbs, and spices, all encased in a sheep’s stomach. Haggis is often served with “neeps and tatties” (turnips and potatoes) and enjoyed as part of a traditional Burns Supper celebration.

Smoked Salmon: Hebridean smoked salmon is renowned for its exceptional quality and flavor. Locally caught salmon is expertly cured and smoked using traditional methods, resulting in a delicate texture and a rich smoky taste that is truly irresistible.

Tablet: Those with a sweet tooth should sample tablet, a traditional Scottish confectionery made with sugar, butter, and condensed milk. It has a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth texture and a rich caramel flavor. Enjoy it as a sweet treat or as a delightful dessert.

Whisky: The Hebrides are renowned for their whisky production, and tasting the local single malts is a must-do for whisky lovers. Distilleries on islands such as Islay and Skye produce a range of peaty and smoky whiskies that reflect the rugged and unique terroir of the region.

Many restaurants and cafes in the Hebrides pride themselves on sourcing local, seasonal ingredients, ensuring that each dish showcases the region’s flavors and traditions. Whether you’re dining in a cozy pub, a fine seafood restaurant, or indulging in a traditional Scottish feast, the local cuisine of the Hebrides is sure to delight and leave you craving more.

Shopping and Souvenirs

Exploring the Hebrides Islands offers plenty of opportunities to find unique souvenirs and take home a piece of this beautiful region. From local crafts to traditional products, shopping in the Hebrides is a delightful experience.

Harris Tweed: One of the most famous products from the Hebrides is Harris Tweed, a handwoven fabric made from pure virgin wool. Known for its durability and distinctive patterns, Harris Tweed items range from clothing and accessories to home décor. Make sure to purchase your own piece of this iconic Scottish textile as a keepsake or gift.

Island Crafts and Artwork: The Hebrides are home to a vibrant arts and crafts scene. Visit local galleries, craft centers, and boutiques to discover a wide range of handmade pottery, ceramics, jewelry, and artwork created by local artists. These unique pieces reflect the natural beauty and traditions of the islands.

Whisky and Local Beverages: The Hebrides are renowned for producing some of Scotland’s finest whiskies. Take the opportunity to visit the local distilleries and purchase a bottle of their renowned single malt or blended whisky as a special memento. You can also explore other local beverages, such as gin, craft beers, and traditional Scottish ales.

Local Food Products: Bring a taste of the Hebrides home by purchasing locally produced food products. From artisanal cheeses and smoked salmon to traditional oatcakes, preserves, and honey, you’ll find a range of delicious treats that capture the flavors of the islands. Look for farm shops, markets, and specialty stores to discover these culinary delights.

Gaelic Music and Books: The Hebrides have a rich musical heritage, rooted in Gaelic traditions. Browse local music shops and bookstores to find CDs, sheet music, and books on traditional music or the Gaelic language. These cultural treasures provide a deeper insight into the history and customs of the region.

Local Crafts and Knitwear: Embrace the warmth and craftsmanship of the Hebrides with traditional knitwear and handcrafted items. Look for items made from local wool, including stylish jumpers, scarves, blankets, and hats. Additionally, you may find hand-carved wooden items, leather goods, and more among the local crafts available.

Exploring the shops and markets of the Hebrides is an opportunity to support local artisans, learn about traditional crafts, and bring home unique and meaningful souvenirs that embody the spirit of these captivating islands.

Safety Tips for Travelers

While the Hebrides Islands are generally safe destinations, it’s always important to take precautions and prioritize your safety during your visit. Here are some essential safety tips to keep in mind:

1. Plan and Research: Before your trip, familiarize yourself with the area you’ll be visiting. Research the weather conditions, local customs, and any potential hazards or safety concerns specific to the islands. This will help you make informed decisions and stay prepared.

2. Dress Appropriately: The weather in the Hebrides can be unpredictable, so be prepared for various conditions. Pack layers of clothing, including waterproof and windproof gear, to accommodate changing weather patterns. Good walking shoes or boots are also recommended for exploring the rugged terrains.

3. Check the Tides: If you’re planning to explore coastal areas, be aware of the tides and plan your activities accordingly. Consult tide timetables and avoid getting caught in rapidly rising tides that can potentially pose a danger.

4. Stay on Designated Paths and Trails: When hiking or walking, stick to marked paths and trails to minimize the risk of accidents. Keep an eye on signage and follow any guidance or restrictions in place to ensure your safety and protect the fragile ecosystems of the islands.

5. Be Vigilant around Water: While the scenery is stunning, be cautious near bodies of water. Strong waves, unpredictable currents, and undertows can make swimming risky in certain areas. Follow local advice and warnings, and never leave children unattended near water.

6. Drive with Caution: If you’re renting a car or driving around the islands, be cautious on the narrow, winding roads and follow traffic regulations. Some roads may have single-track sections, so familiarize yourself with the passing places etiquette and use them when encountering oncoming traffic.

7. Wildlife Observation Etiquette: If you’re wildlife spotting, maintain a safe distance from animals and respect their habitats. Do not disturb or feed wildlife and be mindful of nesting areas during breeding seasons. Binoculars or a zoom lens can allow you to observe wildlife without getting too close.

8. Protect against Insects and Ticks: In certain areas, especially during the warmer months, insects and ticks can be prevalent. Use insect repellent, wear protective clothing, and consider checking yourself for ticks after spending time in grassy or wooded areas.

9. Stay Informed about COVID-19: During these times, stay updated on the latest travel guidelines and restrictions related to COVID-19. Follow hygiene practices, maintain social distancing, and adhere to any local regulations in place to ensure the safety of yourself and others.

10. Travel Insurance: It’s always wise to have comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical emergencies, trip cancellation, and any specific activities you plan to participate in, such as hiking or water sports.

By following these safety tips and using common sense, you can enjoy a safe and memorable experience exploring the stunning Hebrides Islands.

Etiquette and Customs

When visiting the Hebrides Islands, it’s helpful to familiarize yourself with the local etiquette and customs to ensure a respectful and enjoyable experience. Here are some key points to keep in mind:

Greetings and Politeness: The people of the Hebrides are known for their warmth and friendliness. It’s customary to greet others with a smile and a friendly “hello” or “hi.” Politeness is valued, so saying “please” and “thank you” is important in everyday interactions.

Punctuality: Being punctual is appreciated in the Hebrides. If you have arranged to meet someone or join a scheduled tour or event, it’s considered polite to arrive on time.

Respecting Gaelic Culture: The Hebrides have a rich Gaelic heritage, and locals take pride in their language and traditions. Showing respect for Gaelic culture includes being mindful of signs in Gaelic, using basic Gaelic greetings (“hello” is “halò,” and “thank you” is “tapadh leat”), and showing an interest in learning about the local traditions.

Conservation and Environment: The Hebrides have exceptional natural beauty that is cherished by both locals and visitors. It’s important to respect the environment by avoiding littering, staying on designated paths, and following any specific guidelines or instructions when visiting protected areas.

Tipping: While not obligatory, tipping is appreciated for good service. In restaurants, a typical practice is to leave a gratuity of around 10% of the bill if the service is satisfactory. Tipping in other service industries like taxis or hotels is also customary.

Observing Local Customs: The Hebrides have a strong sense of tradition and local customs. Observe and respect any local customs or traditions you come across during your visit, such as participating in festivals, listening to traditional music, or joining in on cultural events.

Dressing Modestly: When visiting places of worship or more conservative areas, dressing modestly is appreciated. It’s advisable to have a wrap or scarf to cover your shoulders or head if necessary.

Be Mindful of Others: The Hebrides are known for their peaceful and serene atmosphere. When visiting public places, be mindful of noise levels and avoid disturbing others, especially in residential areas or during quiet hours.

Photography Etiquette: The beauty of the Hebrides may inspire you to take countless photos. However, it’s important to be respectful when taking pictures, especially in private or sensitive areas. Always ask for permission before photographing individuals, particularly during events or in the case of cultural performances.

By showing respect for the local customs and etiquette, you’ll be warmly welcomed in the Hebrides and forge connections with the friendly locals while immersing yourself in the unique atmosphere of these breathtaking islands.

Helpful Phrases in Gaelic

Immerse yourself in the Gaelic culture of the Hebrides Islands by learning a few helpful phrases. While English is widely spoken, using Gaelic greetings and expressions can help you connect with locals and show your appreciation for their heritage. Here are some useful phrases to get you started:

  • Hàlo – Hello
  • Ciamar a tha thu? – How are you?
  • Tapadh leat – Thank you
  • Madainn mhath – Good morning
  • Feasgar math – Good afternoon/evening
  • Oidhche mhath – Good night
  • Fàilte – Welcome
  • Slàinte – Cheers/Good health
  • Le dùrachd – Best wishes
  • Slàn leat – Goodbye (to one person)
  • Slàn leibh – Goodbye (to multiple people or in a formal setting)
  • Ma dh’èirich thu – Excuse me
  • Cùm air adhart – Keep going/Carry on
  • Dè an t-ainm a th’ ort? – What is your name?
  • Tha mi duilich – I’m sorry
  • Dè tha seo? – What is this?
  • Fosgail an dorus, feuch an cuala mi bruadar – Open the door, let me hear a story
  • Gabh mo leisgeul – Excuse me (to get someone’s attention)
  • Tapadh leibh airson taic – Thank you for your help
  • Ciamar a chanas mi…? – How do you say…?

Learning and using these Gaelic phrases will not only help you navigate the Hebrides Islands but also demonstrate your respect for the local culture and provide an opportunity for connection and conversation with Gaelic speakers.

The Hebrides Islands offer a truly enchanting and captivating experience for travelers. From the breathtaking landscapes and rich Gaelic heritage to the warm hospitality of the locals, these Scottish islands have something to offer every visitor.

Whether you’re exploring the rugged mountains of Skye, strolling along the pristine beaches of Harris, or delving into the ancient history of Lewis, the Hebrides promise unforgettable adventures at every turn. Immerse yourself in the rich culture, indulge in delectable seafood and traditional delicacies, and connect with nature through outdoor activities and wildlife spotting.

As you venture through the Hebrides, be sure to embrace the local customs and etiquette, respect the environment, and greet the Gaelic language with a warm “hàlo.” Whether it’s the friendly interactions with locals, the dramatic landscapes that take your breath away, or the taste of traditional dishes, the Hebrides will leave an indelible mark on your heart.

Remember to plan ahead, be prepared for changing weather conditions, and prioritize your safety during your visit. From the stunning castles to the ancient standing stones, the Hebrides’ historical and cultural sites offer a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Scotland’s past.

Whether you’re seeking tranquility, adventure, or a deeper connection with nature and culture, the Hebrides Islands are waiting to be explored. So, pack your sense of adventure and embark on a journey full of unforgettable moments and lifelong memories in these captivating Scottish isles.

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DISCOVER THE HOME OF GAELIC CULTURE AND TRADITIONS

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, consist of 119 islands in total. They are spread out over 130 miles off the northwest coast of the Scottish mainland on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.

Out of all these isles, only five are inhabited. This includes the largest, Lewis and Harris. Although it has two names, they make up one single island with two distinct parts. Lewis, the flatter and more populated part, sits to the north. Harris makes up the more mountainous and secluded part to the south.

The other main inhabited isles are the Uists.

Owing to its historical isolation from the mainland, this remote region is home to over half of Scotland’s remaining Gaelic speakers and a culture that is markedly different from the mainland.

Here you’ll find pristine white sand beaches, ancient standing stone circles, and traditional thatched cottages, among much more. It’s also the place to be if you like traditional craftsmanship. Did you know the famous Harris Tweed has been hand-woven here for generations? Come discover all about it!

Although this region is separated from the mainland, the Outer Hebrides are accessible on a tour of Scotland. You could fly there or take a ferry to tour the islands by car.

Stone Circle on Isle of Lewis and Harris

Stone Circle on Isle of Lewis and Harris

View attractions close by Outer Hebrides

Beaches of luskentyre & scarista, butt of lewis, arnol blackhouse museum, tours including outer hebrides.

You could experience Outer Hebrides through any one of these tours below.

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Scottish highlands & north coast 500, complete scotland at leisure, scottish highlands, north coast 500 & outer hebrides, complete scotland - private, classic scotland & outer hebrides.

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Stories My Suitcase Could Tell

A Mini Travel Guide to Stornoway

October 13, 2016 By Katie MacLeod 15 Comments

Welcome to Stornoway, the gateway to Scotland’s Outer Hebrides !

Stornoway Harbour

As the largest town on the archipelago, the chances are that on any trip to the Outer Hebrides you’ll find yourself in Stornoway at least once.  I t’s the ideal place to start your island journey, and a great base from which to explore Lewis and Harris before moving south, to Uist and beyond.

But don’t let that fool you into thinking Stornoway is simply a launching pad for your Hebridean holiday. Stornoway is more than somewhere to rest your head while you see the tourist sights: it’s a thriving little town in its own right, and deserves its own travel itinerary.

Stornoway: past and present

Stornoway Harbour View

The town’s name comes from Sjornavagr, which is the Old Norse term for ‘steering bay.’ Even during Viking times, it seems, the harbour was busy! According to the Stornoway Historical Society, over the years the town has been a bit of everything: “a medieval castle, a colonial settlement, a Cromwellian fortification, a major fishing port, and centre of the Harris Tweed industry.” Stornoway has certainly had an eventful history so far.

Today, Stornoway is a small harbour town that offers everything a small town elsewhere in Scotland does – and even more besides.  This is a town that still has local butchers and bakers, but the convenience of a handful of high street shops when necessary. It’s one filled with small locally owned businesses, selling everything from clothes to crafts. It’s holding on to its uniquely Hebridean heritage, with Gaelic street signs and traditional music events, while also keeping up with the times.

What to see and do

An Lanntair Stornoway

Start in the centre of town and stroll the pedestrianised streets that are known locally as ‘The Narrows.’

There are plenty of shops to browse here, as well as pubs, butchers, the local art gallery, and the Stornoway Town Hall. On a sunny day I often think you could be mistaken for thinking you were somewhere more tropical, thanks to the brightly painted facades of the buildings!

For culture of all kinds, you can’t miss An Lanntair .

It’s long been one of my favourite spots in town, encompassing an award-winning art centre, shop, cafe, restaurant, cinema, and theatre. Meaning ‘The Beacon’ in Gaelic, it’s certainly a beacon of creativity in the islands. Definitely check out their events calendar when you’re town, as you never know what might be on.

I’ve listened to Jenny Colgan talk about her latest novel, danced the night away to Skerryvore, and watched the Moscow State Ballet pirouette across the stage – there really is something for everyone here.

Listen to some local music.

In the height of the summer, music will be everywhere – on the streets, in the pubs, and on the Castle Green – as part of the annual HebCelt Festival, and the local Mod, a competitive celebration of Gaelic music and culture, which takes place every May.

But even outwith the tourist season, there’s music to be heard, as local pubs often host live music and open-mic nights.

Get out of town!

To see Stornoway from its finest angle, you need to get out of town (well the centre of it, anyway), via a little walk by the harbour. The pontoon berths at the marina were introduced in recent years, and have been a runaway success – t hey’re busy with boats every summer.

Past the statue of the Herring Girl and the fishing boats by the pier, on Bayhead Road you’ll eventually find a little foot bridge that takes you into the Castle Grounds. The views of the town from the Gardener’s Cottage, and Cuddy Point, are truly lovely, and one of my favourite sights in the islands.

Explore the Castle Grounds – by foot or by bike!

Covering more than 200 hectares, the Lews Castle Grounds are a popular recreation spot for those in Stornoway and beyond. (You’ll often meet someone you know while walking round the trails on a sunny weekend afternoon!) They were originally created in the 1850s by Sir James Matheson, and offer hours of exploration through pathways and carriage trails, up steep hills and around the edge of river bends.

Lews Castle Grounds Stornoway

Take a tour of the newly revamped Lews Castle , home to Museum nan Eilean.

The Castle started life in the 1680s as Seaforth Lodge; it wasn’t until Sir James Matheson bought the land in 1840 that  construction began on the building that we know today, using the fortune Matheson had amassed through his role in the opium trade. (In short, the Castle was basically built with drug money from China – how’s that for a bit of scandalous local history?)

Lord Leverhulme bought the island in 1918, modernizing the Castle further, before the building and the land surrounding it came into public ownership in the Twenties. Since then it’s been a World War II naval hospital, student accommodation, and even lain derelict. After extensive renovations, the Castle reopened in 2016, providing a home for the brilliant local museum, a café, shop, and the addition of luxury accommodation from Together Travel Co. Lews Castle is now a must-see on any visit to Stornoway, whether you’re staying there or not.

Lews Castle Stornoway

See the town from above, at the Lewis War Memorial.

The Scottish Baronial Tower – one that reaches 85 feet –  is the Lewis War Memorial, and was constructed in 1924 to commemorate the islanders who lost their lives during World War I; on a clear day it can be seen from many of the roads that approach the town. The hill it occupies, Cnoc nan Uan, also offers far-reaching views of the town and the surrounding villages – some local photographers have taken spectacular photos from this vantage point.

Visit the Iolaire Memorial, dedicated to one of Britain’s worst maritime disasters in peacetime.

Just outside Stornoway, in Holm, sits a memorial to those who died with the sinking of the Iolaire .  It was 31 December 1918, and 284 servicemen were on board, heading back to the islands after the end of World War I.

Most of them never made it, as the Iolaire sank just 20 feet from shore, on the Beasts of Holm; the tragedy affected every village on the island.  The monument to these men sits at the edge of the cliffs in Holm, with panoramic views across the bay to Arnish and Lochs. To visit this beautiful but sombre spot, drive out of town on the road leading towards the airport, or hop on any buses making their way to Point or Parkend.

Iolaire Memorial Isle of Lewis

Visiting with kids?

They’ll want to go wild on the beaches (I certainly did as a child, and still do as an adult! ), but there’s still plenty to keep younger members of the family occupied in the town itself.

There’s the aforementioned Castle Grounds, of course, as well as a soft play area at Adventure Island; the local Sports Centre , which has a swimming pool, climbing frame, squash court, and a small soft play area for pre-schoolers; Bayhead Playpark, which offers a climbing frame, crazy golf, a tennis court, and skate park; and weekly arts activities at An Lanntair.

Where to shop

Invest in a luxury fabric full of heritage, at harris tweed hebrides..

On North Beach Street you’ll find the retail outpost of the largest Harris Tweed producer in the islands, Harris Tweed Hebrides . Whether you’re looking for a sharp blazer (like the one I bought before moving to the USA ), a chic handbag, or even a length of tweed itself, this is the place to splurge.

Get ready for outdoor adventures at Store 67.

The Outer Hebrides offers a wealth of outdoor adventures, from cycling along the Hebridean Way, to climbing the Harris hills, and swimming or paddle boarding in the ocean. And the place to prepare for all of that is Store 67 on Kenneth St, where you’ll find everything from camping gear and paddle boards to yoga equipment and bikes for all ages. (I bought myself a mountain bike there recently, and I spent every sunny day in Lewis cycling to the beach on it!)

Discover something unique at The Blue Lobster.

It’s a coffee shop by the harbour, yes – but The Blue Lobster is also home to a wee lifestyle shop, filled with beautiful homewares, jewellery, and accessories you won’t be able to resist.

Browse books, stationery, and more at the An Lanntair gift shop.

As a stationery addict, I can never resist a browse of the gift shop on the ground floor of the arts centre. But it’s not just paper products they offer: you can choose from local books, artwork, music, and even handmade jewellery.

Keep in mind…

The Visit Scotland outpost and a variety of local newsagents also sell a wide selection of souvenirs, postcards, and local literature.

Where to eat

Fish and chips Lewis and Harris

Delights, for some of the best coffee and cake in town.

With only three small tables squeezed between the counter and the rest of the shop (home to high-end culinary and baking ingredients), you might be tempted to give up on waiting. Don’t! This home baking is some of the best you’ll find, as is the coffee and conversation from the lovely ladies behind the counter.

(I’m not exaggerating when I say that I was in here six days out of seven when I worked in Stornoway!) But if you really can’t wait, there are plenty of good coffee options in town, including The Blue Lobster, the café at An Lanntair, and the Storehouse Café at Lews Castle.

The Good Food Boutique, for takeaway sandwiches and deli delights.  

This is Stornoway’s version of an Italian deli: the counter is heaving under all types of meats, hams, cheeses, and antipasti, while the shelves display a wide selection of harder-to-find cooking ingredients. It’s a great place to pop into for a takeaway sandwich, or to stock up on food for your self-catering holiday kitchen.

The Woodlands Centre, for snacks to keep you going on your tour of the Castle Grounds.

All wood and floor-to-ceiling glass windows, The Woodlands Centre is a lovely, bright spot to have lunch – think wraps, sandwiches, and baked potatoes – before heading off to see more of the Castle Grounds.

One of the many chip shops, for proper Scottish fish and chips.

A good fish supper is one of the meals I miss most as an islander abroad. Order your fish supper from Cameron’s, Church Street, or the Stornoway Chippy, and – if the weather cooperates – sit on the benches in the Narrows, or find a spot near the pontoons, like Perceval Square, where you can feast on your food outside.

A local butcher, for a bite of the infamous Stornoway Black Pudding!

While most restaurants have it on their menus in some form, I recommend visiting the local butchers that produce it, and buying a marag or two vacuum packed to take home. I won’t voice my opinion in the debate on which pudding is best: you’ll have to visit Charlie Barley’s, Willie John’s, and MacLeod & MacLeod to decide for yourself!

Charlie Barley Stornoway Black Pudding

HS-1 Cafe and Bar, for a hearty lunch or delicious dinner.

This my go-to spot for dinner with friends and family. The restaurant’s wide windows offer great views of the Lews Castle, and the atmosphere is modern and laid back. As for the food? Expect anything from beef burgers topped with Stornoway Black Pudding to curry-filled wraps, fresh local mussels, and seafood pastas.

Eleven, for a big buffet dinner.

The restaurant on the ground floor of the Caladh Inn is family friendly (there’s even a small play area for children ), and offers a carvery lunch or dinner for a bargain price. They also host regular ‘themed’ dinner evenings, where you can book in advance to enjoy an evening of food from elsewhere – maybe Mexican, Nepalese, or Indian.

The Thai Cafe, for fresh flavours and a BYOB policy.

For something a little different, book a table at the Thai Café, one of my favourite spots for a celebratory get-together or an easy take away dinner. I can be a creature of habit with food, and nearly always order the peanut chicken curry (the staff are usually surprised when I don’t!), but anything you order on this menu is going to be lovely.

Where to drink

An lanntair, for a pre-dinner cocktail overlooking the harbour..

Head here at the start of your night, not only because it tends to quieten down earlier than some other bars, but because you’ll get a prime view of the sunset over the harbour as the ferry docks for the night.  The sloe gin bramble cocktail here is so good, it’s what first turned me into a gin fan!

The upstairs Harbour Bar at The Crown Inn, for a quiet G&T.

Here you’ll find dark walls decorated with antlers, Harris Tweed accents, and old maps of the Outer Hebrides , all overlooking comfortable leather chairs and a well-stocked bar – the last time I visited, there were over 80 varieties of gin on offer. (The building is owned by the same company as The West Highland Bar I visited on Skye , and you can definitely see the design similarities).

Where to stay

Lews Castle bed

Having spent most of my life living a 15-minute drive from Stornoway, I don’t often stay in the town itself – but there are plenty of different options for visitors of different budgets.

There’s the Heb Hostel on the colourful Kenneth Street; the family of hotels that take in the Caberfeidh, The Royal, and The Caladh Inn; countless B&Bs; and of course, plenty of Air BnB options. I’ve been lucky to spend a night in Lews Castle courtesy of Together Travel Co., and can definitely recommend it for a historic stay on the edge of Stornoway.

Getting there

Stornoway Isle of Lewis

There are two options for arriving in Stornoway: by air, or by sea.

Loganair operates direct flights daily to Stornoway from Inverness (30 minutes), Glasgow (45 minutes), and Edinburgh (1 hour), making Stornoway (and the wider Outer Hebrides) easily accessible from the Scottish mainland.

The ferries that operate in the Inner and Outer Hebrides are run by Caledonian MacBrayne (referred to as ‘CalMac’). The ferry from Ullapool, on the Scottish mainland, gets you to Stornoway in 2 hours 45 minutes. While it’s a longer journey than the one by air, it’s worth doing at least once for the breathtaking scenery.

Getting around

In Stornoway itself, nearly everything is within walking distance.  But if you’re planning on leaving the town – and let’s be honest, you can’t miss these incredible sights ! – you’re going to need to hire a car. Bus services run fairly frequently, but will not allow you the flexibility to see all the islands have to offer.

More information

For the latest information on events in Stornoway, I recommend visiting  welovestornway.com , or checking out the latest EVENTS Newspaper, which you can read online in PDF form , or pick up in print across Lewis and Harris.

(Full disclosure: I’ve worked for this paper for nine years, but it really is your best source for what’s happening in Lewis and Harris. Plus, you’ll get to read more stories by yours truly!)

____________________ 

Have you ever been to Stornoway, or would you like to visit? Where are your favourite spots in the town?

Let me know in the comments below – i’d love to hear from you.

____________________

If you enjoyed this, you might like:

The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

14 Useful Things to Know Before Visiting the Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides Gift Guide

travel guide outer hebrides

October 13, 2016 at 7:06 am

What a great guide! I would love to visit the Outer Hebrides some time, so far I’ve only made it to Skye and the Highlands..

travel guide outer hebrides

October 16, 2016 at 8:01 am

Thanks Maria! Skye and the Highlands are beautiful too, but I hope you make it out to the Outer Hebrides at some point – they’re a little bit magical, I think!

travel guide outer hebrides

October 13, 2016 at 9:24 am

Brilliant and accurate. Brought up here and Mum still here. Offered me some tips. Some places have arrived since I left and I will try them in the evening. Great guide. Well done.

October 16, 2016 at 8:03 am

Thank you so much Jane! I hope you like the new spots – and have a great time 🙂

travel guide outer hebrides

October 15, 2016 at 9:30 pm

Such a wonderful and thorough guide. Stornaway hadn’t been on my radar particularly but reading this has piqued my interest! Will definitely look into a trip if I ever manage to properly explore Scotland in the future.

October 16, 2016 at 8:04 am

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it Lorna! I definitely recommend getting out to the islands on any visit to Scotland 🙂

travel guide outer hebrides

January 25, 2017 at 2:30 pm

I really enjoyed your mini travel guide on ‘ town’ . I travel home each year from Australia, on my next vsit I will view the town through your lens. I am looking forward to seeing the castle reno’s and may even try a segway tour of the grounds.

March 6, 2017 at 8:22 am

Thank you Elaine, I’m really pleased you enjoyed it 🙂 The Castle renovations are lovely (and the segway tours are a great laugh!).

travel guide outer hebrides

May 2, 2017 at 12:58 pm

Hi Katie!! You’ve inspired me to go to Stornoway! I’m liking the idea of taking a bus from Inverness to Ullapool and going over on the ferry. Where is the best place to hire a car? I really appreciate all your wonderful info!

May 3, 2017 at 8:33 am

Thanks Emily – I’m delighted to hear this has inspired you to visit the islands! There are a few places that do car rental in Lewis: Stornoway Car Hire, Car Hire Hebrides, Lewis Car Rental, Arnol Motors… having lived there, I never had a reason to hire a car, but there are plenty of options 🙂

travel guide outer hebrides

July 10, 2017 at 10:10 am

Hi Katie, thank you very much for this mini travel guide to Stornoway! We will visit Lewis&Harris this summer and somehow I was worrying about wether there would be nice restaurants. (We had a bit of a problem last summer on Orkney … with only a handfull of restaurants in Kirkwall and all fully booked.) With your recommendations I am looking forward to dine out in Stornoway!

July 11, 2017 at 7:06 am

I’m so glad it was helpful, Francesca! Outside of Stornoway I would also recommend 40 North Foods, on the West Side of Lewis (you’ll find an article on it on my Outer Hebrides resource page), and North Harbour Bistro on the Isle of Scalpay. They’re two of my favourite food spots in the Hebrides!

travel guide outer hebrides

January 26, 2018 at 5:51 am

My favourite restaurant in Stornoway is Digby Chick’s. Always excellent.

travel guide outer hebrides

March 30, 2021 at 5:55 pm

My wife and i stayed in Stornoway about 2017 and had a fanastic holiday there The crossing from from Ullapool was really good and we loved it The little shops and places to eat are all worth a visit bought a few clothes We then went 0n to Harris and three other islands the scenery and beaches are fantastic we said why go abroad when we have such fantastic places like this and beaches better than some we have been to when abroad Can not wait to be back

March 31, 2021 at 7:57 am

I’m so glad to hear you and your wife had a lovely time in the islands, Bert! (And I completely agree… I don’t think I’ve seen beaches like the ones in Harris anywhere else in the world!) I hope you get to go back for a visit soon when travel opens up again 🙂

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Daily Mail

Latest holiday hotspot for the super rich? The Outer Hebrides!

  • Leading US business magazine highlights isles as one of its top European destinations for summer 2024

With stunning beaches and wild mountain views, they are among Scotland’s most picturesque landscapes.

Now an influential American business magazine for the super-rich has selected the Outer Hebrides as one of its ‘four European island destinations to visit this year’.

Forbes described the islands as having ‘Caribbean vistas with Scottish weather’.

Joining the isles in the top four Forbes list are the Croatian island of Hvar, the volcanic Italian island of Stromboli and Iceland’s picturesque island of Heimaey.

Forbes included the Inner Hebridean island of Tiree in its praise of the Western Isles.

It said: ‘The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, is an archipelago off the West Coast of mainland Scotland comprising over 200 islands stretching over 130 miles.

‘Only a few are fully inhabited, and while tourists often head for the exceptional Isle of Lewis and the Isle of Harris (which are actually one island but referred to as two, partly because their landscapes are so varied), wind lovers would enjoy the Isle of Tiree. It’s the flattest isle, beloved by wind and kite surfers with long Caribbean-white sandy beaches – it’s locally called the Hawaii of the North.

‘Its 650 residents are friendly and welcoming to tourists, who usually arrive in July for the Tiree music festival celebrating Scottish folk.

‘Access to Tiree is by air from Glasgow Airport or by ferry from Oban on the Scottish mainland, on the ferry services provided by Caledonian MacBrayne (locally known as CalMac).

‘The best time to visit any of the islands in the Outer Hebrides is definitely in summer, when the weather is as warm as it will ever be, the days are longer and the sea is a refreshing 50F/14C.’

It added: ‘For anyone searching for a list of islands to visit this year, it’s worth recognising that just in Europe there are over 2,000 populated islands (discounting the European countries that are actually big islands, like the UK and Iceland).

‘So, while Santorini, Sardinia, Ibiza and Mykonos are often the go-to islands in Europe, there are plenty of other lesser known ones that are worth a visit and some will have fewer crowds in 2024.’

The Isle of Tiree is famed for its relatively mild climate. Measuring only 12 miles long and three miles wide, it is small and flat. 

The island is also known for its fertile soils and has a strong crofting heritage.

Tiree is also one of the sunniest places in the UK, and with the moderating influence of the warm Gulf Stream, winter temperatures are generally higher than on the mainland.

Tourism body VisitScotland has even described summer evenings on the island as ‘warm and balmy’.

MailOnline logo

IMAGES

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  2. The Outer Hebrides travel guide

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  3. Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

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  5. Visit Outer Hebrides: 2022 Travel Guide for Outer Hebrides, Scotland

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  6. Grand Tour of the Outer Hebrides

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  1. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides

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  6. Outer Hebrides: An Insider's Travel Guide by Katie MacLeod

    Welcome to the Outer Hebrides - also sometimes referred to as the Western Isles - a beautiful island chain lying 30 miles off the north-west coast of mainland Scotland. These islands span roughly 130 miles, home to a population of 26,000 people. But don't make the mistake of assuming their location at the edge of the Atlantic means they ...

  7. Scotland's Hebrides Islands Travel Guide: NEED TO KNOW Tips

    Isle of Mull - Inner Hebrides. The train station is right next to the ferry port in Oban, so it's extremely easy to catch a connecting ferry ride to the islands. A round-trip ferry ticket from Oban to Craignure, Isle of Mull was less than £10 — which was surprisingly cheap! To get prices on other ferry trips, see CalMac's website.

  8. Outer Hebrides Road Trip: Your 1 Week Itinerary for the Western Isles

    Day 1: Driving through Loch Lomond. Day 2: Oban to Castlebay (Barra) Day 3: Vatersay and exploring Barra. Day 4: Road trip up the Uists, to Harris. Day 5: Road trip round Lewis. Day 6: Road trip round Harris. Day 7: Tarbert to Uig, in Skye. Day 8: Glasgow, and home. Tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip.

  9. The Outer Hebrides Visitor Guide

    Activities. The landscapes of the Outer Hebrides makes it ideal for walking and cycling while the superb Atlantic beaches draw surfers from around the globe. Fishing for salmon and trout, as well as sea angling, is also highly popular. The clear Hebridean waters produce some of the best seafood in the UK. Wildlife.

  10. Outer Hebrides travel

    Europe. The Western Isles, or Na h-Eileanan an Iar in Gaelic - also known as the Outer Hebrides - are a 130-mile-long string of islands lying off the northwest coast of Scotland. There are 119 islands in total, of which the five main inhabited islands are Lewis and Harris (two parts of a single island, although often described as if they ...

  11. Outer Hebrides: travel guide

    The Outer Hebrides islands are on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and are a 130-mile-long string of 119 islands off the north-west coast of Scotland. The islands lie to the west of the area of sea called the Minch which separates them from the Isle of Skye. They are the very edge of the British Isles. Only 14 islands are inhabited and the five ...

  12. Outer Hebrides Travel Information and Guide

    The Outer Hebrides, straddling the edge of Scotland, look the part: high mountains, thrilling cliffs, lonely lighthouses and huge empty landscapes. ... The sights, sounds and flavours of the Outer Hebrides are reason alone to travel to these islands. Yet, along with photographs, you are likely to take away memories of the people you meet ...

  13. Outer Hebrides

    This region travel guide to Outer Hebrides is a usable article. It gives a good overview of the region, its sights, and how to get in, as well as links to the main destinations, whose articles are similarly well developed. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.

  14. Outer Hebrides

    Outer Hebrides travel guide - Holiday tips and expert advice for Lewis, Harris, St Kilda, Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and Vatersay, plus language and wildlife. ... The Outer Hebrides is an archipelago of 14 inhabited islands and more than 50 others that are free of human footprint. Huge variations in landscape ...

  15. Western Isles (Outer Hebrides) travel guide

    Our Scotland travel guide reveals a land full of wildlife, and mountainous and marine magnificence. Western Isles (Outer Hebrides). Honest and easy to read 2 minute summary on exploring the Inner and Outer Hebrides, with the info on the practicalities, wildlife, responsible tourism, as well as an interactive map and highlights.

  16. Best Things To Do On Uist

    A travel guide to Uist in Scotland's Outer Hebrides, including the best beaches, best walks, day trips, accommodation, food, and travel info. DESTINATIONS. ... as part of an Outer Hebrides island hopping adventure which includes Barra, Harris and Lewis, or as a trip all on its own, be sure to allow at least a few days to properly explore ...

  17. Getting Here

    Getting Here. Your Hebridean island journey starts when you travel to our archipelago, just off the North West coast of Scotland. Separated from mainland Scotland by The Minch and Iceland and America by the vast Atlantic Ocean. Getting to the Outer Hebrides is much easier and quicker than you might imagine. From the central belt of Scotland ...

  18. Outer Hebrides Travel Guide: 35 Things to do in Uist

    The Outer Hebrides are a fantastic place to find space to unwind, spend time in nature, enjoy life in the company of your loved ones and wonder and learn about Scottish history and Gaelic culture. The Wellbeing Trail features 41 locations all over the Outer Hebrides that can help you boost your mental and physical well-being.

  19. Scotland's Hebrides Islands Travel Guide: NEED TO KNOW Tips

    Getting to the Hebrides Islands is an adventure in itself. Although situated off the northwest coast of mainland Scotland, there are several transportation options available to reach this remote and picturesque archipelago. 1. By Ferry: One of the most popular and scenic ways to reach the Hebrides is by ferry.

  20. Western Isles (Outer Hebrides) travel guide

    Hebrides (Inner & Outer) travel guide. Honest and easy to read 2 minute summary on exploring the Inner and Outer Hebrides, with the info on the practicalities, wildlife, responsible tourism, as well as an interactive map and highlights. Read on with our Hebrides (Inner & Outer) travel guide.

  21. Outer Hebrides : Travel Guide & Map : Nordic Visitor

    The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, consist of 119 islands in total. They are spread out over 130 miles off the northwest coast of the Scottish mainland on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Out of all these isles, only five are inhabited. This includes the largest, Lewis and Harris.

  22. Stornoway: A Travel Guide to the Capital of the Outer Hebrides

    The ferries that operate in the Inner and Outer Hebrides are run by Caledonian MacBrayne (referred to as 'CalMac'). The ferry from Ullapool, on the Scottish mainland, gets you to Stornoway in 2 hours 45 minutes. While it's a longer journey than the one by air, it's worth doing at least once for the breathtaking scenery.

  23. Latest holiday hotspot for the super rich? The Outer Hebrides!

    It said: 'The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, is an archipelago off the West Coast of mainland Scotland comprising over 200 islands stretching over 130 miles.