blackwork journey blog

• LINKS of DIVERS SORTS
• DESIGNERS and SHOPS

FREE STUFF!

• BEAUTIFUL THINGS BLOGGED
• GALLERY - OUR STITCHERS
• PRACTICAL BLACKWORK DESIGNS
• PRACTICAL STITCHING - getting started
• PRACTICAL BLACKWORK BLOG

   "And for my Countries quiet, I fhould like,  That Women-kinde fhould ufe no other Pike.   It will increafe their peace, enlarge their ftore,  To ufe their tongues leffe, and their Needles more.     John Taylor, "The Needle's Excellency", 1631

FREEBIES FROM THE MANAGEMENT

• Tips & Techniques
•   Search

• Line Stitches & Bands
• Chain, Fly and Buttonhole Stitches
• Detached Stitches & Knots
• Filling Stitches
• Miscellaneous Embroidery Techniques
• Embroidery Stitches by Name, from A-Z
• Hand Embroidery Lessons & Step-by-Step Projects
• Tips Especially for Beginners
• Transferring Patterns
• Hoops, Frames and Stands
• Individual Stitches & Techniques
• Drawn Thread Embroidery Tips
• On Specific Tools
• Free Hand Embroidery Patterns
• Hungarian Embroidery Patterns
• Monograms for Hand Embroidery
• Church / Ecclesiastical Embroidery Patterns
• Online Resources
• Book Reviews
• Free Books Online
• Embroidery Supplies

Mary Corbet

writer and founder

I learned to embroider when I was a kid, when everyone was really into cross stitch (remember the '80s?). Eventually, I migrated to surface embroidery, teaching myself with whatever I could get my hands on... read more

Daily Email

Connect with Mary

© 2024 Needle 'n Thread. All Rights Reserved. Terms of Use Privacy & Disclosure

Ad 8: Curated Books

Ad 3: Thistle Threads

Ad 7: Haystack

Ad 7: Needle ‘n Thread

Ad 6: Inspirations Studios

January 23, 2014

Speaking of Blackwork & Projects, This Looks Fun…

Amazon Books

Were we speaking of blackwork? Well, we were last week !

You know I have this thing for “ 15 Minute Projects ” and “grab and go” projects. That’s what the Hungarian Runner is right now. And when the Hungarian runner is finished, I’m going to need another “15 minute” project to fill in those 15-minute gaps this year.

Now, granted, I do have the Secret Garden projects going, but those are “studio” projects – I work on them in my workroom only, because that’s where I can photograph things, take good notes, and prepare overly wordy articles for you.

So, it just so happens that there’s a really neat (and free) year-long blackwork sampler developing over on Liz Almond’s site, Blackwork Journey .

If you’re an “on the grid” stitcher (or an “off the grid” stitcher who would like to become more familiar with blackwork), you might want to check out Liz’s “Save the Stitches” project that she is offering in chunks over the year. It’s a Big sampler of blackwork patterns, arranged in a neat overall design.

The first two PDFs for the project are already on the site – the cover page and Block 1 . The instructions come with a materials list and a grid. They don’t come with specific instructions in blackwork, which is essentially Holbein stitch (also called double or reverse running stitch), or you could, if you wanted, use regular backstitch .

I’m thinking that this would be a fun “ 15 Minute Project ” for this year, once I’ve finished with the Hungarian runner. I don’t often stitch on the grid, but I like blackwork. I like patterns in general.

If you are looking for a nice counted project to develop over the year, check out Liz’s “Save the Stitches” project on Blackwork Journey ! It looks like a lot of fun, and, if I ever finish that riffemrackemfrickemfrackem redwork runner, I’m planning to take it up, too. We could forge through it together – in 15 minute spurts.

I’ll let you know when I get to that point.

Looking for more information on blackwork? Check out these articles on Needle ‘n Thread:

RSN Stitch Guide for Blackwork – Book Review Developing a Spot Sampler: A Little Blackwork Free Blackwork Pattern: Autumn Leaves Free Blackwork Pattern: Trees Developing Blackwork Fillings: Variations Developing Blackwork Fillings: More Variations

Leave A Comment Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

24 thoughts on “ Speaking of Blackwork & Projects, This Looks Fun… ”

(24) comments.

Thank you so much for posting this!! I have been wanting to learn Blackwork for such a long time and I love Liz Almond’s designs (have quite a few). This will be such a wonderful introduction and a great way to learn stitches.

Wow this looks like fun! Thank you Mary for bringing this to our attention. Great ’15’ minute project!

Oh Mary, you are tempting me with all these projects. I have always wanted to do blackwork…I just may do this one.

What was that you said about the Redwork Runner? Rijghpkoigjqovrjiohuhgaxzwoj? Lol, just kidding. I know what you said (and what you mean!) I am planning on starting an embroidery project today if I have time (you know, with school and chores and all). I’m using your Whitework Hearts Doily pattern (If I remember correctly) from Lilly’s Legacy. I think that those patterns are truly beautiful and very impressive. I can’t wait to start!

thanks for this Mary, I LOVE blackwork. i’m not sure I’ve got time for any more challenges/projects this year, but I may squeeze it in. thanks for the link to the Holbein stitch too, I started blackwork doing back stitch but I realise that as I progressed, I started doing the Holbein stitch without know that I should or even that I was!

What a wonderful project ! Thanks for sharing ! Thanks also for all of the wonderful resources that you provide for us. Your site is always a ‘bright spot’ in each day.

Fantastic!! Absolutely Fantastic!!! I have seen Liz’s designs at Nordic Needle I think but have never pursued them. I just spent about 20 minutes at her site–I did download the Save the Stitches design and another one—I could easily spend the rest of the morning looking at all the things she has and reading. I am preparing a program on Blackwork for my EGA chapter so this couldn’t come at a better time. Will alert the members of your article and Liz’s. Thank you so much. JoyceAnne

Good grief Mary, “riffemrackemfrickemfrackem”, have you been reading a ‘The Wizard of Id’ comic too? I put one down just 1/2 and hour ago….This is the Wizard’s version while casting a spell…”frannis in the jim jam frippen on a philtz frappis in the frammin witha frim fram JILTZ!” When he’d finished the spell the genie thing that lives in the magic tub asked the Wizard if he’d like that on an LP or a Single?! Got a little 15 minute increment to fit some recording into your week? You’ve got the words, you just need the tune now. Not like the kid whose turn it was to say the 3 times tables. “Dha dha da dhaa, dha dha da dhaa” over and over he repeated. “Johnny, what are you doing” the teacher exclaimed. “Got the tune miss but just can’t get the words” explained the unabashed Johnny! Now, this blackwork, I’m excited about that. Thank you for the info on it and look forward to your working on it in the future. Cheers, Kath

Heh heh. It’s my favorite term for frustration, Kath! Comes from Yosemite Sam, in the old Bugs Bunny cartoons!

Thanks for this New site. I love Blackwork, it is my 15 minutes project,I have small squares (3×3) going at all times,I like praticing these lovely designs. I have bookmark this site for further browsing. Good day to you France from Canada

I’ve been wanting to learn black work and this looks perfect! It also meets my goal for playing with new techniques this year. I think I’m doing it!!!

Thank you Mary for sharing this. Black work is definitely something that I want to learn to create portraits, and thank you for your answer yesterday’s post. I will start rinse all my fabrics before I embroider on it.

Counted stitch patterns don’t really interest me, nor does blackwork (and I have too many projects as it is)…… BUT — that design would be perfect for a lattice sampler, no? Love those geometric shapes!

Save the Stitches sounds like a great 15 minute blackwork project and would certainly keep you busy on those long journeys. Very interesting designs and would be fun to do. But with all the other projects in mind after I’ve completed my riffemrackemfrickemfrackem last little thing I’m thinking of beading maybe making an antique beaded bag which could incorporate tambour beading I’m musing on that one I will have to get a lot of practising in beforehand. Thanks for sharing the site information.

Regards Anita Simmance

Oh yes, do the beaded bag, Anita! Would love to see that!

something new to learn! Thanks for this wonderful resource!

Thanks muchly for posting this. I’m grabbing a copy to do.

Clicked. Downloaded. Will find fabric this weekend – and may do in a scrumptious overdye instead….

Have you seen this? It gives some profound meaning to “hand embroidery.”

http://elizabennett.co.uk/A_womans_works_is_never_done.html

I’m reading up on, and hoping to attempt blackwork. I’ll begin on Aida cloth as a starting point to learning the technique.

I can’t find info on whether or not you need to wash the cloth first, as you do with regular cottons?

I think most stitchers who use Aida cloth don’t wash it first, but if it has noticeable creases in it, it doesn’t hurt to give it a good rinse and iron!

I’m not going to start another project, I’m not going to start another project, I’m not going to start another project …

*looks down to see Joann’s bag with the thread and cloth needed for this project*

It just magically appeared in my hand, I swear!

Oh gosh, you just made me laugh out loud! Thank you!

Thank you for posting this Mary – I checked out Liz’s site and I know I will be using some of her designs in my crazy quilting projects. Someday I plan to do an entire blackwork piece too.

• Blackwork Embroidery

Blackwork embroidery is a very old form of counted-thread embroidery. Because many of the designs are geometric it is most often stitched on an even-weave fabric. Despite the name "Blackwork" it was also done in blue, green, gold or silver. Linen or cotton was the primary fabrics since the original purpose of Blackwork was for costume adornment such as the shirt cuff pictured above.

Is it Moroccan, Spanish, or English?

Centuries before it became known as Spanishwork, the Moors in North Africa were decorating their garments with motifs and borders. The Moors moved into southern Spain in the 8th century influencing the needlework of Toledo, Almeria, and Andalusia. In the Andalusia region, the designs were very geometric using one color, but not necessarily black. A tan or blue embroidery on a natural linen was common in the Toledo region.

Most sources credit Katharine of Aragon for introducing Blackwork to England when she came to marry King Henry VIII. It was traditionally embroidery in black silk on white linen for clothing. Because Katharine was from Spain, it was known as "Spanish work" for about fifty years. During this period, only the elite wore such attire. While the garments were simple in shape, they were embroidered with gold and silk. Blackwork was not only decorative, but served a purpose to reinforce cuffs and hems. The embroidery thread was often a dark color to help disguise dirt. Blackwork was a wonderful way to decorate cuffs and collars as the design can be worked so that it is the same on the top and on the bottom of fabric.

The male dress was unique as it was designed to create bulk and thereby a sense of masculinity through the use of many layers. The men’s’ shirts were very expensive and often worn open. Even if you were of the means to afford to embroider your own clothing, an Act of Parliament in 1553 forbid anyone below the level of knight to wear pleated shirts or plain shirts garnished with silk gold, or silver. The gold embroidery thread was called silver-gilt. It was made by coating a silver wire with a thin sheet of gold. The wire was hammered into strips which were then wrapped around silk thread.

After Katharine’s divorce from King Henry in 1533, the term "Spanish work" was replaced with "Blackwork".

A very important event for needle workers occurred in the 16th century. Queen Elizabeth encouraged the improvement of book production. Many books were printed using wood cut illustrations of plants and animals. In 1548 one of the first embroidery pattern books was printed in England. Thomas Geminus engraved the plates on copper and the book was entitled Moryssche & Damaschin renewed and increased very profitable for Goldsmiths and Embroiderers . It featured arabesque designs and was quickly popular among Blackwork embroiderers. Other books began to be published illustrating the strange flora and animals English traders and explorers were discovering in the new world. By the 18th century Blackwork started to fall out of use and never really got established in America.

Work Basket

Fabric – Because the patterns are often geometric patterns, the fabric must have a precise even weave. Blackwork can be worked on any even weave fabric from a 14-count Aida to a 36-count Edinburgh. It is up to you! Hardanger fabric is an excellent choice as it is firm and easy to count. Here are several category links to some excellent fabrics:

Threads – Blackwork is a traditionally done in a monochromic theme so the thread and fabric need to contrast. Several sources suggest using one strand of thread so it will lay flat. If a thicker line is desired, change to a thicker thread or double your threads (working with more than two threads together is not recommended as flatness and smoothness of threads is much more difficult to control). When referencing several designers and what they suggest, it appears you are only limited by your imagination. Some of their recommendations are (click on the links to view our categories):

• Au ver a Soie d’Alger silk
• Waterlilies
• Floss ( DMC , Anchor )
• Perle (pearl) cotton in any size (even found one pattern that uses size 3) Click here to see all of our equivalent pearl cotton in black

Various types of metal threads can be combined with Blackwork. The patterns I reviewed used Kreinik Blending Filament, #4, and #8.

• Click here for all of Kreinik metallics

Needles must slide cleanly between the threads of the fabric, so a tapestry needle is recommended. Depending on the size of your thread you may need Tapestry needles in sizes #24, 26, and 28.

Patterns can be purchased from a designer. You can also do like the folks in the 15th and 16th century, look at books with illustrations, especially those done in wood cuts. You can also design your own patterns using graph paper.

Equipment – You want to keep your stitches and tension even, so a hoop or frame would be a good investment. If you are working with a stiffer linen fabric, you’ll want to make sure that when you’re done stitching to remove the hoop as your fabric will crease significantly if left in a hoop too long. Here are some hoops we recommend:

• Spring Tension Hoop – 5″ (plastic)
• Embroidery Hoop – Plastic 4.5″ x 9″ Oval
• 10″ Embroidery Lap Frame
• The Lap-Stitch Mini-Mini Frame

An excellent tool for Blackwork, especially when worked in the traditional Holbein (or double running) stitch, is a laying tool. If you are working with silk or other natural fibers it is a must-have item to retain consistency and to achieve the most even stitches with limited “shadowing” when laying your threads.

• Best Laying Tool (BLT) – Shay Pendray
• Wooden Laying Tool & Case – Cocobolo Rosewood
• Celtic Laying Tool

Tips & Tricks

You should start in the center of the chart. This will help ensure symmetry and help discover any mistakes early. One really nice thing about Blackwork patterns is there is no right or wrong way to work them. You can work left to right, right to left, top to bottom or bottom to top, whatever works for you.

You want to work your piece using the Stab and Stitch. This is where the needle comes straight up from under the fabric then it is inserted straight down. This makes your stitches much more consistent. (This differs from the sewing method where you bring your needle up and across and back down into the fabric in a rocking motion.) When working the Holbein stitch there are a few different methods you can use depending on what type of look you prefer – you can pierce your original threads evenly through the middle, or come up above, or below, the original stitch. Each method has its own look, so make sure that if you start working your piece in one method, to finish it in that method!

Blackwork is done in a series of short stitches. Your finished piece will lay nicer if you use short stitches rather than be tempted to make long stitches instead. Whenever you see lines cross on a pattern you need to make them short stitches that end at the crossed point. Do not use long stitches that cross over the top of each other.

Marion Scoular gives some great tips in her book Why Call it Blackwork? . She talks about Blackwork pattern types as being Diaper, Repeat, or Linear patterns.

• Diaper patterns when turned 90 or 45 degrees does not change the original pattern.
• Repeat patterns have motifs that are separated but repeated.
• Linear patterns are those where you see horizontal, vertical, diagonal or oblique stripes.

There are several ways to create texture, depth, or shading in Blackwork:

• Add stitches where you want more shading
• Use two shades of a color within a pattern, light colored stitching in front and dark colored stitching in back will help create depth
• Use two different thickness of thread
• Substitute metallic thread for part of the pattern
• Add beads or sequins for special effect

Techniques to Try

Double Running Stitch or Holbein Stitch is the traditional stitch which allows you to make perfectly reversible pieces that you cannot achieve using back stitch. Here is a free pattern with great instructions.

• http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/free-blackwork-pattern.html

Back Stitch can be used for the outline.

To honor this great needlework technique, we’ve created a free Blackwork ornament pattern. This ornament was worked with two different threads in the traditional Holbein stitch and was made into a reversible ornament. We thought it would be great to hang on our tree so we have it shown in a clear glass ornament, showcasing the reversibility!

• Click here to download the FREE pattern!

Inquiring Minds

Q. I hear people talk about mapping your journey. What is a journey? A. The journey is the route you take while you are stitching to ensure full reversibility while using the Holbein stitch. This journey differs for every pattern (and every stitcher!) and can be quite mind-boggling for the beginner, or advanced, depending on the complexity of the pattern (Celtic knots in double-running stitches does not a happy Ryan make!). When you’re working your double-running stitch, you will only see half of your stitches from the front of your fabric, so you not only have to decide which directions you are taking going forward, but you also must consider your return route back to “fill in” the missing stitches. Usually you work your way down the straight lines of your pattern, only deviating from the straight path to stitch the branches of the pattern. Here are some excellent diagrams of basic journeys that have been mapped out from start to finish:

• http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_stitch.html

Q. Do I do the outline first or the filler stitches? A. The order you decide to do your stitching is really up to you. Some designers say to do the outline first, while others tell you to do the filler stitches first. I would recommend doing the stitching in the order the designer recommends until you have a little experience, then do what works best for you.

Q. Do I have to have an outline? A. No, you can do a pattern without an outline. Depending on the subject, it might be better not to have an outline. Check out this link to see trees worked without borders . This article also has a wonderful example of using different weighs of thread.

Q. I’m confused! What is the difference between Blackwork and Assisi embroidery? A. Assisi embroidery is counted-thread embroidery, also known as “voided technique”, that uses filler stitches (usually cross-stitch) to fill in the background of a pattern, leaving the main design unstitched. This technique creates striking contrasting images and designs. Sometimes Assisi is combined with Blackwork to create central designs in Assisi with elegant and decorative scrollwork and motifs in Blackwork framing the main element. Assisi is a needle art form originating in Italy. Assisi is the Italian town associated with the revival of the form. You can find more information about Assisi embroidery at this link: Embroidery and embroiderer, Assisi embroidery: about the style

Q. What about Redwork? Is that just Blackwork using red threads? A. Redwork is an embroidery technique that uses cotton threads. The original dyeing process that made the usually non-colorfast red threads to become colorfast was originally made in Turkey, allowing the red threads to be used for more practical and every-day items without the problem of bleeding. Because of this sometimes Redwork is referred to as Turkey Redwork (not to be confused with Turkeywork however). There are many different facets of Redwork which differentiates it from Blackwork – the predominant use of cotton (not silk) fibers, used more on quilting and linens rather than clothing, uses a muslin (non-counted) fabric, and the stitches consist of stem, outline, and the Kensington split stitch. Funny enough though, there was a subcategory of “red” Blackwork that still adhered to the original techniques and used silk fibers, but this embroidery was referred to as “Scarletwork”.

Meet some Designers

Blackwork journey – elizabeth almond.

Elizabeth Almond sometimes combines several techniques in her designs for stunning outcomes. Her Blackwork patterns often have striking color and patterning additions as well. Here are some of her beautiful Blackwork designs:

• Wandering Star
• Butterfly Kisses
• Needlework Accessories

SEBA Designs

• Click here to view the wonderful selection we have for SEBA Designs

Visit Banu’s site for some free patterns: http://www.sebadesigns.com/

Stitchin’Spiration

I love the heading of Sally’s web page : "A Hobby gone wild, or a Dream come true". Sally Rudkin describes herself as "Daughter, Wife, Sister, Christian, Southerner (despite my Yankee roots), American, Designer, Human, Food provider & ball thrower (to Jack, our Lab), Geek." She has a fabulous website where you can scroll through her blog and find out the inspirations behind some of her designs. Sally is not afraid to use color in her patterns.

Calico Crossroads

Linda and her husband Jim are the principals of Calico Crossroads. Linda does the designing, digitizing, charting, stitching, finishing and framing. Jim does the photography and some digital imaging and accounting. They are celebrating their 15th year in business. Linda says "There are two aspects of designing that I find the most rewarding and fun. One is the unfettered freedom of expression. The other is hearing from stitchers how much they enjoy my designs. It makes me very happy to know that I’ve brought a little joy and beauty to someone’s life." You probably think about "Kats by Kelly" when you hear the name "Calico Crossroads." Check out their website to meet the cats and designer.

Berlin Embroidery Designs

Tanja Berlin has been a professional embroidery teacher and designer for over 10 years. She has a very impressive background which you can read about at her website .

Laura J. Perin Designs

Laura has a couple of Blackwork designs you might be interested in:

• Blackwork Patterns
• Blackwork Embroidery – Elisabeth Geddes and Moyra McNeil.
• Beginner’s Guide to Blackwork by Lesley Wilkins
• The New Anchor Book of Blackwork Embroidery stitches
• Why call it Blackwork? By Marion Scoular
• Blackwork & Holbein Embroidery – Ilse Altherr
• The Complete International Book of Embroidery – Mary Gostelow, Simon & Schuster, New York, New York, 1977
• Blackwork, Marion Scoular, Leisure Arts leaflet 82, 1976
• For those really technical folks out there, here is a paper written by Joshua Holden on The Graph Theory of Blackwork Embroidery: http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~holden/Preprints/blackwork.pdf

Free charts and additional information links:

• This site has some historical pictures and a nice bookmark with well illustrated instructions on how to map the journey. http://www.geocities.com/monstonitrus/a_and_s/blackwork/blackwork.html
• http://www.rainbowgallery.com/freechartdownloads.cfm?ID=14
• http://www.blackworkarchives.com/index.html
• http://www.needlepoint.org/Archives/Blackwork/Article.php

We hope this guide makes your stitching easier and more enjoyable!

For those interested in using this article or others published by Nordic Needle, Inc., please use this copy when referencing the information:

“The following article was published by Nordic Needle in their weekly e-mail newsletter. Permission was granted to share this article in (name of your publication). For information on subscribing to their newsletter, visit www.nordicneedle.com .”

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

• Kanzashi Fabric Folding
• Native American Beadwork
• Finger Weaving
• Tassel Making
• Bargello (Canvaswork)
• Canvaswork vs. Needlepoint
• Cornucopia of Canvaswork
• Chicken Scratch
• Crazy Quilt Embellishing
• Crazy Quilt Beading
• Teaching Cross Stitch
• Felt Applique
• Brazilian Embroidery
• Colcha Embroidery
• Candlewick Embroidery
• Crewel Embroidery
• Embroidery 101
• Embroidery for Children
• Embroidery on Paper: Scrapbooking
• Embroidery on Paper: Holiday Gift Tags
• Goldwork 101
• Needlepainting
• Hemstitching
• Bobbin Lace
• Turkish Oya
• Romanian Point Lace
• Locker Hooking
• 3-D Needle Felting
• Pulled Thread
• Punchneedle
• 101: Hardanger
• 201: Hardanger
• 301: Hardanger
• 401: Hardanger
• Hardanger Basics: Weaving
• Hardanger Edgings
• 2012 Advanced Filling Stitches
• Hooked on Hedebo (Roger Buhr)
• Huck (Swedish Weaving)
• Wessex Embroidery
• Punto Antico
• Ukrainian Drawn Thread
• Mountmellick

Blackwork Lessons

Where art, philosophy & geometry meet.

“Hello…It’s Me…

…I’ve thought about us for a long, long time”  (sing along with Todd Rundgren)

Yup.  I’ve thought about us for a long, long time.  Through two computers, in fact.  I have killed two computers in one year!  And frankly dealing with anything computer-ish has been sickening for me!

Actually, I have been loving being computer-free!  I’ve had a lot more time for stitching and reading.  I’ve participated in a few stitch-alongs (SALs).  A couple have been blackwork!

One of three blackwork finishes in the past year.

This is the beginning of a SEBA SAL around Xmas 2013

SAL by Brodeuse Bressane

Currently…

I’m working on three SALs and in the last two weeks of a design class with Sharon Boggon .  The first project in the class was a monotone piece.  I used a kaleidoscope image of one of the patterns in the chess board that I made for Jeff.   Here’s the finished class piece:

Some old blackwork fill patterns mixed with some modern threads, a few canvas stitches, some embroidery stitches, and some beading!

Would you like to join me in the two blackwork SALs I’m doing?

Both are year-long projects.  One is a quick to stitch canvas take on Sashiko, very much like blackwork.  You could be caught up in less than a week.  The pattern is updated on the first of every month and is FREE .  You can find it (and a lot of other cool patterns) at Blue Dogwood Designs .  I am using my own colorway.

My own rainbow colorway.

The other SAL is more time-consuming but a true joy for the blackwork freak ( a non-derogatory 1970s term for someone loves something almost to the exclusion of all else !)  You will learn oodles and oodles about “journeys.”  You don’t have to do this as a reversible piece; in fact, I don’t think you can.  But you can practice tracking journeys so your backs will be very neat so when you want to do a reversible piece, you will feel more than ready.

In fact, for the first blocks I will be posting pics and notes about how I tackled each block so you have as few dark threads crossing as possible on the back side.  So if you’re anxious about how to tackle the more complex pattern, we can talk about it here.  We can help one another!

The best news is that the piece is designed by Elizabeth Almond, one of my blackwork heroines!  The design is called “Saving the Stitches.”  Here’s a bit of my work.  I’ve gotten quite a bit further on, but don’t have it photographed yet.  But, I think this will entice you to try your hand at this free pattern, too.

This the first 3 blocks. Not all metallics have been added yet.

Shows work a bit more clearly. I am loving stitching this. You will, too!

Are you convinced yet?  Get the pattern at Elizabeth Almond’s website with new installments on the first of the month every month for a year or so!  When you are ready to share your progress send me a note so I can link to your blog or website!

The Trouble With Trebizond

When i started to stitch on my blackwork thread sampler project i wrote this:.

Product image from http://www.purlsoho.com “I was going to use the  Trebizond  for the cover because it’s so shiny and pretty.  But I didn’t like working with the silk.  Let me be more specific.  I did not like working with stranded Trebizond.  I will do some more research to find out if there is a way to handle stranding the twisted silk so it will handle more neatly in the stitching.”

Today I was reading Mary Corbet’s newsletter and learned how to handle Trebizond  and other filament silks.  I thought you might be interested in the info, too.  Also, by putting the link here in my blog, I will always be able to find the info when I pull that Trebizond out to make the Trebizond page in the Thread Sampler book!

And how about that  as an old friend used to tell me:.

“Bury a rock and save two birds!”

Blackwork SAL Starting May 17

Avis of “Oh Sew Tempting” is organizing a Mystery Stitch Along at her blog.  It will feature a design she has created.  Get the details at her blog .  I don’t think you have to do anything to join.  Just show up!  I’m going to!

I just finished my Seba Claire93 SAL that Avis mentions.  You can read about it and see it on the latest The Shop Sampler post .

SAL combo cross stitch blackwork 1st part

Jump in! The water’s fine!

Blackwork Journey

Reversible Blackwork: stitching the same on both sides of the canvas

The word journey keeps coming up for me these days.  Of course, thinking about the word journey leads me to think about blackwork stitching, especially reversible blackwork. (We’ll look at blackwork journeys much more closely in the future.)

It also makes me think of my two blackwork design projects, the mystery sampler and the thread sampler fabric book.

Since I’ve started my virtual apprenticeship with Leslie Rinchen-Wongmo to learn the process of creating Tibetan Buddhist thangkas , I was reminded that concentrating on the end product is not as valuable as attending to what is learned in “ the journey .”

This is so true when I consider my impetuous and rather simple-minded plan to design a blackwork sampler.  By the time I’ve completed the design I will have learned about

• thread and it’s interaction with ground fabric and one thread’s relationship to other threads
• shading in blackwork by working with different numbers of strands of thread as well as different weights of thread
• the process of design , kind of like how a child learns plaids don’t necessarily go with paisley
• cultures that have been using blackwork in their designs for centuries
• innumerable resources.that I can catalog and share here
• and I will have met quite a number of people

Already I have learned

• to slow down and look more closely at details, the small bits.   (I’ve always been a big picture kind of person.)  This requires a bit a patience
• to accept that this blog is about sharing with others and documenting my process and interaction with blackwork embroidery.  It is not about producing something that will earn me followers and get big numbers.  (Although it is always nice to know you are not the Lone Ranger!)
• loads about balance, not just in design, but in daily life .   I’ve always been kind of an all or nothing sort of person.  But so much is missed when you don’t follow “ the middle way, ” looking all ways along the way.

I am enjoying this journey.  And, after all, stitching is supposed to be fun!

What does your stitching life teach you?  How has stitching changed your life in little ways or big?  What kind of Journey are you taking?  Are you on the Blackwork Journey with me?

Giveaway over at The Shop Sampler

This is what i’m doing at the shop sampler.  join in if you like, hurricane sandy embroidery pattern giveaway.

I’m slowing but surely getting back to regular life given traveling, the leg injury, and frozen shoulder—just like those effected and affected by Frankenstorm Sandy.

I have purchased an extra of a charming pattern created over at  The Floss Box  to help support the financial efforts of recovery from Sandy.  This is the image:

This pattern is being sold as a fund raiser for Frankenstorm Sandy survivors.

I will give my extra copy to the 13th person to like and/or comment on this post.

For those of you who would like to do the same on your blogs, here is the link to the page at The Floss Box.

http://www.theflossbox.com/store/pattern/sandy-cross-stitch

Go to The Shop Sampler if you’re interested in participating.

I am taking a break from blogging (“Again?!,” you say) for a couple of weeks.  I have had a severe injury and we are heading south on October 15.  So, I need to heal, do what I can to help get things stowed away for hauling the trailer, and then have my 35 stitches removed.

If interested, you can read the saga at my latest post at The Shop Sampler .  Since then I have developed what looks to be a giant blood blister under one half of the stitching that I am hoping will resolve without becoming an open area, compromising the stitching.  The good news is that the hospital my Doc works at has a top rated wound care center .  I can vouch for it personally having been a patient there for several months after an annual visit to the barbaric practice of mammography.  The pressure caused a cyst to erupt and I ended up with an incredible mess that had to be debrided under general anesthesia. Thermal mammography is the only way for me now!

I am going to start the blackwork stitching, i.e., prep the fabric by hemming .  Will let you know when we get to Alabama unless I’m able to sit for hours in front of the computer before then, not to mention run around to prep photos, and all the other stuff that goes into a post.

Thread Sampler Cover

I have been working diligently on my Thread Sampler .  It’s unfortunate that life keeps getting in the way or I’d be onto the first page of threads!

I finally came up with a title for my fabric book.  I wanted something that sounded kind of Medieval and definitely wanted to use an old English script for the lettering.

Specimens of Threads Sampled by Julie Castle

The lettering:

I like the letters, but not the spacing

The little numbers represent the width and height of each word.

I like the lettering which I found on the (free!) alphabets pattern page at  Embroidery and Embroider .  But I decided I want only one space between letters, two between words on the same line, and three between lines.

I don’t like the program I used to graph this.  It’s really hard to move things around and copy and paste repeats.  So where I would expect to graph in an ‘ e’ once and copy and paste where needed repeatedly I ended up graphing it over and over.  Very tedious. Graphing colors could be easier, too.  In November I’ll be taking Sharon Boggin’s course on using GIMP which I’m hoping will be the answer to my design software needs and wants.

I am loving the Kreinik silk Mori thread.  It is so soft it makes me think of one of my favorite scarves/shawls.  A very warm and comforting feeling.  But I ran out.  Actually I should have had enough to do the full cover, but I think the last length of six strands walked away with a dog (most likely my black and silver mini schnauzer, Taz ) and is probably hanging in a bush outside somewhere.  Ah well, a bird or chipmunk will have access to some real luxury nest material!  Next week I’ll go to my favorite local shop and pick up a couple more skeins.

Title of the thread sampler fabric book stitched thus far in cross stitch with Kreinik Silk Mori, two plies of black

And here is the back of this piece:

This is the backside of the stitching thus far. It is not supposed to be reversible, just very neat.

Part of the reason I wanted the space between the letters to be one stitch width is so I don’t have to worry too much about being able to see lines of black thread being carried from letter to letter from the front.  I use a loop method or away knot to start my threads and bury them as soon as I finish a length of thread.  In this way I can assess my neatness as I go and there will be no disappointments when the piece is completed.

Now, on to the actual thread samples and the pages of this fabric book!

When we get to Alabama for the winter I will order some fabric for the book cover that will frame the title stitching.  I’m thinking a brocade , something sturdy and heavy.  I like this and this , too.  I’ve done some research on what might have been used in early book binding  and really don’t want to use leather as my sewing machine probably wouldn’t be able to handle it.

Which of the cover fabrics do you like best?  You might want to seriously consider this question because if I order too much I may just have to give the extra away to some lucky reader!  I’ll keep you posted!

Blackwork Thread Sampler Continues

I have stitched my first stitches on my blackwork thread sampler  feels good  of course, i’ve already had my first snag..

I was going to use the Trebizond for the cover because it’s so shiny and pretty.  But I didn’t like working with the silk.  Let me be more specific.  I did not like working with stranded Trebizond.  I will do some more research to find out if there is a way to handle stranding the twisted silk so it will handle more neatly in the stitching.

Instead I decided to use an old faithful— Mori stranded silk from Kreinik .  I have used this before and enjoyed it.  It is soft, but strong.  It does not fuzz up while you’re stitching, nor does it break as some threads do.  It is a matte finish, but I can live with that.

So, what exactly am I stitching?  Let me back up a step or two.

I mentioned before there are some factors to consider before laying thread to fabric.  And these are the factors:

• The threads should be identified clearly in the sample or there should be a legend that will never be separated from the sampler.
• The threads should be used as fully as they would in any worked piece.  In other words, if the thread is a stranded one, then strand usage should be incorporated to the piece.
• The sampler should answer any question a person might have about the thread as used in any type of work.
• The threads sampler should show very clearly the differences between the various thread samples.

I also said that I wanted this work to be like the Encyclopedia Britannica of blackwork thread usage.   For those who don’t know what the Britannica was, it was a reference book, the oldest English language encyclopedia in fact.

So, I’m making a book!  A fabric book!

It took me a while to find information about how to construct a fabric book.  I had a basic Idea, but I really am not interested in trial and error when it comes to finishing.  I want a fail-safe method that will make me proud to show my work to others.  I found a very nice answer at Shade Tree Art .  My model will be my take on Shade Tree’s model.

• My cover will be the title stitched in black silk on linen.  This piece will be bordered with the “cover fabric.”
• Each page of the book will be devoted to one thread.
• There will be a Table of Contents identifying the order of the threads sampled.
• I will leave several end pages to accommodate threads that will come to market in the future.
• I’m not sure if I want each page to be the linen with the thread sample or a muslin page that I appliqué the stitch sample onto.
• If I do attach the sample to a foundation page, I will embroider the page number and identifier info onto the foundation fabric to show how the thread handles on a different ground.

Boy, this is a lot of work to do just to stitch a sampler!  But I’m loving every minute of it, truly a labor of love energized by passion!

What do you think about item 5?  Should the stitched sample be applied to a foundation page or be the actual page itself?  Tomorrow I’ll show you where things are at with the cover.  And for now I’m going to go stitch on it some more.  Feedback, people, feedback!

Ort: noun Usually, orts. a scrap or morsel of food left at a meal. In this case bits of thread left from stitching! Pattern for Ort Box Designed by Marilyn Owen Color Design by Julie Castle

Just a quick note to let you know I have posted something I think is important on The Shop Sampler about the increase of infringement of confidential and copyrighted information on the internet.  Would love to hear your thoughts on the subject.

Also I’ve been updating some info on my pages (see tabs associated with header.)  Still checking links, was surprised to see Seba Blackwork Designs web address had changed.  Good thing I’m checking!

Preparing for a dinner party and my current TAST challenge, so will catch up with Blackwork this weekend!  BTW, my Trebizond silk has been ordered and is on its way here!  Yea!

• Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
• Subscribe Subscribed
• Report this content
• View site in Reader
• Manage subscriptions
• Collapse this bar

Edition 10 – Threads In Focus | Liz Almond Embroidery

Blackwork Journey

ELIZABETH ALMOND, designer and embroiderer www.blackworkjourney.co.uk

A conversation with Christine at Empress Mills, Colne led to the following;

“You are interested in all aspects of needlework would you be interested in writing something for our Blog?” Since I am more than happy to talk about any aspect of embroidery I willingly agreed.

I live in Bolton, Lancashire which was once the heart of the cotton industry but I have worked as an embroiderer, lecturer and tutor throughout my career. I am especially fascinated with blackwork, whitework, counted thread techniques, quilting and crochet. I have taught classes in community education, given talks and day schools to groups throughout England, exhibited, worked to commission and created charts and custom-made kits of my designs and have also embroidered for a number of London businesses during my career.

Working with the problems of aging and embroidery, selecting suitable equipment and materials is an integral part of my work. I ran an “agony aunt” column for needleworkers for some time and found that there are ways round most problems if you know who to ask. I publish on a regular basis on magazines such as “The World of Cross Stitch”, “Just Cross Stitch”, “Cross Stitch and Embroidery” and “The Gift of Stitching” where I write a monthly column.

Islamic architecture and geometric patterns are major influences on my designs and I have travelled extensively throughout the Middle East and Asia finding inspiration for my most recent work.

Day schools and talks on aspects of Blackwork, Whitework and Monograms under the heading “Monogram Magic” are available for 2013. These involve all aspects of embroidery and quilting and can be adapted to suit specific groups.

Talks and workshops on embroidery can form an important part of an embroiderer’s development and are often attended by students with a wide range of skills and abilities.They not only provide an opportunity to share ideas and expand on previous knowledge, but also provide both students and teachers the opportunity to work together in a convivial and constructive atmosphere.

New students are not only motivated by the tutor, but by the work of other students and whilst it is fun, the participants usually want to achieve something worthwhile and as the day progresses, I have often found that silence reigns as embroiderers concentrate on their individual projects. At the end of the day, everyone looks at each other’s work and for me the most satisfying comments are “I didn’t think I could do that!” or “I could get hooked on this!” and to be asked back again the following year makes it very rewarding and I know then that I have achieved my objective!

If you have never participated in a needlework group, investigate your local area or consider joining a “virtual” needlework on-line class. These can be a wonderful experience linking people around the globe with a common interest. I cannot stress highly enough the importance the Internet can play in connecting individuals and expanding knowledge and friendships. There are so many excellent web sites available at the click of a mouse and a wealth of information available from highly experienced tutors who are willing to share their expertise.

With such an excellent business and website as Empress Mills nearby, even difficult to find fabrics can be obtained and “Yes!” I found my Mountmellick Fabric & Specialist Threads .

The Empress Centre is a haven for craft and sewing enthusiasts. Part of a working thread mill, the large, well-stocked shop, houses the wide variety of threads manufactured on site as well as an abundance of accessories, craft supplies and gifts.

Happy Stitching,

• Sewing Shop

Connect With Us

Recent posts.

• 25 Mar Visit Empress Mills – Ultimate Sewing Shop 0 comments
• 10 Feb Thermal Curtain Lining Guide – Keep Your House Cosy Warm! 0 comments
• 30 Jan Which Fleece Fabric Is Best For You? 0 comments

Payment Options

• Shipping & Returns
• Terms & Conditions

• Blackwork patterns
• Cross stitch patterns
• Hardanger Patterns
• Needlepoint patterns
• Blackwork for beginners
• Project Planner
• Stitch your own business
• Embroidery History
• Free Designs
• Sewing Jobs
• Sewing Room Ideas
• Video tutorials
• Cross Stitch
• Needlepoint
• Pulled Thread
• Whitework Sampler
• Crazy Quilting
• Needle Felting

So What is Blackwork Embroidery?

My love for blackwork embroidery began at school. I noticed a friend creating a stunning frog using black and gold thread.

Ever since, my love for this needlework technique has grown. After 50 years of stitching, I am so excited to share it with you!

I'll begin with a little about it's history.

Already a fan of blackwork? Check out my downloadable patterns

An Introduction to Blackwork

Although blackwork dates back to Tudor times, its style and materials have evolved over the years.

Originally stitched with black silk thread on white fabric, today it is common to see blackwork done in any colour. Metallic threads and beads are also often used.

Blackwork embroidery enables you to stitch natural elements such as flowers, leaves, fruits, and animals as well as intricate geometric designs.

Many stitchers enjoy the challenge of creating reversible blackwork. This involves stitching every other stitch in one journey and then going back to fill in the missing stitches.

This isn’t possible if you include isolated stitches in your design, so keep that in mind when picking patterns if you want your work to look the same on both sides.

To make sure everything goes smoothly, seasoned stitchers like to map out their projects on paper. They make copies of the pattern and mark the different stitches with colors or highlights, making it simple to spot any potential roadblocks along the way.

The stitch used for this is the double running stitch, also known as the Holbein stitch. It gained its name from the artist Hans Holbein, who often painted his subjects wearing clothes decorated in this manner.

His portrait of Simon George shows both sides of an open collar decorated with blackwork stitching, illustrating its reversible nature. He also painted a portrait of Jane Seymour, the 3rd wife of Henry VIII. In the painting, her cuffs have a wide stitched border.

The beauty of this technique lies in its simplicity, yet it requires some forethought when planning the route to take. I prefer to plan my project on paper. I make copies of the pattern and highlight different stitches with a highlighter or coloured pencil. This way I can discover any dead ends along the route. 

It was quicker to stitch lace-like patterns than to make real lace. Therefore, this type of embroidery was often referred to as "poor man's lace." Reversing the colors can make blackwork embroidery look like lace. This is particularly true for this calla lily design, which uses white thread on a dark background. 

Today finished pieces can be framed or made into various household items, such as pillows, bookmarks, coasters or table coverings. Of course you can still embroider on your clothing if you wish.

Free blackwork patterns to get you started

My simple blackwork patterns will teach you the basics. Once you have mastered them, you can move on to more advanced techniques, like shading.

I have listed the lessons in the same order as I teach my live classes. I would suggest you start with lesson one, rather than jumping in at the deep end. Put aside around two hours for each lesson, but don't worry if you take longer to begin with.

You can use either Aida or an evenweave linen or cotton fabric for this technique. Choose the  embroidery floss  colour of your choice. You will also need a tapestry needle with a blunt tip. An embroidery hoop is optional. 

• Lesson 1  - Start with a simple flower and two double running stitch fill patterns

• Lesson 2  - Stitch a reversible motif for a coaster

• Lesson 3  - Try pattern darning to create a border 

• Lesson 4  - Create a bookmark with a Celtic design and fringed edge

• Lesson 5  - Learn how to add shading to your project

Learn how to do blackwork embroidery

• Do I start with the outlines and what stitch should I use?
• How are fill patterns worked?
• Do you have an instruction book I can download?
• How do I attach beads to my projects?
• Read Maria's story of creative inspiration

Patterns for you to Download and Stitch

Click the images below. They will take you to sections in my online store. Here, you can purchase and download patterns directly to your computer. Instantly!

You might like these

Explore Blackwork Embroidery Patterns with Rich Stories

Explore my blackwork designs, where intricate patterns and rich stories intertwine. Discover the inspiration, process, and unique features behind each design

Make a bookmark with a Celtic embroidery pattern

A treat for lovers of Celtic embroidery. This little free blackwork bookmark is quick and easy to make as a gift, or for yourself

Oriental blackwork ladies to grace the walls of your home or office

Stitch these beautiful oriental blackwork ladies, embellished with metallic thread and seed beads to add some feminine grace to your home

Keep in Touch with Stitchin'Times Newsletter

Copyright © Carol Leather - 2006-2024

About Me   -    Contact Carol   -    Privacy Policy   -   Site Map   -   Testimonials

Please do not copy the content of this site.  It is protected by Copyscape.