1995 - Want to Add ABS and Cruise Control

  • Thread starter klod
  • Start date Aug 6, 2011

I just got a 1995 corolla with 110K on it and would like to add ABS and cruise control to it. i can find the parts just need to know everything i need to get.  

80's Toyoda Mods Member

Not worth trouble Sir alot to retro fit Cruise not so problem it all plugs in .. the ABS requires alot of extra hard lines just add rear discs (much better mod IMHO) do this to all my celicas ..Add gr8 pads of course .. stop on a dime..  

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Toyota Corolla Cruise Control - 1995

1995 Toyota Corolla Cruise Control Components

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How do I operate the adaptive cruise control in my vehicle?

Adaptive cruise control supplements conventional cruise control with an active vehicle-to-vehicle distance control feature. designed for use on freeways and express ways, in vehicle-to-vehicle distance control mode, your car automatically acceler... sep 24, 2022 • knowledge, new section, only answer.

Adaptive cruise control supplements conventional cruise control with an active vehicle-to-vehicle distance control feature. Designed for use on freeways and express ways, in vehicle-to-vehicle distance control mode, your car automatically accelerates or decelerates in order to maintain a preset following distance from the vehicle traveling directly ahead of you.

To activate the system, press the "ON/OFF" button at the end of the stalk on the lower end of the right side of the steering wheel. The radar-ready indicator will appear in the Multi Information Display.

Accelerate or decelerate to your intended speed, then press the stalk down to set it. If you want to go faster, push the stalk upward and hold until you've reached the desired speed and then release it. Or, if you want to slow down, push the stalk down and hold as you decelerate, then release it once you've reached the desired speed.

To cancel cruise control, tap the brakes, pull the stalk towards you or turn the system off with the ON/OFF button.

Adaptive Cruise Control was designed to maintain the preset distance between your car and the car driving in the same lane directly ahead of you.

When it’s active, it automatically adjusts for changes in the speed of the vehicle traveling directly ahead of you in order to maintain the vehicle-to-vehicle distance you set.

In the event that you would like to change the preset distance between vehicles, you can do so by using the radar range button located on the lower right side of the steering wheel. Simply press the button repeatedly to cycle through the ranges available. You'll find them displayed on the Multi Information Display. And finally, you can disable the distance holding feature by pushing the cruise control stalk away and holding it until the indicator disappears and the conventional cruise control indicator lights up.

Please click here  to view a video.

Disclaimer: Adaptive Cruise Control is designed to assist the driver and is not a substitute for safe and attentive driving practices. See your  Owner's Manual for important instructions and cautions.

Not all features are available on all vehicles and model grades. Please see your Owner's Manual for further details and important safety information.

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2015 Toyota Corolla Four Door. White with black leather interior. Back Up Camera, CD radio, Cruise control. In excellent condition. 109,000 miles. Upkept and never in accident.

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Genuine Toyota Cruise Control Servo for 1995 Toyota Corolla

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1995 Toyota Corolla Cruise Control Servo - 88200-12120

1995 Toyota Corolla Actuator Assy, Cruise Control

  • Other Name : Actuator
  • DX, LE, STD | 4 Cyl 1.6L, 4 Cyl 1.8L | 4AFE, 7AFE; 4AFE, 7AFE; AE101L-AEHDKK, AE101L-AEHNKK, AE101L-AEMDKK, AE101L-AEMNKK, AE101L-DEHDKK, AE101L-DEHNKK, AE101L-DEMDKK, AE101L-DEMNKK, AE102L-AEMNKA, AE102L-AEMNKK, AE102L-AEPEKA, AE102L-AEPNKA, AE102L-AEPNKK, AE102L-AWMNKA, AE102L-AWMNKK, AE102L-AWPNKA, AE102L-AWPNKK, AE102L-DEMEKA, AE102L-DEMNKA, AE102L-DEMNKK, AE102L-DEPEKA, AE102L-DEPNKA, AE102L-DEPNKK

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Where are the cruise control components located?

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Hi all, My cruise control works intermittently and I am wondering where the components for it (apart from the switch) are located. I have tried looking around YouTube, as well as Google. I tried searching for installation kits just to see what the parts look like. I'm not sure if it's the switch or the other electronics that may be involved. I sprayed some contact cleaner in the switch to no effect. I'm not sure what may be busted. It will work fine, but then when I try to re-engage it, the "cruise" light flashes slowly and it won't engage.  

funman1

I'm pretty sure the switch is the control unit. People without cruise can just add the switch and then they have cruise so I think the switch has the ECU in it. But I'm not 100% on that  

75aces

Check to see if your switch is damaged at the housing. It's connected through the steering column. Also check the wiring harness to the gas pedal. Unless that is mechanically controlled.  

Buurin

There's an extreme amount of wirimg for cruise control system. I think more wiring length and more complexity than entire EFI system.  

Here's first thread ever of cruise-control upgrade that actually worked. Lists all components needed. Unfortunately, pictures are gone. https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...e-control-my-95-geo-prizm-toyota-corolla.html Why replace when you don't know if part is good or bad? You may end up replacing entire cruise-control system and it will won't work because there's a single wire loose. Try testing parts first to determine if they are good or indeed bad. Most likely culprit I've seen 80% of time is stalk-switch. Use voltmeter and measure contacts resistance at various positions to determine if switch is good or bad.  

DannoXYZ said: Here's first thread ever of cruise-control upgrade that actually worked. Lists all components needed. Unfortunately, pictures are gone. Why replace when you don't know if part is good or bad? You may end up replacing entire cruise-control system and it will won't work because there's a single wire loose. Try testing parts first to determine if they are good or indeed bad. Most likely culprit I've seen 80% of time is stalk-switch. Use voltmeter and measure contacts resistance at various positions to determine if switch is good or bad. Click to expand...

Link added, sorry I spaced... Look at wiring-diagram for switch. Should be central-terminal... say.. #1. Each position of switch should have that terminal connect to other terminals, 1+2, 1+3, etc. for each position. There's some that's connected all the time. Others are momentary contacts for accelerate/coast, could be 2+3 & 2+4 or some such. The actual diagram will show how switch is connected at various position. Then set voltmeter to measure resistance, touch tips of probes together to simulate a connection. Should come back with 0.00 ohms. Open circuits (no contact, infinite resistance) will read 1 typically. Also use voltmeter to test all fuses in car. Eyeballing is NOT sufficient, I've found easily 20-25% of fuses that "look OK" are really blown. Only by pulling out the fuse and measuring resistance across the legs can confirm 100% for sure it's bad or good. Some times corrosion on fuse-legs will result in intermittent action on that circuit.  

I'm writing this from memory so I might miss a couple of steps. To remove the cruise control switch: - remove circular plastic screw covers on steering wheel - undo the screws on each side (Torx T30) - remove the airbag from the steering wheel (for God's sake disconnect the battery before you do this) - undo the center bolt holding on the steering wheel (19mm) - remove the wheel from the column - undo the 4 screws on the back of the wheel (phillips) - remove the metal bracing in the center of the wheel - at some point along this process you should've also disconnected the switch's electrical harness - there is one more screw holding on the switch (phillips), remove that. The cruise computer is located to the right of the glove box. How you remove the glove box without damaging it I'm not sure - I should have experimented with this on one of the cars at the yard. The only thing holding the cruise computer in is a wiring harness and a 12mm bolt. There are two components in the engine bay which are not present in non-cruise models, both near the passenger's side shock tower.  

Happy ending: It was the switch. It has a little ground wire running to the steering assembly, which got disconnected from the harness. I'm not sure how it ever worked at all! I guess when I had the wheel in a particular position, it would still be connected enough to activate cruise.  

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