travel to mestia georgia

How to Travel to Mestia from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Zugdidi & Batumi

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Mestia, the capital of the Svaneti region, is becoming one of the most popular places to visit on any Georgia itinerary. With its stunning mountain scenery, excellent hiking opportunities and unique culture, there are plenty of reasons why travellers want to travel to this part of the country. For most travellers who want to come to Mestia, typical travel routes are either from Tbilisi to Mestia, Kutaisi to Mestia or Batumi to Mestia.

If you’re wondering about the best way to get to the Svaneti region from Georgia’s major cities, then here’s everything you need to know about these travel routes to ensure you have a hassle-free trip.

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Tbilisi to Mestia

For travellers looking to head directly from the Georgian capital of Tbilisi to Mestia, then there are three main transport options: bus, train & bus combination or a short flight.

Tbilisi to Mestia Bus

If you want to get from Tbilisi to Mestia in one day and aren’t concerned about being crammed in a minibus for 10 hours, then you’ll be happy to know that there is a direct bus from Tbilisi to Mestia. It leaves from Samgori Bus Station (this is the same station where frequent buses leave to Sighnaghi ) at 7 am, costing 30GEL a ticket and taking around 10 hours.

Travelling in a minibus in Georgia isn’t always the most comfortable experience so if you have the luxury of time, I would recommend trying to break up the journey when planning your trip. One option is to first head from Tbilisi to Kutaisi , spend a few days exploring the lovely city , then travel from Kutaisi to Zugdidi, spend a night in Zugdidi and then take a marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia which takes about 4 hours.

From Zugdidi to Mestia, marshrutkas leave throughout the day with the first bus leaving at 6 am and then whenever they are full throughout the day. Your best bet is to get there in the early part of the morning to secure a spot. This way you won’t need to wait around long in the city.

Tbilisi to Mestia Train & Bus

If you want to get from Tbilisi to Mestia in one day but don’t want to spend all day in a marshrutka then there is an option to take a combination of a train and bus which will be more comfortable.

There are two trains that currently leave from Tbilisi to Zugdidi. One is a daily train that departs at 8:10 am from Tbilisi and arrives in Zugdidi at 1:45 pm. The other is a night train that leaves Tbilisi at 9:45 pm and arrives in Zugdidi the next day at 6:05 am. You can check the most recent timetables on the Georgian Railways website.

The first marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia is timed to depart with the arrival of the night train. However, as the journey takes 4 hours, you could still have time to get to Mestia in one day if you take the day train from Tbilisi as there are marshrutkas that leave in the afternoon.

The marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia costs 20GEL each and you must buy tickets before boarding the bus from the cashier. If you’re not sure where to go, someone will surely point you in the right direction!

Tbilisi to Mestia Flight

Vanilla Sky is a small local airline that operates regular flights from Tbilisi to Mestia, particularly during the busy summer months. Flights depart from Natakhtari which is located about 30 kilometres from Tbilisi and just north of the old capital of Mtskheta .

Flight time is approximately 1 hour and there are up to two flights daily during summer. You can check schedules here. You cannot buy tickets online at the moment so you’ll need to contact the airline directly or visit their office in Tbilisi to book.

Taking a flight from Tbilisi to Mestia is definitely the fastest way to travel from the Georgian capital and might be a good option if you have return flights from Tbilisi and don’t want to travel the long route both ways.

Kutaisi to Mestia

For travellers looking to go from Kutaisi to Mestia, then you are faced with similar options as if you were travelling from Tbilisi.

Kutaisi to Mestia Bus

There is a direct marshrutka that leaves from Kutaisi to Mestia in the morning. If you’re not able to get on the direct bus, then you can take a marshrutka first from Kutaisi to Zugdidi and then connect to another marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia.

The marshrutka from Kutaisi to Zugdidi costs 7GEL and takes 2 hours with the connecting marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia costing 20GEL and taking 4 hours. The direct marshrutka costs 25GEL so there isn’t much difference between the two options and taking the connecting bus allows you to leave Kutaisi a bit later in the day.

Kutaisi to Mestia Train & Bus

There is a direct train that goes from Kutaisi to Zugdidi, however, it leaves in the afternoon meaning you are only arriving in Zugdidi at around 5 pm. This might make it difficult to get to Mestia on the same day, so if you are insistent on taking the train then I suggest spending the night in Zugdidi and then taking the marshrutka to Mestia the next morning.

Kutaisi to Mestia Flight

It is also possible to fly from Kutaisi to Mestia with Vanilla Sky, however, flights are less frequent and only leave a couple of times per week even in the summer season. The flight time is only 40 minutes but if you want to take this option then it’s best to book in advance as the tickets do sell out.

Batumi to Mestia

If you want to spend a few days relaxing by the Black Sea before heading to Mestia, then it’s also fairly straightforward to travel from Batumi to Mestia. While there are no flights that operate you can easily take a bus between the two cities.

There are direct buses that operate from Batumi to Mestia during the summer in the early morning. They take about 6 hours and cost 30GEL. We ended up travelling in the reverse direction from Mestia to Batumi and when we arrived in the afternoon there were drivers looking for passengers to Batumi, however, I’m not sure if there is enough demand in the afternoon.

If you are unable to get a direct bus from Batumi to Mestia, then first take a marshrutka from Batumi to Zugdidi and then connect to another marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia.

Leaving Mestia by Bus

During the summer season, there are direct buses that leave from Mestia to Tbilisi, Batumi & Kutaisi. They leave in the morning and if you want to secure a spot, you should book your tickets one or two days in advance by heading to the Bus Station where you get dropped off when you arrive. The buses to Batumi, Kutaisi & Tbilisi leave at 8 am.

If the direct buses are booked out on the day you want to travel, then you’ll need to head to Zugdidi first and then connect to another bus from there.

Driving to Mestia

If you have decided to rent a car and drive around Georgia, then it is entirely possible to drive to Mestia.

The road from Zugdidi to Mestia has been renovated in recent years and is in good condition for regular cars to drive. If you plan on driving from Mestia to Ushguli, then the second half of the drive is along an unpaved road so a 4WD would definitely be preferable.

It is possible to rent directly from locals in major cities like Tbilisi or Batumi through Localrent.

You can also book private drivers on GoTrip if you prefer not to drive but would like the convenience of a car.

Make sure to also take out an excess insurance policy from a company like iCarHireInsurance to ensure you’re covered for any deductible if you need to make a claim.

Where to Stay in Mestia

There are a number of places to stay in Mestia for travellers ranging from comfortable guesthouses to more up-market hotels.

Guesthouse Guram Baba  — If you’re travelling on a budget, then this family-run guest house is a fantastic option. They offer a range of clean and comfortable rooms in a self-contained house with kitchen and laundry facilities. They can also organise transport to Ushguli and offer the possibility to include breakfast for an additional charge. Click here to see their latest prices

Chalet Mestia  — If you want to splurge during your time in Mestia, then this hotel is a fantastic option. They offer a range of rooms including some with balconies and fantastic mountain views. There a bar on-site and breakfast is included in the daily rate.   Click here to see their latest prices

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse other rooms in Mestia.

There are a number of options to travel to Mestia from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi or Zugdidi, meaning you can easily add Svaneti onto your Caucasus itinerary!

Are you planning a trip to Mestia? Have you been recently? Let us know in the comments below!

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About Michael Rozenblit

Michael is a co-founder and writer for The World Was Here First. Both solo and with his partner, Maggie, he has travelled to over 50 countries across the globe and has a particular affinity for the Balkans and Eastern Europe. He’s lived in numerous countries worldwide but currently resides in his hometown of Melbourne, Australia. Read more about Michael

Thank you for you article. Do you know from which bus station in Kutaisi the bus to Mestia is departing ?

Wow! This is an encoclopedy about Georgia ,thanks! Do you know someone who has drive through the new road from Zugdidi to Mestia? I’m a bit scared about having an accident because is not a good road. Do you know where or how could I verify it’s a margshuka from kutaisi to Mestia? Some people are telling me there is not.

Take care and thanks in advance.

thanks you’ve helped me!

Thank you so much Michael and team! I have found your article to be the most thorough and clear to-date and it will definitely help me plan my Georgia trip this summer. Looking forward to sharing my experiences with you guys! Betsy

Hope you have a great time in Georgia, Betsy!

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Visiting Mestia, Georgia, in Winter – A Complete Guide

Are you considering a trip to Mestia, Georgia? Prior to visiting Mestia, I always thought that winter travel wasn’t for me. I’m not a skier or a snowboarder, I’ve never owned a pair of snow boots – heck, I’ve never even worn thermals! The only ‘winter travel’ experience I’ve ever had was a disastrous trip to the French Alps during my uni days, where I vowed that I would never embark on a trip like that again. Enter, Georgia.

In February of this year, the Georgia tourism board invited me on a 5-day trip to Mestia in the Zemo (Upper) Svaneti region of Georgia. To say I was apprehensive would be an understatement, but after making sure that I would not be expected to put on a pair of skis at any point, I accepted. It was one of the best travel decisions I’ve ever made. Over the course of 5 days, I fell more and more in love with this magical townlet, and so I’ve decided to put together a guide to Mestia, Georgia, for all of the other non -skiers like me (because I know you’re out there!).

In this post, I’ll cover the best things to do in Mestia, what it’s like visiting Mestia in winter, where you should stay, how to get there, and just about everything else you need to know if you’re planning a trip! It should be noted that this is a guide to Mestia town centre . I haven’t included anything that you need a car to get to, because that stuff is going to be in my post about Svaneti as a region . Comprende? Then let’s get into it.

Table of Contents

A Complete Guide to Mestia, Georgia, in Winter (for Non-Skiers!)

Mestia at a glance.

Mestia is located 1500 meters above sea level in the Caucasus Mountains, 456 km from Tbilisi. With its formidable mountains and heavy snowfall, Mestia is a popular destination for adventurous skiers, but this isolated town is far more than a base for your ski trip. Home to 9th century towers, ancient churches and monasteries, a diverse landscape, rich history, and delicious cuisine, Mestia is a travel destination in its own right, and even as a non-skier, I quickly fell in love with this alpine village. Mestia is also a sustainable travel destination, and has been recognised as one of the ‘Best Tourism Villages’ on the UN Tourism website . To qualify, a destination must be an ‘ outstanding destination with recognised cultural and national assets that preserve and promote the rural and community-based values, products, and lifestyle. ‘ Pretty impressive, right?

The history of Svaneti and Mestia

Due to its high altitude, harsh climate, and historical lack of roads, the isolated Upper Svaneti region has remained unconquered, meaning that centuries-old Svan traditions and culture have been able to survive. The region even has its own language – Svan – although unfortunately it is becoming endangered, with fewer and fewer people speaking it. In the past, blood feuds were common, but now the Svan people are less bloody-thirsty and much more welcoming of outsiders, with agrotourism being one of the biggest types of tourism here, after snow sports and hiking.

Mestia in winter

Unless you’re a skier, the best time to visit Mestia is undoubtedly in the summer, when you can fully experience everything that Mestia and Upper Svaneti have to offer. I visited Mestia in winter, and while I definitely enjoyed myself, there are limitations and hazardous conditions that you need to be aware of if you visit Mestia in winter. When I visited Mestia, the region saw the worst weather conditions that it had experienced in over 20 years, with avalanches and landslides destroying homes and resulting in the loss of life for several locals. During the drive to Mestia, 3 of the 7 cars from our group got trapped on the road due to avalanches, and while everybody made it to Mestia safely in the end, it was a very scary situation for everyone involved.

Below are some tips and things to consider if you plan on visiting Mestia (and Svaneti) in winter.

• Hire a local driver: We hired local drivers with 4X4s who knew the mountain roads well and were able to tackle the dangerous conditions. I do not recommend driving to Svaneti yourself in winter, no matter how much of an experienced driver you think you are. It is also necessary to take a 4X4 rather than a regular car.
• Be prepared for road closures: Avalanches and landslides can result in the roads being closed, and while things are usually cleared quickly, this can still throw a spanner in the works. We had planned to drive from Mestia to Ushguli, and this trip had to be postponed by a few days due to the road between the townlets being closed.
• Bring waterproof snow shoes: The snow is deep , and you will want good shoes, even if you’re only walking around the town. The 10 minute walk from my hotel to the local bar took almost 30 minutes, and it would have taken longer if I wasn’t wearing the appropriate footwear!

The best things to do in Mestia, Georgia

Watch dede at the local cinema.

Filmed in nearby Ushguli, Dede is an independent film that has won a tonne of international awards. Made in 2017, the film tells a profound story of the deep-rooted culture and traditions of Svan people through the eyes of a woman who is struggling with cultural expectations of her. Dede was written and directed by a woman named Mariam Khatchvani, who was born and raised in Ushguli, and almost all of the roles in the film are played by locals with no acting experience! Not only will watching Dede give you a much deeper understanding of Svaneti and Svan people, but there is a rather unique ‘cinema’ in Mestia that plays this film (and this film only) every 2 hours on a projector in the basement! A great way to spend an evening in Mestia is by plopping yourself down on a beanbag in front of the projector, buying a beer or local wine from the bar, and enjoying this beautiful movie. Fun fact – the cinema that screens Dede is owned by the director of the film, and one of the actresses works behind the bar! You can find Pub and Cinema Dede here.

Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography

The Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is one of the most important and comprehensive museums in Georgia, and it’s right in the centre of Mestia! Founded in 1936, the museum houses over 4000 important historical artifacts and relics from archaeological excavations, both from Svaneti and the rest of Georgia. You can also find beautiful jewellery, traditional costumes, coins, ancient books, artworks, and much more. What I especially loved about this museum was the collection of photographs taken by Italian Vittorio Sella at the end of the 19th century. These photographs show Svan people living their lives, and they’re really interesting to look at.

Good to know

You can find the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography at 7, Avtandil Ioseliani str., Mestia . Google maps link. The museum is open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm, every day except Monday. Admission to the museum is 7 GEL (around 2.5 EUR). You can find all other necessary information here.

Admire the Svan towers

The impressive medieval towers (or koshki ) that you’ll see all around the region are unique to Svaneti, and Mestia alone has 45 of these 24-metre-tall fortifications, some of which date back to the 9th century! In the past, Svans would actually live in these towers with their livestock to protect themselves, not only from outside invaders, but also from neighbouring villages that they were feuding with. Today, there are only a couple of these towers that you can venture into (the Mikhail Khergiani House Museum is one), but they’re great to admire from a distance, and they’re the reason why the landscape of Mestia is so distinct.

Discover Svan cuisine

Georgian cuisine is incredible, and Svanetian cuisine is some of the tastiest food in the country. As is typical in mountainous regions, Svan food is hearty and filling, with cheese, dough, and meat making up the main ingredients. One of the most famous Svan foods is Kubdari , a meat pie stuffed with pork, beef, and onion, and seasoned with local spices. Tashmijabi is one of my favourite dishes. It’s basically cheesy mashed potato, but like… really cheesy mashed potato. Other staples of Svan cuisine include Chvishtari , a cheesy cornbread that is fried and served piping hot, and Kartoplaar , which is a version of Georgian khachapuri but with potato and cheese.   If you take away one thing from this article, make it this – you will not go hungry in Mestia!

Hatsvali Cable Car

Mount Zuruldi is home to the highest restaurant in the whole region, at 2430 metres above sea level! To get here, you can take a chairlift from Mestia to Hatsvali (a ski resort), and then switch to a cable car for the final 1.5 km (you can also drive the 8km from Mestia to Hatsvali and take the cable car if you’re not a fan of chairlifts). The views from the cable car are breathtaking, and when you get to the top, Restaurant Zuruldi offers even more fantastic views over Mount Ushba and the Caucasus Mountains. To eat, I recommend the Nigvziani badrijani , eggplant rolled and stuffed with a delicious walnut and garlic paste. My friends and I couldn’t get enough of this!

The cable cars are open from 10:00 am until 4:00 pm.

Mikhail Khergiani House Museum

Mikhail Khergiani was a mountaineer known for his nickname ‘Tiger of the Cliffs.’ Born in Mestia, he was 7-time national champion, and was even named ‘Honoured Master of Sport of the USSR’ in 1963. Unfortunately, he died in 1969 while climbing in Italy, but his legacy lives on. In the Mikhail Khergiani House Museum, which is the alpinist’s former home, you can view simple exhibits and photographs (although limited information is available in English), to glean more about Khergiani and his life. The best part about this museum is that it’s located in a traditional Svan house, with a tower that you can climb up and admire the views of Mestia from.

The cost to enter the museum is 10 GEL (3.50 EUR). The museum is open every day except Monday from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm. You can find the museum here .

Explore Mestia town centre

One of my favourite things to do in any new place is to simply wander around without an agenda. Although this was easier said than done in Mestia due to the waist-high snow (!), Mestia is still a lovely town that is a pleasure to explore on foot. I particularly enjoyed the different architecture styles, from the modern glass government buildings, to the alpine chalets and ramshackle houses lining the streets. A lovely place to wander is Seti Square, the main square of Mestia where you’ll find a small park, the futuristic-looking town hall, and a handful of restaurants and cafes. You can even find a Sphinx in Mestia, although unfortunately it was covered in snow when we visited! Here’s the Google Maps link if you’re curious.

If you leave the town centre of Mestia and head upwards, in the direction of the Museum of History and Ethnography, you’ll come across a couple of bridges with lovely views of the mountains and Svan towers. I should also mention that there are a lot of (very) large stray dogs in Mestia (and Georgia in general). They all seemed friendly, and the tags on their ears signify that they’re vaccinated, but if you’re nervous around dogs, it’s something to be aware of.

Buy Svaneti salt

If you’re anything like me, you can’t help but buy foodie souvenirs wherever you go (my olive oil collection is becoming a serious issue!). Svanetian salt is salt from Svaneti (duh) that has a unique spiced fragrance and taste, and is used in place of regular salt, both for cooking and seasoning. Svans add a mix of ingredients to salt – garlic, coriander seeds, dried marigold flowers, caraway seeds, blue fenugreek, and dried red pepper. The result is a versatile and delicious spice that you can use to make literally anything taste better. A word of caution: While Svaneti salt tastes amazing, it smells VERY STRONG, and when I purchased some, my entire hotel room stank of curry within hours, despite the salt being triple-bagged! If you want to buy some, I’d leave it until the last day of your trip, and try and get an airtight plastic container for it!

Bars and restaurants in Mestia

Many Georgians flock to Mestia purely to visit Café Laila, and rightly so! I was only in Mestia for 5 days and I still managed to visit this place twice! This bar/restaurant is very cool, with a tonne of left-wing graffiti (expect lots of anti-Russian sentiment), daily live music, and some of the best food you’ll eat in Georgia.

My favourite things here were the carrot salad (and I don’t even like carrots!), lobio kotanshi (kidney bean stew served in a clay pot), and skhmeruli (fried chicken in garlic sauce). You can find Café Laila here .

ERTI KAVA is a lovely coffee shop with good WiFi and friendly staff. I had a great Turkish coffee here, and other hot drinks include V60 coffee, spiced apple tea, and matcha latte. I didn’t eat here, but their all-day breakfast menu looked great – I especially had my eye on the quinoa pancakes with shrimp and hash browns with salmon. You can find ERTI KAVA here .

Twin Peaks is a bar and restaurant, and when the sun goes down, it is the place to be in Mestia! Their menu offers a modern twist on traditional Georgian classics, and they’re also known for their fantastic cocktails. I didn’t eat here, but I did visit at night, where I ended up partying with a bunch of drunk Bulgarians (always the sign of a good night). What I liked about Twin Peaks was the interior, which I’d describe as ‘feminine industrial,’ and the fact that the small dance floor was around a corner from the main bar, allowing my friends and I to chat without the music being too loud. Make sure to order a jug of Georgian chacha while you’re here! You can find Twin Peaks here .

Hotel Posta

I ate at the Hotel Posta restaurant every night as this was the hotel I stayed at, and the food was unbelievable. They serve the best skhmeruli I’ve tried in Georgia, as well as an unreal pork belly (with crispy crackling!). Their salads were top notch as well. Hotel Posta also has traditional live music every night, which is very loud, but very good. You can find Hotel Posta here . Enter the lobby and take the lift to the top floor.

How to get to Mestia

Mestia is located 128 kilometres (80 miles) northeast of the regional capital of Zugdidi, and 466 km from Tbilisi. It’s a very long journey, and while it can be done in a day (this is what I did), I’d recommend spending the night in Zugdidi to break up your journey ( check out Zugdidi hotels here ). Take the train from Tbilisi-Zugdidi (6 hours), and then take a marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia. If there are a few of you, it might even work out cheaper to hire a private minivan with a local driver.

This second part of the journey should take 3 hours, but if the weather is bad, it can take 7 or more. Please do not attempt to drive yourself for the second part of this journey. The road to Mestia is prone to avalanches and landslides, and it can be very dangerous, especially if you are not familiar with the road. Another option is to fly from just outside Tbilisi to Mestia with the company Vanilla Sky . However, flights get booked up far in advance and often get cancelled due to bad weather.  

Where to stay in Mestia

I stayed at Hotel Posta and I highly recommend it. From the gorgeous pool and sauna facilities to the wonderful restaurant and central location (right by Seti Square), Hotel Posta has everything. My room (and bed!) was really comfortable, with a modern industrial interior, tea/coffee facilities, and nice toiletries. The bathroom mirror even lit up, which I was a big fan of!

Paliani Hotel

When I travelled to Mestia, part of our group stayed at Paliani Hotel , and they really liked it. Paliani is a small and cosy guesthouse with friendly staff, simple rooms and a traditional restaurant. It doesn’t have the spa amenities that Hotel Posta has, and it’s also about 10-15 minutes away from the centre of Mestia (by foot), not accounting for snow. However, it’s definitely a more budget-friendly option than Posta, with a price difference of about 50 EUR at the time of writing.

Gistola Hotel

Gistola Hotel is where the rest of our group stayed, and they loved their modern, spacious rooms with balconies. Gistola Hotel is a little bit further out of town (walkable in about 20 minutes without snow), but its terrace with stunning views over the town makes up for it. It also has a traditional restaurant onsite, as well as a spa (but unlike Posta, you must pay extra to use the spa facilities).

Visiting Mestia, Georgia | Final Thoughts

I loved my time in Mestia, and while I’d love to return in the summer time to experience it in full, I still loved the cosy vibes, hearty food, and gorgeous scenery that winter in Mestia provides. I definitely think that Mestia is worth visiting if you aren’t a skier, and there are also tonnes of day trips that you can do around the region. If you have any questions about visiting Mestia, Svaneti, or even Georgia in general, please don’t hesitate to reach out and ask in the comments section below!

Further Reading

If you’re planning a trip to Georgia, you may find my other Georgia guides interesting: Georgian Amber Wine, an 8000 Year Old Tradition Georgian Chacha – 8 Facts About Georgia’s National Drink The Best Things to Do in Sighnaghi, Georgia’s City of Love Kakheti Wine Tours – How to Choose the Right One Until next time, XOXO

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Join my Adventure: There's Room in My Backpack

Packing up the Pieces

10+ Best Things to Do in Mestia & What to Skip

In the Upper Svaneti Region of Georgia, find the small village of Mestia. With a unique culture, there are a diverse range of things to do in Mestia Georgia. During the summer months, hiking Mestia is a delight. Nestled in the stunning Caucasus Mountains, the village of Mestia altitude is close to 5,000 feet. So it’s an understatement to say the nearby hiking trails and views of the surrounding valley and mountain peaks are incredible. On the flip-side, the winter months in Mestia provide a haven for skiers and snowboarders.

Besides the the fabulous recreations that the jagged mountains provide, one of the best things to do in Mestia is learn about the ancient  Svan culture and customs . Mestia and the surrounding villages are dotted with their distinct Svan towers, hearty mountain cuisine, and a medieval feudal history. As Georgia was invaded throughout the years, the  Upper Svaneti Region  remained mostly untouched, isolated by its towering mountains and lack of modern roads. These two factors helped preserve the unique Svan culture.

Mestia is a top destination to add on any Georgia itinerary . While Mestia Georgia is rich with lovely things to do, there are some Mestia attractions that can be skipped if you’re short on time. This Mestia travel guide includes: an overview on how to get to Mestia, things to do in Mestia, hiking in Mestia, things to skip, and top rated Mestia guesthouses.

Here are some awesome things to do in Mestia Georgia that highlight this unique and special region in the Upper Svaneti Georgia.

Table of Contents

How to get to mestia georgia, popular things to do in mestia.

• Hiking Things to Do in Mestia
• Things to Skip in Mestia… (Maybe)
• Where to Sleep in Mestia
• Summary of Best Things to Do in Mestia

Most travelers visiting Mestia will come from the bustling capital city of Tbilisi . However, the distance from the Black Seaside city of Batumi to Mestia is shorter and takes less time, but still passes through Zugdidi.

There are tons of ways to get to Mestia from Tbilisi. The most popular route is combining a train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi and then hopping in a shared mini-bus, or a  marshrutka . However, if the train schedule doesn’t fit into your schedule, these little mini buses cover the whole 240+ miles from Tbilisi to Mestia. Travelers not worried about budget can also hire a private driver or join organized tours.

☛ Travel Tip | Here’s a detailed guide on how to get from Tbilisi to Mestia

There’s also a prop plane run by Vanilla Sky that flies 4-5 times a week into the tiny Mestia airport. Flight schedules and frequency change every few times a year, so it’s best to confirm the current departs from Tbilisi to Mestia on the  official Vanilla Sky Facebook Page .  These tickets book out far in advance, so purchase as soon as you can. Keep in mind, those who plan for some serious hiking in Mestia can not carry-on luggage that exceeds 33 pounds .

✔ More Tbilisi Travel Resources | Are the Tbilisi Sulfur Baths Worth it? | Things to Do Around Tbilisi’s Marjanishvili Street | 2 Day Tbilisi Itinerary to See the Best Tbilisi Highlights | 10 of the Best Places to Eat in Tbilisi

While in Mestia, enjoy the peaceful  Seti Square  in the morning, and at night listen to the centuries old  traditional folk music . Appreciate the  medieval Svan towers  that dot the village and watch the movie  Dede  at the local theater. It will help clarify the importance these towers played in the notorious ancient blood feuds. For more details, head over to the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography. Ride the  Hatsvali Cable Car  to gawk at the Caucasus mountains and understand the significance they helped play to maintain the culture of this isolated region.

Enjoy Coffee in Seti Square

In the morning hours, head to the centerpiece Seti Square and enjoy a coffee or a hearty breakfast at one of the many cafes lining the plaza. There are no shortage of outdoor patios that offers up splendid views of the surrounding mountains. There’s a small park in the center with many friendly street dogs, who like to stop by to see if you’ve ordered correctly. The little cafes have warm blankets and heaters on request.

Try this Mestia cafe with an outdoor terrace:   Cafe Laila | Find them here | Hours: Daily, 10:00 – 23:00

Listen to Traditional Folk Music & Dance Along

At night, when the mountains are covered in darkness, Mestia becomes a haven for traditional folk music. It’s not uncommon for locals to participate and show-off their unique styles of dance. There’s a sense of pride in the the way they move. The restaurants and cafes clear and move their tables and chairs and transform the space into a dance floor.

Many Mestia restaurants showcase folk music with traditional and modern instruments. In fact, on one given summer night there were at least 5 different establishments, both indoor and outdoors, hosting some sort of live music. It should come as no surprise that  chacha , or Georgia’s most prized grape brandy, is being passed around by all.

Psst… Learn more about chacha when visiting Georgia’s wine region of Kakheti. Sighnaghi village makes an ideal location to relax and learn more about Georgia’s wine and spirits.

As the night continues on, everyone soon becomes an  “expert”  at traditional folk dancing, or so they think. Either way, the nightlife in Mestia is really fun, whether you participate whole heartedly, or simply watch from the sidelines. Catching live music is one of the best things to do in Mestia at night.

My favorite Mestia Restaurant for traditional folk music:   Lile | Find them here | Hours: Daily, 10:00 – 00:00

Lile Restaurant also has a delicious menu, an excellent house red wine, and reasonable prices. The interior is cozy, and there is a lovely outdoor terrace. This was my go-to restaurant to eat authentic dishes of the region.

Stroll by the Medieval Svan Towers

The Svan Towers may be the most iconic image of the Svaneti region. These medieval structures were vital to the survival of the harsh mountain life. The Svans were almost “clan-like , ” and each settlement or village was represented by one or more family. Due to the severe isolation of this area, these villages oftentimes took disputes into their own hands. These towers acted as look outs and defense towers from attacks by neighboring clans.

It’s estimated that the Svans have been in this region for over 5,000 years. Throughout the years, many blood feuds and acts of revenge had just been a way of life. These towers were essential to protect and defend the small hamlets of the Caucasus Mountains.

The Upper Svaneti region has been listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for these towers and their accompanying medieval homes. Some of these hamlets, including the ones that consist of the four community villages of Ushguli, have over 200 standing today. It’s incredible when you realize some of these were built in the 9th century and the resilience they have sustained, including the unpredictable mountain terrain and the severe winters.

In Mestia, follow the Mestia river in the direction of the airport. In this section of town, there are many towers and museums to climb and visit today.

Two Popular Tower Museums in Mestia are Mikhail Khergiani House Museum & Margiani’s House Museum

Watch the Movie Dede at the Local Cinema

At the local cinema, don’t miss the opportunity to watch the beloved film  Dede . This movie was filmed in Ushguli and the surrounding Caucasus Mountains and depicts the life, traditions, and shines lights on the blood-feuds that haunt this region. This drama won multiple international film festival awards across the world. This is also one of the best things to do in Mestia on a rainy day.

If tackling the trek to Ushguli from Mestia, don’t be surprised if you recognize some faces. Many local villagers had roles in this independent film. Dede can be hard to watch, especially for women, but it left me with a better understanding of the Svans, their cultures, and their clan lifestyles.

The Pub & Cinema DEDE  is simple, and shows only this film. Upon entrance, find a bar and a few tables. It’s possible to order beer, wine, coffee, and snacks. Head downstairs to watch the film. There are options of bean bag chairs and fold out chairs. The movie is shown on a projection screen, but it’s cozy and the film is moving and worth the watch.

If you missed movie in Mestia, there is one establishment in Ushguli that also plays the film Dede.

Pub & Cinema DEDE | Find it here: Avtandil Ioseliani 6 | Movie Ticket Cost:   20 GEL ($6.75 USD) | Screening Times:   13:00, 15:00 , 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 | Movie Length:  1 hour 40 minutes |  Arrive a little before show time to snag a good seat. During off-peak months, there maybe only three screenings |   Official Facebook Page to verify the showtimes

Visit the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography

The Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is packed full of relics discovered during archaeological excavations. If interested in learning about the Svan traditions and cultures, this museum will help fill in any missing gaps.

Many of the artifacts include: religious works, jewelry, clothing, and weapons and is considered one of the best museums in Georgia.

Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography | Find it here:   A. Ioseliani 7, Mestia | Entrance Ticket:   10 GEL ($3.25 USD) | Hours: Tuesday – Sunday: 10:00 – 18:00

Ride the Hatsvali Ski Lift

The Hatsvali Ski Lift is a nice way to appreciate the surrounding mountain views from a different and higher angle. There are two sections of the ski lift. Before purchase, verify that both are up and running. The final destinations of the lift is to the Hatsvali Ski Resort along the Zuruldi mountain ridge. Be mindful that the lift can be unreliable, even during the busy summer season.

The Hatsvali Ski Lift consists of 2 Sections

➜ Mestia – Hatsvali lift

➜ Hatsvali – Hatsvali Ski Resort (Zuruldi mountain ridge)

If the second section of the Hatsvali Ski Lift is not running, it’s possible to walk below the lines up to the Hastvali Ski Resort. This happened to me, so plan on adding a one hour climb to reach the building and viewpoint.

The Hatsvali Ski Resort has a simple, yet nice terrace with views and a restaurant. I visited in September, and sadly the restaurant was closed. However, the patio still had chairs sitting out, to savor those incredible Caucasus Mountains.

From the ski resort, those looking for more of a hike can continue to the Mentashi transmitter tower to see nice views of the Zuruldi mountain. This is also an excellent alternative route of the Mestia to Ushguli trek . The next village is is  Tsvirmi , which infrequently sees tourists and one of my favorites villages in the Svaneti region.

Hatsvali Ski Lift Logistics | Find the ticket booth and first section of the cable car here | Round Trip Ticket:  20 GEL ($6.75 USD) | Ticket valid for both lifts and is the same price whether or not both lifts are working | Summer Hours:   10:00 – 16:30 | Some days the Mestia cable car does not run at all, verify at the Tourist Information Center or ask around town

Hiking Things to Do in Mestia Georgia

Of course, the most popular thing to do in Mestia is to prepare for the 4 day Mestia to Ushguli trek. Mestia boasts tons of incredible hiking trails that  pass by villages that, up until recently, have been cut off from the modern world. Believe it or not, some of these villages first got electricity in 2012.

However, there are handfuls of day hikes in Mestia if a multi-day trek doesn’t fit into your schedule.

Plan for the Multi-Day Mestia to Ushguli Trek

One of the biggest draws to the Upper Svaneti regions is to tackle the Mestia to Ushguli trek. The standard hiking route takes about 4 days. This epic hike passes through the stunning Caucasus Mountains, picturesque hamlets, winds through valleys, glaciers, and forests, and offers travelers the chance to stay in guesthouses. Intrepid hikers can choose to camp along the way.

The typical Mestia to Ushguli hiking route is as follows and can be completed casually in 4 days.

🥾 Mestia ➜ Zhabeshi ➜ Adishi ➜ Iprali ➜ Ushguli

An alternative hiking route to Ushguli departs Mestia via the  Hatsvali Cable Car  follows along the Zuruldi ridge and stops in the untouched village of  Tsvirmi.  It meets up with the standard Ushhguli trek at the  Tetnuldi Ski Lodge on Day 2

🥾 Mestia ➜ Tsvirmi ➜ Adishi ➜ Iprali ➜ Ushguli

Interested in this Georgia trekking route? The Complete Guide to the Mestia to Ushguli Trek in 4 Days With Tsvirmi

No matter which route you choose or how long it takes, the final day of this Mestia trek finishes in  Ushguli . Ushguli is a Unesco World Heritage Site that consists of four tiny hamlets Murkmeli, Chazhashi, Chvibiani and Shibiani. In the Chazhashi community, there are over 200 standing and preserved medieval towers (Svan towers).

The Mestia to Ushguli trek is truly a highlight of the Upper Svaneti Region.

Ushguli Day Trip

If you have no intentions of hiking Mestia, a day trip to Ushguli is still one of the best things to do in Mestia. The easiest way to reach Usguli is with a guided tour. However, there are marshrutkas that depart early in the morning to Ushguli. The ride takes about 2 hours and should cost around 40 GEL ($13.50 USD).

There are plenty of Ushguli guesthouses, so it is possible to simply spend a few days here and relax. Make sure to visit the Shkhara Glacier if you have the time. This mostly flat walk is scenic and takes more than 4 hours round-trip, or hire a horse. Always check the conditional of the animal before participating in animal tourism.

➜ Browse the best Ushguli Guesthouses here

Hike to the Mentashi Transmitter

The Mentashi Transmitter is a fairly easy day hike from Mestia and offers incredible views of the the Zuruldi massif. This hike is especially doable if you hop on the Hatsvali cable car and ride it all the way to the top (if it’s running).

The Mentashi Transmitter is huge and kind of hard to miss, but the path is often lonely and does offer some stellar views over the Enguri River Valley. If you are lucky enough to catch the lift on a day it’s running to the top, the Mentashi antenna can be reached in about an hour. Be mindful that near the antenna it can be steep.

Ambitious hikers can continue towards Mount Zuruldi and continue to the small village of Tsvirmi, with its medieval towers. It’s best to sleep in Tsvirmi and hike back the next day, or continue on the trail to Ushguli .

Koruldi Lakes

Another popular day hike in Mestia is to hike up to the three Koruldi Lakes. These alpine lakes have nice views of Mt. Ushba and the surrounding Caucasus Mountains. This out and back trail is a pretty steep uphill climb. There’s an option to continue past the lakes of Koruldi to a better viewpoint of the mountains.

Those who don’t wish to hike all the way up to the Koruldi Lakes can stop about half way at the cross over Mestia on the Tshakazagari Mountain.

Those seeking to hike the trail to the Koruldi Lakes should plan on at least 6 – 7 hours. The trail one way is about 4.5 miles. Here’s a detailed post on hiking from Mestia to Koruldi Lakes .

However, those who don’t want to hike can share a taxi to the cross over Mestia, making it one of the more scenic things to do in Mestia.

Things to Skip in Mestia (Maybe)

There are many things to do in Mestia, but there’s one thing I could have skipped and utilized my time differently.

Chalaadi Glacier

The Chalaadi Glacier is about 7.25 miles from Mestia’s Seti Square. The trail follows along the  Mestiachala River , past the airport, and up to a cafe. At this point, there is a wooden bridge to cross which follows a path through a forest and along another river. From the trailhead bridge, the trail is 1.5 miles. Although it’s interesting to see a glacier, there are more beautiful glaciers in the Upper Svaneti region.

If planning on visiting the Chalaadi Glacier, I recommend hiring a taxi or hitchhiking to the trailhead at the bridge. At the time I visited Chalaadi Glacier there is a lot of construction happening near the trailhead. Workers were driving to and from. I was able to hitch a ride back to Mestia. This would make a visit to the Chalaadi Glacier a short trip instead of a full day event.

💬 Real Talk | Instead see the Chkhunderi Glacier, day 3 of the Mestia to Ushguli trek or the the  Shkhara Glacier  near Ushguli Georgia

Chalaadi Glacier Hike from Mestia

• Out & Back Trail
• Distance:  7.25 miles
• Walking Time:  Plan on 3 hours each way

Here’s a basic over view on how to walk to the Chalaadi Glacier

• Leave Mestia’s Seti Square and head towards the airport
• Cross the River. Soon after you’ll have views of the tiny airport on the right. There are nice views of Mestia to the left. This is section is along a paved road
• After the airport, continue on the road. Eventually, it will become a gravel road.
• The trailhead begins right after  Cafe Chalaati
• Cross the wooden bridge and follow the trail markers to the  Chalaadi Glacier

☛ Travel Tip | If catching a ride to the cafe, the trail is only 1.5 miles and will take less than an hour for those first glimpses of the the Chalaadi Glacier

Where to Sleep in Mestia Georgia

There are tons of Mestia Guesthouses to choose from for any type of budget. Due to the mountain location, many of the guesthouses offer extra blankets, hot beverages, and some cook homemade meals.

➜ Browse the best Mestia Guesthouses and places to sleep

Popular Mestia Guesthouses

➜ Guest House Kaldani is close to Seti Square and has lovely hosts with a wealth of information. They offer home-cooked meals that can be packed up for trekking. Some rooms have terraces.

➜ Ioska’s House is a little outside of Mestia but has a lovely garden, cozy room, and breakfast is included.

➜ Guesthouse Data is a popular Mestia guesthouse with friendly owners, stellar views, and a lovely garden.

➜ Guesthouse Mountain View is close to Mestia town center, but boasts incredible views of the Caucasus Mountains, there’s an option to add breakfast, wonderful hosts, and a garden with hammocks to relax in.

Summary of the Best Things to Do in Mestia Georgia

In conclusion, there are so many diverse things to do in Mestia, a small mountain village tucked away peacefully in the Upper Svaneti Region of Georgia. From enjoying the tranquil Seti Square, to appreciating traditional folk music with Svan cuisine, to strolling past the medieval Svan towers, and visiting a Mestia museum, a visit to the village of Mestia is an unforgettable experience.

While Mestia is a top trekking destination in Georgia, there are other ways to appreciate the stunning Caucasus Moutains. Ride the Hatsvali Cable Car or watch the dramatic film of Dede that was taped in Ushguli. It’s easy to day trip to Ushguli from Mestia. There is something for every type of traveler in this distinctive region that has been cut off from Georgia for a majority of its settlement. This has left the area culturally rich in traditions and customs.

One of the most popular things to do in Mestia is hike to Ushguli. However, there are other desirable Mestia hikes, like to the cross over Mestia, the Mentashi antenna, the Koruldi Lakes, and the Chalaadi Glacier, well maybe.

Georgia Travel Guide |  The Ultimate 3 Week Adventure Itinerary for Georgia

Have you visited the Upper Svaneti region and visited Mestia? Did you do any of these best things to do in Mestia activities? Is there something you absolutely loved doing in Mestia that I am missing? Let me know in the comments below!

Disclaimer: There’s a chance this post contains affiliate links, and I receive a small (but grateful) portion of the sale. There’s no extra cost to you, and I only promote things that I use and love.

Hey, my name is Megs! I'm an adventure-seeking, wanna-be storyteller, with a wandering soul who is smitten with the diversity of this beautiful world. You can find me hiking in the mountains, eating delicious food, and seeking out the most authentic travel experiences possible. Experiences and memories are my most prized possessions. I love to slow travel and have been nomadic for over 12 years.

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9 Best Things to Do in Mestia | Non-hikers Guide to Svaneti

Nestled under the foot of the Caucasus Mountains range, Svaneti is no doubt a hikers paradise; lush greenery, gorgeous waterfalls, deep gorges, alpine lakes, medieval defense towers, and snow-covered peaks do leave you speechless. However, there are various things to do in Mestia that involve less hiking and enable you to be close to nature and see some of its iconic spots. 

This post includes affiliate links to products, which earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps to fund my blog and bring more authentic articles to you 🙂   Learn more

Please note that this non-hikers guide to Svaneti does cover a few hiking trails which are easy or moderately easy and don’t need much physical preparation.

Because let’s face it, Svaneti is known for its highland natural wonders, so without that, Mestia is just a tiny town with few things to do. And going through all the effort to get to Svaneti might not be worth it just to see Mestia. The absolute beauty of this region is in its wild nature and mountain peaks. 

Moreover, even if you are a big hiker and want to conquer the whole Svaneti, you should estimate anywhere from one week to two or even three weeks . And if you are coming to Georgia for your vacation , you most likely will be short on time unless you are coming here just for Svaneti. 

So, for those of us who are not big hikers or, for whatever reason, can’t walk long distances every single day for the entire day, or are short on time, here’s a non-hikers guide of things to do in Mestia. 

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Understanding Svaneti region

Before diving into providing all the practical information and tips, I need to explain more about the region. 

Situated on the southern slopes of the Caucasus Mountains, 3,000-5,000 meter-high peaks surround Svaneti, making it the second-highest inhabited area not only in Georgia but in Europe.

It is also home to the ten highest peaks of the Caucasus , with the highest being Shkara (5,201m), followed by Tetnuldi (4,974m), Shota Rustaveli (4,960m), and Ushba (4,710m).  

The region is divided into Zemo (Upper) and Lower (Qvemo, also spelled as Kvemo) Svaneti. Zemo Svaneti lies on the upper part of the Enguri river, while Qvemo is along the upper Tskhenistskali river. Mestia is the center of Zemo Svaneti and Lentekhi is for Qvemo. Svaneti Range separates these two areas, which is almost as high as the Caucasus range. 

Since many nations invaded Georgia pretty much the whole time, Zemo Svaneti remained almost untouched. The isolated location with harsh climate and lack of roads made it inaccessible for the enemy. Therefore, many of the country’s treasures have been preserved here for centuries and displayed in its museum. All these factors played a considerable role in keeping Svan culture and traditions intact. 

The region has its own language, Svan, belonging to the Kartvelian languages other than Georgian, Megrelian, and Tushetian . It is entirely different from any of the local languages, so I personally don’t understand any word in their language. Unfortunately, today Svan language is endangered, with fewer and fewer people speaking it. 

And to even better understand the region, its culture, and clan life, I would suggest watching an independent movie Dede , filmed in Ushguli, one of the highest communities in the country.

The movie won many international awards, and I have even met Spanish brothers who came to Georgia just because they watched Dede in Spain and were interested in the country. 

However, if you can’t find it online, several places in Mestia and Ushguli play the movie daily.  

Best time to visit Mestia & Svaneti

Due to the recent infrastructural development in the region a couple of years ago, Svaneti is now accessible almost every season. Having snowfall in winter is very common, which sometimes blocks the road, but as Svaneti has also been turned into a ski resort, the streets get cleared often and fast. 

During winter, snow might reach 5 meters high and is ideal for those who love skiing. But you won’t be able to do any other things in Mestia except for heading to the slopes. 

Summer is the best time to visit Mestia and Svaneti to hike and experience its beautiful nature. Mestia in summer sees warm days, while evenings are chilly with a bit of breeze.

I was told that fall foliage is also breathtaking in Svaneti, so if you don’t mind cold days, you might consider visiting Mestia in autumn as well. 

What to pack for Mestia & Svaneti

You should pack accordingly, depending on your Mestia itinerary. However, here are the essentials that I think you need for the hikes and in general.

Daypack: a small daypack or a backpack to carry all your necessary items during the hike – a water bottle, snacks, documents, wallet, etc. My 55 Liter Osprey Farpoint backpack has a day pack. Here is my review of the Osprey Backpack .

However, I have another backpack – CITYC 2 in 1 Backpack from Driibe . Even though it is for a city, I love its versatility and use it on small hikes too. (get 15% off with code: FEDORA15). Read my full review of the backpack .

Several T-shirts: when thinking of what to pack for Mestia, consider that you’d be hiking almost every day. Have an extra t-shirt during your hikes to change the sweaty and wet one to prevent getting cold. Even though the weather might be warm, there are slight winds in the mountains, so be cautious. 

Leggings or hiking pants: while I have seen people doing those hikes in jeans, wearing leggings/hiking pants are more comfortable, obviously. 

Comfortable shoes: if you don’t have any special hiking boots or shoes, very comfortable and light sneakers/tennis shoes will do just fine. The keyword here is comfortable as you don’t want to get any blisters or cause pain. 

Hat: any kind of hat ( I travel with a fedora ) or scarf (I always through a quick-dry Turkish cotton scarf/towel ) to cover while hiking in the open sky under the sun. 

Sunscreen: it’s easy to get sunburned while hiking in the mountains without even realizing or feeling it. Choose your preferred sunscreen .

Rain jacket: to be on the safe side. The weather in the mountains can be unreliable. Even if the sky is clear in the morning, it can get cloudy in the afternoon, followed by heavy rains. It also comes in handy in windy alpine areas, so throw in a packable raincoat .

Hoodie/Sweater: evenings and early mornings can be pretty cold or breezy, so bring one warm sweater, cardigan, or hoodie. 

How many days should you stay in Mestia? 

This highly depends on what you plan on doing in Mestia and Svaneti in general. There are dozens of hiking trails and treks available for visitors.

I highly recommend checking Trekking Caucasus’s section on Svaneti to get an idea and familiarize yourself. You can also check out fellow bloggers and vloggers, Kim and Del’s, Going the Whole Hogg YouTube Channel . Their hiking videos are simply stunning!

If you plan on short day hikes, like we did, you can cover all those locations mentioned in this Mestia travel guide in four-five days . 

We stayed six nights in total in Mestia and had a couple of other things planned. Due to technical and infrastructural problems, such as cable cars working halfway, etc., we ended up taking our time and enjoying Mestia rather than rushing through. 

How to get from Tbilisi to Mestia

Mestia is well connected with public transportation to the major cities of Georgia, including Tbilisi and Kutaisi . The distance from Tbilisi to Mestia is 466km and indeed is a very long ride in a day. I always recommend having a stopover in Zugdidi and spending a night in the central town of the Samegrelo region .  

There are flights from Natakhtari (a small village 30km away from Tbilisi) and Kutaisi to Mestia with a tiny aircraft operated by Vanilla Sky . You can buy tickets online and they cost 90 GEL from Natakhtari and 50 GEL from Kutaisi. However it doesn’t fly every day and your flight might be canceled due to weather conditions. Which happens quite often; just something to consider when planning the trip.

Before the pandemic, the most frequent route was to take the Tbilisi-Zugdidi night train and change to the marshrutka, taxi, minivan right at the arrival in the morning at around 6-6:30 am. 

However, all this has changed. Even though there are direct marshrutkas or minivans leaving straight from Tbilisi to Mestia, it’s exhausting to be in the car or somewhat comfortable marshrutka for at least 8 hours. Why would you torture yourself? 

So, here’s the best route from Tbilisi to Mestia in case you can’t fly:

If you’ll be taking public transport, the easiest one, in my opinion, is to take a Tbilisi-Zugdidi train in the morning. The ride takes 6 hours, and you will be in Zugdidi after 2 pm. While you can hop on the other vehicle and go straight to Mestia, why not stay a night in Zugdidi? This way, you will have time to relax, recharge, and visit another region of the country.

→ You can buy train tickets online at either Georgian Railway or Tkt.ge . 

You can talk to the drivers and reserve your sit in marshrutka at the train station. In case of traveling as a group, hire a private taxi/van.

Marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia costs between 30-35 GEL per person , and as it was five of us, we decided to hire a minivan. The prices for vans/taxis start from 150 GEL one way. We had the van all to ourselves and even asked the driver to make a short detour for us to see Enguri Dam, the genius construction of the Soviet era.

If you are in Kutaisi and want to go to Mestia from there, only one marshrutka a day directly drives from Kutaisi to Mestia . They leave early in the morning, and if you miss it, you can still catch the one to Zugdidi and tell the driver that you want to go to Mestia. They will help you transfer to Zugdidi-Mestia marshrutka, taxi or van. 

When returning from Mestia to Tbilisi, I suggest the same route. You can stay overnight in Zugdidi or continue directly to the capital. 

To avoid the hassle of changing all the transportation, book a private transfer via GoTrip, a platform that offers a driver service throughout Georgia. It has reasonable prices and professional drivers that adhere to safe driving standards. Moreover, you can make unlimited stops along the way.

Here are drivers you can reserve from Tbilisi to Mestia , and here are the ones that will drive you from Kutaisi to Mestia .

If you prefer joining an organized tour, here is one of the best several-day tour of Mestia, Hatsvali, and Ushguli .

Where to stay in Mestia – best Mestia hotels

Mestia has a wide range of accommodation options to suit every budget. There are plenty of guesthouses, a few apartments, A-frame cottages, and luxurious hotels, to name a few. So here are some of my recommendations on where to stay in Mestia: 

Guesthouse: Ioska’s House – this small Mestia hotel features cute decor items, amiable owners, and a great experience on its own. The prices are pretty low and even include a delicious breakfast. Our friends stayed here, and they loved every second of it. 

Apartments : Svaneti Apartments – one of the best options if you want to stay in an apartment and be on your own. With its cute and cozy interior, the place can fit up to six people. It’s also within a walking distance of the center and museums. 

Budget-friendly : Hotel Panorama Svaneti – with every room equipped with a private bathroom, the hotel is close to the center and a ski lift if you plan on coming to Mestia in winter. You can choose mountain or garden view rooms.   

Mid-range option : Hotel Old House Mestia – located on a small hill overlooking Mestia, the hotel is housed in an old residential home with a defense tower adjoining the building. With a terrace, lounge area, comfortable rooms, and a restaurant that serves delicious food, it is one of the best moderately priced Mestia hotels. 

Latour Mestia – another excellent mid-range hotel in Mestia with colorful common areas and cozy rooms. The hotel is perfect for families, couples, and friends and is close to everything. 

A-frame cottages: Wooden Huts In Mestia – located a bit far away from the center, around 3km; these huts are great if you want to spend your time alone with a group of friends, family, or partner as it accommodates about nine people in three bedrooms. It also has a space to cook your own meals. 

Bude Mestia cottages – located on the other side of the river, Bude Mestia huts offer isolated stays with garden views, a terrace, a designated fireplace in the garden, and a restaurant, to name a few. 

Luxurious option: Gistola Hotel Mestia – this 4-star hotel in Mestia offers a modern design with a touch of color and city views from its well-equipped rooms with all the amenities like a fridge, a kettle, a desk, and a safety deposit box. 

→ Find more Mestia hotels on Booking.com

Things to do in Mestia town

While there are plenty of things to do in Mestia, depending on what kind of travelers you are, this section provides the iconic places to visit in the town or have access from it. 

See the unique treasury at the museum 

One of the first things to do in Mestia is to visit the Svaneti History and Ethnography museum, even if you are not a big museum fan. The reason is that it is jam-packed with relics found in archeological excavations and kept secretly during the invasions. Georgia’s some of the most unique treasures are here instead of Tbilisi museums .

It is also a great place to understand the local culture, traditions, and attire. Admire beautiful jewelry works, weaponry, coins of various decades, ancient books and pamphlets, and more. 

• Opening hours: Tue-Sun: 10 am – 6 pm
• Entrance fee: Adults – 10 GEL

Learn more about the pioneer of Georgian Alpinism

There’s one museum to put on your list of things to do in Mestia – a house museum of Mikheil Khergiani, the pioneer of Georgian mountain climbers. Nicknamed “Tiger of the Rocks/Cliffs” because of this unique technique to rapidly climb the slopes, Khergiani was a seven-time national champion and holder of the Honoured Master of Sport of the USSR title. 

• Opening hours: Every day: 10 am – 6 pm. If there is no one, the family member who also shows you around lives next door, so you can either call the number written on the door or go next door and call them. 

Climb to the rooftop of the tower

For a bit of an adrenaline rush and panoramic views of Mestia, climb to the roof of one of the defense towers. The climb up there is exhilarating, but the way down is scarier. There are no stairs, just wooden ladders that, in some cases, are a bit shorter so, you’ll need to do slight climbing. 

Also, be aware of dirt and dust, so come in clothes that you don’t mind getting somewhat dirty. 

• Entrance fee: 2 GEL

Ride Hatsvali cable car to the top

Hatsvali is a ski resort, and taking it even in summer is a great way to appreciate mountains from a different angle. The cable car consists of two parts: Mestia-Hatsvali and Hatvali Zuruldi . The whole point of riding it is to go on the top and enjoy breathtaking scenery views while enjoying a cup of your favorite beverage at the Zuruldi cafe, located 2,340 meters above sea level. 

Unfortunately, neither the second part nor the cafe worked during our visit, so we skipped it. Therefore, before buying any tickets, make sure to double-check if the second cable car is running . However, if you are still determined, you can hike up for around one hour on a steep hill to reach Zuruldi from Hatvali station. You can enjoy picture-perfect views of Mount Ushba from Zuruldi. 

• Opening hours: Every day: 10 am – 4:30 pm. Before going, ask if the cable car works, as it doesn’t run some days. 
• Entrance fee: 20 GEL round trip, regardless of whether the second cable car works. 

Indulge in a local cuisine

Svanetian cuisine is quite different from the rest of the country’s cuisine and perfectly reflects the landscape and climate of the region. Heavy on dough and dairy products, here are top meals you need to try in Mestia: 

Kubdari: circular-shaped meat pie is Georgia’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. The filling is mainly chopped pork but can also be of lamb or beef. It’s seasoned with onions and various local spices. 

Nertsvi: mashed potato with cheese results in a scratchy and filling meal. It is incorrectly called Tashmijab in the whole country, including me until I visited Ushgli and the ladies at the restaurant corrected us. Nertsvi goes well with local sour yogurt, but you can also eat it plain. 

Tashmijab: melted Sulguni (think of salty mozzarella) cheese in the butter. 

Petvraal: Khachapuri, a cheese pie, made from millet ( petvi) flour. 

Chvishdar: small cornbread where cheese is mixed in the dough before frying. Try Chvishdar made from petvi (millet) flour; it’s more delicious than corn one. 

Svaneti salt: similar to the allspice but with salt. Most of the local dishes are seasoned with Svanetian salt. Apart from salt, the recipe calls for dried seasoning such as coriander, dill, fenugreek, red chili, cumin, and mashed garlic. 

Where to eat in Mestia

While Mestia’s dining scene has developed a lot over the years, there are still a couple of restaurants in Mestia that are everyone’s favorites. Cafe Leila comes up on every blog post or listicle of Mestia restaurants, and there is no doubt why. It offers some of the most delicious meals in town. Due to its popularity, they are almost always full, so I suggest booking a table for lunch or dinner. We mostly ate here during our stay in Mestia. 

The Old House Mestia Hotel restaurant is another excellent choice to enjoy finger-licking delicious food on the terrace with views of Svan towers. This is where we tried millet Chvishdar and absolutely loved it. One thing to note is that they made a mistake on the final bill with overcharging us for a jug of compote, so make sure to check before paying. 

Other things to do in Mestia – Day hikes & tours 

Your Mestia itinerary can vary depending on what kind of things you want to see and do. This non-hikers guide to things to do in Mestia provides all the necessary and practical information on several easy day hikes you can do around the town.

To ease up things and enable us to have more time, we hired minivans to take us to the start of the trail. However, if you are in good physical shape, don’t mind walking long distances, and have enough time, by all means, do the hike from start to finish yourself without transportation. 

See the Chalaadi Glacier up close 

This is probably the easiest day hike you can do in Mestia. If you leave early in the morning, it can even be a half-day hike. 

Many people skip it because it might not be as scenic as other hikes. However, I think it’s a great introductory hike to Mestia and Svaneti to do on your second day. You will familiarize yourself with the climate, elevation gain, and trail characteristics. 

The trail takes 1:30hr to reach the glacier and 1hr to return. The start is a bit uphill but then flattens in the middle and follows a tree-covered terrain until you enter the alpine zone. 

We missed one turn and ended up walking over huge rocks until we reached the glacier. But the scenery and landscapes were worth it. 

Dust and dirt cover the whole glacier, so you might not even realize that you can actually touch a giant iceberg. However, be cautious and don’t go close to the entrance. There are no signs, but rocks and stones do roll down! 

Logistics : minivan price starts from 100-120 GEL in total. The driver brings you very close to the starting point and waits for you until you get back.  My recommendations: After doing the hike, I would have skipped the vehicle transportation. Firstly, we stayed at the end of Mestia, where the paved road to the trek starts. We were not that far, and we could have easily walked another hour or hour and a half to reach the start of the hike. 

Heshkili Huts – not worth the hype

Heshkili Huts is an accommodation on top of a hill in one of the oldest villages of the same name. The huts got very popular among Georgians, offering cute and cozy cottages with mountains views and a big garden with hammocks and swings. 

They also have a cafe overlooking the mountains where you can have lunch or enjoy a beverage. However, the service and the food were so bad that I highly recommend skipping it. This is what I didn’t like: 

• There is no menu, not even written on a piece of paper or somewhere on the wall
• Therefore you never know prices, it may change all the time
• Limited choice of food, which is somewhat understandable
• We pretty much begged for attention from the staff members
• Our bill was the most expensive here than elsewhere in Svaneti for the same meals we ate. To give you an idea: 3 Kubdari + 3 Nertsvi (Tashmijab) + 2 Chvishdar + drinks = 103 GEL. This would have been fine if the food was tasty. 
• Due to its popularity, the place can be pretty busy and noisy.

Logistics : minivan price starts from 70-80 GEL in total. The driver waits for you. My recommendations: Instead, go for a quick drink or this Instagrammable swing located on a lower hill behind the venue.  However, there can be a queue.

Enjoy the scenic views of the mountains at alpine lakes

Koruldi Lakes, located around 10.5km away from Mestia on one of the sides of Mount Usha, is one of the popular Mestia attractions. It’s also a popular day-hikes in Mestia for those who’d want a relatively moderate hike from the town. The walk takes around 7 hours in total. 

Although the lakes themselves are not very interesting, their location and surrounding mountains reflecting in the water make it a fascinating place to enjoy spectacular views. Nestled at 2,850 meters above sea level, you can admire the famous peaks of the Caucasus, including Tetnuldi, Shkhara, Ushba, and Laila, to name a few. 

On the way up to Koruldi Lakes, there’s a nice viewpoint deck to take nice pictures, enjoy the views or relax for a bit if you are hiking all the way up. 

Bring a snack and have a picnic while enjoying the tranquility and scenic views of snow-covered mountains all around you. 

Logistics : minivan price starts from 200 GEL in total. The driver waits for you.   My recommendations: Lower your expectations – these lakes look like small ponds; however, the views and the surroundings are still worth adding it to your Mestia itinerary. If you are traveling to Mestia in May-June, the scenery is much more beautiful at this time of the year with more snow-topped mountain peaks, higher water in lakes, and more greenery adorned with alpine wildflowers. Therefore, the views are spectacular and the reflection in the water of those mountains are much more visible. While it’s nice to hire a minivan to avoid the hustle of walking uphills for 4 hours, make sure to tell the driver not to add other people to the van if you’d like to spend some time and have lunch or picnic at the spot. We had two other strangers added by the driver, and we had a conflict of interests – we wanted to stay while these two wanted to go back to Mestia. 

Hike up to the highest waterfall

Apart from the highest peaks, Svaneti is also home to one of the highest waterfalls – Shdugra – nestled at one slope of Mount Ushba.

The trail starts from the village of Mazari in the Becho community and has two ways to reach the waterfall. The one is a bit longer and starts at Grand Hotel Ushba, while the second is shorter by 3km and starts from Hikers Cafe and camping ground. This trail also continues up to Ushba Glacier if you have time and desire. 

Based on my knowledge and experience, starting the trial at Grand Hotel Ushba is not the best idea. It offers no additional sightseeing or views and adds time, while you tire the body.  

The shorter trail takes around 2hr one way to get close to the waterfall. The hike is a bit rocky and steep uphill and continues through the beautiful pine forest. There’s a wooden hut somewhere in the middle serving hot and cold beverages as well as Khachapuri bakes on a fire. I highly recommend stopping here on your way back. Coffee was 5 GEL, and cheese-packed Khachapuri was 8 GEL. 

You will also pass by the border checkpoint, so make sure to have your ID or passport. However, they haven’t checked ours. 

Once the pine forest finishes, there’s another quite steep uphill on an open sky that leads to the waterfall. This path is full of gorgeous wildflowers that I couldn’t stop photographing. The waterfall has access both from the bottom and the top. We decided to finish the hike at the bottom, have a light lunch and come back. 

Ushba Glacier : Although we haven’t continued the hike to the glacier, here are some things for you to consider. The trail continues to a steep uphill near the waterfall. It’s around 3km one day, and the path is much harder, requiring around two more hours uphill. In the case of rainy weather before, the trail can be slippery. Ask the border guards beforehand, as they might not let you go. 

Logistics: minivan price starts from 150 GEL in total. The driver brings you very close to the starting point and waits for you until you get back.  My recommedation: From mid-August the trail after the border guard point is full of mushrooms. However, do not eat them if you are not familiar with mushroom types. The last part of the trail features wild raspberry bushes, making it a nice snack for the way up. Pack something warm or a raincoat, as despite the nice weather, it’s always winty and misty at the waterfall.

Do not go to Ushguli as a Day trip

Ushguli, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the second-highest settlement in Europe, truly is a marvelous place to explore. Therefore, I highly recommend spending a night if you can instead of making a day trip.

It’s a place that seems to be stopped in the medieval period and makes you feel as if you traveled back in time. With spectacular views of the Svan Towers backdropped with the highest peak of the Caucasus, Shkhara, you won’t regret spending more time than a couple of hours here.  

My Favorite Travel Resources

To ease your travel planning, check out all the posts about Georgia travel . Additionally, here are some of the websites and services I use when preparing for my next adventure anywhere in the world.

✈ Book affordable flights on WayAway , a platform that shows the best flight deals, tours, and hotels. With a WayAway Plus membership, you can earn cashback . Get 10% off with code: RFD10

🚫 Get compensation for up to 700$ with Airhelp if your flight was canceled or delayed within the last 3 years.

🚗 Rent a car at Local Rent for affordable prices and convenient service.

❣ Pre-book a private car transfer with GoTrip from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel or any other city across Georgia.

💻 Get a VPN from Surfshark to protect your devices from hackers when using public Wi-Fi when traveling.

📱 Install the Airalo app , which provides local eSIMs for a more affordable internet connection when traveling. Get 3 USD with code: BAIA2592 .

💸 Use Wise to withdraw money in local currency without hidden fees and avoid high exchange rates. On top, you might get a Visa or Mastercard debit card .

🍷 For some of the best, expat-designed wine tours check out Eat!ThisTours . Get a 5% discount with code RFD5 .

🏨 Find budget-friendly deals on all sorts of accommodation types on Booking.com .

🩺 Buy the most flexible and budget-friendly travel insurance, SafetyWing , covering COVID .

☀ Book in advance some of the best city walks, cultural experiences, and day tours to maximize your stay and experience here.

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Great to know that there are so many fun things to do in Mestia, in addition to the hiking. I would love to take the cable car and also to try all of the amazing, delicious local food!

I would definitely go to that rooftop tower first…and then that gorgeous waterfall!

Squeeee this all looks incredible! Although I have to be honest, I think I like your suggestion of staying for a few weeks and doing even more hikes (in addition to the things you mentioned) as the scenery near Mestia looks incredible! My legs would be itching to hike everywhere, then stuff myself with gorgeous Georgian food and wine!

Ushguli looks lovely too! I reeeally hope we can visit one day!

This is such a fantastic guide! So in-depth 🙂 I’m planning a trip to Georgia next year so I will definitely be referring back to this post in the future

The waterfall, the rooftop tower, the cable car and the local cuisine would all have to be on my itinerary. Your photos are beautiful. The mestia svaneti area looks really beautiful.

About Mestia

Mestia is a municipality, in western Georgia, in the Samegrelo - Zemo Svaneti region. Mestia, as well as the whole Svaneti has the oldest history. Mestia is distinguished by its amazing, beautiful nature and abundance of cultural monuments. Stunning and unforgettable beauty of Svaneti, the Peak of Ushba, the highest peak of Georgia, Shkhara, waterfall flowing from the rocks and the alpine lakes almost as blue as the sky. Perhaps, we have to be grateful to these highest glaciers and rocks that we had ”Rock Tiger", Mikheil Khergiani and other great Svan climbers. Svan towers, unique temples, and various household and religious samples are definitely very interesting, individual and is the part of the greatest historical and cultural value of the rich and diverse Georgian culture.It should be noted that the Svan towers were used by the famous Japanese animator Hayao Miyazaki in one of his famous anime - "Laputa: Castle in the sky". Mestia is an excellent place for lovers of relaxation in the mountains both in summer and in winter. Ski resorts Hatsvali and Tetnuldi are functioning here.

Geography and Climate

The municipality of Mestia is located in the Northern part of Western Georgia, in the Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region. Its administrative center is Daba Mestia. It covers the territory of Zemo Svaneti, the Gorge of the Enguri river, from the source of the Enguri to the border of Samegrelo. Its administrative units includes: Daba Mestia, Becho, Etseri, Idliani, Ipari, Kala, Lakhamula, Latali, Lenjeri, Mulakhi, Nakra, Ushguli , Pari, Tskhumari, Tsvir mi, Chuberi, Khaishi. Zemo Svaneti was divided by Bali Ridge into Zemo Svaneti of Bali and Kvemo Svaneti of Bali. The owner of Kvemo Svaneti of Bali were Dadeshkelians, and Zemo Svaneti of Bali was called free Svaneti. Mestia municipality is a mountainous region with up to 200 glaciers, including the highest peak of Georgia, Shkhara . The main river of Mestia is Enguri and its tributaries are: Adishischala, Mulkhra, Dolra, Nenskra, Ipari, Khaishura, etc.

In Zemo Svaneti up to 2000 m above sea level, the climate is humid, winters are cold and long, and summers are short, warm and sometimes hot. The average annual temperature is 5.7 °C, -6.4 °C in January, 16.4 °C in July. The absolute minimum of temperature is -25 °C, the absolute maximum is + 35 °C. There is about 1035 mm of rainfall per year. In the highest places of Zemo Svaneti, there is a humid and nival climate deprived of real summer.

What to see

Mestia municipality is one of the most important places in Georgia with ancient cultures and acute expression of identity. It attracts many tourists. An important example of Georgian ethno-culture is the Svan Tower, which is found as attached the residential house as well as standing in a separate place. Against the background of the grand peaks, tower villages will remain unforgettable in your memory. The Svan Temples, their paintings and excellent samples of painting icons are distinguished. Especially famous are Ushguli Lamaria and St. Ivlita and Kvirike Monastery in Kala, where is the painting of the artist of the King,Tevdore. You should definitely visit the Mikheil Khergiani House-Museum and the Museum of Mestia , where you will find unique gospels, icons, jewelry, traditional clothing and various military or household exhibits. Metia nature is very rich in beautiful places where you can enjoy a comfortable stay in hotels with stunning views, also hikes with full of adventure along with tents and a bonfire. Peaks covered with snow, waterfalls, lakes placed in the kingdom of rocks and fields full of breeze will make you feel like in Paradise. This area is also attractive for lovers of skiing. In the end Mestia should not be left so unless you try the delicious Svan cuisine , the main dish of which is Kubdari .

Koruldi Lakes

Shdugra Waterfall

Chalaati Glacier

Lakumurash Toba

Memuli Lake

Okrostskali Lakes

Cultural Monuments

Lamaria (Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother Of God in Ushguli)

St. Kvirike and Ivlita Church in Kala

Archangel Church of Iprali

Nakipari Church of St. George

Mulakhi Temple of the Savior

Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography

Mikheil Khergiani House House

Hatsvali Ski Resort

Tetnuldi Ski Resort

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Where to stay In Svaneti

Bude - Cottage in Svaneti

Eco huts in Mestia

Hut of Love

Ushba Cottages

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Dear community, We’re planning on coming to Mestia next week. We would like to do the Mestia-Ushgulli trek, is this hike already accessible? We would also like to do some mountaineering, would that be possible? Kind regards, Valerie

Dear community We are planing to come to Mestia in July .is there a night train from Tiblisi ? We read that there was one. And also Is there a folklore song or dance experience that you recommend?

Hello, there is no night train or any train leading directly to Mestia. You can take public transport such as minibus from Tbilisi which costs 50 Gel per person. You can visit local cafe Laila in Mestia, they usually have the folk songs during diner time.

Dear Community, this is Thomas from Austria. We plan to come to Mestia for ski touring in spring 2023 and were wondering about the right time to come. On one hand, we have mountaineering experience and are looking forward to climb some of the 4000+ peaks in the area. On the other hand it would be an advantage if the snow is still in the lower regions, so that we can start ski touring from the valley. What do you think is the right time? At the moment we aim for 31.3. to 10.4. Plan B is from 14.4. to 24.4. What do you think about this date? Also I would appreciate any recommendation for accommodations to host 8 mountaineers as well as other activities. Thank you in advance! Best regards, Thomas

Hello, 31.3 would be better. However 10.4 might be good too. We can't say for sure, as there is still no snow in Mestia, and it started a bit snowing just today. Even ski resorts are closed yet :(. So it would be better if you contact us in mid of January about snow cover condition in Mestia. 💜 As for accommodation we highly recommend hotel Mestia Inn.

Hello, your information is very helpful! I think to come visit Mestia on the 12/4. Do you have house? will it be possible to travel Mestia in this weather? Is it snowy in this time of the year? Will it be possible to walk on the mountains around the village and to the glaciers whiteout special equipment? Thank you for your help!

Correction- do you have recommended guests house?

Hello, it is possible to travel to Mestia this time. The mestia itself is not snowy, but everything around is still snowy. No it is not possible to walk on glaciers without equipment, as it is dangerous. But you can walk in the forest nearby and in the villages. We recommend visiting Mestia from the second half of May. You can check out accommodation here: https://georgiantravelguide.com/ka/hotels?regions=37

vgijdebi mestiaze, yvelaze magari isaa rom statiasshi chem isayvarel ianimea naxsenebi sul ori anime miyvars yvelaze metad laputa da https://poti.ge/animaciuri/15697-drakonis-margaliti-qartulad.html

How can i reach there from batumi

gamarjobat martis dasawyishi tu gaqvst 2dgiani tuti dagegmili da sad gvaiyeresebs ?

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Mestia: A Journey through Georgia’s Mountainous Gem

Why visit Mestia?

How to get to mestia.

The best way to travel here is by plane. Mestia has a very small airport and therefore to get here you will need to take a small propeller plane. You can do this either from Kutaisi or from Tbilisi. The only company running these planes is Vanilla Sky . The cost of the journey from Tbilisi is 90 GEL (€31) and from Kutaisi 50 GEL (€17). The plane that leaves from Tbilisi leaves from an airport in Natakhtari. There is a free shuttle bus which picks you up opposite the bicycle monument near the Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel in Tbilisi. To see the best views on this journey you should sit on the right-hand side of the plane either from Kutaisi or Tbilisi.

There are buses from Kutaisi, Tbilisi, Zugdidi and Batumi that all travel to Mestia. So if you don’t fancy travelling by plane then it’s still possible to travel here.

Top things to do in Mestia:

2. Mestia Cable Car

3. Mavkhovris Tadzari

Where should you stay in Mestia?

Budget – Hostel SvanLand – This hostel is affordable as well as having some of the most breathtaking views in Mestia. Although it is located out of the centre, it is worth venturing out of the centre for the immaculate views.

Medium – Family Hotel Kala – This hotel offers travellers a cosy and welcoming stay, complete with comfortable rooms, local cuisine, and stunning mountain views.

High – Gistola Hotel Mestia – This hotel has modern features, a brilliant location, and stunning views of the surrounding Svaneti mountains.

Full-time doctor, part-time traveller. I am the kind of traveller who travels on a shoestring and somehow manages to pack two weeks worth of clothes, a tripod and all my books into a little rucksack.

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One comment.

How to Travel to Mestia from Tbilisi, Kutaisi or Zugdidi in 2024

Svaneti region , located in the northwestern part of Georgia, is widely known for its amazing mountainous nature, picturesque hiking trails and unique Svan towers. That’s exactly the place where the epic mountain Ushba, Tetnuldi Peak, Laila, Adishi, and Chalaadi Glaciers are located. There is also the Mestia-Ushguli Trek , which is one of the most popular trails in Georgia. Because of these and other reasons, Mestia, Ushguli, and the surrounding area were recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. No wonder there is such a growing interest in visiting and hiking in the Svaneti region .

Mainly your starting destinations to Mestia can be the bigger cities such as Tbilisi, Kutaisi, and Zugdidi. Tourism in Georgia is one of the high-growth industries , so there are quite many alternative ways to get where you intend. You can get to Svaneti by train, bus, marshrutkas, or even by plane. With this article, you can get deeper into the transportation system to Svaneti, and based on the information given below, you can choose the alternative that would work best for you.

Leaving by train

You can make Tbilisi, Kutaisi, or Zugdidi as your trip starting point. You can go to Svaneti by train, if you’ll go for Tbilisi-Zugdidi or Tbilisi-Kutaisi train. After arriving in Zugdidi or Kutaisi by train, you can catch marshrutkas from the local bus stations to get to Svaneti.

Basically, the Tbilisi-Zugdidi train runs every day at 08:30 and 6hrs 20mins is needed to get to the destination. The train ticket fare is 16 GEL (6 Euros). After arriving in Zugdidi, you can catch marshrutkas which are waiting for the train, and leave for Mestia at 15:00. There also used to be the night trains to Zugdidi. Actually, this was a great opportunity because you could easily get marshrutkas in the morning and start your hiking the same day. But unfortunately, the Tbilisi-Zugdidi night train has been canceled and hasn’t started running since due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

As for the Tbilisi-Kutaisi train , it also runs every day at 08:50 and you’ll get to the destination in 5hrs 50mins. Its fare is 9 GEL (3 Euros). You can read the detailed information about the Kutaisi marshrutka transfers down below. You can also see the schedules or book the tickets Online or visit the Central Railway Station.

Leaving by Marshrutkas

Traveling by Marshrutkas is a very popular way of transportation in Georgia, since it’s relatively cheap. But if it’s your very first time catching them, you have to take some things into consideration. Since there are usually so many people, It’s important to go to the station earlier to take your seats in advance. Marshrutka leaves the station as soon as it’s filled up. When you have a long road to go, the driver usually makes short breaks, so you can grab your lunch and have a short rest.

Marshrutkas leave for Mestia from Tbilisi , Navtlugi Bus Station daily at 07:00, costing 50 GEL (17.25 Euros). The trip takes around 8-9 hours.

You can also plan your trip by making Kutaisi or Zugdidi as your trip starting point. Marshutkas leave for Mestia from the bus stations. There are several bus stations in Kutaisi but you’ll need to catch a taxi from the Kutaisi Railway Station. You’ll need the bus station which is near McDonald’s. It’ll take around 5 hours from the Kutaisi Bus Station to Mestia and the marshrutkas leave at 10:00, costing around 40 GEL (13.80 Euros). The ticket prices are changing by season though. So if you don’t want to visit Kutaisi in particular, it’d be better to take the Tbilisi-Zugdidi train, as the bus station is right next to the railway station in Zugdidi.

As for Zugdidi-Mestia , the trip will take around 3 hours. Buses leave at 15:00 from the Zugdidi Bus Station and the ticket price is 35 GEL (12.10 Euros). You can also catch Marshrutka from Batumi Cable Car Station . The trip will take around 5-6 hours and the Marshrutkas leave for mestia once in two days at 15:00. The ticket costs 50 Gel (17.25 Euros). The Batumi-Mestia direct transfer isn’t fixed though as it’s seasonal and can change at every minute. Basically, it’s totally up to you, based on your itinerary and priorities, you can choose any of these ways to travel to Mestia .

Flights to Mestia

Probably, one of the best ways to get to Mestia is by taking a flight. There are several opportunities you can use. For example, you can take a flight from Natakhtari (Mtskheta) which is 20mins away from Tbilisi. Vanilla Sky company provides free transportation from Tbilisi center to Natakhtari airport . Flights to Mestia operate from Natakhtari four times a week , on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. The plane leaves at 10:00 and the trip takes around 30 mins. It costs 90 GEL (31 Euros). There is also a luggage limit, which is 15 kg per passenger (including hand luggage).

You can also take a flight from the Kutaisi National Airport once a week, on Wednesdays at 12:00. The flight takes 25mins, costing 50 GEL (17.25 Euros). You can see all the schedules, Tbilisi-Natakhtari transfer information and luggage limit details on the following website .

Taking a flight definitely is the fastest and most comfortable way to get to Svaneti but you have to take the weather conditions into consideration, as the flight may get canceled at the last minute due to the unfavorable weather. So, if you have a tight schedule, it can become a problem. If you still decide to take a flight, you have to book your ticket in advance as soon as possible, as so many people are interested in flying to Mestia.

Private Transfers

If you want to travel alone or with your friends quietly and avoid public transportation, you may give preference to an individual transportation system. You can use different car renting services. There are so many companies and individuals which offer renting different types of cars in Georgia. To get to Mestia, you’ll need a 4WD car. You can see rental terms on different websites, such as localrent.com .

Or if long driving through the whole country does not attract you, you can get a private transfer to the Svaneti region as well. Camp Caucasus can arrange your transfer from any city. Interested? You can get in touch here . Basically, the prices for Tbilisi-Mestia transfer start from around 700 GEL (241 Euros) and the trip will take around 8 hours.

Leaving Mestia

You can use any of these transportation ways mentioned above to leave Mestia. Mestia-Natakhtari planes operate on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 12:00. As for the Mestia-Kutaisi flight , it’s generally scheduled on Wednesdays at 13:30.

You can also take marshrutkas which leave to Zugdidi, Kutaisi, Batumi and Tbilisi from Mestia Bus Station everyday. Marshrutkas leave once a day at 08:00 in the morning. As for the prices,

Mestia-Zugdidi marshrutka costs 35 GEL (12.10 Euros),

Mestia-Kutaisi 40 GEL (13.80 Euros),

Mestia-Batumi 50 GEL (17.25 Euros)

Mestia-Tbilisi 50 GEL (17.25 Euros).

Apart from Svaneti, there are also some popular tourist destinations that you can find in our tour packages, like Kazbegi, Georgia and Juta, Georgia .

SELF-GUIDED MESTIA-USHGULI WALKING TOUR

TSKALTUBO: ABANDONED SANATORIUMS TOUR

SELF-GUIDED KAZBEGI TOUR

ALPINE LAKE TREKKING TOUR

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Travel Guide 

Mestia , though a small town in the province of Svaneti, serves as a hiking center for all wildlife lovers who plan to visit the area in the beautiful trekking season. The town is pretty far away from any other tourist destination in Georgia and to get there, you will have to spend several hours on the road. As of 2010, the small town can be reached by air using the new Queen Tamar Airport.

The area around the town has been crowned by many magazines as a "paradise for hikers" for those who are looking for wildlife that only a few tourists had visited before. You can use the town as a base for light day hiking trips or as a base for longer trekking trips that may take several days in difficult terrain conditions (you can always return to Mestia and start a different trek). In most treks, You will find a place to stay without having to carry around a tent (usually in guest houses). When it comes to nature in Georgia, there is no better place to visit than Mestia (Svaneti region) where you can enjoy beautiful glaciers, snow-capped mountains, picturesque medieval towns, lakes, and insane forests.

The town is well prepared for travelers and you can get guidance and recommendation for any type of attraction you seek, such as horseback riding, jeep tours, paragliding, and more. The most famous trek in the area will lead you to a town called Ushguli which is the highest town in Europe. The trek takes about 4 days to complete (more details in the articles below).

Please note that the weather in the area is usually colder than the rest of Georgia and there is no access to all treks all year round so make sure you prepare accordingly. All the small details that are worth knowing before traveling to Mestia can be found in the following articles.

Attractions in & arround Mestia

Mestia Travel Guide

Wander-Lush

Kazbegi, Svaneti or Tusheti—Which Caucasus Mountain Region Should You Visit in Georgia?

No trip to Georgia would be complete without a visit to the Greater Caucasus, the mountain range that forms a natural land border with Russia.

In the south of the country, the Lesser Caucasus offer similarly spectacular landscapes prime for trekking, skiing, and more.

The backdrop to countless novels and, more recently, the adventure film The Loneliest Planet , the scenery in the Caucasus is hard to beat. On top of the majestic views, you have the rich cultures and traditions of the different ethnic groups who have lived in these valleys for centuries.

While trying to devise the perfect Caucasus itinerary for our first trip to the region, I kept getting hung up on which mountain region/s we should visit. I found a lot of conflicting information online, and struggled to figure out which area would best suit our travel style.

So, to help you plan your own Georgia itinerary , I’ve put together a brief comparison of Georgia’s three most popular mountain regions: Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) , Svaneti (Mestia) and Tusheti . At the end of the post, I list some alternative destinations in Georgia where you can get your mountain fix.

Pssst: Unlike the rest of my Georgia Travel Guides, this particular post hasn’t been updated in a while. I will be refreshing this information soon for summer 2023.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Greater Caucasus Mountains: Introduction

The Greater Caucasus mountains stretch 1,200 kilometres along the Georgia/Azerbaijan-Russia border, from the Taman Peninsula of the Black Sea to the Absheron Peninsula of the Caspian Sea. The north part of the range borders the Russian territories of Ossetia, Chechnya and Daghestan.

To the south, descendants of ancient tribes and warrior clans reside in what is now present-day Georgia and Azerbaijan. Due to its geography (steep peaks, deep valleys, impassable mountains), the Caucasus has an incredible cultural and ethnic plurality. It’s second only to Papua New Guinea in terms of linguistic diversity.

Wondering what to pack for your Caucasus mountains getaway? Here’s my complete Georgia packing list .

Mountaineers will be familiar with the Greater Caucasus mountains as a premier hiking destination. For the average tourist, visiting one or more of these mountainous regions will be an unforgettable part of your itinerary.

Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)

Out of all of Georgia’s mountainous regions, the town of Kazbegi – often called by its new name, Stepantsminda – sees the most tourists. The iconic Gergeti Trinity Church (pictured above) has become a symbol for Georgia’s booming tourism industry.

Kazbegi is the most accessible of the three regions covered here and unlike the other two, the roads are conveniently open year-round. Located 150km due north of Tbilisi, it’s the best option for anyone who’s on a tight schedule and looking for an easy mountain escape from the capital.

On the downside, Kazbegi is also the most touristed of the three spots, and its location on the arterial Georgian Military Highway means the town has an almost-constant soundtrack of roaring lorry trucks. Thankfully, the traffic doesn’t detract from the scenery, which is absolutely breathtaking.

Good for: Easy hikes , scenery, luxury.

Accessibility: Excellent. It’s fast and cheap to get to Stepantsminda from Tbilisi’s Didube station (and to travel back to Tbilisi from Kazbegi ). My preferred way to travel is with a private driver hired through GoTrip . If you’re coming from elsewhere in Georgia, you must transit through Tbilisi (there is also a direct route from Kakheti ).

Recommended time to spend in Kazbegi: 1-2 nights. Allow a full day for hiking to Gergeti Trinity or a half day if you plan to go by 4WD.

Top things to see and do in Kazbegi

• Georgian Military Highway: The Georgian Military Highway is spectacularly scenic. Hire a shared taxi or private car to stop off on the way at Ananuri and the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument.
• Gergeti Trinity Church: A Georgia icon, Gergeti Trinity is a must-see. The church is perched high over the town, so you can gaze at it from wherever you are in Stepantsminda. But it’s also worth going up for a closer look. The hike is wonderful, provided you follow my advice and take the correct path ! Otherwise, you can opt for a 4WD transfer. Entrance to the church is free.
• Gergeti Glacier: Located past Gergeti Trinity on the southeastern slope of Mount Kazbek, Gergeti Glacier is a strenuous eight-hour return walk from Stepantsminda. Serious hikers can also summit Mount Kazbegi.
• Rooms Hotel Kazbegi: In Soviet times, Kazbegi was a health retreat. The old sanatorium was recently transformed into Rooms Hotel Kazbegi , one of Georgia’s premier boutique hotels (brought to you by the same crowd as Fabrika in Tbilisi). Even if you aren’t staying at Rooms, it’s well worth dropping in for lunch or a glass of wine (or both) on the deck, which boasts lovely views of the town and mountains.

Where to stay in Kazbegi

• Budget: Red Stone Guest House , a lovely family-run guesthouse with a homecooked breakfast each morning.
• Mid-range: Hotel Stancia in town offers comfortable rooms and a terrific Georgian restaurant.
• Luxury: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi , with its spa and outdoor hot tub, makes for a wonderful mountain retreat.

Also check out these spectacular mountain cabins in Kazbegi.

Because of its remote location in far north-eastern Georgia, Tusheti offers the most off-the-beaten track mountain experience of the three regions.

It may be more difficult (and more expensive) to get into Tusheti National Park ; but once you’re there, you’ll be rewarded with incomparable scenery and great Georgian hospitality.

Tusheti is the only mountain region we personally didn’t get to visit (due to road closures). It’s top of our list for next time!

Good for: Solitude, multi-day hikes, scenery.

Accessibility: Remote. A single (and treacherous) one-way road connects Omalo, Tusheti’s biggest town, with Telavi and Sighnaghi in Georgia’s Kakheti wine region . The Abano Pass is only open at certain times of year. In the winter, most residents move south and the road closes. When we were in Georgia in late May, the pass was still yet to open for the year. If you do happen to be there at the right time, it’s only possible to get to Omalo with a 4WD and an experienced driver.

Recommended time to spend in Tusheti: It takes a full day of travel to get to Tusheti from Tbilisi or Kakheti, so you’ll want to take your time once you arrive. I recommend staying for at least 3 nights.

Top things to see and do in Tusheti

• Abano Pass: One of the world’s most dangerous roads, the journey to and from Tusheti via the Abano Pass is an adventure in and of itself.
• Omalo: Most tourists base themselves in Omalo, Tusheti’s main population centre, where you can find good guesthouses and beautiful scenery.
• Shatili: The 5-day, 75km trek from Omalo to the village of Shatili is one of the most popular hiking routes in all of Georgia. Read more about it here .
• Shenaqo and Diklo: 6.4km east of Omalo, Shenaqo is a pretty village full of balconied houses. It boasts the only functional Orthodox church in the region. 4km east of Shenaqo, Diklo village is known for its old fortress and valley views.
• Dartlo: 15km east of Omalo, Dartlo overlooks the Pirikiti Alazani Valley. There are a few guesthouses in town, making it an ideal place to stop if you’re on a multi-day hike.
• Stone towers: Dotted throughout Tusheti’s villages (and also found in Svaneti and beyond), stone defensive towers or murkvam are reminders of the Caucasus’s tumultuous past. Whole families once lived inside the towers, designed to protect the residents of valley hamlets from invaders and marauders. Built between the 9th and 13th century, the towers can be up to 25 metres tall and are an unmissable feature of the Greater Caucasus landscape.

Where to stay in Tusheti

• Omalo: Nabadi has modern rooms and a lovely stone dining room.
• Shatili: Jurkha’s Shatili Tower offers accommodation inside a historic stone tower.

I’m told that the traditional residents of Svaneti, the Svan,still got around in chain mail up until the mid-19th century. Home to one of the Caucasus’s most fascinating ethnic groups, this is a great place to experience not only hiking and nature but Svanetian culture, history and food.

Located in north-western Georgia, the biggest town of Mestia is just 245km from Kutaisi , making Svaneti an ideal choice for anyone flying in and out of David the Builder airport (now serviced by Wizz Air). Even if you’re transiting through Tbilisi but your itinerary includes Western Georgia, Svaneti is a must-visit.

Good for: Culture, history, food, single- and multi-day hikes.

Accessibility: Good. Svaneti’s main town, Mestia, can be reached by marshrutka from Kutaisi (approximately 5.5 hours) or Batumi via Zugdidi (approximately 6 hours). See this guide for details .

The road to Mestia is open year-round, but the more treacherous drive to Ushguli along a steep cliff face is often closed in winter summer months (roughly November to May).

Recommended time to spend in Svaneti: 3-4 nights. Mestia has great accommodation options and is a very comfortable little town, with the best range of restaurants, cafes and bars of any of the three regions mentioned here.

It’s a good place to relax for a couple of days – and after the drive up, you’ll need a day or two to recuperate.

Top things to see and do in Svaneti

• Mestia: Svaneti’s main popular centre is well-equipped for tourists. The main town square is a pretty spot to sit and sunbathe. It’s also where 4WDs and marshrutka wait each morning to ferry tourists to Ushguli.
• Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography: Located in Mesia, this award-winning museum defied my expectations. Exhibits cover various aspects of Svanetian history and culture (including a large section devoted to costume and textiles ), and will help you to better understand the local area.
• Ushguli: Technically a collection of several villages, Ushguli lies 47km (or about 2.5 hours drive) west of Mestia at the head of the Enguri gorge. Chazhashi, one of the villages, is preserved as a museum-reserve and is home to more than 200 murkvam stone towers. Incredibly, many of them are still occupied by families today. Minivans depart Mestia for Ushguli daily (during the on-season) and cost 30 GEL per person return. Alternatively, you can hike to Ushguli over 4 days.
• The Tower of Love:  Located on the road from Mestia to Ushguli, the Tower of Love was set up by an enterprising local resident. Basically, it’s a fine example of a  murkvam stone tower sitting on the bank of a delightful little stream. Pay the small fee, and you can climb the series of wooden ladders right to the top. It’s worth doing for the chance to see what the living conditions are like inside.
• Khatsvali Ski Resort: Outside of skiing season, this fir-tree lined resort transforms into a day hikers’ paradise. Chairlifts operate year-round.
• Single-day hikes: There is a wealth of single-day hikes to do around Mestia—the most popular being to Chalaadi Glacier and Koruldi Lakes .
• Svanetian cuisine: When in Svaneti, you must sample the region’s distinctive (and indulgent) cuisine. Highlights include kubdari , or Svanetian meat pie, a khachapuri bread stuffed with mince meat, and chvishtari , a pan-fried cornmeal bread stuffed with cheese. Cafe Laila , right on the town square, is the most popular eatery in town and serves all the local favourites.
• Eat Svanetian salt: Trust me, it’s worth a mention! Svanetian salt is an addictive concoction made from sea salt and spices: fenugreek, dill, coriander, caraway, marigold and red pepper. You’ll find it on the dining tables of every good guesthouse and restaurant in the area. We purchased a few bags from our guesthouse to take back to Tbilisi as a gift for our Airbnb hosts – it went down very well.

Where to stay in Mestia

• Budget: Mononi’s Guesthouse offers comfortable rooms and home-cooked meals.
• Cabins: Eco Huts in Mestia is a lovely wood cabin set in a pine forest walking distance from town.
• Mid-range: Guest House Old Seti offers modern rooms.

Alternative Caucasus mountains destinations

Looking for something different? Try one of these alternative mountain destinations in Georgia.

Pankisi Valley

Home to Georgia’s Kist minority group, this gorgeous valley is a great jumping-off point for treks or horse-riding expeditions in Tusheti. There are marked trails in the hills around Jokolo Village, where you’ll also find a handful of homestays . Pankisi offers a great combination of history, culture and outdoors.

A ski resort town located off the Georgian Military Highway between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Sitting on the south-facing plateau of the Greater Caucasus mountains, Gudauri boasts fantastic views of the mountain range. It’s easy to reach from Tbilisi by marshrutka .

One of Kazbegi’s highest settlements, Juta is located 24km east of  Stepantsminda, close to the Chaukhi mountain range. Check out Fifth Season cabins if you’re headed this way.

Located 100km (approximately 4 hours by marshrutka) northeast of Kutaisi, Racha-Lechkhum-Kvemo Svaneti Planned National Park, or Racha, sits in the upper Rioni river valley at the foot of the Greater Caucasus mountains. As well as gorgeous mountain-scapes, the park contains Shaori, the region’s largest lake, and the town of Nikortmsinda, with its 10th century temple.

See my full travel guide for Racha-Lechkhumi here .

Lagodekhi Protected Areas

Located in the northeast corner of Georgia’s Kakheti district, where Georgia meets Azerbaijan and Russia, Lagodekhi Protected Areas is one of the country’s most unique landscapes. From the town of Lagodekhi (150km east of Tbilisi), you can take a multi-day hike right up to the mountains and lakes that form the border with Daghestan.

It’s not the Greater Caucasus mountains, but Bakuriani in Georgia’s southern Borjomi district is another popular mountainous spot for tourists, especially those who like to ski. Located on the northern slope of the Trialeti Range, Bakuriani is 180km from both Tbilisi and Kutaisi . You can visit Bakuriani as a day trip from Tbilisi .

Elsewhere…

There is, of course, a huge swathe of mountains that lies between the population centres mentioned above. It’s possible to explore a lot of it on foot, either independently or with a guide. I’m no trekker ( did you notice? ), so if you’re looking for more advanced hiking routes in the Caucasus, I’ll refer you to Caucasus Trekking , the premier authority on the subject.

Georgia essentials

Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend for Georgia. Check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.

FLIGHTS: Search for affordable flights to Tbilisi, Batumi or Kutaisi on Skyscanner .

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip with HeyMondo , my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance (get 5% off when you book with my link).

SIM CARD: Magti is my preferred provider, with prices starting from 9 GEL/week for unlimited data. See this guide for all the details about buying a Georgian SIM card .

AIRPORT TRANSFERS: Most flights into Georgia arrive in the early hours. For ease, pre-book a private transfer from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel (from $17) or from Kutaisi Airport to Tbilisi (from $90) with my partners at GoTrip.ge.

ACCOMMODATION: Booking.com is the most widely used platform in Georgia. Use it to find family guesthouses, private apartments, hostels and hotels around the country.

CAR HIRE: Find a great deal on a rental car in Georgia – use the Local Rent website to book through a local agent (prices start from $20/day).

DAY TRIPS & CITY TOURS: Use Viator or Get Your Guide to browse a range of day trips and city tours. For off-beat programs, I recommend Friendly.ge (use the promocode wanderlush for 10% off). For in-depth day trips to Georgia’s wine regions, I recommend Eat This! Tours (use the promo code wanderlush for 5% off).

PRIVATE TRANSFERS: GoTrip.ge is a terrific service for booking a private professional driver and car for the day. Use it for A-to-B transfers, a customised round-trip itinerary, or a multi-day trip. You can stop wherever you like for as long as you like without the fixed price going up.

NEED SOME HELP?: Need feedback on your itinerary or personalised travel tips? I offer a one-on-one consultation call service for Tbilisi and Georgia. More information and bookings here .

Have you spent time in Georgia’s Greater Caucasus mountains? What is your favourite spot?

Caucasus mountains: Pin it

Great information! How do you get to Ushguli from Mestia? And any suggestions on budget accommodation in Ushguli?

Thanks Sezgi! There are local (shared) taxis to Ushguli from the main square in Mestia. This guide has the details: https://wander-lush.org/tbilisi-to-svaneti-how-to-get-to-mestia/

There are lots of budget-friendly guesthouses in Ushguli. A friend of mine recently stayed at Chvibiani and enjoyed it.

Thanks, Emily!

Thanks, Emily! Very useful info!

Hi! Thanks for sharing all that info! My plan is to visit Georgia the first two weeks of April. If I had to pick between Mestia or Kazbegi, what should I pick? Also, do you think that there is any chance to get to Ushguli by marsrutka or I need to stay in Mestia only? Final question, does Kutaisi worth a visit so I add it for a day as well?

Hi Simeon – if you have two weeks in Georgia, you could plausibly do both. Svaneti is more spectacular in my opinion. You should be able to get to Ushguli. It depends on the weather, so you will have to ask around when you arrive (or ask your guesthouse ahead of time for some intel). I am biased, but I think Kutaisi is wonderful – you should definitely spend a day and night here!

Stunning pictures and article! Thanks for sharing!

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Ultimate Guide to Trekking Mestia to Ushguli in Georgia

Georgia is a country that is still wonderfully under-the-tourist-radar. This is a pleasant surprise, considering its close proximity to Western Europe and its beautiful mountain landscapes. During our hike from Mestia to Ushguli in Georgia, we hiked large stretches of trail without meeting a single soul. 

Marty from Intrepid Road and I hiked Mestia to Ushguli in the autumn, which was an incredible time of year. The valleys were filled with yellows and oranges as far as the eye could see on the forested trails, and we had no problems finding guesthouses. 

Watch our travel vlog of the Mestia to Ushguli hike on the Intrepid Road YouTube channel!

To start this hike in Georgia, head to  Mestia , a cozy little town at the foot of many towering mountains. From here, it’s four days of hiking village-to-village, stopping at local homestays, to reach  Ushguli . Ushguli is a remote village that will transport you back in time to when shepherds rode horses to herd their cows and sheep.

Here’s what you need to know before setting out on this hike from Mestia to Ushguli. For more detailed, day-by-day information, check out my personal experience blog  of the hike. 

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Itinerary how to get from tbilisi to mestia food & accommodation camping on the trail packing list wifi/internet connectivity budget getting from ushguli back to mestia getting from mestia to tbilisi fast-tracking from ushguli to tbilisi , mestia to ushguli trek itinerary.

Duration: 4-6+ days recommended in the Svaneti region, 4 reserved for the hike from Mestia to Ushguli

If you catch the overnight train back to Tbilisi on the same day you arrive in Ushguli, you can complete the hike in only 4 days.

If you stay longer to do side treks in Ushguli , or relax in beautiful Mestia, budget 6+ days.

• Tbilisi to Zugdidi by train, overnight – Day 0
• Zugdidi to Mestia by minivan, trek Mestia to Zhabeshi (16 km) – Day 1
• Zhabeshi to Adishi (10-12 km) – Day 2
• Adishi to Iprari (17 km) – Day 3
• Iprari to Ushguli (12 km) – Day 4
• Ushguli to Mestia by taxi/van (25-35 Lari) – Day 5
• Mestia to Zugdidi, overnight train to Tbilisi – Day 6

Read my blog about my  Trek Experience from Mestia to Ushguli ! 

How to get from Tbilisi to Mestia by Train

Two trains leave from Tbilisi’s main train station to arrive in Zugdidi in western Georgia. One train leaves first thing in the morning, and the other is an evening, overnight train. To give yourself time to trek on the first day, I recommend taking the overnight train , which arrives in Zugdidi at 6am.

At the Zugdidi train station, plenty of taxis, minivans, and busses wait around to take trekkers up to Mestia. The fastest options are the taxis and minivan, which tear up the mountain roads at life-threatening speeds! We  paid 20 Lari ($7 USD) for a seat on the minivan to Mestia , and we arrived in Mestia at 10am. The cheaper option is going by bus, but it may take even longer than 4 hours to reach Mestia to start the hike.

Food & Accommodation

During the hike when you arrive at a village for the evening, the locals walking around can help you find a guesthouse. If no one is about, the guesthouses are clearly marked , usually with a hand-written sign outside the building.

Hikers can pay for just the room, but for  a standard 50 Lari ($15 USD) per person , trekkers get breakfast and dinner included. You can negotiate to include a pack lunch for the next day as well.

Tip : There are barely any markets or shops on this trail!! The food I ate over 4 days of trekking came exclusively from what the guesthouses fed me when I stayed at their accommodation. If there are trekking snack staples you want for the trek, buy them in Tbilisi before heading to Mestia and Ushguli. Basically the last chance to buy anything besides beer is in Mestia .

Camping on the Trail

The trail between Mestia to Ushguli is extremely camper-friendly , as long as you bring your own food and gas. You’ll find many open grassy spots next to rivers, at scenic viewpoints, etc that I would have loved to camp at if I had the gear. Many guesthouses will also offer food-only prices for campers who didn’t bring their own food.

The only downside is not having shops along the way to stock up on food, gas, and water if you didn’t bring enough with you from Tbilisi.

Mestia to Ushguli Hike Packing List

Because the guesthouses fulfill all the food, water, and accommodation needs (even towels and soap), there’s really not much extra you need to bring with you on this trek. Here’s what I would bring with me if I were to do this trek again:

Day bag (I used my  63L multi-day bag , that was only half filled) Medium-heavy jacket 2x Long-sleeve shirts 2x T-shirts for trekking Trekking shorts or pants Thermal leggings Shorts for sleeping T-shirt for sleeping 4-6 changes of underwear Flip flops for wearing around guesthouse Hiking shoes  (but it’s also possible to do in sneakers) Toothbrush/toothpaste Deodorant Sunscreen Toiletries: shampoo, soap, toothbrush/toothpaste (sometimes you can use the soaps at guesthouse) Ibuprofen/other medicines Kindle  or book to read in evenings Phone + charger

Check out my Trekking in Nepal packing list for more ideas on what to pack for your Mestia to Ushguli hike.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Erika's Travelventures (@erikavtv) on Nov 10, 2018 at 3:46pm PST

WiFi/Internet Connectivity

3 out of 5 guesthouses I stayed at including in Mestia and Ushguli had WiFi available. Another one just had a hotspot from the guesthouse owner’s phone, so we didn’t use it but it was there in case of emergencies. 2 of 5 guesthouses with WiFi had streaming speed fast enough that we were able to watch Netflix in the evening!

If you had bought a SIM card in Tbilisi before heading to the mountains too, apparently connection was good for most of the trek, even when going over the mountain pass.

Mestia to Ushguli Hiking Budget

*Updated in 2021

Getting there : The train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi was 35 Lari ($11 USD), and the minivan from Zugdidi to Mestia was 20 Lari ($7). There were also taxis and a small bus running from Zugdidi station to Mestia for different prices.

On the Trek : The guesthouses charged us and other trekkers we spoke to a flat 50 Lari ($15 USD) for a double or triple room, dinner the night of arrival, and breakfast the next day. It’s possible to negotiate having lunch included in the price as well. This means your daily budget for the trek is an easy $15 USD.

Getting Back : The minivan from Ushguli back to Mestia was 35 Lari ($11), which was a bit pricey but when we didn’t have a lot of options first thing in the morning. The van from Mestia back to Zugdidi was 20 Lari ($7) again, and the latest one leaves at 4pm arriving around 8pm. This gives you plenty of time to make the overnight train back to Tbilisi which leaves at 10pm (another 35 Lari, $11).

In total, over 2 nights in the train and 5 nights in the mountain villages, I spent a little under 500 Lari ($158) . The only time we splurged was in Mestia: the same 50 Lari for a really nice guesthouse didn’t include dinner, so we ate at the incredible  Cafe Laila . We also hung out at  Cafe ErtiKava  (because it sounds like Erika) all day the next day while waiting for our van to back Zugdidi.

Getting from Ushguli back to Mestia

The morning before your planned departure, reserve seats in a van heading to Mestia . This can be done at many guesthouses around the village. I paid 35 Lari for this ($15) , but if you leave with others it could be around 25 Lari ($12).

It’s also possible to walk to the center of town to catch a van. There may be a few waiting around next to the bridge to take people to Mestia. If you’re on a time constraint, it may not be wise to wait for these, because they will only depart once the van is full or nearly full. 25-35 Lari is standard for this short ride – bargain too hard and the driver might leave you behind!

Getting from Mestia to Zugdidi, and back to Tbilisi

There are many companies that offer rides to Zugdidi for 20 Lari ($10) from Mestia. They leave town frequently all throughout the day, and the last one leaves at 4pm .  Since Mestia seems like a better place to hang out than Zugdidi,I recommend booking a seat on this 4pm van. The van I took was delayed slightly and left closer to 5pm, but we still arrived at the Zugdidi train station around 8:30pm .

If you find yourself with some time to spare at the Zugdidi train station, there’s a gas station convenience store one block away that has free bathrooms, a bakery combined with a cured meat section, and some stools and tables to hang out at.

The overnight train back to Tbilisi leaves at 10:15pm , and costs 35 Lari ($15) for a standard bed. Tickets can be bought at the station, or online in advance.

There are also vans and taxis that will offer to take you to the coastal town Batumi . This is a budget destination with many high-rise apartment buildings and hotels. Although there’s not a lot of history here, it’s a beautiful place to see the modern side of Georgia.

Getting from Ushguli to Zugdidi on the same day

I arrived into Ushguli at around 2pm from Iprari on Day 4 of the trek, after leaving Iprari at 8am. I would have had plenty of time to hop on a van to Mestia, and arrive there before the last van leaves for Zugdidi at 4pm .

The Mestia to Zugdidi van costs a standard 20 Lari ($10), and can be bought at the Mestia bus station. The overnight train from Zugdidi back to Tbilisi leaves at 10:15pm and is a standard 35 Lari for a bed ($15). If you are on a time constraint, it’s best to book the tickets online ahead of time .

Parting Tips

Luckily for short-term travelers, it’s possible to trek from Mestia to Ushguli on a tight time frame and be back in Tbilisi after four days. 

However, I recommend spending at least five days in the Svaneti region and having a rest day in Mestia and/or Ushguli. It’s worth spending an extra day in one of these villages to appreciate the landscapes, interactions with the locals, and breathe the fresh mountain air! 

If you want to learn more about what my hike was like, read my hiking experience blog , or check out our YouTube video of the hike.

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Guide to Hiking the Pyramid at Girraween National Park

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I can only imagine how useful all this advice will be to people looking to do the same trek. Especially the stuff about there not being any shops: who would expect that?

I love checking out little markets in other countries, so not having any on the trek was the only disappointing thing for me

The mountain views are amazing! I would love to camp on the trails and to wake up to the breathtaking views everyday. I tend to sleep well outside … must be the mountain air! The food served at the guesthouse looks yummy-what a feast. Shame there aren’t any shops to stock up on snacks for the trek. A great detailed itinerary!

Thanks! I would definitely recommend this trek for campers, it’s truly a beautiful place to wake up each morning!

What a beautiful hike! I love that it is in a slightly more unknown place and such a reasonable cost too! Your guide is really helpful and gives all the important details.

The trek trail on the Caucasus mountains seems really interesting. Thanks for sharing all the details of the plan and the tips as well. It would be so helpful for people who would like to trek the same trail. Plus I must say the photos are too good.

Thanks, it was such a beautiful place it would be hard to take not-so-good photos

I have recently learned of how beautiful the mountains on Georgia are. This guide is very useful for planning the trip, which I look forward to taking at some point. I take it you felt safe the whole time?

Yes, I felt completely safe! If you’re interested in reading about my day-to-day experiences on this trek, I wrote this post that summarizes it 🙂

That’s very generous that the guest houses along the way from Mestia to Ushguli include breakfast and dinner–and packed lunch negotiable. Your meal at Zhabeshi looks to die for! I was surprised to hear you would also have wifi in what appears to be such a remote destination. It looks heavenly!

I love to hike but not sure whether I would want to hike over 4 days. However, the views are very very beautiful. I have heard about Georgia and Tblisi before but not the region where you hiked. The prices seem very reasonable and it looks like a wonderful option for those on a budget who want a more authentic experience than other places in Europe.

It was an authentic experience for sure! If you don’t want to trek so many days in a row, there are many day-treks that go from Mestia and Ushguli as well!

What a beautiful part of the world to hike in! I’ve not yet been to Georgia, but it’s great to read about other places like Mestia. That’s quite surprising there aren’t more places to get food; I’m a newbie hiker but I know you need to eat small snacks in between to keep your energy up!

Exactly, I love snacking while trekking so I wish I had known to bring more of my own snacks! I highly recommend visiting Mestia, even as a newbie hiker

Wow what a sight! Love that you’re highlighting a lesser known destination to all wanderlusters out there. You make hiking look so easy!! Thank you for the tips & this great travel suggestion. It looks like the best views are during autumn. Will surely check it out!

Thanks, I’m happy I can share Georgia’s beauty with everyone. I just read about someone who hiked in the spring when there were wildflowers everywhere… I might have to go back for that view too 🙂

I missed visiting the Svaneti region on my trip to Georgia a couple of years back. I did the usual Tblisi – Kazbegi – Kakheti Wine region – Mksheta itinerary due to the shortage of time but I was well aware of what a lovely place I was missing out by not going to Svaneti. Since Georgia is only a 3-hour flight away from where I live (Dubai), I plan to go back and spend 5 days in just Svaneti. This is a very helpful guide, I’d love to hike in the region from Mestia to Ushguli and also since I will be travelling to and fro from Tbilisi, it is useful to know the best way to get there and the costs involved, thank you!

I’m glad I could help! I wish I had gone to Kazbegi when I was in Georgia… I’ll have to go back!

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Port of Baltimore suspends ship traffic after bridge collapse: What it means for travel

Travel is being impacted by Tuesday’s Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse along Interstate 695 in Baltimore, Maryland. 

Drivers were immediately directed to take alternate routes through the city, following the early morning incident. What’s less clear is what the bridge collapse may mean for upcoming cruises in and out of Baltimore.

“Vessel traffic into and out of the Port of Baltimore is suspended until further notice,” the Port of Baltimore posted on X, formerly Twitter.

Live Updates: Baltimore's Key Bridge collapses after ship hits it; construction crew missing

Rep. Kweisi Mfume, D-Md., whose district includes the bridge and the port, called the collapse an “unthinkable horror” and said he had spoken with Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg and the White House. 

Learn more: Best travel insurance

“They are responding with all of the assets at their disposal,” he said in a statement. “Our prayers right now are for the missing individuals and victims of this tragedy. We thank God for the effective service of our first responders.”

Here’s what we know.

Which cruises go to Baltimore?

Several major cruise lines serve Baltimore. According to the Cruise Lines International Association, the industry’s leading trade group, published itineraries in the 2024 calendar year include a dozen ships making 115 stops in Baltimore.

“We are deeply saddened by the tragedy and collapse of the Key Bridge that occurred last night and extend our support and heartfelt prayers to all those impacted,” CLIA spokesperson Anne Madison said in an emailed statement. “We join everyone in extending our thanks and appreciation to the first responders and emergency workers in Baltimore, the U.S. Coast Guard, and other professionals who are working with one goal in mind—to save lives. We are closely following this situation.”

Carnival’s website shows Carnival Pride and Carnival Legend also have sailings into or out of Baltimore set for April. 

Carnival Legend will temporarily move operations to Norfolk, Virginia.

The ship's current cruise, which left for a planned round-trip sailing from Baltimore on March 24, will end in Norfolk on Sunday. Passengers will then receive free bus rides to Baltimore. The vessel's next cruise will sail round-trip from Norfolk later that day.

“Our thoughts remain with the impacted families and first responders in Baltimore,” Carnival president Christine Duffy said in a statement. “We appreciate the pledge made by President Biden today to dedicate all available resources to reopen Baltimore Harbor to marine traffic as soon as possible. As those plans are finalized, we will update our future cruise guests on when we will return home to Baltimore, but in the meantime, we appreciate the quick response and support from officials in Norfolk.”

The cruise line has not yet shared plans for Carnival Pride. Carnival's parent company, Carnival Corp., said the temporary change in homeport is estimated to have an impact of up to $10 million on adjusted EBITDA and adjusted net income this year, according to a news release .

Royal Caribbean's Vision of the Seas, which left from Baltimore on March 23 , will return to Norfolk instead on April 4. "Our guests on board will be provided compensation and complimentary shuttle transportation as well as Wi-Fi and phone calls to adjust their travel arrangements," a spokesperson said in an email.

The ship's April 4 and 12 cruises will leave from Norfolk, too. "Our guests booked to sail with us will receive compensation due to the necessary adjustments made to their vacations," the spokesperson added. "After returning from the April 12 cruise, Vision will head to the Bahamas for its previously scheduled maintenance."

Was your cruise itinerary changed?: What to do next

American Cruise Lines has roundtrip sailings from Baltimore scheduled in May, according to its website.

“We will monitor the situation and make adjustments to future cruises if needed, but at the present time our schedules remain unaffected, and our thoughts remain with those affected by the immediate situation and rescue efforts underway,” an American Cruise Lines spokesperson told USA TODAY.

Norwegian Cruise Line doesn’t appear to have any Baltimore sailings until September on Norwegian Sky . The line will stay in contact with the port and share any changes with passengers and travel partners, according to a spokesperson.

"In the meantime, we wish the city of Baltimore strength during this very unfortunate event," they said in an email.

Alternate routes for the Baltimore bridge

Most drivers can take Interstate 95 (Fort McHenry Tunnel) or Interstate 895 (Baltimore Harbor Tunnel) to avoid the collapsed bridge. However Maryland Transportation Authority notes there are some exceptions .

Vehicles carrying hazardous materials, including more than 10 pounds of propane, are not allowed in the tunnels. Additionally, vehicles more than 13-feet and 6-inches high or 8-feet wide may not use the 1-895 Baltimore Harbor Tunnel. Vehicles more than 14-feet and 6-inches high or 11-feet wide may not use the I-95 Fort McHenry Tunnel. 

Those vehicles should use the western portion of I-695 instead.