nissan safari rd28

Nissan RD28T

The RD28T has a cast-iron cylinder block, an aluminum cylinder head with SOHC (Single overhead camshaft) and two valves per cylinder and Garrett GT17 turbocharger. The Nissan RD28T compression ratio is 21.2:1. Cylinder bore and piston stroke are 85.0 mm (3.35 in) and 88.0 mm (3.27 in), respectively.

The Nissan RD28T with turbo-charger produced 115 PS (85 kW, 114 HP) at 4,000 rpm or 125 PS (92 kW, 123 HP) at 4,400 rpm of horsepower and 235 Nm (23.9 kg⋅m, 173.3 lb⋅ft) at 2,400 rpm or 255 Nm (26.0 kg⋅m, 188.0 lb⋅ft) at 2,400 rpm of torque.

The breakdown of the engine code is as follows:

• RD – Engine Family
• 28 – 2.8 Liter Displacement
• T – Turbocharged

General information

Cylinder block.

The RD28T cylinder block has a monoblock high-strength cast iron structure and seven-bearing-support system. The engine has a drop-forged steel crankshaft with balance weights. The RD28T turbodiesel motor has two compression and single oil control ring. The cylinder bore is 85.0 mm (3.35 in), piston stroke is 88.0 mm (3.27 in) and compression ratio rating is 21.2:1.

Main bearing cap bolts tightening procedure and torque specs: 69-78 Nm; 7.0-8.0 kg·m; 51-58 ft·lb After securing bearing cap bolts, make sure crankshaft turns smoothly by hand. Connecting rod bearing cup bolt Step 1: 14-16 Nm; 1.4-1.6 kg·m; 10-12 ft·lb Step 2: 37-45 Nm; 3.8-4.6 kg·m; 27-33 ft·lb Crankshaft pulley bolt 142-152 Nm; 14.5-15.5 kg·m; 105-112 ft·lb Flywheel fixing bolts 137-157 Nm; 14.0-16.0 kg·m; 101-116 ft·lb

Cylinder head

The RD28T has a one-piece aluminum cylinder head with single overhead camshaft and two valves per cylinder: one intake and exhaust made of special heat-resistant steel. The camshaft is driven by a timing belt from the crankshaft. Intake valves are 39.0 mm (1.54) in diameter, and the exhaust valves are 32.0 mm (1.26 in). The Nissan RD28T motor is equipped with self-adjusting hydraulic tappets.

Head tightening procedure and torque specs: M12 bolt Step 1: 29 Nm; 3.0 kg·m; 22 ft·lb Step 2: 113 Nm; 11.5 kg·m; 83 ft·lb Step 3: Loosen all bolts completely Step 4: 29 Nm; 3.0 kg·m; 22 ft·lb Step 4: 118-127 Nm; 12.0-13.0 kg·m; 87-94 ft·lb or turn all bolts 100-105° Crankshaft gear bolt 123-132 Nm; 12.5-13.5 kg·m; 90-98 ft·lb

Maintenance data

Vehicle applications.

11 Comments

boa noite muito esclarecedor e completo obrigado

Its helpful

I would like to know the price of the engine and the way how you will send it to me. For further discussion please use my email or My cell phone no. +251911403756 or +251911456263. I will be waiting your answer. Thank you in advance.

Last time I texted you about the engine RD28 but I didn’t get your reply. So would you Please tell me the price of the above mentioned motor. I will be expecting your answer. Thank you in advance.

The engine number is RD28T

We are not a trading company. It is an informational site.

Dear sir would you please to inform me where to get this engine.Thank you in advance

Trying to find a 1998 Rd 2.8 Turbo Diesel Valve clearance and how to adjust, can not find !

Would like to know where I can get this engine. I’m in Zimbabwe my name is Webster I’m available on this number +263772881143 or email [email protected] your responds in this matter will be greatly appreciated.

Regards Webster

On the engine power specs. There’s a diffrence. 115 PS and 125 PS. What does the “PS” mean?

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RD28 engine: Your guide to the Nissan Patrol motor

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It seems very odd, but Nissan’s 2.8-litre turbo-diesel six-cylinder as seen in Australian-delivered Patrols, actually began its development journey as a petrol engine. What’s strange about that is that petrol and diesel engines usually have vastly different design parameters to account for their differing characteristics.

A diesel engine’s bottom end (crankshaft, con-rods and pistons) for instance, are usually much stronger (and, therefore, heavier) to account for the huge forces inside any engine with a compression ratio between about 17:1 and 20:1 (typical for a diesel ). This rotating mass is one of the reasons diesel engines don’t rev as fast as petrol units, but it also means that a lot of petrol engines won’t stand up to the internal pressures and forces trying to tear such an engine apart.

Read More: Check out Adventure Guide

But there has been at least one Nissan petrol engine that was stout enough to take on this challenge, and that engine was the RB series of inline six-cylinder petrol engines with capacities anywhere from two to three litres. And, if you talk to people in the know, that’s precisely what the 2.8-litre turbo-diesel , the RD28 was spun off. The RD28 will bolt up to the same bell-housing bolt-pattern as an RB and even the engine mounts are interchangeable. There are even rumours that the cylinder heads can be interchanged with minor modifications.

Obviously, there were still differences internally, but the basic cast-iron block and alloy cylinder head were retained, as were the bore centres, the belt-driven overhead camshaft and seven main-bearing crankshaft which, in RD28 form, was a steel forging. Obviously, that design heritage made the RD28 a light-duty diesel engine, but Nissan buyers knew that and, if they required a vehicle to tow bigger loads, there was always the 4.2-litre diesel option in local Patrols .

Read More:  Nissan Patrol GQ Y60 used review: 1988-1997

Speaking of which, the RD28 arrived down under in the engine bay of the 1995 GQ Patrol, selling alongside the 4.2 and the two petrol engine options (one of which was a carburetted version of the RB30 engine, meaning that both petrol and diesel derivatives of the one engine were available from the same showroom at the same time.

In GQ Patrol tune , the RD28 was good for 85kW of power and 235Nm of torque or about the same as the non-turbo 4.2-litre diesel was offering in the same vehicle. Again, though, buyers understood the strong points of each engine and made their choices according to how the Patrol would be used (not to mention that the 2.8 turbo-diesel was around $8500 cheaper than a 4.2). By the time the GU replaced the GQ , Nissan had improved the output of the RD28 to 96kW and 252Nm, but it was always a five-speed manual-transmission only deal.

Read More:  Nissan Patrol GU Y61 Used Review: 1997-2015

Driving an RD28-powered Patrol was a bit of an acquired taste. The turbocharger seemed pretty slow to build boost which meant that there was a considerable delay between putting your foot down and the vehicle responding with an increase in velocity. Drivers who could be bothered soon learned that they had to make good (and frequent) use of the gearshift if they wanted anything like decent progress, but even once the boost had arrived, it could be a bit underwhelming in the 2.3-tonne Patrol . In Australia, where lazy driving is the norm, the RD28 has a distinct reputation for being gutless.

But there are other facets of its reputation that aren’t great, also. The most common issue owners come up against is a front crankshaft pulley (that drives the alternator and water pump) that comes loose on the snout of the crankshaft. When that happens, it begins to fret and damages the crankshaft to the point where it’s a throw-away. Experts reckon owners need to use a torque-wrench to check the tension on the crank-pulley nut regularly, and to always assemble it with a thread-locking compound, and lots of it.

Cracked cylinder heads can be another problem with the RB28 and a weeping head gasket can be the first sign of trouble with the head. Fuel-injection pumps are also known to be troublesome and expensive to replace. Actually, replacement part supply seems to be another of the down-sides to RD28 ownership. Because the engine was only sold here for a handful of years, getting hold of spare parts can be a tough battle.

Overall, the RD28-powered Patrol is destined to be seen as the poor relation when it comes to Nissan Patrols, and the only thing that saves its reputation even a little is that the engine that replaced it, the four-cylinder diesel ZD30 engine, was even worse when it came to reliability.

Read more Nissan Patrol advice:

-  TD42 engine: Your guide to the Nissan turbo diesel motor

-  G60 Patrol: Your guide to the Nissan 4WD

-  MQ Patrol: Your guide to the Nissan 4WD

-  Series 4 Patrol: Your guide to the Nissan 4WD

-  SWB Patrol: Your guide to the Nissan 4WD

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Engine Nissan RD28

The 2.8-liter Nissan RD28 diesel engine was produced by the concern from 1987 to 1999 and was installed on many popular Japanese sedans such as Cedric, Gloria and Laurel. A modification of the engine with an electronic high-pressure fuel pump and the RD28E index was installed on a taxi until 2009.

The RD series also includes internal combustion engines: RD28T and RD28ETi .

The engine was installed on:

• Nissan Cedric 6 (Y30) in 1985 – 1987; Cedric 7 (Y31) in 1987 – 1991; Cedric 8 (Y32) in 1991 – 1995; Cedric 9 (Y33) in 1995 – 1999;
• Nissan Gloria 8 (Y31) in 1987 – 1991; Gloria 9 (Y32) in 1991 – 1995; Gloria 10 (Y33) in 1995 – 1999;
• Nissan Laurel 5 (C32) in 1986 – 1989; Laurel C33 in 1989 – 1993; Laurel C34 in 1993 – 1997;
• Nissan Patrol 4 (Y60) in 1987 – 1995;
• Nissan Skyline R31 in 1985 – 1990.

Specifications

Disadvantages of the rd28 engine.

• The cylinder head of this diesel engine cracks easily from overheating;
• The timing belt resource is about 90 thousand km, and when it breaks, the valve bends;
• Engine revs at idle usually float due to sensors or their wiring;
• There are oil leaks from the crankshaft oil seal or oil cooler gasket;
• By about 100 – 150 thousand km, hydraulic lifters most often begin to knock.

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• Vehicle Tech Forums
• Diesel Tech / 24 volts

Nissan RD28 diesel conversion (swap)

• Thread starter oldbeaver
• Start date Mar 30, 2010

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• Mar 30, 2010

Hello, new to the Forum. Saw that you people know little about Nissan RD28 diesel engine and it`s possibilities for a swap. I did it about 4 years ago and engine is running smooth until now, and improving every time I can. Be aware that I did the swap in a Mercedes car. Details here: https://sites.google.com/site/rd28engineswap/ Best, Old Beaver  

Tofudebeest

So you want to know if this motor is a good candidate for a Land Cruiser? If so, which one? I know the SD-33 (and SD-33T), which were put in International Scouts, are very suitable diesel conversion candidates in Cruisers. Isn't the RD28 the motor they put in the sedans? If so, it might not be a good choice for a Cruiser, simply because of the vehicle's weight. It is turbo or naturally aspirated? What's the displacement, redline and torque?  

canucksafari

Tofudebeest said: I know the SD-33 (and SD-33T), which were put in International Scouts, are very suitable diesel conversion candidates in Cruisers. Click to expand...

Club 4X4 Panamá

Hmmm ... I hear very few mentions of the QD32ETi - that came in Terrano from the mid-90s. I have one currently and they are surprisingly quick with 105KW. I would be very happy with one in a Cruiser if no YotaMota was available ...  

Probably fine if you don't mind electronical controls. IMO, no computers equals durability and ease of repair. I take an old school engine - even if it means 5-10 hp less. Adding your own turbo and intercooler to the same cc old school engine, you will probably get more hp than with the factory electronically controlled injection and turbo/intercooler system.  

Fair comment re electronics (NZ$1500 to get a fuel pump rebuilt to replace a sensor - a common problem I hear).  

I speak Toyota

oldbeaver said: Saw that you people know little about Nissan RD28 diesel engine and it`s possibilities for a swap. Click to expand...

rchalmers3 said: I think aged platypus is trying to stir sumthin. Lets take this to chat. Rick Click to expand...

canucksafari said: So mario hasn't enlightened you yet about the good old TD4.2, eh? The absolute worst diesel engine has to be the Nissan RD30. It comes by its nick name for good reason... Click to expand...

• Mar 31, 2010

Correct. That's the ZD. Put it this way, I have seen way more posts on Outerlimits about grenading ZD30 then the 2-LTE engine heads. I'm heard that if you ensure the MAF sensor is clean all the time, you reduce the possible granade by at least 50%. Not sure what your are refering to by Merc. The TD4.2 5spd does between 10-15L/100 kms depending on what type of driving, load and speed. So far the TD4.2 auto hasn't gotten better than 12L/100kms. That's an estimate based on the odometer, since some @sswipe stole my GPS.  

canucksafari said: Correct. That's the ZD. Put it this way, I have seen way more posts on Outerlimits about grenading ZD30 then the 2-LTE engine heads. Click to expand...

canucksafari said: I'm heard that if you ensure the MAF sensor is clean all the time, you reduce the possible granade by at least 50%. Click to expand...

From the ZD30 experts (aka victims)... ZD30 Engine Problems ZD30 Grenade - WARNING SIGNS - Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum The Granade Factor - Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum Lots more from out there but three threads should be enough. Thankfully, I don't have any first hand experience.  

canucksafari said: From the ZD30 experts (aka victims)... ZD30 Engine Problems ZD30 Grenade - WARNING SIGNS - Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum The Granade Factor - Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum Lots more from out there but three threads should be enough. Thankfully, I don't have any first hand experience. Click to expand...

Ok .. a bad component don't make a bad engine .. but if you buy a Patrol wich whatever engine it comes you expect it last ( the complete car ) 10 - 15 years . ?  

Dougal said: Bottomline is: To melt a diesel you need extremely high EGT's, which requires right foot down hard. With an EGT gauge it's easy to spot when things aren't right and lift the right foot. Click to expand...

Tapage said: Ok .. a bad component don't make a bad engine .. but if you buy a Patrol wich whatever engine it comes you expect it last ( the complete car ) 10 - 15 years . ? Click to expand...

canucksafari said: Don't know where I said "melt" in any of my posts. Click to expand...

canucksafari said: The 1,000,000 plus km engine is the TD4.2. My older one is now 19 yrs old and the other 18 yrs old and they both have a lot of kms to go. I am sure the corrosion will get them before the mechanicals will. Click to expand...

• Apr 1, 2010

Dougal said: Melt is how the ZD30's die. What did you think happens? Do you know of any 1,000,000km TD42's or is this just speculation? Most TD's that I see are pretty smokey with only a few hundred thousand km on them. Click to expand...

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Right from day one, Safari took the decision to develop a snorkel system that exceeded the air flow requirements of the gutsy RD28-T turbo diesel engine.

This of course applies to components that are not visible.

For example in order to achieve the optimum air flow and the maximum user convenience (for other under-hood accessories), a special smooth bore tough wall connection hose was engineered to closely couple the snorkel body to the standard air intake assembly. This specialized hose is specifically constructed for positive sealing at each end and is exceptionally tough to eliminate any possibility of hose collapse under suction - and super tough to withstand high under-hood temperatures. In addition, this special hose delivers a shot of cool fresh air directly into the air cleaner assembly. The result is maximum engine performance and bullet-proof durability.

In other words, maximum engin e performance and the best possible fuel economy, but also the best structural integrity for a lifetime of hassle-free motoring over and through the world's toughest terrain. A bonus is that the use of this special hose delivers the maximum convenience for those who wish to install additional under-hood accessories.

Huge air flow is but one aspect of the ultimate in snorkel design. The Safari air ra m is designed to perform two very important roles. The most obvious is to funnel cool clean air into the snorkel body - but just as importantly, the Safari air ram acts as a highly efficient water separator to remove rain water from the incoming air stream - thus ensuring safe engine operation through even the most torrential tropical storms.

In addition, the detachable Safari air ram can be rotated to any position. This means great peace of mind for those who plan to travel in cold or high altitude conditions where heavy snow falls are anticipated. By rotating the air ram to face away from the prevailing wind/direction of motion, the air ram delivers additional protection from the choking effects of snow build-up inside the air intake.

The Safari Snorkel body and air ram are manufactured to the highest standards in durable, UV stable, cross linked polyethylene material. In addition, the substantial material wall thickness delivers huge physical strength to ensure that the snorkel breezes through the toughest off-road conditions on the planet.

The Safari Snorkel system is supplied as a complete and comprehensive system that includes every nut, bolt and bracket required for installation - right from robust zero-corrosion stainless steel studs, self-locking nyloc nuts and large diameter anodized body washers through to the tough plastic A-pillar inserts.

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3 ROW Aluminum Radiator For Nissan Safari Patrol Y61 GU 2.8/3.0 TDI RD28 ZD30 TD42 4.2 MT

Purchase options and add-ons.

• Core size: 900mm*450mm*52mm
• Overall size: 920mm*550mm*60mm
• Inlet/Outlet: 35/35
• Row: 3 ;Manual only
• Radiator Cap: included

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Nissan Safari Y61 Crankshaft Pulley RD28

KSh  18,940.00

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY RD28

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Nissan Safari Y61 Crankshaft Pulley RD28 Brand: Febest Part No: NDS-RD28 OEM No: 12303-0Y800 FITS: NISSAN NISSAN SAFARI Y61 1997.08- [GL] Follow us on Facebook for the latest offers See more Nissan parts

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For the first time Rosatom Fuel Division supplied fresh nuclear fuel to the world’s only floating nuclear cogeneration plant in the Arctic

The fuel was supplied to the northernmost town of Russia along the Northern Sea Route.

The first in the history of the power plant refueling, that is, the replacement of spent nuclear fuel with fresh one, is planned to begin before 2024. The manufacturer of nuclear fuel for all Russian nuclear icebreakers, as well as the Akademik Lomonosov FNPP, is Machinery Manufacturing Plant, Joint-Stock Company (MSZ JSC), a company of Rosatom Fuel Company TVEL that is based in Elektrostal, Moscow Region.

The FNPP includes two KLT-40S reactors of the icebreaking type. Unlike convenient ground-based large reactors (that require partial replacement of fuel rods once every 12-18 months), in the case of these reactors, the refueling takes place once every few years and includes unloading of the entire reactor core and loading of fresh fuel into the reactor.

The cores of KLT-40 reactors of the Akademik Lomonosov floating power unit have a number of advantages compared to the reference ones: a cassette core was used for the first time in the history of the unit, which made it possible to increase the fuel energy resource to 3-3.5 years between refuelings, and also reduce the fuel component of the electricity cost by one and a half times. The FNPP operating experience formed the basis for the designs of reactors for nuclear icebreakers of the newest series 22220. Three such icebreakers have been launched by now.

For the first time the power units of the Akademik Lomonosov floating nuclear power plant were connected to the grid in December 2019, and put into commercial operation in May 2020. The supply of nuclear fuel from Elektrostal to Pevek and its loading into the second reactor is planned for 2024. The total power of the Akademik Lomonosov FNPP, supplied to the coastal grid of Pevek without thermal energy consumption on shore, is about 76 MW, being about 44 MW in the maximum thermal power supply mode. The FNPP generated 194 million kWh according to the results of 2023. The population of Pevek is just a little more than 4 thousand, while the FNPP has a potential for supplying electricity to a city with a population of up to 100 thousand people. After the FNPP commissioning two goals were achieved. These include first of all the replacement of the retiring capacities of the Bilibino NPP, which has been operating since 1974, as well as the Chaunskaya TPP, which has already been operating for more than 70 years. Secondly, energy is supplied to the main mining companies in western Chukotka in the Chaun-Bilibino energy hub a large ore and metal cluster, including gold mining companies and projects related to the development of the Baimsk ore zone. In September 2023, a 110 kilovolt power transmission line with a length of 490 kilometers was put into operation, connecting the towns of Pevek and Bilibino. The line increased the reliability of energy supply from the FNPP to both Bilibino consumers and mining companies, the largest of which is the Baimsky GOK. The comprehensive development of the Russian Arctic is a national strategic priority. To increase the NSR traffic is of paramount importance for accomplishment of the tasks set in the field of cargo shipping. This logistics corridor is being developed due regular freight voyages, construction of new nuclear-powered icebreakers and modernization of the relevant infrastructure. Rosatom companies are actively involved in this work. Rosatom Fuel Company TVEL (Rosatom Fuel Division) includes companies fabricating nuclear fuel, converting and enriching uranium, manufacturing gas centrifuges, conducting researches and producing designs. As the only nuclear fuel supplier to Russian NPPs, TVEL supplies fuel for a total of 75 power reactors in 15 countries, for research reactors in nine countries, as well as for propulsion reactors of the Russian nuclear fleet. Every sixth power reactor in the world runs on TVEL fuel. Rosatom Fuel Division is the world’s largest producer of enriched uranium and the leader on the global stable isotope market. The Fuel Division is actively developing new businesses in chemistry, metallurgy, energy storage technologies, 3D printing, digital products, and decommissioning of nuclear facilities. TVEL also includes Rosatom integrators for additive technologies and electricity storage systems. Rosenergoatom, Joint-Stock Company is part of Rosatom Electric Power Division and one of the largest companies in the industry acting as an operator of nuclear power plants. It includes, as its branches, 11 operating NPPs, including the FNPP, the Scientific and Technical Center for Emergency Operations at NPPs, Design and Engineering as well as Technological companies. In total, 37 power units with a total installed capacity of over 29.5 GW are in operation at 11 nuclear power plants in Russia. Machinery Manufacturing Plant, Joint-Stock Company (MSZ JSC, Elektrostal) is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of fuel for nuclear power plants. The company produces fuel assemblies for VVER-440, VVER-1000, RBMK-1000, BN-600,800, VK-50, EGP-6; powders and fuel pellets intended for supply to foreign customers. It also produces nuclear fuel for research reactors. The plant belongs to the TVEL Fuel Company of Rosatom.

Rosatom obtained a license for the first land-based SMR in Russia

On April 21, Rosenergoatom obtained a license issued by Rostekhnadzor to construct the Yakutsk land-based SMR in the Ust-Yansky District of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia).

ROSATOM and FEDC agree to cooperate in the construction of Russia's first onshore SNPP

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Rosatom develops nuclear fuel for modernized floating power units

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Solution to RD28T glow plug problems FOREVER!!!!

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Mate of mine replaced his RD28T with the same TD42 glow plugs and also ran the TD42 Glow computer which resulted in the system working like a TD42  

My RD28T has done 320,000 km so far and no glow plug problems (now I've said that they will probably play up tomorrow). When I do have glow plug problems I will do as you have done. I love the idea of manual glow plugs and believe afterglow is a stupid idea.  

Good tip.. although i paid $4ec for TD42 Plugs from motor traders...  

well done! now you just have to buy the TD42 to go with the glow plugs  

i have the same set up with my glow plugs only thing dont like about it is if cars cold and in a rush slows me down alittle bit haha and quick question whats a ruff price on getting reduction gears done and what dose it do cheers ??  

OK! Fair point. I know where your coming from! But as a 2.8 owner all I ever hear is 4.2 owners giving it to me about how **** my car is. So in an attempt to get some back I put the gears in. Lots cheaper than buying a 4.2! And when I don;t tell people their jaws drop to the ground in shock! Hehehehe! At no point do I directly compare the engines as if they are two apples, I just see my orange as a better truck with the gears than the apples and all their torque they produce. Anyway, back to the reason I started the tread. I'm so happy to have my truck starting properly now. Stupid complicated factory system. Feels like such a win!  

glow plugs hey mate.. did the same thing about my 2.8td glow plug problem... is there a particular td42 glowplug that i need to buy, or are they are all the same?  

I'm quite interested about this glow plug problem. And it has given me such ideas so far to think if it would fit up for my own vehicle in the near future. I hope that you guys would continue to keep the thread up for new knowledge for all of us who reads it.  

are all the TD42 glow plugs the same or would i have to get certain ones? im going to get a mate of mine who is a auto elec to rig this up for me.  

also have u had any problems with this system since u rigged it up?  

Hey GQALVGQ Nah mate after all this time and a nice cold winter here in Perth the TD42 plugs are going awesome. Starts like a champ still.  

thanks for this thread. very helpful.  

P That's this forum for ya. Saves paying someone else lots of money for easy fixes  

I wish I had seen this thread 18 months ago! I used to own a 2.8 and the stupid glow system used to give me the ****s big time. I used to just glow it about six times with the key before trying to start it in cold weather just to get the bastard going.  

T_Diesel said: I used to own a 2.8 and the stupid glow system used to give me the ****s big time. Click to expand...

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goldtrol said: In the tough stuff the lack of LSD is a killer and I'm not a fan of the little diffs. Click to expand...

goldtrol said: But it looks like more of a touring truck you've got now and the 105 does that well. Click to expand...

I've posted a Time Switch system for the ZD30 in the GU section which could be readily adapted to the 2.8. Making it a auto system for the exact time you want the plugs to glow. Cost about $50...... however the reason for the post is...... most metal tips take 5 to seconds just to achieve their operating temp, meaning your 6 seconds on the press to operate switch might be a little on the short side, which may cause diesel knock on start. I'd suggest you consider 20 to 30 seconds (similar to the old 1H and 2H Landcruisers which were 25 seconds max) Next time you have a metal tip plug out... do a short test across a battery and observe how long it takes to achieve it's designed temperature. My 2 bobs worth  

q8160 said: most metal tips take 5 to seconds just to achieve their operating temp, meaning your 6 seconds on the press to operate switch might be a little on the short side, which may cause diesel knock on start. I'd suggest you consider 20 to 30 seconds Next time you have a metal tip plug out... do a short test across a battery and observe how long it takes to achieve it's designed temperature. My 2 bobs worth Click to expand...

Excellent thread, Just done this mod, works perfect. Thank you  

First i'd like to thank goldtrol for putting me on the right track with this thread. But i think there is an even cheaper/easier way if you find that your glow plug relay isn't operating when it should. On my 2.8 the glow plug relay would work probably 40% first cold ignition cycle and the rest would be cycling the ignition several times/cranking or doing the glow plug dance to the 2.8 gods, on some occasions has left me strandard. So I decided to have a crack at goldtrol's fix tonight. After doing a recon mission and pulling off a couple of panels and looking at the glow plug wiring diagram in my gregory's after replacing coroded earth cables, cleaning any earth terminal i could see in the engine bay. I saw in the wiring diagram that the main glow plug relay signal wire (powers the bar that crosses all glow plugs) doesn't go straight to an earth after the relay, it uses the control unit to switch the earth on/off. So i found the wire that goes from the main glow plug relay to the control unit (behind drivers kick panel) and tapped a wire into it before it goes into the control unit which then goes to a momentary switch and the other side of the switch is earthed. Glowed it for about 6 seconds and it started instantly, you couldnt get the grin off my face. I was dancing in the street, punching the air. I will never have the fear of it not starting again. Wooo  

cobba said: First i'd like to thank goldtrol for putting me on the right track with this thread. But i think there is an even cheaper/easier way if you find that your glow plug relay isn't operating when it should. On my 2.8 the glow plug relay would work probably 40% first cold ignition cycle and the rest would be cycling the ignition several times/cranking or doing the glow plug dance to the 2.8 gods, on some occasions has left me strandard. So I decided to have a crack at goldtrol's fix tonight. After doing a recon mission and pulling off a couple of panels and looking at the glow plug wiring diagram in my gregory's after replacing coroded earth cables, cleaning any earth terminal i could see in the engine bay. I saw in the wiring diagram that the main glow plug relay signal wire (powers the bar that crosses all glow plugs) doesn't go straight to an earth after the relay, it uses the control unit to switch the earth on/off. So i found the wire that goes from the main glow plug relay to the control unit (behind drivers kick panel) and tapped a wire into it before it goes into the control unit which then goes to a momentary switch and the other side of the switch is earthed. Glowed it for about 6 seconds and it started instantly, you couldnt get the grin off my face. I was dancing in the street, punching the air. I will never have the fear of it not starting again. Wooo Click to expand...

I knew id find the thread somewhere Drew about this........im about due to do the conversion Now, was there anyone that had done this so you dont need a momentary switch on the dash? IE key on like normal until the glow light goes out? (does this involve the use of the TD42 glow plug relay too?) My glow plugs were fine until i had to have them replaced at 370k, and in the last 2 service periods ive had 2 glow plugs **** themselves :/  

Yeah Matt this one's popped up randomly one or two times since it went up with thankyou notes. What ever you do don't waste another dollar on those ceramic POS plugs. I looked into a timer when Q8160 suggested it and left it alone. I didn't want the timer to not be controlled by temperature like the original factory one did. That way the plugs aren't glowing when you do a hot start and running the risk of damage. I suppose the idea of the whole thing was to make it as simple as possible for me after the frustration of the factory system. Let us know how you go anyway.  

well i priced TD42 plugs, at 23 bucks a piece...........versus RD28 ones, at 93 bucks a piece........i think i know where im sold only reason i asked on the timer / control module is it makes it simpler for non-diesel minded people to drive my car (or the ones that know its on a timer based key on). Simplifies it if someone has to borrow my car (theres enough instructions as is)  

just thinking out alloud here.. are you able to relay off something, that comes on with ignition, and then off with start? using the 87a on the relay?  

Oil pressure light?  

im making assumptions here that the factory system runs not only off a timer based relay, but a temperature sensitive relay too (for hot start conditions). correct?  

that im not sure about matty, i know on mine, that the glow light stays on relatively the same time when it's stone cold, or if I've been driving it for a few hours. could you actually run the signal to a relay from the glow light on the dash? btw, my suggestions could he totally bogas.. jus trying to help out.  

Oil pressure light would be a goer I reckon. But maybe not so ideal if you leave the ignition on accessories for a long period of time unless it was to open circuit the timer relay.  

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