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In Greece, It’s Almost Normal

In Athens and on the island of Paros, a visitor joins other international travelers in search of that idyllic European vacation they’ve been yearning for.

By Charly Wilder

The plaster-cast heads of Dionysus were back. The unblinking blue Mati evil eyes and Parthenon refrigerator magnets hung once more outside the souvenir shops of Plaka and Monastiraki, where shopkeepers tended to rows upon rows of leather sandals, silver meander rings, dried spices and Cretan mountain tea. The tourists were back, too, if not quite so many as one might expect in the historic heart of Athens on a similarly brilliant, blue June day of years past.

They strolled Pandrossou Street in their masks, filling the restaurant terraces that line the sinuous alleyways of the Psiri neighborhood as the sun set to share plates of mashed fava beans, grilled octopus and Greek salad. The streets hummed with the din of voices and clinking glasses, but no music. Music would not be allowed for one more week. The masks were mostly off now, revealing contented, sun-dazzled faces — and maybe the slightest flicker of lingering unease.

On May 14, Greece officially opened its doors to vaccinated and Covid-negative visitors from much of the world, including the United States. In doing so, the country jumped ahead of a broader European Union reopening at a time when coronavirus cases remained high and more than three quarters of the Greek populace was still unvaccinated . It was a gamble Greece couldn’t afford not to make, after seeing its economy shrink a staggering 8.2 percent in 2020. The country welcomed only 7.4 million visitors last year, compared to 34 million in 2019, when travel and tourism accounted for more than 20 percent of the gross domestic product.

“It’s beyond wanting. We need the people to come back,” said Chara Lianou, an Athenian with dyed-lilac hair and matching acrylics who was serving coffee at Kafeneion 111 in Monastiraki. “The economy needs it, and going back to work, you feel like you are doing something. The communication with the people, even the bad ones, they make my day,” she said as a new group of patrons settled in beside us.

I arrived in Athens on a Saturday in early June after a brief scare in which I very nearly missed the 24-hour deadline for electronically submitting a Passenger Locator Form , or PLF, one of several new measures required for anyone entering Greece from abroad. At least six people were refused boarding on my flight from Berlin for failing to submit the PLF or doing so incorrectly. Anyone entering the country from abroad must also have proof of vaccination or a negative test (not older than 72 hours for P.C.R., or 48 hours for antigen) and medical personnel are stationed at the airport to perform tests as needed at mobile laboratories. When I visited, there was a mask mandate and social distancing in all public places, even outdoors, though it’s since been narrowed to indoor and very crowded outdoor spaces.

For the unvaccinated, there’s a further element of uncertainty.

“You’re always a bit worried,” said Sonia Higuera, a Colombian pharmaceutical representative visiting Athens from her home in Switzerland, where only about a third of the country is vaccinated. “Like what happens in the event I’m positive and I have to stay for 14 days in this country doing quarantine?”

And yet with all the restrictions , the Greek gamble seems to be paying off. A month after reopening, coronavirus cases in the country reached a record low while visitor numbers continue to climb — especially from the United States, where airlines like American and United are offering more direct daily flights to Greece than at any other time.

“I talked to one of my friends right before I came, and he’s like, you’re the fourth person I talked to today who’s going to Greece. What’s going on in Greece ?” said Melissa Pappas, a New Yorker visiting the Acropolis with her father and sister. They booked the trip last-minute after learning of the reopening and were exploring Athens before heading north to climb Mount Olympus.

“When Greece opened up May 14, we said, let’s go,” said Alla Wilson, a marketing director from Memphis visiting Greece with her husband of one year. “We got married in May 2020 and had to cancel everything. So, technically, this is our honeymoon and our anniversary trip,” she said.

After arriving in Athens, Ms. Wilson and her husband hiked through northern Greece before heading to the islands, Santorini and Antiparos. “We’re super happy we were able to come when we did,” she said. “It’s the perfect time. It felt totally safe. You avoid the crowds. You don’t have to wait in line.”

‘And now the foreigners are coming’

To be sure, the popular tourist sites were significantly less crowded when I visited than they were a couple of years ago, when a high-season Athens visit was starting to feel like a bad call. I found myself nearly alone at times in the shadow of the Parthenon — that lodestar of Greek antiquity that Le Corbusier, the influential modernist architect, called “the basis for all measurement in art” — something that would have been all but impossible in years past. An Acropolis guard told me that when the site first reopened in April, many Greeks came to visit, often for the first time. “And now the foreigners are coming,” she added. “which makes us very cheerful.”

There may be nowhere in the world that had as drastic a transition from full lockdown to global reopening as did Greece. As late as early May, there was still a 9 p.m. curfew and residents could only leave their homes for a limited number of essential reasons with official government permission through an automated text message system. But only a month later, I went to visit the newly opened restaurant Tzoutzouka in the ex-industrial Rouf neighborhood southwest of Omonia Square and found the terrace full with chicly eccentric Athenians across at least three generations.

“It’s amazing — always a full house,” said the chef Argyro Koutsou. “We had faith that it would be good, but we didn’t expect that it would be so much so soon.” Though she has no formal culinary training, the Athens native gained a cult following while cooking at restaurants on the islands of Zakynthos, Paros and Chios, where she became known for her adventurous cuisine that jumps from region to region, sampling and reinterpreting traditional Greek recipes using ultra-local, unexpected ingredients. “I use things that most people don’t,” she says. “I am a head-to-tail person. I love the wild fish that is not very noble. If it’s fresh and it comes from good water and you treat it with respect, it’s always a tasty dish.”

Highlights at Tzoutzoukas include mashed yellow split peas from the tiny island of Schinousa with pickled calamari and, from the village of Arachova, a fermented mixture of grain and yogurt called trahanas, which is served with smoked mackerel, lemon thyme and mascarpone and spiced with Carolina reaper chili oil. Along with Annie Fine Cooking in the Neos Kosmos neighborhood, Tzoutzoukas is one of several Athens restaurants run by female chefs that opened for the first time during the wider Greek reopening — so far, to great success.

“We were worried that people would be sort of numb, but it was exactly the opposite,” Ms. Koutsou said. “The first days, you would see at the table that the friends who met would not touch. But after three weeks, as vaccinations increase, people are opening up a lot.”

Of course, not everyone is so gung-ho about the reopening — especially after last year, when Greece opened to tourists only to see Covid rip through the country at the end of the summer, flooding the hospitals and leading to stringent lockdowns.

“In June and July the cases were so low that we completely forgot about the virus and then suddenly in August it started going crazy. And we were like, OK, we’re all going to die now,” said Ariadni Adam, a journalist for Vogue Greece. “And I think that if we go about it the same way, September is going to be the new Athenian variant or Greek island variant or whatever. I’m in favor of tourism opening, because I do realize it’s our economy and we need to bounce back, but you still need to monitor the situation.”

I spoke to Ms. Adam at the National Gallery in the Pangrati district, a museum primarily devoted to post-Byzantine Greek Art that opened in March after an eight-year, 60-million-euro (about $71.6 million) expansion, one day before the 200th anniversary of the Greek War of Independence. A temporary exhibition focuses on that period of the country’s history, but I was most entranced by two extraordinary Greek modernist painters: Konstantinos Parthenis, whose dreamlike, post-Impressionist works reinterpret Byzantine and Hellenistic imagery, and his student, Yannis Tsarouchis, who perhaps more than any other came to define Greek modernism with his arresting depictions of sailors, soldiers and other male bodies.

In the coming months, the Greek culture calendar is bursting back into bloom, with outdoor festivals, like the Athens and Epidaurus Festival , featuring a Brian Eno performance on Aug. 4 at the base of the Acropolis, and an Onassis Culture exploration into artificial intelligence, as well as more niche gatherings, like the return in October of the cultish electronic music festival Nature Loves Courage to the shores of Crete.

“Our main goal now is to create content that is not about what we’ve missed but what we long for. Art about the present,” said Afroditi Panagiotakou, the director of Onassis Culture, which is also sponsoring the seventh Athens biennale this fall.

A rush of euphoria

After a few days in Athens, I headed to Piraeus to catch a ferry to the islands, making sure to fill out my form confirming I had recently tested negative or was fully vaccinated (it’s honor system on the ferries). We cast off in the early evening, and I felt my first real rush of post-pandemic travel euphoria as I watched the sunset glint golden over the Aegean Sea from the wind-blown rear deck, where Greeks and foreign visitors filled the tables to eat and drink, smoke and talk late into the evening.

“I’m going to paint and I’m going to make pottery and I’m going to swim and I’m going to eat,” said Carolyn Nichols, a retired cosmetologist and sometimes-artist from Santa Barbara, Calif., sharing a bottle of wine with friends on the deck. She was headed to Amorgos for three weeks, a trip she booked without a second thought when she learned Greece was opening. “I want to travel while I can still walk, talk and find the airplane,” she said.

We stopped at Syros after nightfall, the lights of the port and illuminated hillside church domes glittering over the darkened sea, then continued on to Paros, my final destination. Known for its ancient marble quarries and classic Cycladic hamlets, Paros is a favorite with affluent Europeans, especially the French, whose villas and vacation homes are scattered throughout the island.

Many of them had returned, either by air, by ferry or perhaps by mega-yacht, a segment of Greece’s travel sector that not only weathered the current economic slump, but is thriving beyond all expectations. As I was reminded by Fotis Geranios, a charter manager for the International Yacht Corporation , it bears remembering that for many of the wealthiest people on the planet, the last year and a half has been very good for business.

“Last season was good, not amazing, but this year is crazy,” he said, adding that Americans make up a large part of the increase. “They spent last year in the Bahamas and now they want to return to the Med. The last six months have been busier than ever before.” He had many charters last year where the passengers never got off the boat, Mr. Geranios said. They would dock for supplies and sail on.

But it was another story for the hotels, restaurants and other small businesses across the islands, so many of which depend heavily on an influx of foreign visitors to stay afloat. For them, the reopening is a lifeline.

“It’s like war. It’s crazy. Life is beautiful and then suddenly everything changes,” said Mario Tsachpinis, the 38-year-old president of the restaurant association of Naoussa, Paros’ most picturesque and popular settlement, whose restaurant Mario sits in Naoussa’s elegant old port. It was an extremely difficult time for the restaurants on the island, said Mr. Tsachpinis, whose father opened the traditional ouzo place a few doors down and whose brother owns the taverna next door.

But after months of fear, uncertainty, lockdowns and ever-shifting regulations, the tourists were finally back, clinking glasses of local wine over Mario specialties like sun-dried octopus with spicy lemon jam, and risotto with saffron, fresh vegetables and white fish as the sunset bathed the old harbor dock in rose gold and magenta.

“Two years ago was the best year in decades, so it’s not a good idea to compare to that, but this year is much better than last year,” said Nikos Frantzis, a former financial journalist who runs Bungalows Marina , a simple but tasteful hotel just outside Naoussa, with his wife, the food writer Niki Mitarea. “It‘s better than our expectations,” he added. “So that makes us more optimistic about the future.”

I spent much of my last day on Paros at Kolymbithres, the island’s most remarkable beach, which sits within a vast, shallow bay where giant curved rock formations worn marble-smooth by the passage of time rise from the soft sloping sand to form a string of natural salt pools and secluded coves.

“It’s like a breath of fresh air,” said Orpheus Christopoulos, a tattooed local in swim trunks selling cocktails on the beach when I asked him how he felt about the reopening. “It was a strange winter, a hard winter,” he said. He lost his father to Covid. The lockdown was extreme: “The hardest part was the local fishermen couldn’t even go fishing,” he said.

“Life on the island changed a lot. We miss the music. We miss the Panigiri,” Mr. Christopoulos added, referring to the traditional festivals of music, food and dance that have gone on for centuries in Greek island villages until the pandemic brought them to a halt. It’s still unknown when the Panigiri will return.

But before long, another drink seller ran down to the beach with a portable speaker slung around his shoulder blasting reggaeton, grinning. A nearby group of French sunbathers voiced their approval. A Romanian couple proposed a toast. The music was against the rules. We all knew it, but as the waves lapped the rocks under the white-hot Aegean sun, no one seemed to care.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook . And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places list for 202

The best time to go to Greece

Jul 3, 2023 • 6 min read

Greece’s most significant spiritual holiday, Orthodox Easter, takes place in either April or May ©Hector Christiaen/Shutterstock

Greece is famed for its crystalline seas, ancient attractions, and warm hospitality.

Summer is when most travelers choose to explore its countless islands , while spring and fall are the best times of year to marvel at the myriad of archeological sites dotted around the country.

Winter can be cool and occasionally rainy but for those conscious about budget or interested in seeing how the locals live, the vibrant capital of Athens still delivers history, culture, and good times in spades, even when the sunshine starts to fade.

Whether you’re dreaming of the southeast Mediterranean nation’s dreamy beaches , ancient allure, or buzzing city life, these are the best times to visit Greece.

May to October is best for island-hopping

Orthodox Easter, Greece’s most significant spiritual holiday, lands in April or May and unofficially debuts in the island-hopping season. In the final month of spring, the seas only just start to lose their winter chill and are still too cool for swimming, at least by local standards. In May, the average daily high is a warm 77°F and days are normally sunny.

Keep in mind that the deep cobalt waters of the Aegean, in the north and south, take longer to warm up than the shallower, turquoise seas of the Ionian , west of mainland Greece. The further south you sail through the Aegean archipelago, the hotter it gets, at least on land, and so the longer the warm weather season. Islands such as Rhodes and Crete are ideal for a sunny shoulder season getaway in May, September, or October when beaches are empty of schoolkids (with the exception of UK mid-term holidays).

June affords the longest days of sunshine, peaking in the second fortnight. It’s also an opportune time for your first, refreshing dip of the summer. July and August are the busiest months of the year on the islands, so expect high airfares, peak season hotel rates, crowded beach bars, bustling main towns, and packed restaurants in popular destinations like Mykonos , Santorini , and Paros , among others. Southern Europeans, including Greeks retreating to their second homes, gravitate toward the islands at this time of year.

July and August are also the hottest and driest months in Greece, with average temperatures often exceeding 86°F, and there is the potential for stifling heatwaves. Thankfully, the Meltemi, a welcome north wind that makes its appearance mostly between June and September, tempers the heat. Still, if you’re intent on visiting during July and August, be sure to book a good six months or more in advance to secure slightly better airfares and hotel rates.

By September, Greece’s seas have thoroughly warmed through and school holidays are over, meaning that you’ll have more room to yourself at that idyllic beach and a peaceful night’s sleep. Airfares and hotel rates are also more affordable. As a result, it’s now one of the most popular months of travel for those who want to enjoy a more relaxing island or mainland holiday.

By about mid-October, Greece’s seas start to pick up swell, and air temperatures begin to fall, while the majority of hotels stay open until the end of the month. It’s still an excellent time of year to visit, as long as you come prepared, with warmer clothing for cooler evenings.

See the ancient sites in spring or fall

From the Vergina Royal Tombs Museum dating to the times of Alexander the Great in Macedonia to the Minoan-era Palace of Knossos in Crete , ancient marvels and historical monuments liberally dot the landscape, wherever you journey throughout Greece. Stonebuilt temples, palaces, and castles act like a magnet for sunlight, so the best times of the year to plan your history geek-out is March, April, or October. The weather is comfortably cool and the crowds are noticeably thinner. As an added bonus, you can expect to pay less for flights and accommodation .

Layers of clothing, such as short-sleeve shirts and a light fleece jacket, are vital to ward off the chill but also to peel off as you hike between ruins and landmarks. Pack a water-resistant jacket and hiking shoes because showers are a real possibility, while March also brings occasional snowfall in mountainous mainland areas such as Central Greece .

Scratch below the surface of Greece’s archaic attractions and museums by booking a small group or private tour, led by a state-licensed guide. Rather than wander around the sacred ancient temples of Delphi on your own, seek out an on-the-ground expert, many of whom are also qualified archeologists or historians. It’s not just about the specific details they impart but the fascinating anecdotes you would never find in a history book. The best guides are usually booked up in the height of summer, so take advantage of their availability and deep knowledge by scheduling a visit in March, October, or November.

Fall and winter are the best times to experience Athens like a local

Greeks, the majority of whom live in Athens, return to base no later than October to resume their normal routines. But that doesn’t mean the city goes quiet. Quite the contrary.

You’ll still be able to sit outdoors at cafes and restaurants and soak up the insouciant vibes of city life. At the same time, the queues to visit the Acropolis and other ancient sites around town disappear, Monastiraki’s flea markets are quieter, and it’s easier to snag a table at a rooftop restaurant for dinner with views of an illuminated Parthenon .

And November and December, with the exception of the Christmas and New Year period, offer some of the most tempting airfare and hotel deals to be had. Between November 1 and March 30, entrance fees at ancient sites and state-run museums, like the treasure-filled National Archaeological Museum , are significantly reduced, making a December vacation a more appealing option for families on a budget.

Temperatures are still comfortably warm in November, with average highs of around 65°F. In December, the mean temperature drops to about 58.46°F, and average monthly rainfall hovers around 65mm. As winter takes hold, Athenian night owls congregate indoors at bars and clubs in inner-city Gazi, Keramikos, and Metaxourgio , where they listen to alt-rock bands, notable jazz artists on tour, and electronic music.

Best of all, Athens regains its true identity. Whether you’re walking the cobblestoned streets of old town Plaka on a Sunday afternoon, checking out the bookshops in the intellectual Exarhia neighborhood or even scaling the verdant heights of Lycabettus Hill (the city’s best vantage point for views of the capital’s vast urban sprawl) you’ll find yourself among locals going about their day-to-day lives. Most Greeks, particularly younger generations, will take every opportunity to dust off their English skills, so don’t be shy to strike up a conversation and ask for insider tips.

This article was first published April 2021 and updated July 2023

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In The News

Tourists have returned to Athens. June 2nd, 2021.

© Giannis Liakos / InTime News

The New York Times: “The Greek Gamble Seems to Be Paying Off”

While the need for close monitoring of the spread of covid-19 remains crucial, nyt noted optimism overall for the reopening of tourism in greece..

Paulina Björk Kapsalis | July 6th, 2021

Though many have debated whether Greece’s choice to open the country to tourism on May 14th will spark a fourth wave of the coronavirus sooner than what could be avoided, it seems those voices are outnumbered by others who praise the way in which tourism has been reintroduced. In an article in The New York Times on Thursday, Charly Wilder claims: “The Greek gamble seems to be paying off.”

In the article, the return of tourists to the streets of Athens, and the deck of the ships heading to the islands, is interspersed by quotes from locals, explaining how Greece opening up to tourism isn’t about ignoring the risks, but about the lack of other options. In 2019, tourism accounted for over 20% of Greece’s gross domestic product, and in 2020, the industry was in danger of being wiped out.

Up until early May and the official start of the tourist season, Greece remained in lockdown, with a 21:00 curfew and a text message system in place for citizens to state their reasons for venturing outside of their homes. “There may be nowhere in the world that had as drastic a transition from full lockdown to global reopening as did Greece,” Wilder explains. But this course of action is what may have made it possible for tourist-dependent establishments to flourish again: “For them, the reopening is a lifeline.”

© Giannis Lakos / InTime News

Being quick to encourage tourists to return to Greece this year seems to have worked. As an example, yacht chartering is bringing in more than even before the pandemic (currently ranking most popular in the world for superyacht charters ), but all types of travelers seem to be equally tempted. “I talked to one of my friends right before I came, and he’s like, you’re the fourth person I talked to today who’s going to Greece. What’s going on in Greece?” one American tourist bound for a climb on Mount Olympus was quoted saying.

The New York Times visited Athens and the island of Paros in early June, after the reopening of stores and restaurants, but before the removal of the requirement for face masks outdoors. Since then, music has also returned to bars and restaurants, and there is no more curfew.

You can read more about the current situation and how to travel to Greece now here.

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It’s all Greek to us!

When dreaming of a perfect vacation , white sand beaches, a tropical climate, fresh fruits and veggies and a rich culture all come to mind. Is there a place with all three?

We’re talking about Greece, which has been a tourist destination for both culture and relaxation for as long as we can remember. Not only is it the set of classic movies like “Mamma Mia” and “Hercules,” but it also a bucket list destination for island hopping and romantic getaways.

We’ve already decided we want to go , but for those that only have one shot at the trip of their dreams, we wanted to find out when to book.

To find out, we consulted Greek travel experts, Petros Zissimos of boutique travel company Hellenic Holidays, and Matt Barrett of greecetravel.com , who writes guides for the many islands and mainland Greece.

Read on for the best time of year to travel to the Mediterranean paradise, the best season to avoid the crowds and also top picks for where to travel and stay in the country for the best and most unique visit in 2023.

• The best time of year to visit Greece for good weather
• The most popular time of year to visit Greece
• The least crowded time to visit Greece
• Tips and tricks for planning your Greece vacation
• What islands to visit and where to stay in Greece in 2023

Best time of year to visit Greece for good weather

Weather is always hard to predict, no matter where you travel. Greece typically gets 16 inches of rain a year, drizzling in around October and drying up in April. Otherwise, the climate is warm and dry and thus easy to travel in. Zissimos recommended May, June and September as prime months to travel during, and Barrett agreed, adding some helpful context for those more familiar with NYC weather.

“The best time for good weather — not too hot, but warm enough to swim — is May through June and September through October,” Barrett said. “But July and August are beautiful as well, just more crowded and it can get very hot, though not as bad as NYC on a humid day since it is dry and the islands have cooling sea breezes.”

Most popular time to visit Greece

From Barrett’s recommendations above, the most popular times are also those with the best weather and when people typically have time off from school and work, during the American summer months. Although, Barrett warns, “prices don’t start coming down until October for the most popular destinations.”

For other popular times, you could also use holidays to your advantage to see some other cultural experiences you may otherwise miss.

“In February and March there is carnival season, called Apokreas ,” Barrett said. “ Easter is a wonderful time to be in Greece too. Spring is absolutely magical with thousands of wildflowers and migrating birds stopping in the wetlands as they travel between Europe and Africa.”

Least crowded time to visit Greece

While we wish there was a perfect time for amazing weather and no tourists crowding your photos, Greece has turned into a hub for travelers all-year-long.

“Greece is working on being an all-around destination with visits in the winter to areas of Central Greece,” explained Zissimos. “Usually May, June and September [are the least crowded] although that is not the case since 2021, and Greece came out of the pandemic. It has been a top 10 visit and trendy since.”

If you base this solely off of weather, a late-July trip could be less crowded, simply due to the heat, with an average temperature of 90 degrees Fahrenheit most years. Similarly, the cooler month of October gets the most rainfall and could dissuade tourism. Bring an umbrella!

Tips and tricks for planning your Greek vacation

Like most travel, the tip Zissimos shared is simple: plan ahead.

“The best trick and tip is to plan early, as the off the beaten islands are small and as such the hotel, vendors and transportation are small and availability is limited,” he said.

Similarly, since the country is booming in popularity but it is pretty small, Barrett emphasizes the need to do your research and confide in locals or trusted travel agents to make sure your trip is as tailored as you want it to be, before you depart.

“Do some reading and research,” said Barrett. “Just because your neighbor told you to go to Santorini and Mykonos that does not mean those are the only places to visit. I suggest people use a reliable Greek travel agency to help them book ferry tickets, choose hotels, islands and itineraries and who are there to help with any necessary changes due to weather or human error. I also recommend staying in small family owned hotels which are about as close as you can get to living with a Greek family as you can get without being Greek.”

Where to visit in Greece and where to book now:

What the experts say: “If you are looking for that perfect Greek island with a balance of beautiful beaches, low-key nightlife, white Cycladic villages, low-impact tourism and maybe the best food in the Cyclades, then look no further than Sifnos, where I have been coming for over thirty years,” said Barrett. “Just three hours from Athens by high-speed ferry or five hours by normal ferry, Sifnos is easy to get to and you may never want to leave.”

What the island is known for: Stay here for great access to island hopping, as it is close to Milos and Serifos, as well as the more popular Santorini and Mykonos. You can also shop for traditional pottery for a great and unique souvenir and then be sure to bring an appetite, as this island is known for being a foodie’s delight.

Where to stay: For a hotel experience that feels like home, check out the Niriedes Hotel , which has a 9.8/10 rating on Booking.com. The boutique feel and proximity to the beach is a selling point for those that love golden sand and an ocean view. For those going in a group, good news — Vrbo rentals are available on the island.

What the experts say: “Naxos is the kind of place that is attractive not only to those seeking sunlight, bars and bikinis, but also those looking for a little Greek culture and nature to go along with it,” said Barrett. “Naxos is the greenest island in the Cyclades with impressively high mountains and fertile valleys. There are beaches that are among the most beautiful in Greece a few minutes drive from villages where they still wear traditional dress, weave on old looms and live off the fruit of the land.”

What the island is known for: This is one for the nature-lovers and the cultural tourists who want a break from the hustle and bustle of other mainland cities like Athens. This is also where you can take your photo of the white buildings for Instagram, contrasted by the bright blue water of the port town.

Where to stay: The Kavos Boutique Hotel Naxos is a relaxing reprieve with an ocean view, just 2.5 miles away from the city center and capital of the island, Chora. Enjoy a sea or garden view and modern amenities, tucked away from the noise with a 9.7/10 rating. Hotel Grotta is also an excellent choice, with a #1 ranking of 61 on TripAdvisor, ocean view and close proximity to stunning churches, museums and the Old Town for shopping and walking.

What the experts say: “The island of Lesvos is blessed with award-winning beaches, traditional villages, more varieties of birds and wildflowers than anywhere in Europe, pine forests, medieval castles, scenic harbors with cafes and inexpensive seafood restaurants, abundant fish, museums including two of the finest art museums in Greece, hotels of every class and category, and some of the warmest, friendliest people in all of Greece. Lesvos has been a favorite location for artists, writers and romantics. Its natural attractions include a petrified forest, and the unique hot springs, health-inducing spas that are dotted around Lesvos. Many have been in use for thousands of years.”

What the island is known for: Come for the rich history, stay for the ouzo. The island was said to be the birthplace of the ancient poet Sappho, and now is home to universities, museums and a great collection of art and culture. After learning and meandering the streets, head to a local bar for a shot of the black-licorice flavored alcohol and find views of the sea.

Where to stay: For an amazing location is the bustling harbor of the city, stay at the Sea Horse , which provides sea-front views and easy access to the best seafood restaurants around. You could also rent out an entire villa from Villa Molivos Views for a five-star experience that still feels like living in an authentic Greek home.

What the experts say: “Is the Mount Pelion peninsula the most beautiful region in Greece? Some say it is. It certainly has some of the best beaches,” said Barrett. “The mountain is filled with vegetation from olive and pines to apple orchards with some of the best hiking trails in Greece. In the winter Pelion provides some of the best skiing in Greece. Pelion also boasts some of the most beautiful villages in all of Greece. To top it off, they say the best mezedes in Greece come from Volos and Pelion, delicious snacks that go perfectly with the local drink of choice called tsipuro.”

What the peninsula is known for: Like Barrett said, come here year-round for experiences of a lifetime — who can say they skied on a Greek island? This may also be the perfect place for a swim, as the beaches are less crowded and wildlife is abundant.

Where to stay: A sleepy fishing town is great for sleepy local hotels and boutique stays. Check out the Aeolos Hotel & Villas that comes highly recommended by our experts and reviews, with a 9.1/10 rating.

What the experts say: “Crete is the largest and the most important of the Greek Islands. Almost a country in itself, to really get to know Crete you need at least a week, make that a month, or a lifetime,” said Barrett. “A long and rich history and countless ancient and medieval sites, fantastic beaches, high mountains, rich agricultural valleys and some of the best food in Greece make Crete a stand alone island with as much to see as all the other islands combined.”

What the island is known for: Well, really for being one of the most well-known, aside from Mykonos and Santorini. However, unlike the other two, this one has a more old time charm, with ancient cities and more myths and culture at every turn. It is also said to be the birthplace of Zeus, for those that love Greek mythology.

Where to stay: You can go a few routes here, as the larger island has options for everyone. For a luxurious stay, try to get a room at the popular Elounda Beach Hotel & Villas , which has private beach access and five-star amenities. For families or group travel, the smaller Ammos Hotel is actually rated #1 on TripAdvisor and also has private beach access and ocean views.

What the experts say: “I used to think that Athens was the most underrated city in the world. Even during the economic crisis there was a buzz coming from the countless cafes and restaurants, bars and clubs in a city where people seem to spend as much time out of their apartments as possible,” said Barrett. “This has increased as Athens has suddenly become a magnet for young and old people looking for a better way of life, at least for a week or so. Athens used to be a place tourists went to because it was on the way to the islands. Now I talk to people who tell me that Athens was their favorite part of Greece and they want to move there.”

What the city is known for: This is the capital city of Greece and really a can’t miss for many (and not just because it is where the airport is!) Come here for rich culture and UNESCO Heritage Sites like the famous Acropolis, the Parthenon temple and the famous National Archaeological Museum. There is also an abundance of both traditional Greek and global food for those that like a familiar feeling while still being immersed in culture.

Where to stay: Not only did our expert recommend the Herodion Hotel for a great stay, I (the author of this guide) also stayed here and may or may not have had a drink at the rooftop restaurant every night so I could have a perfect view of the Acropolis at night. You could also stay at the Electra Metropolis , which is in the Syntagma area, which is also where the main square of the city center is, full of life, restaurants and shopping.

7. Thessaloniki

What the experts say: This time, I am your expert. After living in the city for a month, I fell in love with the unassuming second-largest city of Greece. It serves as the main port for Greece, which is why you will see ships aplenty in the harbor and exciting markets, fresh fish and produce and a cultural explosion on the beloved boardwalk. There is also a thriving local community, an amazing food scene with both old and new takes on classic dishes, great shopping at local and mainstream shops and more.

What the city is known for: For those that want to feel a city’s heartbeat but perhaps not get right into the maze of Athens, Thessaloniki is known for being the best of both worlds. The famous shopping area of Tsimiski Street is a great place to start, and then wander down the boardwalk until you reach the White Tower for amazing sea-side views.

Where to stay: While my homestay is not available, you can get the same homey feeling at the top-rated The Caravan B&B. It is located in the city center, with walking access to top tourist and cultural spots. For a more luxe upgrade, you can also stay at the Daios Luxury Living , rated 4.5/5 on TripAdvisor for being both family-friendly and in close proximity to top restaurants and attractions.

8. Mykonos and Santorini

What the experts say: “The popular islands of Mykonos and Santorini are well worth going to, especially if you are of partying age. If you are like me, a young 60 something, you may be happier avoiding the crowds and staying clear of those islands in July and August,” Barrett said. “Santorini is as visually spectacular as the Grand Canyon or Niagara Falls. It also has some of the best wine in Greece. Mykonos is known for its nightlife, cosmopolitan atmosphere, crowded beaches, and bars that are as fun in the day as they are at night.”

What the islands are known for: As seen in the photo above, the white buildings and blue ocean and sky have made an imprint on our minds and our hearts. The stunning islands are also known to be crowded, so for the perfect Instagram moment, try waking up very early or staying up very late for less people. Parties on Mykonos are bucket list items for many young people, while Santorini may be better for beach-goers to marvel at the different colored sands and waters of the Mediterranean.

Where to stay: If you opt for Mykonos and want to feel like a VIP, check out the luxe Myconian Ambassador Hotel Relais & Chateaux . It is a five-star property with a pool, spa and beach access that is also close to the airport for easy travels. For a more affordable choice, see Hotel Adonis , with an 8.9/10 rating and a great central location near the heart of Mykonos’ center square.

Those that stay in Santorini can opt for a coveted stay with views of the caldera cliffs, staying at Tholos Resort in the Imerovigli area. Enjoy views of the cliffs and the blue sea from a private balcony, plus amenities like free breakfast and a pool.

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Corfu travel guide

When to go, what to do, and why you’ll love it.

Why you’ll love it

T his article contains links from which we may earn revenue. These links are signposted with an asterisk. More information here .

Over the years, Corfu has been conquered by everyone — the Venetians, Romans, Turks and even the Brits. Everyone has left their mark, including Lawrence Durrell, who swapped drab England in the 1930s for this always-shining jewel in the ocean. Located in the Ionian sea opposite Italy’s heel, Corfu is the closest of the Greek islands and it couldn’t be easier to get there, with three-hour flights from most of the main UK airports. Things get busy in the summer months, so visit out of season and don’t tarnish it with the beach-only brush; there’s plenty of incredible food, culture and history.

Main photo: Corfu Old Town (Getty Images)

The starting point for any visit is Corfu Old Town: a jumble of Byzantine and Venetian-style buildings in amber and rose-painted hues, located halfway along the east coast. More buzzy and dynamic than most Greek towns and featuring French, Russian, Genoese and German influences, it has been designated a Unesco world heritage site. Take a guided walking tour to get your bearings and see its clutch of churches, museums and shops. Not to be missed is the Church of Saint Spyridon, where the air is thick with incense and the relics of this important saint are housed.

Then, to tick off the island’s famous natural beauty, take a bus out of town up to the northeast, dotted with sleepy coves and waterfront tavernas. The more adventurous can go hiking; Corfu’s highest peak, Mount Pantokrator, has some incredible trails, with views stretching across towards the mainland of Greece and Albania . For more wallet-friendly stays, head south to Benitses or make for the west coast, which has the ideal set-up for watersports such as windsurfing or kiteboarding.

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• Best things to do in Corfu • Best beaches in Corfu

Where to stay

Plump for the Old Town if you’re in search of a boutique hotel ; the south is freckled with all-inclusive resorts tilted towards mass tourism. For quiet old-school charm, nowhere beats Kalami in the northeast, where Lawrence Durrell lived and wrote his poetic travelogue, Prospero’s Cell, about the island. The White House, now a tavern, also has comfortable self-catering apartments to rent, with balconies overlooking the sea if you want an inspiring spot to pen your own literary masterpiece. This romantic corner of Corfu is perfect for couples; take a boat out to sea, walk to Agni bay for a swim, and change gear to enjoy the slow pace of life.

For families, the fishing village of Benitses in the south is a great focal point, with several family-friendly resorts in the area. This is where the trusted Banyan Tree group opened their first European resort, the Angsana Corfu, which offers luxury family holidays blending Greek island lifestyle with their famed attention to detail.

For a thoroughly spoiling treat, the former home of the Onassis shipping family is now a luxury, couples-only hotel. Domes Miramare Corfu offers guests use of the Miramaretta yacht, the only service of its kind on the island, plus wave boarding, seabobs and use of a private speedboat for that authentic Greek playboy experience.

• Best hotels in Corfu • Best all-inclusive hotels in Corfu • Best villas in Corfu

Food and drink

One of the many advantages of Corfu’s proximity to Italy is that Italian cuisine has crept onto the island. In addition to great Greek staples such as moussaka, stifado, and hearty Greek salads, order typical Corfiot dishes such as pastitsado, a version of the Venetian spezzatino, which is essentially a rich beef and tomato stew, typically served with pasta. Another Corfiot staple is sofrito, a melt-in-the-mouth braised veal infused with garlic and vinegar.

Fish is also an important part of the diet. Local specialities include savoro, a spicy sauce made with olive oil, vinegar, garlic, rosemary, raisins and bay leaves in which sailors would preserve their fish for long journeys — another Venetian legacy. Not to be missed is tsigareli, a delicious and very local way of serving green vegetables such as cabbage or spinach using lots of herbs and spices including paprika, dill, fennel and cayenne pepper.

Olive oil is an important island product, with some of the best produced by the Dafnis family in Agios Mattheos. Join one of their fascinating tours of their olive groves and production mills; they’ve been making award-winning oil here for three generations, and you can leave with a bottle or two of their peppery The Governor olive oil.

Created 20 years ago, the Corfu Trail is a magical footpath running the length of the island. Covering some 220km, the track snakes from the sleepy coastline into the remote, flora-filled interior and reveals the green paradise of wild birds and animals that inspired Gerald Durrell’s My Family and Other Animals.

Know before you go

Although there are plenty of cash points in built-up areas, it’s always useful to take lots of small-denomination euro notes.

Since the explosion in tourism since the Second World War, local residents are used to British visitors, with many locals in bars and hotel speaking English. Nevertheless, you’ll enjoy an even warmer welcome if you can master half a dozen words in Greek — please, thank you, hello and goodbye should cut it.

When visiting churches or monasteries, try to wear proper shoes and cover up any exposed skin with a scarf or shawl. Ask your hotel to book you taxis, especially if out at night, to be extra-safe.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Corfu but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui and Jet2 Holidays . These are the best tours of Corfu from our trusted partners .

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New York Times Travel Show 2020 and of course Greece!

By avgi – maria atmatzidou.

All the travel professionals have been gathered in the 17th New York Times Travel Show from January 24 – 26 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City .

Greece was the Silver Sponsor with official participations from the National Tourism Organization (EOT), and from the regions of Crete, South and North Aegean, Central Macedonia and Central Greece. At the Grand Opening were present the General Consul in New York, Dr. Konstantinos Koutras, the Deputy General Secretary of the National Tourism Organization, Varvara Avdi and from the region of Central Macedonia the Deputy Regional Governor, Voula Patoulidou.

According to last year’s statistics the American visitors increased their trips to Greece about 10% reaching the number of 1.200.000 travelers.

The New York Times Travel Show  is the largest and longest-running trade and consumer travel show in North America, featuring the Travel Industry Conference, Consumer Seminars, Meet The Experts Pavilion and an interactive Exhibition including more than 750 exhibitors representing 175 countries and 35,000 attendees, promoting travel to all seven continents, positioned within 16 pavilions (including Adventure, Africa, Asia, Australia/South Pacific, Canada, Caribbean, Cruise, Europe, Family, Global, Latin America, L.G.B.T.Q., Mexico, River Cruise, Travel Products, and U.S.A. Pavilions).

Friday, January 24 was dedicated to travel professionals and press and the weekend was open to the public. In the weekend the visitors had the chance to attend in the three cultural stages traditional presentations from the exhibitors National Tourists Boards.

Greece was represented from the traditional dance group of Academy of Hellenic Paideia with Director Demetra Varsami . During the three days of the Travel Show many seminars took place providing information about the latest trends in tourism industry, from Major developments in travel to Cruises, from How to save money to turning your passion for travel to business e.t.c. Really interesting was the L.G.T.B.Q.

Travel Pavilion that gathered 28 tourism brands that they offered trip-planning inspiration, experiences, tours, cruises, travel packages, hotels, luggage, travel insurance, free apps and special pavilion-only offers for the enjoyment and safety of L.G.B.T.Q. travelers and their allies, friends and loved ones. Also for the first time ever the pavilion included its very own stage with discussion panels from the world’s leading L.G.B.T.Q., travel experts.

Η Αυγή Μαρία Ατματζίδου είναι Πρόεδρος του Mykonos Multimedia Festival και Good will Ambassador του European Youth Award. Έχει Diploma in Digital Marketing, Bachelor in Mass Communication  and Media Arts, Master in Interactive Multimedia, Master in Psychoanalysis and Consulting και είναι PhD candidate in Film and Television. Έχει γράψει, διασκευάσει, σκηνοθετήσει και κάνει την παραγωγή σε 12 καλλιτεχνικές παραγωγές και έχει υπάρξει δημοσιογράφος σε τηλεόραση, ραδιόφωνο, έντυπα και ιστοσελίδες. Τα τελευταία χρόνια μένει στη Νέα Υόρκη και αγωνίζεται για την διάδοση του ελληνικού πολιτισμού αλλά και για τα δικαιώματα των γυναικών και των παιδιών.

• DEMETRA VARSAMI
• DEPUTY GENERAL SECRETARY
• DR. KONSTANTINOS KOUTRAS
• L.G.B.T.Q. TRAVELERS
• NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION
• NEW YORK TIMES
• TRAVEL SHOW 2020
• VARVARA AVDI
• VOULA PATOULIDOU

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There's a New Flight to Greece From This U.S. Hub Launching in May — and Fares Start at Just $249

Norse Atlantic Airways will launch a new route from New York's JFK to Greece in May of this year.

Christine Burroni/Travel +Leisure

It just got easier to visit Greece from the United States. Norse Atlantic Airways, a low-cost airline based in Oslo, Norway, announced a new route between New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport (JFK) and Athens International Airport in Greece on Wednesday. The flight will operate five times per week from May 30, 2024 through Oct. 26, 2024, the airline shared with Travel + Leisure. The new flight has a duration of 9 hours and 35 minutes. Currently, the airline operates service between New York and Athens with a stopover in London’s Gatwick airport for a total duration of 18 hours.  “This launch underscores our commitment to meeting the evolving travel needs of our passengers," Norse Atlantic Airways’ CEO and Founder Bjorn Tore Larsen said in a statement shared with T+L. "We believe this route will not only cater to the demand for travel to Greece but will also create opportunities for cultural exchange and business collaborations between these two vibrant destinations,” 

The airline promotes that tickets on the new route start at $249, which T+L spotted throughout September and October. However, one-way fares during the summer range between $528 through $1,039.

Norse points out that the flight can also be utilized as a connection point where travelers can book separate connection flights to the Greek islands such as Mykonos, Santorini, Crete, Naxos, and Milos. 

The flight will operate on a Boeing 787 Dreamliner, which offers two cabin options that include Economy and Norse Premium. Passengers can enhance their ticket by purchasing add-ons such as additional meal services, checked luggage, advance seat assignment, and more.  For travelers interested in visiting Greece, there's no shortage of sights from its capital city to its beautiful beaches. Throughout 2024, several new properties will open in Santorini, which was described as the “most Instagrammable island in Greece” ,  including the 37-suite luxury resort Santo Mine Oia Suites and the new The Villas by Santo Collection .