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a cook's tour of mexico

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Puebla, Where the Cooks Are From

  • Episode aired Feb 12, 2002

Anthony Bourdain's a Cook's Tour (2002)

Puebla, Mexico - According to Tony, the best line cooks in N.Y.C. come from Mexico, so he travels to the Puebla, and enjoys mole sauces, toasted ant eggs, fried worms, and the legendary pulq... Read all Puebla, Mexico - According to Tony, the best line cooks in N.Y.C. come from Mexico, so he travels to the Puebla, and enjoys mole sauces, toasted ant eggs, fried worms, and the legendary pulque (a slightly hallucinogenic drink made from cactus sap). Puebla, Mexico - According to Tony, the best line cooks in N.Y.C. come from Mexico, so he travels to the Puebla, and enjoys mole sauces, toasted ant eggs, fried worms, and the legendary pulque (a slightly hallucinogenic drink made from cactus sap).

  • Matthew Barbato
  • Anthony Bourdain
  • Martin Vallejo

Anthony Bourdain's a Cook's Tour (2002)

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  • February 12, 2002 (United States)
  • Puebla, Mexico
  • Food Network
  • New York Times Television
  • Zero Point Zero Production Inc.
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  • Runtime 22 minutes

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a cook's tour of mexico

Anthony Bourdain A Cook's Tour

Anthony Bourdain A Cook's Tour

The #1 food writer and television presenter in the world, Anthony Bourdain reinvented the food travel genre. In his groundbreaking first series, Bourdain travels around the world indulging his taste for local cuisine and eccentric characters.

Anthony Bourdain's: A Cook's Tour - Season 1

A Taste of Tokyo

S1E1 - A Taste of Tokyo

Dining With Geishas

S1E2 - Dining With Geishas

Cobra Heart-Food That Makes You Manly

S1E3 - Cobra Heart-Food That Makes You Manly

Eating on the Mekong

S1E4 - Eating on the Mekong

Wild Delicacies

S1E5 - Wild Delicacies

Eating on the Edge of Nowhere

S1E6 - Eating on the Edge of Nowhere

Cod Crazy

S1E7 - Cod Crazy

San Sebastian: A Food Lover's Town

S1E8 - San Sebastian: A Food Lover's Town

Childhood Flavors

S1E9 - Childhood Flavors

Stuffed like a Pig

S1E10 - Stuffed like a Pig

A Desert Feast

S1E11 - A Desert Feast

Traditional Tastes

S1E12 - Traditional Tastes

The Cook Who Came in From the Cold

S1E13 - The Cook Who Came in From the Cold

So Much Vodka, So Little Time

S1E14 - So Much Vodka, So Little Time

Tamales and Iguana, Oaxacan Style

S1E15 - Tamales and Iguana, Oaxacan Style

Puebla, Where the Good Cooks Are From

S1E16 - Puebla, Where the Good Cooks Are From

Los Angeles, My Own Heart of Darkness

S1E17 - Los Angeles, My Own Heart of Darkness

The French Laundry Experience

S1E18 - The French Laundry Experience

My Hometown Favorites

S1E19 - My Hometown Favorites

My Life as a Cook

S1E20 - My Life as a Cook

Highland Grub

S1E21 - Highland Grub

A Pleasing Palate

S1E22 - A Pleasing Palate

Anthony bourdain's: a cook's tour - season 2.

Food Tastes Better with Sand Between Your Toes

S2E1 - Food Tastes Better with Sand Between Your Toes

No Beads, No Babes, No Bourbon Street

S2E2 - No Beads, No Babes, No Bourbon Street

A Mystical World

S2E3 - A Mystical World

How to Be a Carioca

S2E4 - How to Be a Carioca

Elements of a Great Bar

S2E5 - Elements of a Great Bar

The Struggle for the Soul of America

S2E6 - The Struggle for the Soul of America

The BBQ Triangle

S2E7 - The BBQ Triangle

Mad Tony: The Food Warrior

S2E8 - Mad Tony: The Food Warrior

Down Under: The Wild West of Cooking

S2E9 - Down Under: The Wild West of Cooking

Singapore: New York in Twenty Years

S2E10 - Singapore: New York in Twenty Years

Lets Get Lost

S2E11 - Lets Get Lost

My Friend Linh

S2E12 - My Friend Linh

Thailand: One Night in Bangkok

S2E13 - Thailand: One Night in Bangkok

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A Cook's Tour

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Anthony Bourdain

Maurizio Trombini

Christopher Collins

Lydia Tenaglia

Matthew Barbato

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A cook's tour of Mexico : authentic recipes from the country's best open-air markets, city fondas, and home kitchens

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A gripping account of Captain Cook’s final voyage

‘the wide wide sea,’ by hampton sides, recounts cook’s search for the northwest passage.

a cook's tour of mexico

I’m grateful to the Santa Fe bookseller who put Hampton Sides’s “Blood and Thunder” into my hands some years ago. With Kit Carson’s death-defying exploits at its center, the book revolutionized my concept of America’s westward expansion. Sides’s latest effort, “ The Wide Wide Sea ,” is a gripping account of Captain James Cook’s final voyage.

Cook is a controversial historical figure, especially in light of increasing consciousness about the evils of colonialism. Yet he continues to evoke curiosity and attention. As recently as last month, Popular Mechanics published an article about the rediscovery of his curated shell collection.

Sides does not skirt the rapacious appetites of the British and other European monarchies. The magic of this book, however, is in the details of the explorer’s life at sea. Sides relies on Cook’s writings as well those of other sailors on the voyage. Based on the selected bibliography he includes, Sides’s research was voluminous.

Cook had made two world voyages by the time the book opens. He was a celebrity, having “risen from virtually nothing.” At sea, he’d bucked the Royal Navy’s tradition of violence and cruelty. He’d figured out how to avoid scurvy and brought home information of incomparable value, had mastered new nautical instruments and served as an expert scientist, anthropologist and navigator. His mapmaking skills were superlative.

After only six months at home, he took off again, in search of the elusive Northwest Passage . His third expedition consisted of 180 people in two wooden ships, the Resolution and the Discovery. They left England in July 1776.

In addition to Cook’s story, other narratives weave through the book. One particularly fascinating account is that of Mai, a native of Raiatea, a volcanic island 130 miles northwest of present-day Tahiti. When Mai was a boy, warriors from Bora Bora invaded Raiatea, murdered his father, seized his family’s land and enslaved much of the population, forcing his family to take refuge in Tahiti. In 1767, a teenage Mai witnessed the English navy’s firepower when Samuel Wallis, a British navigator, arrived in the HMS Dolphin and fought the Tahitians. Vowing to avenge his people against Bora Bora, Mai concluded that English guns were the way to go. When Cook sailed in seven years later on his second Pacific voyage, Mai requested passage, becoming the first Polynesian to set foot on English soil.

Mai’s story reads as metaphor for colonialism. He learned English and was wined and dined as a celebrity. Although horrified by London’s grinding poverty, unthinkable in his homeland, he wore the local dress and adopted the manners of a foppish English gentleman. He met King George, who provided Mai and Cook with a large assortment of farm animals and domesticated birds, to cement the king’s footprint around the globe. No surprise — the animals were hell to care for. Mai had been in search of heavy artillery from King George, but for the voyage was given only an “arsenal of muskets [and] broadswords,” as well as gifts that would have been unimaginable to the Polynesians — cut-glass bows, laced hats, crockery and telescopes. If not the cache Mai hoped for, it does reflect the English royalty’s strategy for winning friends.

It isn’t possible in this short space to describe Sides’s hair-raising accounts of the journey, an itinerary that led from England to present-day South Africa, South America, Australia, New Zealand, Polynesia, Hawaii, north to Alaska and beyond, and back to Hawaii. Just repairing and re-provisioning the ship required herculean efforts. The physical threats included days-long ocean storms, fog so thick it wasn’t possible to see from stern to bow and cold temperatures against which no garment could protect.

By the time Cook reached Polynesia in October 1777, the rat infestation was so great that “the vermin had all but taken over the holds, gangways, and lower decks.” At Moorea, 12 miles from Tahiti, Cook created a “swinging bridge” from ropes to lure the rats on land. A few made it to the beaches, introducing Polynesia to the European black rats, which remain a “scourge” today.

Cook understood that his men were vectors for infection. An ascetic, he occasionally stopped his men from going ashore to prevent the spread of venereal disease. At times he restrained his crew from violence; at other times, his temper was uncontrollable. After a series of petty thefts from the ship by Tongo natives, Cook ordered brutal floggings and had a villager’s ears cut off. In punishment for one Moorea person stealing a goat, Cook had the village and its cropland torched, along with its canoes. Sides suggests that over the course of this final voyage, Cook may have been suffering declining mental faculties.

By August 1778, the two ships were in the Arctic Ocean sailing toward Siberia. Cook was careful, “zagging outward if the pincers of ice began to close in on his vessels.” When he finally concluded there was no Northwest Passage, he decided to salvage his “defeat,” by doing “reconnaissance work in Hawai’i.” A man onboard wrote, “Those who have been amongst ice, in the dread of being enclosed in it, and in so late a season, can be the best judge of the general joy this news gave.”

People tend to know Cook was killed by native people in Hawaii. The events leading up to his death are gruesome and upsetting, including “cannibalism” made more explicable in Sides’s measured account.

This book captures a time when Europeans were finding unfathomable new worlds. Armed with extensive research and terrific writing, Sides re-creates the newness of the experience, the vast differences in and among Indigenous cultures, and natural phenomena that were as terrifying as they were wondrous.

Martha Anne Toll’s prizewinning debut novel, “Three Muses,” was published in 2022. Her second novel, “Duet for One,” is forthcoming in early 2025.

The Wide Wide Sea

Imperial Ambition, First Contact and the Fateful Final Voyage of Captain James Cook

By Hampton Sides

Doubleday. 432 pp. $35

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.

a cook's tour of mexico

Immigration | After 25 years of selling tamales in Chicago,…

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Immigration | After 25 years of selling tamales in Chicago, an undocumented immigrant mother returns to Mexico without her family

a cook's tour of mexico

Claudia Perez’s children could count on one hand the number of times they had seen their father cry.

The day their mother left was one of them.

Perez had worked her whole life for a dream that did not come true: Save enough money to take her family back to Mexico and live together in the town where they were all born.

Instead, on a cold February day, she stepped onto a bus in Brighton Park and said goodbye. The day had come to make the difficult choice between her loved ones in Mexico and her family in Chicago.

“Don’t leave my love. No te vayas viejita ,” her husband yelled as she waved goodbye from inside the bus.

Battling health problems and a ticking clock, Perez, 63, chose to leave the life she’d built for herself and her family over the past 25 years. Though she was a successful street vendor in Little Village, she was in the country without legal permission. And she yearned to return to Mexico to hug her aging siblings, visit her parents’ graves and see the houses she’d built for her family using the money she’d earned selling tamales in Chicago.

Her husband, Seferino Arguelles, tried convincing her to wait so that the two could go back together. “Just a couple more years,” he would tell her, urging them to leave the business ready to be passed down. But Perez was afraid that if she waited any longer, she would never return. Not alive at least.

Claudia Perez waves to her family while on a bus,...

Claudia Perez waves to her family while on a bus, Feb. 19, 2024, as she leaves Chicago for her return to her native Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez says goodbye to her son Uriel as she...

Claudia Perez says goodbye to her son Uriel as she prepares to depart Chicago by bus on Feb. 19, 2024, to return to Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez receives a last goodbye hug from her husband...

Claudia Perez receives a last goodbye hug from her husband Seferino Arguelles as she prepares to board a bus for her return to her native Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez is helped by her daughter Elizeth and son...

Claudia Perez is helped by her daughter Elizeth and son Uriel as she arrives at the bus station in Chicago on Feb. 19, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Uriel Arguelles hugs his mother Claudia Perez as she prepares...

Uriel Arguelles hugs his mother Claudia Perez as she prepares to board a bus in Chicago on Feb. 19, 2024, for her return to Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Never tiring from serving others, Claudia Perez cooks up food...

Never tiring from serving others, Claudia Perez cooks up food for several family members who came to visit her at her Chicago home on Feb. 18, 2024, before she returns to her native Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Several family members arrive at the home of Claudia Perez...

Several family members arrive at the home of Claudia Perez to wish her goodbye, Feb. 18, 2024, as she prepares to leave for Mexico. At right is her daughter Elizeth. (Antonio Perez/ Chicago Tribune)

Family members embrace Claudia Perez, Feb. 18, 2024, as she...

Family members embrace Claudia Perez, Feb. 18, 2024, as she prepares to leave for Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

With the lights turned off, family and friends prepare to...

With the lights turned off, family and friends prepare to surprise Claudia Perez during a going away gathering at a local restaurant on Feb. 14, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Several family members arrive at the home of Claudia Perez...

Several family members arrive at the home of Claudia Perez to wish her farewell on Feb. 18, 2024, before she returns to Mexico. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez wipes away a tear during her going away...

Claudia Perez wipes away a tear during her going away party on Feb. 14, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez is presented with a rose from her brother...

Claudia Perez is presented with a rose from her brother Laurencio Perez, at a local restaurant during a going away gathering of family and friends, on Feb. 14, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez helps heat up tortillas with daughter Elizeth, during...

Claudia Perez helps heat up tortillas with daughter Elizeth, during her going away party with family and friends on Feb. 14, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez sits with her husband Seferino Arguelles during a...

Claudia Perez sits with her husband Seferino Arguelles during a going away party on Feb. 14, 2024. (Antonio Perez/ Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez and one of her employees, Juan Hernandez, pack...

Claudia Perez and one of her employees, Juan Hernandez, pack belongings at her home in Chicago’s Little Village neighborhood on Feb. 10, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez and her daughter Elizeth Arguelles pack her belongings...

Claudia Perez and her daughter Elizeth Arguelles pack her belongings for delivery to Mexico at her home in Chicago’s Little Village neighborhood on Feb. 10, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Uriel Arguelles, left, Claudia Perez’s son, and Juan Hernandez, carry...

Uriel Arguelles, left, Claudia Perez’s son, and Juan Hernandez, carry a box for delivery to Mexico, at Perez’s home on Feb. 10, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez, left, prepares over 1,000 tamales with Petra Ramirez,...

Claudia Perez, left, prepares over 1,000 tamales with Petra Ramirez, one of her two employees, at a rented kitchen space in Chicago’s Little Village neighborhood on Feb. 9, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez, left, prepares to make over 1,000 tamales with...

Claudia Perez, left, prepares to make over 1,000 tamales with Petra Ramirez at rented kitchen space on Feb. 9, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez, left, a beloved tamalera and daughter Elizeth Arguelles,...

Claudia Perez, left, a beloved tamalera and daughter Elizeth Arguelles, recall memories at their home in Chicago’s Little Village neighborhood, Feb. 8, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez receives a goodbye hug and kiss from her...

Claudia Perez receives a goodbye hug and kiss from her son Emanuel as she prepares to go shopping ahead of her return to Mexico on Feb. 8, 2024. (Antonio Perez/ Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez takes a look back at her home in...

Claudia Perez takes a look back at her home in Chicago’s Little Village neighborhood on Feb. 8, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

It’s a dilemma that scores of families living in the U.S. illegally experience quietly as the community ages. Some are sick or unable to work, and many immigrants want to make the reverse migration to see their loved ones and homelands before they die. But in doing so, they may never be able to return to the U.S. and see the relatives they left behind.

Over the last several decades, reverse migration of immigrants in the U.S. without legal permission to Mexico has been a slow but steady trend, according to the Pew Research Center and other immigration researchers. The voluntary departures have, in part, kept the population of people in the U.S. illegally at a stagnant number of about 11 million, nearly the same as in 2017, according to Pew, despite the increased number of new migrants crossing the southern border, immigration experts say.

But with comprehensive immigration reform stalled in Congress, and a nation divided on how to resolve it, the choice to stay or go becomes inevitable for some.

Perez and Arguelles had been together for 30 years. In 2002, she and their children left their lives behind in Mexico to be with him in Chicago. “A whole life together,” he said. “Toda una vida juntos.”

When Perez finally returned to Coacoatzintla, Veracruz in February, she sat in one of the homes she had built for their family. Outside, the surrounding green hills turned dark and quiet as the day ended, the surroundings seemingly a world away from the bustling streets of Chicago.

Inside, the walls were freshly painted in bright coral, and the couch was still wrapped in plastic. The kitchen had more cabinets than the street vendor could ever dream of using. It was a house meant to be shared with family.

But her family, also in the U.S. without legal permission, chose to stay in Chicago. They said they weren’t ready to go back. They may never be. If they did, they wouldn’t be able to return to the life they’ve built in Chicago with their U.S.-born children and their careers.

In their minds, they were already home.

“I don’t know when I’ll see them again,” Perez said.

a cook's tour of mexico

Tamales La Leona

She had named her tamales company La Leona because her husband always said she was strong and fearless, like a lion.

When Perez decided to start selling tamales a few years after arriving in Chicago, she only had about $1,000 saved up to begin the operation. And she didn’t know how to actually make them.

But the factory jobs she and Arguelles had were not enough to support their three children, much less to fufill Perez’s dream of building a home in Mexico.

So she learned to make them, she recalled as she made tamales for the last time in Chicago.

“My husband would tell me I was crazy; that (the business) wouldn’t work out,” Perez said, wrapping the dough in hundreds of corn husks. Still, he made her a wooden cart to sell the tamales.

She’d get up at 2:30 every morning to make the tamales, champurrado and arroz con leche from the small, old kitchen in their apartment. Then she’d be out by 5 a.m. to sell. The pork and green salsa tamales were the customers’ favorites, but she also made green pepper, cheese and red salsa tamales.

Some nights, she didn’t collapse into bed until 11 p.m.

“It was all worth it,” Perez said.

Claudia Perez, left, prepares over 1,000 tamales with Petra Ramirez, one of her two employees at a rented kitchen space in Chicago's Little Village neighborhood on Feb. 9, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Around 2013, business was so good that Perez moved from making tamales in her apartment to renting a space with a commercial kitchen. She also hired employees to operate six carts across the city.

“It was a profitable business. It gave me everything I have and more to help my family in Chicago and in Mexico,” Perez said. “I loved my job.”

But there were obstacles. Though business took off, she struggled to keep operating because selling tamales on the streets of Chicago was not permitted. Police actively fined and arrested vendors until the City Council pushed for a move to relax the rules in 2015.

Perez became a member of the Asociacion de Vendedores Ambulantes, or the Street Vendors Association, a group of vendors that organized in 2010 to urge the city to pass the now active ordinance that allows vendors to get a license more easily and reduced the cost of the fines.

After she and her children were arrested on multiple occasions for selling tamales, Perez testified before the City Council and spearheaded protests advocating for the ordinance.

“I wasn’t scared to get deported because I wasn’t doing anything wrong. Those laws were absurd,” Perez said.

Her voice was essential to make those changes happen because Perez was “outspoken,” said Martin Unzueta, executive director of Chicago Community and Workers’ Rights.

Just last year Unzueta invited her to join the board of the Street Vendors Association to continue advocating for the rights of immigrant street vendors, but that’s when Perez told him that she planned on returning to Mexico.

“I’m happy she was able to go back,” Unzueta said. “Many of the vendors we work with have that same dream, but they can’t do it.” He said most can’t afford to save for retirement.

Despite Perez’s success, her heartstrings tugged her back to Mexico. She refused to buy a house in Chicago. And she did not cook with the stainless steel and copper bottom pots and pans she’d get on her birthdays because she wanted to save them to use in Mexico.

Claudia Perez and Juan Hernandez, an employee, pack her belongings including stuffed animals, books, mementoes, and two new large screen TV's for delivery to Mexico, at her home in Chicago's Little Village neighborhood, Feb. 10, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

She’d send most of the money she made from the business almost weekly to invest in Coacoatzintla, Veracruz, taking a part of the more than $63 billion in remittances sent to Mexico in 2023, with most of the money arriving from the United States, according to Banxico, Mexico’s central bank.

In addition to building her family’s house, Perez built three storefronts on the main road of the small town that she now rents to local business owners. She also built three small apartments for her children and owns 2 acres that she loans to her sister to grow crops.

“She didn’t want anything that would tie her to Chicago,” said her daughter Elizeth Arguelles, 29. “But here we are.”

The days before Perez left, Elizeth’s eyes were red and swollen. She had been crying almost every night. Elizeth had helped her mother sell tamales since she was 9 years old, and the work paid for some of her tuition at Dominican University.

Even though Elizeth is the only one of her siblings with DACA — Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals — and could maybe visit her mother if she gets approved for advanced parole, the future is all unknown.

“‘She’s not dying,’ I’d tell myself,” Elizeth said, though she added it certainly felt that way. “I’ll see her again one day.”

Time to leave

Over the past years, Perez pushed back the trip. She didn’t want to leave her children and grandchildren behind. Elizeth is the middle child and the only woman. The youngest son, Emmanuel Arguelles, 27, has a son Noah, 7 and her oldest son Uriel Arguelles, 30, has a daughter Melanie, 5.

“But it’s time. I’m tired,” Perez said as she packed the last of six 24×24 boxes to ship to Veracruz. The boxes were filled with mementoes that had decorated her apartment in Little Village: centerpieces from family parties, Elizeth’s soccer trophies, drawings from her grandchildren and photos in which her hair was still dark brown. She had stopped dying it when her oldest son told her that her gray hair made her look wise and powerful.

Arguelles agreed to support her decision to leave because of Perez’s deteriorating health. He could feel her pain at night when they’d lay in bed together. She would sometimes cry because her body ached. But despite her pain, Perez refused to stop working.

About a year ago, she fractured one of her legs, which left her bedridden for more than five months. Her diabetes was worsening and she was diagnosed with shingles.

“I was depressed and desperate because I thought I was going to die without seeing my siblings again,” Perez said. She promised her five siblings when she could walk again she would return to their hometown.

With the lights turned off, family and friends prepare to surprise Claudia Perez during a going away gathering at a local restaurant on Feb. 14, 2024. (Antonio Perez/Chicago Tribune)

Her mother died before Perez moved to Chicago but she also never got to see her father again after she left. He died about 10 years ago. Perez wanted to visit their graves to let them know that she hadn’t forgotten them.

“I didn’t want her to leave, but I realized that if she stayed, she wouldn’t rest because she doesn’t know how to do that here,” her son Uriel said. He paused, trying to find the words to describe his mother. “We’ll have to embrace the memories that we have together and find strength in that. I know we’ll take care of each other from afar.”

Her husband and children promised Perez they would manage the tamale business after she left. Perez and her husband agreed to find a way to smoothly close it down or pass ownership to one of their children before her husband joined her in Mexico.

“I did a lot not to let it all go to waste. Hice mucho para dejarlo todo perder ,” Perez said.

Before leaving, Perez made each of her children their favorite dishes. Manjar for Emanuel, buñuelos for Eli, and mole for everyone. She also left thousands of tamales ready to heat up and sell.

“I want to make sure they’re OK without me,” Perez said about the mountains of tamales she left in the large commercial freezers at the warehouse.

Several family members arrive at the home of Claudia Perez to wish her goodbye, Feb. 18, 2024, as she prepares to leave for Mexico. At right is her daughter Elizeth. (Antonio Perez/ Chicago Tribune)

Everyone loves Perez’s food. It’s turned into the family’s way of sharing their love.

“Don’t go, tia! ¡No se vaya tia! Who is going to make this food?” one of her nephews said at her farewell gathering a few days before she departed.

Perez sat around a table with a centerpiece of her favorite red roses, her loved ones surrounding her. Guests walked in carrying bouquets, which she carefully placed on a table with Polaroid photos of the family.

At the end of the night — nieces, nephews, cousins, aunts and uncles, friends who had turned into family — hugged her goodbye, one by one. Each had come to Chicago from Mexico over the years. Most are here without legal permission.

Perez said that part of the reason she did not legalize her status is because neither she nor her husband have family members to sponsor them to start the process, the most common way to “get in line” with U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services.

Without a family member who’s a citizen, an employer to sponsor their green card applications or a credible fear of persecution in Mexico that would qualify them for asylum, there was no viable pathway for Perez to apply.

“Why would I want documents now if I’m old? They should have given them to me 25 years ago,” Perez said about the remote possibility of getting a job permit to work in the United States. “ Ahorita ya para qué quiero papeles si ya estoy vieja. Me habían dado papeles hace 25 años .”

A bittersweet reunion

It took Perez three days to get to Veracruz from Chicago by bus.

On her way to Mexico, her husband would call her cellphone. “Get off the bus at the next stop it makes before reaching the border. I’ll go get you,” Arguelles would tell her. Her husband and children tracked her location through an app as she traveled south.

She was tired and nervous, but her heart beat faster as she approached the bus station in  Xalapa, Veracruz — the city closest to Coacoatzintla — where her older sister, Goya Perez, and her son, whom she calls “El Negrito,” were waiting. She hadn’t seen them in two decades.

As soon as the bus stopped, she got off and rushed toward Goya and hugged her. They were both gray and wrinkled, but their love hadn’t changed.

Samuel Rodriguez Perez embraces his aunt Claudia Perez on her...

Samuel Rodriguez Perez embraces his aunt Claudia Perez on her return to her hometown in Coacoatzintla, Veracruz after 25 years of living in Chicago on Feb. 21, 2024, in Xalapa, Veracruz. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez walks with her family members who received her...

Claudia Perez walks with her family members who received her at the bus station in Xalapa, Veracruz, on Feb. 21, 2024. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Marcos Garcia Perez embraces his aunt Claudia Perez on Feb....

Marcos Garcia Perez embraces his aunt Claudia Perez on Feb. 21, 2024, on her return to Mexico after 25 years of living in Chicago without legal permission. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez hugs her nephew Gamaliel Perez, as her family...

Claudia Perez hugs her nephew Gamaliel Perez, as her family celebrates his arrival after living in Chicago for 25 years.(Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez, with her nephew Marcos Garcia Perez, walk in...

Claudia Perez, with her nephew Marcos Garcia Perez, walk in the streets of Coacuatzintla, Veracruz, on Feb. 21, 2024. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez buys wood-fired tamales to eat in Coacuatzintla, Veracruz...

Claudia Perez buys wood-fired tamales to eat in Coacuatzintla, Veracruz on Feb. 21, 2024. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez's house and business premises were built with the...

Claudia Perez's house and business premises were built with the remittances she sent during the years she worked in Chicago.(Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

With cake and food, Claudia Perez's family celebrates her arrival...

With cake and food, Claudia Perez's family celebrates her arrival to Mexico after having lived in Chicago for 25 years. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez looks through the bedroom window of her new...

Claudia Perez looks through the bedroom window of her new home in Coacoatzintla, Veracruz on Feb. 21, 2024. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez, along with her nephews Gamaliel and Marcos, enter...

Claudia Perez, along with her nephews Gamaliel and Marcos, enter the municipal pantheon in Coacoatzintla, Veracruz to visit the graves of their relatives. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez visits the grave of her mother Rosa Alarcon,...

Claudia Perez visits the grave of her mother Rosa Alarcon, who died on Nov. 15, 1993, in Coacoatzintla, Veracruz. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

Claudia Perez views the grave of her father Cruz Perez,...

Claudia Perez views the grave of her father Cruz Perez, who died on Dec. 27, 2005. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

On the way to their hometown, they laughed as Goya pointed out the new brick homes with large balconies sprinkled among rows of abandoned houses. They’re mostly built with American money by immigrants toiling in U.S. jobs illegally.

When Perez finally arrived at the house she had paid for, her siblings, family, and friends were waiting.

“You are a wise woman who supports and blesses everyone who approaches you. Thank you for your exemplary role. Welcome,” read the message on a cake.

Her brother Goyo Perez, 82, wore a sombrero and walked with a cane. He didn’t leave her side.

“She was like a mother,” Goyo said. “She always takes care of us.”

He had been afraid that he’d die and never see his sister again. It’s not a baseless fear: An estimated 80% of families in their town have loved ones living in the U.S. without authorization. They rely on phone or video calls to celebrate birthdays or to watch funerals.

Most who left, never return. Those who’ve managed to come home, “come back to die,” Goyo said.

Indeed, the same week Perez celebrated her return, she attended the burial of 57-year-old Cupertino Hernandez, one of her nephews. When he died, he had been back in Mexico for only about five months after living in Little Village for more than 25 years, his elderly parents said.

“People don’t realize the cost of the American Dream,” said his mother, Lucia Cordoba Santiago, 78. “A few times it becomes a reality and it costs you a whole life away from those who you love and who love you.”

Amid her mourning, she was happy to see Perez back. It seemed the whole town was.

Claudia Perez cries with emotion to be with her sisters Juana and Gregoria Perez after not having seen them for 25 years since she migrated to Chicago. In Coacoatzintla, Veracruz. Feb. 21, 2024. (Victoria Razo/for the Chicago Tribune)

When Perez ran into people she knew, they would hug tightly. One woman caressed her face as she looked into her eyes as if she was not real: “I never thought I’d see you again.” It was a childhood friend.

Perez smiled and told her the same thing she told everyone: “I’ve been blessed to come back alive and still walking.”

Several weeks after she arrived in Mexico, Perez learned that her father-in-law died unexpectedly in Veracruz. Her husband, Arguelles, was still in Chicago.

After more than two decades apart, he watched the funeral and burial on a video call.

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a cook's tour of mexico

Charli XCX Plots 2024 International ‘BRAT' Tour Dates

Charli XCX announced the international dates for her 2024 Brat tour on Monday (March 25), which will be a mix of live concerts and what she's dubbed "partygirl" events. The run will kick off with a set at Primavera Sound Barcelona on June 1, followed by shows in London, New York, Chicago, Los Angeles and Mexico City before winding down on June 22 in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Just hours after announcing the dates, the singer noted on Instagram that all the shows were already sold out .

At press time Charli had not yet announced the release date for BRAT , her sixth full-length album, though she did recently reveal that it is out this summer, contains 15 songs and is 41:23 long. The follow-up to her 2022 album Crash has been advanced by the uptempo first single, "Von Dutch."

Speaking to Billboard at this year's 2024 Women in Music event, Charli said that BRAT is a club record meant to evoke the illegal London rave scene of the early 2000s where she started performing as a 14 and 15-year-old, produced from a tight collection of sounds to create "this unique minimalism that is very loud and bold."

She also said that the album is "very direct" eschewing "metaphor and flowery lyricism" for language that is closer to the way she talks to her friends in text messages. "This record is all the things I would talk about with my friends, said exactly how I would say them. It's in ways very aggressive and confrontational, but also very conversational and personal," she said. "And not in that boring way where artists are like, ‘This is my most personal record.' To me, it feels like listening to a conversation with a friend.

See the Brat tour announcement and dates below.

BRAT tour dates :

June 1 - Barcelona, Spain @ Primavera Sound Barcelona

June 7 - London, England @ Here at Outernet

June 11 - Queens, NY @ Knockdown Center

June 12 - Chicago, IL @ Radius

June 15 - Los Angeles, CA @ Shrine Expo Hall

June 19 - Mexico City, Mexico @ LooLoo Studio

June 22 - São Paulo, Brazil @ Zig Club

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Charli XCX Plots 2024 International ‘BRAT' Tour Dates

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Tim Cook leaves Singapore after week-long Asia tour

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Tim Cook in Singapore (Source: Apple)

a cook's tour of mexico

Tim Cook began the week in Vietnam , then spent Wednesday in Indonesia , and rounded out the week with two last days in Singapore . While Apple does not release Cook's schedule, it appears that his tour has concluded, and he's posted a last few photos and videos from it.

Cook's last evening in Singapore consisted of his visiting the Apple Marina Bay Sands store. Musician Benjamin Kheng was performing a concert there.

Tonight's performance by artist @benjaminkheng and producer @evanturetime at Apple Marina Bay Sands was unforgettable! The energy was electric, and it was such an incredible moment for customers and the team at a beautiful spot in Singapore! pic.twitter.com/DntSnRhiUI — Tim Cook (@tim_cook) April 18, 2024

The following morning, Cook again breakfasted with users. In this case, it was food entrepreneurs Faz and Amiera.

It was great to experience Faz and Amiera's love of food and get a taste of their entrepreneurial spirit! They showed me how they use MacBook Air, iPad, and iPhone to bring their hot honey and sambal businesses to life. pic.twitter.com/aCwgWELDlX — Tim Cook (@tim_cook) April 19, 2024

Cook then visited the new Apple Developer Center in Singapore. He met with developers, students, and Apple Design Award winners.

From solving puzzles to training knights, Jakob, Tongyu, Chiny, and Yiwei shared demos of their games with me at the new Apple Developer Center in Singapore. I loved hearing about your journeys... as students, teachers, and Apple Design Award Winners! pic.twitter.com/x2T3PW04c7 — Tim Cook (@tim_cook) April 19, 2024

To round out his travelogue, Cook concluded with a message about Singapore being an amazing country. He ended his posts with a shot from what appears to be the Apple Marina Bay Sands store and the staff there.

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IMAGES

  1. A Cook's Tour of Mexico: Authentic Recipes from the Country's Best Open

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  2. A Cook's Tour of Mexico: Authentic Recipes from the Country's Best Open

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  3. 17 Best Mexico City Tours [2021]

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  6. A gastronomic tour of Mexico

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  1. Anthony Bourdain A Cooks Tour: S1E20 My Life As A Cook-NYC

  2. Mick's Cooking Masterclass in Mexico: Making Guacamole

  3. Anthony Bourdain A Cook's Tour S01E19 Hometown Favorites

  4. A Cook's Tour of Norway full version

  5. Day 1 of our 5,000 mile road trip ACROSS MEXICO!

COMMENTS

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    Puebla, Where the Cooks Are From: Directed by Matthew Barbato. With Anthony Bourdain, Eddy Perez, Martin Vallejo. Puebla, Mexico - According to Tony, the best line cooks in N.Y.C. come from Mexico, so he travels to the Puebla, and enjoys mole sauces, toasted ant eggs, fried worms, and the legendary pulque (a slightly hallucinogenic drink made from cactus sap).

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  15. A Cook's Tour: All Episodes

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    — Tim Cook (@tim_cook) April 18, 2024 Cook's visit to Singapore, and Apple's expansion in the area, comes more than 40 years after the company first began manufacturing in the country.

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