contax g2 travel

Contax G2 Film Camera Review by Jen Golay

• Learn to Shoot Film: Tips & Tutorials
• November 5, 2021

Written by  Jen Golay

If you’re a film photographer, chances are you are constantly on the lookout for the perfect camera.

Or maybe you’re just on a quest to shoot as many of the thousands of different film cameras ever made.

Either way, you need to put the Contax G2 on your list!

While the Contax G2 isn’t the elusive perfect film camera, it’s probably in the top 10 of the best rangefinders ever made. And it’s a fast, automatic, less expensive alternative to a Leica.

Find the Contax G2 at KEH Camera or on eBay .

I bought this camera a couple of years ago as a small, lightweight, reliable, easy-to-use, 35mm travel camera.

Unfortunately due to the shutdowns over the last few years, I haven’t been able to use it much as a travel camera yet, but it has lived up to all its other promises, and I can’t wait to have to chance to actually travel with this camera.

Reasons to Love the Contax G2

Let’s take a look at what makes it so great.

The Contax G2 is a 35mm automatic rangefinder camera system with seven different interchangeable lenses along with a dedicated hot shoe flash.

If you want to learn more about what a rangefinder is and how they work, check out this article.

It was manufactured between 1996 and 2005 and is the sequel to the Contax G1 camera.

It’s a compact, lightweight camera system designed to be extremely easy to use and reliably accurate in auto mode, yet with the option of full manual control.

The camera has a solid build that is extremely comfortable to hold and use.

It has a fairly fast autofocus, and the lenses in this system are sharp Zeiss glass. Its auto exposure mode is practically perfect.

The Contax G2 is a rangefinder camera, so that means that what the photographer sees through the viewfinder is NOT what the lens sees; however, the camera has a great parallax correction system.

The viewfinder also automatically zooms to the correct framing of whatever lens is attached to the camera, so the framing in the viewfinder accurately reflects the framing on film.

Related: 5 Best Point and Shoot Film Cameras!

An Overview of the Contax G2

The Contax G2 is the ultimate modern rangefinder.

It can shoot at up to 4 fps, has a lightening quick maximum shutter speed of up to 1/6000 of a second in automatic mode, has a flash sync speed of 1/200 of a second, and has a dynamic active/passive autofocus system.

The camera body takes two CR2 batteries , and the TLA 200 takes an additional two CR2 batteries.

Keep a couple of spare batteries in your bag because this camera is completely electronic and will not function without power.

The lenses for the Contax G2 are extremely high-quality Zeiss lenses that are fast at f/2.0 or f/2.8 with the exception of the 16mm ( find on eBay ) and the 35-70mm ( find on eBay ).

They are best used in auto-focus mode, but they can be focused manually with the dial on the front of the camera body.

The motor for the autofocus is in the body of the camera, and it’s fairly quiet, but it’s important to pay attention to the sound of the autofocus because it will give you a hint as to when the lens has reached focus.

If you hear a short zoom out and back, the lens has not focused. If you hear it quickly zoom out and stop, it has focused.

Focusing the Contax G2

There are three focus modes on the Contax G2 , and these can be selected using the dial that surrounds the back focus button.

SAF – Single Autofocus

In this mode, the camera will autofocus on a subject within the center frame indicator in the viewfinder when the shutter button is pushed halfway down or when the back button focus is pushed, and it will remain locked at that focus point until the shutter is released.

The shutter will not fire unless the lens is focused. This is a great feature to ensure a high rate of shots in focus as well as to save on film wasted to out of focus shots.

CAF – Continuous Autofocus

In this mode, the camera is continually focusing when the shutter button is pushed halfway down on whatever is in the center frame indicator in the viewfinder.

It’s comparable to “sports mode” and is best used on subjects in constant motion.

The shutter will fire when the shutter release button is pushed completely down regardless of whether the desired subject is in focus.

MF – Manual Focus

In this mode, you can manually focus the lens on the Contax G2.

Unlike most lenses, though, there is no focus ring on the lens itself. You will need to use the round dial on the front of the camera to focus.

A focus scale will be displayed in the viewfinder, and a distance indicator will display on the screen at the top left of the camera.

If you’d like to see a distance indicator in meters in the viewfinder, hold down the back button focus continuously while adjusting focus with the focus wheel.

I have found that it takes three fingers to shoot accurately in manual focus. The thumb on the back button, the index finger on the shutter, and the middle finger on the focus wheel.

Autofocus Capabilities

The Contax G2 has an active type autofocus that uses a trigometrical method with infrared rays and a passive type autofocus by means of a difference of the subject image through left and right focusing windows.

The infrared rays cannot measure long distances, so the passive autofocus kicks in. Low contrast subjects at close distances that are hard for the passive autofocus to lock on to will be measured by the active infrared method.

By combining these two autofocus methods, the Contax G2 has a precise and reliable autofocus system that works quickly and accurately.

Of course, no autofocus system is perfect, and you’ll need to be aware of the weak points in the Contax G2 autofocus system and compensate for them.

The autofocus system will only work if the subject is inside the focus frame.

So, use the focus/recompose method to ensure that what you want to be in focus is what the camera has focused on.

If the subject is too small, the autofocus may not know what to lock on to. Adjust your framing so that the subject fills the focus frame.

Subjects with little or no contrast, a repeating pattern, a glossy or extremely bright surface, will be hard for the passive autofocus system to lock on to.

Choose a higher contrast area of the subject, lock focus, and recompose. Or choose another object located at approximately the same distance as the subject on which to focus and then recompose.

If you are good at approximating distances, you can switch to manual focus and set the focus distance yourself.

When shooting in dim light, the passive system won’t be able to find focus.

Instead move to within three meters or less so that the active infrared system can achieve focus.

If shooting at a long distance at night, switch to manual focus and set the lens to focus as infinity.

Subjects with horizontal lines, such as the horizon, may be difficult to focus using autofocus. To compensate for this, hold the camera vertically, lock focus, and then return to the horizontal composition.

Mounting and Removing Lenses

Mounting and removing the lenses on the Contax G2 is a little different than you may be used to.

To mount a lens, line up the red dot on the camera body with the red dot on the lens. Insert the lens and press down gently while turning the lens grip ring clockwise until you hear the lens lock into place.

When this lens grip ring turns, it not only locks the lens in place, but it also zooms the viewfinder to the correct position for the lens’s focal length.

To remove a lens from the G2 body, press and hold the lens release button on the front of the body while turning the lens grip ring counterclockwise.

Using Auto and Manual Exposure Modes

The Contax G2 really shines brightest in auto mode, which is actually aperture priority mode since the aperture on its lens must be set manually.

Its exposures are well metered, and the Zeiss glass renders sharp images with beautiful, saturated colors, but if you want to set your exposures manually, you’ll find an aperture ring on the lens and shutter speeds on the dial at the top of the camera on the right side.

Note that to change the shutter speed from Auto to a specific selected shutter speed, push the small button in the center of the shutter speed dial.

You will need to follow the same procedure when moving from manual shutter speed selection back to Auto mode.

There is an exposure compensation dial at the top of the camera as well just to the left of the shutter speed dial. And the automatic bracketing switch is just below the exposure compensation dial.

Setting Your ISO

At the top left of the camera, you’ll find the ISO setting and the drive mode dial.

The Contax G2 can recognize DX encoded film canisters but will only do so when the ISO setting is set to DX, which is the setting found between ISO 6 and ISO 6400.

To set the ISO manually or to change the ISO setting to DX, press and hold down the ISO button on the top left of the camera until the window next to it show ISO and the current setting and both are blinking.

Release the ISO button. Then turn the focus dial on the front of the camera until the window shows the desired reading.

Setting Your Shooting Mode

The drive mode dial offers five shooting modes: Single shot (S), continuous low (CL), continuous high (CH), self-timer, and double exposure.

The camera can shoot 2 frames per second in CL and up to 4 fps in CH.

The self-timer mode sets a timer for 10 seconds before an exposure is made. While the timer is counting down, an LED on the front of the camera will blink.

Note that in SAF the focus is locked the moment the timer begins to count down; but in CAF, autofocus works continually, and focus is not set until the moment the shutter is released.

Shooting Multiple Exposures with the Contax G2

Double exposures on the Contax G2 are easy to execute by setting the drive mode to double exposure.

Unlike the other drive modes, you’ll know you’re in double exposure mode because the double exposure icon will blink in the LCD window next to the dial.

Make the first exposure. The film will not advance. Reset the drive mode to S and make the second exposure.

After the second exposure is made, the film will advance, and the double exposure mode will be canceled.

It is possible to make the second exposure without changing the drive mode, but further exposures will not be possible.

To make multiple exposures, after the first exposure, set the drive mode to S and then change it back to double exposure before making the second exposure.

After that, a third exposure will be possible.

You can repeat this process as often as you want. Just remember when making double exposures to use exposure compensation to underexpose each exposure to equal a correct exposure in the end.

The amount you underexpose will depend on the number of exposures per frame.

Related: 5 Great 35mm Film Cameras for Beginners

What You’ll Spend on a Contax G2 Kit

The price of the Contax G2 is not insubstantial, and it has increased in recent years due to its uptick in popularity.

You can get a basic system of a body and 45mm lens for around $1500. ( Find it at KEH Camera here .)

Because this camera is such a great system, you’ll often find a body with the three most popular lenses: the 28mm, 45mm, and 90mm for around $2500.

If you want to complete your kit, you can add the 16mm, 21mm, 35mm or the 35-70mm zoom lens along with the TLA 200 hot shoe flash ( find on eBay ).

Another great accessory is the GD-2 Data back ( find on eBay ) which will record exposure data between the frames as well as collective imprinting on the first two frames of the film that were advanced as blank when the film is rewound.

Available Lenses and Accessories

The available lenses as well as the flash and data back:

• 16mm f/8 Hologon ( find on eBay )
• 21mm f/2.8 Biogon ( find at KEH Camera )
• 28mm f/2.8 Biogon ( find at KEH Camera )
• 35mm f/2 Planar ( find at KEH Camera )
• 45mm f/2 Planar ( find at KEH Camera )
• 90mm f/2.8 Sonnar ( find at KEH Camera )
• 35-70 f/3.4 Vario Sonnar ( find on eBay )
• TLA 200 Hot Shoe Flash ( find on eBay )
• GD-2 Data Back ( find on eBay )

The Imperfections of the G2

There are a few imperfections with the Contax G2.

One is that the viewfinder is quite small. This can be rather frustrating at times but becomes less bothersome as you become more experienced with the camera.

Focusing can be a bit tricky. Listen to the lens. Pay attention to the distance scale at the bottom of the viewfinder. And use the back button focus tip below.

The Contax G2 is a completely electronic camera, which means that it must have power to operate, so be sure to always have extra batteries on hand.

It also means that if it breaks, it will be harder and/or more expensive to repair. When Kyocera stopped manufacturing the G2 in 2005, it also stopped servicing and repairing them.

The Contax G2 is best when used in auto mode. This may not really seem like a negative, but for photographers who like to have more control over the exposure and focus of their images, the manual functions on the camera can be irksome.

The LCD screens on the G2 are not backlit, so shooting in dark situations makes it hard to read the frame counter and the ISO indicator.

There is no aperture indicator in the viewfinder.

You can see the shutter speed in the viewfinder, but not the aperture setting, so you’ll need to be aware of your selected aperture, and if you change it while looking through the viewfinder, you won’t know what it is unless you take the camera away from your eye and check the lens.

Important Tips for Using the Contax G2

Remove the Lens Cap Before Shooting!

Always remember that this is a rangefinder camera and that what you see through the viewfinder is NOT what the lens sees.

I confess that there was often one black frame on a roll of film when I began shooting my Contax G2.

Now, I have a routine for shooting with rangefinder cameras that works for me to ensure that the lens cap is always off before I begin shooting.

Be sure that when you’re holding the camera—especially when shooting vertically—that you are not blocking the AF finder, the infrared emitter, or the lens.

Remember that the viewfinder doesn’t show you what the lens sees.

Also be careful not to accidently depress the ISO button and inadvertently change the ISO setting. This could adversely affect your exposure.

Use the back button focus feature.

One of the biggest complaints about the Contax G2 is that it’s sometimes hard to make sure that what you want to be in focus is actually in focus.

Set your focus mode to SAF. Center your subject or what you want to be in focus in the center focus point in the viewfinder. Depress the back button focus and continue to hold it down.

Recompose your image if necessary being careful not to move the camera forward or back (especially when using a wide aperture).

Pay attention to the distance scale at the bottom of the viewfinder. This will help ensure that what you want to be in focus is actually what the camera has focused on. Take the shot.

The back button focus also locks focus in CAF mode once it is pressed and held. For an excellent tutorial on mastering focus on the Contax G2, check out this great piece by Kevin Bjorke .

Get a TLA 100 extension cord to get your TLA 200 off the camera for directional lighting.

This is especially helpful for portraits.

Cool Custom Functions

You can set the camera to rewind the film with the leader out. This is great if you want to shoot a roll of double exposures by exposing the entire roll twice.

You can change the double exposure setting to enable multiple exposures without switching back to single exposure mode in between each.

You can set the focus distance while manually focusing so that the focus distance remains constant.

This prevents changing the focus distance by accidentally shifting the focus wheel. It makes taking images at preset focus distance fast and easy. Think focusing at infinity for fireworks.

Final Thoughts

The Contax G2 often gets caught up in comparisons to traditional rangefinders such as Leica , and to many rangefinder snobs, the G2 is thought to be lesser for all of the things that make it unique: autofocus, motor drive, a proportional viewfinder.

But that doesn’t make one better than the other. They are simply different and meet different needs and shooting styles.

While some may say that it takes a true understanding of photography to use a Leica and that the G2 is just an advanced point and shoot camera, I think there is room in the photography world for both.

Sometimes complete manual control is the best option for the job, and other times, it’s nice to concentrate on experiences other than making exposures. The Contax G2 allows for both options almost completely.

This camera is perfect for the professional and amateur photographer alike. It’s great for portraits, travel photography, street photography, family time, and every experience in between.

Its ease of use and quality build make it a good investment and outweigh its minor shortcomings.

In an ideal world we would all have a Leica AND a Contax G2. It’s the Mary Poppins camera—practically perfect in every way!

Thank you so much, Jen! Jen is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and you can check out  her other articles here , including  How to Shoot Snow on Film  and a  review of the Rolleiflex 2.8F .

You can also check out more of Jen’s work on  Instagram .

If you have any questions about the Contax G2 35mm film camera, leave them below in the comments! And you can pick one up for yourself at KEH Camera or on eBay .

Related Posts:

Jen Golay is a senior portrait and travel film photographer and a regular contributor for Shoot It With Film. Find her other articles here , such as How To Shoot Kodak Gold 200 and Olympus Pen F Half-Frame Film Camera Review .

Blog Comments

alessandro coan

February 7, 2023 at 8:46 am

I read this article with great interest and I agree with many of the considerations contained in it. I own a contax g2 and I’m really crazy about it; the only problem will be the repair when the time comes (hopefully as soon as possible) because Kyocera hasn’t made spare parts available for several years

February 7, 2023 at 3:03 pm

You are so right, Alessandro! It is unfortunate that both parts and knowledgeable repair people are continually growing scarce.

Sam Claydon

July 14, 2023 at 1:41 pm

Hi Jen! Thanks for the comprehensive article! I just wanted to know if you had any suggestions for other rangefinder cameras. I’ve been using an SLR for a while and was thinking of branching out. Mechanical preferred, but any suggestions are welcome!

August 30, 2023 at 2:07 pm

Hi Sam! I’m so glad you found the article helpful! There are so many great rangefinders out there with a range of features and prices, so I am going to give you two well-known rangefinders at each end of the spectrum. You can’t go wrong with any Leica camera. They are beautiful, well-built, and make marvelous images. The Canon QL 17GIII is a very well-known and inexpensive camera. Be sure to let us know what you choose/chose!

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Contax G2 Review – Pros and Cons, Tips and Tricks, Sample Photos

Last Updated

August 29, 2023

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There are few 35mm film cameras as prolific and unique as the Contax G2. It’s also extremely divisive among photographers – some people love the camera while others hate it.

The G2 system has been in our collection for many years – while it’s captured some incredible images, it’s also caused its fair share of headaches. We’re happy to share what we love, what we hate, and some of the most helpful tips we’ve picked up along the way.

If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’re wondering: is the Contax G2 worth it in 2023? Truth be told, the answer will depend on the person and what they’re looking for in a camera. 

Check out our in-depth, hands-on, Contax G2 review to find out if it’s the right choice for you. 👇  

Table of Contents

Contax G2 Background / History

The name Kyocera might not mean much to the average film photographer, but the Contax G2 (and many other film cameras) wouldn’t exist without this massive, Japanese corporation.

Kyocera started in 1959, manufacturing industrial ceramic parts for things like televisions. As the company grew, they expanded to other sectors and acquired a variety of businesses.

In 1983, Kyocera officially entered the film camera game with the acquisition of the Yashica Company, including their licensing agreement with Carl Zeiss (an iconic company responsible for some of the greatest camera lenses ever produced). 

They would go on to manufacture cameras (both film and digital) for over two decades, releasing models under the Yashica, Contax, and Kyocera brand names.

The Contax G-series first debuted in 1994 with the release of the G1, followed by the Contax G2 in 1996. These premium, electronic rangefinders were popular at the time of release and the allure has maintained, decades later.

Kyocera officially shuttered the camera wing of their business in 2005, discontinuing the Contax G2 after nine years in production.

While their time in the business may have been short, Kyocera made a big impact with innovative camera designs like the Contax G2.

Contax G2 Specifications 

Format: 35mm

Film Speeds: 6 – 6400

Size: 139 x 80 x 45mm

Weight: 560g

Battery: 2 x CR2

Lens: Contax G Mount

Shutter Speeds: 16s – 1/6000 + B

For an extremely detailed breakdown of the G2’s specifications, we’d recommend taking a look at the Original User Manual.

Here, we’ll cover the most important and noteworthy features of the Contax G2. For a quicker summary, jump ahead to the Contax G2 Pros & Cons .

Contax G2 Lenses

A lot of the G2’s success comes from the legendary quality of the Carl Zeiss T* lenses produced specifically for the G-series.

Designing an entirely new line of lenses was a unique choice – many rangefinders of this era used the popular Leica M-mount. But the complex, electronic design of the G-series left Kyocera and Zeiss no choice but to start from scratch.

Carl Zeiss produced seven G-mount lenses in total, although the three original models remain the most popular and easiest to find. These were released in 1994 alongside the G1.

The original trio of G-series lenses includes the 45mm f/2, 90mm f/2.8, and 28mm f/2.8.

All three of these lenses are compatible with both the G1 and the G2 – they were also released in black as well as the standard, champagne finish. 

Shortly after the release of the G1 and the original three lenses, a super wide-angle, 16mm f/8 became available. With such an extreme angle of view, the 16mm lens requires an additional viewfinder, which mounts on the camera’s hot shoe. 

When Kyocera announced the updated Contax G2, it was accompanied by the release of two additional lenses – the 21mm f/2.8 and 35mm f/2. The 21mm requires the same additional viewfinder as the 16mm.

The Contax G2 lenses aren’t compatible with early versions of the G1. A modification was made to later versions of the G1 to allow the use of these additional lenses. 

You can easily tell if a G1 has the modification by looking for a green sticker inside the film door – these are also referred to as “green label” versions.

The final G-series lens is definitely the strangest of the bunch. Released in 2000, the 35-70mm f/3.5-5.6 is the first ever zoom lens made for a rangefinder. This is the only one of the Contax G2 lenses that is not compatible with any version of the G1.

Focusing with the Contax G2

Arguably the most unique aspect of the Contax G-series is the focus system. It’s already uncommon for a 35mm rangefinder to offer autofocus, but the G-series takes it a step further with an electronically controlled, futuristic system.

Unlike most 35mm camera lenses, the G-series options have no physical focus rings. Instead, manual focus is set on the camera itself.

And manually focusing on the camera body can be just as awkward as it sounds. On the Contax G2, you rotate a small wheel on the front of the camera to change the manual focus. (See image below)

This is a change from the G1, where the focus wheel is located on top of the camera.

The focal distance is displayed (in meters) on the top LCD screen and inside the viewfinder, which also has an indicator to confirm that you’ve achieved focus. 

But the image you see through the finder doesn’t give a live update of the focus. It’s more similar to a point and shoot camera where everything in the viewfinder is always in focus.

This is probably the feature that causes the most division among photographers who love the Contax G2 or hate it. 

Fans of a traditional rangefinder focus system like you’d find on a Leica M-series camera will probably hate the G2. But photographers who prefer point and shoots and a more automated shooting experience will feel right at home.

The Contax G2 uses near-infrared beams to calculate focus alongside a passive autofocus for long distances. The beams come from the front of the camera, just above the manual focus dial. There are two autofocus modes: single and continuous.

The autofocus system is the most significant difference when comparing the Contax G1vs G2. After using both cameras, the upgraded autofocus on the G2 is definitely noticeable.

When using the G2, the autofocus is quick, responsive, and precise. Each of these attributes is slightly less true with the G1, though it’s by no means unusable. 

And even though the G2’s autofocus works well, it can be a lot more sensitive and finicky than modern cameras. 

Certain shooting situations can really confuse the G2, such as repeating patterns, low contrast subjects, bright/reflective surfaces, and horizontal lines. It’s also almost impossible to use the autofocus in the dark, unless you’re extremely close to your subject. 

If you’re coming from a modern digital camera, it may take some getting used to the single focal point on the G2. There’s a small focus frame in the center of the viewfinder – you place your subject in the frame, lock the focus, then recompose your image. 

Bottom Line: With the Contax G2 camera , it’s preferable to use autofocus, which works very well. The manual focus is extremely nontraditional.  

Contax G2 Viewfinder

Once again, the G2 breaks the mold of traditional rangefinder film cameras when it comes to the viewfinder.

If you’ve never used a rangefinder, the viewfinder usually shows you a wider area than what will actually be captured in your image. There are also “frame lines” in the viewfinder, showing you how much will be captured when using lenses with corresponding focal lengths.

But on the Contax G2, the viewfinder uses an internal, optical zoom that automatically adjusts the viewfinder when you change lenses, so that you always see the entire frame. It’s a cool feature, but once again, this is a much different shooting experience than a traditional rangefinder.

The eyepiece on the G2 sticks out half an inch off the back of the camera, helping keep your nose off the body while looking through the viewfinder. There’s also a diopter adjustment, which is essentially a way to change the focus of the viewfinder itself, to ensure a clear, focused view of your shot.

There is a small display in the bottom of the viewfinder that shows the shutter speed, an exposure indicator, and a focus scale that confirms when you’ve locked focus. This display is illuminated, unlike the ISO display or the exposure counter on top of the counter. These can be difficult to see in the dark.

The viewfinder is relatively small, more on par with high-end point and shoots than other rangefinders or SLRs. While it’s certainly not the worst viewfinder we’ve ever used, it can be a bit annoying at times.

The combination of the size, the optical zoom, and the distance off the back of the camera make it so you really need to be looking straight through the viewfinder at the perfect angle, or the view can get obstructed.

We find that compared to other film cameras, we have to adjust our view pretty frequently when using the Contax G2. Wearing glasses doesn’t help.

Contax G2 Shutter Speeds

Another noteworthy feature on the Contax G2 is the extremely fast max shutter speed of 1/6000. This speed is only available in automatic exposure mode – if you’re setting the shutter speed manually, the maximum is 1/4000.

This is one of the fastest shutter speeds available on any film camera. You can find professional, 35mm SLRs from the early 2000’s that max out at 1/8000, but even that speed is generally the fastest that modern digital cameras offer.

The G2 also has a maximum flash sync speed of 1/200 – this is the maximum shutter speed you can use with a flash. While 1/200 or 1/250 is a common max flash sync, a lot of older film cameras were limited to 1/60.

Contax G2 Flash

Contax released two flashes to accompany the G-series: the TLA-140 and TLA-200. While these two models were designed to match the G-series, any of the Contax TLA flashes should work on the G2.

Both the TLA-140 and TLA-200 are designed to make flash photography as simple as possible. In TTL (through-the-lens) mode, these flashes will use the exposure reading from the camera and automatically adjust the power of the flash to ensure a perfect exposure.

Of the two Contax G2 flash options, the TLA-200 is the more popular choice and the version that we’ve had experience with. The 200 model is short and squatty while the 140 model is tall and skinny.

The TLA-200 is probably our favorite flash – not just for the G2, but for any camera. The compact size perfectly fits the camera and doesn’t add much weight or bulk. 

And most importantly, flash photos look fantastic without any real effort. Just turn it on, select your focal length, and you’re ready to shoot.

Contax G2 Battery

The battery for Contax G2 is two 3V CR2s. These two lithium batteries power all of the camera’s functions and it will not operate in any way without batteries.

There is a low battery warning indicator that shows up on the LCD screen on the top of the camera. The manual suggests replacing the batteries ASAP when this warning shows up, although the camera will operate for a little while before losing power completely.

According to Kyocera’s testing, one pair of 3V CR2 batteries has enough power for about 80 rolls of 24-exposure film.

If you opt to use one of the Contax TLA flashes, they also require two 3V CR2 batteries. 

Tips / Troubleshooting for the Contax G2

You can greatly improve your experience with the Contax G2 and help troubleshoot common issues with just a few easy tips. We’ve found these out through trial and error and from discussing the camera with other owners. 

Here’s what you can do to get the best results from the G2 and hopefully avoid losing your mind in the process.

Make Sure to Remove the Lens Cap

Yes…we’re serious. It may seem incredibly obvious, but there’s one key detail about the G2 that tricks a lot of new owners.

The viewfinders on rangefinder film cameras are completely separate from the lens – you’re essentially looking straight through the camera. 

So when you pick up the G2 and hold it up to your eye with the lens cap on, your view through the finder will look the exact same as when the cap is removed.

Some people end up with the occasional black photo, accidentally taken with the lens cap on. We don’t really have that problem because the exposure indicators should tell you that the scene is too dark. 

That said, there have been countless times that we were worried that the G2 was broken because we couldn’t get a good exposure in bright daylight.

Bottom Line: Get in the habit of making sure your lens cap is removed when shooting the G2.

Don’t Block the Autofocus Beam

While the Contax G2 is incredibly ergonomic, the compact size makes it easy to block the near-infrared beam that the camera uses to autofocus. This is located on the front of the camera, just above the manual focus wheel. (See image below)

We don’t usually encounter this issue when shooting photos in landscape orientation, holding the camera horizontally. Since the pointer finger is on the shutter button, the autofocus beam is nice and clear.

But when changing the camera to shoot photos in portrait orientation, holding the camera vertically, is when we frequently run into this problem. Out of instinct from using other cameras, we usually support the lens with our left hand, and this tends to block the focus beam.

Bottom Line: If you’re having frequent trouble locking focus with the G2, make sure that your fingers aren’t blocking the autofocus beam.

Watch Out for Loose Dials

There are a few dials on the Contax G2 that don’t have as much resistance as the others, meaning that they turn easily…sometimes too easily.

First is the “drive mode” dial on the top left of the camera – the wheel doesn’t have any way to “lock in” like the shutter speed dial does. If the Contax G2 travels in a bag, we find that almost every time, the shooting mode dial will have moved in transit.

This can cause serious confusion if you accidentally put the camera in self-timer mode and can’t figure out why you can’t take a photo. Just as often, the dial lands between two settings, which prevents the shutter from firing.

The other culprit on the G2 is the power button – a small lever located on the top left of the camera. Not only do you run the risk of accidentally taking photos of the inside of your bag, but the G2 also pulls from the battery as long as the power is on.

If you find that you’re getting really poor battery life from the G2, there’s a good chance that a lot of your juice is being wasted powering the camera when it doesn’t need to be.

We’d definitely recommend some type of camera bag or insert that allows the G2 to fit relatively snug. Even with a good storage solution, you’ll probably run into the problem occasionally. 

Bottom Line: The “drive mode” dial and power switch can both be moved easily. Get in the habit of checking both and find a camera bag that fits the G2 well.

Master the Focus Lock Button

You can lock focus on the Contax G2 in two ways: pressing the shutter button halfway down, like you would on other autofocus cameras, or by using the focus lock button on the back of the camera.

The shutter button is very responsive and it feels easy to accidentally press it fully when you’re just trying to lock focus.

It may take some time to get used to, but it’s pretty unanimously agreed that the focus lock button on the G2 is the superior choice. 

Some people may struggle with the “focus and recompose” technique if they’ve never used a camera in this way. But to get the most out of the G2, you’ll need to get comfortable with this style of focusing. After a while, it’ll become second nature.

Bottom Line: The focus lock button on the back of the camera is the optimal way to focus. Get comfortable using it with the focus and recompose technique.

Listen to the Lens

It can be hard to feel confident that you’ve locked focus on the G2, since the focus in the viewfinder doesn’t change. But after a while, you’ll be able to tell if you’ve locked focus just by the sound of the camera.

It’s a very distinct sound that the G2 makes while it’s hunting for focus. When it locks on, the sound is higher pitched than when it fails to find focus. 

Even if the focus indicator weren’t working for some reason, we’d feel pretty confident in the ability to achieve proper focus just from listening.

Bottom Line: On top of checking the focus indicator, you can confirm you’ve achieved focus on the G2 by listening to the sound of the lens.

Use the AE Lock for Precise Metering

When you flip the lever on top of the camera to turn the power on, you can also put the camera in auto exposure lock (marked as “AEL”).

Just as the name implies, this allows you to lock the exposure while using the Contax G2 in aperture-priority mode. Normally, the light meter will continue calculating the exposure as you move the camera and the lighting changes.

This is particularly useful if you’re shooting backlit subjects, other situations that might confuse the camera’s meter, or you want to ensure the settings are the same between a few shots. We sometimes use this feature in the same way we’d use a separate, dedicated light meter.

Once you’ve decided which part of the scene you’d like to meter for, you can point the camera in that direction. We usually get closer than the actual shot we have in mind, to ensure that the viewfinder can only see the portion of the scene we’re trying to meter for.

Then, you slide the lever into the “AEL” position and the camera will memorize whatever settings it has calculated at that moment.

One thing to note is that the exposure is calculated using whichever f-stop you have selected, so if you use the AEL, then change the aperture, the exposure will be incorrect. Make sure to select the appropriate aperture ahead of time.

As mentioned above, the main, power lever can be switched somewhat easily. If you’re ever stumped, wondering why the G2 isn’t changing settings as it should be, make sure you haven’t accidentally locked the exposure.

Bottom Line: The AEL is a useful feature that can help you achieve more precise metering for better exposures.

Contax G2 Pros

Let’s summarize all of the things we love about the Contax G2 camera:

• Incredibly sharp, contrasty images. When the G2 hits, it really hits. The Carl Zeiss lenses produced for the G-series are some of the best lenses ever made.
• Compact, lightweight setup. The G2 with any of the prime lenses is a perfect size and weight. Sturdy, but light enough to carry around all day.
• Ergonomic design. Thoughtful touches throughout the G2 make the camera fit perfectly in your hands.
• Camera is responsive and snappy. It doesn’t lag or feel slow and clunky like some other vintage, electronically controlled film cameras.
• Flash photography is easy and looks great. It couldn’t be easier to use the TLA-200 and it’s just as compact as the rest of the camera.
• Fast maximum shutter speed and flash sync. You’ll have a lot of flexibility with shutter speeds more commonly found on high end digital cameras.
• Premium look and feel. The styling, build quality, and materials are all top notch. The G2 receives many compliments from non-photographers who recognize the aesthetic appeal of the camera.

Contax G2 Cons

While we’re huge fans of the Contax G2, there’s no denying that it has some flaws. For as much admiration as there is around this camera, it also has its fair share of haters.

These are the things that we dislike about the camera and may be some of the reasons that other photographers pass on the Contax G2.

• Viewfinder is small and can be difficult to use. We have to readjust our view with the Contax G2 more than with other cameras. Glasses don’t help.
• Nontraditional manual focus. Even though we’re personally content using autofocus when possible, there are times that a traditional manual focus would be helpful. Big con if you’re seeking out the true rangefinder experience.
• Difficult and expensive to repair. Kyocera stopped servicing G-series cameras when they shuttered their camera business. We know of one place in the US to repair (Nippon Photoclinic, NYC), but it ain’t cheap.
• Autofocus is unique and can be difficult. The focus-recompose technique can feel tedious compared to modern autofocus. The focus area is small and you have to be precise.
• Certain subjects confuse the autofocus. Even when you’re confident locking focus with the G2, the autofocus struggles with some specific subjects – lack of contrast, repeating patterns, bright/reflective surfaces, and horizontal lines. This is where a traditional manual focus would come in handy.
• Hard to use in the dark. Trying to shoot the G2 in the dark is always a hail-mary. The autofocus is basically useless in the dark unless your subject is very close to you. 
• LCD screens are not illuminated. The two displays on top of the camera (ISO/focal length and frame counter) can be difficult to see, especially in darker situations. The ISO screen is notorious for getting LCD bleed, too.
• Delicate and finicky. Many film cameras, especially mechanical options, are beloved because of their rugged durability and simplicity. This is not the G2 – it’s a very complex camera that is somewhat delicate and sensitive. 

Final Verdict – Should You Buy a Contax G2 in 2023?

The Contax G2 is an incredible camera, but there’s no denying that it has a lot of quirks that can really spoil the shooting experience. 

When the G2 is working perfectly, it produces fantastic images and handles like a dream. The trouble is that oftentimes, the camera is far from perfect. It can feel delicate and sensitive, as if it possesses a stubborn mind of its own.

It’s not uncommon for a simple shot on the Contax G2 to take much longer than it should. The autofocus can be touchy and requires precision. The viewfinder can be awkward to use and often needs readjustment.

With a handful of frequent, minor annoyances like these, there’s times where it feels like an uphill battle just to take a photo on the G2.

Luckily, the majority of the time it’s an absolute joy to shoot – it’s usually quick, sharp, and operates smoothly. The size, weight, and ergonomics all feel as good as we could possibly imagine for a compact 35mm rangefinder.

There’s no denying that it’s a love/hate relationship – we just love the images and the feel of the G2 enough to deal with all of the things we hate about it. 

It’s even harder to answer if the Contax G2 is worth it when you consider the current prices. Plus, as these cameras continue to get older, long term reliability becomes a bit more of a gamble. 

If you’re looking for a traditional rangefinder setup or prefer shooting manual focus, you definitely shouldn’t buy a Contax G2. Same goes if you have minimal patience for vintage electronics and prefer a simple, rugged setup.

You probably shouldn’t even buy a Contax G2 if you’re on the fence about it. They’re overhyped, overpriced and there are plenty of great options that cost much less.

But, if reading all of this hasn’t deterred you and you’re still drooling over the titanium finish and perfect proportions? Then you, my friend, should buy a Contax G2. You’ll probably love it (and hate it) as much as we do.

Where to Buy a Contax G2

It’s not too difficult to track down a G2, but they aren’t cheap. We’ve always had good luck buying film cameras on eBay, generally from sellers in Japan. This is where we bought the Contax G2, lenses, and flash.

You’ll occasionally see G2’s for sale on specific used photo marketplaces like KEH, but it’s less common than eBay. Some stores offer warranties on cameras with free shipping and returns, which can offer some people more peace of mind.

Personal sales through sites like Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace depend entirely on the seller you’re dealing with. Plus, you have the least amount of recourse here, in case something is wrong with the camera. Still a perfectly fine option, but just make sure to shop smart.

Contax G2 Manual and Other Resources

Contax G2 Manual on Butkus.org

Nippon Photo Clinic (Contax G2 Repairs)

Contax G Series on Wikipedia

Contax G Series Group on Flickr

Contax G2 Community Photos on Lomography

Contax G2 Photos – Samples from a Variety of Photographers

Our review wouldn’t be complete without plenty of sample photos to show you what the Contax G2 is capable of.

It can be quite helpful to look at examples from a variety of photographers, film stocks, and subjects. Even with the exact same camera, two photographers may create images that look entirely different.

Here are some of our favorite Contax G2 photos.

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The Contax G2, Travel Companion by Ibraar Hussain

Dear Steve, I thought I’d write in again, just to relate some of my experiences with the Contax G2 around Northern Pakistan and the Punjab. I’ve been there a few times over the last five years and have had my trusty Contax G2 with me at all times. I know most people shoot with Digital, and finding an almost full time Film shooter is quite a rarity.

In Pakistan, my Contax was a rarity – people were constantly wishing to view the image on the rear panel, and much to their chagrin they were disappointed. The strange thing is that even in the most remote parts, the most remotest and rustic people expected digital cameras and an LCD screen! I was surprised at first and then realised that it’s been over a decade since digital cameras became popular, and many years since Film has ceased to be in use in places such as Pakistan.

Pakistan, as Flickr will show you, is rife with native photographers, and I’ve yet to see ANY photographer anywhere in Flickr, of Pakistani descent, using Film. In Pakistan and India I think Film IS DEAD, you may find the odd mini-Lab but trying to find a lab of any sort which develops E6 or even sells E6 Film stock is impossible in my experience. In 2007 I had to be driven all around Islamabad and Rawalpindi before I found the Headquarters of Fujifilm Pakistan – the only place I could pick up a few rolls of Fujichrome Sensia 100 – rolls which had been sweltering in the heat for Christ knows how long. in 2009 and 2011 I made sure I was well stocked up BEFORE I left England! 🙂

So I felt a bit privileged in a way, sure, it’s foolish feeling, but it was a feeling which had much of pride in it. I had to rely on the characteristics of the Film stock and my rudimentary ‘experience’ to try and grab the shots I wanted, with a long wait to see my results. I know digital gives a higher resolution and pixel peepers will probably get annoyed at the fact that I don’t care, I don’t think that’s important, I’m more concerned with contrast, colour and latitude, and trying to be more creative and artistic. (note the word ‘trying! 🙂 )

I also use B&W and the Zeiss G lenses give fantastic results, though they are sometimes a bit too contrasty and sharp for nice gradual BW tone!! 🙂 haha! I prefer the look of Film, and the fact that I’m beholden to the Film stock and have the option of choosing what I’d like to load up to fit the occasion. For example, trips to Pakistan always ensure my G2 is loaded up with either Kodak e100vs or Fuji Velvia, so I know what to expect from my Slides. I’ll get heavy contrast, vibrant colour and will have to be careful with exposure. That’s where I reckon experience comes into it, experience with the Camera in use. I tend to use Exposure lock on the G2 very often, and can judge the correct exposure by looking at and locking the shutter speed after noting the difference between shadow and highlight in a scene, and I never have any focus problems, any blurred shots are the result of camera shake (using slow film is a pain at times).

But ultimately, the Film stock gives me the results I want, the tone and graduation, the gentle granularity, the pop of colour and it’s all so pleasing to the eye. The colours also add to the ‘exotic look’ of the places, the dust, the red earthy tones, the dress – everything.

I use both Film and Digital, I currently own a lovely Olympus XZ-1, and am looking with lust at the OM-D (I like Olympus colour) I’ve been using a mix of cameras over the years; from Canon, Nikon and Konica Minolta DSLR’s to various Compacts, 35mm SLR’s and 35mm Compacts, but one thing has remained constant: when I wanted to capture something important and special I always resort to using my G2.

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It’s about as perfect a travel camera as you can get, it’s solid (I’ve knocked it, dropped it many times and it has survived!), well-built and is fairly compact. Battery lasts a good long while – in heat and cold,, focussing is quick and accurate, it has a really good meter, ergonomics are as sound as you can get and the lenses are stellar! With the G2, I find I can lift the camera focus and shoot in a quick movement, and if I wish i’m able to zone/pre focus using the (crappy but effective enough) Manual focus.

I have a couple of manual focus cameras, and a manual focus RF – I’d love to own a Leica and perhaps one day I shall, but to be honest, it’s the AF which gives the G the edge when travelling, as time is usually of the essence.

Firstly, the smallish VF, it’s not bad, things are clear enough, but one always wishes for a larger brighter VF. It’s a bit silly, as Kyocera put a perfect VF in the Contax T2, why couldn’t they replicate the size and brightness in this? Filters, using Polarizers can be a pain, and the thing about mountain environments, a Graduated Filter is a MUST, but square filters are a pain to use on a Rangefinder. And finally, the G2 is so quick with a nice snick and zippy shutter that it’s easy to blow your way through Film! So have got to slow down a bit!

I hope my, as well as others use of Film, and such tools as the Contax G2 encourages people who use or have been brought up on Digital, taken up photography fairly recently, during this last 10 to 12 years and others who long ago abandoned the medium and ‘went digital’, to use this beautiful medium and utilise fantastic Film cameras which are at bargain prices these days; such the G1 and G2 and T series, Contax SLR’s, Olympus OM, Nikon F’s and others including Yashica/Rollei TLR’s, and MF gear (and Olympus Pen Half frame – I have a splendid Pen F which I have bought recently and am loving using it) , and I hope exposure on your superb site encourages photographers to use Film, enjoy and create using the characteristics of this medium along with their usual Gear.

Keep up the excellent site, the reviews are brilliant, as are the offerings and contributions from Site users! Love it!

Mulhon, Kalash girl, Grom Village, Rumbour Valley, Hindu Kush. 45mm Planar T* @ f2, Kodak e100vs. 2009

• Ibraar Hussain

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129 Comments

Beautiful pictures Ibraar Sb, true film feeling, thanks for sharing. B.K. Bangash

so lovely, and the reason why i have one in my hand right now:)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tomkdg/

Still some of the very finest photos ever presented on this site 🙂

Ibraar, i wanted to comment on your amazing photos because, among other things, I’m training to be a critic. The problem is, after a lot of thought going late into the night here in Bangkok and 3 coffees later the only words i can honestly think of to describe my thoughts of your portraits are wow, wow and bloody wow!!!!

Andy, U humble me. Thank you. 🙂

These are just superb images. Film photos seem to breath life, and yours more than most that’s for sure!

Fantastic!!!!

Hi, I really enjoyed your post. I am curious what you are doing for a flash when you travel? Looks like there is some fill flash?

hi Andy, no flash – it’s all natural light.

Thanks- you have very nice light on the subjects separating them from the background and lighting up their eyes. Well done. I have a G2 and its just a fantastic camera. Not perfect of course, but pretty darn nice.

Hi Ibraar, good to see you again!!! I miss not contaxg and contaxg.

Best regards

Guilherme!! Nice to hear from you man! I’m beginning to meet many old friends here!

I used to own a Contax G2 with these same lens. However I was never able to take the superb shots taken by you. Well done. The portrait have a wonderful color to them. I eventually sold my G2 and lens and purchased a Olympus E-PL2 which is a wonderful camera. Thank you for sharing.

found his website! http://www.photographerspro.eu/peterschoen/

Great Article. I personally love the Contax G cameras, though I do prefer the G1 to the G2 because of its overall size. I find for travel the smaller camera is a real advantage. The lenses are the true gems of this camera line and a couple yrs ago the 45mm, 28mm and 90mm were all selling very cheap. I think prices have increased at least 150-200 per lens because of the demand since the digital adapters have come about.

Thanks for sharing, great images!

To me, the best “daily inspiration” so far. Congrats!

Thanks Felipe, and thanks EVERYONE, I would love to reply to each message individually, as truth be told I did not expect such a positive reaction, so am humbled.

Now for some more Film daily inspirations! I hope Steve starts shooting some Film again too, I really enjoyed your G2, Leica and Fuji GF670 reviews, plus others.

I’d really love to see and read some reviews of various Slide films and BW too, plus cameras like the Konica Hexar AF (a cam I thought Sony, having the rights to, would re-release in digital, as I think a body styled after the Hexar AF looks far far better than the new Nex 7)

Plus the Contax T2 and T3, there was (is) a guy called Peter Schorn from Austria – a skiier and mountaineer who was on the G site, he also used a Contax T3 (plus M8 and Sigma DP) and took some great shots – I wonder whether he frequents this site – if so I’d love to se your review and shots from the cams you take high up the Mountains!)

Hello, I remember you from the Contax G2 website. Your pics were amazing then and still are. It made me buy a G2 then which I sold back because it was too noisy when auto focusing. I bought a used M 8.2 instead but kept the Zeiss lenses which I use on my Sony NEX5. Anyhow, good to see you here.

I went to see a Gabor Szilasi exhibit a few years ago and they had reprinted 2X3 feet pictures from his 50 year old negatives and they were still stunning. The great thing with Film is that you have full-frame sensor which has no Chromatic aberrations or Moiré and will not have color shift with winde angle lenses. The output, the negatives, last close to foreever and can be reprinted on new media. Even glass plates can be scanned and reprinted. It is also anti-dust since you have a new sensor at every shot. Ah it is lacking live view and video…

The bug is that good photo scanners are harder to get than they used to be and labs are also harder to find if you want quality development.

The worst with Digital is that I am losing the confidence in my results. I used to pretty much know what I would get and sometimes get wowed by the results as they were better than I expected. But I also took many useless pictures as I never knew if I would get a better angle of asubject as I get closer or farther from it (Sydney Opera House… you just snap it like mad since you never know if you will be back and you never know if what you see is the best you will get or not).

Sometimes I look at 10 years old jpegs and for some reason, they look old and I am not sure they will still be relevant in another 10 years hwereas my 20 year-old negatives are just as crisp as when they were developped.

I wonder where this will all end up, canèt wait to see the new Fuji but apparently some people are disapointed about the AF speed and a few other things. We will see when it ships out but the digital file will have the same limitations: What will be the format in 20 years? Will we be able to read tose files at all? there are no standard (they should all use DNG) so if a company goes belly up will you be able to read the RAW files it produced? Will software companies continue to come out with updates to support everything under the sun or will they stick to a few formats? Negatives are negatives, whatever the film company, format, etc…

Thanks for sharing,

Thanks for the message francis, very true what you say. By the way, have you tried the Konica Hexar AF? it has a larger VF and is quieter than the G2.

Beautiful portraits! Thank you for sharing it with us!

wow, just reading all the comments and the explosion of connections, memories and joy that this series has resulted in reminds me how we are all tied together in our love for photography and wonderful adventures. In this world where so often we sit on trains and don’t even make conversation with those around us, it shows that deep down we all really want to connect and tell our story and hear the stories from others. Websites like these and other forums are a great channel to do this. I am off to Africa tonight for 10 days of shooting, Velvia 50 in my bad with some Ektar 100, so looking forward to it and this series has got me even more excited about the trip (if that was possible). Enjoy shooting everyone and keep telling the stories.

Have a nice trip Stephen, and I, along with everyone else I’m sure would absolutely love to hear your experiences and see your art. Have you tried any Ektachrome e100vs?? It’d work wonders in Africa, though I dare say Ektar is probably a safer bet (latitude etc)

Absolutely some of the best portrait work I have seen on Steve’s site. Thanks so much for sharing. You really make me want to shoot some slide film (I’m a primarily black & white shooter).

thanks Eric, I shoot quite a bit of BW and love it. I might post some to Steve see if he will put em up, next month most likely.

Hey Ibraar, I can’t stop looking at your shot of the snack seller, very special. I am sure there are guys out there that it would have taken a quadra ranger/softbox/beauty dish/reflector/diffuser etc set up to create what you have done with your little set up.

Excellent portraits of a very lovely people. I just spent a few weeks in Pakistan and loved it. The people were so friendly and open. Your photos capture that wonderfully. Great job.

Thanks max, where did you go? and any chance of sharing??

That is some great work – thank you for sharing. It feels so alive and real (as it really is).

Thanks ever so much for the encouraging and positive comments, thank you, I cannot say that enough as I had no idea any of my photo’s would be liked, I mean that. I always want to try something new and to be honest I see myself stagnating a bit and a tad one dimensional. I suppose I’ve been lucky enough to come across such exotic interesting and beautiful people who I befriended built rapport with and managed to photograph.

My aim was to promote the use of Film, and 35mm film especially as these days it seems to be seen as a non entity or something inferior to massive resolving digital camera sensors. But Film has a beauty and look which bypasses any resolutionary (is there such a word?) factors, as Kodak Ektachrome e100vs as someone put it ‘pops’, it has a contrast, colour and feel to it which is ever so pleasing to the eye, same goes for Fuji Velvia and other emulsions with their distinct look and feel.

And the G2 is one of many superb Film cameras which have been bypassed by the digital age and are available cheaply, and will serve the user for years and years still matching the best and beating the best of digital in many ways. I mean why upgrade cameras every year or 6 months when you can get an old reliable model with superb lenses and use the film to create some nice photographs for years and years?

Digital is great, there’s no denying that, but so is Film, and I reckon people serious about photography should live in both worlds and take advantage of each.

One more thing, if you go abroad somewhere, (or live in an exotic place) to Africa, Asia, the far East, India, Kenya, or South America, hell, anywhere where the weather’s fine – chuck in a roll of Kodak e100vs, expose it nicely and it’ll put a smile on your face! 🙂

Just came back to see your photos with this Contax G2 and really, those photos are so inspiring. After watching these i went on BH and order 3rolls of BW 400 tri-x and 2rolls of Ekta 100. Already finished one 36BW, i don’T know what it will looks like since i haven’T shooted film for about 8 years. Not to mention my first time shooting B&W film. I don’T develop film myself yet, but maybe one day. I used my old ordinary nikon F65, with a new 35mm 1.8g that i bought for my D7000. Don’t have a clue what it’s gonna look like. Seeing how not too expensive a contax G2 is, i might get one of these for my next trip, which i’m not sure when it’s going to be 😀 but anyway, thanks for those amazing photos. Just want to tell you that you made me buy film 😀

Hi Jean, man, I’m so pleased you’ve decided to shoot film! The best bet would be to develop the Film yourself – you’ll get MUCH better results than with a lab (for BW that is) http://www.ilfordphoto.com/home.asp they have all the steps to be taken on the site, and it’s CHEAP and EASY to dev and scan negatives.

Wow, that’s a lot of infos. It’ll take me more time to process all of it. Can i use ilford developping products to process all sort of film? Like kodak or fuji, color, b&w? How much should i spend for a starting kit?

Jean-Paul, Yes, you can use any company’s chemicals to develop any company’s black and white film. (EXCEPT for Kodak’s BW400 CN and Ilford’s XP2, which are developed in C-41 color chemicals.) That said, each company gives very detailed instructions for processing their own films in their own chemicals, so that might be easier for someone starting out. There is a very good essay somewhere on this website, giving step by step instructions, including, if I remember correctly, a list of the supplies you need to start. It was about a year ago. Maybe someone could help with the author’s name. Steve? You need the chemicals, one developing tank with reels, a timer, (I’ve used the one on my microwave.) some minor tools like clips to hang the wet film on, and either a changing bag or a room that you can make completely dark. A bathroom or even a closet will work. You can find most of it used on eBay. I’d be very surprised if it totaled as much as $50, probably more like $20, if you use your imagination.

Found it! “Film: How to develop, scan, and print with no darkroom required!” By Max Marinucci

Nice article paris, it’s such an easy process! All you need are; 1 tank, 1 reel, thermometer, 1 gradient measuring cylinder, developer (the ilfotec DDX one is EASY to use) stop, fixer, water supply, Film and IF you want to digitise your photo’s; a Scanner. And Lots of FUN!

You need a good, photography-dedicated thermometer, and a developing tank, but other than that, you can get most of the small things at a hardware, or home-supply store. For instance, regular measuring cups in the 500ml or 1 liter size cost 3 to 5 dollars, while graduated cylinders from a camera store can be $10 to $20 each. (It’s easier to work with 3 for developer-stop-fix, so cheaper is better). Same with hang-up clips and other small items.

I have a mint G1 with full set of lenses. I am now using an X100 but think I need to get the G1 out of its box and use it.

Almost every photographic chemical which as ever been produced commercially includes compounds which are known to be hazardous to human health and/or the environment. With the capabilities of modern cameras, how can anyone with an environmental conscience shoot film any more?

Darrell, EVERYTHING we use in this day and age damages and has caused severe damage to our environment. the manufacture of every single component in a digital camera, the use of plastics of a massive scale; LCD screens, rubber, silicon chips, the constant updates and new models being whizzed through into the market; the manufacture of parts en masse in factories in China and the far east with poorly paid workers and poor environmental control, rather than Japan or Germany or USA or UK with our regulations. The waste and constant throwing away of products and packaging. the factors involved in transportation, basically Capitalism on a MASSIVE scale. Cars, aeroplanes, OIL – where do you want me to stop?

To be honest, having ONE nicely crafted metal camera and keeping it for years, and some Film causes far less environmental damage than mass produced plastic gadgets for the masses – massively disposed of with new ones every few months.

Are you serious? – don’t you think there are a lot of other things in this world, that are a lot more hazardous and needs a lot more attention than using film? And what about the production of digital cameras? Is this production totally free of any bad environmental influence – I doubt it.

“Almost every photographic chemical which as ever been produced commercially includes compounds which are known to be hazardous to human health and/or the environment.

This is simply not true.

Please provide citations demonstrating that the common developer/stop/fix compounds are dangerous. I don’t believe you can.

Very inspiring.

Great job. You’ve taken some beautiful timeless pictures.

I loved reading your article and viewing your wonderful photos… beautiful!

Amy, absolutely fantastic site you have with brilliant brilliant photo’s, I have spent ages perusing and enjoying them! Thanks for the comments too!

Beautiful images, made the real way.

I have just bought a bessa R2 rangefinder film camera to use out of the studio. I’ve had a nagging need for a while now to get away from the monitor and pixels and back to the soulful basics of the art of photography.

For which, your work is truly an inspiration, Thank you.

🙂 thanks man! I was the same, I was shooting digital and then thought “Film, let me give it a go” and from then on I’ve been hooked, there are so many emulsions to try, different film stocks, effects, styles, colours, and it makes life easier I reckon, and more about making the picture rather than gadgetry. Apart from that I do LOVE the feel and use of old quality crafted mechanical cameras. I’m looking to get myself a Rolleiflex TLR

Beautiful images Ibraar, and, as usual, leave digital in the dust by a wide margin. No X100 can match Velvia, Provia, or Sensia for serious photography.

Absolutely wonderful post. Amazing images, perhaps even more so because they are film…thanks for sharing these.

Awesome pics. I’m also using more film (E6) these days than shooting digital. Nikon F4s and Bronica ETRSi. Love the Contax.

Ibraar, wonderful photos. I was in that same area in 1987 and as soon as I saw your first photo it immediately took me back there!! And in 1972 my dad was in an expedition to climb Rakaposhi led by the famous Eric Shipton. I was shooting with an Olympus OM-1 on that Pakistan trip, so it’s funny you should be mentioning the “digital OM” now. 14 years on from that trip I got my Contax G1 and 28, 45 and 90mm lenses. For the next 10 years I was deliriously in love with that camera and its lenses, buying and selling a G2 along the way as well. I still am in love with my G1/Zeiss – the results never cease to inspire me. Now I’m hoping that in the Fuji X-Pro1, my dream of a “Digital Contax G” might be becoming realised! That is, assuming the day comes when I can mount my Contax G lenses on the X-Pro1, and I expect it will. Thanks again for waving the Contax G flag and reminding everyone what an amazing body/lens combination it was…and still is!

Hi Martin, it’s so nice to hear from someone who has experienced the wonders of the Karakorams, I wish I went there again last year but didn’t have time. Have you your OM shots from there ? Would love to see them. The X pro will be no doubt superb, and it does look like a G2! But it’s still digital I suppose, so will lack that certain chutzpah! 😉

Thanks for sharing your wonderful pictures. I also have my feet in both worlds of photography. Film still has the aesthetic edge. I treasure my two G2s and those wonderful Zeiss lenses.

Even after some 40 congratulations, let me add mine: These are truly excellent photographs!

I restarted slide photography with an M7 recently – for very much the same reasons: unparalleled nice grain, deep and bold colors, fantastic contrast. And there’s another element: the emotional aspect of holding photographs of people as a slide in your hands. This is no nice, especially if these are photos of people to whom you have a close relationship and of whom you’d like to keep memories.

So true what you say man, and I can’t but encourage you to use Film as much as possible. The M7 ah! I look forward to seeing your stuff!

Hi Ibraar Absolutely fabulous portraits! I am facing the exact problem you mentioned about lack of film availability in India. I live in Mumbai and shoot a lot of film. Can’t find tri-x anywhere so decided to shoot colour. Bought the last 15 rolls of porta nc 400 from this lab and now can’t find any more. The lab said they would not be ordering any more film. Sad:( But the good news is Kodak have said they will focus on their film business only http://kaushalpar.wordpress.com/2012/02/10/film-lives-great-news-from-kodak/ . Hope film becomes more easily available in India. Anyway I plan to stock up on my next trip out of the country. Film rules!

Hi Kaushal. I can imagine, luckily I live in London so Film isn’t a problem, but if it’s bad in Pakistan i;d imagine it’d be similar in India. I suppose you could always mail order Tri X and dev it yourself. I’m sure loads of places deliver/ship to India.

Anyway man, keep shooting! and thanks again!

Whilst film is readily available in Australia (most supermarkets sell c41 consumer film still) the cost is high. I buy my film over the Internet from the US. Even with postage it is much cheaper . No tax if you buy less than $1000 and no Import duties as we have a free trade agreement with the US. May be that is an option for you. However tax and import duties might be an issue in India which would put the cost up. So far no fogging from X-ray scanning.

Awesome! I have been loving shooting film again myself. It is quite an experience, something that digital, being so instant will never replicate. 😀

Best travel photodoc I’ve seen for a long time on this site!!! Simply stunning photographs! Also thank you for making me want to go back to film photography my self! 🙂

Really excellent pics.

Stunning!Thx.

Fantastic. I used to lurk at contaxg.com as well but only posted a few images from the G1 when there. I often directed people there for inspiration. It was a incredible collection of talent, skill and the resulting photos.

Still got that film in the freezer and the G1 still works…. thanks for brings in the inspiration (to dig out the G1)!

Ibraar, just curious about your background – are you based in Pakistan? My wife’s from Hasan Abdal and I met her just before embarking on the Rakaposhi base camp trek (in 1998). I love the place, especially its craziness!

Hi Don, no man, I’m English, my parents are from Pakistan and I have friends there and I also love trekking and Mountains so i tend to go every couple of years. It is a crazy place, some parts more so than others. Did you manage to trek? I’ve a funny story to tell about my ‘attempt’ at it 🙂 Beautiful place, my friend Tarik owns (well his dad does) the Diran Hotel in Minapin – where most people go for the Rakaposhi base camp trek.

Your Wife’s from Hassan Abdal? wow man! you met her in Pakistan? Have you been to hassan Abdal? I did in 2007, well, drove through it en route to Swat.

Did you or have you ever been back or have a gallery of photos? would love to see and hear your experiences!

Okay, we stayed at a guest house in Minapin in 1998, and I’m thinking there’s only one? I was with a school group we took trekking from the UK. Yes we did the trek up to Rakaposhi base camp (most welcome cup of chai I’ve ever had), and others up around Ishkoman/Yasin. Also took a Gilgit jeep over the top to Chitral (and Kalash).

My wife (to be) was teaching locally – we got married in Wah Cantt in ’99. We went back with the family (ie addition of two small children) in 2005, but to the Eagle’s Nest Hotel in Hunza that time. I have my POC! Used to go to Pakistan once a year but we’re now miles away in NZ.

I’ve got a few images from Pakistan online but they’re not titled and are mixed up with a load more from Nepal (I taught in Kathmandu for two years before we came down under):

http://www.digitalbreakout.com/Himalayan%20Journeys/index.html

I’m strictly digital these days and have carted a 1Ds2 on a trek in Nepal: never again – I love my Panasonic GF1. If we go to Pakistan next year (more weddings in the offing) I’m going to try and budget for something like an XPro1, or whatever 4/3 has to offer.

I own the 45mm and the 90mm lenses for my G1, I really want to get the 21mm… and seeing these photos just makes me want it even more.

Both the Biogons–21 and 28–are wonderful if you can track them down.

yep, both are stunning, but the 21 is at another level entirely I think. I sold my 28 (I bought the 28 first) as the 21 was just so much better and versatile

Wonderful work. The clarity of your shots creates some sense of actually being there.

Just world class images

Ibraar, these are fascinating pictures and one of the best series I have seen from Contax G cameras. It is obvious that you are talented. Do you have more? How about posting some of them in the Rangefinder Forum too?

Thanks so much Bob, I have shot plenty more, some you’ll see on http://www.trismegistus.co.uk and others were on the old contaxg.com site which are now gone. I don’t post in any other forums. I have a flickr account which I update; http://www.flickr.com/people/71817058@N08/ But to be honest, the older stuff on the Contaxg site was so much better than mine, it’s just that most talented photographers abandoned Film in droves and went digital leaving the odd few.

Ibraar, riveting story and amazing images!

Cheers Ib, great to see your work here after enjoying it for many years on the Contax G site! Wonderful images as always, I hope you’ve found a steady venue here for sharing more.

(Must dust my G gear off and pull some film from the freezer. Last roll through it was my last day shooting Kodachrome, back in December ’10.)

Excellent images and it is so nice to see real film again. I really miss it. Ross

Ross, cheers man, well, if you miss it, it’s still around! Grab some and try it! 🙂

incredible photos with an incredible camera.

One of my all-time favourite cameras. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and your wonderful images! That Ektachrome really pops!

Just beautiful images, great work. As someone who shots 90% film I agree with you 100%, nothing like film in this world.

Owned a G2 with the 45mm and 90mm for a while but, even after a tuneup, neither focusing system, auto or manual, worked to my satisfaction. Loved the lenses, great resolution contrast (I only shot Tri-X) but could never get used to the focusing quirks. To each their own, I will stick with what works for me.

On your images, I wish the compositions were a little more varied. Just a little too much centering for my tastes but, again, to each their own. What works for me doesn’t work for everyone. Enjoy the Contax glass, it is superb!!!

Cheers man, I’m not much of a street shooter to be honest, too self conscious I think. And as regards variation, you’re quite right, I reckon I’ve broken into a habit of trying to get some eye contact, and hence most of my stuff consists of people and is fairly one dimensional to some.

I will try something different next time

What you are doing is working fine for you.

I suppose David, true say. regards the G2 though (Richard Owens comment), I’ve never had any focussing problems, I find it easy to use, easy to focus and a pleasure.

I agree with your comment, David. Each of us has to find our own way in this medium. And, as any good photographer will tell you, rules are meant to be broken.

Great work. Inspirational!

Thanks man, superb site and photos you have by the way! Enjoyed it!

Wow! I love taking portraits of people on my travels and I get so jealous when someone nails it like you have. Superb photos! Absolutely superb!

All my film development and scanning is done by “North Coast Photographic Services.” They scan all 35mm negs/slides at 16 megapixels using a super high res Norica Scanner. The results are stunning, you can zoom in forever into your pics and see the real resolution of film. I recommend trying them out, everything can be done via mail: http://www.northcoastphoto.com/

If you can get your hands on a used Nikon Coolscan LS-50 (LS-V) I would highly recommend it. Takes film strips with up to 6 frames and slides one at a time.

Just another options which may be cheaper in the long run, but also requires a little more work and takes time. But while you scan, each picture that appears after scanning is like getting a small christmas present 🙂

Hi guys, thanks, and course I remember you Steve! 🙂 Well, I use an Epson 4990 flatbed with the tranny adaptors. It’s ok, my scans are pretty quick, as I use Epson Scan rather than the (better but slower) Vuescan, and only scan at 2400 dpi then resize and sharpen. Epson scan and the 4990 has a tendency to give nasty magenta hues to some scans and I’m forced to adjust the colour to match the original slide at times, at other times it’s fine.

I’d love to get a better scanner, but to be honest I can’t afford to at this moment, and would love to get one of those Nikons mentioned (or a Minolta, or if I have a lot of cash to spare a Hasselblad)

just love these. 1, 3, 4, 6, 9 and 11 are what (for me) film is all about. Even though these are scanned there is almost no trace of fakeness in them. They just look real, like I could step into the picture and the person’s face would look exactly like that. That is what I love about film and slide film in particular. What a talent! Just superb.

Beautiful. I want one too! :`[

Love the photos. You also did a great job scanning the film and translating your photos to the screen. Can you share your scanning process?

Hi man, I scan with an Epson 4990, using Epsonscan most of the time, or Vuescan at times. I scan (for the web) at 2400 dpi, with sharpening on medium and then load it up into Photoshop CS 4 and resize, sharpen, or if there’s too much magenta I tweak it to make it look like the original slide.

Excellent photos !

It is great to hear from you again Ibraar. I miss your work after the ContaxG site went down. You may remember me: Steven Norquist. I am also a Contax G2 user. The G2 is really an amazing camera, it never fails and the Zeiss lenses are some of the sharpest and most moody ever made. Looking at your pictures reminds me that digital still has a long away to go before it sheds its clinical-scientifically-sharp-video-like-cleanness and begins to capture with a rich tapestry like film. (Imagine if “Gone with the Wind” was shot with one of Lucas’s HD cameras?! eesh) I have recently been using the G2 with 45mm Planar for my model pics with Ilford Pan 50 film. I am really liking the results I am getting. I always shoot digital also during these model sessions but I have yet to get digital pics in B&W that can match real B&W film, even after lots of processing in DxO filmpack or SilverEFX. It is just not the same. It still looks fake. I have my pre-order in for the OMD and I am hoping for the best. One trick: I have found if I put older lenses on a digital camera then it can take away some of the perfect cold digital look and give more richness to the pics. Check out my G2 model pics here: http://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/2385455/viewall

Keep up the G work steve!

Yes indeed, I also love (slide)film. Great job! Must be a pleasure to watch these on a slide projector.

Great pictures! I also love using film ( and digital). It’s unfortunate that you cannot easily get film developed in Pakistan. In Canada where I live you can still get film developed at the local pharmacies and photo stores. I am just crossing my fingers that this will continue for a long time and that the number of film users will not decline any further so that we can continue to enjoy it as an alternative medium to digital photography.

thanks man, I’m actually from the UK, and that’s where I get my film developed (BW I do myself). But I hope people don’t abandon this medium and make the most of it.

Simply superb – both images (i.e. photographer) and in quality (equipment).

Just when you have convinced yourself that modern digital gear has surpassed film, a great set of images, on equipment like Contax/Zeiss … or Leica …. proves there is still some way to go!

Thank you – once again – great images!

Amazing portraits and great colour, well done.

Great work, I never saw better portrait work on this site, thank you for sharing them

more of this travel articles!!very pleasant read

I wish I had written more, but didn’t know Steve would publish it! I’ve a few more lined up so will do. Thanks!

Congrats. We are proud of you. Had written a very informative and interesting post and I love all the photos you had taken. The colours are so vibrant, the result of the photos is excatly what i like and always want. Keep up the great work. Cheers

Amazing pictures, some off the best I’ve seen on this site. I think the Fuji X-pro 1 gets a lot of M9 comparaison but It’s actually much closer to the Contax G2. Remains to be seen if the lenses will be as good as those Zeiss

Your time spent learning your tool as paid off. These photos are wonderful.

the next time you go to pakistan. i’m coming with you.

🙂 you’re welcome man, and I’m sure you’ll love it! If you ever do decide to go for some trekking and photography in the mountains, don’t hesitate to contact my friend Imran, http://www.flickr.com/imranthetrekker or http://www.facebook.com/imran.schah

Thanks again

Wow. Amazing work. I own a G1 and love it, but you get something truly special out of it. Well done.

Excellent images. The G2 was my favorite film camera….liked it more than my Leica M6.

That is the real thing. Lovely.

Lovely portraits man! great work!

at first the pictures are beautiful. i love film and i am wondering how did you scan the film, it’s so sharp and well colored. thanks for sharing your pictures. it will encourage me to do more photography 🙂

Ibraar, these documentary set is excellent, the young lad with the eyes is striking, the tense look of the kid, the old gentlemen, top notch. Thanks for sharing.

Superb photographs and a fabulous camera – long live film!

Yes, but film involves killing animals to get the gelatin used to coat film. For some of us who want to eliminate cruelty to animals, not a good thing.

I think you will find most comes from the animals used for food. This is a good thing, it is using the whole animal, not just the good meat. This means that they did not waste any, this is a good thing, it means the animal was bred and died for a good reason and was not wasted. 😉

so you’re a vegetarian? awesome more meet for and film for us!

Oh brother…..

many plastic and rubber and other parts in digital cameras are derived from animal products. Tyres on cars etc etc ad infinitum.

And all the more reason to be vigilant and do the best we can to try and minimize the way we hurt animals. Ibraar is correct that so many things we wouldn’t even imagine, many kinds of paper, ink, etc. often needlessly (but in the interest of profit) include the use of cheap animal products. Some of us work hard to minimize our ‘carbon footprint,’ and it’s also socially responsible to seek ways of minimize hurting and killing non-human animals. I’m simply suggesting that we be aware and draw our ‘lines in the sand’ according to our social and ethical conscience.

What abot digital products? So many toxic (cancer-cuasing) chemicals are used to make digital sensors in digital cameras or semiconductor chips in computers and electronics. Have you ever seen these prcess before? There are more than 40 Korean workers who suffer from lukemia or cancer from Samsung (semiconductor). I don’t know how these product would ever affect our life in the future. Comparing analogue era, this is totally different game. Peope upgrade their digital camers every few years on average, we consume way more than the past.

Yes, protecting animals are very important. I totally agree to that. But we are too far away from being innocent at this moment. It is not a simple issue.

It’s interesting that whenI, on occasion, someone raises an issue about awareness related to the intended or unintended emiseration or killing of animals, another typically says “but what about —(fill in a diferent cause). I certainly did not anywhere imply that there are no other things to worry about–I simply raised the issue because often we choose to ignore how we hurt, exploit, kill animals for our use. Of course we ought to be concerned about other effects–environmental, human rights, etc.–that our hobbies, actions, work have. Why does your post implicitly judge mine for being inattentive to other human causes?

When animals are involved predictably one gets defensive critical responses such as yours; that, it seems, is a reaction worth examining.

Comments are closed.

STEVEHUFFPHOTO 2018

• Camera Reviews
• Rangefinder Cameras

Contax G2 Camera Review – The Anti-Rangefinder That’s in a Class of Its Own

James tocchio.

• January 19, 2018

The Contax G2 is like no other rangefinder on Earth. In fact, its technological ethos employs certain tricks that are outright heresy to diehard fans of the classic rangefinder; it runs on batteries, its manual focus mode is terrible, and its viewfinder lacks frame lines and a focusing patch. But in spite of these radical departures from the classic formula (or rather, because of them) the Contax G2 is one of the most impressive rangefinders in the world, and one of the best 35mm film cameras ever made.

I never planned to own a Contax G2 . The cost of entry, coupled with a misplaced belief in the internet myth that they’re prone to breaking and utterly unfixable in such an event had me regarding them with a cocked eyebrow and a shrug. But when my pal at the local camera shop dangled one from behind the counter and offered a potent discount, I couldn’t resist. Rather suddenly, I was shooting a G2.

Since then, it’s become the camera I’ve owned for the longest span of time. As other masterful machines come and go, the G2 stays. I can’t seem to part with it, and I use it whenever I want guaranteed results. As with some other cameras we’ve covered in the past , the G2 is almost like cheating. Point it, shoot it, and as long as you understand and employ a basic knowledge of the things that make a photograph decent, you’ve made an excellent shot.

But the G2 isn’t just a good camera that’s capable of making good photos. To stop there would be an undersell. The G2 is much more than that.

A Canon EOS 5D Mark IV is a good camera. Like the Contax, as long as the shooter knows how to make good photos, the Canon 5D will make good photos. But when talking about what elevates a camera from a good camera to a truly special camera, the ability to make a good photograph is almost beside the point. Plenty of cameras can make good photos. Not all of good cameras are worth shooting.

The real reason we shoot classic cameras (and likely the reason you read this site’s content, own seventeen cameras, and love film) isn’t just to make good photos. It’s to experience a fantastic machine while making good photos. And the Contax G2 is very near to the essence of what makes a camera a fantastic machine.

To start, it’s gorgeous. The titanium body was produced in three finishes (champagne, black paint, and black chrome), and in any of the three it cuts a figure. Like all of the best designs, things are kept simple and details are well-managed. The body eschews superfluous flair, adhering to a more business-like identity. There’s nothing here that doesn’t need to be here, and where edges could be beveled or shaved, they have been.

Could it be sharper, more angular? Absolutely, and if it were I’d only love it more. But given the camera’s 1995 release date, we should all be happy it’s not sporting a couple of plastic hood scoops and ground effects. What’s here is, essentially, a streamlined brick.

Build quality is fantastic. Though it may be a bit too heavy for some users, it retains a compact form factor (about the same size and weight as a Leica M) and feels dense and solid. The cool touch of titanium gives the shooter confidence that we’re holding an actual machine, and the fine knurling of its metal dials, deliberate clicks of its controls as they settle into their detents, and the rapid precision of its moving parts only reinforce this belief.

Not just a feast for the eyes and the hands, the noises this camera makes are equally intoxicating. The whirr of its four-frames-per-second automatic film advance, the thwick of its incredibly quiet shutter, and the bzzz of its speedy auto-focus motor are as appealing to the ears as any camera noise has any right to be.

• Contax G2 Sounds

Its ergonomics are deliberate and intuitive. The top plate, at first appearing simple, is loaded with controls. More notably, these controls are arranged in a most intelligent way, with secondary adjusters positioned near or within other adjusters. This burying of secondary controls results in a design that’s deceptively simple, yet immediately accessible for shooters doing more acrobatic photography.

For example, the large exposure compensation dial (which thankfully foregoes any annoying locking system) is found right where it needs to be, and will see heavy use when we’re shooting in the camera’s aperture-priority auto-exposure mode. But hidden under this dial is the camera’s automatic bracketing switch, a useful but far less-often-used control. The AEL is incorporated into the On/Off switch. Focusing controls are relegated to a perfectly positioned button on the back of the camera, a button which naturally rests under the shooter’s thumb and which not only allows focusing, but also toggles focusing method between single, continuous, and manual focus modes. The manual focusing wheel lands under the middle finger of the holding hand, allowing one-handed focus and shutter release.

This one-handed methodology isn’t complete; aperture controls are strictly handled via a classic manual ring around the barrel of G mount lenses. Still, compared to other rangefinders, the G2 is among the most modern in control implementation, making it as fast and easy-to-use as the best DSLRs.

This modernization of the rangefinder formula extends to the camera’s decidedly non-rangefinder-ish viewfinder. In the past, rangefinder viewfinders were extremely limited. Even as technology progressed, the rangefinder viewfinder lagged behind, creating an environment in which a rangefinder fan needed to choose which camera he wanted to use based on the lenses he was likely to shoot. And even when a buyer deliberately chose C amera X because it had the best viewfinder for, say, 50mm lenses, that shooter would be compromising anytime a non-50mm lens was fitted to the machine.

Be honest; frame-lines are dumb. Let’s stop dressing them up with claims that they allow us to compose easier, or that somehow the wasted space is a good thing. Shoot a 90mm lens on a Minolta CLE and tell me the rangefinder viewfinder isn’t fundamentally flawed.

The G2 essentially reinvents the rangefinder viewfinder and brings it into the modern age, or more accurately, it updates the rangefinder viewfinder to a level of capability that SLR shooters have enjoyed for more than half a century. Fit a 28mm lens and the viewfinder immediately changes to show the world as seen through the viewing angle of a 28mm lens. Fit the Vario-Sonnar zoom and we’re able to immediately see the changes in framing as we zoom from 35mm to 70mm, and at every increment between. The viewfinder also automatically compensates for parallax error for close focusing, and features a diopter adjustment.

In addition to this optical wizardry, we’re treated to nearly all the information we could ever ask for. There’s a backlit LCD display in the bottom of the frame that shows the manually- or automatically-selected shutter speed, a light reading in manual mode with suggested adjustment arrows, exposure compensation status, a digital focus indicator when using auto-focus and an analog-style focusing scale when using manual focus, and the whole LCD display flashes to show when a photo’s been shot (useful in noisy situations). The only thing missing is a readout of the selected aperture, the inclusion of which would have made this viewfinder effectively perfect.

In use there’s very little to complain about. With the Contax G2 , things happen instantly. It knows what you want to do, and it does it. Half press the shutter release and it focuses. There’s virtually no hunting or waffling, even in low light (though shooters should expect longer lenses, like the 90mm Sonnar, to take a bit longer than the 45mm or 28mm). It might miss one or two frames out of 36, sure; autofocus technology is imperfect, even in 2018. The G2 is from 1995 and performs like a camera made 20 years later. Not bad.

For the first year of G2 ownership, my daughter was pretty slow. But now that she’s three years old and running faster than Sonic the Hedgehog, the G2 still nails the shot. Even in a beachside photo shoot with heavy backlighting, the G2 picked her out with the same frequency of missteps as experienced with my Sony a7.  Once focus is locked, full-press the shutter release and the shutter fires with eagerness; no lag.

These are marked improvements over the earlier G1 , which had serious auto-focus trouble due to its reliance on a single phase-detection focusing system. The G2 uses this same system, but also incorporates a second, active infrared triangulation system. These two focusing systems work in conjunction to provide a really capable auto-focusing system. Especially impressive when considering the camera’s birth-year.

When we switch to manual focus, things aren’t as pleasant, and this is the only measure by which the G2 is bested by classic rangefinders. Manual focus is controlled via a wheel on the front of the camera. While rotating the wheel to the right or left we’re given a visual indication on the LCD display in the viewfinder that allows us to focus on our subject. When the LCD display shows a centered position, the center of our frame is in focus. A focus distance is also displayed in the top panels LCD display, which creates a kind of digital scale focusing methodology that could be useful for waist-level or street shooting. But this electronic focusing method feels altogether lackluster and pointless, especially when compared to the delicately weighted focus action of classic rangefinder lenses , and especially when weighed against the effectiveness of the G2’s auto-focus system. With AF so good, why use manual?

The camera’s exposure system is exceptional and will not disappoint in even the most challenging light. It uses a through-the-lens, low-center-weighted meter that will be immediately comfortable for users who’ve shot any kind of DSLR or mirrorless camera (or any relatively modern film SLR). Metering off the grey shutter curtain, the camera calculates exposures as fast as 1/6000th of a second (in AE) and as slow as 16 seconds. With this versatility, exposures are always correct. Even mindless shooting in aperture-priority auto-exposure will yield an impressive hit rate. And shooters who understand how to meter with a half-press and recompose, or those who understand how exposure compensation works, should get 36 perfect frames per 36-exposure roll of film.

These exposures happen though a suite of Carl Zeiss T* lenses that are among the best ever made. In fact, the standard 45mm Planar was for a time the world’s highest-rated standard focal length lens in certain publications, and Zeiss fans won’t let anyone forget it. And though the constant repetition of this accolade can get annoying, I can’t argue; in my time with the 45mm, it’s helped me make some of the best photos I’ve ever made . Impeccably sharp with zero distortion, incredible contrast and color rendition, and decent bokeh when shot close and wide open, it really is the most effortless and usable lens I own.

And the extreme quality found in the Planar 45mm extends throughout the entire range of G mount lenses, a range that’s concise and focused. With just seven lenses total (six primes and one zoom), it’s easy (albeit pricey) to own every one of the amazing lenses made for the G2. The intelligent choices in offered focal lengths results in a system that’s essentially perfect for any photographer.

Want to shoot an ultra-wide? You can do that with the 16mm Hologon. Portraits? Get the 90mm Sonnar. Since choice is limited and each lens is a masterful Zeiss creation, there’s no worrying about whether you’re buying the best lens for the job. Pick your focal length, and (if you’ve got the money) you’ve got a world-class lens for a world-class camera.

The conversation surrounding the G2 , when not filled with repetitive misinformation from people who’ve never held one, often centers around pedantic bickering over whether or not it’s an actual rangefinder. I struggle to think of a question with less relevance. Is it a rangefinder? Yes; the camera’s internal workings make it, objectively, a rangefinder. Does it feel like a rangefinder? Not really. And for me, that’s a good thing.

The Contax G2 is what a modern rangefinder should be. Fast, accurate, incredibly capable; it’s the advanced rangefinder Leica should have made, but never did. It pulls all the assets of the rangefinder (sharper lenses, less internal movement, compact size) together with the strengths of the SLR (incredible viewfinder and excellent auto-focus) to create a kind of super-camera; a camera in a class of its own.

If this sounds like your kind of machine, buy one . Just don’t ask to buy mine. It’s not for sale.

Want your own G2?

Buy it on ebay, buy it from our own f stop cameras, buy it at b&h photo, follow casual photophile on facebook and instagram.

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• Rangefinder

James Tocchio is a writer and photographer, and the founder of Casual Photophile. He’s spent years researching, collecting, and shooting classic and collectible cameras. In addition to his work here, he’s also the founder of the online camera shop Fstopcameras.com.

29 comments

Nice review. But as a former owner (2002 – 2016) I like to add a few things: Firstly it really is a nice camera. And it really is and handles as nice as the review states. It also (indeed) oozes quality. When I first bought one (brand new) I was delighted with its look and feel. Everything just felt so good, so solid. The camera really tells you: “hey buddy, if pictures made with me are not any good it is your fault, not mine”. And that is a really good thing.

But start shooting it for a longer time and you notice a couple of quirks. And they get more annoying with time. Quirks such as: Autofocus does not really work well against the light. And since the manual alternative uses the same sensors/method there is no way you can avoid problems. The viewfinder may be SLR like (as the review says) it definitely is not as big and bright as an SLR viewfinder. And this lets the camera down, reduces its appeal for a shooter vs. a collector. The autofocus feedback is not reliable. You cannot rely on a shot when pressing the shutter. Except when you use the pre-focus button. Finally: after prolonged shooting the end result of the above quirks is that your confidence in the camera is eroded. The camera is not an extension of your hands (like my OM-1 is, in example). The camera gets in the way.

I sold it when the viewfinder window frame was lost during a shooting. And as the reviewer says: if the camera gets one problem, it is irrepairable.

Buy this camera if you like beautiful cameras. Do not buy it if you are a shooter. Is my advice…

I just wanted to mention that you can still order replacement eyefinder frames from Nippon Photoclinic (I did… twice).

Agreed – I have owned and sold the G1 and G2 series about 5 times as I love them and hate them at the same time so I keep selling and then buying them again. The lenses are superb and the camera is a delight to use in almost every way – a G3 seemingly would have been the perfect camera.

However, as good as the AF is, it does miss and never inspired me with confidence. I always focus and recompose and using the back AF button works really well but you always miss a few shots and not having a visual indication of nailing the focus feels a little unnerving especially if you’re travelling and needing to get the shot.

The viewfinder is very clever but it is a bit like looking down a very long tunnel after a while and in some situations it can be difficult to see especially in bright light.

In the end I went back to my Hexar RF which gives me all the good bits of the Contax G2 (and many of the parts look the same on both cameras) but allows me to focus manually and nail it every time.

I keep a G1 on the shelf just to stop me getting the urge to buy this system again 🙂

All that and only 5 sample images? :\ Seems this reviewer might like the camera more than shooting it….

For cameras with interchangeable lenses, we tend to focus more on the camera body and its feel and functions. In the article we linked through to our review of the lenses for this camera, where there are plenty of sample shots. Here’s a link to the 45mm Planar review – https://casualphotophile.com/2017/08/13/carl-zeiss-45mm-f2-planar-in-contax-g-mount-review-an-almost-perfect-legacy-lens/

People keep saying the G2 isn’t fixable but Nippon Photoclinic in NYC still fixes them. Mine was acting up and I sent it to them, they replaced some control board and it works great now.

Totally with you on this. I called the idea that they can’t be fixed an “internet myth” in the second paragraph of this review, hoping to dispel it a little bit. In the lead up to writing this piece, I contacted the two repair shops I use and they both said “no problem” when I asked if they would work on the G2. It’s a myth, people. Everything can be fixed.

I saw one on the flea market. It was Champagne, body only. It was sitting among 20 other cameras and yet was eye-catching. G2 was for sale for “mere” 150$. Way beyond my budget. Another time I saw something like that was coincidentally Contax I, for 1000$. And I’m not even a fan of German cameras, in spite of owning Contax II.

I owned one and sold it. The lenses really are magic and combined with the meter, perfect images result MOST of the time. Flash photography doesn’t get much easier than a g2 with a tla200

That being said, I never trusted the autofocus. Shots I was certain I had the focus point on what I wanted sharp turned out blurry because the camera defaulted to infinity. Manual focus seemed like an afterthought Contax put on the camera to appeal to more traditional photogs: not useable in practical terms. The zooming viewfinder sans framelines gets rid of any true rangefinder advantages and provides an awkward pseudo-slr experience. The bulky Eyepiece dug into my side when carried on a strap cross-body which is how I prefer to carry a camera.

A technical marvel with world-class optics, yes. A camera to replace my daily shooters, no.

Just my opinion. I know and appreciate many people consider this the perfect camera which is why I sold mine to someone does.

‘Fit a 28mm lens and the viewfinder immediately changes to show the world as seen through the viewing angle of a 28mm lens. Fit the Vario-Sonnar zoom and we’re able to immediately see the changes in framing as we zoom from 35mm to 70mm, and at every increment between.’

I never understood why no other rangefinder could do this, or at least let you ‘zoom’ the viewfinder in set increments to match whatever lens you have attached. Even point and shoots like the Olympus Mju Zooms do this over a massive zoom range. I can’t imagine the basic technology (a few movable lens elements, albeit very small) is particularly complex, although I admit the electronics must complicate things exponentially.

The thing I didn’t like about the G1 and G2 is that you have to trust the camera that the subject is in focus. It’s the worst not best of both worlds of SLR viewfinders and ‘real’ rf viewfinders. With SLRs, you can get a feel if the AF worked/is correct because the entire viewfinder will show focus on it’s matte screen. With ‘real’ rfs, you will know if focus is correct because the rf patch will show it. The G1/G2 removes the rf patch, and removes the SLR type focus screen. So you only know if you nailed focus when you get your film back. In that way it behaves like a giant P&S camera.

By the way, I found the manual focus override very useful for zone focusing. That way you can nail your shots w/o having to get the af pointer on the right spot. And the lenses? Awesome.

Really fun and nice review – along with your “best” images post. 🙂 Feels good…even better on a Friday.

Hello, nice review done on the camera! I had one of these for almost three years (2012-2015) and absolutely adored it. Sadly it got stolen in Vienna, now I just own a G1 as an alternative. The lens are true gems, but the bodies are quite tricky. My first G1 body is very unreliable with autofocus, only 60-70% of the shots I had are accurate, however my G2 and second G1 have less of this issue, only missing ~5% of the shots. I guess the quality control of Kyocera is not the best during its time, and maybe that’s one of the reasons causing its downfall. The G2 is really a remarkable machine, every shot taken with it is enjoyable and satisfying. Hold on to one while it’s still working!

I really loved my G2 Millennium kit when I had it for about a year or so. I took the camera through Vietnam and the 28 and 45 in particular helped me shoot some of my favourite photos. The autofocus would sometimes fail to lock in bright light, but this only happened rarely.

The full kit with 45 28, 90 flash and body in black cost me more than £1800, and I was scared that the body would die on me and my investment would turn into a brick overnight. That’s one clear benefit of the Leica M over the G series, repairability.

Frustrating cameras, but the image quality is as good or better than my M2 with a Summicron. For this reason, there will always be a cult following for the G1/G2. 90mm Zeiss is as sharp as any film lens I have ever seen. Rivals the best Kern-Paillard, Leica, Taylor Hobson and Schneider glass for a small fraction of the price.

Thank you for a good review. I agree with the first reply. This is a beautiful camera and lens combination….. but it is not a daily shooter. Many photos don’t turn out for multiple reasons that I have yet to define. I will enjoy it for a long time but I will be slowing down and giving the camera time to set its self before each photo.

James, I love my Contax Aria it never fails to nail exposure, and I bought it because it has the features of the G2, but is manual focus – which I prefer. Have you tried the GA-1 adaptor? It allows the use of Contax/Yashica mount lenses on the Contax G1 or G2. Focus distance is referenced from the G1’s focus system and manually translated to the SLR lens.

The GA1 is simply a mount adapter, with no connection to the G2 electronics, nor to the focus mechanism. You must expose manually, with external meter You cannot focus with the VF. You must measure your subject distance, then set this in the camera via the focus dial. The VF will not show you the lens field of view. However, this does allow you to use some of the amazing Contax/Yashica lenses like the Planar 55mm f/1.4, and the stunning Planar 85mm f/1.4 for portraits.

I’m guessing that by adding a CY-M42 adapter it would also allow you to then use manual M42 mount lenses, which really opens up the amount and type of lenses you can use on the G2. I have an M42 adapter on my Aria and for me it’s the perfect mix of being able to use beautiful vintage German glass, but with the electronic exposure of the Contax.

I have used a G2 and G1 as my go to camera for 5 years now, and I still get a frisson of pleasure from using it every time. Although there must be issues with the autofocus, as I hear so many complaints, I have almost never had a problem. After a while you know when it’s focused. I usually focus and recompose as with other rangefinders, and my only complaint is the G1 will sometimes search for a while under difficult lighting conditions, and occasionally it takes a few goes to get the film to load on it (no problem with my G2 in this regard). But in reality I nail most shots first time, get incredible detail, colour and contrast, and have made more photographs that I love with this camera than with virtually any other. Certainly any 35mm camera. It feels amazing in the hands, and I although I will sometimes go to less automated cameras for a more manual experience, this camera is like a Cadillac. Love it.

I’ve been shooting with the same G2 body and lenses since 2008. I have experienced occasional focus quirks but removing and reattaching the lens has always cleared it up. I shoot portra160 exclusively and rarely have dropped shots because of the camera. It’s user error in lower light situations(thinking I can get the shot when it’s really not doable). I do agree though that critical focus shots(closer than 3-5 feet) are not this cameras strong suit so I use a true manual focus camera in those situations. The 90mm Zeiss blows me away in the sharpness category so I look for shots that fit that focal length. I use the manual focus in low light tripod shots(dusk to time exposure cityscapes) with complete confidence. Tackfuls comments could be mine for the most part. The ease with which I can shoot in fast moving environments is a joy and the depth of features yet ease of use let me shoot with confidence in practically any lighting situation. I love a great backlit shot and this cameras exposure lock feature is ideal. I have shot 100’s of rolls of film through this camera so I would be considered a serious film shooter by most and I have enjoyed this camera as much or more than my longterm(since 1984) use of a Canon F1-n. I came upon this site while searching for a repair site for a second G2 body so I am pleased to learn that a repair is possible. I love this camera and feel like the pressure is on me to see and shoot the best shot. Highly Recommended.

Your CLE post was a major factor in my biting the bullet and buying one…now this article makes me want a G2!

My Contax G2 shutter stopped firing and the film would not advance. I figured the camera was dead. But Nippon Photoclinic in NYC was able to repair it. 🙂

Great Article Thanks! I’m researching a new 35mm camera and I’m down to two. Funnily enough you have reviewed both – this one and the Minolta CLE. I would get the G2 in an instant if it wasn’t for the bad reviews of the viewfinder which is important for me. I like the Minolta for it’s size and viewfinder/ shooting experience – the Contax G2 for it’s lenses and autofocus. Both quite different and great cameras but could you choose one over the other?

The VF in the Contax is pretty good, IMO. It’s just like an SLR, in that it shows you exactly the image area you’ll get in the final shot, which I enjoy. CLE for manual focus, G2 for point and shoot, basically.

Thank you for the great review. Besides the 45, what would be your recommendation for a second G lens. I primarily shoot family portraiture, my kids and dogs, some street and abit of landscape. Thanks!

I love the 28mm.

Hi James. I recently bought a G2. It was a purchase made on instinct after being a Leica user. Unlike say buying a Nikon F3, the G2 has always had a reputation of unquestionable class and capability however marred by the many rumours and comments saying that eventually it would brick and at best be used for a paperweight. I have used it sparingly having a Ricoh GRIII and my Leicas. How we recent pictures of my family taken with the G2 are stunning. Perhaps it’s the edge delineation and contrast which creates a perceived dimensionality of the subjects. I hesitate to use the word 3d. But it is indeed so. There is hardly any fringing or chromatic abnormalities. Auto focus works better than 80% in good light. It’s a camera I’m certainly fortunate to possess and to use. I suppose you know that feeling too. Naysayers would certainly have much to say against the G2. But not everyone sees the light do they ?

well, not only do you have great taste in cameras but you also appear to have great taste in dogs as well (golden retriever <3).

Thanks! He’s a good boy. Getting old now, but still good.

I had a G2 with all of the lenses and liked it especially for travel, city and industrial photography. It was lightweight and fast to use compared with my Nikon F90X. The new Hologon is really a hit (as an owner of the original Zeiss Hologon I can compare them). I never had troble with the AF except in macro photography where the G2 is useless. But today it’s possible to use these nice lenses with the Nikon Z6 via an adapter. I’ll try it.

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Adox 300 review – a 35mm film camera with interchangeable film magazines, shooting boston’s seaport district with a contax tvs digital, film review : ferrania orto – a lesson in patience.

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Camera Geekery: Contax G2

Posted by Michael Nguyen | Dec 13, 2018 | Camera Geekery | 19 |

It can be said that film rangefinder technology culminated in 1996 with the release of the engineering marvel that is the Contax G2. The Contax G2 raised the standard for rangefinder cameras with a 4 FPS integrated motor drive, top shutter speeds of up to 1/6000, X sync at 1/200 second and an extended baseline autofocus system. The supposed Leica killer listed for US$2,250 with the 45 mm Planar lens when it debuted (almost $3,500 in 2018 dough) and became the rich-man/woman’s travel and vacation camera. The Porsche-designed titanium beauty has since developed a cult following despite the love/hate relationship documented by many a user. Curious to find out what the fuss is about? Let’s take a closer gander.

Design Aspects

The Contax G2 is touted for its ergonomics and well thought-out layout. Indeed, the AE Lock, shutter speed, EV compensation and even focusing modes all have their own dedicated single-purpose dials. In addition, the controls are arranged in a clever way with secondary adjusters positioned near or within other adjusters.

An example of this would be the the large exposure compensation dial located right next to the shutter release. While its location is quite handy and intuitive, underneath it you will find the handy little built-in Automatic Bracketing Control (A.B.C.) function (automatic exposure compensation on three consecutive frames) which allows you to do an exposure sequence consisting of one frame standard, one over and one under exposed. Bracketing works in both auto and manual modes!

The focusing mode dial which toggles focusing between single, continuous, and manual focus is well-positioned under the shooter’s thumb.

To the left of the top plate is a dedicated shooting mode dial that will let you choose between single shot, 2 FPS (CL), 4 FPS (CH), double exposure, and 10 sec. timer. While it’s a nice conception that is appreciated, in my sample I found the dial to move rather easily in a bag and would change accidentally during transport or removing from the bag.

The viewfinder of the Contax G2 is indeed unlike anything else you’ll see in a rangefinder. Many users have dubbed it the best viewfinder ever in a rangefinder; while that statement is up for debate I can agree that it is the most advanced. The viewfinder not only automatically compensates for parallax error for close focusing and features a diopter adjustment but zooms as you change lenses and corrects for different magnifications at different distances. Below you will find the magnification with different lenses.

There’s a backlit LCD display in the bottom of the frame that shows the shutter speed (but no aperture). It also serves as a light reading in manual mode with suggested adjustment arrows, exposure compensation status, a digital focus indicator when using auto-focus and an analog-style focusing scale when using manual focus, and the whole LCD display flashes to show when a photo’s been shot.

The AF system uses an active infrared beam to instantly get approximate focus and an instant later, a second precise passive rangefinder system fine tunes for exact focus. The speed and no-light performance of the active IR-beam AF can see up to 3m (10 ft) in the dark and the precision of passive AF can see through glass. Not much reassuring indication that things are in focus other than the bottom LCD, you’ll have to trust that it’s got it.

Sample Pics

The below color shots were taken on Agfa Vista 200 and black & white shots were taken on JCH Streetpan 400.

For me the Contax G2 could earn the moniker of “World’s Best Point and Shoot”.

Though designed as a technological revolution for rangefinder systems, I belong to the group of people who don’t love the finder. While I marvel at the tech behind the adaptive viewfinder, I do find myself missing two important aspects of shooting a rangefinder altogether: seeing outside the frame lines to anticipate a subject’s movement and accuracy of manually focusing. Manual focusing on the Contax G2 is so poor that it might as well not be an option.

In addition to the smaller and darker than other finders, I found the LCD display under it to be distracting in both brightness and size. Compounded with the uneasy feeling you get without confident feedback that things are in focus, it makes for an unoptimal user experience. That being said, the negs you get back are brilliant. Like the Contax T2, when it’s on it’s ON. It’s an unnerving experience (T2/T3 users must know the feeling) not knowing for sure if focus is correct but thankfully the AF is light years ahead and rarely misses. The body is beautifully manufactured and paired with an arsenal of top notch lens to work with, there’s no excuses not to get great images.

If you’re a rangefinder purist looking for a Leica replacement, that it is not. To me it shouldn’t even be a comparison, the experiences of both are too different. Manual purists stay away, but if you wanna enjoy the pinnacle of the 35mm film look and reliably leave all the decision making to your camera, the Contax G2 is hard to beat.

About The Author

Michael Nguyen

Phởtographer / Cinematographer, originally from the SF Bay Area. I've been in Japan for 11 years, initially as a graphic designer for a major ad agency then after the earthquake said f this s, became a freelancer and never looked back.

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19 Comments

Thank you for this post. It’s always good to see that this gem is still appreciated. Just one remark … regarding the AF confirmation, there is an AF confirnation symbol in the status LCD distance scale in the viewfinder. It shows when (and at what distance) the small central AF field has got focus. As long as no AF confirmation has been achieved, the shutter does not fire. If you use shutter-priority mode, the shutter fires immediately.

For me, the AF is simply stunning and I had not a single shot where I missed AF. It remembers me on the AF of my Yashica T5 which has a similar small central AF field.

I agree with everything you said. I’ve had the G1 and G2, and I love the G2, but the viewfinder is small and dark compared to an M. It is a beautiful camera and so well designed, but anyone saying it’s the best viewfinder just sounds ridiculous.

Great fun to shoot, though.

Very good camera. I have two bodies. I have been using for years, the sharpness of the lenses is very good. 21 mm wide angle perfect.

To whit, the things that bothered me about point and shoots: 1. Tiny, crappy viewfinders. 2. Not knowing where the thing is focused. 3. Not knowing what exposure the thing is going to use.

These things have made me not a point and shoot type of guy. Here we have check, check, and not check. So despite being a Contax fanboy and really liking their ergonomics I decided this camera probably wasn’t for me. The lenses though seem incredible.

Got one for a few years (with the 45mm and the 90mm). The lens lineup was really awesome (sharpness, contrast and so on) and the overall design of the camera is beautiful. Unfortunately I ended up selling the kit for the following reasons : 1) viewfinder wasn’t that great at all, parallax is indeed well taken care of but the size of the viewfinder was disappointing 2) as far as I know servicing / repairing these cameras is between extremely complicated to impossible. Risk of ending up with an expensive paperweight (same situation as a T2, 3 or else…) was too high. Prices are still going up, i sold the camera after almost 4 years of use at the same price i acquired it initially. The guy who bought it sold the whole kit after less than a year bumping the price by almost 300€. You really have to aknowledge the risks before buying one. I switched to a M4-P and the viewfinder is just night and day compared to the G2. I lost the AF and exposure mettering but I have never been the run and gun type.

Hard to believe you can really be a reliable reviewer of the camera when you can’t take a halfway decent picture with one. Those pics are terrible! Try to get some in focus next time. I would be ashamed to have published photos this terrible.

Thanks for having the urge to spend precious free time on such valuable constructive criticism #getyoureyeschecked

I agree that the viewfinder takes some getting used to. It’s leagues better than the squinty viewfinder on my Zeiss Ikon Contax IIa from the early 1950s. But it’s a PITA compared to the big, bright viewfinder on the modern Cosina Voigtlander R2C that I use with four early- to mid-1950s Zeiss and Nikkor lenses (35mm; 50 mm. 85mm; 135mm).

Still, I enjoy shooting all three “Contax” bodies. Regarding the G2, I particularly like it’s solid build, and having AF, which I find nails it most of the time. But the overriding reason most of us use a Contax G2 (or Contax IIa), is the lenses. Whether the “Zeiss” lenses that go with this body were built in Japan or Germany, the resultscan be magical..

Thanks for the review. There is also a 21 mm lens which is awesome.

Thanks for this review – I agree with everything you say apart from the viewfinder. It is teeny and tiny and not really that great for serious shots. Having said which, as a holiday camera, when you want to point and shoot, and rely on everything just being right, it is hard (impossible?) to beat. I just took mine to SE Asia (again) and am thrilled with the results (I am scanning some shots of Angkor Wat as I write this). And it is not just a holiday camera – you can use it for more serious work too.

The lenses are just amazing and even an average scanner will bring home astonishing results.

Thanks for the review!

Awesome pictures and great review. Thanks for sharing this!

Thanks for the review. Unfortunately, there is no single picture in focus. Maybe the camera AF system needs an overhault. Beside that, Zeiss lenses are nice.

I have looked and then looked again. Cleaned my glasses. Checked my computer screen. Put in eye drops. Yet I cannot see how you can claim that no single picture is in focus. Maybe I just have an alternative reality.

On my screen (Macbookpro Retina) all the pictures look definitely soft/blurry. Maybe its a screen thing?

Good review, but I agree that most of the posted images look soft. In particular, the fourth image of the barista pouring milk is soft across the entire image. These lenses have a great reputation but these example images do not demonstrate that very well. Thanks for the review.

Thanks for the review. Can this camera be repaired/serviced anywhere? Maybe through Mr. Bellamy’s connections in Japan? Looking into buying one but considering the investment it would be nice when minor issues could be serviced/repaired.

The old Contax UK website is still up and running hosted by a company called Alphas Optical Distribution and there is contact [email protected] . I think they used to offer a full adjustment and repair service for Contax gear but don’t know if they still do. It might be worth a try contacting them?

In the mean time I love my G2 and it’s lenses. The viewfinder is cleverly designed but disappointingly small and very dull especially when compared to my big, beautiful Zeiss Ikon ZM finder. That said the G2 is fun to use though the AF is noisy by modern standards.

Should have mentioned the URL for Contax UK is, as you might guess, https://www.contaxcameras.co.uk

A well-written review with excellent images. One poster commented on the softness of the photos – this is likely due to scanning, all the Zeiss Contax G lenses have wonderful optics and give you small engravings with gorgeous hues and luscious mid-tones in color of b&w.

The G1 is 90% as good as the G2 (well, I think so, anyway!!) if you can live with its limitations (there are a few) and also its quirks. For me the worst , but I do find this annoying. Then the pokey, small viewfinder. I put up with with how the G1 narrows the viewfinder images as you go up in the range 21-90. It’s also a somewhat noisy camera which can make it a liability for street work when you want to do a Cartier-Bresson quick snap and then go off to your next image without annoying or upsetting your victims…

The other elephant in the G1 room is the 90/2.8 Sonnar which is surely the worst lens in the G optics range – I’ve not used the 35-70 zoom as I have only G1s (in fact four of them!!) and no G2, so I can’t comment on this particular lens. Many new G1 owners buy the 90 as it’s the cheapest lens in the series, all the while forgetting or overlooking that there is a good reason for this. It’s a bummer of a lens to try to use for everyday shooting. Time and again I meet new G1 owners who bought this lens but can’t get used to its erratic focusing. They blame the camera and (in one particular case of a G1 buyer on Ebay in 2018) make a complaint to Ebay and want their money refunded, for the wrong reason. THEY and the lens are at fault, not the camera itself. One has to live with and learn this from experience, but even with the cheap selling price of the 90 it hurts.

With any of the other lenses, notably the 45/2.0 Planar and especially the magical 28/2.8 Biogon (I own two and they live almost fulltime on my G1s) but also the 35/20 Planar which can do wonderful things in t he right hands, Bob’s your uncle and the images you get will charm you.

Dann in Melbourne

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All About The Contax G2 35mm Film Camera: Why Is It So Good?

Whether you are a film photography professional, enthusiast, or a beginner picking up a new hobby, the Contax G series cameras have unique features that separate them from all of the other 35mm rangefinder cameras. If you’re looking to add a new camera to your collection, you may wondering what is the Contax G2 35mm film camera, how is it different than the G1, what does it have to offer, and why is it so good?

The Contax G2 is a 35mm film rangefinder-style film camera was designed by Porsche and made in Japan with an electronic rangefinder-style autofocus system that uses highly-praised, interchangeable lenses designed by Carl Zeiss . The camera was an update to the original Contax G1 which included several updates including a much improved autofocus system, faster sync speed, added an additional focusing mode, changed the drive button to a dial, rotated the LCD panel on the top, changed the location of the ISO button, and moved the manual focus dial to the front of the camera. The camera was introduced in 1996 by the Japanese company, Kyocera but stop producing the cameras in 2005.

What is the Contax G2 35mm Rangefinder?

The Contax G2 is a automatic 35mm film rangefinder-style camera was a unique camera amongst other cameras on the market at the time. With a fully electronic autofocus rangefinder-style system and automatic aperture-priority exposure system, it is an option for those looking for the familiar feel of a manual focus rangefinder with the ease of use autofocus features that came in a SLR cameras albeit in a smaller, more portable size.

These Porsche-design and Japanese-made cameras are considered one the most advanced 35mm rangefinders on the market and use some of the best lenses ever made. Others have suggested it is the best point and shoot film camera ever made. Contax G2 cameras were designed to hold their own against other high-end rangefinder cameras made by Leica and Voigtlander but without the high-end price tag.

Contax G2 Specs:

When did the contax g2 come out.

Technical Changes:

• A much improved autofocus system (with a dual passive & active AF with an assistance beam)
• An additional autofocusing mode (continuous) with safety mode (won’t let you take an image if the image isn’t in focus)
• Faster flash sync speed (1/200 vs 1/100)
• Faster shutter speeds in automatic and manual exposure modes

Aesthetic Changes:

• Changed the drive button to a dial
• Rotated the LCD panel on the top
• Changed the location of the ISO button
• Replaced the manual focus dial on the top of the camera with the G1 with the shutter speed dial on the G2
• Moved the manual focus dial to the front of the camera
• Larger and heavier body
• Added a champagne and black finish

However, Kyocera, the company that made the Contax G series cameras, shut down it’s camera division in 2005 which ended future cameras and the G-Mount.

Where is Contax G2 made?

The Contax G2, and Contax G1, 35mm film cameras were made in Japan by the Japanese company Kyocera Corporation. Unfortunately, production ended on the Contax G1 and G2 when Kyocera shut down it’s camera manufacturing at the end of 2005.

How Much Is A Contax G2 camera?

In 1996 when the Contax G2 was available and came with the 45mm F2 lens, the camera cost US$2,250 (equivalent to $3,500 in today’s money).

Today, how much you pay for a Contax G2 is really going to depend on the condition it is in and the seller you’re buying it from. The Contax G2 is on the higher end when it comes to cost and has risen even more so in the last few years due to its popularity. The current average price is around $1,400 for a body and around $2,500 with a lens, and if you’re looking for any color other than titanium (like the killer black edition), you can expect to spend even more. 

What is the Contax G2 made from?

The body of the Contax G2 is made from Titanium and is available in two finishes: champagne and black enamel coating. The titanium makes the Porsche-designed body sleek and stylish but easy to hold. The body of the camera weights around 1.25 pounds (560g / 20 oz ) without film and batteries and is 5.5 in (W) × 3.1 in (H) × 1.8 in (D) (139 mm × 80 mm × 45 mm) making it slightly lighter and larger than the Leica M6 35mm rangefinder camera.

Is The Contax G2 Manual?

The manual focus is controlled by rotating a wheel on the front of the camera that is then displayed in the viewfinder using a digital scale. While this system works, compared to other rangefinder cameras and the autofocus features already in the G2, it doesn’t make sense to use it.

Is The Contax G2 A Point and Shoot?

The Contax G2 35mm camera is a rangefinder-style 35mm film camera with autofocus and a built-in light meter. Some consider it more like a point-and-shoot camera rather than a rangefinder because, unlike most rangefinder cameras made by Leica, the focusing system is electronic and not mechanical. However, the Contax G2 camera uses the same process as a mechanical rangefinder with twin windows to triangulate the focus, it just uses a electronic focusing system that is a combination of an active AF system and a passive AF system.

This makes the Contax G2 one of the most advanced point-and-shoot cameras because autofocus system is very easy to use where you just point the camera at your subject and shoot the image while letting the camera make the decisions for you. Even in the dark!

What Lenses Work With The Contax G2?

The Contax G2 can be used with all seven lenses in the Contax G series:

Can You Use Contax G1 Lenses On A Contax G2?

Yes, all the lenses compatible with the Contax G1 can be used on a Contax G2. Unfortunately, it does not work the same in the other direction. While the Contax G2 can use all the of the Zeiss-designed lenses for the Contax G-series cameras, only four of them can be use on the G1. These lenses are:

• 90mm f/2.8 Sonnar

What Film Does The Contax G2 Camera Use?

Since the G2 is a 35mm rangefinder, like the Contax G1, can use any 35mm film including:

• Kodak Portra 400 (color negative film – 36 exposures per roll – ISO 400)
• Kodak Ektar 100 (color negative film – 36 exposures per roll – ISO 100)
• Fujifilm Fujicolor Pro 400H (color negative film – 36 exposures per roll – ISO 400)
• Ilford hp5 plus (black and white negative film – 36 exposures per roll – ISO 400)
• Kodak TX 400 (black and white negative film – 36 exposures per roll – ISO 400)
• Kodak Ektachrome E100 (color transparency film – 36 exposures per roll – ISO 100)

What Battery Does The Contax G2 Use?

Contax G2 takes 2 CR2 3V lithium batteries (like the Contax G1). The battery should last around 80 rolls of 24 images per roll 35mm film. The battery compartment is located on the bottom of the camera and requires a coin to turn and open the compartment cover. The battery warning mark will only show on the display panel when the batteries are running low, so if you don’t see it, then there’s no need for concern. 

How To Change the Battery on Contax G2?

To change the 2 CR2 batteries for the Contax G2 35mm film camera, follow these steps:

• Turn off the camera before replacing the batteries
• With the lens facing up, use a coin, a flathead screwdriver, or the side of a key to turn the battery compartment cover on the bottom of the camera to clockwise to remove it.
• Remove the spent batteries from the compartment and recycle and/or dispose of them
• Load the two CR2 (3v) batteries into the battery compartment with the positive polarity of both batteries toward the camera (usually the positive polarity is the side with the bump and the negative side is flat).
• Replace the cover and screw it back on the camera using a coin, screwdriver, or side of a key moving it counter-clockwise with the lens facing up.

Tips on Using Batteries in the Contax G2:

• Always replace old batteries with new ones of the same type and never mix old batteries with new ones. Always use the same brand and never mix brands.
• Battery performance is generally reduced by cold temperatures. When shooting in cold weather, keep the camera warm by keeping it in a bag or pocket to protect it against the cold. A battery reduced by low temperatures will return to normal at warm temperatures.
• Wipe both pole contacts with a clean and dry cloth when replacing batteries. Poor contact may happen if the batteries are dirty with sweat or grease
• The Contax G2 is fully electronic, which means it cannot take images without power. Keep spare batteries with you when shooting with the Contax G2, especially on long trips.

How Do I Check Shutter Count on Contax G2?

To check the shutter count on a Contax G2, look at the small LCD display close to the shutter release button on the top of the camera. This LCD display shows the exposure count and also shows the operation order of the Auto Bracketing Feature (called ABC mode), the end of the film (shown as “00”), time left in the self-timer, and elapsed time in bulb exposure (B) mode.

How Does The Contax G2 Autofocus work?

The Contax G2 35mm rangefinder uses 2 autofocusing systems: a combination of an active AF system and a passive AF system. The contax G2 begins to focus first with the active AF system and then uses the passive AF system to fine tune and check the original focusing point. The active autofocus system also uses infrared light to focus in the dark at close range. The lenses themselves don’t have a focus ring and focus by mechanical screw in the lens mount. Also, keep in mind the focus resets after each shot, which can slow your shooting down in fast conditions.

In practice, the Contax G2 has two autofocus settings set by using the focus mode dial on the rear of the camera. The first is the Single Auto Focus (SAF) mode. To use this setting, make sure there is film in the camera and turn it on. Look through the viewfinder and press the shutter button down halfway to gain exposure lock. If you are happy with the focus, press the shutter down all the way to take an image.

The second autofocus mode on the Contax G2 is Continuous Auto Focus mode. To use this setting, press the shutter down halfway, the camera will lock onto whatever is in the center of the viewfinder and continuously keeps the subject in focus. This mode works best for shooting children or subjects that are in constant movement.  

Continue reading for more specifics about the autofocus modes on the Contax G2.

Does The Contax G2 Have Manual Focus?

Yes, the Contax G2 has manual focus but it is mostly known for it’s autofocus. The camera has three focus modes: Single Auto Focus (SAF), Continuous Auto Focus (CAF), and Manual Focus (MF) which can be changed by moving the small dial on the back of the camera to the corresponding setting. See the image below to see where the dial is located.

Single Auto Focus (SAF)

To shoot in Single Auto Focus, turn the Focus-Mode Dial to the SAF position. In this mode, autofocus operates when the shutter release button is pressed halfway, then pressed down all the way once the focus is locked on the subject. The shutter will not operate unless the lens is in focus to save film.

Continuous Auto Focus (CAF)

Continuous Auto Focus operates when the shutter release is pressed halfway, but instead of locking the lens in position, focusing is performed continuously, locking onto whatever subject is in the center of the viewfinder. This mode works best for shooting children or subjects that are in constant movement.  

Manual Focus Mode (MF)

Manual focus modes is activated by turning the focus mode dial on the back of the camera to MF. To manually focus the camera, turn the focusing dial on the front of the camera and align the marks on the display panel in the viewfinder to focus your subject.

Can you Manually Focus a Contax G2?

Yes, to manually focus the Contax G2 put the camera into manual focusing mode by turning the focus mode dial located on the rear of the camera to the right of the viewfinder to “MF” or manual focus mode.

Once the camera is set in manual mode, the display in the viewfinder will show a focus scale and focusing mark. Rotating the focus dial located on the front of the camera (the dial was added to the G2 and doesn’t exist on the G1) until the scale is aligned with the index mark will indicate that the image is in focus.

Below is a guide to using the marks to focus the Contax G2 camera:

How Do You Put Lenses On A Contax G2?

To put a lens on a Contax G2, align the red dot on the lens with the index mark on the camera body. Insert the lens into the body and turn it clockwise while pressing it in. You should hear a click when the lens locks into place. 

To unmount a lens from the Contax G2, hold the lens grip ring and pressing the lens release button on the face of the camera. Turn the lens counterclockwise as you pull forward until the lens releases from the camera body. 

More tips on Mounting and Dismount lenses on the Contax G2 35mm film camera:

• The lens will not lock with a click if the lens does not mount correctly, or the red dot on the lens is not aligned correctly with the lens mark. If this happens, remove the lens and try to mount the lens again correctly.
• When the camera is loaded with film, avoid direct sunlight and other bright light when changing the lens to protect your film.
• Do not leave your camera in direct sunlight for any amount of time when is the lens is not mounted on the camera.
• When mounting and unmounting lens from any camera, it’s important to make sure that you don’t touch the lens surface or the camera’s inside. Always hold the lens around the grip ring and replace the rear cap and lens cap when not used. 

Does The Contax G2 Have A Built In flash?

Not, the Contax G2 camera does not come with a built in flash. However, Contax produced two flashes specifically to be used with the camera: the TLA Flash System. The TLA flash is a Through-The-Lens system (TTL) that uses direct light metering to automatically control the amount of light in the image that attaches to the hot shoe on the top of the camera.

Contax made the TLA140 and TLA200 for the G-series of cameras but others have found the Contax TLA280 and TLA360 flashes to work as well but they are much larger and don’t match the body. Most users prefer the smaller and lighter TLA140 flash to the larger TLA200. The TLA200 is a larger flash that takes more expensive batteries (2 CR2 batteries) and has a faster refresh time but is prone to producing red-eyes when people are looking at the camera and are more than 4 -5 feet away in images. The TLA140 flash is much less prone to red eyes but is not as powerful.

How to Use Flash on the Contax G2

When taking your photos indoors or at night, you will sometimes need to use a flash to light up your subject. Contax G series cameras do not come with a built in flash. However, they use the TLA Flash System, which uses direct light metering to automatically control the amount of light used through the use of a mountable flash that attaches to the hot shoe on the top of the camera. Contax made the TLA140 as well as the TLA200 flashes.

To use flash, first, mount the TLA flash unit on the hot shoe located on the top of your camera, then set the flash to “TLA AUTO MODE.”

Once the flash is fully charged, you will see a flash icon appear in the viewfinder. Set your aperture to avoid overexposure, then take the picture by pressing the shutter button. 

What is the Contax G2 Flash Sync Speed?

The Contax G2 flash sync speed is 1/200 of a second at most. In auto mode, you can get from 1/60th to 1/200 of a second but this is adjusted by the camera as needed. If you want slower sync speeds, you can select the slower speeds using the manual shutter speed dial.

How Do I Rewind My Contax G2?

The Contax G2 will automatically rewind your film when the film roll reaches the end and show this with a “00” on the exposure counter window on the top of the camera.

However, if you want to manually rewind the film or rewind the camera before the roll finishes, there is a manual rewind button on the side of the camera with an “R” that will activate the automatic film rewind. If you have the original camera strap, there is a part that will fit into the manual rewind button. Otherwise, you will need to use something small like a pushpin to activate it but be careful not to damage the button.

How Do I Put Film into My Contax G2?

To load the film into your Contax G2 camera, follow these steps:

• First, you will need to pop open the back of the camera by lifting and rotating the release knob located on the side in the direction of the arrow.
• Remove the protective sheet in the camera’s picture area and insert the film cassette into the film chamber at a slant with the protruding end facing down.
• Pull the film tip out as far as the red mark and place it on the spool, then close the back of the camera securely. The fill will advance automatically and stop when the exposure counter says “01.” 

How Do I Rewind Film in My Contax G2?

In a Contax G2, the film will automatically rewind once the entire roll is exposed. While it is rewinding, you should see the counter counting down until it hits “00” and blinks. Once it has stopped rewinding, you can unload the film. 

To rewind the film in the middle of a roll on the G2, you will need to press the manual rewind button located on the left-hand side of the camera when looking at the viewfinder, unlike the G1 where the rewind button is located on the bottom of the camera. You will probably need to use a fine-pointed object like the end of a paper clip but avoid using anything sharp such as a needle. 

How Do I Unload Film In My Contax G2?

To unload the film in a Contax G2, make sure you are in an area with subdued light, then open the back of the camera and pull out the film canister. I recommend storing your used film in a film canister to keep it out of light before you are able to develop it. If you are interesting in learning about how to develop your own film at home see this article .

One thing to keep in mind when loading your film is not to touch the shutter curtain with your finger or hit it with the tip of the film to avoid damaging it.

How Do I Check ISO Setting On Contax G2?

The ISO can be set by using the automatic setting modes using the DX codes on film or manual setting mode.

If you are using DX film and the film speed is set to “DX,” the camera will automatically set itself to the speed (or ISO) of the film you are using. You will know that camera is in automatic mode if you see “DX” on the display panel. If the camera is loaded with non-DX film, the film speed will automatically be set to ISO 100. 

You can also check the film speed setting by turning on the camera, pressing and holding down the ISO button for about 16 seconds. The LCD panel will show the ISO setting and if it is set by the DX code or not (100 ISO is default for non-DX film). To exit out of the setting menu, press the shutter halfway down.

How Do I Change ISO on Contax G2?

• Turn on the camera and switch the film speed to manual mode by holding the ISO button for about 1 to 2 seconds or until the ISO starts to blink on the display panel.
• While the ISO is being set, the display in the viewfinder will blink, and no pictures can be taken.
• Turn the focus dial (the front dial next to the lens) to change the ISO in 1/3 increments in a range of 6 to 6400. Turning the dial left makes the ISO value go down and turning the dial right makes it go higher).
• Once you’ve chosen your speed, turn the camera OFF, press the shutter down half-way, or wait about 16 seconds to complete the process and have the camera save the setting.

Is the Contax G2 Worth It?

The Contax G2 camera has a classic, streamlined feel, and quiet shutter noise. It is easy to carry, so you can always have a camera on you without having to lug a bulky, heavy weight around your neck. Plus, all of the buttons and dials are right where they need to be, making control the camera as fast and easy as modern digital cameras. You also can’t forget the dual autofocusing system and tack-sharp lenses that can compete with modern Leica lenses for their M series cameras (and are several times more expensive).

Is the Contax G2 35mm Camera Any Good?

Overall, I think the titanium-clad Contax G2 is a very interesting camera and worth checking out – even if the price point is inflated.

Below are some pros and cons of the camera from several reviews I’ve found online:

• Reasonably priced lenses are very sharp with fantastic contrast. These lenses can keep up more expensive Leica lenses (some people will have them modded so they can manually use them on Leica cameras)
• Beautiful titanium body that fits well in your hand
• Viewfinder is adaptable for parallax error and for different focal lengths (like the Fujifilm X-Pro series of digital cameras)
• Fully automatic but can also be used in with manual focus (can be a con – see below) and manual exposure
• Champagne and black finishes
• Fast flash sync speed
• Fast Shutter Speed
• Viewfinder is small and not very bright. It also doesn’t show much outside of the frame lines like other rangefinder cameras.
• Fully electronic so if the insides go bad it will either difficult or too expensive to fix
• Manual focus can be somewhat clunky
• Dials on the top of the camera do not lock so they can easily be bumped out
• Larger and heavier than the Contax G1
• LCD display in viewfinder is somewhat distracting in how bright it is and how large it is
• No focus indicator in viewfinder
• Manually focusing is not even close to other rangefinder film cameras like the Leica M series

My name is Lee Jones, MFA and I'm the professor behind The Photography Professor. My goal is to answer your questions about film-based photography in a format that is easy to read and understand.

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Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

23 April, 2016

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Morning all, I hope this finds you well with a hot beverage and ideally a biscuit nearby (I’m rather partial to a bourbon myself).

After speaking with Hamish about an advance compact a month or so ago I agreed to submit my thoughts in relation to the shiny Contax G2. I subsequently got somewhat side-tracked with the joys of editing, and then sold the camera in question (more on that later), which made me ponder if I should even submit my musings at all. Anyway I guess I should start at the beginning.

Hello, my name is Adam and I’m predominantly a portrait photographer. I generally work with model agencies and various other creative folk supplementing my digital work with polaroids and film.

I purchased the Contax G2 from our friendly Japan Camera Hunter . It was in great condition apart from some LCD leak situated in shutter counter (a common problem). It replaced my Lecia M6. I appreciate that may sound like blasphemy to some of you, and that by admitting to this a mob armed with pitchforks and torches running to my house as we speak but there was a purpose to this. The Contax G2 would act as my daily analogue camera in the same way as the M6, but in addition, and unlike the M6 had the extra capability of a “usable” flash sync with my studio equipment.

Anyway below is a very brief synopsis of my findings.

Ergonomically, the Contax G2 feels great in your hand. The addition of a thumb rest and small grip really enables you to get a grip over the camera, rather than it feeling like a slippery metal bar of soap. It feels so reassuringly solid that you may believe you could defend yourself from a rampaging rabid goat with a swift twat to the head, although I might add, this is not a course of action I would recommend or condone.

The Twiddly Bits

It has them, all of the ones you can possibly want. From exposure compensation, exposure lock, auto bracketing (because film isn’t expensive at all) and various shooting modes. It’s all rather easy to control by feel and the dials have a good amount of resistance on them.

It also has custom modes, although generally I didn’t use them because it requires you push ISO and focus lock button down for a few seconds, and then twiddle the manual focus dial. Then up, down, left, right, A, B, C, start and then you get the level select and Super Sonic options. Ahh I might got muddle up with the last sentence. I do have friends who use the custom options, but generally I didn’t feel the need too.

Manual focusing requires more twiddling of the front nob. It’s a chore and I never perfectly felt comfortable that I have actually focused on what I intended so I kept with the autofocus.

Th Contax G2 autofcus works like magic. So much so after you receive a roll of film perfectly in focus you may feel the need to make a sacrifice to the great camera gods. It does however sound like Robocop. It’s not loud, I doubt many people would notice it in a street scenario unless you are close enough to steal their last Fruit Pastel, which I might add is somewhat frowned upon.  

The Contax G2 viewfinder is small “ish” (I think I have read somewhere .57x magnification with the 45mm but please don’t quote me on this) but very accurate and It compensates for parallax, which you would expect from a Robocop of a rangefinder. It also has the added benefit of diopter adjustment for those who wear glasses.

The best thing about the viewfinder is that not once will you have to worry about the rangefinder patch deciding to disappear and go on holiday when lighting conditions get a little more challenging.

I don’t look at MFT charts. Really who has the time? Comparing the images from 45mm to the 50 cron’ they look just as good in my opinion. That’s all I can say.

So to summarise my experience with the Contax G2 there is a lot to like about this camera. It’s almost a perfect camera for those who want an automated rangefinder camera with manual overrides, and that is why I ultimately sold it. I missed the more manual process of shooting with a manual camera. Of course I could shoot the Contax G2 in full manual, but when you have the options of automated everything I found myself ultimately getting lazy, and shooting it as I would a digital camera. One of the joys of shooting film is in my opinion the manual interaction with the equipment so I now find myself with another Leica.

Hopefully you enjoy the varied selection of images I’ve submitted. All images were processed by Aperture in London and UK Film Lab (Who I couldn’t recommend enough for level of service).

You can find my latest work on Instagram – www.instagram.com/ adamlawsphotography/

Or alternatively my website – www.adamlaws.com

All the best,

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Camera Review Blog No. 15 – Kyocera Contax G2 – Alex Luyckx | Blog on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

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Frank H. Wu on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

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Comment posted: 22/01/2017

Richard Stone on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

Comment posted: 26/05/2016

Aaron on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

Comment posted: 24/05/2016

Adam Laws replied:

Evening Aaron my apologies for what must be one of the longest waits for a reply. In relation to focus I indeed focus on the eyes and then recompose. The autofocus on the G2 never let me down. You just have to trust in the electronics. It is probably fair to say I got the more "keepers" with this than my leica due to the ease of focus. I would generally be out on my focus on 3-4 images on the lecia. With the contax I would get rolls back perfectly in focus.

rollbahn on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

Comment posted: 25/04/2016

jeremy north replied:

I agree that a G3 with proper manual focus would have knocked every other camera into a cocked hat! I've read a lot of bad comments about the 35mm Planar but I don't get why. I'm not a pixel peeper so can't comment on its sharpness performance at f2. All I know is it is a great all round performer and while I like the 45 & 28 better it is the ideal one lens option. It is true that Contax was one hell of a company. Well underestimated by the Canikon fans. The RTS series was ahead of the game as was the 645 (the best of its type). I think they were even out there with the N series and digital. Even the early Contax (pre Yashica) are revered. The rangefinders, in particular, were thought to be better and more innovative than the Leicas, though not quite the same tank-like build. Like Hamish, I have a Contax iia with the Sonnar 50/1.5 which is a stunning outfit

jeremy north on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

Comment posted: 24/04/2016

Richard on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

Comment posted: 23/04/2016

Des McSweeney on Contax G2 Review – by Adam Laws

Morning Des, thank you for your kind words. I would love to say in the spirit of Robert Capa or such like I risked life and limb for the photograph but alas I did not. The scorpion is an animatronic shot on a roll of HP5.

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Contax g2 35mm rangefinder – featured user review.

Your opinions and experience are important to other photographers. Share that experience by writing reviews for your cameras and other photo gear. You don’t have to be an expert – everyone’s opinion counts.

Featured Review: Contax G2 35mm Rangefinder

by bobby novatron (Intermediate)

Summary: So much has been written about the G1 / G2 from Contax over the past ten years. At the outset, it doesn’t seem like there’s very much that I can add. Maybe it would help if I clarified why I think this particular 35mm film camera is still relevant in 2010 and beyond.

The Contax G2 represents (arguably) the pinnacle of rangefinder camera technology. As a design piece, it’s worth collecting just for that reason. The build quality, materials, fit & finish are all impeccable. It feels incredibly solid in your hand.

As a photographic tool, the G2 is really in a rarefied class that includes Leica and not much else. This is the kind of camera that makes offerings from Panasonic, Sony, and other Japanese brands seem plasticky and gimmicky.

At the same time — one has to remember that the G2 is “stuck in the past”. You’re dealing with a film camera. FILM. It’s a bit of an archaic idea in this hyper-fast, super-networked facebooked uploaded instantaneous-everything world we live in.

So why bother? Why get a G2, when you can get a Lumix? Or an Olympus EP-1? You can get cool lens adapters and use the bloody Contax Biogon lenses (yes, all of them) on your snazzy 2010 digital camera. Heck, the Carl Zeiss Biogon lenses are so cheap on eBay, you could stock up on lenses and not bother with the G2 body at all.

Well, the reason you might want to get a G2 system is this: the “aesthetic” of film. Film has “something” that digital doesn’t have. Sure, digital wins on many fronts: convenience, color rendition, sophisticated metering, etc. … but film sometimes can just look “better”. But that’s highly subjective, and only for you to decide.

The G2 represents one of the the final, grandiose products of the Contax name, as well as the fatal hubris of Kyocera and the decline and destruction of Kyocera’s photographic division. While Canon and Nikon got their act together and successfully transitioned to digital while increasing market share, the engineers at Kyocera blew it — big time. By the time they got around to making a digital camera (the Contax N & the Contax TVS) it was too little, too late.

If you’re interested in photography, and especially keen to explore the world of 35mm film, I highly recommend getting one of these cameras. The body is a masterpiece of engineering, and the lenses are legendary and extraordinary.

Strengths: Did I mention the lenses? There’s a reason why a strong aftermarket still exists for these lenses. The imaging quality of the Biogon series is really amazing. There is something about the “feel” of these lenses — I can tell right away by looking at a photo that it was taken with a Zeiss Biogon. Extremely sharp, virtually no vignetting or distortion, and a subtle, pleasant background blur (bokeh).

The G2 body is a major improvement over the G1 (I have owned both). The AF system on the G2 is far superior to the G1. Autofocus is screamingly fast on the G2.

Parallax correction on the G2 is wonderful. No framelines like on the Leica M series.

Motor drive & film loading on the G2 make it a pleasure to use. Extremely fast film transport, plus auto rewind.

Body materials and construction on the G2 & Biogon lenses is 1st-rate. You’re virtually getting Leica quality for pennies on the dollar, now that Contax has long closed its doors.

Despite rumours on the internet, you can still get these repaired. Parts and service is not an issue.

Weaknesses: Yes, the viewfinder is a little dark, but in most situations it’s not a problem.

Mounting the lenses on to the body is very fiddly. Like other reviewers have stated, it’s not nearly as simple as the twist-click of using a Canon lens. It takes some concentration to ensure that your lens is mounting properly. Also, I have found that different lenses mount easier than others. I do no know why this should be so.

The AF and metering is not multi-matrix, like modern digital SLR’s. You have to be aware that the Contax AF system is more of a simple center-weighted idea. It is still possible to miss a crucial shot because the AF thinks you’re aiming somewhere else.

The motor drive is a little noisy, but only in the immediate vicinity of the camera body. A couple feet away, and the noise is not a problem. It only sounds loud to G2 users because they’re holding it next to their heads! On a busy street, the sound of the motor would be imperceptible.

One more weakness: manual focus. This has been stated on numerous places on the web, but yes — it’s true. The engineers at Kyocera really blew it on the manual focus. They might as well have not even put this option on the G2 at all. You have no idea whether your manual focus is actually going to work or not. Using the G2 as a “scale focus” camera — or using “hyperfocal” settings — is really iffy because there are no scale markings on the lenses whatsoever. If they had managed to put #1 a coincident RF patch in manual mode and #2 hyperfocal values on the lenses, then this would not be a problem. But then it would have been a different camera, no?

And finally — the AF selector. I use my thumb on the rear of the body to activate the AF on the very handy multi-function button. Unfortunately, this button has a ring-selector to choose between different AF modes (continuous, single, and manual) and I have found that my thumb has caused the ring to move and put me in an unwanted mode, usually “manual”, which is especially useless. Another flaw, but a minor one.

Similar Products Used: Bessa R3A, Leica M6.

Customer Service: None. Unless you invent a time machine and go back to 2002. However, there are service depots in Japan and USA that will still repair these cameras (as of 2010).

Related Content: All Contax User Reviews 35mm Rangefinder Camera User Reviews Film Photography Forum All Featured User Reviews All Film Photography News & Articles

Photo-John, a.k.a. John Shafer, is the managing editor of PhotographyREVIEW.com and has been since the site launched back in 1999. He's an avid outdoor enthusiast and spends as much time as possible on his mountain bike, hiking or skiing in the mountains. He's been taking pictures for ever and ever, and never goes anywhere without a camera.

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Contax G2: A Step Above

A long-time fan of plastic cameras, Argentinean writer and photographer Lorraine Healy ( @lorrainehealy ) is the author of “Tricks With A Plastic Wonder,” a manual for achieving better results with a Holga camera. In this article, Healy explores her first experience with a top-rated camera, the Contax G2.

I have never been someone who spent a lot of money on expensive equipment, be it cameras, lenses, or accessories. I started out with a Yashica 35 rangefinder, moved up to a Canon A-1 with cheap lenses, and never gave a thought to the quality of filters I used, the real sturdiness of my tripods, or any other matter other than making images that I found pleasing. Of course, this made me an absolute natural for the world of plastic and toy cameras—in my opinion, sharpness was overrated and pristine depth of field was rather a bore. Holgas, Sprocket Rockets, Lubitels, even Polaroids were inexpensive, funky, and gave me the kind of randomness that surprised me every time.

As I moved deeper into medium format, I found myself attracted to cameras that were more up-market than my usual Holgas and my occasional Diana. Somehow the bigger negative made me appreciate a different kind of image, and I fell hard for a Mamiya 67. There is also a Yashica 124G TLR that I will never let go, even if I now find the weight of it a bit too much to carry all day.

They say that most of us photographers suffer from G.A.S.—Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a feeling that if only we had a better lens, that pro camera, that whole new kit, we would take the perfect images we envision in our minds. And that we all have a secret (sometimes not so secret) wish list, and it takes us to those auction sites where we look and dream. One of those cameras for me was the Contax, in both the G line (interchangeable lenses) and T line (fixed lens).

The Contax camera was Kyocera’s answer to the Leicas and Ricoh GRs— 35mm rangefinder film cameras widely considered to be the best of the best. Each brand and model of these high-end cameras has its own die-hard fans, and it is not my intention here to try to convince anyone about the superiority of any one of these fantastic systems. The Contax happens to be the one I kept looking at, time and again. This is not an inexpensive camera system by any means, so the problem with checking auction sites was wondering whether I could trust a seller before plunking down a significant amount of money. When a Twitter friend who is an awesome photographer announced he was selling his Contax system because he wasn’t using it enough, I jumped at the chance. I had seen the work he shot with the camera, and I knew this was one particular camera and seller I could trust.

It is not a strictly mechanical focus rangefinder, sporting an insanely fast AF electronic capability, but it can also go full manual, if desired. As a matter of fact, the AF system and the shutter itself are so insanely fast that I have ended up taking some shots entirely unprepared, thinking I was merely focusing before re-composing and shooting. I am slowly learning the intricacies of shooting with this wonderful camera and it is clear to me that only time with it and practicing lots will make me a worthy handler of such a tool. It is not that one cannot take great images right away with it, but I would like to get to know it like I knew my A-1, or like I know my Holgas.

On a recent trip to Portland, Oregon, I kept making mistakes, like not really remembering how to shoot long exposures, or getting flustered because I was unable to get the images I knew I wanted. The learning curve with a really good camera, if you haven’t used one before, is more uphill than we realize. Still, I’m keeping the Contax and I’ll be using it lots. Some of the images below convinced me it will be worth the time and effort.

Does this mean I am giving up on my Superheadz, Sprocket Rockets, LCAs, Debonaires, and every crappy camera I own? Not in the least. But just as I discovered a long-dormant passion for pinhole cameras this past year, I think 2018 will be a year in which I will explore making a different kind of image with a top-notch camera like the Contax G2. It’s all about not getting stuck in ruts and always feeling the excitement and pleasure of film photography, right? And, on that note, I wish you a fantastic 2018, great light, an abundance of film, and all of your favorite cameras to put it through!

Lorraine Healy ( @lorrainehealy ) is an Argentinean writer and photographer living in the Pacific Northwest. A long-time fan of plastic cameras and she is the author of “Tricks With A Plastic Wonder,” a manual for achieving better results with a Holga camera, available as an eBook from Amazon.com.

written by Lorraine Healy on 2018-01-06 #gear #35mm #color #b-w #contax-g2 #contax

steeveephoto , mcgloin , yaodasu , polaroidlove , dr_dorokhov , smolda , jaunman , w-david , gakurou , aronne , metaluna , yulia_adamova , mlchaelbexley , schugger , lizkoppert , jonkersey , carblkm5 , pinkbutterfly , poketree , sirio174 , zhenyaetoya , rik041 , wildholzkamera , sierravictor & lomodesbro .

Lorraine, you say that you are looking forward to getting to know your Contax G2 This absolutely stunning introduction promises a very creative and exciting partnership for you both. The fantastic 28 & 45 lens, graphic Ilford FP4, diffused pastel colours with Fuji Superior 200. Not too mention Holgas & pinholes. Where did you dig up the Edsel? Go well.

The Contax G2 is a great camera. The only weak point is the difficult to find electronics spare parts in case of fault.

I really enjoyed the article and the photos!

@jonkersey Thanks so much! @sirio174 I know, I know... And I pray it won't happen for many decades!!! @lomodesbro thank you so much, Des! The Edsel was out for sale near the Volvo and the red coup, just out there in the weather for about 3 months and it must have sold because it is no longer there. The other two are still there, still for sale.... :)

Great article Lorraine! Your photos are amazing. :-)

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First Roll - Contax G2 Black 35mm Film Rangefinder

Feb. 28, 2019, 9:11 p.m.

Blog , for photographers, *first roll*.

Ever since I immersed myself in the world of film cameras, the Contax G2 35mm rangefinder in black was a grail camera. It's rare, it has the pedigree of Contax and the devoted love of street photographers everywhere. Some say it was a rich man's point and shoot, with a few more bells and whistles. For those that have used it extensively, it often occupies a permanent spot in their rotation. I had to try it.

I happened upon the camera by chance on a trip to New York - seemingly the only place of existence for these cameras anymore.

Here are the images from my first roll, shot on Kodak Tri X 400 film and developed by The FIND Lab.   https://thefindlab.com/

Stay tuned for my full review...

• first roll ,
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Contax G1 vs G2 (The KEY Differences)

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In short, when comparing the Contax G1 vs G2, the Contax G2 is the successor of the Contax G1 and, as such, is the superior camera in nearly every aspect. That said, the G1 is the budget choice since it costs four times less than the superior G2. When it comes to rangefinders, Kyocera did the unthinkable back in the day and released autofocus rangefinder cameras. The Contax T, T2, T3 , and TVS were fixed lens autofocus rangefinders, while the Contax G1 and G2 were aimed towards the pros, with interchangeable autofocus lenses.

Back then, most people were used to manual focus cameras since there weren’t many autofocus cameras available, especially not compact ones.

The cameras were exceptionally well built, where base models were made from Titanium, and they all used high-quality Carl Zeiss lenses. Of course, Contax started out as a Carl Zeiss-designed camera model , and later it turned into a brand that was developed and produced by Kyocera in Japan.

The G1 and the G2 were the most prominent cameras that Kyocera produced. Less than ten years after the release of the G2, Kyocera exited the camera market completely, thus making Contax an indefinitely dormant brand.

Being a true revolution, exceptionally stylish and well designed, feature-packed, and retro looking, makes the Contax G1 and G2 highly sought-after rangefinders nowadays.

So, if you are in the market for a G1 or G2 but aren’t sure which one is the right choice, this article is written to help you make the right decision.

Contax G1 Overview

• Film: 35mm, DX ISO 25-5000. A manual setting between ISO 6 and 6400.
• Shutter Speed: 16s – 1/2000s in auto, and 1 – 1/2000 in manual.
• Flash Sync: 1/100s
• Autofocus System: Passive Phase Detection with AF assist lamp.
• Burst speed: 2fps.
• Size: 133×76.5x35mm
• Weight: 450g

Back in 1994, when the Contax G1 was released, it boasted various electronic features designed with ease of use in mind. Kyocera wanted to improve on the limitations the Contax T and T2 had, mainly in the focal length department.

The Contax T and T2 were fixed lens point-and-shoot cameras, whereas the G1 came with a couple of different lens options and a rangefinder that zoomed in depending on the lens you have mounted. Unlike today’s cameras, where you have a wide plethora of lenses to choose from, the G1 has only a few. 

Out of the box, you could use a 16mm f/8, 28mm f/2.8, 45mm f/2, and a 90mm f/2.8. However, a “green label” G1 is modified to accept two more lenses: a 21mm f/2.8 and a 35mm f/2. The modification is done by Kyocera, meaning that back in the day, you could either buy a “green label” G1 or send your “silver label” G1 to Kyocera to be “modified/upgraded” to accept the newer 21mm and 35mm lenses. All lenses are high-quality Carl Zeiss producing exceptionally sharp and good-looking images.

The viewfinder automatically adjusts to the focal length of the lens attached , with the exception of the 16mm and 21mm lenses, for which you’ll need an external viewfinder.

The camera focuses by using two CCD arrays to achieve phase detection in the middle of the frame. That is the passive component of the autofocus system. For dimly lit subjects, an AF assist lamp turns on. In other words, the autofocus might struggle in low light for subjects further than 2-3 meters .

You can use a single shot (focus lock) or continuous autofocus. However, that is controlled by the drive mode of the camera. This means that if you want continuous autofocus, you’ll have to use continuous shooting mode too, and vice versa .

The autofocus motor is in the camera and uses a screw to drive the focus in the lens. So expect some noise, since it is not the quietest.

Moreover, the camera is designed to be nearly fully automatic . That means that the camera will measure exposure via center-weighted metering and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Essentially being an aperture priority automatic mode.

It will also measure flash exposure via TTL metering and adjust the flash power of the compatible TLA 140 and TLA 200 flashes.

Looks-wise, it is a relatively stylish camera with a titanium build and finish, which also comes with a rarer black titanium variant. Being made out of Titanium, it is a quite durable camera. The lenses come in the same two finishes to match the camera accordingly.

• Great looking retro camera with a titanium finish.
• Durable due to the titanium casing.
• All lens choices are sharp and excellent Carl Zeiss T* Lenses.
• The viewfinder adjusts itself to the focal length of the lens.
• Has Automatic Metering, Focusing, and Film Advance and Rewind. 
• Quite affordable on the used market.
• Autofocus can struggle in low light for subjects that are further away.
• Manually focusing is quirky and needlessly complex.
• The viewfinder is a bit dark and small.
• If you want to use more lenses, you’ll have to look for “green label” G1.
• Slow 1/100s flash sync.

Contax G2 Overview

• Shutter Speed: 16s – 1/6000s in auto and 4 – 1/4000 in manual.
• Flash Sync: 1/180s
• Autofocus System: Dual Passive Phase Detection and IR Triangulation with AF assist lamp.
• Burst speed: 4fps.
• Size: 139x80x45mm
• Weight: 560g

Two years after the G1 was released, Kyocera released the Contax G2. A successor to the G1, which improved many aspects of the G1 without breaking anything that worked well.

Outright you’ll notice some ergonomics improvements. The manual focus dial is now in the front, which makes the quirky manual focus a little less quirky. Still not great, though.

The shutter speed dial is now where the focus dial used to be, and the old shutter speed deal is now just an exposure compensation dial. On the left side, the drive select button is now a dial, and the ISO button is still a button but a differently shaped one.

The Contax G2 can take all of the lenses that the G1 “green label” could and an additional 35-70mm f/3.5 – 5.6 lens. Of course, the zoom lens is also a Zeiss one.

On a more important note, the autofocus system is vastly improved . It features two passive systems with phase detection and infrared triangulation, which enhances accuracy and speed. Moreover, the focus modes aren’t coupled with the drive modes anymore .

The camera has a faster film-advancing motor, which allows it to shoot 4fps without any issues. 

Just like the G1, the G2 has the same fully automatic design in mind , which means that it will measure the exposure via center-weighted metering and can adjust the shutter speed accordingly. It, too, will do TTL flash power control. However, unlike the G1, the G2 can sync the flash up to 1/180th of a second .

Design-wise, it is still the same titanium-made sturdy and stylish body, and it doesn’t look that different from the G1 from afar. A black titanium variant is available for the G2 as well, with lenses being available in both finishes. 

• Improved autofocus system that can handle low light better.
• Carl Zeiss T* Lenses are all excellent.
• Tough titanium casing.
• Retro look works very well.
• Significantly more expensive than the G1 on the used market.

Contax G1 vs G2 Comparison

We’ve already gone through a short overview of both cameras, which means we can now dive deeper into the direct comparisons between the two cameras. This is the part that will help you understand which camera is better suited for you.

Lens Selection

Both cameras are interchangeable lens cameras, meaning you can use various lenses with them. Unlike the trend with modern SLR and DSLR cameras, where you have a plethora of lenses to choose from, from different first and third-party manufacturers, with the Contax G system, you are limited to the handful of lenses Carl Zeiss produced for the cameras .

There are precisely seven lenses that Carl Zeiss produced for the Contax G line:

• 16mm f/8 Hologon
• 21mm f/2.8 Biogon
• 28mm f/2.8 Biogon
• 35mm f/2 Planar
• 35-70mm f/3.5-5.6 Vario-Sonnar
• 45mm f/2 Planar 
• 90mm f/2.8 Sonnar

To understand which lenses can be used with which camera, first, you need to realize that there are two G1 variants: silver and green labels . The label is in the film compartment, and green label G1 means it has been modified from the factory, or an authorized service center, to accept more lenses than the regular G1. 

So, the regular G1 takes the following lenses:

• 45mm f/2 Planar

The green label G1 takes all the regular G1 lenses, plus the following:

The Contax G2, on the other hand, can take everything that the G1 and G1 green label can handle, plus the 35-70mm f/3.5-5.6 Vario-Sonnar, which means that you have a wides variety of lenses with the G2.

The G1 and G2 can adjust their viewfinders automatically between 28 and 90mm, which means for the 16mm and the 21mm lenses, you’ll need an external viewfinder mounted on the hot-shoe. The G2 also adjusts the viewfinder for the zoom lens, which is quite neat.

Except for the 35mm and the zoom lens, all lenses are exceptionally sharp with excellent color rendition. Some people consider the 35mm lens the weakest link among the prime lenses, even though it is the newest prime in the bunch. The zoom lens is a bit softer compared to the prime lenses, but that is to be expected from a zoom lens from the nineties. In summary, if you are going for a G1, go for a green-label one since you can use more lenses. Otherwise, if you want to use all the lenses, then go for a G2.

You can use a GA-1 adapter for Contax SLR lenses on the G1 and G2. The adapter can be set to adjust the viewfinder to the correct focal length, and it will allow the cameras to measure the distance to the subject. The bad thing is you’ll have to set the distance the camera gives you to the lens focus scale. In other words, you are focusing pretty much blindly.

On both cameras, the autofocus will be slow, noisy, and unreliable if you measure it by today’s standards. That being said, the autofocus was revolutionary for the time, and if you use it properly, it will serve you well.

Bear in mind that there are significant autofocus differences between the two cameras. The Contax G2 being the successor, it has the more advanced autofocus system, which has two passive systems aided by an active AF assist lamp.

That means the G1 has two CCD sensors in two different windows (you’ll see the windows left and right above the lens, next to the viewfinder), and the camera compares the images between the two sensors to achieve correct focus.

This method is similar to the modern phase detection autofocus, just a bit rudimentary. In low light, an AF assist lamp lights up to aid the phase detection autofocus for close subjects.

The G2, on the other hand, has an improved phase detection autofocus via CCD sensors, which is aided by an infrared system with triangulation. That means it will focus faster and better than the G1 and handle low light with increased consistency.

Both cameras have some inconsistencies when focusing with the 90mm lens. Therefore, if you see yourself using the 90mm lens the most, you’ll have to be a bit more careful when focusing with it.

Moreover, both cameras are capable of Locked Focus and Continuous focus methods, meaning they can track a subject if it is not moving too fast.

However, the Contax G2 autofocus system’s superiority means it will track more consistently, and you can use the continuous autofocus with a single shot or continuous shooting modes. With the G1, if you want continuous autofocus, you’ll have to use continuous shooting mode too. They are linked together.

All in all, autofocus-wise, the G2 is superior in every aspect.

Shooting Modes and Usability

From the aspect of automatic modes, both cameras feature the same modes. However, there are subtle and not-so-subtle differences there.

Because the G2 uses a different shutter mechanism, it can shoot up to 1/6000th of a second, which is a significant improvement over the 1/2000th of a second maximum with the G1.

The improved shutter mechanism over the G2 means that you can set the camera to do exposures from 4 seconds up to 1/6000th of a second in manual mode, a significant improvement in the range compared to the 1 second to 1/2000th of a second with the G1.

The faster shutter mechanism of the G2 allows for a faster flash sync speed of a respectable 1/180th of a second, an almost one-stop improvement over the 1/100th of a second of the G1.

Having an improved shutter mechanism and a faster film winding motor allows the G2 to shoot up to 4 frames per second, a 100% improvement over the two frames per second on the G1.

Moreover, in the drive mode selection of the Contax G2, you can select between 2fps and 4fps by selecting CL and CH, respectively. The Contax G1 doesn’t have slow or fast burst rate control. By removing the manual focus dial from the top dials and placing it on the front side of the camera, Contax resolved a good amount of the ergonomic problems that the G1 had. This way, you can control the shutter speed and exposure compensation via different dials, and the manual focus dial is out of the way from the exposure control section of the camera.

Both the G1 and the G2 allow for diopter correction on the viewfinder. However, the G2 allows for a diopter lens to be inserted for correction past the built-in one. You can probably do the same on the G1, but it will require some creative thinking and won’t be a plug-and-play solution. While we are on the viewfinder topic, the viewfinders between the two cameras are identical. Both show a focus bar, so you know whether you are in focus or you are back or front focusing. Both show whether you have exposure compensation, and both show whether you are over or under-exposing. Moreover, both will show you the shutter speed but without the fraction. So a 200 means you have a shutter speed of 1/200th of a second. Both cameras can do double exposures, and both cameras can do exposure bracketing. 

Simply put, in this case, too, the G2 is a superior camera with greater flexibility.

Style and Design

Given that both cameras look nearly identical and are made from the same materials, the design and durability won’t differ much. Both are made from titanium with durability in mind.

You can find both in the clean titanium, which is sort of a champagne color, or the black titanium variant, which is darker. Lenses come matched in the same champagne or black titanium.

On the used market, the black titanium variants of both cameras fetch a higher price since there were fewer units produced , thus being rarer, especially for a wholly matched set with all the bells and whistles.

However, since the G1 is a simpler and a bit more limited camera, it means that it has fewer dials visible, thus being a bit cleaner design-wise. The G2 has a large manual focus dial from the front, which somewhat ruins the symmetry. 

The G1 is also lighter by around 90g and marginally smaller, which might be a feature for some photographers. Both cameras fit well in hand, are pretty ergonomic, and can be operated easily. The G2, depending on the copy, can sometimes have a slightly loose drive selection dial, which you can accidentally change. 

That being said, design-wise, from a subjective standpoint, the G1 is the winner by a slight margin. However, having the dials in a better position puts the G2 on top from a usability standpoint.

These feature-packed rangefinder cameras come at a price. Depending on your tolerance for used items, the price will vary. But in general, the G2 is significantly more expensive than the G1. On eBay, you can find a mint condition champagne G1, body only, for around $300 . A G2 in the same condition and color will set you back around $1200 . A 3 lens set (28mm, 45mm, 90mm) and a G2, champagne color in mint condition will cost around $2100 or more. In comparison, a green label G1 with the same three-lens set will cost $1100 . If you wish to get the rarer black variant, a G2 with the three lens set and a TLA200 flash, all matching colors can set you back upwards of $8000 . That is a steep price to pay for gear that is that old and has limited serviceability. Price-wise, the G1 is the more affordable option, where the G2 costs around four times more. Since the lenses are the same, their cost is the same whether you use a G1 or G2. The black variant is significantly more expensive and probably worth it for collectors. 

Remember that accessories for cameras like this can add up to the price quickly, as some titanium lens caps or hoods can fetch $30-$50 easily. 

Also, keep in mind that the CR3 batteries this camera uses might be hard to find, depending on where you live. So you should stock up on a couple if you plan to travel with the camera, as you might not be able to find them easily in every part of the world.

Contax G2 vs G1 Photo Examples

Below are a few example photos from both the Contax G2 and G1 to give you an idea of their capabilities. Note that the final result is more dependent on 35mm film quality and photographer skill than on the camera!

Contax G1 Photo Examples

Contax G2 Example Photos

Which is the Better Option Between the Contax G1 vs G2?

Both are very advanced film rangefinder cameras, and their technologies are hard to match, especially for their era. Their main competitors are the manual focus offerings, which come in the form of Leica , which costs a fortune. 

That being said, since the G2 is a successor of the G1, it means that it is superior in nearly every aspect there is, although the superiority is marginal, and the G1 isn’t a bad camera by any means.

Many pro photographers still hold on to their G1’s since they do the job, and if anything breaks, the bill to repair or replace them is significantly smaller.

On the other hand, if money isn’t an issue, and you want the utmost superiority, the G2 is the way to go. If your budget is a bit tighter, then the G1 will work just fine, mainly if you haven’t used any Contax previously. It wouldn’t be good to drop more than $1500 for a camera and a single lens to realize that a rangefinder isn’t for you or that you don’t like what Contax offers. Keep in mind that we are talking about cameras over 25 years old, and the supply is slowly diminishing. So take that into consideration when you are deciding between these two cameras.

Read More: Contax T2 vs T3 Contax T2 vs G2

Contax T2 vs Yashica T4

Contax T2 vs Leica Minilux

Contax T2 vs TVS

Contax TVS vs TVSii

The best places to develop film in NYC

• About Author
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Dzvonko Petrovski

I'm a photographer who loves challenging and experimental photography and loves sharing my knowledge about it.

Latest posts from Dzvonko Petrovski

• 35mm vs 50mm Lens (REAL-WORLD Test) - January 2, 2024
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• Yashica T4 Review: Does It Stand Out? - February 7, 2024

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Last Updated on 9th October 2022 by Tim Daniels

Moscow Metro – Part 2

Have you been to Moscow ? In all seriousness, they have the prettiest metro stations I have ever seen and I still can’t believe how immaculate and lovely every station was. There are several different stations pictured below and this is the second of several posts where I will show you the beauty of the Moscow Metro. Did you see part 1 ?  There really isn’t much to say because I think the pictures speak for themselves. I have so many more pictures to share with you!

Have you ever been to Moscow? Is it someplace you have thought about visiting?

She speaks fluent English, French and Spanish, and works for a major airline. And guess what? She’s also a licensed elementary teacher and has an MBA.

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This is the train STATION?? Oh my god… So gorgeous. Moscow has never even crossed my mind as a possible travel destination but this is gorgeous…Hmmm… LOL

I know, right? We spent several hours in the metro, just marveling at the beauty of each one. Thanks for stopping by!

Trains Moscow to Elektrostal: Times, Prices and Tickets

• Train Times
• Seasonality
• Accommodations

Moscow to Elektrostal by train

The journey from Moscow to Elektrostal by train is 32.44 mi and takes 2 hr 7 min. There are 71 connections per day, with the first departure at 12:15 AM and the last at 11:46 PM. It is possible to travel from Moscow to Elektrostal by train for as little as or as much as . The best price for this journey is .

Get from Moscow to Elektrostal with Virail

Virail's search tool will provide you with the options you need when you want to go from Moscow to Elektrostal. All you need to do is enter the dates of your planned journey, and let us take care of everything else. Our engine does the hard work, searching through thousands of routes offered by our trusted travel partners to show you options for traveling by train, bus, plane, or carpool. You can filter the results to suit your needs. There are a number of filtering options, including price, one-way or round trip, departure or arrival time, duration of journey, or number of connections. Soon you'll find the best choice for your journey. When you're ready, Virail will transfer you to the provider's website to complete the booking. No matter where you're going, get there with Virail.

How can I find the cheapest train tickets to get from Moscow to Elektrostal?

Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. You can find train tickets for prices as low as , but it may require some flexibility with your travel plans. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets. Unfortunately, no price was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find price results. Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets.

How long does it take to get from Moscow to Elektrostal by train?

The journey between Moscow and Elektrostal by train is approximately 32.44 mi. It will take you more or less 2 hr 7 min to complete this journey. This average figure does not take into account any delays that might arise on your route in exceptional circumstances. If you are planning to make a connection or operating on a tight schedule, give yourself plenty of time. The distance between Moscow and Elektrostal is around 32.44 mi. Depending on the exact route and provider you travel with, your journey time can vary. On average, this journey will take approximately 2 hr 7 min. However, the fastest routes between Moscow and Elektrostal take 1 hr 3 min. If a fast journey is a priority for you when traveling, look out for express services that may get you there faster. Some flexibility may be necessary when booking. Often, these services only leave at particular times of day - or even on certain days of the week. You may also find a faster journey by taking an indirect route and connecting in another station along the way.

How many journeys from Moscow to Elektrostal are there every day?

On average, there are 71 daily departures from Moscow to Elektrostal. However, there may be more or less on different days. Providers' timetables can change on certain days of the week or public holidays, and many also vary at particular times of year. Some providers change their schedules during the summer season, for example. At very busy times, there may be up to departures each day. The providers that travel along this route include , and each operates according to their own specific schedules. As a traveler, you may prefer a direct journey, or you may not mind making changes and connections. If you have heavy suitcases, a direct journey could be best; otherwise, you might be able to save money and enjoy more flexibility by making a change along the way. Every day, there are an average of 18 departures from Moscow which travel directly to Elektrostal. There are 53 journeys with one change or more. Unfortunately, no connection was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find connections.

Book in advance and save

If you're looking for the best deal for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal, booking train tickets in advance is a great way to save money, but keep in mind that advance tickets are usually not available until 3 months before your travel date.

Stay flexible with your travel time and explore off-peak journeys

Planning your trips around off-peak travel times not only means that you'll be able to avoid the crowds, but can also end up saving you money. Being flexible with your schedule and considering alternative routes or times will significantly impact the amount of money you spend on getting from Moscow to Elektrostal.

Always check special offers

Checking on the latest deals can help save a lot of money, making it worth taking the time to browse and compare prices. So make sure you get the best deal on your ticket and take advantage of special fares for children, youth and seniors as well as discounts for groups.

Unlock the potential of slower trains or connecting trains

If you're planning a trip with some flexible time, why not opt for the scenic route? Taking slower trains or connecting trains that make more stops may save you money on your ticket – definitely worth considering if it fits in your schedule.

Best time to book cheap train tickets from Moscow to Elektrostal

The cheapest Moscow - Elektrostal train tickets can be found for as low as $35.01 if you’re lucky, or $54.00 on average. The most expensive ticket can cost as much as $77.49.

Find the best day to travel to Elektrostal by train

When travelling to Elektrostal by train, if you want to avoid crowds you can check how frequently our customers are travelling in the next 30-days using the graph below. On average, the peak hours to travel are between 6:30am and 9am in the morning, or between 4pm and 7pm in the evening. Please keep this in mind when travelling to your point of departure as you may need some extra time to arrive, particularly in big cities!

Moscow to Elektrostal CO2 Emissions by Train

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Claudia Looi

Touring the Top 10 Moscow Metro Stations

By Claudia Looi 2 Comments

Komsomolskaya metro station looks like a museum. It has vaulted ceilings and baroque decor.

Hidden underground, in the heart of Moscow, are historical and architectural treasures of Russia. These are Soviet-era creations – the metro stations of Moscow.

Our guide Maria introduced these elaborate metro stations as “the palaces for the people.” Built between 1937 and 1955, each station holds its own history and stories. Stalin had the idea of building beautiful underground spaces that the masses could enjoy. They would look like museums, art centers, concert halls, palaces and churches. Each would have a different theme. None would be alike.

The two-hour private tour was with a former Intourist tour guide named Maria. Maria lived in Moscow all her life and through the communist era of 60s to 90s. She has been a tour guide for more than 30 years. Being in her 60s, she moved rather quickly for her age. We traveled and crammed with Maria and other Muscovites on the metro to visit 10 different metro stations.

Arrow showing the direction of metro line 1 and 2

Moscow subways are very clean

To Maria, every street, metro and building told a story. I couldn’t keep up with her stories. I don’t remember most of what she said because I was just thrilled being in Moscow.   Added to that, she spilled out so many Russian words and names, which to one who can’t read Cyrillic, sounded so foreign and could be easily forgotten.

The metro tour was the first part of our all day tour of Moscow with Maria. Here are the stations we visited:

1. Komsomolskaya Metro Station  is the most beautiful of them all. Painted yellow and decorated with chandeliers, gold leaves and semi precious stones, the station looks like a stately museum. And possibly decorated like a palace. I saw Komsomolskaya first, before the rest of the stations upon arrival in Moscow by train from St. Petersburg.

2. Revolution Square Metro Station (Ploshchad Revolyutsii) has marble arches and 72 bronze sculptures designed by Alexey Dushkin. The marble arches are flanked by the bronze sculptures. If you look closely you will see passersby touching the bronze dog's nose. Legend has it that good luck comes to those who touch the dog's nose.

Touch the dog's nose for good luck. At the Revolution Square station

Revolution Square Metro Station

3. Arbatskaya Metro Station served as a shelter during the Soviet-era. It is one of the largest and the deepest metro stations in Moscow.

Arbatskaya Metro Station

4. Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Metro Station was built in 1935 and named after the Russian State Library. It is located near the library and has a big mosaic portrait of Lenin and yellow ceramic tiles on the track walls.

Lenin's portrait at the Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Metro Station

5. Kievskaya Metro Station was one of the first to be completed in Moscow. Named after the capital city of Ukraine by Kiev-born, Nikita Khruschev, Stalin's successor.

Kievskaya Metro Station

6. Novoslobodskaya Metro Station  was built in 1952. It has 32 stained glass murals with brass borders.

Novoslobodskaya metro station

7. Kurskaya Metro Station was one of the first few to be built in Moscow in 1938. It has ceiling panels and artwork showing Soviet leadership, Soviet lifestyle and political power. It has a dome with patriotic slogans decorated with red stars representing the Soviet's World War II Hall of Fame. Kurskaya Metro Station is a must-visit station in Moscow.

Ceiling panel and artworks at Kurskaya Metro Station

8. Mayakovskaya Metro Station built in 1938. It was named after Russian poet Vladmir Mayakovsky. This is one of the most beautiful metro stations in the world with 34 mosaics painted by Alexander Deyneka.

Mayakovskaya station

One of the over 30 ceiling mosaics in Mayakovskaya metro station

9. Belorusskaya Metro Station is named after the people of Belarus. In the picture below, there are statues of 3 members of the Partisan Resistance in Belarus during World War II. The statues were sculpted by Sergei Orlov, S. Rabinovich and I. Slonim.

10. Teatralnaya Metro Station (Theatre Metro Station) is located near the Bolshoi Theatre.

Teatralnaya Metro Station decorated with porcelain figures .

Taking the metro's escalator at the end of the tour with Maria the tour guide.

Have you visited the Moscow Metro? Leave your comment below.

January 15, 2017 at 8:17 am

An excellent read! Thanks for much for sharing the Russian metro system with us. We're heading to Moscow in April and exploring the metro stations were on our list and after reading your post, I'm even more excited to go visit them. Thanks again 🙂

December 6, 2017 at 10:45 pm

Hi, do you remember which tour company you contacted for this tour?

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