rick steves madrid walking tour

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Madrid City Walk

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Feeling the Pulse of a Great City

Walking down Madrid’s delightful pedestrian boulevard enjoying the paseo with my local guide, Nygil Murrel , I learn some fun insights about Spain’s capital city.

This is Day 9 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com .

One Reply to “Feeling the Pulse of a Great City”

Rick, I always miss you by a couple of weeks. One day I expect to bump into you on the street!

Comments are closed.

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Download the Rick Steves walking tour! - Puerta del Sol

• Europe    
• Spain    
• Community of Madrid    
• Madrid    
• Madrid - Things to Do    
• Puerta del Sol

Download the Rick Steves walking tour!

If you want to get a real feel for Madrid, download the Rick Steves walking tour podcast (and map) from Apple Podcast and make your way to to Puerta del Sol. It takes about an hour to complete the walk but will give you a much better introduction to Madrid than any open top bus tour.

Too crowded reminded of Times Square. Saw a demonstration it simply made me uncomfortable 😣 The train station meets several trains so if it wasn’t for it I can do without puerta del sol.

Whilst this is a square with the usual shops etc in the locality, and full of people, it does not have its own identity. In view of the popularity of the place, take care with your belongings. There are street entertainers in evidence. You do not need a great deal of time to visit this square, in fact, you are more than likely just to be passing through and not really miss anything.

Famous and popular. You might want to visit it midday on a weekday. Evenings and weekends it's a mobbed bedlam. It's full of energy with street entertainers but usually packed with people . . . like Times Square, maybe worse.

Really no reason to visit Puerta del Sol other than passing through whilst either shopping or on the way to visit another site. The area seems to be riddled with individuals (who are part of groups) watching tourists and their belongings in preparation for theft. During the evenings the area becomes infested with Africans selling counterfeit products which you should avoid at all costs. Do not buy from these street sellers. They do not help the Spanish economy. Keep your wits about you whilst here.

As an attraction the square is just like any other. However, it has a huge array of shops nearby and attracts most visitors because of the El Oso y el Madron monument.

Disobeying Rick Steves: Alternative Itinerary for Three Days in Madrid

How can you get the most out of your trip if you’ve only got 3 days in Madrid? Well, you can start by consulting the Rick Steves Madrid travel guide. But if you only follow his advice for top sites, you will miss out on an opportunity to engage deeper with the city. So feel free to disobey Rick Steves and have a great time doing it.

Don’t get me wrong, I like Rick Steves. I occasionally listen to his podcast for travel inspiration and I find his Spain guide books to be practical, budget friendly and easy to follow. But that doesn’t mean that he and I always agree. I’m a well-traveled woman who knows what I like and after having visited thirty nine countries on five continents, I’ve learned the hard way that sometimes a city’s “must see sights” are not for me.

This itinerary will give you suggestions for what to do in Madrid for three days.  It incorporates some of Rick’s top suggestions, but it also includes some quirkier sites, cool neighborhoods and walking tours that will get you deeper into the city.

Rick Steves on Madrid

The Rick Steves’ Madrid guidebook  includes suggested itineraries, walking tours, easy to read maps and other useful suggestions. They also rank the tourist sites according to a prioritized system: three triangles represent a must do, two are kinda-do, one is a maybe and then there are the untriangled also-rans. You can find information in the “At a Glance” section of the Rick Steves Madrid site. But in short:

▲▲▲ suggestions: the Royal Palace, Prado Museum, Reina Sophia museum and the Paseo (evening strolling)

▲▲ suggestions: Puerta del Sol square, Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, National Archaeological Museum, Bullfighting, Flamenco, Plaza Mayor

No Thanks Rick, I’ll Pass on That

There are a few things on Rick’s list that I would suggest giving a pass. Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor are off-putting because of the tourist hordes and the incongruous photo opps with unlicensed Disney characters. It is oddly reminiscent of what I don’t like about Times Square in NYC. Do they still do bullfights anymore? And do you really want to see one? I have and it’s not for the faint of heart…pass. And while Flamenco was once a national art form, if that means going to one of those overpriced tourist shows with a rubber chicken dinner then give it a pass (unless you do the show at Teatro Alfil , which has a very modern, urban vibe.)

All that said, go ahead and buy the Rick Steves’  guide to Madrid , the maps and walking tour information is very useful.

Your Three Days in Madrid

The following itinerary for three days in Madrid keeps some of the suggestions from the Rick Steves Madrid guide but it also adds some additional suggestions. It has been organized around a particular neighborhood and set of sites. But, central Madrid is very easy to navigate so feel free to mix and match as you wish.

If you have 4-5 days to spend in Madrid, consider taking one of these day trips by train . Some are as close as :30 minutes and none are further than two hours and all have cool Spanish culture and history.

Cool Hotel Options in Madrid

For a large European city, Madrid hotels are surprisingly affordable.

• Affordable Large Room : We stayed at the Lusso Infantas and loved the large room and modest price. Check reviews or book at Booking.com .
• Luxury with Views and a Pool: The Iberostar Las Letras is located right on the Gran Via. They have nice, spacious rooms, a rooftop bar, a pool and fantastic breakfast. Check reviews or book at Booking.com .
• Centrally Located and Historic : The Only You Boutique hotel is located hear the La Justicia neighborhood in a 19th century restored mansion. “…the location is perfect for Plaza Major, good restaurants and the galleries”. Check reviews or book at Booking.com .
• Contemporary Boutique : The Airtrip hotel is a small boutique hotel located an easy walk to the Atocha train station. “Great breakfast which is included, contemporary, clean, brilliantly renovated small boutique hotel.” Check reviews or book at Booking.com .

 Day 1 in Madrid

Morning: royal palace & museo cerralbo.

Day one is centered around the western part of the city. Start with Rick’s recommendation to visit the Royal Palace. The Palace is the historical home for the royal family and it is still their official residence. You can spend several hours on a self-guided tour of the palace’s ornately furnished 3,000 rooms. Get there right at 10am to avoid the worst of the crowds.

After the palace, walk north two blocks to the Museo Cerralbo. Carrie from Two Small Potatoes recommends the Cerralbo Museum. She says that “even non-museum fans will be entertained at the Cerralbo Museum, with its eclectic mix of dainty Murano glass and barbaric medieval weapons”. It’s definitely one of the more offbeat museums in Madrid.

Afternoon: Lunch, Parque del Oeste, Shopping on Gran Via

Grab some lunch near Calle Princesa and then head into the nearby Parque del Oeste. There, you can find the Temple of Debod (which Marta from Learning Escapes also recommends as  great for kids ) and the Rosaleda rose garden. After the park, you can work your way east back to your hotel along the Gran Via shopping district.

Evening: La Latina & Cava Baja

In the evening, head into the La Latina neighborhood for tapas. The Cava Baja street is just a few blocks south and east of the palace. The three block stretch is stuffed with tapas bars and restaurants. You can make an evening of wandering the street, stuffing yourself with various wines and nibbles. Alternatively, if you have a free midday sometime during your three days in Madrid, you can also take a daytime walking tour of La Latina .

Day 2 in Madrid

Morning: prado.

Spend the morning at Rick Steve’s top triangle and visit the Prado. It’s Madrid’s premier museum and is loaded with masterpieces by Diego Velázquez, Francisco de Goya, El Greco, Hieronymus Bosch, Albrecht Dürer, and others. To avoid lines, get to the museum just before the 10am opening time. Many people just focus on seeing the top 10, but the museum holds thousands of works so go past the top 10 and spend time exploring the rest of the collection.

Afternoon: Retiro Park

Grab lunch to-go and head into Retiro Park. Retiro is a large, well tended city park just east of museum row. The park has a very peaceful ambiance and you can easily find a shady bench to rest from your tromp around the museum. After you eat, head over to the Crystal Palace. The palace gets no triangles from Rick Steves, but I think it’s enchanting. It’s a Victorian glass wonder in the midst of the park. They have created a peaceful atmosphere and offer bentwood rockers and reading material to encourage quiet contemplation. After the Crystal Palace you can also rent a rowboat and go out on the little Retiro lake or visit the nearby Botanical Garden.

Evening: Ciculo de Bellas Artes, tapas in Justicia

The  Circulo  is located just a block from the Plaza Cibeles. It offers photography, art and cinema exhibitions. They have a rooftop deck that is the perfect place to grab a drink and watch the sun setting over the city. The building isn’t very tall, but then Madrid isn’t a tall city, so you could easily see the whole southwestern part of the city spread before you as the sun goes down. It is a great way to start off an evening of strolling and tapas eating.

Tapas are not just an alternative to dinner, it’s an art form which you can perfect through repetition. So even if you eat tapas on night 1 in La Latina, you should do it again on night 2 in the La Justicia/Chueca neighborhood. I recommend starting at the Vinoteca Vides, which has an extensive wine menu and 300(!) kinds of cheese. Then just roam from there.

(Some of the links below are affiliate links. This means that if you chose to purchase, I’ll get a small commission.)  

Day 3 in Madrid

Morning: reina sophia.

Rick and I agree that your Madrid itinerary should include the Reina Sophia. It’s a fabulous modern art museum, famous for housing the Guernica by Picasso. I saw the painting while visiting Madrid in the ’80s and it had a profound affect on my appreciation of all modern art. The painting still impresses and the broader exhibition in the Reina Sophia includes pre and post studies of the subject, artifacts related to the Guernica’s traveling exhibitions and other paintings from the Paris World Fair during which the painting was unveiled. The rest of the museum is well organized and well worth a long visit. If you have a free evening on Monday or Wednesday-Saturday, you can re-arrange the itinerary and go for free between 7-9pm.

After the museum, wander north toward Calle de Principe and find a place for lunch among the alleyways and cobbled streets.

Afternoon: Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum

The Thyssen is a well curated, medium-sized private museum that houses an impressive collection of impressionism and post-impressionism. Rick only gave it two triangles but I give it three for the thoughtful collection and easy layout of the museum.

After the Thyssen, wade back into the neighborhood and find a coffeeshop for pastries or churros and chocolate. All of Spain has a very active cafe culture and Madrid is no exception. Walk for two blocks and you’ll happen upon a cafe serving strong coffee and excellent pastry. There are a lot of cafes serving churros and chocolate on the Plaza Santa Ana and tons more along the nearby Calle de la Huerta.

But if four museums is too much for you, then swap out some of the time and take a street art tour in the Lavapies neighborhood. It’s a working class neighborhood with a very multi-culti ethic and lots of local businesses. Cool Tours Spain runs several different street art tours run by people who are very familiar with Madrid’s street art scene.

Evening: Tapas and Wine Walking Tour

Who says you can’t eat tapas for three night running? There are a number of 3-4 hour evening tours which will introduce you to the tapas scene in a specific neighborhood. Doing it as a tour allows you to explore places that you might not have otherwise found on your own.

• This tour covers four bars in and around Santa Ana plaza. Check out the itinerary or book here .
• This tour meets at the Plaza de la Independencia and takes you to several wine bars and then ends at a gastropub for dinner. Check out the itinerary or book here .
• This one includes 4-5 stops in the Opera area. Check out the itinerary or book here .

If you have an extra day, consider this day trip to Sevovia

There is no shortage of great things to do in Madrid. So take my advice, and Ricks’s and create your own itinerary of triangles. Buen Viaje!

Explore More of Spain

• Here are 7 reasons why you should put Cádiz on your itinerary , you can even do it as a day trip from Seville .
• Top things to do in Burgos .
• If you are thinking about doing the Camino de Santiago, here is our first timer’s guide .

Micheal Plocek

Monday 10th of September 2018

Hi! Awesome post! Thanks for this information, it will surely help me.

Monday 20th of August 2018

Interesting, it never occurred to me to disobey Rick! What a rebel you are. We're going to Spain next month and I heard the museo cerralbo is more of a must see than the palace. Any opinions?

Carol Guttery

Tuesday 21st of August 2018

I AM a rebel.

Dee O'Connor

Wednesday 19th of April 2017

My favorite museum in Madrid is Museo Sorolla. It is in the home of the artist, Joaquin Sorolla. On Paseo del General Martinez Campos 37. Can't wait to return!

Monday 11th of February 2019

The Sorolla Museum is amazing. I first visited in 1975 when I was studying in Spain, and returned in 2017. The house itself (and the gardens) is a glimpse into the artist’s life, and is like an oasis in the city. My husband was blown away. Off the beaten path, but well worth the time and effort.

Two Small Potatoes

Tuesday 11th of October 2016

I could definitely go for some churros and chocolate right about now!

Sunday 28th of September 2014

We arrive in Madrid manana so appreciate the Rick Steves update. Cafes sound great! And will definitely go to Reina Sophia. S Already started our course in Tapas in Barcelona. Yum. Gracias for all.

• Tour Account ›
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• Private guide/sma...

Private guide/small tour for individual traveler (Madrid) ?

Greetings, I'm wondering about small non-touristy walking tours in Madrid. I'm an individual traveler, and 180 euros etc feels somewhat steep. Any experiences with this, or knowledge of individual guides willing to work w joining up individual travels?

This will be for trip early October. Hoping for nothing too touristy. -- Gracias in advance

I know Nygil Murrell, on of Rick Steve's tour guides for Spain, does walking tours of Madrid on his own too. He has a lot of knowledge plus is a foodie and wine guy. Also he is really nice!! I would recommend him. Here is a link: http://www.madridtandt.com/about/

Thank you, I submitted the contact form, but got a message that they weren't providing tours at present time

This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity.

Rick Steves' Advice For How Visitors Can Help Prevent Europe From Becoming 'Anti-Tourist'

W e hear quite a bit about how we should avoid contributing to overtourism , especially as tourist numbers climb back to or even surpass pre-COVID levels. Social media is thought to be a contributor as the most picturesque and popular destinations frequent our news feeds. Not only do tourists in such large amounts harm the environment, but locals in places like Venice, Italy and Barcelona, Spain have gone so far as to limit tour group sizes or impose tourism taxes. Some locals have even begun to resent tourists altogether. So how do we assuage wanderlust without contributing to the problem?

European travel expert Rick Steves has made a career out of helping people travel to beautiful destinations. While he has tips for visiting popular places, like buying advance tickets to skip the line, he also emphasizes seeking out hidden gems -- of which there are plenty across Europe. "Remember, ninety percent of Europe has no crowd problems," he states on his website . Regardless of where you go, Steves encourages travelers to be considerate too.

Read more: Anthony Bourdain's Perfect Advice For Spotting The Best Local Places To Eat

Help Ease Crowds By Booking Tickets For Major Attractions In Advance

Places that require ticketed admission like museums or castles can often be purchased ahead of your trip. This not only means that you might be able to skip lines, but it also helps tourist attractions manage their numbers, especially if the attraction limits how many people can come in each day. Additionally, some places only offer admission in the form of guided tours. Knowing these details when building the perfect Europe travel itinerary  will make your visit easier on local staff.

While bucket list destinations like the Colosseum or the Eiffel Tower are popular for a reason, Rick Steves wants travelers to seek under-the-radar experiences. This relates to his emphasis on going where locals go. "For every Anne Frank House, there's usually a Dutch Resistance Museum a few blocks away — less trendy, never crowded, and often actually offering a richer travel experience," he explains on his website. Finding places to visit or eating at restaurants off the beaten path can also mean supporting locals so that more can benefit from tourism money.

Learn Some Useful Local Phrases To Help Communicate

Rick Steves' next tip to keep Europe welcoming to tourists is to be considerate no matter where you go. Remember that you are a guest in their home. Maintaining a guest mindset means keeping cities and landscapes clean. Overtourism is not only an upsetting travel nuisance for locals, but also for the nature locals likely want to preserve. Steves sticks to the motto: "If you want to be warmly welcomed, be deserving of a warm welcome."

Another aspect of being considerate in a foreign country is knowing helpful words and phrases in the common languages spoken in your destination. This is not to say that you must become fluent before visiting, but knowing some basic things shows locals that you are not trying to make them adapt to your language or make your interaction cumbersome. "I get fine treatment everywhere in France just by using the simplest of French pleasantries," Steves explains . "If you begin every encounter with 'bonjour' or 's'il vous plaît,' and end it with 'merci' and au 'revoir,' you'll earn a smile."

Read the original article on Explore .