vintage trek mountain bike

Vintage Trek Catalogs

Table of Contents

Here you can find all the Trek catalogs from 1976 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can find them further in the article.

Trek Catalogs

• Trek Catalog 1976
• Trek Catalog 1977
• Trek Catalog 1978
• Trek Catalog 1979
• Trek Catalog 1980
• Trek Catalog 1981
• Trek Catalog 1982
• Trek Catalog 1983-1
• Trek Catalog 1983-2
• Trek Catalog 1984
• Trek Catalog 1985All-Terrain
• Trek Catalog 1985Trek2000
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekRacing
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekSport
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekTouring
• Trek Catalog 1986
• Trek Catalog 1987
• Trek Catalog 1988
• Trek Catalog 1989
• Trek Catalog 1990
• Trek Catalog 1991
• Trek Catalog 1992
• Trek Catalog 1993
• Trek Catalog 1994
• Trek Catalog 1995
• Trek Catalog 1996
• Trek Catalog 1997
• Trek Catalog 1998
• Trek Catalog 1999

History and Iconic Models

Trek started out in 1975 by providing only frames. In 1976 they would supply entire bicycles.

For many people Trek is most famous for sponsoring Lance Armstrong’s U.S. Postal team during the late 90’s up to his retirement.

But Trek already pioneered the use of carbon fiber in 1989 with the Trek 5000.

It would result in the short-lived but daring design of the Y-Foil, introduced in 1998. One of the few bikes that is designated with something more than just a number.

They were also early adopters of the mountain bike craze, with the Trek 850 launched in 1983.

Their early foray in using carbon fiber would be later used with the introduction of the iconic Y33 and Y22 models. Mountain bikes with a monocoque carbon fiber frame. Although it used the suspension technique URT ( unified rear triangle ) which would turn out to be rubbish, the original design was considered iconic.

If you’re interested in learning more about vintage Trek bicycles, please visit vintage-trek.com .

Trek Models

Mountain bike, you might also like.

Vintage GT Catalogs

Here you can find a selection of GT catalogs from 1990 up to 1998. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year,

Vintage Kona Catalogs

Here you can find all the Kona catalogs from 1989 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can

Vintage Giant Catalogs

Unfortunately I was only able to find a couple of Giant catalogs. Although it’s a huge bicycle brand, finding the Giant catalogs proved to be

Vintage Cannondale Catalogs

Here you can find all the Cannondale catalogs from 1983 up to 1999.  If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you

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Trek 830 Restoration (Antelope)

Vintage Trek 830 Restoration: I found this bike for $30 and gave it new life for rides around town. This was my experience bringing it back to life.

My wife hasn’t had a bike in years, but when I found this dirty Trek 830 Antelope for sale on offer up, I picked it up for $30!! It felt like the deal of a lifetime. There’s tons of life still in this bike.

How to find vintage mountain bikes to fix up?

There seems to be three main places to look for vintage mountain bikes. Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace and OfferUp. The recent 90s MTB renaissance has made the bikes slightly more in demand so people who know this have them priced higher.

Here’s my thoughts on finding one at a great price. Craigslist seems to have the most bikes, but often priced higher. OfferUp has lower prices, but you have to search longer. Also, try searching for your “desired brand + mountain bike” vs searching for the model. People have these sitting around, but with less knowledge probably don’t list the bike as “1992 trek 930”.

This is my second vintage trek project. Previously I worked on a 1990 Trek 930 Singletrack restoration that I still ride a ton. That project is over here.

Trek 830 Deal of a Lifetime?

Looking for a vintage Trek 830 restoration project, I would have been happy finding any bike from 800 to 900. When I saw this 830 online for $30, I knew I need it to get it. It was listed as “Trek Mountain Bike” 15 years old. LOL. It’s probably 30 years old and has been sitting in the garage for 15 years. The condition almost didn’t matter. But I learned an important lesson.

When I arrived at the house, I lost focus. The house was a beautiful multi-million dollar place. The bike was kept in the garage. I assumed this bike had been taken care of a bit. Wrong. And lesson learned. Never assume condition.

At some point, something fell and hit the top tube. This bent the rear dropouts and put the rear wheel out of alignment. The person selling this bike knew something wasn’t right with the bike because the shifting wasn’t working, but I didn’t ask questions because the deal seemed good at any price. It turned out the shifter was blown, but there were also other issues to fix up. Thankfully the frame is still straight minus the small dent in the top tube which would be hard to see if you weren’t looking. Lesson learned. I wouldn’t resell this bike without disclosing that information.

Trek 830 Clean Up

The paint underlying this bike was actually pretty nice. That red really pops!! It was under a film of dust that had been hardening for decades. And the whole bike smelled like smoke! I spent hours carefully scrubbing with soap and water trying to only take off the dust and remnants of duct tape that were hardened to the frame.

It came out looking great!!

Trek 830 Components Going Forward

First steps in vintage Trek 830 restoration project: Remove everything. Clean it all and then make decisions. What to let go of? What to keep?

New Components Added

(Affiliate Links below – these are the actual parts that I purchased for this project)

Brake Levers . These are actually pretty nice considering how cheap they are. I don’t expect this bike to get ridden hard, so these will be perfect.

Brooks B67 Saddle . The Brooks B67saddle upgrade really was for me (I didn’t tell my wife this though). I probably could have added much cheaper seat and my wife would not have cared, but I was interested in how this seat would work with the springs and I figured if she didn’t like it, I would be able to add this to a future bike I work on. The result. It’s pretty awesome. The springs are loaded strong and it’s not like a typical beach cruiser seat that bounces with you, but there is a little give there.

Cruiser style handlebars. I really wanted handlebars that would put my wife in a comfortable position and I didn’t want to replace the stem because that opens up a whole new level of stuff to buy. These handlebars had a lot of sweep and rise.

7 speed shifter . The right shifter was torched on the original bike. AND the shifters on this bike were connected to the brake levers. At the end of the day, I decided to add new levers and shifters. Personally, I like friction shifters and had a 3x front shifter in my parts bin. This was a decent Shimano shifter that I found and it works great for the job.

Crankset from leftover from my Trek 950

RaceFace Grips . I love these so I added them here. They feel amazing.

Housing and Cables . The original cables were rusted out and adding new cables and housing makes the bike look sharp and clean. Plus, it’s actually not that expensive to add this. Also, I love the process of rebuilding the bike with new cables.

New 7 Speed Chain . This is an off brand chain. It’s cheaper and will do the job for this bike. If I was Bikepacking on this, I would pay up for a better one.

We took the bikes out on our anniversary and rode around town. It was so much fun. My wife loved the bike and now we also ride around the neighborhood with the kids.

The Definitive Guide to Sizing a Vintage Mountain Bike

• 5 Min To Read
• 03 Jul, 2023

An old piece of vintage mountain biking equipment is a great addition to your collection. Bike sizing has changed over the years, so the 1915s frame design is quite different than the 2000s.

Unfortunately, the current mountain bike sizing charts cannot be used to measure vintage bikes. This is especially true if you want to be exact. However, this is not the end. If your bike is vintage, you can still use the vintage measurement process and compare it with the current size chart.

Vintage Mountain Bike

Let’s begin with a brief overview of vintage bikes. Vintage bikes are a collection of old bikes that dates back to before and after 1915. Vintage mountain bikes are defined by their age in the mid-1980s.

The vintage bikes were not designed to be used on the mountain, but only for road riding.

Vintage Mountain Bike Sizing?

How can you comprehend the bike’s size, which is not consistent with the current mountain bike sizing standards.

Let’s take a look at the different sizing methods our counterparts have come to trust over the years.

Method 1: Using the Inseam Measurement

Although the inseam measurement can be used to date the mountain bike size, it is not the same as the vintage mountain bike size.

How can you ensure the correct inseam length? Stand with your legs apart at a maximum 8 inches.

Next, measure the length of the tape starting at your crotch. Make sure it is the topmost portion of your legs, not your pants. The tape measure should be lowered until it touches the ground.

If it is too difficult to measure yourself accurately, a partner can help.

If you are unsure about your crotch or are unsure about your pants, you could place a book between your legs and feel the top of your pants. Next, measure from the ground to where the book ends.

Your inseam measurement will determine the right size vintage bike. Instead of multiplying this by 0.66, as with current mountain bike sizes, subtract 14 from your results. Your answer should give you the correct size mountain bike that you should compare with vintage bikes.

Method 2: Stand Over Method

If you’re lucky enough to buy the bike in a store you can use the stand-over method. This is when you stand on the bike astride and get ready to go for a ride. However, your legs are on the ground.

Your crotch should be at least an inch from the top tube to achieve the perfect size bike. However, your mountain trails will determine the exact spacing.

For example, if there are more people riding in downhill conditions, spacing can be as high as 7 inches. For cross-country trips, you will need to space your riders four inches apart.

Why is the spacing important? If you’re standing or trying to adjust your seat, the spacing will protect your crotch. The more difficult the situation, the greater the space should be.

Method 3: The Seat Tube Sizing

This is the most common method of sizing bikes, including mountain bikes. To find the best fit, you will need to measure your height and inseam.

The seat tube measurement begins at the bottom of your seat post and continues down to the section where the pedals align.

This measurement will give the bike measurement. You can also use your height to determine your best bike.

These are the top three ways to get the right mountain bike size. These methods can all be used simultaneously to achieve the right mountain bike sizing.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What size vintage frame do i need.

It would be helpful to have a vintage bike frame that is appropriate for your height and length. This will depend on what type of vintage bike that you are looking for. Is it a mountain bike or a road bike? You can use the above three methods to build mountain bikes.

You can use the same methods as above to purchase a roadbike. However, there may be slight variations. If you measure your inseam, you will notice a smaller spacing between the top tube (and the crotch)

Does it matter if my bike frame is too big?

Yes. You will have to strain to pedal if your bike frame is too large. You will not be able to pedal at the speed your large frame allows.

Should I get a medium or large mountain bike?

The size you need will depend on your height. Mountain bikes are more efficient in smaller frames than road bikes. Make sure to measure your frame first.

The large mountain bike is best for tall people. Medium-sized people prefer small mountain bikes. It all depends on your measurements and the bike.

What size mountain bike should I get for my height?

The smallest size is XXL if your height ranges between 4?10 ft and 5 ft. The size ranges can take up to three inches to reach the next size. The XXL mountain bikes are comfortable for riders between 6?4 and 6?6 feet.

Wrapping Up

Although owning a vintage bicycle can boost your self-esteem and accomplishments in the world of cycling, most people buy them for their fun. They are heavier than modern mountain bikes and therefore more difficult to pedal. A new bike will be more suitable for you if you are looking to race.

For a comfortable and fit bike, it is important to measure your vintage mountain bike. It should be your first consideration before you rush to buy the bike.

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Here are the best electric bikes you can buy at every price level in April 2024

I’ve spent countless hours here at Electrek doing detailed hands-on testing of hundreds of electric bikes. Through thousands of miles of riding, I’ve learned these e-bikes inside and out, top to bottom and front to back. That dedication to real-world e-bike testing has helped me find the best electric bicycles on the market for just about any budget.

Below are some of the top e-bikes I’ve hand-tested for every price range, current as of April 2024. Spring is finally upon us (at least, here in the Northern Hemisphere) and riding season is gearing up! After an ultra-competitive e-bike selling year in 2023, we’re still seeing some great sales into early 2024. So check out the awesome e-bikes below, any one of which could become your next electric bike.

Table of contents

Best electric bikes under $1,000, lectric one, best electric bikes from $2,000 to $3,500, best electric bikes from $3,500 to $5,000.

The sub-$1,000 electric bike category is critical for a few reasons.

First, it’s pretty hard to produce a quality e-bike and sell it for under $1k. Most of the options in this price category make too many sacrifices in quality or longevity to earn a spot on this list as one of “the best”.

Second, many newcomers to the e-bike industry just aren’t prepared to drop several thousand dollars on a brand-new concept, making this price range critical for many first-time e-bike shoppers.

Fortunately, we’ve found some excellent options for cheap electric bikes that can still save you some serious dough.

Lectric XP LITE

The Lectric XP LITE is likely the latest king of bang-for-your-buck electric bikes.

For years, the $999 Lectric XP 3.0 and its previous 1.0 predecessor reigned supreme in the budget electric bike category. That’s still a great bike, and we’ll discuss it next, but the more affordable $799 Lectric XP LITE is an even more wallet-friendly electric bike.

That new e-bike offers some great riding at under 800 bucks.

It’s a throttle-enabled Class 2 folding electric bike with 20″ wheels, a max speed of 20 mph (32 km/h) and a motor rated for 300W continuous and 720W peak.

It’s not going to be the strongest hill climber, but it does get going quickly on flat and modestly hilly terrain.

This is the only e-bike in this price range that I know of with a 48V electrical system. All the other budget e-bikes under $800 use a 36V system and thus suffer from weaker power.

There are some things that you give up with this model, such as that the fenders aren’t included free. But for just $799 , you’re still getting built-in lights, a hidden battery, large LCD display and a lightweight folder. Plus it comes in four color options.

There’s a lot of value there!

Lectric XP LITE quick specs

• Motor:  300W (720W peak) geared rear hub motor
• Top speed:  32 km/h (20 mph)
• Range:  Claimed up to 72 km (40 mi), but less on throttle only
• Battery:  48V 7.8 Ah (375 Wh)
• Weight : 21 kg (46 lb)
• Price :  $799  

Lectric XP 3.0

If you like the idea of a low-cost US-based company like Lectric eBikes but want something with more power than their XP LITE, consider the $999 Lectric XP 3.0 . The XP 3.0 is the newest version of America’s best-selling electric bike, and now it’s even better with hydraulic disc brakes! In my opinion, this is the current king of bang-for-your-buck electric bikes right now. It’s clear why this is the best-selling electric bike in the US.

Between the fast 28 mph speed, comfortable ride with front suspension, nimble yet thick three-inch tires, and the powerful 1,000W peak-rated motor, the bike combines high performance with an awesome price. The new version comes with a higher power motor featuring more torque, a new rear rack that can support 150 pounds (and has a passenger package option for carrying a friend), has longer travel suspension, and several other key upgrades.

There are both step-over and step-through frames available. To be honest, the frame member is low on both of them and so they’re both easy to mount, but I actually prefer the step-through. Even though low-step bikes are often considered to be “women’s bikes,” the Lectric XP 3.0 looks badass enough that no one would ever think of calling the step-through option a ladies’ bike. It’s just a more comfortable way to hop on and off.

Plus, the folding frame of the Lectric XP 3.0 means you can bring this high-value e-bike with you in a car or truck. I know several people who keep one in their RV, and I’ve even heard of folks traveling with it on their boat or light airplane.

The company also has longer-range batteries for the XP 3.0 that add 45% more range. If you’re the kind of person who likes to ride fast, that battery will help you use that power for longer rides at higher speeds.

It’s hard to find a better combination of low cost and high performance anywhere in the e-bike market right now. That’s why this is the bike I used when I worked undercover as an e-bike delivery rider .

Check out my first ride experience on the Lectric XP 3.0 here .

Lectric XP 3.0 quick specs

• Motor:  500W (850W peak) geared rear hub motor
• Top speed:  45 km/h (28 mph)
• Range:  Claimed up to 72 km (45 mi), but less if you’re heavy on the throttle
• Battery:  48V 9.6 Ah (460 Wh), or larger 14Ah battery available
• Weight : 29 kg (64 lb)
• Price :  $999  

Ride1Up Portola

When Ride1Up launched the Portola , it was pretty obvious what the game plan was: fire a shot across Lectric Ebike’s bow with a direct competitor to the Lectric XP 3.0. By all accounts, Ride1Up nailed it with an impressive competitor, the best-selling e-bike out there.

The Ride1Up Portola has a lot more going for it than just the awesome price of $995 . The bike has great performance with a maximum speed of 28 mph (45 km/h) and great components including hydraulic disc brakes, front suspension, a built-in rear rack, and a 750W motor.

There are two battery options available, either a 48V 10.4Ah or a 48V 13.4Ah, and the larger battery only costs an extra $100.

I love the sleek-looking frame and apparently, I’m not alone. Those who are on the hunt for a good-looking folding fat tire e-bike that doesn’t break the bank will likely find this to be one of the more fashionable options.

Ride1Up Portola quick specs

• Motor:  750W geared rear hub motor
• Battery:  48V 10.4 Ah (504 Wh), or larger 48V 13.4 Ah battery available
• Weight : 27.2 kg (60 lb)
• Price :  $995  

Ride1Up Roadster V2

The Ride1Up Roadster V2 seems to hop back and forth in price from $995 to $1,095 , depending on the time of year and current sale. Even when it falls just north of the $1k mark, the Roadster V2 is an awesome deal.

But you should know going in that this is very much a pedal-oriented e-bike. There’s no throttle, and the motor is only moderately powerful, peaking at 500W. That means the Roadster V2 is best for someone who enjoys cycling and simply wants an assist motor to help them go faster and farther.

The belt-drive setup, low-weight design, and fast speed of up to 24 mph make this an incredible deal.

You can check out my full, in-depth review of the Ride1Up Roadster V2 here .

Ride1up Roadster V2 quick specs:

• Motor:  500W peak (350W continuous) rear hub motor
• Top speed:  24 mph (38 km/h)
• Range:  20-35 miles (32-56 km)
• Battery:  36V 7Ah (252Wh)
• Weight : 32 lb (14.5 kg)
• Price :  $995-$1,095

Propella Mini

The $849 Propella Mini almost looks a bit odd at first glance, but the quirky proportions result in a super nimble and lightweight e-bike.

It’s not particularly fast at just 18 mph. And it’s also a pedal-assist e-bike, meaning you don’t have a throttle for the days when you feel lazy. But for anyone that doesn’t mind pedaling as long as you get a decent electric boost, the Propella Mini is a great option for you.

I love the bright blue rims, white chain, and slim black frame. The look is killer. And the bike rides both smoothly and efficiently. There’s no suspension to speak of, but the upside is there’s no suspension fork to break. The bike should last a long time with modest upkeep, and it’s a definite winner for anyone that’s low on space.

See my full review of the Propella Mini here .

Propella Mini quick specs

• Motor:  250 W (400 W peak) Bafang rear geared hub motor
• Top speed:  30 km/h (18.5 mph)
• Range:  32-56 km (20-35 mi) depending on pedal assist level
• Battery:  36V 7Ah (250 Wh)
• Price:  $849
• Weight : 14.9 kg (33 lb)

JackRabbit micro e-bike

The $999 JackRabbit OG is in one of these fuzzy areas between e-bikes and other e-rideables. In this case, it straddles the line between an electric bike and an electric scooter.

It more or less feels like an electric bike based on its ride geometry. However, the lack of pedals means that it could also be classified as an electric scooter, albeit a large-wheeled e-scooter.

But with those 20-inch wheels and bicycle seat, the JackRabbit rides much more like a small folding e-bike than an e-scooter. And its electronics match that of a light e-bike too.

The 300W motor gets the little runabout up to 20 mph (32 km/h). The small 158 Wh battery only offers around 10-12 miles (approximately 16-20 km) of range, but is also conveniently small enough to easily keep a spare battery in a cargo pocket or even a small purse.

The biggest benefit of the JackRabbit is that it is so simple that the lack of frills keeps the weight down to just 23 lb (10.5 kg)! For an e-bike, that’s almost so light that it floats.

The company also released a higher power and larger battery capacity version too , which might be good for riders that want to push harder and go farther.

See my full review of the JackRabbit here .

JackRabbit quick specs

• Motor:  300W geared rear hub motor
• Range:  20 km (12 mi)
• Bike weight:  10.5 kg (23 lb.)
• Brakes:  Rear mechanical disc brake

Best electric bikes under $2,000

Once you bump up above the $1,000 limit, you start to see many more great options for e-bikes in a wide range of categories.

From electric cargo bikes to cruisers and even electric mopeds, there’s something for everyone in this price range.

The Lectric ONE is listed in the “Best under $2,000” category, but in many ways, it’s the best in under a significantly higher dollar value. To put it into perspective, it’d be hard to buy the gearbox alone on this bike for under $2,000, and yet that’s the price tag of the entire bike! For just $1,999 , you’re getting an e-bike with components normally found on $10,000+ bikes.

The Lectric One was unveiled as a lightweight commuter e-bike designed with an ultra high-end drivetrain based around the Pinion C1.6i auto-shifting gearbox. Paired with a Gates carbon belt drive and a true 750W-rated Stealth M24 motor (with 1,300 peak watts!), the Lectric ONE hits class 3 speeds in style with some extra premium components.

Lectric ONE quick specs:

• Motor:  750W rear hub motor (1.3 kW peak)
• Battery:  48V 10.4 or 14Ah (500Wh or 672 Wh)
• Top speed:  28 mph (45 km/h)
• Range:  up to 75 miles (120 km)
• Weight:  55 lb (25 kg)
• Price:   $1,999

Lectric XPedition

We were the first to review this new model and we called it a runaway hit right from the start. With heavy-hauling weight capacity, the option for one or two batteries for extra long range, hydraulic disc brakes and a watt-based more comfortable feeling pedal assist sensor, this e-bike is dragging electric cargo bikes into the future.

The $1,399 Lectric XPedition has turned the electric cargo bike market upside down, finally bringing a heavy-hitting cargo e-bike to market for an ultra-affordable price.

While it’s not the nicest cargo e-bike on the market, it’s definitely the best bang for your buck thanks to a combination of high value parts and reasonable pricing.

Lectric XPedition quick specs:

• Motor:  750W rear hub motor
• Battery:  48V 14Ah (672 Wh) with the option for a second battery
• Weight:  68 lb (31 kg)
• Price:   $1,399

Aventon Soltera.2

The $1,399 Aventon Soltera.2 is the latest version of Aventon’s beautiful city bike that offers some of the best quality fabrication that I’ve seen in this price range – or even in higher price ranges. It is offered in either a single-speed or seven-speed format.

The bike rolls on narrow tires for that efficient city ride, while still packing in a 500W motor.

The battery is a bit smaller at 36V and 10Ah, but the bike makes up for a smaller battery by being able to integrate it into the frame in a sleek and attractive package.

The beautiful color display also adds to the bike’s charm, as do the powerful headlight and frame-integrated tail light. There’s even an awesome companion app that lets your phone track your bike’s important stats. Basically, you’re getting a lot for $1,199 here!

Check out my in-depth Aventon Soltera.2 review here .

Aventon Soltera.2 quick specs:

• Motor:  500W peak-rated rear hub motor
• Battery:  36V 10Ah (360 Wh)
• Top speed:  20 mph (32 km/h)
• Range:  20-63 miles (32-101 km)
• Weight:  46 lb (21 kg)
• Price:   $1,199

Ride1Up Turris

Ride1Up has proven itself as a high-value electric bike brand, focusing largely on efficient and speedy commuter e-bikes. While the company has many models in the $1,000 to $2,000 range, the $1,095 Ride1Up Turris (at it’s current sale price ) is one of the best bang-for-your-buck options.

A powerful 750W continuous-rated motor gets the bike up to Class 3 speeds that will have you keeping up with traffic or even passing cars when they get bogged down in the city. That extra speed over most class 2 e-bikes can be quite useful when riding on the side of the road trying to reduce the number of times a car whizzes by you. Even when riding alone or in a protected path away from cars, the extra speed sure makes for a fun ride.

The sporty tires and two choices of frame style (step over or step through) give riders plenty of options to use this bike on the trails or the streets. I love that it includes full metal fenders as well so you don’t have to spend extra on those. I’d definitely recommend spending an extra $50 for the rear rack though if you plan to use the bike as a commuter, since you never know when you’ll need to toss something on the back.

If you want to upgrade to more power and a nicer set of components, the $1,695 700 Series is worth a look. But I think the Ride1Up Turris is sufficient for most riders.

Ride1Up Turris quick specs:

• Range:  32-64 km (20-40 mi) throttle vs. pedal assist
• Battery:  48V 12.8Ah (614 Wh) with genuine LG cells
• Weight : 25 kg (55 lb)
• Price :  $1,095

Lectric XPeak

Lectric Ebikes recently expanded into larger territory with the launch of the new Lectric XPeak. It’s the company’s first e-bike with a larger than 20″ wheel size, bringing some chunky 26×4.0″ tires into the company’s inventory.

The XPeak takes the form of a typical adventure-style fat tire electric bike. It features a hardtail design with a suspension fork, high volume tires, hydraulic disc brakes and a relatively large battery that is certified by the Swiss testing agency SGS to meet UL 2849 standards.

The bike is also tested to higher standards for ruggedness of the frame and fork than most e-bikes in this price range, meaning it’s likely going to last longer too. As far as fat tire adventure-style e-bikes go, there’s no better bang for your buck than the Lectric XPeak.

Lectric XPeak quick specs:

• Motor:  750W (1,300W peak)
• Range:  Up to 75 km (45 mi) on low power
• Battery:  48V 14 Ah (672 Wh)
• Weight : 39.4 kg (67 lb)
• Price : $1,299 (may increase to $1,399 after promotional sale ends)

Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser

The Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser is Ride1Up’s first non-purely commuter electric bike, and boy did they knock it out of the park on this one.

The Cafe Cruiser, as its name suggests, is part cruiser bike, part fast motorbike.

The cruiser bars, suspension fork, comfortable seat and pedal-forward geometry make it a pleasure to ride. The high performance 750W hub motor and 28 mph (45 km/h) top speed make it a blast for quick errand running and fun commutes.

High quality parts like hydraulic disc brakes complete the package, and the included fenders and rear rack increase the bike’s value.

One of the coolest features though is the passenger package that adds a rear bench seat, wheel skirt and foot pegs so you can carry a second rider on back. The second seat has a quick release so you can easily pop it on and off the bike whenever you need to swap back and forth between carrying your friends or a basket full of groceries home.

At just $1,595 , the Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser is priced way below fair market value, which makes this an absolute steal of a deal.

Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser quick specs:

• Motor:  750W rear geared hub motor
• Range:  50-80 km (30-50 mi)
• Battery:  48V 15Ah (720 Wh)
• Weight : 29 kg (65 lb)
• Price : $1,595

Rad Power Bikes RadRunner

The RadRunner from Rad Power Bikes has been an industry favorite ever since it was first announced back in 2019. The company is actually on the RadRunner 2 now, but the update only made minor changes since the original was already so well designed.

The bike uses a step-through moped style frame to create a short utility bike or mini cargo e-bike. It’s quick up to the 20 mph top speed and offers a ton of uses. When outfitted with the Passenger Package , it has a seat and footpegs that let you carry kids or adults on the back, turning this into a multi-passenger e-bike.

The high-capacity battery and powerful motor also make for sprightly acceleration and longer than average rides, so you’ll have enough power to ride all day.

The RadRunner is truly one of those do-anything e-bikes because it has so many uses. The same bike can be used for fun recreational riding, city commuting, trail riding, or grocery shopping. There’s something for everyone.

There’s even an upgraded version known as the RadRunner Plus, which adds suspension, a seven-speed transmission, a more detailed display, and the passenger package, though the RadRunner Plus costs a bit more at $1,899 .

Check out my complete review of the RadRunner 2 here .

RadRunner 2 quick specs:

• Range:  45-72 km (25-45 mi) depending on user input
• Battery:  48V 14Ah (672 Wh)
• Weight : 29.5 kg (65 lb)
• Price : $1,499

Rad Power Bikes RadWagon 4

Cargo electric bikes are the workhorses of the e-bike world. They have higher weight capacities and more surface area for carrying all of your gear.

The $1,999 Rad Power Bikes RadWagon 4 is one of my favorite options thanks to the awesome build and wide range of compatible Rad accessories.

The bike’s 750W motor and large capacity battery make it easy to hit the top speed of 20 mph and ride farther than your errands will require.

Plus that long rear bench has tons of room for boxes, bags, or kiddos. I’ve had three riders on the bike plenty of times, and it can definitely do more. Plus, I love that double center kickstand for creating an ultra-stable parking platform.

Check out my full in-depth review of the RadWagon 4 e-cargo bike here .

Rad Power Bikes RadWagon 4 quick specs:

• Motor:  750 W geared rear hub motor
• Battery:  48V 14Ah (672Wh)
• Weight : 34.8 kg (76.7 lb)
• Price: $1,999

Electric Bike Company Model Y

Electric Bike Company is one of the only e-bike manufacturers that actually builds its electric bikes in the US from the ground up.

They start with bare frames and perform the entire build locally with highly trained e-bike technicians. That also allows them to offer more customization options than any other e-bike company out there.

The $1,949 Model Y is a step-through cruiser e-bike with a hidden battery in the front basket. It offers fast speeds up to 28 mph and high-quality parts like hydraulic disc brakes and top-end hardware. The color screen and leather accents on the seat and bar ends add to the classy look too!

The real treat though is getting to select the custom paint on every surface of the bike, plus your own rim colors, trim colors, and tire options. It’s incredibly customizable to the point where you’re virtually guaranteed to be able to create a truly one-of-a-kind electric bike if you wish.

Check out my full review of the Electric Bike Company Model Y here .

Electric Bike Company Model Y quick specs:

• Motor:  1,000W peak rear geared hub motor
• Range:  Up to 80 km (50 mi) with moderate pedaling
• Battery:  48V with either 9Ah (432 Wh) or 18Ah (864 Wh) options
• Weight : 26 kg (58 lb)
• Price:   $1,949

Velotric Nomad 1

Velotric has a number of interesting e-bikes in its lineup and I’m enjoying testing several of the companies new models. But one of my favorites so far — thanks to its excellent off-road abilities — has got to be the Velotric Nomad 1.

The e-bike isn’t just powerful or surprisingly comfortable for an off-road, it’s also quite safe. The punchy hydraulic disc brakes offer quick and controlled stops while the UL-certified battery and e-bike systems offer safe operations, removing the worry of dangerous thermal events.

For just $1,499 at its current sale price, this is an excellent bike for both asphalt commuting and dirt trail excursions, all on the same ride!

Check out my full review of the Velotric Nomad 1 here .

Velotric Nomad 1 quick specs:

• Motor:  1,200W peak rear geared hub motor
• Range:  Up to 88km (55 mi) on pedal assist
• Battery:  48V 14.4Ah (691 Wh) frame-integrated, removable
• Weight : 33 kg (73 lb)
• Price:  $1,499

Ride1Up Rift

Ride1Up’s first adventure-style electric bike was a smashing success, helping the San Diego-based electric bike maker enter an entirely new category with a bang.

This fat tire electric bike has a powerful motor, a massive 960Wh battery and an ultra rugged frame with built-in rear rack that can carry heavy cargo or even an adult passenger on back.

With fenders, built-in LED lights and cargo capabilities, the Ride1Up Rift would also make a surprisingly good commuter bike that will traverse pot holes and other rough street imperfections just as well as it handles off-road conditions.

Check out my full review of the Ride1Up Rift XR here .

Ride1Up Rift XR quick specs:

• Motor:  750W continuous-rated rear geared hub motor
• Top speed:  32 km/h (20 mph) on throttle, or 45 km/h (28 mph) on pedal assist
• Range:  Up to 96 km (60 mi) on pedal assist
• Battery:  48V 20Ah (960 Wh) frame-integrated, removable
• Weight : 38 kg (84.5 lb)
• Price:  $1,895

Velotric Packer electric cargo bike

There are a lot of electric cargo bikes on the market, but the Velotric Packer has recently become one of my go-to recommendations for several reasons. It’s fairly priced, has loads of cargo accessories, includes a UL-certified battery, comes in some eye-catching colors, and works well for transporting my three nieces and nephews around with me.

At its sale price of $1,899, this is definitely an electric cargo bike to have on your short list for it’s slick-looking design and great functionality.

Check out my full review of the Velotric Packer here .

• Motor : 750W (1,200W peak) rear-geared hub motor
• Top speed : 20 mph (32 km/h) or 25 mph (40 km/h) when unlocked
• Range : Up to 52 miles (84 km)
• Battery : 48V 15Ah (692 Wh)
• Weight : 75 lb (34 kg)
• Price : $1,899

By the time you surpass the $2,000 dollar mark, you’re starting to get into serious e-bikes with serious performance or build quality.

If you’re spending this much, you’ll want to ensure you’re buying from a reputable company with top-notch products and service.

Ride1Up Prodigy V2 mid-drive e-bike

The $2,295 Ride1Up Prodigy V2 has brought new meaning to the phrase “low-cost mid-drive electric bike”, updating an already impressive e-bike with a new next-gen setup.

This e-bike sports a high-end German-manufactured Brose mid-drive motor and can hit speeds of up to 28 mph (45 km/h), yet is price similarly to much cheaper hub motor-based electric bikes.

It’s a perfect commuter e-bike for someone that wants high quality parts like that German mid-drive motor with 90Nm of torque, hydraulic disc brakes, bright LED lights, included fenders, rear rack, and a very comfortable saddle. Plus there’s a choice between a nice 9-speed chain drive transmission or a fancier Gates Carbon Drive belt setup with an Enviolo continuously variable transmission.

This e-bike is easily worth another $500 more than the price tag, if not more. In fact, you’ll find many of these same components on e-bikes with $3,000-$4,000 price tags all over the place. So if you’re looking for a higher quality e-bike that doesn’t cost as much as a fancy bike shop e-bike, this is the one to consider.

Ride1Up Prodigy quick specs:

• Motor:  Brose TF Sprinter mid-drive
• Range:  30-50 miles (50-80 km)
• Battery:  36V 14Ah (504Wh)
• Weight : 58 lb (26 kg)
• Price :  $2,395

Juiced Scorpion X

The $2,199 Juiced Scorpion X has all the old-school charm of a vintage moped, but it adds back in a powerful electric drivetrain. It also has awesome-looking cast wheels that remove the issue of spoke maintenance, plus add to the cool stance.

The bench seat allows riders to scoot forward or backward to find the best seating position, and the tall bars give a fun cruiser/motorcycle feel to the bike. With full suspension, hydraulic disc brakes, and a built-in rear rack/fenders, there are a lot of nice parts on the Scorpion X

A powerful throttle lets you blast up to 20 mph, or engaging the pedal assist can take you even faster to 28 mph. And Juiced offers a larger battery than most competitors, letting you ride this moto-styled e-bike even further.

Check out my in-depth review of the Juiced Scorpion X here .

Juiced Scorpion X quick specs:

• Motor:  750W “nominal” (claimed 1.8 kW peak) RetroBlade rear hub motor
• Range:  Up to 55 miles (88 km) on pedal-assist or closer to half that on throttle
• Battery:  52V 15Ah 780Wh (removable and lockable)
• Weight : 100 lb (45 kg)
• Price : $2,199

Priority Current

I love the $3,299 Priority Current electric bike so much that it has become one of my daily riders. It’s the one I grab when I’m doing city riding and I know I want to be pedaling.

Becuase it doesn’t have a throttle, you’ll need to enjoy pedaling in order to enjoy this e-bike. But it makes it so much fun to pedal thanks to a torque sensor-based pedal assist that provides natural feeling assistance up to a fast 28 mph top speed.

The internally geared rear hub combined with a Gates belt drive system and powerful hydraulic disc brakes make this a very nice e-bike for the price. Plus that mid-drive motor offers tons of torque for climbing hills or accelerating quickly.

I’m also a fan of the built-in lights and included fenders, not to mention the integrated high-capacity battery that disappears in the frame.

Mid-drive electric bikes aren’t cheap, but the price is definitely a fair one for this e-bike.

Check out my full review of the Priority Current here . I also recently reviewed the Shimano 5-speed version of this e-bike, which you can find here .

Priority Current quick specs :

• Motor:  500W mid-drive motor with torque sensor
• Top speed:  28 mph (45 km/h) or 20 mph (32 km/h) user-selectable
• Range:  30-60 miles (48-96 km)
• Battery:  500 Wh frame-integrated battery
• Weight : 24 kg (53 lb)
• Price: $3,299

Ride1Up CF Racer1

I’m not normally a carbon fiber, drop bar, race bike kind of guy. But then again, that’s usually because those types of bikes are way out of my price range… until now.

The Ride1Up CF Racer1 brings carbon fiber road e-bikes to the common man, offering both a traditional road bike and a gravel bike edition.

At under 29 lb (13 kg), these e-bikes are some of the lightest around. I picked one up with my index finger and was shocked at how easily it left the ground.

To get there, that meant a relatively low-power motor and a smaller battery were required. But for the folks that ride these types of bikes, a big motor and heavy battery probably aren’t on their wishlist anyway. Instead, a simple extra boost, as if you’ve always got a tailwind, helps augment your own pedaling.

For just $2,295 , there’s no better deal out there for a budget-friendly carbon fiber road e-bike.

Ride1Up CF Racer1 quick specs

• Motor:  250W 42 Nm torque
• Top speed:  28 mph (45 km/h) on pedal assist
• Range:  16-40 miles (26-64 km)
• Battery:  252 Wh frame-integrated battery
• Weight : 12.9 kg (28.6 lb)
• Price: $2,295

Biktrix Moto

There’s a lot to like about the Biktrix Moto electric moped. Near the top of the list though has got to be the dual batteries. There’s a single battery option that starts at $2,299 , but the dual battery option doubles the range up to a maximum of 100 miles.

Even with just one battery, the high capacity of 1,008 Wh makes these some of the biggest batteries in the e-bike industry. Combine that with a high power motor, tall handlebars, and a long bench seat, and you’ve got a seriously fun electric moped.

It doesn’t slouch on components either. The lighting is ultra bright and it features other nice parts like powerful hydraulic disc brakes and an included rack/fender setup.

See my full review of the Biktrix Moto e-bike here .

Biktrix Moto quick specs:

• Motor:  Bafang 750W continuous hub motor (peak power not published)
• Top speed:  25 mph (40 km/h) but can be limited to Class 2 speeds
• Range:  Up to 100 miles (160 km) with two batteries
• Battery:  48V 21Ah (1,008 Wh) in each battery (two possible)
• Weight:  90 lb (41 kg)
• Price: $2,299

Ride1Up REVV1 FS

This full-suspension electric moped-style e-bike is a masterclass in high performance electric bike design. Sure, it’s an obvious SUPER73 imitation, but it’s a really well done imitation.

It handles well, it’s got great rubber between you and the road, the suspension gives a comfortable ride, and it’s got plenty of extra power.

Despite the 750W label, the e-bike can be unlocked to make use of nearly 1,500W of peak power. I was able to reach a top speed of 37 mph (59.5 km/h) during my testing (not on public streets!).

But the bike ships in Class 2 mode with a 750W limit and 20 mph (32 km/h) maximum speed, meaning you’ll have to contact the company to request an unlock for the bike to be used above Class 2 speeds and power levels.

All in all, the $2,395 Ride1Up REVV1 FS is an amazing e-bike for anyone who wants a moped-style ride with full-suspension, high quality 4-piston hydraulic disc brakes and a design that rides almost like a motorcycle, yet in a bike form factor.

Check out my complete Ride1Up REVV1 FS review here .

Ride1Up REVV1 quick specs:

• Motor:  Bafang 750W continuous hub motor
• Top speed:  20 mph (32 km/h) out of the box, 37 mph (59.5 km/h) when unlocked
• Battery:  52V 20Ah (1,040 Wh)
• Weight:  93 lb (42 kg)
• Price: $2,395

Tern Quick Haul

The Tern Quick Haul is an electric cargo bike from the famed cargo e-bike company Tern. It holds the distinction of being the most affordable model in Tern’s lineup.

That says a lot, because Tern is known for its high quality e-bikes that are built to be ridden every day for real world errands, carpool duty and more. These e-bikes are meant to replace cars, and they do just that for many riders. With a huge list of accessories, you can outfit a Quick Haul for just about any job.

The Tern Quick Haul features a mid-drive Bosch motor, hydraulic disc brakes, Tern’s vertical parking rack, and a relatively lightweight but high utility design that is meant to carry just about anything in your life.

We had the chance to test a pair of Quick Hauls at Eurobike in Frankfurt last year, which you can learn more about here.

Motor:  Bosch Active Line Plus mid-drive motor Top speed:  20 mph (32 km/h) with pedal assist (no throttle) Range:  Up to 60 miles (96 km), less when riding in highest power Battery:  400Wh, removable/lockable Weight:  50 lb (22.8 kg) Price : $2,999

Ariel Rider X-Class

When it comes to fast, powerful electric mopeds on a budget, it’s hard to compete with the $2,399 Ariel Rider X-Class . This is the e-bike I usually recommend when someone simply wants the most power and speed for the least amount of money.

The impressive performance comes from a powerful 1,000W motor that actually puts out closer to 2,000W of peak power. It can be limited to 20 mph if you’d like, but I got it up to 36 mph in unlimited mode.

The bike rolls on 20″ moto-style wheels and comes with nice parts including hydraulic disc brakes, a bench seat, dual suspension, and a big moto-style headlight.

You can see my full review of the Ariel Rider 52V X-Class here .

• Motor:  1,000W (2,000W peak) rear hub motor
• Top speed:  36 mph (58 km/h), but can be limited to Class 2 speeds
• Range:  Up to 75 miles (120 km), less when riding at top speed
• Battery:  52V 18Ah (936 Wh), removable/lockable
• Weight:  80 lb (36 kg)
• Price : $2,399

Rad Power Bikes Rad Rover 6 Plus with accessories

Technically the Rad Rover 6 Plus is priced at $1,999 . And with its free shipping, it comes in under the $2k mark. But I’m including it in the $2k-$3k category because you’re going to want to add a couple of important accessories to this one.

Rad Power Bikes has one of the widest arrays of e-bike accessories on the planet . In fact, it might have THE widest selection. And I’d highly recommend adding the rear rack ($79) to the RadRover 6 Plus, at the very least. It simply adds even more utility and turns an adventure bike into an adventure/hauling bike.

Accessories aside, the RadRover 6 Plus is an awesome ride and packs in some real value. It is the highest-spec e-bike in Rad’s lineup and includes hydraulic disc brakes, redesigned suspension fork, an upgraded frame with a new semi-integrated battery, new displays that are easier to read and use, and so much more.

This is absolutely an e-bike that is worth checking out for anyone that does adventure-style riding and needs big tires combined with high power, and who wants the support and comfort provided by going with North America’s largest e-bike company.

Check out my full RadRover 6 Plus review here .

RadRover 6 Plus quick specs:

• Range:  45-72 km (25-45 mi) depending on throttle or pedal assist
• Weight:  33.3 kg (73.4 lb)

Above $3.5k, you’re entering some seriously dedicated e-bike territory.

These e-bikes either feature top-shelf components like drivetrain and brake parts, or pack in so much power that they couldn’t possibly be priced any lower.

Either way, you’re not in Kansas anymore. You’re heading down the e-bike rabbit hole.

Tern is renowned for building high-quality electric bikes that double down on utility features. The newly updated Tern HSD is the company’s more affordable utility e-bike, offering many features you’ll find on its higher end GSD but at a price that more riders can stomach.

The HSD uses small 20″ wheels and includes a folding stem, making it nice and compact. But taking it one step further, Tern outfitted it with its innovative rack that lets you park the bike on its tail, meaning it takes up barely more space than a coat rack in the corner of a room.

The bike’s Bosch mid-drive and high capacity batteries provide a high-end e-bike drive, and they are matched with a variety of performance drivetrain options that you can select from, depending on how high you want to spec the bike.

Whether you’re ferrying around kids or buying a week’s worth of groceries, the HSD is a solid option.

Check out my detailed first ride experience on the Tern HSD here .

Tern HSD quick specs:

• Motor:  Bosch Active Line Plus mid-drive
• Top speed:  32 km/h (20 mph) with electric assist
• Range:  42-110 km (26-69 mi) depending on pedal input
• Battery:  Bosch PowerPack 400 Wh
• Weight : 25.4 kg (55.9 lb)
• Price:  $4,299

CSC FT1000MD

The CSC FT1000MD sounds like a motorcycle name because it comes from a company with motorcycle heritage. CSC Ebikes was born out of CSC Motorcycles, a company with several decades of two-wheeler experience.

The FT1000MD is the company’s highest power option. The fat tire e-bike comes with a 1,000+ watt motor known as the Bafang M620 Ultra. It’s the most powerful and highest torque e-bike mid-drive motor on the retail market. CSC paired it with a big battery, quality suspension, hydraulic brakes, built-in lighting, and more to create a high performance and high-quality adventure e-bike.

I was able to hit speeds of around 34 mph with the motor in unlocked format, though you can limit it to 20 or 28 mph to fit into class 2 and class 3 designations.

Check out my full review of this incredibly powerful e-bike here .

CSC FT1000MD quick specs:

• Motor:  1,000W continuous Bafang M620 mid-drive
• Top speed: 54 km/h (34 mph) when unlocked
• Battery:  48V 16Ah (768Wh) with Samsung 35E cells
• Frame:  6061 aluminum
• Suspension:  Front suspension fork with preload and damping adjustment, plus lockout
• Brakes:  Tektro hydraulic disc brakes with 180 mm rotors
• Weight : 34 kg (75 lb)
• Price:  $3,299 or save $200 with discount code ELECTREK

Ariel Rider Grizzly

When it comes to all-wheel-drive electric bikes, the $3,299 Ariel Rider Grizzly is one of my favorites.

This incredible e-bike is really more of a small electric motorcycle. It uses two high-power motors – one in each wheel – to offer speeds in the mid-30s and acceleration that will get you there in the blink of an eye.

Full suspension and hydraulic disc brakes make this an e-bike that handles well at any speed, and the bright red paint job looks as aggressive as the e-bike feels. It even comes with footpegs pre-installed so you can carry a passenger with you.

Plus it’s got double batteries to feed those two power-hungry motors, so you’ll be able to ride this e-bike pretty darn far too, as long as you aren’t too demanding from the throttle.

Check out my full in-depth review of the epic Ariel Rider Grizzly e-bike here .

Ariel Rider Grizzly quick specs:

• Motors:  Dual 1,000W continuous hub motors (1,850W peak or 3.7 kW combined)
• Top speed:  36 mph (58 km/h) when unlocked, but can be limited to Class 2 speeds
• Battery:  52V 35Ah (1,820 Wh) between two removable/lockable batteries
• Weight:  105 lb (47.6 kg)

Specialized Turbo Como SL

For more of a cruiser/city e-bike experience, the $4,800 Specialized Turbo Como SL is a great option. This e-bike offers a much more upright ride for a fun, relaxed vibe.

The e-bike features a high-quality mid-drive motor, hydraulic disc brakes, Gates carbon belt drive, and an eight-speed internally geared hub. Those are a lot of nice parts!

And don’t forget the slim fenders, front basket, and cruiser bars that all look super elegant, complimenting the nice lines of the Turbo Como SL.

This may not be a low-cost e-bike, but it definitely offers a ride that makes it worth it.

See my full review of the Specialized Turbo Como SL here .

Specialized Turbo Como SL quick specs:

• Motor:  Custom Specialized SL1.1 mid-drive motor
• Range:  Up to 100 km (62 mi), or 50% more with range extender
• Battery:  Downtube-integrated 320 Wh battery
• Weight : 20.5 kg (45 lb.)
• Price:   $4,800

If you’ve been looking for a high-end trekking electric bike that was built with a combination of high-quality parts and the latest technology, look no further than the $4,550 Greyp T5.

There’s a reason why Porsche bought this e-bike company – it’s simply one of the best.

It uses Greyp’s own in-house developed 700 Wh battery combined with a mid-drive motor to offer a hardtail trekking e-bike. In addition to the awesome bike design, the built-in tech is what really opens people’s eyes. Integrated cameras at the front and rear of the bike can serve as dash cams or livestream your rides. Plus you can capture all of your ride footage on the bike instead of bringing along a Go-Pro camera.

There’s also an app that allows you to take full advantage of the built-in eSIM card, giving you connectivity to the bike and letting you check all your vital stats, find its location, and more – right from your phone.

The bike is truly a high-end offering by itself, but the embedded tech makes it a rarity in any category.

See my first ride review of the Greyp T5 e-bike here .

Best electric bikes above $5,000

You just couldn’t stop, could you? I showed you plenty of awesome e-bikes that didn’t cost most of a paycheck. But you just haaaaad to keep going.

Fine, here they are. These are some of the most expensive e-bikes out there that we’ve tested and that I’d actually recommend someone buying, if you can pony up the cash.

Fuell Flluid-2 and Flluid-3

The $5,495 Fuell Flluid-2 and Flluid-3 are great examples of what happens when a motorcycle designer applies his tradecraft to a smaller platform, creating an e-bike built to a higher standard.

The Fuell Flluid’s smooth mid-drive motor with built-in gearbox and Gates carbon belt drive setup combine to make an ultra-responsive and polished electric powertrain. The two removable batteries built into special cutouts in the frame offer long-range riding without looking like a packhorse carrying massive batteries.

The e-bike is nearly maintenance-free thanks to the belt drive and hydraulic disc brakes. The duo removes the two most common maintenance issues with bikes: chain wear and brake adjustment.

Flying fast at 28 mph (45 km/h) is a blast, and doing it on a smooth-riding e-bike with Pirelli tires is even better. Then add in the ultra-bright lights, built-in fenders and rear rack, the suspension seat post, color LCD screen and other niceties, and now you’re left with a high-end e-bike that could serve you for years as a daily commuter e-bike designed for nearly maintenance-free high mileage riding. The only downside is that the bike is quite heavy at 36 kg (79 lb). But you can’t expect all these great parts and dual batteries on a featherweight bike!

Check out my full review of the Fuell Flluid here .

Fuell Flluid quick specs:

• Motor:  750-1,000W rated Valeo mid-drive motor with built-in gearbox
• Range:  Up to 200 km (125 mi) with dual batteries (though Fuell-3 has just a single battery)
• Brakes:  Tektro hydraulic disc brakes on 180 mm rotors
• Weight:  36 kg (79 lb)
• Price: $5,495

GoCycle G4i+

When it comes to ultra-premium folding electric bikes, there’s only one name that comes to my mind: GoCycle. These are the most impressive folding e-bikes I’ve ever seen. And they better be – they were designed by a former McLaren engineer.

Between the carbon fiber work, single-sided wheels, high-tech tires, trippy LED dot display, innovative rear suspension, and completely enclosed drivetrain, there’s a lot of high-end stuff going on here.

The speed will vary from 15-20 mph depending on which country you buy the bike in, but the performance is only part of the equation. The quick folding and light, compact design of the e-bike is the real winner here.

Check out my full review of the GoCycle G4i+ here .

GoCycle G4i+ quick specs:

• Motor:  500W front hub motor
• Top speed:  20 mph (32 km/h) in the US
• Range:  up to 50 miles (80 km)
• Battery:  36V 10.4Ah (375 Wh)
• Weight : 37.2 lb (16.9 kg)
• Price:   $6,999

Serial 1 RUSH/CTY SPEED

Serial 1, the electric bicycle company that spun out of Harley-Davidson, has several awesome electric bike models. While most fall under the $5,000 mark, I’m going to recommend their top of the line model: The $5,599 Serial 1 RUSH/CTY SPEED . If you’re in the market to buy a Serial 1 e-bike, you might as well go for the best.

Like all of Serial 1’s e-bikes, it’s got a great design and ridability. Serial 1 scored top e-bike designers from companies like Trek, so they know how to build an awesome bike with killer geometry. They also brought in the Harley-Davidson LiveWire electric motorcycle engineers to build the custom battery, so it’s top of the line too. Then they used pro parts like the Brose mid-drive and Gates carbon belt drive setup. Basically, it’s an incredible e-bike. And with a 28 mph (45 km/h) top speed plus a huge 706 Wh battery to ride all day, the performance matches the build.

Serial 1 even goes above and beyond with their own custom weight bearing fenders that also happen to be functional racks (both in the front and rear), their own custom designed lights that throw serious illumination up front and give you great rear visibility from dropout-mounted lights, and there’s even a glovebox in the bike!

Basically, there’s a lot to like here. Yes, it’s expensive. But you’re not just paying for the H-D name on the side. It’s actually a high quality, high performance electric bike regardless of the badging.

Check out my full first ride on the various Serial 1 e-bike models here .

Motor:  High torque Brose TF MAG mid-drive motor Top speed (tested):  45 km/h (28 mph) Battery:  706 Wh Serial 1 custom battery Range:  25-115 miles (40-185 km), likely more in the 30-50 miles range with normal riding Weight:  26.7 kg (59 lb) Price:   $5,599

FREY EX Pro electric mountain bike

The FREY EX Pro is a high-end electric mountain bike with crazy high power. It uses the same motor as the CSC FT1000MD we featured above (the Bafang M620 mid-drive), but cranks up the current to provide closer to 1,500W of power.

It’s enough to destroy chains if you aren’t careful. We know. Several of us here at Electrek have done it.

The FREY EX Pro not only features high-end parts like a RockShox Lyric fork and Magura MT5e hydraulic brakes, but it even comes with dual batteries so you can ride farther and stay on the trails longer.

I’ve personally taken this e-bike back UP a downhill mountain bike course – that’s how powerful it is.

It may be expensive, but it saves you several thousand dollars compared to many European electric mountain bikes with similar components but a fraction of the power in the FREY.

See my full review of the FREY EX Pro here .

• Motor:  1 kW continuous, 1.5 kW peak-rated Bafang Ultra mid-drive motor
• Top speed (tested):  59 km/h (36 mph)
• Battery:  Dual 48V 14Ah packs (1,344 Wh total)
• Range:  Varies  considerably  by ride style/terrain, but 30-100 km (20-60 miles) is the ballpark
• Weight:  34 kg (75 lb)
• Price:   $5,580

Top comment by BluePizza

1–I have a Lectric XPLite. It’s great to load in the SUV or RV with my wife’s Liberty Trike, which weighs only 50 lbs AND comes apart into two 25-lb pieces. Easy on my old back! The new RAD and Lectric trikes are good, I’m sure, but would be unusable for me. Too heavy.

2–RE: the importance of the sub-$1000 list…I think this also applies to some of the Chinese EV cars, the 50-mph, low-priced category. If brought here, or built here, they’d allow far more people to get into an EV, as a primary city car, or even a suburban 2nd car.

The Tern GSD improves upon the Tern HSD with even more capability and even nicer components. There are multiple versions that can take you up to nearly $10k, but even the lower-tier versions are not “low tier,” if you know what I mean.

Parts like automatically engaging electric locks, 10-speed Shimano Deore transmissions, Magura MT5e quad-piston hydraulic disc brakes, and more set these e-bikes apart from the rest of the pack.

If you’re getting a Tern GSD, you’re getting a fully qualified car replacement. There are many people that use these instead of buying a second car. When you look at it like that, the price suddenly seems pretty reasonable.

Check out our full review of the Tern GSD here .

• Motor:  Bosch Cargo Line mid-drive
• Range:  42-85 km (26-53 mi) depending on pedal input
• Weight : 33.6 kg (74 lb)
• Price : $5,399

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Micah Toll is a personal electric vehicle enthusiast, battery nerd, and author of the Amazon #1 bestselling books DIY Lithium Batteries , DIY Solar Power,   The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide  and The Electric Bike Manifesto .

The e-bikes that make up Micah’s current daily drivers are the $999 Lectric XP 2.0 , the $1,095 Ride1Up Roadster V2 , the $1,199 Rad Power Bikes RadMission , and the $3,299 Priority Current . But it’s a pretty evolving list these days.

You can send Micah tips at [email protected], or find him on Twitter , Instagram , or TikTok .

Micah Toll's favorite gear

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City OKs new Moscow Mountain trails

Moscow Mountain could have a new 2-mile system of bike trails in two years thanks to a local volunteer group and a Tuesday decision from the Moscow City Council.

The Moscow Area Mountain Bike Association is proposing to build and maintain the trail system on the mountain near the intersection of Moscow Mountain Road and Rock Creek Road.

MAMBA is a local nonprofit organization founded in 1997 that develops, maintains and promotes the use of more than 60 miles of non-motorized trails on and around the Moscow Mountain area.

The group wants to construct the trails on 20 acres of land that was donated to the city in 1941 by Harry and Nina Powell. It is currently undeveloped and not being managed for recreational purposes.

MAMBA anticipates construction will cost $10,000. It has applied for a grant from the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation to fund the project, and asked the city to provide a matching $5,000. The city approved the match along with a license agreement for the trail system.

MAMBA anticipates construction to start this spring and for the trails to open in May 2025.

The nonprofit says this new trail system will discourage unauthorized user-created trails, improve recreational activity in the area and appease those who want more advanced mountain bike trails.

Councilor Sandra Kelly said she believes this project will help with the city’s tourism, and she appreciates that MAMBA will maintain the trails.

Councilor Gina Taruscio also praised MAMBA’s ability to tackle a project like this.

“The reputation you guys have precedes you and I really think this is a ridiculous no-brainer,” Taruscio said.

In other business, the council approved an appeal that will allow The Jubilee School Montessori in Eastside Marketplace to have a day care for children ages 3 to 5.

City staff previously determined the proposal did not meet the license requirements because the facility did not have a fenced outdoor play area adjacent to the day care.

Malia Mason, director of The Jubilee School Montessori, approached the council to appeal the denial. She said the school wants to incorporate 3- to 6-year-old children into its school program, but the city requires a day care license for 3-year-olds.

The school plans to create an outdoor play area in the future. There is currently an outdoor space behind the building. Mason also said that 3- to 4-year-olds would not use the outdoor area because they are only at the facility for three hours in the morning.

There was much debate about this request, particularly about whether the school’s unique education model justified waiving the day care rule regarding play areas. The motion to approve the license passed 4-2.

Also on Tuesday, the council approved a grant request to the Idaho Parks and Recreation to upgrade Lola Clyde Park by adding parking, frontage improvements and an internal pathway system.

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Paradise path description.

The Paradise Path forms a critical link between the Latah Trail and Bill Chipman Palouse Trail , two long rail-trails on opposite sides of Moscow, Idaho. Winding within Moscow city limits, the Paradise Path closely follows Paradise Creek for most of its route.

The trail's western end passes through the University of Idaho's campus, making it a useful recreation and active transportation amenity for students, staff and visitors. The trail's eastern end opens up into verdant farmland, but not before a scenic pass through shady Berman Creekside Park, where a beautiful collection of trees and flowers awaits. The park is well-used in the winter, too: a sledding hill and outdoor fireplace welcome visitors of all ages.

Parking and Trail Access

Parking for the Paradise Path is available at Berman Creekside Park (382 Styner Avenue) in Moscow.

Paradise Path Reviews

Great trail connecting Latah Trail and Bill Chipman Trail

While short, this is a fantastic trail that I run and bike on all the time. I've rollerbladed on it too, although there are enough tree roots and other challenges that made rollerblading on it a one-time event.

Nearby Trails

Latah Trail

Length: 16 mi.

Bill Chipman Palouse Trail

Length: 7.1 mi.

Pullman Riverwalk

Length: 0.42 mi.

Grand Avenue Greenway

Length: 1.7 mi.

Ed Corkill Memorial River Trail

Length: 5.3 mi.

Lewiston Levee Parkway Trail

Length: 12.3 mi.

Greenbelt Trail

Length: 7 mi.

Colfax Trail

Length: 3 mi.

Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail

Length: 236.46 mi.

Great American Rail-Trail

Length: 3743.9 mi.

Coeur d'Alene Trail

Length: 73.2 mi.

Milwaukee Road Rail-Trail (Pearson to Calder)

Length: 36.1 mi.

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Table 2 - TUBING TENSILE STRENGTH AND YIELD STRENGTH*

* Most of the information in Tables 1 and 2 was extracted from Jalon Hawk's DesperadoCycles.com web site. Included at his site is Jalon's excellent write up of the geometry and physical properties of the various tubings and what it all means.

** Tubeset weight is not consistent among tubing manufacturers. The length of some of the tubes in a set is different between makers as is the length of butted sections. As a result, the total tubeset weights are not indicative of the relative weight of the resulting bike.

HELICOMATIC HUBS

Trek used Maillard Helicomatic rear hubs on some road bike Models in the mid 80s. They were a clever French innovation using a special cassette (of cogs) that mounts onto a special hub. Great idea, but poorly engineered and tested; they proved to be unreliable. For more information, see Sheldon Brown's comments at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#helicomatic and at The Yellow Jersey http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html .

What to do if you have one on your Trek and it no longer works, or you want a more reliable setup? People often replace the Helicomatic hub/wheel with a freewheel wheel or freehub wheel. If they are concerned about originality, they keep their original wheel and work to find a replacement for the hub or cassette. They show up occasionally on Ebay.com.

Vintage Trek bikes were originally painted with DuPont Imron paint. Imron is a two part paint that is difficult to use by other than professional painters. Imron is still available from DuPont. Some frame painters still use it today. However, some localities have clean air regulations that prohibit its use.

Classic Rendezvous provides a list of expert bike frame painters and refinishers. Desperado Cycles uses Imron as do Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing , Rad Finishes and Spectrum Cycles . If you know of other painters who do, please let me know .

Many of the Imron colors used by Trek are still available. Trek generally used the same Imron color name as did DuPont, so it often is possible to match the original color. The Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing web site has a PDF copy of the Imron color chart on its site.

For many years, Trek had a service to repaint an old Trek for an owner or bike shop. It would not reproduce the original colors and graphics, but used the then current year graphics and colors. This way, a bike might have been made in one year but have paint and graphics from a later year. The repaint service was discontinued around 2010.

TREK DECALS

One source of reproduction Trek decals is VeloCals.com . Here are examples of reproduction Trek graphics made by VeloCals . You can contact JR Anderson of VeloCals at [email protected] .

PAINT TOUCH UP

Because the paint used on Vintage Treks, Imron, is a two-part paint, it is difficult to use for touchup. Many serious bike collectors use Testor's paint. It comes in little bottles and spray cans. It is used for car and airplane models and can be found at hobby shops in lots of colors. If you can't find a match, mix a couple of colors together.

Richard Kaufman writes: "Testor's "Model Master" Enamel Paint in FRENCH BLUE is a virtual match for the Dupont Imron "Race Blue" on my '85 Trek 600. No mixing with other colors required, in my opinion."

Car paint touch up paint also works fine. Get it at a car parts store or car dealer. The bottle comes with its own paintbrush. Color matching can take a bit of work, you may need to mix two or more bottles.

Others have had good luck with fingernail polish, red bikes are especially good for this but, depending on the latest fashion, other colors work as well.

Another option is take the bike to a specialty shop that sells auto paints (not just an auto body shop). They will scan the paint on the bike and mix a perfect match. They can give you the paint in a jar or can put it in a spray bottle. It is a bit pricey; on the order of $60.

THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY

Trek ran the rear derailleur cable through the right chainstay for most of their steel road bikes beginning in 1985 and ending in 1989. A clever idea - that has its supporters and detractors. However, cleverness is also required when replacing the cable. Rich Tong's "Tong Family Blog" lists some helpful methods.

INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME

Unlike some other frame materials, a steel frame does not degrade through normal use or simply through age. However, if a steel bike is ridden in the rain or is kept outdoors, rust on the inside surfaces of the frame tubing can be a problem. A way to check if your frame has been damaged by rust is to remove the bottom bracket and look at the bottom bracket shell and the tubes. Some rust is normal, but lots of rust or significant pitting can be a problem.

To prevent, or significantly reduce, internal rusting, people spray the inside of the tubes with a rust preventative. Two excellent products are "Frame Saver" by J. Peter Weigle and "Boeshield T-9" developed by Boeing. Frame Saver dries to a wax-like coating. It is available at most pro bike shops and over the web. Boeshield T-9 is a protectant and lubricant; it stays oily. Which to use? Peter Weigle is a custom frame maker (support a fellow bike guy). Boeing makes lots of great things that fly, but I believe bikes are not included . . .

People also use LPS 3, a heavy-duty rust inhibitor, which leaves a transparent waxy film. It is commonly available at hardware stores in spray cans.

A simple solution is to spray the insides with WD-40 penetrating oil. It dries to a thin, varnish-like coating that protects the metal. Not quite as good as the three products above, but much better than nothing at all. (BTW - because of this drying characteristic, WD-40 should not be used as a long-term lubricant.)

The rustproofing products above generally do not require removing the rust inside the frame tubes before applying. However, cleaning the inside of the bottom bracket and the headtube of loose rust is a good idea. To treat, remove the bottom bracket, headset and seat post. Spray into every opening in the frame, including the vent holes in the stays. Then, I like to tape over the openings and rotate the frame slowly a few times in various directions, to be sure that all internal surfaces are soaked. Remove the tape and let the excess run out. For the waxy coating types, and WD-40, it it best to allow a day or two drying time before reassembling.

CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM

Your vintage bike came with a quill stem. Can it be converted to a more modern threadless stem? NO, YES, and YES.

NO - The steerer tube on the original fork is almost certainly not long enough to use a full threadless system.

YES - A new fork which has a sufficiently long steerer tube is required. New forks typically are made for threadless stems, and have no threads on the steerer tube. One can employ a used fork from a (much) larger bike that has a sufficiently long steer tube. However, any threaded upper portion of the used fork must be cut off. In this conversion, a threadless headset will be required.

CAUTION - You should NOT attach the threadless stem to the threaded portion of a fork's steerer tube. The steerer tube may (will) break at the threads. This can result in a dramatic alteration of the rider's appearance.

YES - There is an adapter one can buy that has a quill at one end and a cylinder at the other. The quill is inserted into the steerer tube and tightened. The threadless stem is clamped onto the cylindrical end. These threadless stem adapters are available at most bike shops or on the Internet at places like performancebike.com or nashbar.com. Cost is about $20.

UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK

This is a common upgrade for people living in hilly areas. It can be done by replacing a double crank with a triple crank or by attaching a triple chainring adapter, a triplizer, to the existing double crank. Information on tripleizers (triple chainring adapters) , has been provided here by Don Gillies.

What new/used parts do you need to replace a double crank with a triple?

• Triple right crank
• L onger bottom bracket axle or new bottom bracket
• W ide range rear derailleur (either a road triple or mountain bike triple)
• Longer chain
• STI or Ergo triple front shifter or a friction shifter capable of handling a triple (most can).
• A new front derailleur may be needed if: 1. the existing one doesn't have enough range to shift to the inner and outer rings, or 2. if the chain drags on the tail of the derailleur when in the small ring.

If you want to use a small inner ring, less than 30 teeth or so, (touring over the Rockies, stump pulling or just peace of mind) and a large ring of 50 teeth or more, a new front derailleur with a long tail will probably be required. Here are some suggestions for long-tailed front derailleurs (all no longer made): Huret Duo Par, Huret Pilot, SunTour Cyclone MK II, Simplex SJA 522, Simplex SJA 102, Shimano N-600, SunTour Mountech. A Campagnolo Super Record front will work with inner rings down to about 28 teeth.

Drew Saunders has detailed information on making a double to triple conversion. http://www.stanford.edu/~dru/tripleize.html . This page also describes the use of the " tripleizer " chain ring.

A Campagnolo Nuovo or Super Record double crank arm can be converted to a triple by drilling and tapping the crank arm to accept a 74mm BCD inner chainring. It requires some precision, so don't try it with a hand drill. Various shops can do it for you, including Elliott Bay Bicycles in Seattle.

An alternative to a new bottom bracket is to add a longer axle to the existing cup and cone bottom bracket. It may not be easy to determining the length needed. See Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database for a discussion of this problem: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html . Vintage Trek road bike bottom bracket shells are the English/Japanese standard 68mm wide. Used parts can be found at bicycle swap meets, used bike shops, or on eBay.com

If you are able to find a vintage used road triple crank, you may have a challenge finding a bottom bracket or crank axle of the right length. See Sheldon Brown's site, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html , for guidance.

For a vintage Trek, a common setup is to find a used Sugino AT crankset (triple) and use a Shimano UN52 or UN72 or UN73 sealed bottom bracket with 127.5mm axle. This may require a 2mm spacer on the right bottom bracket end to provide sufficient spacing between the small ring and the chainstay. The spacer is typically available at your local bike shop.

One possible solution to the crank axle length problem is to take the crank and bike to your local bike shop. Ask them to sell you a new bottom bracket and install it for you. It is likely the will have only Shimano sealed bottom brackets to choose from. They may have to do some trial an error fitting, trying a few bottom brackets until they come up with one that works. Let them know that using a 1mm or 2mm spacer on the right side is OK.

ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING

Vintage Treks typically came with 5 or 6 or 7 rear cogs. More modern rear hubs have 8, 9 or 10 cogs. Can an old Trek be modified to have more cogs? Yes, but it does take some money and work.

First, you must decide on the number of rear gears you want. If you want more than 8 gears in the rear, it is likely you will need a new crank. A 9 speed chain will likely fall between the chainwheels. A 10 speed chain is more of a problem.

A modern Shimano road hub with 130mm spacing can take a 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette. With a commercially-available spacer, the hub can be used with a 7 speed cassette. This road hub requires 130mm rear dropout spacing (see the Spreading Rear Dropouts section below).

Campagnolo and Shimano components are generally not compatible with each other if index shifting (click shifting) is your goal. Campy or Shimano rear shifters will not work with the other's rear derailleurs or cassettes. (An exception is that 9 speed hubs/wheels can be used, imperfectly, with the other's equipment.) Cassettes of one manufacturer will not fit on the other's rear hubs. However, Campy and Shimano front shifters and derailleurs are usually compatible.

If you are going to buy new road components of a single manufacturer, the components will be compatible, if a common speed (8, 9 or 10) for the parts is specified. If you are going to use components of different years and models, there are some incompatibilities of which you should be aware. The book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" by Leonard Zinn contains details of these problems.

What is needed to convert from a freewheel hub (5, 6, or 7 speeds) to a cassette hub system with index shifting?

• A rear hub capable of carrying a cassette with the targeted number of gears. (This usually entails buying a new wheel.)
• A cassette with the desired number of cogs, that matches the new rear hub.
• New shifters that are made for the number of cogs on the cassette.
• Cable stops to replace the downtube shifters (if you are using integrated brake lever/shifters [AKA brifters] or barcon [bar end] shifters).
• New rear derailleur designed for index shifting. A caution - a rear derailleur designed for a lower number of cogs (e.g. 7) will shift cogs with more gears, BUT - there may not be clearance between the derailleur and the spokes.
• Front derailleur designed for index shifting. If you want to friction shift, almost any front derailleur will work.
• New chain designed for the targeted number of cogs in the cassette. A modern 8 speed chain will also work with 5, 6, or 7 speed cogs. Nine cogs require 9 speed chains; ten cogs require 10 speed chains.

If your bike has brazed-on bosses for downtube shifters, to convert from 5 or 6 speed shifters you probably can find 7 (or rarely, 8) speed Shimano indexed downtube shifters that will fit.

Many conversions use Shimano bar end (also called barcon) indexed shifters. They were available in 7 and 8 speeds (find used or NOS on eBay.com). Nine-speed barcons are still available new. Bar-end shifters avoid the expense of STI integrated brake levers/shifters and allows you to keep your current brake levers. They require replacing your downtube shifters with downtube cable stops.

A caution - some downtube clamp-on shifter bosses made for friction shifting, that may be on your lower to mid-level Trek bike, are not compatible with standard shifters that fit on brazed-on bosses. Downtube cable stops also will not fit on these nonstandard types of clamp-on bosses. Types that do not work are various Shimano ones, including Shimano 600, and many by SunTour. Old Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record clamp-on bosses work fine as do Shimano clamp-on bosses made for index shifting.

A shifter alternative is to use a brifter for shifting the rear derailleur, but a downtube shifter for the front. A regular brake lever can be used for the front brake. This weight-saving setup was often used by Lance on his climbing bike. Also, with this method you can use your existing non-indexing front derailleur and non-indexing downtube shifter.

Here are three innovative shifter alternatives that can facilitate upgrading or modernizing an old bike:

The Kelly Takeoff is: "A simple, low cost alternative to integrated shifting. Lightweight chromoly. Mounts simply. Uses your conventional shifters & aero/non-aero brake levers. Great for retrofits." Paul Component Engineering Thumbies thumb shifter mounts: "These are designed to be used with indexed Shimano bar-end (aka barcon) shifters. Both 9-speed and 8-speed indexed shifters are readily available, and these shifters also still have a friction option for everything else." Bar-end Shifter Mounts from Rivendell Bicycle Works . "If you have regular downtube shifters that you want to convert to bar-enders, you need these. Most shifters work on them. Not all, but most." CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS Many older Treks came with 27" diameter wheels/tires. More modern bikes use 700C wheels/tires. A common question is: "Can I simply replace my 27" wheels with 700C"? The answer is yes, if your brake pads can be lowered in their slots by 4mm or more. This is usually the case. A practical test is to borrow a set of 700C wheels and try them. If the pads cannot be lowered that much, the brakes calipers will have to be replaced with others that allow this much reach. There are plenty of good 27" tires available at road bike shops or on the Internet. Touring, commuting, and training tire availability is not a problem; lots of choices. Why change from 27" to 700C? Three reasons: 1. You want to use racing clincher tires. The selection and availability of lightweight skinny tires in 700C is huge. 2. You want to use tubular tires (which are not available in 27" diameter). 3. If you think 27" wheels/tires are old fashioned or your riding buddies give you grief.

SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS

Early Vintage Treks, 1976 to 1982 (or so), have a rear dropout spacing of 120mm. After 82, spacing increased to 126mm to accommodate 6 or 7 speed hubs. With a bit of effort (or $) you can bend the stays on your steel Trek to increase the spacing to work with modern hubs. Modern spacing is 130mm for 8, 9 or 10 speed (road hubs). One can even spread to 135mm to employ the extra strength of mountain bike rear hubs. This is common for touring bikes.

CAUTION: Only steel frames can be safely spread. Aluminum and carbon frames should not be spread as they tend to break or be damaged, not bend. Additionally, frames of Reynolds 753 steel tubing (such as the Trek Model 170) should not be spread. The forces required are so high that damage to the frame (or the person bending) is likely.

Unfortunately, there is some (but minor) risk involved in permanently bending a frame; the brake bridge or chainstay bridge can pop, leaving you with junk or an expensive repair job. An experienced bike shop can do the spreading, but usually with the proviso that is is at your risk.

One do-it-yourself method employs an 8" or longer piece of allthread, two nuts, and two washers. Allthread is a continuously-threaded rod available in most hardware stores. Use either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. The allthread is placed in the dropouts and the nuts are turned outward to spread the dropouts. The washers go between the nuts and the dropouts. Lubricate the allthread to make the process easier.

You must spread well beyond the target width to get the stays to bend. It is an iterative process. Screw the dropouts out a bit, measure the spread, unscrew the allthread, and measure the result. If no permanent spreading is accomplished, spread again, going a bit farther. Repeat this process until the target is reached. Use care, there is little distance between spreading with no permanent bending and spreading with permanent bending. If you do go beyond the target width, use the allthread in reverse to bend the dropouts back together. Columbus tubing is commonly thought to be the most difficult to bend, followed by Ishiwata and then Reynolds 531.

I wrap the bridges with many turns of string and/or strapping tape to help assure they do not pop. However, realize that the tape or string can damage the paint. One can use the string method described by Sheldon Brown (see below) to check alignment after the spreading. Most Trek frames do not have dimpled chainstays, so spreading using the allthread method tends to spread the stays uniformly, and does not significantly affect alignment.

A final test of alignment is whether you can ride the bike with no hands and have the bike go straight with both bike and rider vertical.

More frame spreading information is available at Sheldon Brown's site http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html . He suggests an alternative method for spreading, employing a wooden 2 x 4. However, the 2 x 4 method can misalign the entire rear triangle. If this happens, one can use the allthread in reverse to keep the dropouts from spreading apart while using the 2 x 4 to twist the rear triangle back into alignment.

After spreading the dropouts, a good frame shop will align the dropout faces to make them parallel. They will have a tool just for this purpose. For the do-it-yourselfer, this is not normally necessary. Non parallel dropouts are often cited as a cause of axle breakage, at least for freewheel-type hubs. However, with the wide bearing location of modern cassette hubs, the problem is not encountered.

A shortcut, useful for going from 126mm to 130mm, is not to permanently spread the frame. When you install the 130mm hub, just pull apart the dropouts to make it fit. Not very elegant, but works just fine.

IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

Is the tubing on your frame Columbus? If so, the steerer tube outer surface would probably have a little Columbus dove stamped on it. Also, if Columbus, the lower portion of inside of the steerer tube will typically have "ridges" or "rifling". (The inner surface of the top of the tube will be smooth to accept the stem.) If either is the case, the fork tubing is almost certainly Columbus. If the fork is original, the rest of the frame is almost certainly Columbus. However, if either the dove or the rifling are missing, it is not proof it is not Columbus, but it likely is not.

On vintage Treks, the Cinelli bottom bracket (with cast in "Cinelli") was more commonly used with Columbus tubing. However, it is not a reliable indicator as it also was used with Reynolds 531 tubing.

SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT INFORMATION HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS HELICOMATIC HUBS PAINT TREK DECALS PAINT TOUCH UP INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

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