trek farley e bike conversion

Can I Convert My Trek Bike to Electric? Here’s What You Need to Know

Electric bikes have been rapidly growing in popularity in recent years, offering a alternative to traditional bicycles that doesn’t require as much effort to ride. However, buying a brand new e-bike can often be quite expensive, which can cause some riders to wonder if it’s possible to create their own e-bike at home. One question many cyclists have is whether they can convert their existing bike, such as a Trek model, to electric power. In this article, we’ll explore just what it takes to turn your Trek into an e-bike.

The answer isn’t as simple as a quick yes or no, as there are several factors to consider before attempting to convert a bike to electric power. Some riders may find that it’s best to simply purchase a new, pre-built electric bicycle, while others may be able to successfully upgrade their existing ride to electric. We’ll delve into the pros and cons of bike conversion and help you figure out if it’s the right choice for you. So, let’s start exploring the ins and outs of converting a Trek bike to electric power!

Table of Contents

Understanding the Different Types of Electric Bike Conversions for Trek Bikes

Electric bike conversion is a great way to transform your Trek bike into an e-bike without spending too much on a new electric bike. But before converting, it’s crucial to understand the different types of electric bike conversions available in the market. There are three main types – front wheel hub motor, rear wheel hub motor, and mid-drive motor.

Front wheel hub motor conversion kit is the most common and straightforward electric bike conversion option. It involves replacing the front wheel of your Trek bike with a wheel that has a motor attached to it. The kit also comes with a battery, controller, and a throttle or pedaling sensor to regulate the speed. While it’s easy to install, this conversion kit might affect the balance of your bike as it adds weight to the front wheel.

Read Also: How to Lock Your Electric Bike: Tips and Tricks to Keep It Safe

The Pros and Cons of Converting Your Trek Bike to Electric

The idea of converting your Trek bike to electric might sound tempting, but before you dive into it, it’s essential to weigh the pros and cons of the conversion process. Let’s start with the advantages. One of the most significant benefits of adding an electric motor to your Trek bike is that it enhances your overall riding experience. You can cover more distance with less effort, tackle hilly terrain with ease, and enjoy a comfortable and effortless ride.

Another significant advantage of an electric conversion is that it’s more cost-effective than buying a new electric bike. You can save money by using your existing Trek bike as a base for your conversion. However, there are some downsides to consider as well. The added weight of the battery and motor can make it harder to maneuver the bike, and it may not handle as well as its standard counterpart. Additionally, it can be challenging to achieve a seamless integration of the motor into the bike’s frame, making the conversion process tricky and potentially costly.

What You Need to Know About Batteries and Power Systems for E-Bike Conversions

When it comes to converting your Trek bike into an electric bike, one of the most important things to consider is the battery and power system. The battery is often the most expensive and crucial component of an e-bike conversion. It’s important to invest in a high-quality battery with a sufficient watt-hour (Wh) capacity to power the electric motor.

Additionally, it’s essential to choose the right power system based on your intended use. If you plan to use your e-bike for commuting and short rides, a low-power motor and battery may be sufficient. However, if you plan to take longer rides or tackle steep hills, a more powerful motor and battery may be necessary. It’s also important to consider the weight of the battery and how it will affect the overall weight and balance of your bike. Carefully researching and selecting the right battery and power system can make all the difference in the performance and longevity of your e-bike conversion.

You may also like: Can an Electric Bike Function as a Regular Bike? Debunking Misconceptions and Exposing the Truth

How to Choose the Right E-Bike Conversion Kit for Your Trek Bike

When it comes to choosing the right e-bike conversion kit for your Trek bike, there are some important factors to consider. The first thing you need to decide is what type of motor you want. There are two main types of motors available – hub motors and mid-drive motors. Hub motors are easier to install and require less maintenance, but mid-drive motors provide better performance and efficiency.

You’ll also need to pay attention to the kit’s battery capacity and range. This will depend on how far you want to travel and what terrain you’ll be riding on. Other features to consider include the kit’s control unit, display and sensor technology. The right conversion kit will depend on your specific needs, so it’s important to do your research and choose a reputable brand that offers a warranty and good customer support.

Tips and Tricks for Installing an E-Bike Conversion Kit on Your Trek Bike

When installing an e-bike conversion kit on your Trek bike, there are a few tips and tricks to keep in mind to ensure a successful installation. First, make sure to carefully read and follow the instructions that come with the conversion kit. This will help you understand how all the components fit together and reduce the likelihood of making mistakes.

Next, it’s important to choose the right tools for the job. This can include wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers. Investing in quality tools can make the installation process smoother and prevent damage to your bike. It’s also crucial to take your time during the installation process, double-checking your work as you go to ensure all components are properly secured and functioning. By following these tips and tricks, you can install an e-bike conversion kit to your Trek bike with confidence.

Maintaining Your Converted Trek E-Bike: Care and Upkeep Tips

Maintaining your converted Trek e-bike is crucial to enjoy the benefits of a smooth ride for years to come. Some basic care and upkeep tips necessitate healthy e-bike maintenance practices to ensure optimum performance and longevity. Firstly, it’s critical to keep the battery charged to its full capacity and maintain the proper tire pressure. The battery should be charged after every ride, and if not in use, it’s advised to store it at around 60% charge to prevent overcharging or discharging.

Regular chain cleaning and lubrication are also required to avoid wear and tear and ensure the chain is running smoothly. In addition, you must regularly check the brake pads, brake fluid, and brake cables to make sure they’re functioning correctly. It’s critical to keep everything clean, especially the chain and brake components, as dirt and debris can cause them to malfunction. Maintaining a converted Trek e-bike is simple with regular upkeep and will offer a safe and enjoyable riding experience.

Related Post: The 10 Best Electric Hunting Bikes in 2023 – Reviews and Buyer’s Guide

Exploring the Benefits of Owning and Riding an Electric Trek Bike

Electric Trek bikes offer a multitude of benefits for riders of all levels. Firstly, electric bikes provide easier cycling by backing up your pedalling with an electric motor, reducing the effort required to cycle uphill or against the wind. This feature can be particularly appealing for those who may have struggled with traditional cycling or have physical limitations.

Moreover, electric Trek bikes can be a smart choice for commuters. They can get you to your destination quickly without breaking a sweat or consuming gas. They are also eco-friendly and have zero emissions, making them a green alternative to conventional transport modes. Additionally, with the electric motor and pedal assist, riders can save on cost by reducing the amount of energy expended. Overall, the benefits of riding an electric Trek bike are enormous and can help individuals reach their health, environmental, and transportation goals.

Final Words

To sum up, converting your Trek bike to electric is entirely possible with the availability of various conversion kits. However, it is important to keep in mind the cost and your cycling needs before deciding to undertake this project. If you have an older or damaged bike that you no longer use, conversion can be a cost-effective and eco-friendly alternative to buying a new electric bike.

In the end, converting your Trek bike to electric requires a bit of research and patience but can offer a great riding experience. With the many benefits such as cost, eco-friendliness, and the ability to customize your own e-bike, it is no wonder that more and more people are considering this option. So if you’re willing to take on the challenge, go ahead and electrify your Trek bike!

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trek farley 6 conversion advice

Thread starter Metalusion
Start date Sep 11, 2015

Active Member

Sep 11, 2015

thinking of pairing this bike (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) with the new bbshd when it is released i'm not going to do it myself. local bs will help. is this a good frame for a conversion with the mid drive motor? any help appreciated

Ravi Kempaiah

Well-known member.

Sep 12, 2015

You might want to do more research. Steel frame is generally preferred for 750w+ systems. I have read numerous reports of bent aluminum frame. Surly has pugsly model.... Check electric fat bike blog , that guy is an expert when it comes to fat bikes and BBS02

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Road Bike Rider Cycling Site

Expert road cycling advice, since 2001

How to Electrify an Existing Road Bike — With Help From the Ebike Underground

By Stan Purdum

Ebikes are a booming growth field in the bicycling industry, and many companies, including both established bike brands and new startups, are now churning out an impressive array of these electric two-wheelers, some as low priced as $500, with some quite good ones starting around $1,500.

But the commonly available ebikes in that price range generally do not include road bikes, which typically cost $5,000 or more in the e-version. But even some of the most dedicated road bike riders reach a point where, for any number of reasons, they may want to consider an ebike.

Looking for options other than buying a new bike, some riders have purchased a wheel — either front or rear — with a motor in the hub and converted a road bike they already own. Most of these conversions work pretty well.

But suppose you want to convert an existing road bike using a mid-drive motor — one that assists you in turning the cranks and transferring the power to the rear wheel by means of the chain. Advocates of mid-drive motors say that they provide higher performance and torque than hub-drive motors, offer a lower center of gravity on the bike and work more synergistically with the bike’s gears. The latter means the mid-drive motor is more efficient, making a longer mileage range possible. What’s more, with a mid-drive, changing a flat tire is no more difficult than on any non-electric bike, whereas it’s more of a project with a wheel that has a hub motor, and can range from complicated to impossible to do on the road.

So this is my account of installing a mid-drive motor on my 1995 Trek 520 touring bike. Though the 520 has some age and plenty of miles on it, it’s been maintained and is in decent condition. What’s more, I like the steady and stable ride it provides. It’s a chromoly steel steed, making it a good candidate. People experienced with mid-drive installations say both steel and aluminum frames are generally okay for such conversions, but carbon-fiber frames need to be individually evaluated. See “Carbon Fiber bikes and Bafang mid drive conversion.”

There are mid-drive kits available, and I choose a 750-watt motor from the Chinese motor maker Bafang (model BBS02) along with the kit and a 48V 14.5Ah battery, all sold in the United States by Ebike Essentials. Actually, I would have purchased a more powerful battery, but with the current worldwide supply chain problems, the one I wanted was not available, and the company wasn’t taking back orders. Nonetheless, the battery I got performs well and offers a range of up-to-93 miles per charge.

I got all of that, including shipping, for under $1,150. And I was helped in deciding what to order by my friend Don, from the “ebike underground.” That’s not an organization. It’s my collective term for people who are not part of the ebike industry, but who have figured out how make these conversions work as they should and have shared that knowledge in YouTube videos, discussion boards, blogs and other websites, and in some cases, directly from person to person with hands-on assistance. “Directly from person to person” describes Don, and his advice and guidance proved valuable throughout the installation process. Before helping me with my bike, Don had completed successful conversions of three tandem road bikes, including his own.

Other undergrounders were to help me later.

The package from Ebike Essentials arrived in a few days, but in checking the parts over, I noticed that they had sent me the wrong display and the wrong charger. When I contacted the company, they immediately sent out the correct items and included a postage paid label for me to mail back the incorrect ones.

Since the drive shaft of the motor has to be installed in the bottom bracket, replacing the crank axle, I first removed the entire crank and chainrings assembly from the 520, including the front derailleur and the bottom bracket cartridge. (The kit contains a new chainring and crank arms, made to work with the motor.)

Ebike Essentials has a helpful video on its site showing the steps of the installation.

When it came to the actual installation, Don recommended adding some waterproofing to the point on the motor where the wires come out. He dabbed on a product called “Liquid Electrical Tape,” and we let that dry overnight. The first problem in doing a road bike conversion is that the kits are intended for use on bikes with flat handlebars. My 520 has drop bars, which I like and had no wish to change. But using the drop bars required some ingenuity. For one thing, the mounting bracket on both the control unit and the throttle are a fixed size, set to match the diameter of typical flat bars. My drop bars were larger and thus neither of those devices would have mounted on them even if there were an available location. Fortunately, the display fit on my bars fine, with its two brackets straddling the stem.

From his previous experience electrifying his own bike, Don had a solution for the control unit mounting: From a piece of scrap aluminum and a short section of flat-bar-sized tubing, Don fashioned an arm that he attached to the down-curve of my handlebar, below the brake lever, using a radiator clamp (shown in the photo before I wrapped the handlebars with new tape). The “sleeve” on the arm is a length of inner tube.

I didn’t intend to use the throttle, and didn’t install it initially, but later I needed to set it up temporarily to diagnose a problem with the assist levels of the motor (more on that in a moment), so I used a piece of plastic plumbing pipe in the correct diameter. I tapered one end using a sander, until it slipped into the left end of my handlebar. I secured it into the bar end with a thick adhesive, and mounted the throttle to that. It was as easy to use the throttle in that location as was the bar-end shifter that had been there before I removed the front derailleur.

The other issue with using the kit on drop bar bikes is that the kit’s brake levers are for flat-bar bikes and don’t fit my setup. They have wires that connect to the motor to stop it when the brakes are applied. Don advised me that I didn’t need to stop the brakes electrically as long as I simply stopped pedaling when braking with my existing road-bike levers. The electric braking could be more important if I were keeping the throttle, since there is a small possibility that it could stick in the “on” position. But since I wasn’t intending to use the throttle, I could simply not use the kit’s brake levers. See here for more on the matter of ebrakes on ebikes.

When the assembly was complete, both Don and I test rode the bike, and it seemed to us that no electric assist could be felt or discerned in PAS (Pedal Assist System) levels 1 and 2 (out of nine assist levels total). From 3-9, the assist was ample, evident and increased with each successive level.

I contacted the support team at Ebike Essentials — they deal only by email, but they responded within a few hours. They requested that I install the throttle, even if only temporarily, to determine if the motor was driving the chain in levels 1 and 2. To make the test, I set the bike up in a trainer, hooked up the throttle and ran it in both levels. The throttle caused motor to move the chain, turning the back wheel in both settings, without turning the pedals (which is what it is supposed to do). That convinced the support team that the motor was operating properly.

One support tech wrote “PAS levels 1 and 2 on our most current & up to date motors have been detuned so that the motor would not be as fast in lower PAS levels and so our customers would have more incremental power resolution as PAS levels are increased from 0 through 9.”

I was unpersuaded, however, and wrote back, asking, “Did your ‘detuning’ of the motor go too low? If technically the motor is assisting at levels 1 and 2 but I as the rider feel no assist, then in reality, there is no effective assist at those levels.”

The reply came from a different tech, who contradicted the first one and said, “Our motors are not detuned and are programmed to operate at full power.” He also said, “Believe it or not, you are the only and first customer to ever have this critique as our customers seem to enjoy having access to more incremental levels of power.”

He did go on to say, however, that if I sent the motor back at my expense, they would reprogram it so that levels 1-3 all ran at 40% power. That made no sense to me. What was the value of having three settings that performed exactly the same?

And I’d already been looking around the internet and found several YouTube videos from Bafang motor purchasers who weren’t satisfied with the PAS settings (so I may have been the “only and first customer” to complain about the settings to the Ebike Essentials team, but I wasn’t the only and first to be dissatisfied with the settings.)

The people making these videos were part of the ebike underground, showing how they hacked the motor settings themselves and got things operating as they wished. Here’s a good video on YouTube. As I continued to search, I found where undergrounders had recommended what was needed to do the job oneself. So I thanked the Ebike Essential team for their offer and moved on.

The first thing needed to reprogram the motor is ebike conversion software, available as a free download from Penoff’s Hobby Page. Apparently, at some previous time, there was a configuration app from Bafang, which was laden with bugs and didn’t work very well. But Stefan Penov (his name is spelled differently from the page title) started with that and made it better, and then released it as an open-source app.

On his hobby page, Penov says, “Basically I took the original software which also included all required source files and made it look better, fixed many bugs, improved its operation and added a small help file. Now you don’t need administrative rights under windows 8 and 10 to be able to see the available COM ports. The interface looks more tidy and well aligned and also uses better English. Numerous bugs were fixed, regarding error messages and error checking, communication, parameter limits and so on. I found this program as an open source (including all source files). I am providing it the same way.”

Armed with Penov’s app, I then ordered a programming cable that connects the USB on one’s computer to the BBS02 controller cable. I found this on Amazon, where there are several on offer. (Search on “bafang motor programming cable.”) Look for one that includes the driver. I didn’t think of that and then had to search the web for the driver separately. I found the driver free here .

The step-by-step help file that Penov included with his app guided me in looking at every setting.

I also found some good advice here , including info about a setting when not using the ebrakes.

As the motor came from Ebike Essentials, every PAS level, 1 through 9, supposedly provides 10% more motor power from the previous PAS level, as follows, though I can’t verify that levels 1 and 2 were actually performing as marked:

PAS 0 – 0 % Speed & Current

PAS 1 – 20 % Speed & Current

PAS 2 – 30 % Speed & Current

PAS 3 – 40 % Speed & Current

PAS 4 – 50 % Speed & Current

PAS 5 – 60 % Speed & Current

PAS 6 – 70 % Speed & Current

PAS 7 – 80 % Speed & Current

PAS 8 – 90 % Speed & Current

PAS 9 – 100 % Speed & Current

In any case, once in the app, I tried a few different changes, and I found that it didn’t require major increases to feel the assist in levels 1 and 2 — just a few percentage points in both speed and current, but it was enough to make each assist level useful.

So far, the only other thing I reprogrammed via the app was the wheel size, which had a default of 26 inches. With the 520 being a road bike, I reset it for 700c, which was an option on the pulldown list.

I’m by no means an expert in all of this, but the help from Don and others from the ebike underground, plus a computer-savvy cycling friend, enabled me to complete the conversion so that I’m on the road again on my surefooted Trek 520 — or maybe I should say E520 — and loving it.

I’m not happy with that the handlebar connections look homemade and inelegant (though they work fine), but I’m hoping that as the ebike world continues to grow, better options for adapting to drop bars will become available.

It’s not the only road bike I own, just the only e-road-bike. I expect to still be riding the others for some time to come. But there are some monster hills in my area where a bit of e-push will be welcome as I age.

Stan Purdum has ridden several long-distance bike trips, including an across-America ride recounted in his book Roll Around Heaven All Day , and a trek on U.S. 62, from Niagara Falls, New York, to El Paso, Texas, the subject of his book Playing in Traffic . Stan, a freelance writer and editor, lives in Ohio. See more at www.StanPurdum.com .

Reader Interactions

November 25, 2021 at 7:50 am

I converted my titanium frame road bike with a bafang mid-drive motor. All levels of assist work as expected. No “reprograming” necessary. For a solution to the cockpit clutter, I installed a bar on the front stem (about $12.00). I found it on Amazon. It provides enough length for the display, throttle, and PAS controller. This leaves the handlebars for what you normally put on them.

November 25, 2021 at 9:18 am

Thanks for the good info. Glad your install went smoothly.

November 25, 2021 at 9:20 am

Arthur, Did you use the brake levers?

February 5, 2023 at 12:58 pm

I did not add the brake sensors

November 25, 2021 at 11:49 pm

Guday from Aus. Gone down the ebike track. I’m 78 and getting left behind by the group i ride with so with this machine i should be able to keep up. Was going to convert my custom build scandium frame bike but on advise from my LBM had to get another bike as my frame was to lightly built to handle the stresses of conversion. and my wheels were not strong enough either. Bother. Picked it up a couple of days ago so haven’t had a chance to ride it yet. The bike is a Merlin double butted alloy framed gravel bike. I have installed a 350w TongSheng TDSZ2. The reason I decided to go this way was that this setup commences assisting the moment pedaling commences. There are groups who assist in tweaking the software if and when necessary but I will wait to check out the stock system, before I go down that track. So we shall see what we shall see:-)))

March 14, 2022 at 3:23 pm

Well been riding riding my ebike conversion for four months now with about 1300km. Absolutely loving it. Something I didn’t mention in my last post was that I chose to use the 350w Tongsheng mid drive unit. Gave the supplier what I was doing on my rides and he set the program up prior to sending the unit top me. Very satisfied with what has been done. On windy days I tend to be in the front leading the peleton and providing the windbreak for the rest of the riders. No longer am I a long way back and have no problems climbing. I tend to ride in the lowest poer setting most of the time then use the higher levels when needed on a climb. So far have not used the top level of power. I use the power settings as if they were a front derailleur.

January 13, 2022 at 4:56 am

Hi, John here from Aus. I also have a Trek 520 that I want to convert using a Bafang kit. A couple of questions: – Did you get a 750 W system because you feel that much power is needed because tourers normally carry a lot of weight when touring. That seems like a lot of power, I had thought a 500 W mid drive would be enough?

– Trek 520s come with V brake systems, Did you change wheels to disk brakes?

– Since you installed those work-arounds for control unit and throttle, have you found a more elegant solution?

Thanks in advance John

January 13, 2022 at 7:11 am

John, I purchased the 750 W system because it is the smallest Bafang offers. I knew in advance that it would be overkill, but friends who have converted their bikes told me it would work fine. I’m not using the 520 now for touring, but it would easily handle that task with the 750 system.

My 520 has traditional cantilever brakes. I did not change them. They work fine with the ebike setup.

I have not found a more elegant solution for the control workaround, but the longer I have used it, the more satisfied I am with it. The have removed the throttle altogether because I don’t want that crutch.

Best wishes with your conversion

January 13, 2022 at 8:52 pm

Thanks Stan. Sorry, don’t understand when you say 750W is the smallest Bafang offers because they have 250W and 500W systems and I had thought the 500W, 48V system would be suitable. John

January 14, 2022 at 1:03 am

John, Are you talking mid-drive motors? I think Bafang has smaller watt systems in hub drive motors, But I wanted mid-drive, and I see only 750 W and 1000 W systems for that from Bafang.. Stan

January 14, 2022 at 1:45 am

Since writing the reply above, it occurs to me that since you are in Australia, you are probably looking at a different seller of Bafang motors. Here in the USA, I have gotten my Bafang motor from Ebike Essentials, and the 1000 W and the 750 W are the only two sizes they offer in mid-drive motors.

January 14, 2022 at 4:28 am

OK thanks, yes it appears to be different here, there are 250, 350, 500, 750 and 1000 Watt mid-drive systems. Thanks for your help John

February 4, 2023 at 3:33 pm

I enjoyed the article as I am converting a Dawes Super Galaxy touring bike with drop bars using a Yose Power rear wheel 250W kit.

The hiccups I have dealt with so far: Hollowtech bottom bracket – used an alternative PAS sensor and magnet ring on the right side rather than the kit’s left side sensor. Luckily, I already had a tool to remove the bottom bracket. Display and throttle mounting – as Arthur B, I have added a short bar of the right diameter in front of the dropped bars – no effect on connecting cables! Cable management – rather than zip ties, I made maximum use of various size electrical P clips bolted to the available frame mounts – very neat with up to 3 clips per mount! Water bottle mount positions – bottom one too low to fit battery, I used a rivnut in a drilled hole (with added epoxy because of the small radius of the top of the pear shaped downtube). A no drill alternative: to this would be a water bottle mount position adjuster.. Battery support. – I plan to add a third fixing point using a rivnut higher up the downtube and also ‘bent’ 40 x 40 angle brackets fixed to rivnut mounting positions on the sides of the downtube to avoid sideways rocking of the ‘huge,’ wide battery! Rear brake sensor – I plan to use an alternative rear brake sensor fixed to top tube, with a magnet glued to a bent electrical terminal crimped onto the exposed rear brake wire. Front brake sensor – sensor will be glued to a short upstand metal L upstand fixed to a metal front light bracket bolted to the top of the forks, with the magnet fixed to the brake cable as for the rear brake sensor. Alernative brake sensors – consider In-line brake sensors (two types depending on orientation) as a neater option but these require the brake wires to be threaded through them, which may lead to needing new wires if the existing are frayed.

Hiccup yet to be sorted: The level of assistance power seems minimal and not affected by the throttle or the PAS setting. I think it is the setup settings that are incorrect (possibly due to the PAS sensor being mounted on the right side rather than the left). I have emailed Yose Power and await enlightenment.

I hope the notes above are useful and would be happy for any thought on the power issue.

February 5, 2023 at 1:02 pm

Right side pas sensor doesn’t work. I tried and it wouldn’t respond. Went back to left side and it was fine.

February 5, 2023 at 3:37 pm

Glad you found a solution.

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The best electric bike conversion kits 2024 and how to fit them

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Best electric bike conversion kits: Swytch Max battery on a handlebar

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Easiest to fit, best mid-drive for weight, most affordable rear hub, best for off-road, best for compatibility, best value front hub.

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Best electric conversion kits 2024: Jump Menu

The list in brief ↴

1. Easiest to fit 2. Best mid-drive for weight 3. Most affordable

Advice How to convert your bike in four steps Why convert your bike?

The best electric bike conversion kits can give you an extra boost of power without the expense of purchasing a new electric bike. We've fitted some of the best e-bike conversion kits ourselves, so will walk you through the process, how easy it is and how the different systems perform.

E-bikes are soaring in popularity – and for good reason. The best electric bikes replace a car for running errands around town and greatly increase the distances it’s possible to ride on one of the best commuter bikes . An e-bike can also be a great tool for boosting your fitness, whether that’s enabling you to ride with a greater range of people or offering the motivation of a greater range of roads to explore.

But is an e-bike worth it, ? As the best ebike conversion kits promise to add power to an 'analogue' bike for a lot less than a full ebike, it's an easy, cheaper way to get an electric boost.

In this guide we’ll take you through the surprisingly broad range of benefits an e-bike conversion kit has to offer and – most importantly – how to perform an e-bike conversion, based on our hands-on experience. For a walk-through on how to do it, you can check out the video above or read on for a step-by-step guide – it genuinely is so much simpler than you would think.

When buying an ebike conversion kit there are a number of factors you’ll need to consider. Most importantly you’ll need a kit that will fit your bike. To help with this it pays to take a few frame measurements, notably the width of your forks and the width of the rear stays, as well as noting the wheel size and the type of brakes. You can then match these details to the kit specifications.

Naturally you’ll also need to consider the cost and how much you chose to spend on an ebike conversion kit will be dictated by not only your budget but also your needs. If you’re unsure of just how much you’ll use the converted bike then it’s prudent to opt for a cheaper kit - you can always upgrade down the road.

You’ll also want to consider where the motor will be located, and match this to your bike and your mechanical prowess. Front hub motors are typically the easiest to fit, while mid-drive motors require more effort. A rear hub motor lies somewhere in between the two, and like a front hub option is applicable to a wide range of bikes.

Other considerations include the type of battery and the wattage rating - 36 or 48 volt battery is standard, with wattage usually running from 300 to 600 watts.

The Swytch kit is super-simple: just swap out your front wheel, wire up the controller and battery and you're off. The battery is also very compact, allowing you to remove it from the bike easily to carry with you.

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The Swytch e-bike conversion kit is compact, light and easy to fit

1. Swytch eBike Conversion Kit

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Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

The newly updated Swytch system is one of the simplest conversion kits to fit out there. The latest version, launched last August, has a smaller, neater battery pack that improves the bike's dynamics and lowers its weight. There's the choice of the Air battery (700g, range 15km) or the Max battery (1,100g, range 30km). Both use the same mount, which places the battery to the front of the handlebar.

The motor sits in the front hub and we found it to be pretty discreet. Incidentally, the new batteries will work with the original motor and pedal sensor, so if you already own the original kit you can upgrade it with just a new battery without having to buy the whole kit again.

The Swytch kit is incredibly easy to fit. It took us around 30 minutes working at a steady pace.

We tested it on both a reasonably light two-speed steel bike and a heavier Pinnacle utility bike. It transformed the ride of the two-speed bike, making it fast, nimble and responsive. We also found the stated range to be conservative: after 20 miles on setting number two (medium assist) it had only used two bars out of five on the battery.

With the heavier Pinnacle on maximum assist (and on draggy routes) we were getting slightly under the 30km for the Max battery. As with all e-bike batteries, range depends on the terrain, weight of bike and level of assist.

Great customer support makes this one of the best kits for people who are new to working on their bike and who aren't familiar with electrics. And even if you do have a strong background in both those areas, a simple system is always appreciated.

Read more: Swytch eBike Conversion Kit full review

You can choose your own battery to go with the TongSheng mid-drive motor

2. TongSheng TSDZ2 Mid Drive Motor

Like the Bafang mid-drive system below, the TongSheng offers the same benefits of compatibility with a wide range of bike designs and a high torque for steep hills and off-road terrain. However, the TongSheng mid-drive does manage to be a little lighter than the Bafang for approximately the same power.

This model doesn't come with a battery included, so you'll have to source your own 36v item. As a rule of thumb, around 10Ah will give a range of 29km / 18mi, whereas going up to 18Ah will typically give around 53km / 33mi, so be sure to factor that in when you're making your choice.

There's a huge range of batteries sold on Amazon, but Green Cell is a particular brand we'd recommend.

We found fitting to be reasonably easy. As with most mid-drive systems, you replace your crank and chainring with the one provided in the kit. There's an LCD display for attaching to your handlebars and you'll need a battery to be hooked up to the motor.

Read more: TongSheng TSDZ2 ebike conversion kit full review

A rear wheel swap adds a hub motor with the Voilamart kit

3. Voilamart 48V rear wheel kit

We've also tested the Voilamart kit, which comes with six main parts: the replacement rear wheel, the replacement brake levers, the control screen, pedal sensor, throttle and the control box. It doesn't come with a battery however.

On review we found the kit pretty straightforward to fit, although you'll need to remove the bike's crank to fit the pedal sensor and this element of the conversion was a bit fiddly. Another potential drawback is that the connectors, which link to control unit, aren't waterproof, with only a bag supplied to house the delicate electronics. While it does a good job of keeping everything tidy, we decided to buy a plastic enclosure, cut the wires to length, solder the connections and then heat shrink for added protection.

As for the ride, the rear wheel kit delivers plenty of power. However, since the pedal sensor only detects when you're pedalling rather than how hard you're pedalling it delivers the power as soon as your start to turn the crank arms. Fortunately, you can quickly adjust the level assistance, with five power options available.

All in all the Voliamart rear wheel kit is an affordable way to 'go electric', although it requires you to be mechanical competent to fit it and you'll need to factor in the additional cost of a battery.

Read more: Voilamart e-bike conversion kit review

The Bafang motor provides 80Nm torque

4. Bafang Mid Motor Kit

A mid-motor drive system offers a number of benefits over hub-driven conversion kits. With the power delivered at the cranks it can produce more torque, making it more effective on particularly steep and bumpy terrain.

Another perk is that the compatibility is much greater – no concern about wheel diameters , hub widths, axle standards and brake type . No matter whether you're running rim brakes or disc, quick release or thru-axle, the crank driven system is compatible with all.

The only proviso is that the frame material must be alloy and the bottom bracket width is 68–73mm – but that covers most bikes you're likely to be fitting this system to.

There are a few aspects to be aware of, the first being that this system doesn't include a battery and that typically makes up about half the cost of a conversion kit. Finding an e-bike battery is quite straightforward with many being sold on Amazon, with Green Cell being among those we'd recommend.

Just make sure to get a 36V one for this motor as a higher voltage can damage it. Also you should be aware that capacity of 10Ah will give you a range of about 29km / 18mi, while a capacity of 18Ah typically gives about 53km / 33mi – so be sure to factor in the distances you're planning on riding.

The Rubbee X is quick to fit

5. Rubbee X Wireless Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit

This radically different approach from Rubbee makes for an e-bike conversion with much fewer parts. The battery and motor are housed in a single unit which powers the bike directly turning the rear wheel with its integrated roller.

Not only is the initial installation notably fast and easy, the quick release system means that you can take off the unit for rides that you don't wish to be assisted on. At 2.8kg, it doesn't add much weight to that of the bike, making the bike easier to handle.

The range of this model is quite low, limited to Eco mode it only offers a range of 16km / 10mi – although taking the device off to charge at the other end is easy to do and it only takes an hour to top up. There is the option to increase your range by buying additional battery modules that fit into the base unit.

Up to three can be accommodated, which in turn increases the maximum range to 48km / 30mi, or around 23km / 14mi with moderately heavy use. However, unlike many other e-bike systems, the Rubbee X supports regenerative braking, allowing you to scrub back some power on the descents.

The Bafang front hub motor makes for quick set-up

6. Bafang front hub motor kit

Bafang is a well established maker of electric bike motors and offers a front hub based motor, if you’re not a fan of the bulky profile a mid motor conversion system creates. You can buy this kit without a battery – although why would you? – but if you sensibly also opt for a power-pack there's a choice of amp hours, and you can select either a downtube or a rear-rack mounted version.

The setup follows the same principles as most front-wheel e-bike conversions. First you need to set up the wheel with a disc rotor , tire and inner tube and install that into the bike. Then attach the cadence sensor – so it can tell when you're pedalling and need assistance – then attach the battery and the LCD display and you're essentially good to go!

It's worth bearing in mind that although this conversion kit comes in many different wheel sizes, it is only compatible with bikes that have a front disc brake and a Quick-Release axle. If your disc brake bike is a newer, more expensive model, it might not be compatible, so worth checking first.

Remember, that in the UK electric bike laws mean that e-bikes are not permitted to have a power output of more than 250w and shouldn't propel the bike when it's travelling more than 15.5mph – you'll have to make sure you select the right model with the relevant limitations.

How to convert your bike to an e-bike in four steps

Here's our step-by-step guide to how to add an electric bike conversion kit to your pedal-powered bike.

1. Swap the tire and tube

You can trust Cycling Weekly. Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

First remove your tire and tube

Firstly, remove the tire and tube from your current front wheel and then install them on the new wheel from the kit. Make sure to check if the tire is directional, if it is, ensure that the tire is mounted so that the cable sticking out of the hub is on the left-hand side (non-driveside) when the wheel is installed in the bike – otherwise it’ll be powered in the opposite direction to your direction of travel!

To swap the tire and tube over, you will need some tire levers and a pump. If you want to go over how to do these, we have a guide that can be accessed here.

Final points are to do up the nuts on the wheel’s axle to keep it firmly in place in the forks and to check that the brakes are correctly adjusted for the new wheel. If you’re unsure how to do that, we have another guide here.

2. Attach the bracket to the handlebars

Next attach the bracket to the handlebars

There is a strap that needs to be attached to the bars to keep the bracket in place and stop it rotating around. There are also some adaptors included in the kit which can be used if your handlebars are a little skinnier.

But essentially all that’s needed to be done here is a couple of screws to clamp the bracket tightly to the bars.

3. Attach magnet disc and sensor

Attach the pedal sensor unit to the bike

The magnet disc has a split design so it can just clip around the inside of the left (non-driveside crank) and is then held in place by its retention ring. Next, stick the sensor on the frame directly in line with the magnets – this will ensure that the sensor can tell when the cranks are moving.

4. Plug in the cables

Finally wire everything up

The thickest one is the main power cable and that just needs to be plugged into the cable extending from the hub. The other orange cable attaches to the cadence sensor and this just needs plugging in as well.

It’s then a good idea to use some cable ties to tidy up the lengths of the cables a little bit, so they aren’t flapping about and risk getting caught on the spokes or on the cranks.

The blue cables, you don’t need to worry about, these are for an optional brake sensor upgrade kit.

Why convert your bike to an e-bike?

What types of conversion kit are available.

You can get conversion kits that power your front or rear wheel or power the bikes via the cranks.

Wheel-based systems usually have a hub motor and require replacement of your existing wheel with a compatible motorised one.

The alternative is a system like the Rubbee that drives your wheel by pushing on the tire. Tire wear can be an issue here though.

Finally, there are systems that power the e-bike via the bottom bracket.

Usually the e-bike's battery will bolt onto your frame or be attached to your handlebars, although sometimes you can fit a battery pack to a rear rack.

We've more on compatibility - which can be an issue - below.

How much does it cost to convert a bike to an e-bike?

Prices vary depending on the type of conversion kit and the size of the battery. To give a rough band, you can expect to pay a total of between £500 and £800 from a reputable brand, but there will be outliers at either end.

Is it worth converting a bike to an e-bike?

There are many reasons to upgrade your bike to offer a little e-assistance. On the one hand, it can greatly increase the usefulness of your bike, enabling you to replace short car journeys – such as around town, to the shops, or to work – with going by bike instead.

It’s a lot more environmentally friendly getting about on two wheels than in a two-ton metal box. It can also save you time – bikes are able to take more direct routes and are less affected by traffic, as well as eliminating the need to search for a parking space at the other end.

But beyond just their practical benefits, e-bikes can also be a potent tool for boosting your fitness. Consistency is key when it comes to exercise, so making commitments with friends is a great way to ensure you’re heading out the door. Previously, differing fitness levels could make it difficult to find a riding partner but with an e-bike levelling the playing field, getting in a productive workout (for both of you) with a friend is much easier to do.

Added to that, an e-bike can be much more motivating in that it opens up a far greater range of roads than you’d be able to access just under the power of your own two legs. Exploring new roads is part of the fun of riding a bike and an e-bike can help preserve that.

Can you convert any regular bike to an e-bike?

Most bikes can be converted to an e-bike – it just requires getting the matching the right conversion kit to match the specification.

For conversion kits where the motor is located at the wheel’s hub, you’ll need to consider the wheel’s diameter, the width and axle standard of the hub and whether it uses rim or disc brakes. For instance, a 700c (AKA, 28”) disc brake wheel with a 100mm wide quick-release hub is a relatively common spec. Once you’ve determined what type of wheel you need, the conversion is quite a straightforward process

Crank driven systems are generally easier in terms of determining compatibility; the requirements are typically just an alloy frame and a bottom bracket width of between 68 and 73mm – which is the standard for all road and mountain bikes, it’s only specialist bikes that have a different spacing there. In replacing the crankset, these systems are a bit more involved to fit than a hub system, but still well within the remit of a home mechanic.

Other kits, such as those that directly drive the rear tire, have almost universal compatibility – provided your tires aren’t too heavily treaded.

Are electric bike conversion kits any good?

You won’t be getting the very best motors and the largest, seamlessly integrated batteries with an e-bike conversion kit. But with that said, e-bike conversion kits are much cheaper than purchasing a whole new e-bike and they do deliver many of the same benefits.

Converted e-bikes are great for commuting and utility cycling, giving that extra boost to help flatten hills, motor along the flat and lug about heavy loads. E-bike conversions are also good for leisure cycling, helping to moderate your effort level as needed and greatly extending the range you can explore.

For more specialist utility needs, buying a new cargo e-bike would help boost your carrying capacity and range. Equally, for the aesthetically conscious, the latest breed of e-road bikes are almost indistinguishable from a non-powered bike at first glance. Then again, both those options are much more expensive than a conversion.

How we test

Where we've been able to link to a review, it means that we've put the ebike conversion kit through its paces. We've assessed how easy it is to fit and maintain as well other factors such as quality of the components and battery life and charge time. Riding the bike once fitted with the kit, we've taken into account the ride quality, the ease of use and the battery range.

Where we haven't yet had the chance to review an item, we're still confident in recommending it as one of the best, because we either know the brand really well, and have probably tested another product or the previous version and can still happily recommend it as one of the best.

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Rob has been Content Director of Cycling Weekly - and stablemates Bikeperfect, Cyclingnews.com and MBR - since May 2021. Before that he spent two years in similar role at Bikeradar, which followed 12-years as Editor-in-chief of Cycling Plus magazine and eight years at Runner's World. In his time as a cycling journalist he's ridden from London to Paris at least twice, London to Bristol once, completed the Fred Whitton Challenge, L'Etape du Tour and Maratona dles Dolomites. He's also jumped into the broom-wagon at La Marmotte and Oetzaler Radmarathon.

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CYC MOTOR MID DRIVE EBIKE CONVERSION KITS

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We are a team of ebike and EV enthusiasts with one mission: to redefine the boundaries of bikes by bringing you technology that will change the way you think. Unlocking potential and power like never before.

Why? eBikes are changing transportation as we know it, and we believe your bike can be an extension of yourself- equipped for your style, ride, and personality. We don't just provide tech to do this, but we enable you to customize your ride the way you want it.

The 6 Best E-Bike Conversion Kits of 2024

Here's how to add some oomph to your favorite two-wheeler.

Heidi Wachter was a senior editor at Experience Life magazine for 10 years. She has written for publications like Experience Life, Shondaland, and betterpet.

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Treehugger / Chloe Jeong

E-bikes are easier on the environment than cars . They’re also easier to pedal than a standard person-powered two-wheeler. You get as much exercise riding an e-bike as you do a traditional bike. Thanks to improved technology and more people interested in alternative transit methods, e-bikes are also becoming more available—and more affordable.

But no electric bike is as cheap (or as green) as the bike you already own. If you’re trying to reduce your carbon footprint , living in a small space, or practicing minimalism , using what you have on hand can be a win-win decision. So, if you love your current ride but want to add some juice for getting uphill or powering your cargo bike when carrying a heavy load, you can, thanks to electric bike converter kits. You will need a battery, sensors, controls, and a motorized wheel or a drive unit to electrify your bike—kits contain most or all of these components.

Here are the best options for upgrading your bike with an e-bike conversion kit.

Best Overall

Bafang ebike conversion kit.

Since 2003, Bafang has been a leader in manufacturing e-mobility components and complete e-drive systems. Its products offer outstanding performance and reliability, and the BBS02B conversion kit is no exception, making it our top overall choice.

This mid-drive motor kit is versatile and compatible with road, commuter, and mountain bicycles. All you need is a bike with a 68-73 millimeter bottom bracket and the battery of your choice. Installation is relatively easy, and the battery is included. Once the kit is installed, you’ll be ready to tackle any hill.

Although several different conversion kits are available online from Bafang, those with more than 750 watts of power will be considered motorcycles in the United States.

Best Budget

Bafang 48v 500w electric bicycle conversion kits.

This front-wheel E-bike conversion kit is easy to set up and easy on your wallet. Electrify your bike in one hour by following the installation video and manual. Don’t forget to choose the correct wheel size!

After setup is complete, ride around the town with pedal assist or switch to e-bike mode for longer trips. Commuters, long-distance trekkers, and mountain bikers can cruise up to 24 miles per hour. The battery is not included.

Best for Commuting

Swytch universal ebike conversion kit.

Swytch BIKE

Daily riders will love this easy-to-install, lightweight e-bike conversion kit. It is compatible with most mountain, road, hybrid, and step-through bikes, and disc brakes.

It’s as easy to install as swapping out your front tire. The controller and battery are combined into a 34.2-Volt power pack, which is included in the kit and mounts to the handlebars. That makes it easy to remove and keeps thieves at bay, but our tester did miss having the use of a handle bar basket. The battery pack is fitted with indicator lights that tell you how much juice remains and what assist mode you’re in. Once the system is set up correctly, you’ll be able to top out at 15-25 mph.

"In general, I love it. It makes my ride easier without feeling like I’m riding a giant bulky e-bike. It’s got a phenomenal amount of power for such a little machine and seems like it has a good battery life too." ~ Treehugger Tester

Best Premium

Ebikeling waterproof direct drive rear ebike conversion kit.

Do you want to go farther or faster? You can do both with this setup from Ebikeling, with its 500-watt motor. Ebikeling makes it easy to buy different compatible batteries and other accessories in an à la carte way. There are seven different batteries that come in different shapes (bottle, triangle, rectangular) so that you can pick the one that suits your bike and needs best.

The double-walled rim and motor are ready to install right out of the box—just swap them out for your original bike tire. An LCD screen is included to help you stay within your town’s speed limit. You can choose between a front or rear mount and a thumb or half-twist throttle.

Most Powerful

Aw electric bicycle motor kit.

Thanks to a 48-volt, 1000-watt battery, the AW wheel E-bike conversion kit satisfies anyone with the need for speed. A thumb throttle makes speed control simple. This kit is available as either a front-wheel or back-wheel conversion option. It fits any 26-inch bike frame with a 3.9-inch front dropout spacing (for a front wheel conversion) or 5.3-inch rear dropout spacing (for a back wheel conversion). The rear wheel kit weighs 24.7 pounds; the front wheel kit weighs 23.5 pounds.

The aluminum frame offers durability and stability, essential when rolling at top speeds of 28 miles per hour. Hand brakes turn the motor off automatically to both improve safety and conserve battery power.

Easiest to Install

Rubbee x conversion kit.

If you want the fastest conversion possible and even the option to take a motor off your bike quickly, the Rubbee X makes it a snap. The Rubbee X gives you a boost by resting against the rear tire and has a special release that lets you remove the motor without un-mounting the entire system. You control the power just by pedaling, as a wireless cadence sensor that gets mounted to the pedal crank sends information to the motor, which shifts automatically without any additional user interface.

This conversion kit has some other nice features. It has tail lights on the back of the motor to give you some additional visibility when riding at night. The base model comes with one battery, which weighs 6.1 pounds, gives you 250 watts of power, and has a top speed of 16 mph. Upgraded models have two or three additional batteries, each offering more speed and power but also adding more weight. It’s compatible with any frame type and with tires that are between 0.5 and 2.5 inches in width and between 16 and 29 inches in diameter.

There are a few things to keep in mind before you buy. First, the product ships from the European Union, so an additional import tax may exist. Second, you’ll want to make sure you have plenty of room on your seat post to connect the motor.

Whenever you’re buying a newer technology, sticking with a known brand makes sense. That makes Bafang’s E-bike conversion kits a sound choice—in terms of quality and price. If speed is what you’re after, the kits from Ebikeling .

What to Consider When Shopping for an E-Bike Conversion Kit

Is the battery included? You’ll need something to power and charge your e-bike conversion kit. Many kits include a battery. Cheaper kits may not, though, which means you’ll need to source a compatible battery separately.

You'll also want to think about your power needs. The higher the motor wattage, the more power you'll get. A 250-watt motor is typically plenty of power to make the daily commute less sweaty. If you want to take your converted bike out on tougher mountain trails, you'll want more power.

Keep in mind that according to U.S. federal regulations, e-bikes with more than 750 watts of power are considered motor vehicles and require a motorcycle license.

You’ll want to check your state and local laws as some cities and towns have banned e-bikes from bicycle paths, so if that’s where you want to ride, you’ll want to make sure your town allows your upgraded bike to cruise around on them.

E-bikes come in three classes:

Class 1 E-bikes that assist you while you pedal and top out about 20 mph.
Class 2 E-bikes have a throttle that assists you regardless of whether you pedal and have a top speed of 20 mph.
Class 3 E-bikes assist you while you pedal and top out about 28 mph.

Drive Type and Installation

There are several kinds of e-bike conversion kits, and the ease of set-up and installation varies.

Friction Drive Conversion is a simple strategy. A roller pushes against the tire on the wheel. When the roller turns, the wheel turns. It’s a reasonably easy system to set up but sometimes isn’t the most effective.
Mid-Drive Conversion is the technology that the best e-bikes tend to use. A weight sits at a low point on the bike frame, and the power is applied to the crank. These can be more expensive, but the technology is typically better. There’s no standardization, however, which can make figuring out exactly what you need to make your bike work a little more challenging. Adding the parts is also a bit more complex than friction drive conversion.
Electric Bike Wheel Conversion swaps out a non-electrified front or rear wheel with an electrified one. The process is simple depending on where and how the battery mounts—such as on a rear rack. Once installed, weight distribution can feel natural. However, powering the front wheel may impact your bike’s handling.

The difficulty of installation depends of the type of conversion kit, as well as your comfort with the tools required. But generally speaking, converting your bike is a DIY project. Many manufacturers offer how-to videos that show what’s involved, so you can see ahead of time what you’ll need to do.

You’ll need a bike tool, crank arm tool, adjustable wrenches, and a screwdriver along with your electric bike conversion kit.

These demos can show you how to install your e-bike conversion kit.

A visit to your local bike shop mechanic is a helpful step in the decision-making process. They can help you determine if your bike is a good candidate for electric technology.

Your old bike may not be able to be converted because adding a motor can increase torque. You’ll want to make sure your bike’s drivetrain can handle it.

The extra weight from adding an electric motor also impacts your brakes, so you’ll want to make sure they are effective for stopping at a higher speed. E-bikes tend to have disk brakes for this reason. If your current bike is in disrepair, has old parts, or needs other improvements, it may be more cost-effective to sell your trusty old ten speed and buy an e-bike .

Also, consider that a quality electric bike conversion kit can be nearly the cost of an electric bike. Do some comparison shopping between the price of a conversion kit and a fully-loaded e-bike before you decide which way you want to roll. Our picks for the best e-bikes may help guide your decision.

Why Trust Treehugger?

Treehugger has reported on dozens of e-bikes and e-bike conversion options over the past decade. To make this list, we deeply researched the market by reading other third-party reviews, user comments, and enthusiasts blogs. We also considered the product’s value and the manufacturer’s reputation.

Author Heidi Wachter has been writing about travel and adventure for over a decade. When she’s not writing, you’ll likely find her riding one of her six bicycles—even in the winter.

Philips, Ian, et al. " E-Bike Carbon Savings - How Much and Where? " Centre for Research into Energy Demand Solutions.

Castro, Alberto, et al. " Physical Activity of Electric Bicycle Uses Compared to Conventional Bicycle Users and Non-Cyclists: Insights Based on Health and Transport Data From an Online Survey in Seven European Cities ." Transportation Research Interdisciplinary Perspectives , vol. 1, 2019, pp. 100017., doi:10.1016/j.trip.2019.100017

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Electric bike conversion kits – Add a motor to your bike

Upgrade your bike with our comprehensive guide to electric bike conversion kits and how to use them

The list in brief
Best overall
Best budget
Easiest installation
Best for blending in
Best for configuration
Best for dealer support
Most natural ride feel

Types of e-bike conversion kits

How to choose

1. The list in brief 2. Best overall 3. Best budget option 4. Best for easy installation 5. Best for blending in 6. Best for custom configuration 7. Best for bike shop support 8. Best for natural ride feel 9. Types of e-bike conversion kit 10. How to choose

Why pay for a brand new e-bike when electric bike conversion kits can easily give a boost to the bike you already have? E-bikes have enabled people who need or want some pedal assistance to broaden the range and scope of their riding while making it easier than ever to choose sustainable and greener transport methods.

Whatever your reason for wanting pedal assistance — whether it makes cycling more accessible to you and your family, or you think you'll have more fun with that boost - the e-bike market is vast and often requires a large upfront cost. So if you're struggling to find an e-bike that suits you, and already have a bike at home, then you might consider an electric bike conversion kit instead.

Whichever option you go for, there's no denying that the best electric bikes make it easier for riders to explore and experience different terrains and riding environments. Plus they offer a cheaper and greener form of transport to get you from A to B at a higher pace for less effort than a conventional bike, which is especially beneficial for those who are commuting or using them for work. The best electric bikes for commuting can make for a speedier and altogether less sweaty cycle to work, not to mention the money saved when compared to soaring fuel or rail fare prices.

But what if you're not sure about which option to go for? If you're weighing up an e-bike vs an e-bike conversion kit , consider whether you already have a bike that you love riding. Converting it means you can continue enjoying the same ride quality while introducing you to a new world of electrically-assisted fun.

To make all these decisions easier for you, we've outlined the key things to consider when fitting an electric conversion kit to your own bike, including the various motor and battery options available. We've tested as many as possible in real-world riding conditions, assessing how easy they are to fit, and what kind of electric assistance they provide.

So here are our findings, and our roundup of the best electric bike conversion kits you can buy right now.

Best e-bike conversion kits: Quick list

Well-thought-out design, engineering and easy installation with a couple of Allen wrenches. Intuitive operation, app-based diagnostics and great UK-based customer support. Smooth ride quality and easy mode choice too!

Best electric bike conversion kits available now

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

Best e-bike conversion kit overall

1. cytronex.

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

The first on our list is one we reviewed very recently and which really impressed us. The Cytronex electric bike conversion kit is extremely well thought-out, with great specs and top-notch engineering. You only need Allen keys to install it, it comes with an accompanying app to offer up basic diagnostics, and once it's set up it's a breeze to operate.

When purchasing, you'll go through a thorough process, which can feel a bit over-complicated, but in doing so it means the actual conversion is a straightforward one. We tested out the Cytronex on a Brompton T-Line and found it delivered smooth and intuitive power. Plus, our hands-on time with it leads us to believe it's strong and durable enough to use for commuting.

While it's pricier than some of the options listed below, one thing to consider is that it comes from a UK-based company that offers comprehensive customer support. You can pay less for a Bafang kit on Amazon, but buying direct from a company that can support you if anything goes wrong, makes it a smarter choice in our view.

For an in-depth look, check out our Cytronex review.

Best budget option

2. bafang front hub motor.

If you're on a tighter budget than the Cytronex or Swytch allow for, then as we mentioned above, getting a kit from Chinese manufacturer Bafang may be a better option. Plus, if you like the idea of an electric bike conversion kit but just don't want to have to deal with the added complexity of a mid-drive setup, then the Bafang Front Hub kit makes things much easier.

Like the mid-drive system listed below, the Bafang Front Hub Motor kit covers everything required and gives tons of spec choices. We started by choosing our wheel size and display preference, then added the battery size and shape we wanted.

We did find it more of a time investment, given the installation process was more complex than the Cytronex, Swytch and Rubbee, but this did allow us to achieve a powerful, high-quality set-up.

To find out more about how we got on, read our Bafang Front Hub Motor review.

Best for easy installation

3. rubbee x.

There are a number of simple install options on the list but the Rubbee X takes it a step further. We were really impressed with how easy it was to attach the mount to the bike's seat post and then click the unit into the mount. There's no need to change the wheel like the Swytch system. Here the motor sits on top of the rear tyre and a roller pushes it around from above. There's also a wireless cadence sensor, as this is a cadence-based system that adjusts based on pedalling cadence, rather than torque.

There is a slick-looking 250-watt motor with a single battery in the base kit. If the 10-mile range of the base unit feels a little constricting, another battery can be added to double the range, or a three-battery model adds both extra range and another 100 watts of power. Rubbee also has a handy phone app that can be used to change assistance modes.

We've spent some time testing it out, so why not check out our Rubbee X e-bike conversion kit review for more details.

Blend in - it just looks like a normal bike

One of the easiest ways to convert a bike to electric is to swap out the front wheel for one with a front hub motor. This is the approach that Swytch takes, but there's more to a good system than just a motor and battery. From our time testing and reviewing it, it's clear to us that the team behind Swytch have considered the whole system in its design.

The battery mounts to the handlebars and we found that a really useful detail. It is easy to disconnect and take it away for storage, so it doesn't get stolen when you are out and about, or to lighten the bike when, for example, it needs to be carried up a flight of stairs.

The 2022 Swytch system, which we tested, makes use of a neat handlebar-mounted LCD display instead of the buttons on the battery it had before. There's also a cadence sensor that attaches to your bike. It's a well-thought-out system that looks and feels great.

To read all about how it works, and find out why we gave it four stars, take a look at our Swytch review.

Easy and plentiful configuration

5. bafang mid-drive motor kit and battery.

Bafang is one of the largest and most well-known electric bike motor companies in the world. It's been around since 2003, and in 2014 Bafang established a US arm to better support the US market. There are many well-known electric bike companies sourcing its components, so if you want to get in the game and source your own electric bike components, you won't go far wrong with Bafang.

This particular option covers everything you need for a mid-drive motor conversion kit. As long as the bike you are starting with has a bottom bracket sized between 68 and 73mm, this kit will work. From there you can choose the front chainring size, the battery size, and what display works for you.

If you're not sure whether or not a mid-drive motor conversion is what you need (or what other drive options there are), head down to our FAQs at the bottom of this article for an explanation of all the possibilities you can choose from.

Best for bike shop support

6. pendix edrive 300.

If you like the idea of a mid-drive system and you want it to have torque-sensing pedal assist then you've got a few choices. The challenge with a system like that is complexity. For some people, it's no big deal to take apart a bottom bracket, but for others, it's a slightly more intimidating prospect.

The Pendix system does the same thing as other kits but there is a dealer network that handles sales, support, and installation. This comes with an extra cost attached, but the benefit is that you can feel comfortable that the system is correctly installed and ready to ride.

Best for natural ride feel

7. tongsheng mid-drive kit with battery.

The most natural-feeling electric bike conversion kits are going to be those with a mid-mounted motor. If that works for you and you also like the idea of doing some pedalling, then the very best is a mid-mounted motor paired with a torque sensor.

Instead of the system knowing you are pedalling and adding power, such as the Rubbee X cadence-based system above, a torque-based system adds a percentage of power. The Max torque available on this TongSheng system is 80Nm but depending on your chosen assist level, that 80Nm will add between 36 and 300 per cent to your pedalling power.

To keep it simple, think about it as an amplifier. If you pedal harder you go faster, just like a normal bike, but now your muscles have extra support, so you can go further with less effort.

Friction drive conversion

A friction drive e-bike conversion means there is a roller that pushes against the wheels tyre. So when the roller turns, the wheel turns. It's not the most efficient strategy, but it's simple and it works. There is very little involved with regard to making it work but, at the end of the day, it doesn't work as well as other systems out there. The Rubbee X is an example of a friction drive conversion kit system.

Mid-drive conversion

The best electric bikes tend to be mid-drive because this delivers the most natural ride feel, and the same is true of conversion kits. The weight sits low in the frame and the power gets applied to the crank for a more natural power delivery sensation. The only downside is pricing and packaging, plus it can be complex to set up yourself. Different standards make it challenging to figure out exactly what you need, as well. The Bafang Mid Drive Motor Kit is an example of this.

Electric bike wheel conversion

Swapping either a front or rear wheel for one with a hub-mounted motor is a good balance. The conversion process is very simple and, depending on how the battery mounts, the weight distribution can be quite good. Powering the wheel does change the way the power delivery feels, and making the front wheel heavy can affect the handling of the bike. If mid-drive seems overwhelming, this is an excellent option. Cytronex and Swytch are examples of this.

How to choose the best electric bike conversion kit for you

If you're interested in fitting an electric bike conversion kit to one of your own bikes, you should consider your own personal requirements first and do plenty of research. You're in the right place, as this guide will help you with a lot of that.

Before anything, familiarise yourself with the laws regarding e-bikes in your region. Then you may want to choose a conversion kit based on your range and journey needs. If you live in a hilly city, for example, you may want something with a little more top-end power. Lastly, check whether or not the system is compatible with the bike you plan to fit it onto. If you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, think about getting a quote for installation from a reputable bike shop.

Do all electric bike conversion kits come with a battery?

The short answer is 'not always'. You need a battery, of course, so when browsing online, make sure the kit you select has one included. Since not all kits include a battery, you might find yourself browsing through options and landing on something at an unbelievable price. If that's the case, double check it's got the battery included. If not, then it is possible to source the battery yourself, but be sure about what you are getting.

What is the range of an e-bike conversion?

The short answer is "it depends," and that's why we've not quoted it for each kit listed above. Instead, we've included the battery size and motor power, to help you get a fair gauge of how one compares to the next.

To help you understand why that's relevant, a quick basic formula: A 100Wh (Watt-Hour) battery will last for one hour when the motor is putting out 100 watts of power.

Different products come with different battery sizes and various motor powers, but as an example, if your e-bike conversion kit has a 250-watt motor, and it has a 500Wh battery, it will last for two hours at full power.

To then convert that into a distance (to be able to quote a range) is even more confusing. Riding uphill will use more power but be slower than riding downhill, so you'll cover different distances for the power output depending on where you live and the terrain you'll cover. What's more, one person may use full power sparingly, whereas another will use it everywhere.

And finally, if it's cold, batteries perform worse than if it's warm, so will drain more quickly in winter than in summer.

With all that said, in our experience, a 200Wh battery paired with a 250w motor will get you around 25-30km when used on mixed terrain with a mixed use of power outputs.

How fast do electric bikes go?

This is hard to answer specifically as electric bikes are, on the whole, designed to assist pedalling rather than replace it, and it is the same with electric bike conversion kits. The measurement of the power of the motors is in wattage and, in effect, the higher the wattage of the motor, the faster speeds it will be capable of achieving.

However, the speed is often limited as a result of country-specific regulations. In the UK, the assistance an e-bike can legally provide is up to 25kmph (15.5mph) and, after that point, the bike can go faster but without any assistance from the motor. Anything faster would not meet the UK's electrically assisted pedal cycles (EAPC) criteria , would be classed as a moped or motorcycle, and need to be licensed and taxed appropriately. The laws are different depending on the country, with the United States, for example, allowing more powerful motors – although individual states have their own legal frameworks.

Which bike is best for electric conversion?

You should consider the condition and componentry of your old bike. With an electric motor dramatically increasing the torque, using a low-quality or worn drivetrain will result in poor performance, with shifting being affected and the chain skipping or even snapping. Another important consideration is the brakes, adding the extra weight of an electric bike conversion kit and increasing potential speeds will put more stress on the brakes as they try to curtail momentum. We recommend choosing to convert a bike that has disc brakes as they will provide far better braking performance.

I haven't heard of a lot of these brands, are they safe to use?

In the world of electric bikes, there are a lot of brands you may not have ever heard of. There's been a boom going on for a while, so new brands are popping up all the time. Not only that but Europe, and especially the US, are playing catch up to the trend of electric bikes. You will probably stumble across a lot of unfamiliar brand names.

Consumers have a tendency to look away when they encounter a new brand. It's not a bad strategy most of the time but in the electric bike world, including conversion kits, you've got to be more open than that. If you aren't open to names you've never heard of you will find the options limited. A lot of the names you may come across are unfamiliar to you but have a solid history behind them.

That doesn't mean you should go forward blindly. Do your research and be careful with your money, like always. The only thing that might be different is the need for being open to new companies. At the very least be willing to look a little deeper, read reviews, and do some research. The brand you've never heard of might actually be a well-established brand from a different part of the world.

Is converting my bike to an electric bike worth it?

There are plenty of reasons to install an electric bike conversion kit to your current bike, but the question of whether it's worth doing is going to depend on your circumstances.

For many kits, once the installation has been completed, it will be an arduous task to remove it again, so one of the questions you'll need to ask yourself is whether or not you want to retain the ability to use the bike as a 'normal' bike. If you expect to be flitting between the two (powered and non-powered) then a kit that can simply be folded out of the way – like the Rubbee X – might be perfect, but you might instead prefer to simply buy a second bike for the convenience.

The second question is to assess the state of your current bike. If you don't yet have one, then the cost of buying a bike, buying an electric bike conversion kit and then fitting it, is probably not going to be worth the time, effort, or money involved. However, if you have a bike that is in reasonable repair, then the value for money – and effort – will be greater.

Beyond the financial and practical element, the question of 'is it worth it' will also depend on the amount of use you get out of it. E-bikes can be incredibly motivating and enjoyable and if converting your standard bike to electric helps you to ditch the car on a regular basis, then the answer becomes clear.

If you want a monetary answer to this question, then there are ways to work out whether the investment is worth it. Take a moment to think about your current car usage and work out the cost per day/mile, including fuel, parking and running costs. Try to work out how many journeys, days or miles you will use the bike for after it is converted. Once you know this, you should be able to work out the reduction in car running costs per mile/day and, with that, you should be able to work out how many miles/days it will take for the electric bike conversion kit to pay for itself.

Should I just buy an electric bike instead?

Remember to consider all your options. You have a bike in the shed you haven't touched for many years and it seems like a perfect candidate for conversion to an electric bike. It might be, but it's also just as possible that it's a better candidate for a sale. Sometimes it's better to take the money from that sale and put it towards an electric bike someone else built.

As with anything, consideration for the end-use during design and build can have advantages. A quality electric bike conversion kit might end up being very close to the price of a complete electric bike. If a company starts with a clean slate and designs an electric bike, it's easier to keep costs low and integration high. Really consider why you are thinking about converting your bike and whether it makes sense compared to what's on the market. In some cases, it will but in others, it won't.

Are electric bike conversion kits legal?

The kits themselves are entirely legal, and fitting them to your bike is equally so. However, the question of legality arises in relation to where you then plan to use your newly powered electric bike. The answer will vary hugely, depending on where in the world you're based, and which kit you choose.

For example, in the US, there are different classes of e-bikes that vary by their power, speed limitations and whether or not they have a throttle, and each class is subject to different rules. Things are a little more simple elsewhere, with the UK stating that anything with a speed limiter of over 25km/h is classified as a moped, while anything up to 25km/h (15.5mph) is classed as a bicycle.

Before you complete any purchase, make sure you have an understanding of the local laws that govern electric bikes, which is where our guide to e-bike classes comes in handy.

How do you install an e-bike conversion kit?

Sadly, there is no single and simple answer to this question. Each electric bike conversion kit works in a different way and therefore fits onto your bike in a different way too.

The most simple options are the friction-drive kits, such as the Rubbee X, which place a roller onto your rear tyre. In the example of the Rubbee, you simply need to mount the device onto your seat post, with the roller placed against the tyre. However, more complex systems require the removal of drivetrain components and wheels, and the installation of wiring. These are far from impossible, but they may require some tools and a bit of patience.

How much does an electric bike conversion kit cost?

Prices will depend very much on the conversion kit in question. Some are available for as little as £250 ($350), while the more high-spec and integrated kits can fetch as much as £750 ($900).

Will a bike shop fit my electric bike conversion kit?

It's understandable that you might not want to take on the arduous task of fitting your electric bike conversion kit yourself. You might not have the tools, the know-how, the confidence, or simply the time to invest. Luckily, almost all bike shops will be happy to fit it for you.

Some systems, such as the Pendix kit listed above, are only sold via physical stores and the fitting is sold as part of the overall package. However, with kits bought online such as the Bafang kit, the shop will charge you for the time it takes, which will add to the cost of the overall conversion. In our opinion, knowing that it's been done correctly and safely is worth spending extra.

Some bike shops or workshops also may refuse to install a conversion kit to a bike they consider unfit for purpose or potentially unsafe. If you plan to have your local shop fit a kit it may be worth consulting with them on the job first to make sure they are happy to do it for you.

How do we test the best electric bike conversion kits?

Like all of our buying guides, our advice is gained through countless hours of using products in the real world, often back to back against their peers to compare them, but ebike conversion kits have an additional need.

If a conversion kit is too tough to install, it will cost you more as you seek thehelp of a professional. Therefore, with our testing, we also spend time fitting the kit to the bike in the first place, judging how long it takes and how intuitive it is.

Once that's done, we do the real-world testing, judging the range, the ease of use and the durability of the product in question.

Individuals carrying out the instructions in this guide do so at their own risk and must exercise their independent judgement. There is a risk to safety if the operation described in the instructions is not carried out with the appropriate equipment, skill and diligence and therefore you may wish to consult a bike mechanic. Future Publishing Limited provides the information for this project in good faith and makes no representations as to its completeness or accuracy. To the fullest extent permitted by law, neither Future Publishing Limited, its suppliers or any of their employees, agents or subcontractors shall have any liability in connection with the use of this information, provided that nothing shall exclude or limit the liability of any party for personal injury or death caused by negligence or for anything else which cannot be excluded or limited by law.

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Josh hails from the Pacific Northwest of the United States but would prefer riding through the desert than the rain. He will happily talk for hours about the minutiae of cycling tech but also has an understanding that most people just want things to work. He is a road cyclist at heart and doesn't care much if those roads are paved, dirt, or digital. Although he rarely races, if you ask him to ride from sunrise to sunset the answer will be yes. Height: 5'9" Weight: 140 lb. Rides: Salsa Warbird, Cannondale CAAD9, Enve Melee, Look 795 Blade RS, Priority Continuum Onyx

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Electric Bicycle Motor

Trek Farley 5 Trail Fat Electric Bike 84v 3200w Cyc X1 Pro NEW Motor Ebike

Handlebar Type: Low Riser Bar
Wheel Size: 27.5 in
Bike Type: E-Mountain Bike
Maximum Speed: 40mph
Material: Aluminium
Charging Time: 2 Hours
Number of Speeds: 8 Speed
Tyre Type: Solid Rubber Tyres
Brand: Trek Farley 5
Maximum Range: Up to 60 km
Model Year: 2020
Custom-Built: Yes
Department: Unisex Adult
Brake Type: Disc Brake – Hydraulic
Suspension Type: Fat Bike
Motor Type: Mid-Drive Motor
Voltage: 84v
Model: torque
Shifter Style: Thumb Shifter
Features: Front Light
Gear Change Mechanism: Derailleur Gears
Frame Size: Large

Incoming search terms:

https://myelectricbikemotor com/trek-farley-5-trail-fat-electric-bike-84v-3200w-cyc-x1-pro-new-motor-ebike/
cyc trek farley

Best Mountain Bike Reviews
Best Fat Bikes

Trek Farley 5 Review

Downhill Performance - 30% 7.0
Uphill Performance - 30% 7.0
Versatility - 25% 7.0
Build - 15% 7.0

Our Verdict

Our analysis and test results.

Trek Bikes is headquartered in Waterloo, Wisconsin, and their location in the upper mid-west means they probably know a thing or two about riding in cold and often snowy environments. They make a small line of fat bikes, and the Farley 5 is their entry-level model that is offered at a very reasonable entry-level price. Aside from the asking price, the Farley 5 is relatively comparable in weight, geometry, and performance to the other fully rigid fat bike models in this review.

Performance Comparison

trek farley 5 fat bike review - testing the farley in some variable snow conditions above south lake...

Downhill Performance

On the descents, the Farley 5 performs a lot like you might expect for a fully rigid bike. It is most at home on smooth snow or dirt trails where its lack of suspension feels efficient and is more of a benefit than a hindrance. Despite the bike's lack of suspension, the massive air volume of the 27.5" x 4.5" Bontrager Gnarwhal tires helps to absorb a significant amount of shock and smooths over small obstacles and trail chatter, especially when you run the tires at low pressure, we liked them around ten psi. The bike's short wheelbase and relatively short reach help to make it plenty maneuverable, while the large contact patch and grippy tread of the tires offer seemingly endless grip when cornering. While this bike isn't as long as some of its competitors, it still feels comfortable and planted at speed, mostly due to the girthy rubber. Testers rode this bike on both snow and dirt and were very impressed by its surprising lack of rolling resistance and solid cornering abilities.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - testing the limits of the farley on some steep slabs and loose sand.

When the going gets rough is when you begin to notice the shortcomings of the Farley 5 , and all of the other fully rigid models for that matter, on the descents. You can feel the feedback from larger rocks, roots, or chunky snow come straight up through the rigid fork, into the handlebar, and ultimately, your hands. It's no worse than any of the other models with rigid forks, but it's a far cry from the supple front end of the Farley 7 . The 69-degree head tube angle is on the steeper side of the bikes in this test, but it feels fine on the terrain that this bike is intended for. The cockpit is relatively well equipped, although our testers generally prefer a shorter and stiffer stem and a handlebar a little wider than 750mm. That said, it worked well and provided precise enough handling. Testers would have enjoyed a quick-release seat post clamp on this bike to prevent them from pulling out the multi-tool every time they wanted to lower the saddle for an extended section of downhill riding.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the front end of the farley can feel a bit steep at times, but it...

Uphill Performance

Much like the downhill performance of the Farley , its uphill performance is strikingly similar to the other rigid models in this review. It weighs 31 lbs and 11 oz and isn't especially heavy, although the differences in weight between the five models in this test aren't all that dramatic, and we feel it's very respectable for an alloy-framed bike with 4.5" tires. While climbing or seated pedaling on flat terrain it feels very efficient, and the only wasted energy is that lost through the super wide and soft tires, although those tires do provide excellent traction. Testers were pleasantly surprised that there wasn't more rolling resistance while riding the Gnarwhal tires on dirt or snow, but they do feel incredibly sluggish and awkward on pavement.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the farley is a capable climber with a comfortable seated pedaling...

The rider's position while climbing is quite comfortable, with a moderate 446mm reach and a slightly taller front end than some of the competition. The 74.4-degree seat tube angle puts the rider right up on top of the bottom bracket and keeps the weight distributed relatively well for climbing traction. The shorter length wheelbase and 69-degree head angle also give this bike a pretty short turning radius, which helps with tight uphill switchbacks or in case you encounter some tighter more technical climbing. When the climbs get a little steeper, the Shimano Deore 10-speed drivetrain did leave us wanting for another lower gear, but generally speaking, it was fine whenever riding on dirt, and you can't really climb snow that's very steep anyway. All in all, the Farley climbs pretty darn well.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - it feels efficient and responsive on the climbs, surprising...

Versatility

The Farley 5 in its factory build is best suited to snow or very soft surface riding. The massive 4.5" wide Gnarwhal tires are super girthy and provide tons of floatation for use on soft surfaces like snow or sand. Those huge tires also have a meaty tread pattern and grip as well or better than the Maxxis Minion tires found on many of our other test models. Despite this bike's huge tires, it proved not to be a one-trick pony, and we were surprised by its mixed-condition performance and capabilities on dirt and normal trail conditions as well. With limited accessory mounts on the frame and fork, the Farley 5 isn't as well equipped for bike packing or adventure riding as some other models.

The Farley 5 is the least expensive model in this review, yet it has a component specification that is pretty comparable to its more expensive competition. The bike's skeleton is Trek's Alpha Platinum aluminum frame with a Bontrager Haru rigid fork with carbon lowers that has been 100mm suspension corrected. This suspension correction may seem insignificant, but it does help to raise the front end of this bike a little bit, and the geometry won't change significantly if you were to purchase an aftermarket suspension fork. The frame has two water bottle mounts in the front triangle and has mounting options for a rack or other accessories on the seat stays of the rear triangle. The frame is also designed to accommodate an internally routed dropper seat post.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the farley's frame is nice and lightweight for the price with loads...

Trek's choice of a 10-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain is a little bit of a letdown as we prefer 11 and 12-speed drivetrains these days, but it works well and offers a pretty good range. This drivetrain setup includes a Shimano Deore derailleur and shifter, 11-42 tooth cassette, and Race Face Ride cranks with a 28-tooth chainring. Similar to the competition, Trek equipped the Farley 5 with SRAM Level hydraulic disc brakes and 160mm rotors front and rear. The basic Level brakes don't have much bling factor, but testers found them to work well for the lower speeds associated with riding on the Farley 5.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the 10-speed drivetrain was a low point of this build, but the...

In typical Trek bike fashion, the Farley 5 is clad in quite a few Bontrager, Trek's house brand, parts. This includes virtually all of the cockpit components like the 750mm wide alloy handlebar, 80mm stem, and the XR Trail Comp lock-on grips. Our testers tend to prefer shorter stems and slightly wider handlebars, but 750mm isn't too far off the mark and will be wide enough for most riders. Trek also mounted a Bontrager Arvada saddle atop a basic alloy seat post that is held in place by a non-quick-release seat post clamp. The saddle works just fine but isn't quite as comfortable as the WTB saddles found on some of the other models. We also prefer quick-release seatpost clamps on bikes with rigid seat posts to speed up changes in saddle height.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the cockpit setup is relatively comfortable although the saddle was...

As with most fat bikes, the Farley 5 has SUNringle Mulefut rims. In this case, they are 80mm wide in a 27.5" size and are laced to a set of Bontrager hubs with 12 x 197mm rear and 15 x 150mm front axle spacing. We've read complaints online about the durability of these hubs, but ours worked well throughout our testing. The Farley is mounted up with massive 4.5" Bontrager Gnarwhal tires. These tires provide excellent floatation and impressive traction on both snow and dirt. Due to the girth of these tires, testers expected the Farley to roll slower and generally feel more sluggish side to side, but that was not the case. The 15.5" and 17.5" frame sizes of this bike come with a 4.5" Bontrager Barbegazi rear tire.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the 4.5" bontrager gnarwhal tires have an aggressive open tread...

The Farley 5 shares relatively similar geometry numbers with the other fully rigid bikes in this review. When compared to modern geometry numbers for trail mountain bikes, they seem relatively conservative, but they are pretty standard for fat bikes. The head tube angle of 69 degrees certainly sounds a little steep, but it works well for this style of bike. The fork on the Farley has been 100mm suspension-corrected, which helps make the front end of this bike a little taller and more comfortable than some. The seat tube angle of 74.4 degrees feels good and works well while spinning away on flat terrain and gradual climbs. The shorter reach measurement of 446mm feels good on this bike and helps keep you in a comfortable seated pedaling position. The wheelbase is also on the shorter side at 1143mm. The chainstay length of 446mm is moderate in length but very reasonable considering the clearance needed for the 27.5" x 4.5" rubber on this bike. The rear dropout is adjustable and allows for 15mm of adjustment to accommodate different-sized tires or in case you want to set this bike up as a single speed. We also measured the Q-factor, the distance between the cranks, on the Farley at 180mm, which is certainly on the wider side, but we feel is quite respectable considering the rear tire clearance this bike has.

trek farley 5 fat bike review - the farley is a blast to ride, this is a solid fat bike and a good...

Should You Buy The Trek Farley 5?

If you're looking for a less expensive fat bike to add to your quiver or a relatively affordable entry-level model, we think the Farley 5 is worthy of consideration. Despite its low price, it offers performance that is better than or equal to several of the more expensive bikes in this review. It's lightweight for the price, has a comfortable geometry, climbs and pedals efficiently, and it looks pretty good too. There's nothing mind-blowing about its performance, but it gets the job done and costs less than most of the competition.

What Other Fat Bikes Should You Consider?

Best Fat Bike of 2024

How To Choose a Fat Bike

Trek’s Farley 7 Is an All-Season Fat Bike

A dropper post, suspension fork, and exceptional handling help this fat bike perform long after the snow melts.

The Takeaway: The Farley 7 is a fat bike built for all-season riding.

Dropper post provides more control on downhills
Suspension fork offers enhanced traction and control on hard surfaces
Adjustable dropouts let the rider fine-tune the Farley's handling

Price: $2,600 Weight: 34.8 lb. (M)

When you hear the words “fat bike,” you likely picture a bundled-up rider atop massive tires traversing snow. But those fat tires, primarily designed to improve flotation over soft surfaces, can offer sure-footed traction on other types of surfaces, as well, and plow over and through obstacles that bog down many mountain bikes. Fat bikes are the ultimate no-road touring bikes. And though they may not be the first choice for shredding summer singletrack, with the right build and handling, they can be more than just a snow bike. Trek’s Farley 7 is the fat bike you don’t put away for the summer.

2020 Farley 7

The Farley Lineup

Trek’s Farley line currently consists of four complete bikes priced from $1,800 to $5,150. The line is split evenly between aluminum framed models (Farley 5 and Farley 7) and carbon (Farley 9.6 and Farley 9.8). You can also purchase the Farley as a frame only in either material—$1,000 for aluminum, $2,200 for carbon—both of which include a carbon rigid fork. For anyone who wants suspension at both ends, Trek also offers the 120mm-travel, carbon Farley EX frame, with a Fox Performance Float EVOL shock (front suspension is up to you). Geometry is almost the same in both materials (there are tiny differences), and all come in sizes small through extra large.

All Farley models roll on 27.5 wheels wrapped in 4.5-inch wide tires. Just like its dirt-focused cousins, a fat bike with larger wheels is faster because the wheels roll over things more smoothly, but bigger wheels are also heavier. Fat bikes on 26-inch wheels will be lighter and livelier, but the bigger-wheeled fat bikes will roll more efficiently.

The Farley 7 reviewed here is one of two models with a dropper post (the other is the $5,150 Farley 9.8) and the only model with a suspension fork—a Manitou Mastodon Comp with 80mm of travel, 34mm stanchions, and hydraulic lockout. Other specifications of note include tubeless-ready rims and tires, SRAM Eagle drivetrain with 11-50 cassette, and SRAM Level disc brakes.

.css-1hhr1pq{text-align:center;font-size:1.1875rem;line-height:1.6;font-family:Charter,Charter-roboto,Charter-local,Georgia,Times,Serif;}.css-1hhr1pq em{font-style:italic;font-family:Charter,Charter-styleitalic-roboto,Charter-styleitalic-local,Georgia,Times,Serif;}.css-1hhr1pq strong{font-family:Charter,Charter-weightbold-roboto,Charter-weightbold-local,Georgia,Times,Serif;font-weight:bold;} —5 Things We Love About the Farley 7—

Fast 'n Floaty

The 27.5 x 4.5-inch tires roll fast and offer great flotation.

Suspension Fork

An 80mm-travel suspension fork provides more control on hard surfaces.

Adjustable Dropouts

Sliding dropouts let you tune the handling, or run the Farley as a singlespeed.

Double Ready

If the 1x12 drivetrain isn’t for you, you can add a front derailleur.

Add studs to the Farley’s tires for better grip on slippery, icy surfaces.

Built for More Than Snow

The Farley comes built to ride all year long. On the front is a Manitou Mastodon suspension fork with 80mm of travel. This may seem like an unnecessary feature when the bike has 4.5-inch wide tires. But as cushy as the tires are, they don’t behave the same way as a good suspension fork. A suspension fork’s action is more damped than the basketball-like bounce of big tires. This damped and controlled action provides better traction and stability, particularly on harder surfaces and at higher speeds. If you’re using a fat bike only for riding slow(ish) on soft snow or sand, a suspension fork probably isn’t necessary. But if you like riding a fat bike on harder surfaces like dirt-covered and rocky trails, a suspension fork can be a huge benefit.

The dropper post is another feature that gives the Farley 7 increased versatility. Like the suspension fork, if your fat bike adventures are limited to cruising groomed and packed snow-covered roads and trails, a dropper post won't make a major difference. It’s when riding becomes faster and more technical that getting the seat out of the way so you can lower your center of gravity makes the biggest difference.

As a final nod to multi-season use, the Farley has adjustable dropouts which provide 15mm of chainstay length adjustment. They can be used to fine-tune the bike’s handling—longer, more stability; shorter, snappier feel—or to tension the chain if you want to run the Farley as a singlespeed.

How it Rides

True to the Farley 7’s multi-season build, testers rode it on dirt, sand, mud, and snow. Early on, one tester got rowdy on a rocky trail and dented the rim. We were able to pound out much of the dent, and the tubeless seal held for the remainder of the test period.

One of the first things that jumped out at testers was the riding position. With a few exceptions, the fat-bike category has yet to embrace the longer/slacker trend, and that's certainly the case with the Farley. A size medium’s reach is just 410mm—that’s several centimeters shorter than a modern trail bike in the same size. I’m on record as saying that longer and slacker isn’t always better, and I still believe that.

However, if you’re used to a modern mountain bike, the Farley will feel short when you first get on it. But that feeling fades the longer you spend time on the Farley, and some riders did comment that the shorter position helped offset some of a fat bike’s inherent sluggishness.

Still, at almost 35 pounds (set up tubeless), the Farley 7 is heavy, even for a fat bike—something all testers noticed. “Switching directions quickly, through switchbacks for example, is seriously tough. After long descents, I found my upper body and arms were on fire from having to muscle the bike around,” read one tester’s notes.

But if you’re able to get over the weight, the Farley 7 is a nice-riding, all-season fat bike. Though heavy, it’s geared low enough that it climbs reasonably well. And it corners very well on many surfaces as well. In higher-traction situations, the Farley’s bar wants to keep turning once a turn is initiated. All fat bikes do this to some degree, but on the Farley it was less pronounced than most and it required less-aggressive counter steering. This made the Farley’s handling more stable and predictable, which in turn made it easier to ride. Contributing to the good-handling vibes were the Farley’s Bontrager Gnarwhal tires, which got praise from testers for their superb cornering and braking traction in all conditions. Testers also called them out for excellent flotation in soft snow.

Though testers were pretty “meh” on the benefit of a suspension fork for soft snow, they all agreed that it became a huge bonus when riding on firmer ground. The Manitou Mastodon performed well too, and proved reliable and consistent across a wide range of temperatures.

The TranzX dropper post worked well throughout testing also. Most testers found it more beneficial when riding on firmer ground and faster trails. However, some testers did note its benefits for riding in deep snow: “If you come off in those conditions, it’s very difficult to get back on, as your feet sink into the unpacked powder off the sides of the trail. This positions your feet lower than the tires and the packed singletrack, so it’s really hard to get your butt back on the saddle. [If] you have a dropper, problem solved.”

Overall, testers found the Farley 7 was a good fat bike for snow riding. But in these conditions, the bike didn’t stand apart from many other good fat bikes. It is the Farley’s performance away from the snow, as well as its overall versatility, that testers really appreciated. The Farley 7 is better in more conditions, handles better at more speeds, and is more capable than the typical fat bike. It’s a fat bike you’ll continue to ride long after the snow melts.

A gear editor for his entire career, Matt’s journey to becoming a leading cycling tech journalist started in 1995, and he’s been at it ever since; likely riding more cycling equipment than anyone on the planet along the way. Previous to his time with Bicycling , Matt worked in bike shops as a service manager, mechanic, and sales person. Based in Durango, Colorado, he enjoys riding and testing any and all kinds of bikes, so you’re just as likely to see him on a road bike dressed in Lycra at a Tuesday night worlds ride as you are to find him dressed in a full face helmet and pads riding a bike park on an enduro bike. He doesn’t race often, but he’s game for anything; having entered road races, criteriums, trials competitions, dual slalom, downhill races, enduros, stage races, short track, time trials, and gran fondos. Next up on his to-do list: a multi day bikepacking trip, and an e-bike race.

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2023 Trek Farley 5 Review

Are you looking for a reliable and efficient fat bike to conquer muddy and snowy terrain? Look no further than the new 2023 Trek Farley 5, a sure-footed bike designed with strength and comfort in mind.

The 2023 Trek Farley 5 is an all-rounder fat bike, capable of tackling any terrain – wet, icy or rocky. The bike features a lightweight Alpha Platinum Aluminum frame combined with 27.5 inch wheels, which allow for smooth maneuverability while travelling over sketchy surfaces.

Additionally, the 27.5×4.5 inch fat tires provide excellent traction and stability on snow or other slippery surfaces.

Designed for adventure seekers across all skill levels, the 2023 Trek Farley 5 offers an unparalleled outdoor performance machine. This overview will provide an in depth look into the design elements and performance characteristics of this fat bike wonder machine – from frame components to wheel sizes and tire types that make it incredibly capable off road. So read on to see what makes this bicycle such a reliable winter companion!

The Trek Farley 5 is a fat bike that has been the answer to many of today’s backcountry cyclists’ dreams. A few years ago, it burst onto the scene with its reliable construction, lightweight frame and fat tires. It has become a favorite among adventurers as well as those with an eye for extreme mountain biking.

The 2023 Trek Farley 5 is the perfect bikepacking adventure companion. This mountain bike offers superior handling on even the toughest trails. Built with lightweight aluminum, it’s the perfect companion for weekend traverses or extended off-road rides.

With features like thru-axles, reliable disc brakes and ample mud clearance, it can handle any terrain you put it up against. The Farley 5 is also compatible with a variety of frame bags, providing you with plenty of room for long distance journeys.

– Lightweight Alpha Platinum Aluminum frame for superior handling and performance

– 197x12mm adjustable horizontal sliding dropouts

– Bontrager Haru fork, tapered alloy steerer, OCLV Carbon lowers

– Having Bontrager Gnarwhal Team Issue 27.5″x4.5″ fat tires allows you to go faster on groomed or packed snow.

– Reliable Shimano Deore 1×10 drivetrain featuring a 28t chainring on the Race Face Ride crank paired to a 10-46t cassette

– SRAM Level hydraulic disc brakes offer reliable stopping power in all conditions

– Compatible with suspension forks with up to 100mm of travel

Despite several updated models entering this specific market over the last couple of years, the 2023 Trek Farley 5 remains one of the top dogs when it comes to fat bike performance. Here’s a look at what we can expect from this bike:

The Trek Farley 5 frame is constructed from Alpha Platinum Aluminium, which makes for an incredibly light build that can tackle any terrain you throw at it. It features a horizontal sliding rear dropout to adjust your chainstay length — giving you ultimate control over nearly any kind of terrain imaginable.

Equipped with Shimano Deore shifters and derailleurs, along with RaceFace crankset and 28t chainring and 10-46t 10 speed cassette; you have all the necessary components to make your way through tight switchbacks or across heaps of rocks without hesitation.

For stopping power, the 2023 Trek Farley 5 features SRAM Level hydraulic disc brakes that give great stopping power without sacrificing feel or weight.

Wheels & Tires

This model comes standard with tubeless ready Bontrager Gnarwhal Team Issue 27.5×4.5 tires on SUNRingle Mulefut 80 SL wheels — providing plenty of grip while maintaining low-pressure traction over just about any terrain you encounter out there on the trail.

Additional Features

Additional features include a Boost 148/110 Rapid Drive hub gives you nearly instant acceleration instead of a clunky lag when you step on the pedals. And the Bontrager Evoke saddle mounted to a TranzX dropper post keeps you comfortable. All this weighing in at just 32.3lbs.

Overall, the Trek Farley 5 is an exceptional fat bike set up for those who want to ride hard and take on challenging rides in style – all at an impressive price point for what it offers!

Whether you’re looking for comfort climbs or some technical descents, this awesome setup will get you where you need to go quickly and easily!

Order online and have it shipped to your local dealer for final assembly!!

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Perm: Europe's easternmost city

The city of Perm, located in the Urals foothills, is, geographically speaking, the most easterly city in Europe. Yekaterinburg, which is situated further to the east, beyond the Urals ridge, is located in Asia. Yet, while the whole world thinks that Europe ends at Perm, its citizens are convinced that it begins there.

Perm owes its birth to the mountains that separate Europe from Asia. One of the first copper-smelting works in the Urals was built there in the early 18 th century. As production developed, the settlement grew and Empress Catherine II (the great) soon signed a decree creating the city of Perm around the plant. For centuries, the city developed as an industrial center, so it is not surprising that the working people in Perm welcomed the October Revolution of 1917. In 1940, the city was renamed Molotov, but not for long, as its former name was restored in the late 1950s. Today Perm is a leader of Russian heavy industry.

In recent years, however, the city has been striving to rid itself of its image as Russia’s industrial capital and be recognized as a cultural capital. Can a mighty industrial city, studded with factories, turn overnight into a capital of fashion shows, music and modern arts? The local people are confident that they can do it; the local museum features ancient local artifacts such as wooden idols and bronze animal medallions alongside modern art. Artists and musicians come to Perm to lecture and give master classes and, once every two years, the city hosts the Diaghilev Seasons, a classical festival in memory of the famous ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev. This is not accidental – the guiding spirit of the famous Russian Seasons in Paris lived in Perm with his family for a long time and graduated from the local school. This year, the city had its first ever White Nights multicultural festival, which lasted a whole month. The authorities hoped the festival would attract hundreds of thousands of tourists but in reality there were fewer. This was partly due to poor promotion of the festival events and partly to the lack of a convenient tourist infrastructure, including information centers, cheap hotels, bicycle rentals and even toilets.

Even so, Perm is persevering. Like other major Russian cities, last June Perm opened a pedestrian street, its answer to Moscow’s Arbat. At present, it looks somewhat wild and provincial: a patchy asphalt surface, street vendors with nothing to do, a couple of artisans and a children’s playground. Yet the pedestrian street is already included in the standard sightseeing tour that winds around the center. The tour, called The Green Line, links key historical sights of old Perm such as merchants’ houses, churches and monuments. Not surprisingly, it also includes museums, such as the Perm Museum of Local Lore housed in a sumptuous villa that used to belong to the arts patron Nikolai Meshkov. This imposing building, with its columns and stucco moldings, overlooks the Kama River. Its storerooms and exhibition halls contain all the treasures of the city’s many centuries of history. A little back from the riverbank, the Museum of Perm Antiquities features a vast paleontology collection: skeletons of the ancient lizards that gave their name to one of the Palaeozoic periods and the legendary Perm mammoth. An alternative tourist route, called The Red Line, was inaugurated more recently. The places of the greatest romantic dramas played out in the city are marked in red on the city map.

Works of art and stone monuments are not the city’s only attractions. Because of its unusual history and geographical position, Perm has produced many remarkable personalities, some of whom became legends in their own lifetime.

Take Alexei Bessonov, a well-known local communist, an active blogger and an irrepressible public campaigner. He jogs in the morning and, thanks to his robust health, is ever ready to fight for the ideals of the Communist Party. He has come up with some startling initiatives. For example, he proposed turning the city hall into a pretrial detention centre and he tried to organize guerilla units to oppose the cultural reforms. Bessonov’s activities are hailed by the local media, and he has long been a living legend in the city. You can see him all over the place: In the morning he often jogs through the city’s main streets and, at noon, he can be seen leading a demonstration and carrying a banner in front of government buildings. Another local celebrity is Alexander Zhunev, a street artist who holds degrees in economics and geology. When he painted his first graffiti in 2008, he realized this was what he had been born to do. Now people come from afar to look at his works. If you see a portrait of the poet Sergei Yesenin that is as tall as 10-storey building, or Spongebob Squarepants atop an electrical transformer box, or public phones in the shape of a fish or a cat’s head, you can be sure Alexander Zhunev has been here with his spray paint. And it is a good idea to visit the places that he has visited.

In contrast, Mikhail Shmakov has disliked Perm from the time he was a child. He thought the city was drab and gloomy. To escape the drabness, Shmakov and his wife set out on a voyage around the world. They have already crossed Africa and South America. Having seen half the world, Shmakov now admits that he does not want to leave his home city for good.

“Paradoxically, after visiting thousands of cities, it was brought home to me that I was lucky to have been born in Perm,” Shmakov said. “I have hated Perm all my life but have recently come to like its cozy provincial style and atmosphere of a wilderness.”

The “wilderness” surrounds the city in the shape of thick forests and the deep, dark waters of the Kama, a major river that slashes right through the middle of Perm. Today, though, the city is divided not only by water. One part dreams of turning it into a cultural capital and the other part wants it to be an industrial city, as of old. How to keep both camps happy? Perm is in the midst of stormy processes that will certainly be interesting to watch.

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World Time Zone Map Time Converter Perm to Khabarovsk

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Time in Perm vs Khabarovsk

Khabarovsk, Russia time is 5:00 hours ahead of Perm, Russia

Perm time to Khabarovsk time converter

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The best time to call from perm to khabarovsk.

When planning a call between Perm and Khabarovsk, you need to consider that the cities are in different time zones. Perm is 5 hours behind of Khabarovsk.

If you are in Perm, the most convenient time to accommodate all parties is between 9:00 am and 1:00 pm for a conference call or meeting. In Khabarovsk, this will be a usual working time of between 2:00 pm and 6:00 pm.

If you want to reach out to someone in Khabarovsk and you are available anytime, you can schedule a call between 2:00 am and 6:00 pm your time. This time span will be between 7:00 am and 11:00 pm Khabarovsk time.

Quickly and easily compare or convert Perm time to Khabarovsk time, or the other way around, with the help of this time converter. Below, you can see the complete table of the conversions between Perm and Khabarovsk.

IMAGES

My Trek Farley 5 Fatbike drop bar conversion : r/fatbike
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Farley 9

COMMENTS

Can I Convert My Trek Bike to Electric? Here's What You Need to Know
When installing an e-bike conversion kit on your Trek bike, there are a few tips and tricks to keep in mind to ensure a successful installation. First, make sure to carefully read and follow the instructions that come with the conversion kit. This will help you understand how all the components fit together and reduce the likelihood of making ...
Has anyone converted a Trek bike to electric
Dec 12, 2020. #2. Yes. Alot of people have successfully converted a Trek to an ebike. I did it with a Trek cromoly frame with very few issues. One important note, with a 700w hub motor be ABSOLUTELY sure to install at least 1 tourque arm, as aluminum tends to fracture under such high out motors at the drop out.
Building a FAST ELECTRIC BIKE (With a 1500W Conversion Kit)
A complete build guide/process on An Electric Bike I recently converted that has a top speed of 66 KPH & 55-kilometre rangeThe final product has a top speed ...
Convert a 2016 Trek Farley 9.6 to electric
This thread here will help to determine how to measure the carbon fiber frame. You need to remove the bottom BB and do the measurements. Take into account the the BB maybe 41 MM and it will need an adapter to reduce the size to 33.6mm. Last edited by Rodney64; 10-27-2017, 10:11 PM .
trek farley 6 conversion advice
City. Halifax. Sep 12, 2015. #2. You might want to do more research. Steel frame is generally preferred for 750w+ systems. I have read numerous reports of bent aluminum frame. Surly has pugsly model.... Check electric fat bike blog , that guy is an expert when it comes to fat bikes and BBS02.
How I Converted a Trek Touring Bicycle to an Ebike
As the motor came from Ebike Essentials, every PAS level, 1 through 9, supposedly provides 10% more motor power from the previous PAS level, as follows, though I can't verify that levels 1 and 2 were actually performing as marked: PAS 0 - 0 % Speed & Current. PAS 1 - 20 % Speed & Current. PAS 2 - 30 % Speed & Current.
Best electric bike conversion kits and how to fit one
Best mid-drive for weight. 2. TongSheng TSDZ2 Mid Drive Motor. Check Amazon. Best mid-drive for weight. The TongSheng kit positions the motor at the centre of the bike, so it will fit to a wide ...
CYCMOTOR
Experience ebikes and emountainbikes like never before with the CYC mid-drive conversion kits. High power, torque sensing, and complete control. From 250W to 5000W, we've got you covered with the X1 Pro, X1 Stealth, and Photon solutions. Turn any bike into an ebike!
The 6 Best E-Bike Conversion Kits of 2024
BAFANG Ebike Conversion Kit. Amazon. View On Amazon $464. Since 2003, Bafang has been a leader in manufacturing e-mobility components and complete e-drive systems. Its products offer outstanding ...
Electric bike conversion kits
This particular option covers everything you need for a mid-drive motor conversion kit. As long as the bike you are starting with has a bottom bracket sized between 68 and 73mm, this kit will work ...
Farley
Bring on the big and tackle more terrain. Farley is a fat bike with incredible carrying capacity that lets you go further and farther than ever before.
Trek Bikes
Farley 9.6 utilizes a carry-forward OCLV Mountain Carbon frame with the new carbon fork that makes the rig light and fast — perfect for riders looking to race or just save weight. Farley 9 comes fully kitted as a utilitarian earth roamer. It includes front and rear racks, a direct mount frame bag, a direct mount fender, and two dry bag ...
Trek Farley 7 Review
The Trek Farley 7 is a burly, all-terrain trail bike with capabilities favoring winter. While primarily designed for snow and ice, the Gnarwhal tires, Mastodon suspension fork, and dropper post give this bike some versatility for shredding where it isn't frozen. The bike remained comfortable in many situations, from pounding out miles on ...
Trek Farley 5 Trail Fat Electric Bike 84v 3200w Cyc X1 Pro NEW Motor
Trek Farley 5 Fat bike, condition like new, frame size large (I'm 6.3 fits me nicely). Sram brakes, carbon front fork, really light and strong trial bike with bontrager gnarwhal tyres. ... 48V 1000W 26" Electric Bicycle Motor Conversion Hub Kit Rear Wheel E Bike CE. Electric Bikes Mountain Bike 26 Inch E-Bikes 36V 350W Motor City Bicycle ...
Trek Farley 5 Review
The Trek Farley 5 is one of the least expensive models in this review and a great value for a capable fat bike. Price aside, this bike has a solid all-around performance that is as good or better than some of the other fat bikes in this review. The Farley is reasonably lightweight and is efficient on the climbs with comfortable geometry and a ...
Trek Farley 7 Review
The Farley Lineup. Trek's Farley line currently consists of four complete bikes priced from $1,800 to $5,150. The line is split evenly between aluminum framed models (Farley 5 and Farley 7) and ...
Farley 7
Farley 7. 1 Reviews / Write a Review. $2,999.99. Model 5278200. Retailer prices may vary. Farley 7 is a burly fat bike built for roaming trails no matter the season. From dusty summer doubletrack to ice-packed singletrack, the huge 4.5-inch tires give you sure-footed stability and tons of traction. A suspension fork takes the sting out of rowdy ...
2023 Trek Farley 5 Review
The 2023 Trek Farley 5 is an all-rounder fat bike, capable of tackling any terrain - wet, icy or rocky. The bike features a lightweight Alpha Platinum Aluminum frame combined with 27.5 inch wheels, which allow for smooth maneuverability while travelling over sketchy surfaces. Additionally, the 27.5×4.5 inch fat tires provide excellent ...
Perm time to UTC conversion
Time difference between Perm and UTC including per hour local time conversion table. World Time Zone Map. Time Converter. Perm to UTC. 24 timezones tz. e.g. India, London, Japan. World Time. World Clock. Cities Countries GMT time UTC time AM and PM. Time zone conveter Area Codes. United States Canada. Time Zones.
Farley C Frameset
1 Reviews / Write a Review. $2,599.99. Model 5251807. Retailer prices may vary. Farley C is an OCLV Mountain Carbon fat bike frameset for four-season shredders who know fat bikes can be fast, high-performance machines — despite their oversized appearance. This insanely light fat bike frameset includes a Bontrager Haru carbon fork and is built ...
Ethnographic Park of the history of the Chusovaya river
The ethnographic complex 'The Museum of the History of the Chusovaya River' is located in the town of Chusovoy, 135 kilometers east of the city of Perm. You can easily reach Chusovoy by car, bus or train. The museum is located on the eastern outskirts of Chusovoy (you need to go along the mining route).
Perm: Europe's easternmost city
Long known as an industrial center, Perm is trying to reinvent itself as a cultural capital. Will the plan work? The city of Perm, located in the Urals foothills, is, geographically speaking, the ...
Perm time to Khabarovsk time conversion
Time difference between Perm and Khabarovsk including per hour local time conversion table. World Time Zone Map. Time Converter. Perm to Khabarovsk. 24 timezones tz. e.g. India, London, Japan. World Time. World Clock. Cities Countries GMT time UTC time AM and PM. Time zone conveter Area Codes. United States Canada.

Can I Convert My Trek Bike to Electric? Here’s What You Need to Know

Understanding the Different Types of Electric Bike Conversions for Trek Bikes

The Pros and Cons of Converting Your Trek Bike to Electric

What You Need to Know About Batteries and Power Systems for E-Bike Conversions

How to Choose the Right E-Bike Conversion Kit for Your Trek Bike

Tips and Tricks for Installing an E-Bike Conversion Kit on Your Trek Bike

Maintaining Your Converted Trek E-Bike: Care and Upkeep Tips

Exploring the Benefits of Owning and Riding an Electric Trek Bike

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The best electric bike conversion kits 2024 and how to fit them

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1. Swytch eBike Conversion Kit

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2. TongSheng TSDZ2 Mid Drive Motor

3. Voilamart 48V rear wheel kit

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How to convert your bike to an e-bike in four steps

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The 6 Best E-Bike Conversion Kits of 2024

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Blend in - it just looks like a normal bike

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