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4 charged in transporting suspected Iranian-made weapons. 2 SEALs died in intercepting the ship

jack's journey to yemen

Nav SEAL Deaths Charges This image released by the U.S. Department of Justice in an FBI affidavit filed in U.S. District Court, Alexandria, Va., shows what is described as Iranian-made warhead bound for Yemen's Houthi seized off a vessel in the Arabian Sea. Four foreign nationals were charged Thursday, Feb. 22, 2024, with transporting suspected Iranian-made weapons on a vessel intercepted by U.S. naval forces in the Arabian Sea last month. Two Navy SEALs died during the mission. (U.S. Department of Justice via AP, File) (Uncredited)

RICHMOND, Va. — (AP) — Four foreign nationals were arrested and charged Thursday with transporting suspected Iranian-made weapons on a vessel intercepted by U.S. naval forces in the Arabian Sea last month. Two Navy SEALs died during the mission.

The criminal complaint unsealed Thursday in U.S. District Court in Richmond alleges that the four defendants — who were all carrying Pakistani identification cards — were transporting suspected Iranian-made missile components for the type of weapons used by Houthi rebel forces in recent attacks.

“The flow of missiles and other advanced weaponry from Iran to Houthi rebel forces in Yemen threatens the people and interests of America and our partners in the region,” Deputy Attorney General Lisa Monaco said in a news release.

U.S. officials said that Navy Special Warfare Operator 1st Class Christopher J. Chambers was boarding the boat on Jan. 11 and slipped into the gap created by high waves between the vessel and the SEALs’ combatant craft. As Chambers fell, Navy Special Warfare Operator 2nd Class Nathan Gage Ingram jumped in to try to save him, according to U.S. officials familiar with what happened.

“Two Navy SEALs tragically lost their lives in the operation that thwarted the defendants charged today from allegedly smuggling Iranian-made weapons that the Houthis could have used to target American forces and threaten freedom of navigation and a vital artery for commerce," Monaco said.

Attorney General Merrick B. Garland pledged that the Justice Department “will use every legal authority to hold accountable those who facilitate the flow of weapons from Iran to Houthi rebel forces, Hamas, and other groups that endanger the security of the United States and our allies.”

Muhammad Pahlawan is charged with attempting to smuggle advanced missile components, including a warhead he is accused of knowing would be used by the Houthi rebels against commercial and naval vessels in the Red Sea and surrounding waters. He is also charged with providing false information to U.S. Coast Guard officers during the boarding of the vessel.

Pahlawan's co-defendants — Mohammad Mazhar, Ghufran Ullah and Izhar Muhammad — were also charged with providing false information.

Pahlawan's attorney, Assistant Supervisory Federal Public Defender Amy Austin, said Pahlawan had an initial appearance in U.S. District Court Thursday and is scheduled to be back in court Tuesday for a detention hearing. She declined to comment on the case.

“Right now, he’s just charged with two crimes and we’re just at the very beginning stages, and so all we know is what’s in the complaint,” Austin said when reached by phone Thursday.

According to prosecutors, Navy forces boarded a small, unflagged vessel, described as a dhow, and encountered 14 people on the ship on the night of Jan. 11, in the Arabian Sea off the Somali coast.

Navy forces searched the dhow and found what prosecutors say was Iranian-made weapons, including components for medium range ballistic missiles and anti-ship cruise missiles.

All 14 sailors on the dhow were brought onto the USS Lewis B. Puller after Navy forces determined the dhow was not seaworthy. They were then brought back to Virginia, where criminal charges were filed against four and material witness warrants were filed against the other 10.

According to an FBI affidavit, Navy forces were entitled to board the ship because they were conducting an authorized “flag verification” to determine the country where the dhow was registered.

The dhow was determined to be flying without a flag and was therefore deemed a “vessel without nationality” that was subject to U.S. law, the affidavit states.

According to the affidavit, the sailors on the dhow admitted they had departed from Iran, although at least one of the men initially insisted they departed from Pakistan.

The affidavit states that crew members had been in contact multiple times by satellite phone with a member of Iran’s paramilitary Revolutionary Guard.

Barakat reported from Falls Church, Virginia. Lolita C. Baldor in Washington contributed.

Copyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.

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  • Travel Guide

A Different Side To Travel: A Journey Through Yemen

Published: September 21, 2023

Modified: December 27, 2023

by Korry Mix

a-different-side-to-travel-a-journey-through-yemen

Introduction

Welcome to Yemen, a country rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. Nestled in the southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula, Yemen offers a unique and enlightening travel experience for adventurers seeking something off the beaten path. While the media often portrays Yemen as a land of unrest and conflict, there is so much more to this incredible country than meets the eye. In this article, we will take you on a journey through Yemen, exploring its historical background, cultural highlights, breathtaking landscapes, traditional cuisine, and the renowned Yemeni hospitality.

In recent years, Yemen has faced various challenges, including political instability and security issues. However, for travelers who exercise caution and stay informed, the rewards of visiting Yemen far outweigh the risks. By venturing to this hidden gem, you have the opportunity to delve into a world that has preserved its heritage, traditions, and way of life for centuries.

Yemen holds a prominent place in history, with ancient civilizations such as the Sabaean Kingdom, Himyarite Kingdom, and the legendary Queen of Sheba. These historical treasures are still evident today through the numerous archaeological sites that dot the landscapes. Stepping foot in Yemen is like stepping back in time, with every corner revealing remnants of a glorious past.

Prepare to be captivated by Yemen’s architectural wonders, such as the UNESCO World Heritage site of Old Sana’a, with its towering mud-brick buildings and intricate wood and stained-glass windows. The historic city of Shibam, often referred to as “the Manhattan of the desert,” will leave you in awe of its towering mud skyscrapers that have stood for centuries.

But Yemen is not just about its historical monuments; it is also a country filled with vibrant culture and traditions. Yemenis take great pride in their customs, from their traditional clothing to their lively music and dance. A visit to Yemen will introduce you to the rich tapestry of Yemeni art, crafts, and folklore, while the warm and welcoming Yemeni people will ensure you feel like a part of their extended family.

As you venture through Yemen’s diverse landscapes, you will be struck by its natural beauty. From the rugged mountains of Haraz and the breathtaking canyons of Wadi Hadramawt to the stunning beaches along the Red Sea and the Arabian Sea, Yemen offers a variety of outdoor adventures for nature enthusiasts. Explore hidden villages nestled amidst lush greenery, hike through pristine valleys, or dive into crystal-clear waters to witness the vibrant marine life that thrives along the coastline.

No journey through Yemen would be complete without indulging in its flavorful cuisine. Traditional Yemeni dishes feature an array of spices, herbs, and aromatics that tantalize the taste buds. From the famous lamb and rice dish known as “mandi” to the mouthwatering bread called “gahwah,” Yemeni gastronomy offers a unique blend of flavors and techniques that reflect the country’s cultural diversity.

Before embarking on your journey to Yemen, it’s crucial to obtain up-to-date travel information and take necessary precautions to ensure your safety. Stay informed about the current situation, seek advice from trusted sources, and consider traveling with a reputable tour operator who can guide you through the country with expertise and knowledge.

Come and discover the hidden treasures of Yemen, a land that is both breathtakingly beautiful and culturally rich. Immerse yourself in the history, embrace the warmth of the Yemeni people, and create memories that will last a lifetime. Get ready for a truly unforgettable adventure through the enchanting heart of Arabia.

Historical Background

Yemen’s history stretches back thousands of years, with the region being home to some of the oldest civilizations in the world. It was in Yemen where the legendary Queen of Sheba ruled and where the ancient kingdoms of Saba, Himyar, and Ma’in thrived.

The Sabaean Kingdom, also known as the Kingdom of Sheba, rose to prominence around 1,200 BCE and became a wealthy trading empire due to its monopoly on the lucrative spice and incense trade routes. Marib, the capital city of the Sabaean Kingdom, was a center of civilization and boasted splendid palaces, elaborate temples, and a remarkable irrigation system.

Another notable kingdom in Yemen’s history is the Himyarite Kingdom, which existed from the 2nd century BCE to the 6th century CE. The Himyarites were skilled sailors and established a vast trading network that extended from the Arabian Peninsula to India, East Africa, and even the Roman Empire. They left behind impressive architectural marvels, such as the fortress of Ghumdan in the city of Zafar.

Yemen’s strategic location also made it a coveted territory throughout history. It was conquered by several empires, including the Persians, Greeks, Romans, and Ottomans. Each empire left its mark on Yemen, influencing its culture, architecture, and traditions.

Yemen was also an important center of Islam during the early Islamic era. It was the birthplace of the Himyarite king, Dhunnunid dynasty, who converted to Islam and established the first Muslim state in Yemen. The city of Zabid, with its beautifully preserved mosque and madrasas, became a center of Islamic education and scholarship.

Throughout its history, Yemen has been a crossroads of cultures, religions, and trade routes. This rich blend of influences is evident in the diverse architectural styles, religious practices, and cultural traditions that still thrive in the country today.

Unfortunately, in recent years, Yemen has faced significant challenges, including political instability and conflict. These conflicts have taken a toll on Yemen’s historical sites and monuments. However, efforts are being made to protect and preserve Yemen’s cultural heritage, and many archaeological sites still offer a glimpse into the country’s glorious past.

A visit to Yemen allows you to immerse yourself in the footsteps of ancient kings and queens, explore the ruins of once-great empires, and witness the enduring legacy of a civilization shaped by centuries of history.

Cultural Highlights

Yemen is a cultural treasure trove, offering visitors a chance to immerse themselves in a vibrant tapestry of traditions, art, and customs. Despite its tumultuous history, the Yemeni people have preserved their rich cultural heritage, ensuring that their customs and way of life thrive.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Yemeni culture is its traditional dress. Yemeni men often wear a long, loose-fitting garment called a “thobe,” while women don colorful embroidered dresses known as “bint al-sahn.” These garments reflect both the Islamic modesty and the region’s unique style. The intricate patterns and vibrant colors of the fabrics showcase Yemen’s skilled craftsmanship.

Yemeni music forms an integral part of the country’s cultural identity. The mesmerizing sounds of traditional Yemeni instruments, such as the oud (a stringed instrument similar to a lute) and the qanbus (a plucked string instrument), fill the air at weddings, festivals, and social gatherings. The expressive melodies and heartfelt lyrics often reflect love, longing, and the beauty of Yemen’s landscapes.

Yemen is also renowned for its rich tradition of poetry and oral storytelling. Poetry has long been considered a paramount form of artistic expression in Yemen, and its poets are celebrated as national treasures. Yemeni poetry embraces themes of love, honor, and resilience, often conveying deep emotions and capturing the essence of Yemeni culture.

The architecture of Yemen is a testament to the country’s rich heritage. The old cities of Sana’a, Shibam, and Zabid showcase unique architectural styles, characterized by towering mud-brick buildings adorned with intricate woodwork and stained-glass windows. These architectural marvels have stood for centuries, reflecting Yemen’s enduring craftsmanship and a deep connection to its past.

Yemeni cuisine is another cultural highlight that should not be missed. Influenced by its Arab, Indian, and African neighbors, Yemeni cuisine offers a tantalizing array of flavors. Traditional dishes include the famous “mandi,” a savory lamb and rice dish cooked in an underground clay oven, and “salta,” a hearty stew made with vegetables, legumes, and aromatic spices. To complement the meal, sip on a cup of traditional Yemeni coffee, known as “qahwa,” and indulge in sweet delicacies such as “balah” (Yemeni honey cake) or “basbousa” (semolina cake soaked in rosewater syrup).

Yemeni hospitality is legendary, and visitors are warmly welcomed into homes and invited to share meals with locals. Yemenis take great pride in their ability to make guests feel at home, and the genuine kindness and generosity of the people create lasting memories for visitors.

From the vibrant traditions and captivating music to the architectural wonders and mouthwatering cuisine, Yemen’s cultural highlights offer a glimpse into a world steeped in history, artistry, and the warmth of its people.

Exploring the Landscapes

Yemen is a country of diverse and breathtaking landscapes, providing endless opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. From rugged mountains and fertile valleys to pristine beaches and picturesque deserts, Yemen offers a wealth of natural wonders waiting to be explored.

The Haraz Mountains, located in the western part of the country, are a paradise for hikers and nature enthusiasts. Towering peaks, lush terraced fields, and cascading waterfalls create a mesmerizing backdrop for treks and walks. The famous town of Manakha, nestled amidst the mountains, offers stunning views and a glimpse into traditional Yemeni village life.

The towering cliffs and deep canyons of Wadi Hadramawt, located in the eastern part of Yemen, are a sight to behold. The rugged terrain and stunning rock formations provide a dramatic landscape for adventurers to explore. Visit the ancient city of Shabwa, an archaeological treasure trove that transports you back in time with its well-preserved ruins.

The Yemeni coastline offers pristine beaches and clear turquoise waters, perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or simply relaxing. Al-Mukalla, located along the coast of the Arabian Sea, is known for its beautiful beaches, palm-lined promenades, and vibrant fish markets. The Red Sea coastline is a haven for divers, boasting colorful coral reefs and diverse marine life.

Yemen’s deserts are an enchanting sight, with vast stretches of golden sand dunes that seem to go on forever. The Rub’ al Khali, also known as the Empty Quarter, is one of the largest sand deserts in the world and covers a significant portion of southern Yemen. This barren and hauntingly beautiful landscape offers a sense of solitude and awe-inspiring views that are truly unforgettable.

Exploring Yemen’s landscapes goes beyond just admiring the scenery. The country is also home to numerous hidden villages that offer a glimpse into traditional Yemeni life. Take a break from the bustling cities and step into picturesque villages like Al-Hajjarayn or Al-Jawf, where time seems to stand still and the hospitality of the locals leaves a lasting impression.

When exploring Yemen’s landscapes, it is essential to respect the environment and follow any guidelines for preservation. Take care not to disturb the natural habitats and be mindful of the fragile ecosystems that exist.

Whether it’s hiking through majestic mountains, diving into crystal-clear waters, or roaming through vast desert landscapes, Yemen’s diverse and captivating landscapes offer an adventure like no other. Prepare to be mesmerized by the breathtaking beauty that awaits you at every corner of this remarkable country.

Traditional Cuisine

Yemeni cuisine is a culinary delight that tantalizes the taste buds with its rich flavors, aromatic spices, and unique cooking techniques. Influenced by Arab, Indian, and African culinary traditions, Yemeni dishes offer a distinct and unforgettable gastronomic experience.

One of the most well-known Yemeni dishes is “mandi,” a mouthwatering combination of tender lamb or chicken and fragrant rice. The meat is slow-cooked in a tandoor-like underground clay oven, infusing it with smoky flavors. The rice is seasoned with a blend of aromatic spices, including cardamom, cloves, and saffron, to create a fragrant and flavorful accompaniment. The result is a dish that is both savory and satisfying.

Another popular Yemeni dish is “salta,” a hearty and flavorful stew made with vegetables, legumes, and meat. Salta varies from region to region, but the base typically consists of a thick broth seasoned with a mix of spices like turmeric, cumin, and black pepper. Ingredients such as lamb, chicken, potatoes, carrots, and tomatoes are added to create a satisfying and nourishing meal. The dish is often served with freshly baked bread called “malawah” to soak up the flavorful broth.

No Yemeni meal is complete without a cup of traditional Yemeni coffee, known as “qahwa.” Yemeni coffee is famous for its intense aroma and unique flavor profile. The coffee beans are roasted and ground before being brewed in a traditional coffee pot called “dallah.” The strong and aromatic coffee is often served with dates, a symbol of hospitality in Yemeni culture.

Yemeni cuisine also includes a variety of breads, with “gahwah” being one of the most popular. Gahwah is a thick and fluffy bread that is often enjoyed with savory dishes or used as a scoop for dips and sauces. Another well-known Yemeni bread is “malawah,” a thin and crispy bread that is perfect for tearing and dipping into stews or enjoying with cheeses and spreads.

Sweets and desserts hold a special place in Yemeni cuisine, with traditional delicacies like “balah” and “basbousa” satisfying the sweet tooth. Balah is a Yemeni honey cake made with a blend of spices and topped with nuts, while basbousa is a semolina cake soaked in a fragrant rosewater syrup. Both are delightful treats that showcase the country’s love for sweet flavors and aromatic infusions.

When dining in Yemen, it’s common to share meals with others, as Yemenis value the importance of communal eating. Meals are often enjoyed together, with large platters in the center of the table, encouraging conversation, laughter, and a sense of togetherness.

Yemeni cuisine is a true reflection of the country’s culture and traditions, with every dish telling a unique story. The bold flavors, warm spices, and hearty ingredients combine to create a culinary experience that will leave a lasting impression on your taste buds.

Yemeni Hospitality

Yemeni hospitality is legendary, with the people of Yemen known for their warm welcomes, genuine kindness, and generosity towards guests. Travelers to Yemen are often pleasantly surprised by the overwhelming hospitality they experience during their visit.

Yemeni hospitality is deeply ingrained in the culture and is seen as an essential part of daily life. Yemenis take great pride in their ability to make visitors feel at home and ensure their comfort during their stay. From the moment you arrive, you will be treated with utmost respect and made to feel like an honored guest.

The welcoming nature of the Yemeni people is evident in their greetings. It is common for Yemenis to greet visitors with a smile, a firm handshake, and a warm embrace. This gesture instantly puts travelers at ease and creates a sense of familiarity.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Yemeni hospitality is the tradition of “qat chewing.” Qat is a leafy plant with mild stimulant properties, and it is traditionally chewed in social settings. Yemenis frequently invite visitors to join them in a qat session, where discussions flow, stories are shared, and bonds are formed. It is through these gatherings that true connections are established and friendships are forged.

When visiting a Yemeni home, you can expect to be offered a cup of traditional Yemeni coffee, known as “qahwa.” Yemeni coffee is more than just a beverage; it is a symbol of hospitality and generosity. The rich aroma and unique flavors of Yemeni coffee are meant to be savored slowly while engaging in conversation and building connections.

Yemeni hospitality extends beyond just food and drink. Yemenis often go out of their way to ensure visitors have a comfortable and enjoyable stay. Whether it’s offering a helping hand, providing guidance and recommendations, or inviting you to experience local customs and traditions, Yemenis are eager to share their culture and make your visit memorable.

Guests in Yemen are often treated as part of the family. Yemeni hosts take pride in offering their guests the best of what they have, whether it’s a simple meal or a comfortable place to rest. They believe that no one should leave their homes feeling unattended or hungry.

An important aspect of Yemeni hospitality is the concept of “dawar,” which means going above and beyond for guests. Yemenis go to great lengths to ensure that visitors are well taken care of and that their needs are met. This can include providing transportation, arranging accommodations, or assisting in navigating the local customs and traditions.

Yemeni hospitality is a reflection of the genuine kindness and generosity of its people. Their warm smiles, open hearts, and willingness to embrace visitors create an environment that fosters meaningful connections and unforgettable experiences.

When you visit Yemen, embrace the kindness and hospitality of the Yemeni people, and you will be rewarded with memories that will last a lifetime.

Precautions and Safety Tips

While Yemen is a beautiful and culturally rich country, it is important to exercise caution and be aware of safety considerations when traveling. It is essential to stay informed about the current situation and take necessary precautions to ensure your well-being. Here are some essential safety tips to keep in mind:

  • Stay informed: Before planning your trip to Yemen, research the current security situation and travel advisories issued by your country’s embassy or foreign affairs department. Stay updated on any changes or developments that may affect your travel plans.
  • Travel with a reputable tour operator: Consider traveling with a reputable tour operator who has extensive experience in organizing trips to Yemen. They can provide guidance, ensure your safety, and help navigate through any potential challenges you may encounter.
  • Respect local customs and traditions: Familiarize yourself with the cultural norms, customs, and traditions of Yemen. Respect local traditions, dress modestly, and be mindful of your behavior to avoid offending the local population.
  • Secure proper documentation: Ensure you have all the necessary travel documents, including a valid passport and appropriate visas. Check if there are any entry requirements specific to Yemen and comply with them before your trip.
  • Stay connected: Make sure you have a reliable means of communication, such as a local SIM card or a mobile Wi-Fi hotspot, so that you can stay connected with your tour operator, embassy, and loved ones in case of emergencies.
  • Stay vigilant: Maintain situational awareness at all times. Be aware of your surroundings, avoid crowded areas or demonstrations, and follow any instructions given by local authorities or your tour guide.
  • Avoid unnecessary travel at night: It is advisable to limit traveling at night, especially in unfamiliar areas. Stick to well-lit and busy areas, and use registered taxis or transportation services for added security.
  • Take necessary health precautions: Consult with a healthcare professional prior to your trip to ensure you are up-to-date on vaccinations and medications. Take precautions against insect bites, drink bottled water, and maintain good hygiene practices.
  • Secure your belongings: Keep your valuables secure and be cautious of pickpockets or potential theft. Use a money belt or a secure bag to carry your important documents and avoid displaying flashy jewelry or expensive accessories.
  • Follow local laws and regulations: Observe and abide by the local laws and regulations of Yemen. Familiarize yourself with the cultural, religious, and legal customs to avoid any misunderstandings or legal complications.

It is important to note that the security situation in Yemen can change rapidly, and it is crucial to stay updated with the latest information before and during your trip. As always, personal safety should be the top priority, and it is advisable to reconsider your travel plans if the situation becomes unstable.

By taking these precautions and staying informed, you can minimize risks and ensure a safer and more enjoyable travel experience in Yemen.

Yemen is a country that holds a wealth of treasures for adventurous travelers seeking an immersive and unique experience. Despite its challenges, Yemen offers a captivating journey through its rich historical background, vibrant culture, breathtaking landscapes, tantalizing cuisine, and legendary hospitality.

By exploring Yemen’s historical sites, you will step back in time and witness the ancient civilizations that once thrived in this land. The cultural highlights of Yemen, from traditional dress and music to architectural wonders and poetic traditions, provide a glimpse into a society deeply connected to its heritage.

The landscapes of Yemen are diverse and awe-inspiring, offering opportunities for hiking, diving, and exploring hidden villages. From the rugged mountains and deep canyons to the pristine beaches and vast deserts, Yemen’s natural beauty is unparalleled.

Yemeni cuisine, with its aromatic spices and flavorful dishes, will leave a lasting impression on your taste buds. The warmth and generosity of the Yemeni people make the experience even more memorable as you are embraced as part of their extended family.

Safety is paramount when traveling to Yemen, and it is crucial to stay informed, follow travel advisories, and take necessary precautions. By respecting local customs, securing proper documentation, and staying vigilant, you can enjoy a safer and more fulfilling experience in Yemen.

While Yemen has faced its share of challenges, the essence of its beauty and the resilience of its people continue to shine through. By venturing to Yemen, you not only embark on a journey of discovery but also play a role in supporting a country on its path towards stability and growth.

So, pack your bags, open your mind, and get ready for an extraordinary adventure through the hidden gems of Yemen. Explore a world steeped in history, immerse yourself in a vibrant culture, and create memories that will last a lifetime. Yemen awaits, ready to captivate your heart and awaken your sense of adventure.

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Yemen (mainland)

Yemen: hidden gem of the middle east.

The captivating mainland of Yemen, a destination brimming with unparalleled natural beauty, ancient history, and rich cultural heritage. Yemen offers a unique travel experience, from the breathtaking landscapes of Socotra Island to the architectural marvels of the Old City of Sana’a, a UNESCO World Heritage site. As you explore this enchanting country, you’ll be captivated by the warmth and hospitality of its people, who proudly showcase their vibrant traditions and customs. Delve into Yemen’s storied past as you wander through the ancient ruins of Marib or marvel at the striking mud-brick tower houses of Shibam . Don’t miss the opportunity to embark on an unforgettable journey through Yemen, where you’ll uncover a world of awe-inspiring beauty, timeless history, and unforgettable adventures.

jack's journey to yemen

Name: Republic of Yemen Capital : Sana’a Population: 2.5 million Surface area: 527,968 km² Language: Arabic Neighbouring countries: Yemen (Socotra) , Saudi Arabia to the north and Oman to the northeast

Yemen Hardamaut buildings

A truly unique paradise, hidden in the Indian Ocean. Hard-to-reach, but well organized by CultureRoad. rob (The netherlands)

Discover Al-Mukalla, a charming coastal city that boasts a rich maritime heritage and striking natural beauty. Visit the bustling fish market, explore the historic Al-Ghwayzi Fort, and enjoy the breathtaking views of the Arabian Sea, making it a perfect addition to your Yemen adventure.

Shibam, the Manhattan of the Desert

Venture into the ancient city of Shibam, known as the Manhattan of the Desert . You’ll find an extraordinary collection of centuries-old mud-brick tower houses that rise majestically into the sky. This UNESCO World Heritage site offers a fascinating glimpse into Yemen’s past, with its impressive architecture and stunning panoramic views from the city’s elevated vantage points.

A hidden treasure nestled within the breathtaking landscapes of the Hadramawt Valley. Unravel the mysteries of Wadi Doan’s rich cultural heritage as you explore its ancient mud-brick villages, striking architecture, and captivating history. This off-the-beaten-path destination promises an unforgettable adventure for travelers seeking a unique and immersive experience in the heart of Yemen’s awe-inspiring natural beauty.

Ancient Civilisations and Trade

Yemen’s rich and storied history dates back thousands of years, with ancient civilizations such as the Sabaean, Himyarite, and Hadhramaut kingdoms that flourished in the region. These kingdoms were renowned for their advanced engineering, agriculture, and vibrant trade networks, which connected them to the ancient world. The fabled Kingdom of Saba, believed to be the home of the legendary Queen of Sheba, was particularly famous for its prosperous trade in frankincense and myrrh, making Yemen a vital crossroads between East and West throughout antiquity.

The Rise of Islam and Dynastic Rule

The introduction of Islam in the 7th century led to a transformative period in Yemen’s history, as the region embraced the new religion and became a center of Islamic learning and culture. Over the centuries, various Islamic dynasties, such as the Abbasids, the Ayyubids, and the Rasulids, ruled Yemen, each leaving their mark on the nation’s art, architecture, and heritage. During the Ottoman Empire’s expansion in the 16th century, Yemen became a province under Ottoman rule, further influencing its cultural and political landscape.

Modern Yemen and Unification

In the 20th century, Yemen experienced dramatic changes, with the end of Ottoman rule and the emergence of two separate states: the Yemen Arab Republic (North Yemen) and the People’s Democratic Republic of Yemen (South Yemen). After decades of division, conflict, and negotiation, the two nations unified in 1990, forming the modern Republic of Yemen. Despite ongoing challenges, Yemen’s rich history, fascinating cultural heritage, and diverse landscapes continue to captivate visitors, offering a unique and unparalleled travel experience.

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Journey through Yemen – Yemen’s War and Travel

Sanaa Yemen What brings a traveler to places like this? Is it the desire to be so far from other travelers and achieve an authentic experience, or is it the thrill of stepping into the forbidden and unknown corners of the world?

When it comes to Yemen, I found my attraction drawn from its plethora of historical sights and its splendid natural beauty. But if I am to be one hundred percent honest with you the tremendous lure in coming to conflict areas like Yemen are the people. Yemen’s people are unlike anywhere I have ever been. Their hospitality is contagious, they smile even when there are airstrikes happening blocks away and no matter who you are, or what you believe in, they will be your lifelong friend.

This is what makes all the pain, all the danger, and all of the after effects worthwhile in venturing into finding the truth for yourself. This is Yemen, true Arabia.

Travel to Yemen Warning

Yes, it is true, I traveled through Yemen this winter for five weeks. Regardless of what you think of my journey here, the one thing you must understand is Yemen is not ready for tourism. I travel to these destinations not as a tourist, but as an experienced backpacker.

Traveling in any conflict zone brings risks, but I have a purpose for traveling to these places, and that is to bring awareness about the situation in Yemen, and help the people of this country in the future. If your reason for coming to Yemen is solely for adventure, then I urge you to consider waiting until the situation improves. Kidnappings, imprisonment, and armed conflict are a reality here. If you do choose to travel to Yemen, please do not contact me for advice until the conflict has ended.

Explaining Yemen’s War

The world has labeled Yemen’s war as the forgotten war . After driving across the nation for five weeks observing the countries conflict I can relay to you the Yemeni people’s perspective on the war. During my journey here I stayed with locals, interacted with coalition and Houthi supporters, was jailed, interrogated and witnessed the after effects of the death of former president Ali Abdullah Saleh.

After ousting the ex-president, Yemen began its civil war between the coalition and the Houthis. The situation is not as easy as this however, there are multiple other political groups claiming territory here as well. Here is a quick explanation of the largest groups in Yemen.

The Coalition

Backed by Saudi Arabia, and funded by the United States, the coalition is the remnants of Abdrabbuh Mansur Hadi’s government. Their territory makes up large areas in Marib, Hadhramaut, and their political headquarters in Aden.

The coalition is backed by Saudi Arabia who supports the war with airstrikes and attacking the northern frontline. Even though the coalition is supported by most western governments, their territory remains the most lawless and uncontrolled.

While driving from Oman to the capital city Sanaa in the coalition held territories I observed heavily armed groups carrying  ISIS and Al-Qaeda flags. My guide for the area also told me to wear local clothing and to lie about my nationality as our presence in these regions was risky.

Emerging from Sa’dah in northern Yemen the Houthi are of the Zaidis sect, and are predominantly Shia-led. The Houthi are led by Abdul-Malik al-Houthi, brother of the first leader, who was reportedly killed by Saleh’s forces. The Houthis control the capital Sanaa, and the territories around the Capital including the port of Al Hudaydah.

Ali Abdullah Saleh

The ex-president Ali Abdullah Saleh was allied with the Houthi for part of my journey in Yemen, but while I was in Sanaam,  Ali Abdullah Saleh began making overtures to work with the Saudi Alliance which resulted in armed conflict with the Houthi. During the fighting which ensued, Ali Abdullah Saleh was killed and his son Ahmed Ali Saleh took control of the forces dedicated to the ex-president and continued the conflict with the Houthi.

Other Governments

Many other territories in Yemen are split up. Even entire cities like Taiz are controlled by rogue leaders. More often than not, the territories under smaller groups are either working with or controlled and aligned with terrorist organizations like ISIS or Al-Qaeda. Their territories are confusing and hard to follow as they shift daily.

What it’s like to Travel through Yemen

Travelling through Yemen takes years of planning and plenty of obstacles. You cannot simply fly into Sanaa and expect to be let in. All travel here is actually banned, so logistically speaking you cannot travel to Yemen. It took a lot of planning for me to get there and I had to pull some strings to make it happen. With this post, I want to focus on bringing my perspective on the countries historical sights and its people.

Traveling here you must first take into consideration which territories are controlled by who. This is important as the rules change with every new territory you enter. Apart from the rules changing, the security changes drastically as well. For example, the Coalition territory was rather lawless, while the Houthi were more suspicious of me and required more permits.

Knowing the security situation in each region is based on the control each government has. The Coalition being quite lawless allows terrorist organizations to run rampant in their territories. Knowing how these groups think is essential to your safety. Their main goal is no different than the majority of the governments and that is to create a state governed by them. The thing is, they are willing to go to much more drastic measures to get what they want. As a foreigner, you become a target. They can kidnap you for money which will help supply their warfare.

The next factor is knowing the war. Understanding how war works is essential to keeping yourself safe in these kinds of places. Yemen’s conflict is unique, however. Every day I was in Sanaa, the Saudi Alliance conducted precision bombing into the city. Many times these bombs were in close proximity or directed at targets near me. These airstrikes often killed innocent civilians.

Yemen’s war is also changing fast. While in Sanaa, former president Ali Abdullah Saleh started making overtures to the Saudi Alliance in direct conflict with his previous alliance with the Houthi. The city quickly turned into an all-out war, making our travel plans come to a halt.

The security and combat are definitely big obstacles, but the hardest factor is witnessing the after-effects of war. The ones who suffer the most are the civilians of Yemen. Traveling here, every day you will see people suffering from disease, poverty, and conflict.

My Journey through Yemen

Never has a country captured my heart quite like Yemen. Its nature is pristine. Its historic sights are breathtaking. And Yemen’s people are the most hospitable I have ever met. If it wasn’t for all the war, Yemen would be a travelers dream. It is a country like no other! When the war is finished – which I hope is as soon as possible – come here and you too will discover why I am so in love with this place. This is a brief account of my journey through Yemen mainland.

From Oman, we crossed the remote northern desert border. Yes, It is one hundred percent possible! I entered with a company as a tourist. I had no special permission at this point. From here it was a long, nine-hour drive to Seiyun, the capital city of Hadhramaut.

The lush valleys around Seiyun take you back in time. The mudbrick houses line the rivers while superb rock gorges tower above replicating the Grand Canyon. Life here is simple. Most people make their living from farming the fertile valleys. The remoteness has left the region quite traditional.

In the valley, we visited a few incredible places. The first was Wadi Dawan. It is famed for its untouched towns, palaces, and natural beauty. The second was the legendary city of Shibam, which is dubbed as the Manhattan of Arabia with its eight-story ancient mudbrick towers. Lastly, we visited Tarim, which has plenty of historic cemeteries and mosques.

Leaving Hadhramaut, you enter the endless sands of the Empty Quarter . Here is also the ancient Sabaean kingdom. Hidden in the sands are ancient ruins of the little known Sabaeans they ruled the region for almost 1500 years and the kingdom of Saba’ has been linked with the biblical land of Sheba.

This region is also one of the most lawless in Yemen. Crossing the vast desert, you come across small communities which exist solely to supply travelers with petrol and food. It is like a scene from Star Wars Tatooine. You will find groups like ISIS and Al Qaeda here, however, and is not a good place to be for too long.

Pushing further on through the sands you pass by Saudi and Emirati oil fields, who of course have ties with the USA ripping the black gold from the land. They create checkpoints that you must go through, and they are not the least bit friendly to foreigners being here as you can probably imagine.

Once in Marib, we stayed with a local Bedouin family, who I am quite sure had more arms than the Coalition themselves. This family who took us in also brought us safely to see the ancient ruins nearby.

Sana’a

This is where the real journey began. With the highway being closed between Marib (Coalition) and Sana’a (Houthi) no foreigners have been able to cross the region. There is, however, a mountain road that takes you through the back door into Houthi controlled territory.

Leaving the Coalition frontline, you pass by lines of tanks, artillery and mountain outposts covered with snipers. It was a scary sight. The pavement ends and you cross through remote mountain villages and plenty of refugee camps. After four hours we finally reached the Houthi line of control. Their green and red flag can be seen from miles away. The checkpoint is filled with rebel fighters adorned with headbands, random camouflaged jackets, and a stern look on their face. They greeted us well however and granted us permission in!

Seven more hours of driving finally brought us to the capital city Sana’a. Sana’a is like a dream. The old city brings you back in time to old Arabia, its thousands of mosques blare out the beautiful Adhan , and the streets are full of life. Sana’a is by far my favorite place in Yemen.

Sana’a, however, has faced plenty of the cruelties of war. With countless airstrikes every day, many buildings have been reduced to rubble. Much of the city has no running water or electricity. The resilient Yemeni people have fixed this, however. Solar panels now power the city, and water is brought in every day with trucks. It’s an incredible sight!

Manakhah and Jabal Haraz

After exploring the culture hub of Yemen we headed off to the Haraz Mountains. Here the rock villages defy gravity, clinging to the sides and tops of 3000 m plus peaks. Nowhere have I ever seen such exquisite mountain communities. Sometimes the buildings reach five stories high meanwhile being situated right on the edge of a cliff. These building can also be over 500 years old!

These villages are living museums, and the people who live here keep Yemeni culture at its most traditional. We stayed with a family in Manakhah who treated us with local cuisines, hiking and cultural lessons like how to tie a turban. We hiked here for several days from village to village and were greeted with such amazing hospitality. This seemed like the safest region in Yemen for me. Apart from the steep mountain roads, I felt no danger here.

From Manakhah we drove to Al Mahwit, yet another dazzling mountain community. On route back to Sanaa we stopped at the historic Kaukaban and Shibam.

Unfortunately, because of the circumstances, we could not continue from here. On our fifth week, we caught a flight with the ICRC (Red Cross), to Djibouti.

Yemen’s Future

Finally, this is where I will give my two cents on what I have seen in Yemen’s war.

Yemen is a unique destination. The people are resilient, and the country will most definitely prosper when the war is resolved. If you read headlines like “Yemen is the next Syria” or “This is the Year Yemen Was Destroyed” ( As Vice so eloquently put it), I encourage you to blatantly accept all of this media as propaganda. I can tell you from experience there were no news agencies on the ground in Yemen, all of their news is provided by sources that have their own agendas.

Who will gain control and power of the nation at the moment is unknown, but talk to any local and they will tell you regardless of the outcome, the PEOPLE will come together to make the country prosper once again.

To simply put it, Yemen is not being divided by its own people, but instead, it is the influence of foreign powers. Even the radical groups coming to Yemen are foreign. Ask the Coalition or the Houthi’s who the real enemy is, and they will tell you it’s the ones dropping bombs and killing innocent people. It’s the ones stealing Yemen’s plentiful resources. Yemen is yet another nation to suffer because of the greed of first world powers.

Yemen is not lost as the media wants to put it. Yemen is just how it used to be. The country is filled with delightful surprises, charming people, and pleasing natural wonders.

As for Yemen’s future, the war is temporary. When the struggle comes to an end, the country will recover and become just as indescribably beautiful as it was before.

Why I love Yemen

Yemen, like no other country, has captured my heart in this specific way. Even after having to leave due to war, all I think about is going back. Yemen is in a simple way, beautiful. Its remote deserts, sublime mountain scenery, picture-perfect historical sights, scrumptious cuisine, buzzing markets, and most of all, its people who have left an everlasting impression of kindness and hospitality.

I will be going back to Yemen, in fact, I will dedicate every effort I can with Uncharted Backpacker to promote travel to this wonderful nation because the moment any traveler steps foot here, they will be addicted just like I am.

This is a huge thanks to all my friends in Yemen. You are all amazing and I cannot wait to return and chew Khat, eat massive meals, and explore more of paradise with you!

Yemen is not ready for tourism at the moment, but the future is hopeful. Let this post take you into one of the Uncharted Backpackers favorite destinations so that in the future when the war is over you too can see how special this land is.

Yemen Travel Video

Yemen travel information.

Travel Company Used: Cameleers Tours

Guide Book: Yemen Bradt

Interactive Yemen War Map:   https://yemen.liveuamap.com/

Map App I used for Yemen: Maps.me

My Route: 

Follow me as there will be plenty more Yemen posts to come!

Stephen Gollan

Uncharted Backpacker is a glimpse at the past eleven years of globetrotting I have done. Now at over ninety countries I share my travel knowledge for you so you too can travel the world and see what wonders it has to offer.

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18 comments

Amazing to read about your trip! I lived in Yemen for years and long to go back. I miss the country and my friends so much. It is great that you made this trip despite the war and all the negative news. Yemenis are fantastic people and deserve our attention and most of all peace!

Such an amazing article absolutely love it and I am so proud of the person you have become.

Stunned to see the picture of my family in law, the Al Agel family in Manakha. My Yemen husbsnd and I are now in the Netherlands, messing our Yemen family and friends. All attention for Yemen is welcome. Thank you so much for sparing your story about this wonderfull country and its people which desperately need peace.

Stunned to see the picture of my family in law, the Al Agel family in Manakha. My Yemen husband and I are now in the Netherlands, missing our Yemen family and friends. All attention for Yemen is welcome. Thank you so much for sharing your story about this wonderfull country and its people which desperately need peace.

Hello! I lived in Sanaa some years ago and your itinerary brought pure joy to my heart! Thank you and if you ever want to use your platform to feature more foreigners in love with the real Yemen I would be happy to share my experience and help raise awareness! I’m so happy you wrote such an honest account of life in Yemen, even in war. Jazakallah kheiran ????⚪️⚫️

Amazed to see the photo of my family in law in Manakha, the Al Agel family. So good of you to undertake the trip in these hard times for Yemen. Beautifull country and wonderfull people who desperately need peace. Regards from the Netherlands from Mohamed and Andrea Al Harazi

Thanks for sharing – great story and pictures. Are now in the midst of planning to go with some friends in april. We will also enter overland through Oman and cover the Hadramaut region only – who is you contact/guide? Are you willing to share. we are now in contact with a Mr. Mohamed Shaif from Yamant travel. // Michael

Tears of joy reading this article. I spent most of 2005 living in Sanaa and travelling the whole country. Love for this land is not choice. It is instant the moment you leave the airport. I spent my time there in constant wonder. Beauty is everywhere. The people are noble, generous, funny and often crazy. I had so many adventures in my year living on the top floor of an ancient mud house in the centre of the old city. Oh those sunsets and monsoon rains and the electrical storms! Nothing by halves. I camped on beaches so beautiful I’m not sure why the bombs are being dropped there when the whole cost could be a tourist riviera! Dolphins chasing giant tuna whilst eating local flat bread and bbq’ed fish. The markets in Sanaa were unforgettable. Incredible silver made by the old Jewish community, fabulous natural remedies for any ailment. Beautiful carved wood and bejewelled robes. Thank you for such an un uplifting article. You give me hope for Yemen.

Hi Stephen, such an interesting article. I’m following the “forgotten war” day by day and few months ago I had the same curiosity to go there and understand what is really going on there despite what media say (or do not), but I don’t have enough experience. One thing I’ve noticed from your post is that you’re portraying Yemen and even Sana’a with beautiful pictures and no violence or devastation images as we all see from media every day; is that a choice or there are other reasons? Also I was wondering how is the situation in Socotra, is it accessible? Respect for what you’ve done, helpful post.

Hey thanks for the Comment! So as for the pictures of devastation I will post some,but not on this post. This post is to show that despite the war and all the atrocities there is an amazing country. As for Socotra I did not go, but i am getting contacted by many companies that claim they do operate tours there, whether they are legitimate I do not know.

How good it is to hear from our beloved Yemen, even if the pretty photos should not hide a different reality for thousands of Yemenis. How did you get a visa and where? I made 8 trips to Yemen and 6 to Socotra, I had to cancel my trip in 2015 for lack of a visa. Today it is really impossible to obtain a visa by the “normal” way of the embassy.

Thanks a lot for sharing such amazing article, as Yemeni citizen, I can confidently say that you had more experience and info about Yemen more than a lot of Yemenis. Deeply appreciate your initiative to visit and write about Yemen during the hard period.

Good luck and hope to see more in future

Wonderful to read something so positive about Yemen and Yemenis. I lived there in 1981-3, in Jebel Hufash – beyond Mahwit, and more beautiful still – and long to go back again. I last visited in 2009. I fervently hope this amazing country becomes safe again, for my Yemeni friends and for tourists.

Good work, Stephen. Lived in Yemen in the ‘golden years’ (2004-07) when I could travel from Sa’adah to Socotra, from the Tehama to the Hadramawt. Andindeed, scenery, culture and especially the people make a stay in Yemen an unsurpassable experience.

Just read this post. Going to Yemen has been a distant dream of mine for years now, and I think it’s great there are travel bloggers like you who do this kind of traveling and reporting. This is the kind of content I want to read. Amidst the listicles and empty pretty pictures saturating the travel blogosphere, you are a true inspiration. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you so much!

Stephen, you are really adventurous. I am from Yemen , specifically from Marib. I wish I had had the chance to meet you and your friends. I live few kilo meters from the Barran temple you visited. I hope to see you again in Yemen .

Hello, Thank you for the amazing insight and look into the country. I’ve yearned to visit it for a long time, ever since childhood when I came in contact with Mandi for the first time. The history, landscape and people intrigue and captivate me. I hope to visit it someday too.

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A Yemeni’s harrowing journey through the ‘Gate of Tears’

After risking everything for a better life in Djibouti, Abdullah Muhammad says he may have to return to war-torn Yemen.

DO NOT USE: Yemeni refugee in Djibouti

Obock, Djibouti – With just the clothes on his back and $7 to his name, Abdullah Muhammad says it’s a “miracle” he managed to make it out of Yemen alive.

Standing in the blistering heat of a parched, dusty road in Obock, t he holes in his jeans and sweat dripping from his worn-out shirt are the only visible signs of the gruelling seven-day journey he made to reach safety.

The ferocious sandstorms that routinely ravage  the small port town  are a welcome change from the gunfire and air strikes that decimated his hometown, he says. But with his mind still preoccupied with the safety of the family and friends he left behind, he’s unsure of what to do next.

When Yemeni ground forces backed by Saudi Arabia encircled his village of  Masraba in  Taiz province , Muhammad’s family saw Djibouti – an impoverished country that sits 100 kilometres west  of Taiz – as the only hope of saving their son from the clutches of the advancing troops.

“Someone began spreading false information that I was a Houthi sympathiser, despite my well-known secular views,” Muhammad told Al Jazeera.

“When I made a few posts on Facebook criticising exiled President Abd-Rabbu Mansour Hadi they were mistaken for Houthi propaganda. Within a few days, I received four death threats from pro-government trolls.

“My parents, fearing I could be kidnapped or assassinated, told me to run – the only safe place for me was abroad.”

With his parents fearing the worst,  Muhammad’s mother sold all the gold and jewellery  she possessed to pay for her son’s journey westward.

Carrying just a bottle of water, the $210 his mother gave him, and a rucksack full of his prized possessions, the 28-year-old spent the next six days walking back and forth across southern Yemen, trekking through barren wastelands and deserts – cowering to the ground each time a Saudi F-15 fighter jet roared overhead.

“I went from Masraba to Aden but was turned back by pro-government forces,” he said.

“The situation was repeated in Mokha and Mandeb before I finally reached a fishing port at Ras al-‘Ara. I must have walked 300km in total; it was exhausting.

“I think I was suffering from heat stroke, but what would await me was far worse.”

I've spent $3 over the last two days, all I have remaining is $7 - that won't last long. If I can't find work I'll have to risk it all again and head back home to Yemen. by  Abdullah Muhammad, 28-year-old Yemeni refugee

Crossing the Gate of Tears

Once at Ras al-Ara, Muhammad was introduced to a fisherman ferrying a family of desperate Yemenis to Obock in northern Djibouti.

A tiny nation of over 800,000 people, Djibouti  has become a haven for Yemeni refugees fleeing Saudi-led air strikes that have gripped the country since March 2015.

Paying the trafficker $200 to guarantee him safe passage, he says seven people were loaded onto the overcrowded wooden boat.

Forced to toss away his bag as it occupied too much space, Muhammad says he curled himself into a small ball, with barely enough room on the 4.3-metre vessel to stretch out his legs.

“In total, there were nine of us on board – two men, five women, myself and the captain. All of us except the captain began to recite passages from the Quran once we hit rough seas.”

The captain gave Muhammad qat (a mild narcotic) to chew, saying it would make the long journey bearable. But strong winds and  waves lashed the boat around, less than 10 minutes after it  set sail.

“The journey should have taken a few hours, but because the captain feared being attacked by the Saudi coalition we took a longer route in. We were at sea for more than a day. It was a frightening ordeal.”

Tens of thousands of Yemenis have fled on small rickety boats across the Bab al-Mandeb Strait, known as the Gate of Tears – a name derived from the long history of people perishing when trying to cross it – with at least 37,248 arriving in Djibouti.

The journey is not without risk, said Vanessa Panaligan, the UN ‘s media relations officer in Djibouti, with at least 500 deaths reported between the start of the war and February 2018.

“There were at least 160 arrivals in December and another 70 in January,” she told Al Jazeera.

“Prior to that, we were accustomed to seeing only a few new families coming in every month, but now we’re seeing large numbers arriving, sadly a lot of them are single mothers.”

The risk of coming under coalition fire has also increased, highlighted by an attack on a boat carrying more than 150 people, including children, last March.

At least 42 people were killed when a  US -built Apache helicopter opened fire on a boat departing from Yemen’s western city of Hodeidah.

Saudi Arabia  refused to cooperate with the UN in an investigation into the attack.

 

‘Death surrounds Yemenis’

The conflict in Yemen, now entering its third year, has changed dramatically since the assassination of former president and strongman, Ali Abdullah Saleh.

His death in November opened a complicated new chapter in the conflict and a deeper polarisation among the country’s warring parties.

The Houthis , who seized large parts of the country, including the capital, in late 2014, intensified their campaign of intimidation and violence to instil fear into anyone protesting their grip over northern Yemen.

A spike in arrests, kidnappings and killings followed, with any dissenting voices being accused of working with the Saudi-led coalition, which has been bombing Yemen since March 2015.

Hemmed in by the fighting, more than 18 million civilians are currently living under Houthi control, with the remaining 30 percent of the population – 10 million Yemenis – forced to live in areas contested by armed groups, including al-Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula (AQAP), the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant ( ISIL , also known as ISIS), and militias backed by the UAE .

The humanitarian situation has also taken a scarier turn, with at least 10 million Yemenis – a number greater than the entire population of Sweden – requiring immediate humanitarian assistance.

Radhya Almutawakel, the chairperson of Mwatana, a Yemeni human rights organisation, said normal life in Houthi-held areas had “vanished.

“Both the Houthis and pro-government forces have been involved in serious violations, including the recruitment of child soldiers, attacks against hospitals, indiscriminately shelling civilian areas, and blocking the flow of humanitarian aid,” she told Al Jazeera.

“The situation in Taiz is really dire, with death surrounding Yemenis.”

‘Anywhere is better than here’

After more than 24 hours at sea, and just a few minutes on dry land, Muhammad began questioning whether there was any going back.

“I breathed a sigh of relief, but I knew my problems were far from over,” he said.

Around 600,000 people, more than 60 percent of the country’s population, live in and around the capital, Djibouti city, but with unemployment hovering around 45 percent, close to 400,000 live in slums with minimal basic services, including clean water.

Temperatures also reach up to 50C (122F) during the summer months, and with little to no job opportunities, many of the incoming refugees have decided to head back home.

“The first thing the police did is take my passport,” Muhammad  said.

“I’ve received no assistance from either the local authority or UN agencies. I’m living off the kindness of others, which can’t last long.”

With at least 155,000 people food-insecure and successive years of drought damaging pasture zones, most Djiboutians rely on food assistance and remittances from abroad to survive.

“Once I get my passport back I want to head somewhere else. Maybe Australia will take me in,” Muhammad said.

“I’ve spent $3 over the last two days, all I have remaining is $7 – that won’t last long.

“If I can’t find work I’ll have to risk it all again and head back home to Yemen.”

Follow Al Jazeera’s Faisal Edroos on Twitter:  @FaisalEdroos  

Djibouti, a tiny nation of 800,000 people, is a haven for nearly 40,000 Yemenis who have fled air strikes that have devastated their country [Faisal Edroos/Al Jazeera]

WTOP News

Bobi, named world’s oldest ever dog, loses title after investigation

February 22, 2024, 12:16 PM

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jack's journey to yemen

(CNN) — Bobi the dog, who died last year reportedly at the age of 31, has been stripped of the world’s oldest ever dog title following a review by Guinness World Records (GWR), the organization announced Thursday.

Bobi, a Rafeiro do Alentejo, had been known as the world’s oldest dog until he provisionally lost his title in January pending the result of a GWR investigation.

Now the organization has said it “no longer has the evidence it needs to support Bobi’s claim as the record holder.”

Mark McKinley, director of records at GWR, said in a statement Thursday the company takes “tremendous pride” in verifying its record holders.

“Following concerns raised by vets and other experts, both privately as well as within public commentary, and the findings of investigations conducted by some media outlets, we felt it important to open a review into Bobi’s record,” said McKinley.

“Central to Bobi’s evidence was microchip data sourced from the Portuguese government database, the SIAC, which it transpires, when chipped in 2022, did not require proof of age for dogs born before 2008,” added McKinley.

“With the additional veterinary statement provided as evidence for Bobi’s age also citing this microchip data, we’re left with no conclusive evidence which can definitively prove Bobi’s date of birth.”

Bobi’s owner has been told about the findings of the review, according to GWR, which said it would assess any new evidence that is provided.

For now, it is not clear who holds the title of oldest dog ever.

“We’re not yet in a position to confirm a new holder for the record, although we certainly hope that the publicity around the record title encourages pet owners from around the world to get in touch,” said McKinley.

Bobi’s journey to the record holder title

Bobi died in October. His owner, Leonel Costa, claimed that he had lived until the age of 31 years and 165 days.

There were many secrets to Bobi’s extraordinary old age, Costa, who said he was 8 years old when his dog was born in 1992, told GWR in February 2023.

Bobi always roamed freely, without a leash or chain, lived in a “calm, peaceful” environment and ate human food soaked in water to remove seasonings, Costa said.

He spent his whole life in Conqueiros, a small Portuguese village about 150 kilometers (93 miles) north of the capital Lisbon, often wandering around with cats.

Bobi was a purebred Rafeiro do Alentejo – a breed of livestock guardian dog – according to his owner. Rafeiro do Alentejos have a life expectancy of about 12-14 years, according to the American Kennel Club.

But Bobi lived more than twice as long as that life expectancy, surpassing an almost century-old record to become the oldest living dog and the oldest dog ever – a title which had previously been held by Australian cattle-dog Bluey, who was born in 1910 and lived to be 29 years and five months old.

The-CNN-Wire ™ & © 2024 Cable News Network, Inc., a Warner Bros. Discovery Company. All rights reserved.

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jack's journey to yemen

A Lasting Peace? Yemen’s Long Journey to National Reconciliation

  • A Lasting Peace? Yemen's Long Journey to National Reconciliation
  • السلام الدائم: رحلة اليمن الطويلة للمصالحة الوطنية

Subscribe to This Week in Foreign Policy

Ibrahim fraihat ibrahim fraihat associate professor of international conflict resolution - doha institute for graduate studies.

February 11, 2013

Content from the Brookings Doha Center is now archived . In September 2021, after 14 years of impactful partnership, Brookings and the Brookings Doha Center announced that they were ending their affiliation. The Brookings Doha Center is now the  Middle East Council on Global Affairs , a separate public policy institution based in Qatar.

As Yemenis sit down to their long-delayed national dialogue, they face an array of challenges that threaten to pull the country apart – from an unfinished revolution to regional demands for independence. Can Yemen grapple with its legacy of dictatorship and violence and prevent another slide into civil conflict?

In a new paper from the Brookings Doha Center, A Lasting Peace: Yemen’s Long Journey to National Reconciliation , Ibrahim Sharqieh outlines a process of national reconciliation that is Yemen’s best hope for stability.

Based on extensive field research and interviews with key Yemeni figures, Sharqieh describes the challenges facing post-revolutionary Yemen and the key actors in the country’s national reconciliation, from the Islamist Islah Party to the country’s tribes. He also lays out the mechanisms for a successful reconciliation process, discussing not only the country’s nascent national dialogue but also the sort of transitional justice bodies that must follow it. Finally, he concludes with how the international community can help Yemen achieve reconciliation – and warns against regional and international powers acting as spoilers.

Download » (English PDF)

Foreign Policy

Middle East & North Africa Yemen

Noha Aboueldahab

August 23, 2021

Yasmina Abouzzohour

August 19, 2021

Just one dream left: a dangerous journey through Yemen

Lahj, Yemen: The migrant route from the Horn of Africa through Yemen is one of the busiest and arguably most dangerous in the world. Despite the ongoing conflict, tens of thousands of migrants from the Horn of Africa continue to come to Yemen by boat, mainly with hopes of reaching the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) and other Gulf states to secure better livelihood opportunities.

jack's journey to yemen

Posted on 05 Jun 2023

Written by Nuha Haider

Amal*, 19 years old, is from a poor family in Ethiopia. Her father keeps sheep – the family’s only source of income. Amal dreamed of improving life for her family. After hearing from relatives whose lives had improved after they found work in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA), Amal decided to travel there. Her family managed to collect four thousand Birr (around 74 US dollars) to be paid to smugglers to facilitate her journey.

My neighbour, cousin and I traveled 40 days ago from Ethiopia to Djibouti via boat. We stayed in Djibouti for four days, each one paid four thousand Birr to the smugglers to deport us to Yemen. We were 70 people in a boat, the majority were women.

/  Amal

Migrants face multiple threats to life and human rights violations as they travel through Yemen, including targeted attacks, trafficking, arbitrary arrest, and detention. Women and girls are particularly vulnerable, with high reported levels of gender-based violence.

Amal did not know about the obstacles that were waiting for her. She was kidnapped with a group of migrants on the coast in Lahj, southern Yemen. After the male migrants were detained in separate places from women, Amal lost her cousin and was alone.

After the kidnap, Amal was taken to a mountainous area in Lahj. Here she was held, verbally abused, and blackmailed while a ransom was demanded from her family. After a month of being kidnapped, Amal began to break down and cry continuously, begging to be let go. Finally, she was released, along with two other female migrants. Amal had nothing but the clothes she was wearing:

"When I left my village, I had a small bag in which I put some clothes in it, but when I arrived in Djibouti and before we boarded the boat, the smugglers threw all our belongings into the sea so that it would not burden the boat."

Alone, and with nothing in a foreign country, Amal and the two other migrants didn’t know where to go or anyone who could help them. They started walking, and when night fell, they entered one of the villages to sleep until early morning to resume the journey. But after her traumatic experience, Amal could not stay long.

IOM’s Displacement Tracking Matrix (DTM) recorded 73,233 migrant arrivals in Yemen in 2022. DRC protection teams are working to provide assistance to migrants on the move, some of the most vulnerable people in Yemen.

IOM’s Displacement Tracking Matrix (DTM) recorded 73,233 migrant arrivals in Yemen in 2022. DRC protection teams are working to provide assistance to migrants on the move, some of the most vulnerable people in Yemen.

"I wasn't comfortable to see people in the village, their voices remained me of the kidnapers, I felt panic, and I couldn't sleep, I ran out of the village alone. I did not know where I was going, and all I wanted was to get away from this area.” said Amal.

DRC’s protection team found Amal on the road at 9am, signs of fatigue and hunger appearing on her pale face, her clothes were torn, and she did not have any bag with her. Amal says, " When I was kidnapped, we were eating only one meal per day, which was rice not well cooked," she adds

DRC team provided Amal with a dignity kit that included clothes and hygiene items, dry food with water, two meal vouchers and first aid. DRC team also provided Amal with free phone calls, so she was able to contact her family in Ethiopia to let them know she was safe. DRC is able to provide emergency, lifesaving assistance, but more support is urgently needed to assist vulnerable migrants like Amal across Yemen.

For Amal, after suffering through the trauma of kidnap and the hardship and danger of travelling through a conflict zone alone and without support, she has just one dream left.

“I just wish I could return to my home; I don’t want anything else.”

Nicole Kidman and Sarayu Blue Deliver an Emotional Monologue in 'Expats' Finale Sneak Peek [Exclusive]

The limited series comes to an end with its sixth and final episode on February 23.

The Big Picture

  • Nicole Kidman and Sarayu Blue deliver emotional monologues in the Expats finale, showcasing stories of loss and struggle.
  • The series Expats took 6 years from announcement to release, facing a myriad of obstacles including pandemic delays.
  • Expats showcases the challenges faced by 3 women in Hong Kong, grappling with personal and professional struggles.

Nicole Kidman and Sarayu Blue are drumming up plenty of emotion in an exclusive to Collider clip for the finale of their Prime Video series, Expats . During the miniseries’ journey to its sixth and final episode, which arrives on February 23 , Kidman’s Margaret and Blue’s Hilary have dealt with heartbreaking events that would tear down even the strongest among us. In their direct-to-camera monologues, each woman talks about loss, depression, and the daily tasks that seem mundane and simple one day and that are flipped into arduous pieces of labor the next. Speaking from a place of struggle and trauma, tears well up in the eyes of both friends, teasing that a gripping final episode is just around the corner.

So far this season, audiences have watched as Margaret’s desire to stay in her home in Hong Kong with her husband, Clarke ( Brian Tee ) went from being ready to move back to the United States to desperate to pause and find her missing child after he disappeared in a busy gathering place. Meanwhile, Hilary has been facing her own set of challenges as her once healthy and loving relationship with her husband David ( Jack Huston ) turned sour with the pair headed for divorce. Filling out the story’s trio of women is Mercy ( Ji-young Yoo ) who, as the babysitter for Margaret’s family, is grappling with inner demons after she views herself as responsible for allowing the young boy to be kidnapped.

‘Expats’s Journey From Page to Screen

It took six years from the time that Expats was announced until it finally landed on Prime Video in January of this year . Based on Janice Y.K. Lee ’s 2016 novel, The Expatriates , the engaging story of three women presented with the toughest challenges that life could toss their way was perfect for an on-screen adaptation. After nabbing the critically acclaimed filmmaker Lulu Wang ( The Farewell ) to helm the series, it seemed like the production would be unstoppable. Little did the team know how many road bumps they would hit along the way.

Firstly, there was the challenge of getting Wang on board for the project as the director had numerous reservations about the responsibility and pressure she felt about getting the story right. Being that the idea for the series was up and running before 2020, there was simply no way that anyone could have seen the COVID-19 pandemic coming in the future, causing a major setback for the title’s filming schedule. Nevertheless, the team persisted and, eventually, production on Expats came to an end and received its long-awaited premiere on Prime Video .

Watch Kidman and Blue absolutely serving in the clip below and get caught up on the first five episodes of Expats on Prime Video before the finale lands on February 23.

Expats 2023 Poster

A look at the personal and professional lives of a tight-knit group of expatriates living in Hong Kong.

Watch On Prime Video

jack's journey to yemen

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jack's journey to yemen

Welcome to the Jack’s Journey website

Jack’s Journey is all about family! Our family supporting other families around Cumbria who have set off on a similar journey to ours, down the road of childhood cancer.

By providing financial support and, in the future, holiday accommodation, we hope to alleviate some of the stresses that a childhood cancer diagnosis brings.

Around the website you’ll be able to find out who we are, how we try to help, what we’ve done, and what we plan to do! Hopefully somewhere around here you’ll find the motivation and inspiration to join us on our journey, and help others on theirs; through childhood cancer and out the other side!

Coming soon!

Tickets are available now for the 3rd Annual Jack’s Journey Winter Ball. See here for more info

jack's journey to yemen

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Registered Address: 1 Went Meadows Close, Dearham, Maryport, Cumbria CA15 7HN

Jack’s Journey is a Charitable Incorporated Organisation registered in England & Wales

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jack's journey to yemen

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Robyn Mak joined Reuters Breakingviews in 2013. Previously, she was a Research Associate for the Global Policy Programs at the Asia Society in New York where she focused on US-Iran relations, US-Myanmar relations and sustainability issues in Asia. She has also worked as a researcher at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace in Washington DC and interned at several consulting firms, including the Albright Stonebridge Group. She holds a masters degree in international economics and international relations from the Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies and is a magna cum laude graduate of New York University.

A general view of a new crude distillation unit under construction at Exxon Mobil's refinery in Beaumont, Texas

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A general view of a new crude distillation unit under construction at Exxon Mobil's refinery in Beaumont, Texas

Strategic clarity fuels US oil giants’ M&A spree

U.S. and European oil giants sell the same product in the same global market. But they are on diverging paths. While American groups like Exxon Mobil and Chevron are buying up smaller drillers, their European rivals such as Shell , BP and TotalEnergies are largely sitting on their hands. Part of the explanation is a transatlantic disagreement about the long-term outlook for oil.

The sun sets behind a crude oil pump jack on a drill pad in the Permian Basin in Loving County

WETM Elmira

Dr. Coleman’s journey to Elmira

E LMIRA, N.Y. ( WETM ) – Dr. Stephen Coleman has been a fixture in the Twin Tiers for the last three decades. He first got involved in politics in 1960 at the age of nine.

“I used to hang out at the local democratic political headquarters in Hingham. It was 1960, nine years old. Jack Kennedy was running for president and I got really involved. Actually passed out pamphlets for Jack Kennedy.”

Dr. Coleman holds a PhD in political science and a master’s degree in journalism. Both from Boston University. Since then, he’s taught at Northeastern University and Rutgers University. While at Northeastern, he began wearing different costumes to make his lessons more memorable.

“I think that wearing the costumes, using different voices, having muppets creates a fun atmosphere to learn. One time when I was in class, I dressed up as George Washington. Another time as a punk rocker.”

He later became the Dean of Faculty and Vice President of Academic Affairs at Elmira College. Soon after, the community activist began providing political commentary for news outlets in the Twin Tiers.

In doing his Political Pundit Nights, Coleman has made a legion of fans and critics and he’s made it clear. He has no problem with that.

“During the years, I have had folks that have really enjoyed my political analysis and commentaries and agreed with them. Others really can’t stand me and can’t stand what I’ve had to say and disagree with everything. That’s fine, congratulations. If I’ve had that impact on you, I’ve succeeded.”

Full Interview with Dr. Coleman:

Coleman has also received numerous awards and helps organize Unity in the Community events in Elmira.

“There’s synergy in Unity in the Community. People getting together and realizing they have power. they can make a difference.”

Over the years, the pundit has spoken to many familiar names in the political arena.

“Fortunate to be able to interview Hillary Clinton when she was running for the senate. This is before she was running for president and she was secretary of state and all that. Interviewed Ted Kennedy on a plane when it was going from Logan Airport to New Bedford, Massachusetts.”

He has also seen many changes in American politics.

“People and families aren’t talking to one another because someone wants Donald Trump and another person wants Joe Biden. It’s become dysfunctional, polarized, horrible. Washington is in paralysis and our democracy. Our democracy is in real trouble.”

Coleman considers himself financially conservative, but more liberal on social issues. Heading into November’s presidential election, he sees many important issues the next president will have to face.

“The border issue is a big deal. Somehow that has to be addressed and it shouldn’t be addressed by clownsmanship between the democrats and the republicans on national TV. The leaders of both parties have to do something. They have to compromise. I think that’s a big deal. I think Ukraine is a big deal.”

For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to WETM - MyTwinTiers.com.

Dr. Coleman’s journey to Elmira

How to travel to Yemen (mainland) in 2024

By Joan Torres 11 Comments Last updated on January 4, 2024

Yemen-travel-featured

Yemen is a country which has been taken from a fairy tale, a destination that overawes each and every visitor who is captivated by the mesmerizing architecture that dots the unexpectedly radiant and fertile valleys that comprise the country.

Local men strolling the streets with their colorful jambiya – traditional dagger – are the cherry on top that make Yemen such a unique country, because there’s nothing like Yemen; not only in terms of sights, but years of isolation have made Yemen an incredibly raw country, where travelers can still experience Yemeni rural life as it used to be centuries ago.

Traditionally grouped in tribes with strong codes of conduct that tend to prevail over the country’s law, their rules dictate that one must protect their guest, with their own life if needed, and treat them like one more member of their family.

The result is a particularly warm and welcoming society whose main aim is always watching over your safety and to feed you with the best honey and Yemeni food.

Yemen is certainly one of the most legendary countries in the world.

In this travel guide to Yemen , you will find the latest, updated info on how to travel to Yemen, including safety, how to get a visa and more.

Yemen travel guide

In this Yemen travel guide, you will find:

Table of Contents

  • COVID-19 Restrictions

Need to know before traveling to Yemen

  • Which regions can you visit?
  • Top experiences
  • Is it safe to travel?
  • How to get a visa
  • Travel Insurance
  • Best time to visit
  • Useful books for traveling
  • Independent travel
  • How to get to Yemen
  • The country, people and culture
  • Yemeni food and cuisine
  • Solo female traveler
  • Money and prices
  • Transportation
  • Where to stay
  • More Information

😷 COVID-19 restrictions for traveling to Yemen

As of today, there are no COVID-19 restrictions for visiting Yemen.

Travel Insurance for Yemen with COVID-19 coverage

IATI Insurance  is one of the few providers that offers full Coronavirus coverage, not only when it comes to treatment, but also cancellation costs in case you tested positive before departure. 

It’s also the only travel insurance that covers travel in Yemen.

Readers of Against the Compass can get an exclusive 5% discount .

Yemen is a complicated country which is going through an even more complicated conflict, and it’s important to understand what are you getting into.

There are 2 Yemens, north and south

Before visiting Yemen, you should know that the country is divided into two separate, big regions:

  • Yemen Arab Republic, also known as North Yemen
  • People’s Democratic Republic of Yemen, also known as South Yemen

By the way, the capital Sanaa is in North Yemen.

In the 19th century, North Yemen was under Ottoman rule, while Britain controlled the South.

When the Ottoman Empire collapsed in 1918, North Yemen became an independent state, but the British ruled over South Yemen until 1967.

After the British withdrawal in 1967, North and South Yemen were two separate UN countries until they unified in 1991, becoming the Yemen Arab Republic.

North Yemen is where most issues are happening

As a traveler, you need to be aware that, despite the unification, this division is still part of every-day Yemen, both politically and culturally.

Yemeni people

First of all, all the bad things you hear about Yemen, like famine and aerial bombings – the world’s worst humanitarian crisis according to some sources – are mostly happening in North Yemen, a region today controlled by the Houthis , a militia that belongs to a branch of Shia Islam, who want to take control of the country.

Saudi Arabia is trying to get rid of them.

Update March 2023: Now that Iran and Saudi are in peace , nobody knows what will happen

South Yemen is mostly pro-Saudi, but it’s pretty messy too

South Yemen on the other hand, is controlled by the Yemeni Government, which is extremely pro-Saudi.

However, the members of the Government do not live there anymore; they are all exiled in Saudi Arabia , leaving the country mostly under the control of the Yemeni Army. It’s quite a mess.

To make things even more complicated, part of South Yemen is controlled by the STC (Southern Transitional Council) , a separatist group who want South Yemen to become an independent country.

They are supported by the United Arab Emirates, who fight against Saudi over power, believe it or not.

As a foreign traveler, North Yemen is today off limits. More on that in the following section.

What's happening in Yemen

Which region of Yemen mainland can you visit?

Can you visit north yemen.

Today, North Yemen – and that includes the capital Sanaa – is practically impossible to visit.

The area is not under the jurisdiction of the Yemeni Government, hence getting the necessary security clearances and permits for going through all the checkpoints is difficult.

Difficult, not impossible, but, even with all the necessary permits, there is a high chance of getting arrested, like happened to a friend of mine who spent one week traveling in North Yemen, until the Houthis decided to lock him up for a week, giving him a very hard time.

You might bump into a fixer who sells you the yummy, irresistible idea of traveling all the way to Sanaa but in my opinion, this is still a bit sketchy, and my recommendation would be to wait until things calm down a bit more.

I’ll be updating this post as soon as I figure out more about visiting Sanaa.

Fun fact: How many tourists visit Yemen mainland each year? Less than 200 people visit Yemen (mainland) each year.

Can you visit South Yemen?

From the western city of Aden all the way to the border with Oman , South Yemen comprises around two thirds of the country, but the only place you can visit is a region named Hadramut, the only stable region in the country.

That’s where I traveled to.

Hadramut is a beautiful, mostly rural region home to jaw-dropping valleys and postcard-like mud-villages often dominated by hypnotic palaces once owned by the local sultans.

Shibam, a city entirely built of 9-story mud-brick buildings in the middle of the desert, is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site and by far, the highlight of Yemen.

Hadramut by itself is certainly worth the trip to mainland Yemen.

Can you visit Socotra?

Socotra is a remote Yemeni island, which has unique geology and flora, as well as being home to a Yemeni society with significant cultural differences due to their isolation from Yemen mainland.

For many years, Socotra has been sort of a hotspot for intrepid travelers looking for some real off the beaten path adventures. The island is used to receiving visitors, so you can find some relatively developed tourism infrastructure run by a few local tour operators.

Visit Hadramut

🛖 Top experiences in Yemen

Visiting the mud-brick towns like shibam.

And I specify towns because this isn’t like the tiny mud villages you may find in Mali or Sudan but they are actual towns built in the past as caravan cities.

Shibam

Shopping in a khat market

In addition to sparing one day for chewing khat, visiting one of the many khat markets with tens of stalls selling all sorts of types and quality of khat is a real highlight.

Khat in Yemen

Meeting Yemeni people

With their daggers, traditional clothes, smiles and hospitality, meeting Yemenis are an essential part of any trip to Yemen.

Yemen highlights

Trekking around Wadi Doa’n

This canyon-shaped valley offers plenty of trekking opportunities through unspoiled villages and spectacular views.

Trekking in Yemen

Is it safe to travel to Yemen?

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) advises against all travel to Yemen , including both the Yemeni mainland and Socotra.

Yemen travel advice

I have done safety analysis for several countries – only from a tourist perspective – and my answer to the FCDO advice is always the same: their analysis is extremely biased and based on extremely unlikely scenarios, since they want nothing to do with travelers venturing in those areas if the extremely unlikely happens.

The situation in Hadramut is arguable, yes, but Socotra is an isolated paradise that always stayed at the edge of the conflict, the reason why it keeps receiving thousands of tourists every year.

My personal perspective on safety in Yemen

You have already learnt that, when talking about Yemen, one must be able to differentiate between North Yemen and South Yemen, the first being the apparently dangerous part of the country.

However, I haven’t been in North Yemen, so I can’t really verify whether that region is safe or not.

Actually, nobody does, since you can’t really travel there nowadays.

Similarly, South Yemen is pretty big, but the only place which can be visited is Hadramut, so this section will mainly focus on safety in Hadramut.

Is it safe to travel to Hadramut?

This is a difficult question to answer.

When I was traveling around Hadramut, everything felt very safe indeed, and it shouldn’t be a coincidence that Hadramut is the only area in Yemen which foreigners are allowed to visit.

Hadramut Insurgency

Nonetheless, we can’t deny the fact that from 2016 to 2018, Hadramut had a large presence of Al-Qaeda and ISIS, terrorist groups that were even controlling the regional capital: Mukalla.

For nearly two years, suicide bombings and actual fighting happened nearly every day.

The situation, however, has drastically improved, since the area has been cleared up from terrorists, hence they decided to open it for international tourists.

Still, one must travel to Hadramut with extra caution but at the end of the day, you will certainly do that because:

  • Independent travel is not allowed and one must always be with their local guide, who will not allow you to wander around on your own
  • You must be accompanied at all times by Yemeni armed escorts during your trip in Hadramut, and you must pay for their service.
  • There are endless checkpoints

It’s difficult to say whether Hadramut is safe or not: your trip to Yemen will be rather short, you will always be with armed escorts and an expert fixer who knows where to go and how to deal with complicated situations.

Would it be safe if you traveled to Yemen as an independent backpacker?

We don’t know because nobody has done it.

Is it safe to travel to Yemen

How to get a visa for Yemen

A visa is strictly required for traveling to Yemen.

Good news is that all nationalities can apply for a tourist visa, an easy, straightforward process – as long as you can afford it.

Bad news is that you can only get it through a local fixer, with whom you must book a full tour – like in Syria – and it’s usually pretty expensive.

Join our Yemen tour and get your visa instantly, with no hassle!

Typically, the visa takes around 1 full month to process, but this is Yemen, and it’s recommended to get in touch with your local fixer/tour operator way before that.

Everything can be arranged on WhatsApp, and all you need to do is send a copy of your passport, a passport photo and a filled-out form.

In addition to the Yemeni visa, your local tour operator/fixer will also apply for a security clearance, something needed for going through all checkpoints.

Your fixer should send you your visa via email and all you have to do is print it out and collect your stamp upon arrival in Yemen.

The visa process for Socotra is pretty similar, but it’s a distinct process that shall be done with Socotra-specific tour operators. A visa for mainland Yemen is not valid for Socotra and viceversa.

My entry visa for Yemen

🚑 Travel insurance for Yemen

Don’t travel to Yemen without travel insurance. I recommend IATI Insurance because:

  • One of the very few that covers travel in Yemen.
  • Different plans for all budgets.
  • It covers senior citizens too
  • Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

⛅ Best time to visit Yemen

Like in other Gulf countries, such as Oman or Saudi Arabia , you should avoid traveling in Yemen during the summer months.

I visited Yemen in the month of November. Days were warm but rarely over 30ºC and evenings were pleasant.

📚 Useful books for traveling in Yemen

Yemen travel guide by lonely planet.

Very outdated (1999) but the only available guidebook to the country.

Yemen travel guide Lonely Planet

Tribes and Politics in Yemen: A History of the Houthi Conflict

Indispensable book to understand everything related to today’s conflict.

Tribes and Politics in Yemen

A pictorial guide to Yemen by Sian Pritchard-Jones & Bob Gibbons 

My friends and fellow travelers Sian and Bob just published this pictorial guide to Yemen which also contains fresh and actionable advice to the country. 

jack's journey to yemen

Independent travel in Yemen mainland

Can you travel in Yemen mainland independently?

Unfortunately not.

Today, independent travel in Yemen is strictly forbidden, including within Hadramut.

My fixer in Yemen told me the story of a Japanese traveler who tried to escape while having an after-lunch break at the hotel, time which the tourist took advantage of to buy or rent a motorbike.

He was detained at the first checkpoint and wasn’t allowed to leave until the fixer showed up.

Moreover, traveling in Yemen is so restricted that you can’t even change your itinerary once permits have been issued, because those permits must specify the dates you will be in each area of Yemen.

travel to Hadramut

🗺️ Tours for Yemen

Remember that independent travel in Yemen is not possible nowadays, like no way.

Against the Compass, however tends to always have scheduled group expeditions into Yemen.

Learn more about our Tours for Yemen

🛫 How to get to Yemen

Insurance for traveling to Yemen I strongly recommend IATI Insurance : Yemen coverage + 5% discount BUY IT HERE TO GET YOUR SPECIAL DISCOUNT

How to travel to Yemen by air

Today, the only feasible way to travel to the Yemeni mainland by air is with Yemenia Airways via Cairo to a city named Seiyun.

There are 3 to 4 flights a week and tickets must be purchased via a tour agent based in Cairo , the contact of which should be shared by your Yemeni tour operator.

In my case, I reached out the mentioned tour agent on WhatsApp, who told me to wire her the total cost of the flight ticket to an Egyptian bank account.

The round-trip ticket from Cairo to Seiyun cost 870USD.

After a week, she acknowledged receipt of the money and sent me a copy of my flight ticket, also on WhatsApp.

It was a strange but a pretty simple and legit process.

Fly to Yemen

How to travel to Yemen by land

Yemen shares a border with Oman and Saudi Arabia.

How to travel to Yemen from Oman

The border is fully open because the region of Salalah in Oman leads directly to Hadramut.

Nevertheless, my fixer stopped picking up travelers from the Omani border because as of today, the scenic coastal road that leads to Mukallah is controlled by the STC, therefore it remains closed to foreigners.

Alternatively, you can use the northern road, but that involves driving over 600km (one-way) through an empty desert, and that’s something he doesn’t really want to do anymore, especially because he would have to come all the way from Seiyun and back, a 1200km journey.

How to travel from Saudi to Yemen

With proper clearance, you can use the Al Wadeeah border.

I know a few people who have crossed into Saudi from Yemen using that border, but I don’t know anyone who has actually entered Yemen from there.

Travel reports on that matter are welcome.

Chewing khat in Yemen Khat is a local plant and a drug – similar to coca leaves – typically consumed in Yemen but also in the Horn of Africa , especially in Somalia, southeast Ethiopia , Djibouti and North Kenya . Yemeni men are addicted to it and basically, life stops every day after lunch time for chewing khat. It’s an actual social problem because khat isn’t cheap and there are many Yemeni men who spend their wages on this drug rather than buying food for their families. Still, if you are traveling in Yemen, you must spare one afternoon to chew khat with the locals. If you buy the best quality one, it will give you an extra dose of energy and that night you won’t sleep.

roads in Yemen

🕌 The country, people, and culture

Yemen is actual Arabia, the place where it is believed the Arabs come from, and the birthplace of the Sabaeans , a group of Ancient South Arabians who founded Sheba, home to worldwide famous Queen of Sheba, all stories that appear in the Quran and the Hebrew Bible.

In terms of GDP per capita, Yemen is among the poorest countries in the world and, along with Afghanistan , Haiti , and North Korea, the only non-African country that makes it to the list.

Despite its location, Yemen is the only country in the peninsula that doesn’t belong to the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) an agreement between the Gulf States – Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman , Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates – similar to the EU.

Culture in Yemen

Yemenis are purely Arabs but from a traveling perspective, sometimes I feel they do have a slight South Asian (Pakistani) twist, in the way they eat and behave, different from the rest of the Gulf States.

This shouldn’t be surprising, however, since the coast of Yemen has been benefited from the frankincense trade for centuries, receiving visitors from many parts of the world, specially from South Asia.

Tribal laws in Yemen

They are grouped in tribes and, similarly to Pashtuns in Afghanistan , their tribal laws dictate their daily life.

Like Pashtuns, Yemenis treat their guests even better than family members but at the same time, they are really, really conservative and their acts might be subject to certain rules that may create absolute rejection to international visitors.

For example, without wanting you to fall into a Yemeni stereotype, a woman having extra marital relations is considered one of the most dishonorable things that could happen to a family.

In the city of Seiyun, an unmarried woman was caught in the house hanging out with an unrelated man. They weren’t caught having sex, but they were just sitting together. After doing their own research and investigation, the family decided to murder her by cutting her head off.

Such is the strength and importance of their tribal laws that in these cases, the police decide not to intervene.

By the way, this was an extreme case carried out by an uneducated family. Most Yemenis condemned such an act.

Yemen highlights

In Yemen, they speak Modern Standard Arabic.

Religion in Yemen

Islam is the state religion, 35% of the population being Shia and 65% Sunni.

Women in Yemen

Yemen is the most conservative country I have ever been to, even more than Afghanistan.

Nonetheless, you need to remember that I only visited the region of Hadramut, a rural and remote area of Yemen, where people are probably more traditional than in the capital Sanaa.

Still, I was particularly shocked by some of the things I experienced.

100% of the women wear niqab

Except for one beggar, we never saw the face of a woman, but all of them were wearing the niqab, which covers everything but the eyes.

You are not allowed to talk to women, not even to look at them

The only female interaction we had was the day we got hissed at by a local woman while we were sitting in the car.

All we did was smile at her, but she reacted by hissing at us.

She basically told you to fuck off – our fixer said.

Saudi women are surprisingly liberal compared to Yemeni

One day, while walking around a village, we heard some young women talking and laughing, something we had not witnessed in that country yet.

They are very liberal – our fixer said. And the reason was that those young girls had been born in Saudi and they came to Yemen to visit their family.

While Saudi women might seem extremely conservative, you are likely to talk with them when you are traveling in Saudi . A Saudi woman wearing a niqab asking for a selfie isn’t rare, plus they work in many supermarkets and shops.

Local women with long hats When traveling around Yemen, you will notice many local women wearing some pretty high hats. They are farmers and they use those hats to protect themselves from the heat. Apparently, that shape helps to keep their heads cool. These woman are among the poorest in Yemen and they despise being photographed.

Women in Yemen

🍲 Yemeni food and cuisine

Yemeni food is heavy and mostly based on meat and rice, but I believe it is the best food in the peninsula.

In fact, Yemeni mandi is one of the most common dishes in Oman, UAE, and Saudi.

Yemeni restaurants don’t usually to have tables but people gather on a circle on the floor and eat with their hands from the same plate.

Why is Yemeni honey so famous?

For a long time, Yemen was believed to produce some of the best and purest honey in the world, coming from bees that are fed exclusively from the flowers of the Sidr tree, which also has therapeutic properties.

Honey plays a big role in Yemen’s economy and according the UN, more than 100,000 households depend on it for their livelihoods.

Yemeni honey

Is there alcohol in Yemen?

Yemen is a dry country, you can’t buy alcohol legally.

💃 How to travel in Yemen as a solo female traveler

Yemen might possibly be the most challenging country in the world to travel as a female traveler, way more difficult than in Afghanistan.

In Afghanistan, foreign women don’t need to wear the burqa, but a hijab is enough, like in Iran .

However, in the region of Hadramut, foreign women must wear the niqab in all public spaces, markets and pretty much everywhere, but in the hotel and in the wild.

You may remove your niqab when you are in the car, but not when going through villages and checkpoints.

Is it safe to travel in Yemen as a female traveler?

As long as you are accompanied by men, traveling in Yemen as a woman is safe.

If you removed your niqab, you’d get a lot of attention but if you are wearing it, nobody will dare to tell you a thing.

Solo female travel in Yemen

💰 Money and prices

In Yemen, they use Yemeni Rials (YRI) and approximately:

$1 = 250 YRI

This is the official currency.

Recently, in South Yemen, they have started using a different, unofficial currency also named Yemeni Rials, but with a different value.

With South Yemen Rials,

$1 = around 1000 YRI

I never understood why South Yemen adopted a different currency and how the value was defined but, in any case, if traveling to Hadramut, that’s the only currency you will see.

ATMs and exchanging money

Your debit or credit card will be useless in Yemen, so do bring everything in cash.

The only currency which I recommend bringing is US dollars. They didn’t even want to exchange my Euros, at an acceptable rate at least.

Your US dollars should be brand-new, they are very strict about this.

They actually found a tiny ink stain in one of my bills and they didn’t accept it, even though I received a bunch of dirty Yemeni Rials in exchange.

How much does it cost to travel in Yemen?

A tour to Yemen booked through a local fixer is always all-inclusive, so it’s difficult for me to say what are the actual prices of the most typical things, including hotels and restaurants.

What I can tell you however is that a solo trip to Yemen is expensive, with prices starting at $4,500 for a solo 6-day tour, excluding international flights.

If you want to travel to Yemen for less, I recommend joining a group .

🛺 Transportation: how to move around Yemen

It will be difficult for me to write much in this section since I only moved around in a private car, and you are certainly going to do the same.

roads in Yemen

🏨 Where to stay in Yemen

I stayed in two different hotels:

Hawta Palace Hotel : a traditional boutique hotel in the city of Seiyun. It has a pleasant garden where many local families hang out in the weekends by paying a fee.

Hayd Aljazeel Resort : a mountain resort in Wadi Doa’n with awesome views to the valley.

Both were pretty amazing and I believe the two best options in the area. Other than that, I don’t recall seeing many hotels besides basic ones.

💻 Internet in Yemen

Can you buy a SIM card in Yemen?

You can, but in the region of Hadramut, 4G barely works.

We did have some decent Wi-Fi in the hotel in Seiyun but that’s all what we got during our trip.

Get a VPN for traveling in Yemen

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Yemen. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

❗ More Information

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

  • Iran Travel Guide
  • Palestine Travel Guide
  • Syria Travel Guide
  • Travel Guide to Lebanon
  • Iraq Travel Guide
  • Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
  • Travel Guide to Oman

You might also like our Haiti travel guide .

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

visit Yemen

11 comments

Once I spend one week in Sanaa and around. The moment I stepped out of the plane I regretted it. I was much younger then, I wouldn’t repeat it again. Nobody should support such despicable people, nobody should help with money or otherwise people who are undescribably racist, intolerant, mysogynistic, who don’t respect basic human rights.

Hello Joan,

As I told you before, my grandmother was born in Sana.

That’s why I want to go to Yemen so much.

But I want to see Sana too, so I’ll wait for the conditions to improve a bit.

You can put me first when you organize a tour that includes Sana…

I’m going on a month long trip to Indochina with my wife this Saturday.

Stay healthy.

Fatih UGURLU

Hello Fatih, I hope the situation gets better and you can visit your grandmother’s hometown soon!

Hi Joan, can you please share the contact to the fixer you had for your trip to Hadramaut?

Sorry, I can’t do that, but you are welcome to join our tour: https://expeditions.againstthecompass.com/tours/yemen/

How do you find the fixers?

l was working with a humanitairian organisation for four months in 2023 in northern Yemen. It is a very beautiful country, indeed, with rich culture and kind people. Unfortunately though, it is still a war country, so I think its quite dangerous to travel there. Even if the situation north and south is different, is alltogether dangerous and unpredictable, so personally i would wait till peace comes in order to travel there.

Hey, American living in Russia married to a Russian. Russians almost unanimously agree that North Yemen is a great place to travel to. I’ve heard similarly overblown warnings against Dagestan, and when I traveled there it was totally safe (never mind that I am living in Russia now as an American, and have had absolutely no issues from Russia’s end).

Wondering if there’s some difference between diplomatic recognition by native countries which might influence the experience? For example, Russians seem to go to North Yemen.

Hi Collin, in my opinion, it’s not a matter of safety , it’s just that they aren’t officially issuing visas to travel to North Yemen, so any visit will be sort of sketchy from a legal perspective

Hey, how are you? I have a Jordanian passport and i do not need a visa for all of Yemen, i verified through the embassy. When i asked about permits to travel around the country they said they dont know, do you have any information on how to travel around Yemen independently, for people from visa exempt countries ?

Hi Yahya, we just had one guest from Kuwait (he doesn’t need a visa either) and even then, you’ll need a security clearance and a guide with you

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JRS Jordan: A Journey to Yemen Through Flavors and Stories

10 february 2022.

jack's journey to yemen

Gehad’s kitchen table is covered with colors and flavors, a rainbow of red meat, green lettuce, white garlic, and various spices. She starts washing, chopping, and mixing, then all the ingredients sit together in a pot, simmering above the fire. Through this pot, Gehad is bringing us back to her country, Yemen. The flavors and smells of Saltah, a traditional Yemeni dish, accompany her story of how she arrived in Jordan, with her husband Esam, their son Ra’fet, and their daughter, Raghad.   

“The political parties in Yemen were forcibly recruiting children as young as the age of fourteen to train them to fight in the civil war,” Gehad tells us. “At that time, I started to notice a change in my son’s way of thinking. He started to become interested in the conflict-related affairs in our country. Out of fear that my son may join the armed groups and become a suicide bomber, we fled to Jordan in 2018.”  

Their arrival to Jordan wasn’t easy.  

“One of the most difficult things a refugee faces is dire financial circumstances. Refugees constantly struggle to provide for themselves and their families due to the lack of work opportunities. To be able to work requires a working permit, which a refugee would face many barriers to obtain, such as initially acquiring a residency permit. This additionally contributes to refugees struggling to afford high rent prices.” To support their family, her husband started working in a restaurant and making desserts. Gehad helped him prepare the food.  

“We tried hard to make it through the hardships together as one family,” she says.  

While we talk and cook together, her husband shows us a pottery pot called Al-Haradah, from Yemen, necessary for the cooking of Saltah. Her son arrives with a tray full of large Yemeni flatbreads that a neighbor prepared and little Raghad plays around her mother.  

jack's journey to yemen

Gehad continues her story: “We started to learn new skills in the hopes of improving our living conditions. I signed up for a sewing course in one of the local centres,” she says.  

“When the coronavirus outbreak began, I used my new skill to create and sell face masks. I sold simple designs to a Quran centre and then I helped to teach my friends and neighbors how to make the face masks as well. Afterwards, I progressed to sewing clothes and curtains.”  

Gehad also realized how important it was for her son to learn English. She felt she couldn’t help him, so she decided to enroll in the English courses offered by JRS Jordan .  

“After completing the English course, I was able to share what I learned and teach my son English,” she says.   

“I also participated in the career coaching program. I learned how to create a CV and power point presentations. We got the opportunity to design a slideshow and it was fun to work as a group with my classmates. I also learned important information on jobs, job opportunities, and the labour market,” Gehad says.

During the course, she also gained an understanding about anxiety, depression, and other psychological concerns. Her son was able to join the community centre at JRS Jordan and improve his educational performance. Such progress and achievements encouraged her husband to study at JRS as well.  

The Saltah is ready. We sit on the floor, gathered around the delicious dishes.   

The last taste of Yemen that Gehad offers us is tea. It is sweet, spicy and warm, just how we feel after this day of sharing.  

She tells us that “in the light of difficult circumstances, our participation in JRS marked a notable turning point in our lives. Refugees travel to Jordan to seek asylum and to find better living opportunities.  

In our case, JRS provided us with the support and help we needed and ultimately changed our lives.”  

Explore more

jack's journey to yemen

JRS Mozambique to Open Doors of First Early Childhood Education Center

February 9, 2024.

jack's journey to yemen

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Privacy overview.

Welcome to The Yemen Journey!

We are a Yemen-based company dedicated to connecting Yemen to the world. We source unique handmade products from farmers and artisans from all corners of Yemen, and export these to retailers internationally, thereby offering the world a taste and a handful of Yemen’s flavors and beauty, meanwhile bringing income and hope to farmers and artisans in one of the world’s most isolated countries. Take a tour on our site and explore a wide range of unique handcrafts such as alabaster lamps, lanterns, baskets, silver jewelry and more, as well as our green coffee beans – all single sourced micro lots directly from selected farms in Sa’ada and Haraz. In our journal and videos you can learn more about specific products, the art of the craft as well as join us on our journey to bring Yemen to the world. Are you a concept store owner, specialty coffee roaster or other retailer interested in our products? We would love to hear from you, so please get in touch!

Journals & Videos

Join us on the journey.

Yemen is known for political turmoil, armed conflict and a large humanitarian crisis. But beneath the headlines lie an ancient country and culture, incredibly rich in traditions, hospitality and resilience. From the mountainous highlands, where Yemen’s traditional gingerbread houses rise to the sky overlooking valleys of coffee and fruit terraces, to the coastal plains where fishermen stem out in their small fishing dhows, bringing back large tunas, shrimps and crabs from the rich blue waters that surround it, Yemen is a country largely living, producing and breathing as it has for centuries.

The handcraft of Yemeni lanterns | Video 01

Yemen Journey artisan Khaled Yahya invites you on a journey from design to the final making of the famous Yemeni brass and fabric lantern. The production of the widely celebrated and loved Yemeni lantern came to a half as Yemen experienced isolation and conflict, leaving the producers without customers - meanwhile bringing the price of the raw materials up. The Yemen Journey design team has revived the production of the lanterns with artisans from the Sana'a Old City, and collaborated with silversmiths in introducing new invigorating designs as well as the integration with solar lamps. Join us on a trip through the Old City and see how the beautiful lanterns are created

Interested in our products? We would love to hear from you!

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Or contact us directly on.

The Adventures of Nicole

Everything You Need To Know About Yemen Travel

Updated October 2023 ,  Everything You Need To Know About Yemen Travel was originally written in December 2019

I’m just going to preface this with Yemen isn’t a safe destination to visit. This guide isn’t intended for travelers that want to waltz on in on their own and don’t understand the risks involved, its purpose is more to inform. Yemen is a truly beautiful country, however, travel in Yemen is no small task, and those in the country are struggling.

Wadi Doan, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen,Wadi Daw'an, madhalla, woman in madhalla, Yemeni witch hat

Need Travel Insurance and Evacuation Services for Yemen?

Start shopping for travel insurance plans over at  IATI Insurance . Readers of the Adventures of Nicole get a 5% discount off your plan.

The Adventures of Nicole partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading medical evacuation and security advisory services. To travel with peace of mind, shop evacuation coverage at Global Rescue .

Southern Yemen

What you need to know about the war in yemen.

Yemen’s forgotten war is confusing, to say the least, for most outsiders trying to wrap their minds around it. It’s not simply a ‘good guys’ versus ‘bad guys’, that foreign media likes to portray. We’re talking multiple belligerents, several other countries, known terrorist factions, and regional warlords vying for power.

Yemen’s situation, if you were to label it is, fractured. But Yemen has been fractured long before the start of the war in 2015, this goes back decades.

Yemen has seen civil war several times in its history. Parts of the country were colonized by the British in the past. From 1967-1990 the country was divided into North Yemen (Yemen Arab Republic) and South Yemen (People’s Democratic Republic of Yemen).

Even after the reunification of the two Yemens, the country saw yet another civil war in the 90s, as well as turbulent ups and downs until the beginning of the present war.

The battle is often called a proxy war owing to the two main belligerents being the coalition, which is backed by the Saudis and the UAE and funded by the USA; and the Houthi, predominantly comprised of members of the Zaidi sect, hailing from northern Yemen’s Sa’da, and speculated to be backed by Iran.

Of course, the Islamic State and al Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula have joined the chaos, in addition to other terrorist organizations. And this is an extremely simplified and condensed rundown of the details. The reality is that the situation is far more complicated and convoluted than I am writing here.

Dar al Hajar, Wadi Dhar, Sana'a, Yemen

Destinations To Visit In Yemen

Surfeet, Surfeet Yemen, Yemen coast, Yemeni coast, al Mahrah coast, al Mahrah, Mahrah. Yemen

Al Mahrah  is Yemen’s easternmost governorate. Much of the drive across from the Omani border passing by the Surfeet protected area is characterized by a rugged coastline backed by stark, craggy mountains.

The largest town within al Mahrah is al Ghaydeh, which is reached after roughly two hours of driving from the border. Destinations possible to visit in the al Mahrah Governorate are Surfeet, Hawf, al Ghaydeh, and the  Yemeni Empty Quarter .

Yemen, al Ghaydeh, al Ghaydeh souq, Arabia, Middle East, Al Mahrah, Mahrah

Al Ghaydeh is a coastal town, a scenic drive away from the Surfeet border crossing with  Oman . Al Ghaydeh’s main industry of course, is fishing. Al Ghaydeh is a good place to spend your first night if coming from Oman, and to grab any necessary items at the souk from.

Rub al Khali, Yemeni Rub al Khali, Yemen, Yemeni Empty Quarter, Empty Quarter, Arabia, Middle East, Al Mahrah, Mahrah, Milky Way Empty Quarter, stargazing Empty Quarter, Empty Quarter stargazing

Rub al Khali

Yemen’s Rub al Khali, or better known as the Empty Quarter is a deserted region, dotted seldomly by villages and an endless sea of dunes. The Rub al Khali is dived amongst Yemen,  Oman , Saudi Arabia, and the UAE. This unforgiving area sees some of Earth’s highest temperatures and most harsh living conditions.

The Empty Quarter is known for its general lawlessness.

See what it was like to spend the night in the  Yemeni Empty Quarter

Shibam, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen

Wadi Hadhramaut

Where mud-brick villages rise up from the depths of a lush and green canyon that slashes the arid earth that bounds its either side. Wadi Hadhramaut is something of legend– where giants once roamed the earth called Adites, that enjoyed life a little too much. So much so that God sent down a plague of massive ants who ate the Adites alive, ripping them apart limb by limb while violent winds whipped their flesh with sand.

Wadi Hadhramaut is most famous for producing liquid gold– the world’s finest honey, and of course Arabia’s Manhattan in Shibam. 

Wadi Daw’an , a canyon wonderland within the Hadhramaut is probably the most magical and mysterious location within the Yemeni desert, dotted with mud-brick villages that seemingly rise from the depth of earth, some of the most notable being Al Hajarayn,  Haid al Jazil , Sif,  Qarn Majid , and Al Khurayba.  Shibam  is a 2,500-year-old city, known for its 7-8 story mud-brick skyscrapers, the first of their kind. Tarim,

Al Mukalla, Shibam, and Seiyun are other destinations within the region.

Learn more about Wadi Hadhramaut  here

Seiyun is a regional capital of the Hadhramaut and has been so since the 15th century. Al Habshi Tomb, the Sultan’s Palace, and Al Haddad Mosque are just some of the reasons travelers come to Seiyun.

Shibam, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen

Shibam  is a city with over 2,500 years of history, located in the Wadi Hadhramaut and most well known as the ‘Manhattan of Arabia. Other sites in the city include the Sultan’s Palace, Sheik ar Rashid Mosque, the souq, and the Minbar Museum.

Read more about historic  Shibam

al Muhdhar Mosque, al Muhdhar, Tarim Mosque, Tarim, Tarim Yemen, Tarim Souk, Tarim souq, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen

Tarim is a Sufi center in Yemen and served as the Hadhramaut’s capital before Saiyun rose to the occasion. The ramshackle Tarim Souq and the beautiful al Muhdhar Mosque are more than worthy of a visit.

Check out why the  ancient Sufi center of Tarim  is a must-visit on any Yemen itinerary

Haid al Jazil, Wadi Doan, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen

Wadi Daw’an

Wadi Daw’an is arguably the most impressive area in all of Yemen. Think villages perched impossibly on cliffsides, date groves, beautiful Hadhrami style palaces and homes, and even the village that Mohammed bin Laden hails from.

Check out more on Wadi Daw’an  here

Ma’rib Governorate

Note that as of November 2021 Ma’rib Governorate has seen some fighting and isn’t recommended to visit right now.

Home to the Sabean Kingdom, who ruled the land for over 1,500 years and the alleged home (but not according to the Ethiopians) Bilqis, or known in the west as ‘the Queen of Sheba’. Built on taxes from the passing by incense trade Ma’rib was once an important seat of power in the Middle East, and is one of the oldest cities on Earth.

Nowadays it looks more like a dusty town, but there are a handful of sights to behold. The Ma’rib Dam is probably the most well known, though much of the dam built in the 8th century BC has been dismantled over the years to build the new town.

Old Ma’rib is a sight to see, rising from the landscape surrounding it, with a history stretching back to around 1,500 years before the birth of the Prophet Mohammed. Sadly the last family has left the old city and Old Ma’rib now sits uninhabited.

Mahram Bilqis is a must-see Sabean temple in Ma’rib with 12 meter high columns dedicated to the god of the sun.

The Arsh of Bilqis is another sight to behold in Ma’rib, oft believed to be associated with the legend of the Queen of Sheba, the temple is estimated to predate Bilqis, being nearly 4,000 years old. Archaeologists believe the temple is dedicated to the moon.

middle east travel guide, Wadi Dirhur, Firmin Forest, Dixam Plateau, Dixam dragons, Socotra, Socotra Island, Yemen, Socotra Archipelago, Dragon Blood Tree, Dracaena Cinnabari, Yemen travel

Offshore and out of this world, little Socotra sits smack in the Arabian Sea between Yemen and Somalia. Largely regarded as the only safe place to visit in Yemen due to the fact that the Yemeni Civil War has never reached Socotra’s shores.

Socotra is home to some of the highest numbers of endemics in the world, putting it in the ranks of the  Galapagos Islands  and New Caledonia– the most famous of its endemics being the Dragon Blood Tree or Dracaena cinnabari.

After being nearly cut off entirely from the outside world for several years, Socotra is slowly again opening to tourism, though infrastructure on the island is very limited, making it more common among the more extreme and intrepid group of travelers. I’ve visited Socotra a couple of times now, and you can read more about traveling to Socotra  here .

Everything you need to know:  The Socotra Travel Guide

The following destinations are dangerous to access due to fighting and not possible for travelers to even get to owing to the blockade, but I have included them as they are places that were accessible a few years back

Old Sana'a, Sana'a, Yemen

Northern Yemen

Founded by Shem, the son of Noah, Sana’a is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.

Of the few travelers that make it to Yemen these days, most don’t get to see the grandeur of Sana’a due to the danger associated with reaching the city.

Old Sana’a is the most beautiful city I’ve ever seen and with a history that dates back over 2,500 years, and one of the most fascinating places you’ll ever visit. A favorite memory of mine in all my travels was waking up to the song of the Call to Prayer penetrating the air and the golden light shining through the Qamariya windows of my 6th story room, making colorful geometric patterns on the carpet.

Unfortunately, the city including Old Sana’a has suffered some damages from fighting and near-daily airstrikes.

The Bab al Yemen, or gates to the city is best viewed in the late afternoon to get a taste of the frenetic energy of Old Sana’a, with the bustling Souq al Milh, selling nearly everything under the sun nearby. Sana’a is home to countless mosques, but two of the most famed within the Old City are Great Mosque and Qubbat al Bakiriyah Mosque.

Outside the walls of Old Sana’a is the impressive, though controversial al Saleh Mosque. Sana’a is currently under control of the Houthi.

Read more about my time in Sana’a and more in-depth details about the city  here .

What it was like to visit  Sana’a, Yemen

Dar al-Hajar, Dar al Hajar, Wadi Dhahr, Sana'a, Sanaa, Yemen, rock palace, Sana'a Yemen, Sanaa Yemen

Wadi Dhahr & Dar al Hajar

Wadi Dhahr and Dar al Hajar are the most popular day trip to take from Sana’a. As you climb out of the city the road skirts the edge of the massive canyon where you’ll have sweeping views of the green oases below.

The most prominent feature of Wadi Dhahr is the summer ‘Rock Palace’ of Dar al Hajar. Constructed in 1920 by Imam Yahya as a summer palace the multi-story sandcastle is built atop a protruding rock and even carved down into it.

Built atop Jebel Kawkaban, this citadel sits perched above the village of Shibam (no, not the one famous for its mud-brick skyscrapers), at an elevation of 2,800 meters. Most who visited Kawakaban and Shibam in the past came for trekking.

Al Tawila sits northwest of Sana’a, past Kawakaban and Shiam. The main attraction here is the beautifully terraced fields that tumble down the mountainside from the village.

Al Mawit is just a little further west of Al Tawila and is a large mountain town and is the epicenter of Yemen’s fertile valleys. Al Mahwit is known for its coffee, qat, and tobacco crops.

Al Hajarah is a gorgeous mountain village sitting on a mountain edge, built in the 11th century. Al Hajarah is located about 5 km west of Manakhah which was once known as the Yemeni center of trekking.

is one of the most beautiful villages in all of Yemen, teetering impossibly on a mountain top near the terminus of the Haraz Mountains before they drop off seemingly into the Red Sea.

Ibb makes for a good stopover between Sana’a and Ta’izz. Ibb and its surrounding province receive the most rainfall in all of Yemen, making it one of the greenest regions of the country. The main attraction in Ibb is the market set at the foothills of the Ba’aden Mountains.

Many in Ta’izz have now fled the city due to intense fighting. The Bab al Kabi, serving as the main entrance to Old Ta’izz, as well as the Bab al Musa, are interesting sites, though it’s worth noting that not all of the original wall remains.

Legends point to Aden being the site of the construction of Noah’s Ark. Aden is another one of the world’s oldest cities, estimated at least to the 10th century BC, serving as an ancient trading center. Sites to see in Aden include the National Museum of Antiquities, Sirah Fortress, and the Fish Market.

Al Khuraiba, Al Khuraiba Yemen, Wadi Daw'an, Wadi Doan, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen

How To Get To Yemen

Getting to Yemen is a feat all in itself these days. On my first visit, it was as simple as contacting and arranging a trip with a local operator, securing a visa through them, and booking a flight to Sana’a. Now, not so much.

You will still need to contact and arrange your travel to Yemen through an operator, have them secure the visa for you and once in, know that you’re very limited in where you can visit on the ground (except for in Socotra).

As of right now, the only access points into Yemen are via the once per week flight from Cairo to Hadiboh (making a short stop in Seiyun, though they will not allow you to leave the airport as a foreigner) and the Omani border post at Sarfeet/Hawf (intermittently open due to the pandemic).

If you want to visit the island of Socotra, read this post  here  to learn how to get there.

Socotra, Socotra Island, Yemen, Detwah Lagoon, Detwah

Obtaining a Yemeni Visa

This will need to be taken care of through a local operator as consulates and embassies will not issue visas to tourists wanting to travel to Yemen. If you want to read up on the process of getting a Yemeni visa,  click here .

Jameh Mosque, Grand Mosque of Shibam, Sheikh ar Rashid Mosque, Sheikh ar Rashid Mosque Shibam, Jameh al Kabir Shibam, Shibam, Wadi Hadhramaut, Hadhramaut, Yemen

Safety In Yemen

All foreign governments emphatically warn against all travel to Yemen, which is justified. The country is still actively at war in many areas.

For those that still want to visit despite this, there are ways to do it and mitigate risk by the use of expert fixers and on-the-ground experts.

Bombings, kidnappings, bombings, and airstrikes are pretty common occurrences in the country, in addition to active terrorist groups such as al Qaeda and IS.

Read up on the US and UK advisories for travel in Yemen  here  and  here .

Have Any Questions About Yemen Travel?

Ask your Yemen travel questions in the comments section below.

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6 thoughts on “yemen travel: everything you need to know”.

Yemen did not colonized by british you are wrong. Only aden colonized by british, not even fully but some portions. Other portions were ruled by arabic administrative government and local emirate /state. Ottomans and their egyptian allies tried to invaded it but failed. Historically there many regional emirates/states.

Yemen did not colonized by british you are wrong. Only aden colonized by british, not even fully but some portions, other portions were ruled by arabic administrative government and local emirate/state. Ottomans and their egyptian allies tried to invaded it but failed, its had many regional emirates/states that allied with Ottomans most time.

hi. did you travel with a yemeni tour agency or by yourself?

As mentioned in the section about getting to Yemen and getting the visa, you have to arrange it via a Yemeni operator.

Thanks…but if I go to Socotra with tour operator and I get the visa for 30 days and I still want to travel around the main part of Yemen, can I enter second time with the same visa?

You can arrange to visit both Yemen and Socotra with a local operator. Most tend to have you visit mainland first and then fly to Socotra

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Mainland Yemen Tour (from Salalah,Oman)

Mainland Yemen Tour (from Salalah,Oman)

Socotra Island Adventures (Yemen)

Socotra Island Adventures (Yemen)

Yemen, a captivating land nestled in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula, is a country steeped in rich history, stunning landscapes, and warm hospitality. Despite its turbulent past, Yemen has begun to emerge as a hidden gem for intrepid travelers seeking an authentic and off-the-beaten-path experience. In this article, we embark on a virtual journey to Yemen, exploring its ancient cities, architectural wonders, and breathtaking natural beauty. From the bustling streets of Sana'a to the mesmerizing landscapes of Socotra, Yemen offers a unique travel experience that will leave you in awe.

The Enchanting Capital: Sana'a

Our journey begins in the vibrant capital city of Sana'a, a UNESCO World Heritage site. As you wander through the labyrinthine streets of the Old City, you'll be transported back in time, surrounded by towering mud-brick buildings adorned with intricate geometric patterns. The air is filled with the aroma of spices and the echoes of the call to prayer. Immerse yourself in the bustling markets, where vendors sell vibrant fabrics, exotic spices, and traditional crafts. Don't miss the chance to visit the impressive Great Mosque of Sana'a and the Dar al-Hajar palace, perched atop a rock formation offering panoramic views of the city.

Ancient Marvels: Shibam and Marib

No visit to Yemen would be complete without exploring its ancient marvels. Head south to Shibam, often called the "Manhattan of the Desert" due to its towering mud-brick skyscrapers. Marvel at the remarkable architecture and appreciate the skill and craftsmanship that went into building this UNESCO-listed city. Continue your journey to Marib, the legendary capital of the ancient kingdom of Sheba. Explore the ruins of the Marib Dam, an engineering feat built over 2,500 years ago, and visit the Queen of Sheba's Palace, steeped in mythical tales.

Coastal Delights: Aden and Socotra

Yemen's coastline is adorned with stunning beaches and historic port cities. Aden, with its deep natural harbor, offers a glimpse into Yemen's maritime heritage. Explore the crumbling colonial architecture of the Crater district, visit the National Museum of Aden, and take a stroll along the picturesque Corniche. For an extraordinary adventure, venture further to Socotra, a UNESCO World Heritage site and an ecological wonderland. Known as the "Galapagos of the Indian Ocean," Socotra boasts unique flora and fauna found nowhere else on Earth. Explore its otherworldly landscapes, hike through the Dragon's Blood trees, and dive into the crystal-clear waters to discover vibrant coral reefs.

Warm Yemeni Hospitality

Throughout your journey in Yemen, you'll experience the warmth and generosity of the Yemeni people. Yemenis are known for their hospitality, and you'll be welcomed with open arms wherever you go. Engage in conversations with locals, savor traditional Yemeni cuisine, and partake in the qat chewing ritual - an integral part of Yemeni culture. By embracing the local customs and traditions, you'll gain a deeper understanding of the country's rich heritage and create lasting memories.

A visit to Yemen is an opportunity to uncover the treasures of ancient Arabia and immerse yourself in a land that time seems to have forgotten. From the awe-inspiring architecture of Sana'a to the mystical allure of Socotra, Yemen offers a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. While the country has faced challenges, it has preserved its remarkable heritage, and travelers brave enough to venture here are rewarded with a truly authentic experience. Embark on this extraordinary journey to Yemen, and let the land of frankincense and myrrh weave its spell upon you.

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jack's journey to yemen

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Journey from Africa to Yemen Remains World’s Busiest Maritime Migration Route

A young Somali woman recently arrived in Yemen. Somalis made up roughly eight per cent of the 138,000 migrants who arrived in Yemen last year; 92 per cent were Ethiopian

Nairobi – On average, 11,500 people boarded vessels each month from the Horn of Africa to Yemen in 2019, making it the busiest maritime migration route on earth.

Data collected by the International Organization for Migration’s (IOM) Displacement Tracking Matrix (DTM) shows that over 138,000 people crossed the Gulf of Aden to Yemen last year. More than 110,000 migrants and refugees crossed the Mediterranean to Europe during the same period.

This is the second year in a row that the so-called Eastern Route has reported more crossings than the Mediterranean. In 2018, roughly 150,000 people made the journey.

Nearly 90 per cent of those who arrived in Yemen in 2019 intended to continue on to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA). Often coming from the rural regions of Oromia, Amhara and Tigray, approximately 92 per cent of people making the journey were Ethiopian nationals.

“While tragedies along the Mediterranean routes are well reported, our staff bear witness daily to the abuse suffered by young people from the Horn of Africa at the hands of smugglers and traffickers exploiting their hopes for a better life,” said Mohammed Abdiker, IOM Regional Director for the East and Horn of Africa.

Not only has migration on the Eastern Route not been reduced by five years of conflict in Yemen, migrants appear undeterred by the Gulf’s strict immigration policies for undocumented migrants.

“To get to Yemen, they crammed about 280 of us into one boat,” a thirty-two-year-old Ethiopian man told IOM in Aden, Yemen. “There was no oxygen, and some people committed suicide by throwing themselves into the sea.”

Most are unaware of the security situation in Yemen where they face serious protection concerns, including active fighting or abuses such as kidnapping, torture for ransom, exploitation and trafficking.

“When we arrived in Yemen, smugglers held us for a month,” said one eighteen-year-old Ethiopian migrant. “We were beaten, tortured, abused and threatened for ransom. My family sent USD 900 to save my life so I was released with some other people who had paid.”

IOM works across the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Gulf, providing life-saving emergency support to migrants in need and supporting development in home communities.

“However, the most effective protection mechanism for migrants remains the establishment of legal pathways for migration. IOM is committed to supporting all authorities along the Eastern route to better manage migration, ensuring the safety and dignity of migrants.”

A 2019 agreement between KSA and the Government of Ethiopia on a recruitment system for domestic workers, followed by a first request for 100,000 Ethiopian workers to travel to KSA, is an encouraging step towards harnessing the economic and development potential of migration from the Horn of Africa, while protecting migrants.

Those making the perilous journey to the Gulf cross deserts with little food or water and territories controlled by armed groups. Most are travelling in search of economic opportunities unattainable at home, while others are fleeing insecurity, human rights abuses and adverse living conditions.

Smugglers and traffickers operate boats from Obock in Djibouti and Bosasso in Somalia. Last year, thirty-eight per cent of migrants arrived from Djibouti, while the majority (62 per cent) arrived at Yemen’s southern coast from Somalia. For most migrants, the journey from their home to KSA can take a few months. However, it can be longer depending on whether the person stops to work or is detained along the way.

IOM’s efforts in the Horn of Africa and Yemen address three migration-related Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). SDG 8, Decent Work and Economic Growth; SDG 10.7: Facilitating orderly, safe and regular migration and mobility; and SDG 17.18, Increasing significantly the availability of high-quality, timely and reliable migration data.

For more data on migration movements between the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Gulf, please visit: https://ronairobi.iom.int/regional-data-hub-rdh and https://dtm.iom.in ...

For more information, please contact:

IOM’s Regional Office in Nairobi: Yvonne Ndege, Tel: +254 797735977, Email: [email protected]

IOM Yemen: Olivia Headon, Tel: +967730552233, Email: [email protected]

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