france canal cruises

How to travel France by canal (without going overboard)

Aug 8, 2022 • 8 min read

Tourists glide by boat through the canal and admire the architecture of the half-timbered houses © Franz Aberham / Getty Images

Transport and tranquility are usually mutually exclusive, but not if you book a houseboat and cruise along France 's canals and navigable rivers. You can stop at your whim to pick up fresh produce from a local market, dine at a village restaurant or glide by a local château by bicycle. 

There are thousands of kilometers of rivers and canals that link together in a vast web touching much of the country and allowing access to the surrounding seas. Changes in altitude are taken care of by a system of écluses (locks) and boats range from self-hire houseboats to luxury hotel barges.

There are hundreds of equally wonderful canal and river routes, dotted with small houses where the lock keepers used to live (and some still do). Below is just a sample of what lies ahead. Additional world-class routes include the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, a link between Paris and Alsace and Germany via the Rhine, and the 360km-long Canal de Nantes à Brest in Brittany .

Canal du Midi

Stretching for 241km between Toulouse and Sète , the Canal du Midi is one of the great waterways of southern France. Completed in 1681 at the behest of Louis XIV and classified as a World Heritage site since 1996, the canal was designed to provide a trading route between major French ports. Combined with the Canal de Garonne, it forms part of the Canal des Deux Mers (Canal of the Two Seas), which enables boats to travel all the way from the Atlantic (near Bordeaux) to the Mediterranean.

It’s a work of art as much as engineering, lined with stately plane trees, puttering houseboats and gorgeous riverside towns. You can stroll or pedal along the towpaths as you stop along the canal’s route, or visit its cities – Toulouse, Agde, Minerve, Béziers , Narbonne, Carcassonne and Sète.

It’s also worth stopping at the Musée Canal du Midi in St-Ferréol, which explores the history of the waterway and the life of its chief engineer, Paul Riquet.

Canal de Garonne 

With 53 locks, this serene canal falls from the junction with the Canal du Midi at Toulouse to Castets-en-Dorthe at the Garonne river. The Garonne then lets out to the Bay of Biscay just beyond wonderful Bordeaux , a jolly stop for its gorgeous architecture and wine aplenty . Or, take a day trip from the boat to Sauternes for its sweet and white wines, or Roquefort, for its world-famous cheese . Another fascinating stop along the way is Moissac, a large riverside town, partly on an “island” formed between the Tarn and the Garonne Canal. Its crowning glory is the Unesco-listed Abbaye St-Pierre , a monumental abbey church. 

Canal de Bourgogne

Canal boating between Bourgogne vineyards really can’t be beat. Burgundy's 1200km of placid waterways include the Rivers Yonne, Saône and Seille and a network of canals, including the Canal de Bourgogne, the Canal du Centre, the Canal Latéral à la Loire and the Canal du Nivernais, which are detailed below. 

The spectacular 242km Canal de Bourgogne connects the river Saône in the south at Saint-Jean-de-Losne, with the river Yonne at Laroche-Migennes – which in turn connects to the Seine if you want to continue on to Paris. Highlights Include , of course, touring the regions’ magnificent vineyards and sampling the wines, as well as visiting cities like Dijon and Beaune . West of Dijon, along and around the Canal de Bourgogne, the Pays d'Auxois is a rolling land of mustard fields, wooded hills and escarpments dotted with fortified hilltop towns, including Semur-en-Auxois. Tucked into this verdant landscape are a pair of exceptional historical sites, the Cistercian abbey of Fontenay and the MuséoParc Alésia historical museum.

Canal du Nivernais

Originally constructed for moving firewood from the Morvan’s forests to Paris, the peaceful Canal du Nivernais  crosses the Yonne river valley , sometimes merging with the river itself and connecting the Loire with the Seine. A top spot along the way, the ancient city of Auxerre dates back to Gallo-Roman times and now curves beautifully along the Yonne, with the magnificent Gothic Cathédrale Saint-Étienne d'Auxerre towering overhead.

You can also tour the vineyards – or simply stock the wines of the region – with Chablis being its reigning queen.

Loire Valley canals

A batch of bitty canals interlink between Burgundy and the châteaux-laden Loire Valley . They include the Canal du Centre, Canal latéral à la Loire, and the Canal de Briare.

Midway between Dijon and Lyon , Burgundy's southernmost département , Saône-et-Loire, is an inviting land of rolling green fields criss-crossed by hedgerows and dotted with indigenous Charolais beef cattle. The Canal du Centre and some fabulous bike paths meander through Saône-et-Loire's forests and pastureland.

During the region's medieval heyday it was home to the largest church in all of Christendom, the magnificent abbey of Cluny . These days it's a sleepier place, but pretty châteaux and little-known Romanesque chapels still sit around almost every bend, hinting at Saône-et-Loire's long history and making this a delightful area for day trips.

Other regional highlights include wines galore: from the wine-growing villages around Mâcon to Sancerre, which produce some of France's finest whites – taste tests abound.

Shorter hops and day trips on France's canals

If you’re not able to do a full canal cruise, you can also hop aboard a small day trip boat or punt the day away from French cities laced with canals, like Colmar . For example, boat cruises run along the Garonne in Toulouse from the Quai de la Daurade; in summer, some boats also travel onto the Canal du Midi. The two main companies are Les Bateaux Toulousains and Toulouses Croisières .

In the Dordogne Valley  you can go river boating from La Roque Gageac aboard a flat-bottomed gabarre with Gabarres Norbert .

Cycling the canals

Most boats have bikes on board or can arrange cycling day trips. With a vast network of cycling paths, the French canal towpaths are pure two-wheeling joy. Voies vertes (green ways) stretch for thousands of kilometres along old canal towpaths and are also open to walkers and horse riders, and many sections are paved to ensure a silky-smooth ride. Many connect to véloroutes – designated cycling paths .

You can cycle on or very near the chemin de halage (towpath) of the Canal de Bourgogne all the way from Dijon to Migennes (225km). The section from Montbard to Tonnerre (65km) passes by Château d'Ancy-le-Franc ; between Montbard and Pouilly-en-Auxois (58km), spurs go to the Abbaye de Fontenay and Semur-en-Auxois.

Similarly, peaceful towpaths along the Canal du Midi (check out Canal des 2 Mers à Vélo ) link the Atlantic with the Mediterranean via the canals.

Tips for canal travel in France

How to book a french canal trip.

Usually, companies, like Barge Lady Cruises , are brokers that then connect you to the outfit owning the boat or boats. Things to consider are:

• the size of the boat;
• whether there will be a skipper on board, and what other staff, like a cook or steward;
• how many staterooms will there be (and thus people you may share with);
• what do they offer in the way of day trips and how customizable are they?

...or book a luxury barge cruise instead 

Levels can become quite luxe, with your own private chef and bespoke food, drink and day trips. Smaller luxury boats can have as few as two staterooms, with a maximum of four guests, which are perfect for friends or family who want a private boat. A top purveyor in the field is Belmond , with its smaller boat, Allouette on the Canal du Midi, or larger ones like Fleur de Lys in Burgundy. 

How to rent a canal boat

If you’re up for piloting yourself, you can hire a boat. They generally accommodate from two to 12 passengers and are fully outfitted with bedding and cooking facilities. Anyone over 18 can pilot a riverboat, but first-time skippers are given a short instruction session so they qualify for a carte de plaisance (temporary cruising permit). The speed limit is 6km/h on canals and 8km/h on rivers. It’s important to read up on the route you will be taking to learn how to handle the locks and other tricks of the waterway. Except in July and August, you can often rent over a weekend.

You can also traverse the waterways by sailboat, but you must unstep (take down) the mast to do so.

Rental agencies abound. They include the following:

France Afloat – Anglophone canal-boat specialist in France, based in Vermenton, 25km southeast of Auxerre. This British-owned, family-run enterprise rents boats and provides advice for trips on France's inland waterways, including the Yonne River, the Canal de Bourgogne and the Canal du Nivernais.

Locaboat Holidays – based in Joigny, 27km northwest of Auxerre – has been renting boats throughout France since 1977. Burgundian destinations for their self-guided explorations include the Canal de Bourgogne, Canal du Centre, Canal du Nivernais and the Yonne and Seine Rivers.

Where to find a map of France's canals

Waterway books with detailed maps are a must. Excellent guides include Breil and Imray , or check out the website French Waterways for loads of info and maps on the country’s canals and waterways.

Rental companies offer boats from late March to mid-November (canals close for repairs in winter). Advance reservations are essential for holiday periods, over long weekends and in July and August, especially for larger boats. The best bet is to go during the shoulder seasons (May and June or September), when the weather is fine but wait times are shorter at the locks, and crowds fewer.

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European Barge Cruises

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Embark one of our 6 luxury barges for a cruise on France’s Canals in 2024 . These canal cruisers are the most modern in Europe, and designed for intimate, relaxing cruising. Relax on the terrace, with it’s jacuzzi and deckchairs, while you comfortably admire the most beautiful landscapes of France . 

Paris and the Canal Saint-Martin, the canals of Burgundy, the canals of Alsace, Provence and Camargue... embark for cruises that will immerse you in the cultural, culinary and scenic destinations. During stopovers, take advantage of the bicycles available on board - cycling along the towpaths or into town, or set off to discover the many hiking trails. On board, enjoy a traditional and refined cuisine , prepared by our chefs under the direction of Alain Bohn, a member of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France. 

To make you enjoy a comfortable and all-inclusive cruise, the cabins of our barges are equipped with all the necessary amenities to guarantee you an exceptional stay, in the trend of " slow tourism ".

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Imagine spending a week cruising the idyllic waterways of France on board a luxury barge. You’ll trade a week of the hustle of everyday life for the leisurely and gentle pace that barging provides. Cruising on these historic waterways allows for a deep exploration of the picturesque landscapes, historical gems, vineyards and more. You’ll be immersing yourself in French culture and history while savoring gourmet meals paired with exquisite wines and mouthwatering cheeses from each region.

We want you to be swept away by the tranquility of nature, become enthralled in the living history of the regions and indulge in the delicacies of the cuisine and wines of France. Our mission is to provide you with a week that you will cherish for a lifetime.

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We’ve selected some of the most unique and beautiful waterways in France to share exclusively with our guests.

Come with us to discover the beauty of France and cruising the French waterways  from our unique view of the world.

Every meal is thoughtfully paired with exquisite regional wines chosen exclusively by your captain.

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Thank you for the wonderful week! We will long remember the food, the wine, the cruising, the tours, the walks, the lounging on the deck, the conversation and just plain fun!

A week of fabulous food, wonderful wines, terrific trips, comfy cabins, cheery company and most of all the super duper staff.

You made this a truly memorable week – great food, fabulous wine and such attention to detail.

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Slip away to the French countryside... a land of tranquil beauty shaped by legend and tradition, and mellowed by the patina of time.

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For over 30 years, American owned and operated, French Country Waterways has been cruising the canals and rivers of France. Truly unique voyages of discovery, our luxury hotel barge cruises provide one of the most relaxing and refreshing vacation experiences.

Enjoy six all-inclusive nights in total luxury. Dine on world-class, gourmet cuisine and savor our exclusive wines - many from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Visit historic châteaux, medieval villages, and world-famous vineyards. Or, relax on deck with a fine wine in hand while the beautiful French countryside slowly unfolds before you. Whichever you choose, cruising on a French Country Waterways luxury barge allows you to gain a rare, insider's perspective of provincial France.

Canals of France

Barge cruises in France on the canals

Intimate with all home comforts, cruises on the french canals aboard some of the most modern barges in europe., oise valley cruise, full details on our itinerary on the oise valley.

The Oise Valley on a Cruise

CRUISES IN PROVENCE

Full details on our itineraries on the provence canal..

From Arles to Sète

Itinerary also available in reverse.

CRUISES IN THE MARNE

Full details on our itineraries on the canal of the marne..

From Paris to Epernay

CRUISES IN ALSACE

Full details on our itineraries on the marne-rhine canal..

From Strasbourg to Lagarde

CRUISES IN THE VALLEY OF DOUBS

Full details on our itineraries in the valley of doubs..

From Montbéliard to Besançon

CRUISES IN BURGUNDY

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From Besançon to Dijon

CRUISES ON THE SAINT-MARTIN CANAL

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Cruise in the heart of Paris

Canal barge cruises in France

Embark one of our 6 luxury barges for a cruise on France’s Canals in 2024.  These canal cruisers are the most modern in Europe, and designed for intimate, relaxing cruising. Relax on the terrace, with it’s jacuzzi and deckchairs, while you comfortably admire the most beautiful landscapes of France . 

Paris and the Canal Saint-Martin, the canals of Burgundy, the canals of Alsace, Provence and Camargue... embark for cruises that will immerse you in the cultural, culinary and scenic destinations. During stopovers, take advantage of the bicycles available on board - cycling along the towpaths or into town, or set off to discover the many hiking trails. On board, enjoy a traditional and refined cuisine , prepared by our chefs under the direction of Alain Bohn, a member of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France. 

To make you enjoy a comfortable and all-inclusive cruise, the cabins of our barges are equipped with all the necessary amenities to guarantee you an exceptional stay, in the trend of " slow tourism ".

Inquire about private cruising - each barge holds a maximum of 22 passengers , perfect for friends and families.

Discover the cruises, their program, the excursions they offer, and book your trip online!

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Grand Victoria

Join us aboard for a luxury canal and river cruise through picturesque France.

Luxury French Barge Cruise With a Difference

Cruise through the beautiful French countryside. A luxury barge cruise in France is a perfect vacation. The Grand Victoria feels like your own private yacht.

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Luxury Cruise in France

Whether you want an active adventure out in the picturesque French countryside, a relaxed cruise down the scenic waterways, or something in between, we’re ready to help you make the lasting memories of a lifetime on a luxury French barge cruise in France. This is the stuff of travel tales. We personalize every detail so your luxury cruise in France cruising down the canals and rivers a meditative calm descends. And the great thing is you’ll find it all when you hit the waterways of France. Any luxury French barge cruise on the canals of France has a certain allure but when heading out on the canals there's an additional dose of anticipation. Fill your days with endless options: Walk on canal paths. Borrow a bike. Make yourself at home. Explore boutique shops and bustling local markets, lunch at a local bistro while pampered by the owners themselves, tour the legendary Burgundian vineyards, and wineries dotting the countryside, and walk the ramparts of historic château in private tours, all possible to do during one of our French canal cruises. The Grand Victoria itineraries are designed to provide a cultural adventure, which our guide can adapt to meet individual interests because the most exciting places can fall flat without spontaneity. It is exceptional moments that make long-lasting memories.

An Inclusive Experience

We want the Grand Victoria to become your second home. We tailor our services to your personal wishes, and we attend to the details in the background, so the entire luxury yacht feels like it’s yours. Our all-inclusive luxury French barge cruise in France is packed with adventure and excitement; the result is a pure French fantasy! Discover the rich flavors and zest for local life barging on the canals and rivers of France. Stays are inclusive of all meals, fine wines, and spirits, as well as all activities and equipment. Join us, and we’ll help you create your own retreat. Bring a few friends or your family along on this French canal cruise for the adventure of a lifetime because a French barge vacation with us makes an impact with authentic experiences, new profound relationships, and cultural experiences. This unique journey offers exclusive and unforgettable interactions with locals. Life as you know it seems very far away!

The Setting

The Grand Victoria cruises the countryside of France. Explore boutique shops and bustling local markets, lunch at a local bistro while pampered by the owners themselves, tour the legendary Burgundian vineyards, and wineries dotting the countryside, and walk the ramparts of historic château in private tours, all possible to do during one of our French canal cruises. Burgundy is even more beautiful than the imagination. There’s a special flavor with a blend of culture and tradition. It’s in the Burgundy wine but it transcends everything. It’s in the graciousness of the people. It’s in the quaint villages speckled among the Burgundy vineyards. And you quickly learn that fine French wine is only where Burgundy’s story starts. On our river and canal cruise itineraries, you’ll take in some of the best destinations in France for wine lovers.

Explore Medieval France

There are hundreds of châteaux in France, many dating back to the Middle Ages. A region rich in history and culture, with beautiful architectural wonders, perfectly viewed from your own luxury French barge cruise. Burgundy was once home to the Dukes of Burgundy, rulers of a territory stretching across eastern France. The historic and modern capital of Burgundy is Dijon. Dijon has a historic city center, with old narrow streets, and houses built in the local pale honey-colored stone; of particular interest to visitors are the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, and the gothic Cathedral of Saint Bénigne. The region possesses a rich architecture including a religious heritage noted in the thousand-year-old Abbeys. Wine is the pride of Burgundy, which some of the most famous wines in the world. The Romans introduced grapes and the production of wine was mastered by local monks. Vineyards stretch from Dijon, along a narrow slope for some hundred kilometers, in the Côtes de Nuits and the Côtes de Beaune vineyard areas.

Exploring France's Waterways on Luxury River & Canal Cruises

Embark on a luxurious journey through French River and Canal cruises, indulging in the finest French wines and cuisine without the crowds. When it comes to experiencing the beauty of France uniquely and luxuriously, nothing quite compares to the indulgence of a luxury river cruise.

The Art of Slow Travel: Embracing the Relaxed Pace of a Burgundy Canal Cruise

In a world that seems to move faster and faster every day, it can be challenging to step back and appreciate the beauty of a slower pace of life. However, embracing the art of slow travel can provide an entirely new and exciting way to experience the world.

One of the best ways to embrace a relaxed pace in your travels is to take a Burgundy canal cruise. Here at Grand Victoria Cruises, our private charter trips allow you to leisurely explore the region's history, culture, and food while cruising down a picturesque canal.

Ready to join us? Here are three tips to fully embrace the relaxed pace of a Burgundy canal cruise.

9 Reasons to Book a Luxury French Barge Cruise This Summer

Looking for something different from your summer vacation this year? The beautiful vineyards and quaint backstreets of the French countryside may be just what you need.

And if you want to experience France away from the beaten tourist trail, a luxury barge cruise down Burgundy’s world-renowned waterways makes for a truly unforgettable experience. You can relax and enjoy the breathtaking scenery from the comfort of your own private charter, perhaps with a glass of one of the region’s celebrated wines in your hand.

We may be biased, but our decades of experience in luxury travel have shown us just how special a French canal cruise can be. In this post, we’re sharing nine of our favorite reasons to take a luxury barge cruise in France this summer.

3 Causes of the Burgundy Wine Shortage

Burgundy, located in the eastern region of France, is known for its iconic wines that are renowned for their quality and complexity. However, in recent years, there have been concerns about the shortages of Burgundy wine. Several key factors have contributed to this situation, including climate change, disease, and changing consumer preferences.

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The Grand Victoria is the perfect barge to cruise through France in style

Shari and I can’t tell you how much we enjoyed our time with you, Cindy and with the other members of the crew. It seemed like the week flew by. We really enjoyed the pace of the whole week.

Dan & Shari

We really enjoyed the dual barging routes of cruising on the canals and then the amazingly beautiful Soane River. It was a delightful surprise for us, having only done canals before on our previous barge vacations.

Joan L - Virginia

Over the top...spectacular trip of a lifetime experience. The cabin accommodations were thoughtfully designed and well decorated. Exceptionally clean in all aspects. The very best part was the wine and food...

John & Deborah G

This was our first barge experience. Edward and Cindy were incredible hosts and their staff is exceptional. The accomdations on the barge are first class. The decor is beautiful. It is very obvious that attention was given to every detail and far exceeded our expectations.

Theresa H - New York

Classic burgundy wine cruise.

Explore quintessential Burgundy onboard the luxury hotel barge Grand Victoria. A relaxing river and canal cruise, that brings you intimately closer to the best of Burgundy, France. Tour the historic city of Dijon or the charming village of Beaune. Enjoy driving through the vineyards, and discover the true taste of Burgundy’s appellations, viticulture, and winemaking from the heart of the Côte d'Or. Onboard our gourmet meals and incredible wines await you at every meal.

Wine and Dine in Alsace-Lorraine

Nestled in the northeastern corner of France, the picturesque region of Alsace is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. A barge vacation stands out as an immersive and enchanting way to explore canals, vineyards, and charming villages. At the heart of this experience lies the captivating city of Strasbourg, where history, culture, and modernity seamlessly blend.

Culinary Cruise in France

Taste your way around France. A culinary tour in France is the perfect retreat to experience new recipes and cuisines. Travel from Lyon to St. Jean de Losne on the River Saône. Grand Victoria Cruises is here to give you the best experience of classic French cuisine, visiting many of the most famous places to sample high-quality food and drink.  Get in touch with Grand Victoria Cruises for a culinary vacation in France today.

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The Burgundy Canal, France

The Burgundy Canal is perfect for hotel barge cruises and boat rentals. Located in central eastern France, Burgundy has a varied and dramatic landscape and with hundreds of miles or waterways, a perfect adventure and pleasure to explore.

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History and heritage! There is so much to discover in Burgundy.

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Burgundy Canal hotel barge cruises and canal boat rental hire

Canal cruises on barges and boats in burgundy, france.

Hotel barges

Discover the finest barge cruises in Burgundy, from 2 to 12 passengers. Short or 7 days and up to 15-day cruises for charters or individuals and groups. An exclusive & luxurious experience.

Self-drive boats

The best choice for canal boat hire, from luxurious modern cruisers to traditional canal boats, are all fully equipped and ready to go. Enjoy a one-way or return trip on the canals and rivers. We provide impartial advice from our experienced team based near Dijon in Burgundy.

About the Canal

Historical and monumental, the construction of the Burgundy Canal spanned more than 100 years and changed the surrounding landscape along a path of more than 250 kilometres. It includes more than 150 locks, a 3-kilometre tunnel, aqueducts, and reservoirs holding millions of tonnes of water. The canals flow through the capital city of Dijon . Nearby the canal, you have the wines and the vineyards of "The Climats, terroirs of Burgundy" , a UNESCO World Heritage.

Discover the best hotel barge cruises and self-drive boat trips on France’s magnificent Burgundy Canal. The calm inland waterways climb from the rivers Saône and Yonne heading high into rolling hills covered in dense forests of oak and elm.

As you cruise along the canal, you’ll pass through villages and small towns with typical bistros to appreciate and markets and shops to delve into. Medieval castles, ancient abbeys and fortified walls remain standing and waiting. Noble vineyards with some of the world's greatest red and white crus, the wine cellars are close by and offer you fascinating opportunities for wine tasting.

There are miles of towpaths, lanes and country roads perfect for walking and cycling! Scenic villages and magnificent UNESCO sites to visit such as Fontenay Abbey , the Hospices de Beaune and much more. This is a peaceful and calm destination, perfect for family and friend holidays.

The trip of a lifetime begins when you contact France Cruises ®    

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Our knowledgeable travel experts offer a magnitude of experienced advice from the smallest more intimate cruising such as our  canal hotel barges  to our legendary larger scale riverboat cruises . No detail overlooked and no dream unimaginable.

We invite you to take a look at our custom  French travel vacation packages  tailored according to your needs and budget.  FRANCE CRUISES  is your most reliable travel services provider for luxurious wine and customized tours throughout France and beyond.

FRANCE CRUISES  sophisticated and skilled philosophy gives us a strong advantage, accommodating our customers with the finest travel options available. From our first-class hotel accommodations to our breathtaking excursions, extending into our transportation, airport transfers and more.

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Thank you for the reviews we are proud of  

We just finished our trip on board of the Enchante.  It all was much better than we have expected,  a great success due to the first class service we received through the whole process. Booking trough France Cruises was an outstanding experience. Jean, you service  was super fast, every demand we had was met...  All the best  Rafael, Cani, Ceci, Alec, Jana,Roberto, Monica, Felipe

Thank you so much for helping us plan our wonderful trip.  Every thing went smoothly thanks to your help and attention to detail. The week on the barge was fabulous.  We loved every minute of the week. We felt very pampered, the barge is beautiful and the scenery along the canal was so interesting.   We could not believe it when our week ended.  We would not have wished for anything to be different... 

It was perfect!  Rory and Caroline were the best hosts ever, warm and inviting. Every meal was a delight. The barge is beautiful, comfortable and spotless. All four of the “kids” were blown away by the entire experience. Thank you for all you contributed as well. You were always available and responsive. We can’t wait to do it again in another region of France.  Lee  

Just arrived home. Loved the barge!  Fabulous time!  Cruise was superb. Food outstanding. Staff excellent. A great trip. Perfect weather. Merci merci merci!!!

Jerry and I want to thank you again for your assistance in planning our recent trip on The Deborah.  We all had a fantastic time! The barge and crew were wonderful. Thanks again, Jerry & Molly 

Everything was fantastic and went off as planned. The Normandy trip was equally exceptional. Enjoyed the guide immensely you set up for us. Thanks for taking care of us, will definitely use you again!  

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Explore Burgundy On A France Canal Cruise

By Author Daryl and Mindi Hirsch

Our France canal cruise with European Waterways transported us into the heart of Southern Burgundy via a luxury barge. If you’re considering this type of travel, expect to eat great food and drink world-class wines while experiencing the beauty of rural France.

Barging in France is not for the weak. This type of travel requires tenacious stamina to handle a never-ending onslaught of classically prepared French food and a constant flow of some of the world’s best wine for seven straight days. However, the rewards are high for those up to the challenge.

Pro Tip Don’t cruise without travel insurance !

Why We Took A Barge Cruise In France

As avid food travelers, we were game to give barge cruising in France a try. We previously dipped our toes into the cruise world during a river cruise up the romantic Rhine and then dove deeper with a two-week ocean cruise in Asia. But barge cruising, with jaunts through picturesque villages, immersive locks and century-old stone bridges, was a mystery to us.

Although we had heard good things about France canal cruising from friends and colleagues, we were skeptical. The idea of floating along French canals on a small boat seemed like it might become boring after a day or two.

And, to be honest, we wondered if the food and wine would really be that good. We’ve eaten in some of the best restaurants in the world, tasted amazing wines in destinations as far away as South Africa and California and stayed in the finest hotels in cities like Shanghai and Hanoi .

In other words, we have high expectations and have been disappointed before.

However, our love for France and its wine outweighed any minor concerns when the opportunity arose for us to travel through Southern Burgundy for a week. Plus, we’re always looking for excuses to return to great French culinary hotspots like Lyon and Paris , both of which are within a couple of hours of Burgundy.

What It’s Like To Take A France Canal Cruise With European Waterways

Cutting to the chase, we loved everything about barging in France with European Waterways . However, we loved the wine most of all.

Burgundy’s big beautiful vintages are reason enough to travel by canal boat in France. With this in mind, our European Waterways cruise team curated an amazing array of wines, both white and red, that ran the gamut from solid regional appellations to outstanding grand cru wines that astonished us on a daily basis.

Each day of the week was a culinary adventure in which we experienced a different aspect of Burgundian gastronomy. The epitome of slow travel, the barge’s leisurely pace provided ample time for us to relax and savor the region’s many flavors, often with a glass of wine in hand.

Our barge cruise on the L’Impressioniste kept us busy as it gently flowed through Southern Burgundy’s Ouche Valley. It sailed over serene canals and through fascinating locks from Escommes to Fleurey-sur-Ouche with detours to historic chateaux, epic vineyards and the Burgundian cities of Beaune and Dijon.

Though our cruise itinerary included all meals and an open bar as well as activities each day, we never felt overwhelmed. How could we when the itinerary allowed us to spend hours floating by medieval cities while sipping champagne?

The barge cruised at a snail’s pace, allowing us to walk along towpaths, pass cycling locals and savor the scenery. The canals drift pass some of the richest farmland in France where cows happily graze along verdant, sloping Burgundy hills.

Perhaps you’re considering taking a French barge cruise and are wondering what the experience will be like. Though we can’t speak for every barge cruise and every barge cruise company, here’s what life is like on European Waterways’ L’Impressioniste:

Built in 1960 and converted to a hotel barge in 1996, L’Impressioniste accommodates up to 12 passengers in four well-appointed staterooms and two junior suites. Keeping to theme, each room on the bateau (boat in French) is named after an Impressionist artist. Names like Monet, Degas and Renoir adorn entrances along a narrow hallway below deck.

Barge amenities include a six-person hot tub situated on the outdoor deck, a fleet of bicycles, various books and board games. We were the only passengers who utilized the hot tub during our cruise, though most of our companions were happy to partake in an open bar that included dozens of premiums liquors, wines and beer available on an unlimited 24/7 basis.

Pro Tip Drink Pastis like the French. The crew mixes Mauresque and Tomate cocktails upon request.

Our Stateroom

We stayed in the Sisley stateroom during our week-long barge cruise. Located mid-stern, this room features a comfortable double bed, three portholes and a modern bathroom stocked with L’Occitaine products.

This compact living quarters provided adequate room for us to unpack all of our clothing and personal items. Though we didn’t spend a lot of time there, it was a comfortable refuge after nightly multi-course meals.

Common Areas

L’Impressioniste hosted nine wine lovers (including us) during our barge holiday with room to spread out in both the common “saloon” area and outdoor deck. We often chatted with worldly fellow cruisers, sharing stories about past travels and favorite food experiences. However, we could always find a quiet spot to check email or share a private moment.

Though we enjoyed drinks and snacks in the lounge, we ate our meals at a communal dining room table. In many ways, this table became the hub of the boat. It’s also where we ate fabulous food while enjoying wine fit for royalty.

Oenophiles flock to Burgundy for the chance to drink and purchase wines like Chablis and Pinot Noir at Burgundian vineyards. These wine connoisseurs make advance arrangements to meet with negotiants or to visit winemakers. As we learned during our first trip to Burgundy, these appointments can be difficult if not impossible to secure especially during the harvest season.

During our Southern Burgundy barge cruise, we didn’t have to worry about making appointments yet we still drank copious amounts of Burgundy wine. Not only did the crew shower us with amazing vintages during every lunch and dinner, but they also had bottles available at the bar any time we wanted to drink a glass or two.

At some meals, we indulged in regional and village wines. We enjoyed these wines but the real thrill came from drinking premier cru and grand cru vintages during other meals. To us, exploring Burgundy’s world-class wine while drifting along its quaint canal system was the best part of the barge cruise experience.

Drinking wine beyond the barge’s confines was an unexpected perk. During our cruise, European Waterways whisked us to great Burgundian wineries.

During one excursion, Burgundy native Clair Burnez dazzled us with tongue-tingling Grand Cru Montrachet at legendary Domaine Bouchard in Beaune. She escorted us deep into Bouchard’s daunting wine cellars before guiding us through a tasting of Burgundy’s liquid elixir.

The next day, we sampled complex Grand Cru reds at intimate Domaine Quivy in the Côte de Nuits. Passionate winemaker Johan Chatelus introduced us to a variety of wines produced without pesticides or chemical fertilizers as is required in Burgundy. The family-run winery creates a range of classic Burgundian wines ranging in price from €12 to €200 at the time of our visit.

Starting with nibbles during Sunday’s welcoming champagne reception all the way to Saturday’s final breakfast, we ate well. As we discovered during the week, the crew sources ingredients at hyper-local markets on a daily basis as part of the barge’s culinary program.

Pro Tip Let European Waterways know if you have any dietary requirements. Barge chefs can make special accommodations for Vegetarians and passengers with eating restrictions.

Served for two hours each morning, breakfast on our barge was a leisurely meal with a variety of meat, cheese, croissants, yogurt and fruit placed on the barge’s large dining room table. Though these options were more than enough for us after the ship’s extraordinary nightly feasts, other passengers ordered specially prepared eggs and omelets from the kitchen.

Lunch on L’Impressioniste spans the bridge between breakfast and dinner in terms of scope and formality. We typically ate two-course lunches starting with savory dishes like salmon fillets and leek tarts before finishing with either dessert or cheese.

Pre-Dinner Snacks

Before each dinner on our cruise, passengers nibbled on passed hors d’oeuvres while sipping on a wide array of beverage options. Some of our companions opted for cocktails at these times. Being in Burgundy, we always opted to drink ‘local’ wine instead.

The highlight of each day and the glorious culmination of the chef’s culinary efforts, our barge dinners were epic events featuring four courses and bottomless bottles of wine. Main courses varied every night with dishes like duck confit, rack of lamb, herb-crusted hake and locally sourced Charolais steak.

There’s a French expression that goes “ triste comme un repas sans fromage” loosely meaning “What’s a meal without cheese?” We were never blue during our European Waterways barge cruise, except maybe when there was no more fromage bleu .

Like most meals in France, L’Impressioniste features an impressive cheese course during every dinner. The crew served us a number of fromage champions including oozy Brie de Meaux, pungent Epoisses de Bourgogne, umami-filled 36-month aged Comté, head knocking Roquefort and goaty Valencay.

If you love cheese, this is your cruise!

Pro Tip Cheese lovers won’t want to skip breakfast with leftover cheese from the previous night’s dinner. We call this excellent product repurposing.

We thought we were too full for dessert every night during the cruise yet we couldn’t resist desserts like caramelized lemon tarts, chocolate fondant and Italian tiramisu. In retrospect, we have no regrets for enjoying every decadent bite.

Discover the best French desserts and pastries .

Staff And Service

Our barge crew totaled six professionals including a captain, chef, pilot, hostess, host and matelot (i.e. sailor). Beyond handling logistics and transportation both on and off the barge, the crew made sure that we were well fed and hydrated at all hours of the day. And by hydrated, we mean filled with wine.

The ratio of crew to passengers is a major differentiating factor when comparing European barge cruises to river cruises. With a ratio of six to nine during our barge cruise, we felt fully pampered at all times. The international crew focused on hospitality as much as safety, ensuring a smooth sailing on all counts.

Shore Excursions

Despite the barge’s slow pace, we covered a lot of ground in Southern Burgundy during our week-long cruise. Daily excursions immersed us into local culture and left us yearning for a repeat visit.

These were our favorite excursions:

L’Enfant Jésus Vineyard

As much as we enjoyed drinking wine in Burgundy, we can’t overstate the impact of visiting a vineyard and experiencing the region’s unique terroir in person. Feeling calcareous soil under our feet and touching young grape leaves with our fingers gave us an appreciation to Burgundian wine that can’t be obtained from a book or class.

Local wine professional Clair Burnez provided a succinct introduction to Burgundy and its wine appellations during our visit at l’Enfant Jésus. Her informative words resounded as we stood on a sloping vineyard surrounded by rows of grapes as far as our eyes could see.

Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Burnez continued our accelerated wine education during a private tour at Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils. As interesting as it was to view the winery’s private collection stored underneath a former castle, the true magic happened while we tasted a variety of the famed winery’s Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines.

Our tasting including three red and two white varietals including 2013 vintages of Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru and Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru. Having just encountered local terroir during our vineyard visit, we felt a surge of confidence as we identified local fruits and spices while savoring every sip.

Giddy from the experience of tasting world-class wine at Bouchard’s converted castle, we convened to the winery’s orangery for lunch. This multi-course meal featured gougères, smoked trout, guinea fowl, cheese and cassis-laden berries.

Meal highlight? We’d have to pick sharing a bottle of 2014 Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus Premier Cru wine produced from grapes grown at the vineyard we visited earlier in the day.

Domaine Quivy

Winemaker Johan Chatelus greeted us at Domaine Quivy, a family vineyard located in an 18th-century mansion. Though he’s not part of the family, Chatelus spared no wines during an interactive tasting featuring the winery’s premier and grand cru vintages.

Tasting wine at a Burgundy winery is a bucket list experience for wine lovers around the world. Thanks to European Waterways, we experienced two different tastings in one week.

Pro Tip You can purchase wine at tastings like the one we did at Domaine Quivy. As a bonus, value-added taxes (VAT) are typically waived for shipments to destinations outside the European Union.

Château De Commarin

Historic Château de Commarin dates back centuries in the Côte d’Or. Beyond its classic architecture and many tapestries, the château is notable for having 26 generations of the de Vogue family reside on its palatial premises. While exploring the châteaux grounds with current resident Count Bertrand de Vogue, we even met the estate’s miniature pot-bellied pigs.

As an added treat, local aviculturists led us through an interactive demonstration involving exotic falcons and owls. The demo’s showstopper was a Siberian eagle owl with a 70-inch wingspan. Since this bird is a predator capable of killing large animals, including humans, we kept a respectful distance.

Hôtel-Dieu De Beaune

Founded in 1443 as a hospital for the destitute, Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune provides an intriguing glimpse into Burgundy’s storied past. During our visit, we explored the hospice’s history as well as the building’s classic Burgundian architecture and art. Our tour took us into the Room of the Poor, where patients slept, as well as through the chapel, pharmacy and kitchen.

Pro Tip Plan a separate visit to Beaune in November when the Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune hosts its annual charity wine auction. The city is filled with festivities during the entire weekend.

Dijon Market

More than spicy mustard, Dijon is a charming Burgundian city with a deep culinary tradition. Our Dijon excursion took us to the city center where we sampled local treats including macarons, cheese and mustard. However, this excursion’s highlight was visiting Dijon’s bustling covered market.

Built in the 19th century, Marche Les Halles Dijon is a grand market filled with vendors selling a melange of local products. Butchers sell Bresse Chickens and Charolais beef. Produce merchants sell fruits and vegetables plucked from the earth that morning. Traiteurs sell all manner of French specialties including large varieties of Pâte en Croute and saucissons.

Though our Dijon excursion was relatively brief, we had just enough time to fall for the city’s many charms. Not only did we enjoy a decadent slice of Pâte en Croute stuffed with Guinea Fowl and Foie Gras at the market, but we also indulged in colorful macarons at local pâtissier Pierre Hubert.

We hope to return to Dijon and more deeply explore the city’s cathedrals, shops and food. Especially the food.

What To Pack

Unlike most other cruises, European Waterways’ barge cruises do not have a dress code. During our week-long cruise, everybody dressed comfortably in what can best be described as business casual. Some of us dressed up on the last night, but this was optional with one of our companions opting to wear shorts that evening.

Don’t Forget These Items

• Adaptors : Unless you’re based in Europe, you’ll need adaptors to plug your electronics into the barge’s many electrical outlets.
• WiFi Hot Spot : Barge cruising in France includes free internet but coverage can be spotty on the canals. You will want to bring a hot spot if you want uninterrupted connectivity during the week.
• Books or Kindle : Be sure to upload any books to your Kindle before the cruise. Barge cruising provides ample downtime for reading.
• Swimsuit : Bring a swimsuit if you plan to use the jacuzzi. The cruise provides towels, so you can leave those at home.
• Comfortable Shoes : Pack walking shoes for strolling along towpaths and flip flops for lounging on the deck.

Leave These Items At Home

• Basic Toiletries: Since European Waterways provides L’Occitaine products, you can leave your shampoo, conditioner and lotion at home. However, don’t forget personal items like sunscreen, shaving lotion and toothpaste.
• Umbrellas: Umbrellas are available on the barge if it rains. Since it rained several days during our cruise, we can attest to their quality and functionality.
• Maps: The crew handles all logistics and ground transportation during the cruise.
• Fancy Clothes: Sorry fashionistas, you have no need for ball gowns or stilettos during a barge cruise. Though not mandato

Pro Tip Save extra room in your luggage for any edible souvenirs you buy during daily shore excursions. These edible souvenirs may include macarons, wine and Dijon mustard, of course.

Additional Logistics

European Waterways operates 17 luxury barges in its namesake continent. As you make your plans, consider the following:

• European Waterways runs cruises in nine counties. Popular destinations include France, Italy and Scotland.
• Cruises operate from April through October.
• Each cruise is six nights long.
• All cruises are all-inclusive of food, wine, activities, ground transportation and an open bar.
• Tips are not included and are expected.
• Large groups can charter an entire barge.
• The European Waterways website has details regarding availability and pricing.

Get a discounted quote for travel insurance to protect your trip from things like injuries, theft and cancelations. We never travel without protection!

Hungry For More Cruises?

About the Authors

Daryl & Mindi Hirsch

Saveur Magazine’s BEST TRAVEL BLOG award winners Daryl and Mindi Hirsch share their culinary travel experiences and recipes on the 2foodtrippers website. Since launching the site in 2012, they’ve traveled to over 40 countries in their quest to bring readers their unique taste of the world.

Disclosures

Article Updates We update our articles regularly. Some updates are major while others are minor link changes and spelling corrections. Let us know if you see anything that needs to be updated in this article. Sponsorship We thank European Waterways for hosting us to facilitate this article.

Original Publication Date: May 21, 2019

Linda Israel

Sunday 9th of June 2019

Just reading about this cruise makes me high. It sounds fantastic.

Tuesday 28th of May 2019

This is the ultimate trip for me, I'm so jealous! I was actually looking at a similar trip option departing from Dijon and was contemplating whether I should do this one or the cruise along Canal du Midi. I think I've made up my mind. I can't wait to start planning!

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European Waterways Barge Cruise Along France’s Canal Du Midi

Written by susan lanier-graham, cruises | destinations | europe | france | luxury travel | travel.

A barge cruise in France with European Waterways offers a quiet, peaceful retreat. Read on to see why a barge cruise is an ideal way to explore France.

People always ask me about my favorite place to travel. I never hesitate when I respond that it’s the South of France. I adore the rolling hills along the Mediterranean, the vast vineyards stretching for miles, and the olive trees swaying in the breezes. So, I didn’t hesitate when European Waterways invited me on a luxury barge cruise on the Canal du Midi in the South of France. I have taken two barge cruises, both with European Waterways, and this one was simply idyllic as I experienced the region’s slow pace. Come along on this luxury barge cruise in the South of France.

What's in This Article:

What is a Barge Cruise?

Barges, used initially to shuttle goods along the inner waterways throughout Europe, are now floating hotels. European Waterways operates barges throughout Europe, primarily from April to October, although there are a few options during winter. 

One of three boats to traverse Canal du Midi, Enchanté is an “ultra-deluxe” converted barge with four cabins for up to eight passengers. On our recent cruise, my husband and I were one of three couples on the barge. It was built in 1958 to move freight barge from Belgium. It was converted into a hotel barge in 2008/2009.

Note : The barge runs with two 220-volt generators, equipped with hospital silencers for night running. The electricity is all 220, so bring your adapters. Leave your curling irons, straight irons, and irons at home. You can use the provided hair dryer, but you don’t want to overwhelm that electrical system.

Suites on the Barge

Like each suite on Enchanté, our suite featured a lovely King-sized bed (they can be configured with two twins if you’re traveling with a friend), a desk, a sitting area, and an ensuite bathroom. There is a hair dryer, a shower, bathrobes, and ample room to move around in your suite. Each one is about 165 square feet with 6.5-foot ceilings. We were in the Pleiades suite built into the boat’s stern with three portholes offering ample light.

All suites are on the lower level, while the salon, dining room, open kitchen, and sun deck are above. The rooms are comfortable and quiet, the staff accommodating, and the pace of the barge allows you to slow down and unwind.

The Staff on the Barge

Enchanté has a crew of five, including the captain, tour director, chef, housekeeper, and hostess. The tour director accompanies passengers on each shore excursion while the housekeeper and hostess see to your every need.

Listen to More Stories about Barging and River Cruising on  Wander Stories

Where is the canal du midi.

Canal du Midi is a 330-year-old canal running from the Mediterranean coast inland through the famous Languedoc wine region. This is an opportunity for a true escape from everyday life. 

The Canal du Midi runs for 150 miles through Southern France. It runs from Toulouse to the Mediterranean and was built between 1666 and 1681, making it one of Europe’s oldest operating canals. While it once was a major transportation canal for trade, it is mostly for entertainment today. Canal du Midi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and traversing at least part of it is a step back in time.

Getting to Narbonne

The cruise started in Narbonne, so we had to get to this lovely French town to meet the European Waterways crew. My husband, Bill, and I flew into Frankfurt, Germany, and then took a Lufthansa flight to Marseille. After an overnight in Marseille, we boarded the high-speed TGV train for a quick trip to Narbonne.

When we arrived in Narbonne, we could have taken a taxi, but it was a perfect spring day, so we walked the 15 minutes to Île du Gua Suites, the hotel European Waterways suggested. It is the pickup point for passengers, so we thought it would be ideal to stay there.

Our Stay at Île du Gua Suites in Narbonne

Our stay at Île du Gua Suites was a perfect start to a delightful time in Southern France. The all-suite hotel is modern and bright, although it is housed in an 11th-century mill on the Robine Canal. Each room has a private wooden terrace or balcony overlooking the water garden or the canal. We looked out over the canals; it was a peaceful, relaxing spot.

View of canals from our room at Île du Gua. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

The room had a large whirlpool bath, ideal after a long international flight and the European plane and train connections. We settled in for the afternoon and booked dinner at the hotel’s adjacent restaurant, Brasserie du Moulin, located in the original mill building.

The original mill at Île du Gua houses the Brasserie. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We chose to eat outdoors on the patio, where we could watch passersby on the canal and enjoy the early summer air.

Patio at Brasserie. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

The food was exceptional, and we settled in for a long dinner, taking our time and savoring the local flavors.

The next morning, we enjoyed the included breakfast at the hotel. I love European breakfasts, and this one was exceptional. After breakfast, we stashed our luggage at the front desk and explored Narbonne before our 1 p.m. pickup for our canal cruise.

About Narbonne

We knew that on one of the days during the barge cruise, we would be exploring the town, so we wanted to wander and check out things we wouldn’t likely see with our fellow bargers.

Walkway leaving Île du Gua toward Narbonne. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Narbonne, founded in 118 BC as a Roman settlement, offers beautiful canal-side walks. Today, it is the sixth largest city in France. Narbonne is known for its art and history. Julius Caesar conquered Gaul from his base in Narbonne. We also heard it rumored that, while in Narbonne, Isaac “the blind,” a companion of Maimonides, wrote the first Kabbalah.

Since we were scheduled to visit the massive Cathedral of St. Just and St. Pasteur with European Waterways, we bypassed it and instead made our way to the canal and wandered its edge through the city. We headed to Les Halles de Narbonne, the massive food market.

Canal in central Narbonne. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Les Halles is home to over 70 food shops, including bakers, pastry cooks, butchers, delicatessens, fishmongers, greengrocers, poulterers, delicatessens, and even wine bars. I love European food markets, and this was one of the best I’ve discovered.

I loved Les Halles Narbonne, one of my favorite European food markets. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We wound our way back down cobblestone streets, returning to Île du Gua just in time to order a cold drink, and then boarded our 9-seat Mercedes Sprinter van and headed less than one hour to Enchanté.

The Barge Cruise in France Experience 

The barging experience is nothing like other cruises, not even small-ship cruising that I adore. With only eight passengers (although some boats can accommodate 10 or 12 passengers), it provides a quiet escape. We felt like extended family and enjoyed sharing travel stories with our fellow passengers.

Each day, we cruised slowly along the canal, only going a total distance of about 50 miles over the entire week. The highlight of each day was enjoying gourmet meals.

The barge moves slowly along the canal, allowing you to stroll along or ride one of the onboard bicycles. I didn’t choose that option, but my husband did decide to get off and walk one day, and he enjoyed the experience. I was very happy to sit on the deck, sipping champagne and watching the world slowly glide past.

Spaces on the Barge

As I mentioned, the suites are all on the lower deck, where you can also find a computer with internet access in a small office area. I had my laptop with me, so I never used the computer. The internet on board is average for boats, but you’re always near towns, so I could use my cell phone with an international plan as a tether to get online.

Upstairs, you’ll find the social areas on the barge. On Enchanté, the kitchen is open to the dining room and salon. Large, panoramic windows stretch the entire length of the boat, making it easy to sit inside and watch the landscape go past. The dining table seats all eight guests. The six of us on our cruise enjoyed family-style meals gathered around the table. There is a fully stocked bar where you can help yourself or have the staff create your drink of choice, whether it’s coffee, tea, wine, or a cocktail.

Salon and dining room on Enchanté. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

The salon has comfortable chairs that can seat all eight guests. That opens to the sundeck, including an al fresco dining table for eight with a sun canopy for shade. There is also a large hot tub for soaking. Each evening, the captain would post a little sign showing us the next day’s itinerary.

The captain posted the daily itinerary in the salon. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Breakfast on the Barge

We began each day’s leisurely routine with a sit-down breakfast and specially prepared dishes from the chef. It became such an anticipation to head upstairs to the welcoming smells and a cup of fresh coffee. Breakfast is usually continental with fresh breads and pastries. The chef would create eggs on request, and I loved his omelets and eggs Benedict. 

On some days, we cruised in the morning and took our short excursion in the afternoon, while on other days, we headed off the barge in the morning for an excursion, returning after lunch to head to the next location. 

Lunch on the Barge

Lunch is a casual, delicious, 3-course meal paired with local wines. It’s not as formal as dinner, but the food was always delicious. There was always a salad or soup, followed by a main course.

Lunch onboard Enchanté. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We ended each lunch with a scrumptious dessert created by the chef. 

Dessert onboard Enchanté. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We enjoyed experiencing the wines the chef chose each day. I always ended lunch with an extra glass of wine on the deck.

Dinner on the Barge

Dinner was a beautiful production that I anticipated each day. The open kitchen on Enchanté, with the chef preparing meals throughout the day as we were in and out. The smells would waft through the barge all day, building anticipation as we approached dinner. 

I loved watching the chef preparing dinner each day. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Everyone always changed clothes for dinner. Nothing formal, but we all changed and spruced up after a day of exploring. We gathered in the salon (if the weather was bad) or on the deck for aperitifs before dinner. It was always with great fanfare that the chef welcomed us into the dining room for our meal. 

Sometimes, the chef would serve things we had discovered in the market on an excursion. This was always special, and we loved seeing him take ingredients we had seen in the market and create an exquisite meal at day’s end.

A lunch spread onboard Enchanté was created using our market finds. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Two attendants were with us for each meal, offering exquisite, personalized service. Dinner always included an appetizer, main course, cheese, and dessert. Again, everything is paired with both a white and red wine. Sometimes, we had lively discussions about the pros and cons of each wine. On one occasion, none of us were fans of the red wine served, so the captain opened a different wine for us to sample, which met with great enthusiasm. 

I enjoyed the food onboard Enchanté. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

On the final night, the captain’s farewell dinner meant we all dressed up just a bit and savored an exquisite meal and the best wines of the trip.

Excursions During the Barge Cruise in France

Throughout the cruise, there are small stops along the way. This area of France is filled with gourmet delights and history, and you can explore both during your cruise. The captain, Ms. Nicky Gulland, would head out with us on the comfortable van, handling everything so we could simply enjoy the area. 

Day 1: Salleles d’Aude

We met Enchanté, where the staff greeted us with a champagne toast. We settled into our suites, unpacked, and then returned to the deck as we sailed a short distance to Salleles d’Aude. The chef had started preparing dinner, and the smells were wafting through the salon.

Enchanté anchored at Salleles d’Aude. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Once we anchored for the evening at Salleles d’Aude, Bill and I decided to get off and stroll along the canal. We discovered a tiny little town and sat for a bit at a restaurant perched on the banks of the canal.

Wandering along the canal in Salleles d’Aude. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After dinner, the six passengers sat around the table, enjoyed nightcaps, and retired early to wake up at 8 the next morning for breakfast before our first full day onboard Enchanté exploring Canal du Midi.

Day 2: Salleles d’Aude to Roubia

We set sail at 9 am on day two, headed for the medieval village of Roubia. Our first stop was for a short walk around the village of Le Somail. This is a charming little spot on the canal where we had time to pop into one of the best bookstores anywhere. Le Trouve Tout Du Livre opened in 1980 in an old cellar along the canal. Today, more than 50,000 books dating back to the 17th century fill every shelf, nook, and cranny. This is the offshoot of a Paris bookstore. 

Le Trouve Tout Du Livre in Le Somail France. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Le Somail is also home to le Tamata, a floating grocery store on a converted barge. It serves up fresh croissants and ice cream.

Enchanté makes a brief stop in Le Somail, giving you time to explore the tiny hamlet. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After the brief stop in Le Somail, we continued along Canal du Midi to Roubia. After a delightful lunch featuring one of my favorite wines of the trip—2011 Irancy Vin de Bourgogne—we climbed into the Mercedes for our first excursion.

Our first stop was at l’Oulibo, a high-end olive oil producer growing Lucques olives. We enjoyed tasting the oils and the olives and picked up a few to take home. They also have lovely housewares if you have enough room in your luggage to take some home. 

We headed to L’Oulibo Olive Cooperative and tasted the famous Lucques olives. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After our delicious olive tasting, we headed to Minerve, the ancient capital of the Minervois.

Minerve, France. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

The rocky, medieval town is home to a 12th-century Cathar fort surrounded by deep limestone gorges. As you wander the cobbled streets, the Captain will explain the town’s history, including a 1210 siege by Simon de Montfort.

I loved exploring the tiny paths leading through Minerve. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After Minerve, we returned to Enchanté for an evening filled with more great food and wine.

Day 3: Roubia to Homps

Our third day took us back to Narbonne via the Mercedes. We started with a visit to Les Halles. While we had wandered through on our own the morning before boarding Enchanté, it was much better to wander through with the chef. He pointed out the best cheese and incredibly fresh seafood.

We left the market and visited the Archbishop’s Palace and the Cathédrale Saint-Justus and Saint-Pasteur. The cathedral is splendid, both inside and out.

Construction on the cathedral began in April 1272 and continued until 1345 with the outbreak of the Hundred Years War. It remained unfinished for centuries, with some work starting again in the 17th century.

Cathedral of Saint Justus and Saint Pasteur in Narbonne. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

The Gothic-style cathedral was home to the archbishop of Narbonne until the French Revolution when the archbishop was transferred to Carcassonne. Today, it is a parish church.

Be sure to notice the great organ, which is more than 75 feet high on the western wall. The organ was designed by Christophe Moucherel between 1739 and 1741, replacing one destroyed by fire in 1727. Take time to enter the Treasure, containing precious art objects dating to the 13th century.

Inside the Cathedral in Narbonne. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Day 4: Homps to Puicheric

Our fourth day was spent exploring in the morning. We headed to the scenic town of Lagrasse, with our first stop at Vinaigrerie Cyril Codina . The men in the group were skeptical when they heard we were going for a vinegar tasting, but I told them to keep an open mind—and everyone enjoyed it. The balsamic vinegars are exquisite and made on-site in wooden barrels. We toured the facilities and saw the vinegars in various stages of aging.

Vinaigrerie Cyril Codina has a variety of vinegars aging throughout the premises. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After our tour, we headed to the showroom/tasting room. There are 45 different vinegars, and you’re encouraged to taste each. They also produce high-quality olive oils. I brought home a few bottles, and the captain picked up a couple of bottles to take to the chef so he could use them for dinner.

We sampled balsamic vinegar in the Vinaigrerie Cyril Codina showroom. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Exploring Lagrasse

After our vinegar tasting, we wandered around the medieval town of Lagrasse , often called one of the most beautiful villages in France. I agree. It is an exquisite little town. On Saturdays, you can find an active market, and artisan shops line the old cobbled streets.

The old town of Lagrasse in France. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After exploring the medieval old town, we made our way to Benedictine Abbey, founded in the 8th century. It was once a prosperous abbey, thanks to Charlemagne. We didn’t get inside the abbey that day, but wandering the grounds was very peaceful.

Lagrasse Abbey is a Benedictine abbey dating to the 8th century. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After all that exploring, we were hungry and excited to try one of the picturesque eateries that dotted Lagrasse. We stopped into Le Bastion, a lovely restaurant owned by two young chefs, Fabien De Bruyn and Valentin Renaud. The cuisine was quite creative and unexpected in this little town. The chefs blend traditional French cuisine with modern techniques and use the freshest ingredients. They have a lovely wine list—and I thought the beautiful menus were a creative touch.

Menu for La Bastion in Lagrasse, France.

The Next Destination

After a lovely day exploring the French countryside, we returned to Enchanté, with amazing smells greeting us from the kitchen. We enjoyed yet another amazing meal as we sailed a few miles to Puicheric.

Day 5: Puicheric to Marseillette

The next morning, we set sail early, heading to Marseillette. The day was beautiful, and I enjoyed watching us clear the small locks as we made our way along the canal.

Enchanté sailing between Puicheric and Marseillette. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We stopped at a small, quiet spot outside of town for the night, then enjoyed lunch before heading out on our afternoon excursion.

Enchanté near Marseillette for the evening. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Wine Tasting Near Marseillette

Four of us headed out that afternoon for a wine tasting. We drove to Château Saint Jacques d’Albas in Minervois to learn more about the Languedoc’s wine trade and sample wines in the winemaker’s cellar.

We enjoyed a wine tasting in the cellar at Château Saint Jacques d’Albas. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We had the chance to stop by another small vineyard and wandered through the picturesque setting where the owner told us about the challenges of growing grapes in the region.

Vineyards near Marseillette. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Following the afternoon spent wine tasting, we returned to Enchanté, where the smells of dinner once again beckoned to us. One of my favorite bites of the trip was that night—a lovely tuna tartare served with fresh avocado and some of the balsamic vinegar from Lagrasse. The chef paired it with a 2017 Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre, and that was about as close to perfection as it gets!

Tuna Tartare was served with local balsamic vinegar and a lovely 2017 Sancerre wine. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Day 6: Marseillette to Trebes

Our final day of sailing was also one of my favorites. Before leaving Marseillette, we loaded into the Mercedes minibus and headed to Carcassonne.

Dating back to the Gallo-Roman era, this fortified medieval town boasts 52 watchtowers and portcullis. Wandering through this walled town was like stepping back in time. Within the city walls are lovely little shops, restaurants, and hotels. One of these days, I would love to return and stay in Carcassonne.

Carcassonne, France. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

We returned to Enchanté, passed beautiful vineyards, and went through little towns to our final stop in Trèbes. Although we were very close to the city center, we docked a couple of blocks away, so our last evening still felt quiet and private.

Our final evening began with a champagne toast. The crew of five gathered on the deck with an assortment of finger foods, and everyone enjoyed a little time to sip bubbles and chat.

The crew of Enchantè wished us au revoir on our last night. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

Our final dinner did not disappoint. Chef created memorable dishes to wish us well as we prepared for the next day’s departure.

Our final dessert on Enchantè was yet another work of art by the chef. Photo by Susan Lanier-Graham

After a restful night and a quick breakfast, our car arrived at about 9 the next morning, whisking us away to the Toulouse-Blagnac International Airport, where we caught a British Airways flight to London to await our next day’s departure for home.

Articles Related to Barge Cruising in France

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A Barge Cruise in the South of France with European Waterways

European Waterways offers the ideal escape to the South of France. This was an incredible escape. The relaxed atmosphere that still offers luxurious accommodations, the best gourmet cuisine, delicious wines, and a chance to experience the countryside in a small group makes it unforgettable. We invite you to explore Wander With Wonder for more of our favorite cruise experiences . 

Barge Cruise | European Waterways | Small Ship Cruising

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