2009 trek road bike

Gary Fisher

• 2009, Trek, 1.2

2009 Trek 1.2

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Trek Lime Lite WSD

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At a glance

Trek’s Women’s Lime Lite is an elegant bicycle designed with comfort, fun and ease of use in mind. Notice the clean lines, with no cables or controls to get in your way. Look at how the chain is completely covered so you never have to worry about it. And, check out the beautiful wheels and flat-resistant tires. Now, hop on and feel the comfort of the upright riding position and comfy padded seat positioned just right to let you place both feet flat on the ground. And, you’ll be amazed by the automatic 3-speed gearing that always keeps the pedaling easy letting you ride everywhere you want in style.

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Specifications

• Hubs Front: Shimano Coasting Dynamo; Rear: Shimano 3-speed w/coaster brake
• Chain Aluminum
• Handlebar Lime high-tensile-steel
• Saddle Bontrager Suburbia

Q: How much is a 2009 Trek Lime Lite WSD?

A 2009 Trek Lime Lite WSD is typically priced around $510 USD when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

Q: What size 2009 Trek Lime Lite WSD should I get?

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Trek 2000 Aluminum Road Bike LARGE

2010 trek madone 6.9 project one 54cm road bike, trek mens road bike 1400 $250, new 2023 trek madone 58cm, trek speed concept series 9.9 triathlon road bike 56, 2021 trek domane sl 4 carbon fiber road race bike disc brakes shimano low miles, roadbike triathlon full carbon size 58 important- not a trek bike- generic, trek crossrip 2 bicycle, 58cm frame; road, gravel, commute, tour, trek madone sl 6 gen 7 - crimson red 54cm brand new in box, trek madone road bike 56cm carbon fiber project one 9.9 2016 msrp 11,999$, trek madone slr 6 (2019), 50cm, 700 series carbon, upgrades, road race bike, trek emonda sl7 2021 (sz 52) - ultralight 500 series oclv carbon - free shipping, trek domane al 2 black and pink used once on street. on stand indoors since 2021, trek madone 5.2, shimano ultegra, carbon fiber road bike-2009, 56cm, msrp:$4k, trek domane 5.9, ultegra di2, carbon road bike-2015, 56cm, msrp: $5k, vintage trek 2300 pro carbon composite road bike usa bicycle shimano 600.

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Trek Madone SLR Project One - 56

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The 1.2 is the middle of Trek's three 1 Series aluminium road bikes, sitting between the Shimano Claris-equipped 1.1 (£575) and the 1.5 (£750), which comes with Shimano Tiagra components.

Is it the right bike for you? We've picked out four reasons why it might be, along with a reason that might make you think twice.

1 It provides solid performance with few surprises

The 1.2 puts in a solid performance out on the road, offering a stable, predictable ride, the only real disappointment being the lack of braking power (see below).

Hitting the scales at 9.48kg (20.9lb), the 1.2 isn't as lively as many lighter bikes, but for £650 this is certainly a decent enough weight. Compared to bikes of a similar price, it accelerates well. You'll find a little more flex in the frame and fork than in higher level models in Trek's range, but this is a bike that's well capable of holding its own when you crank up the power.

You could't say that the 1.2 is the fastest climber but it's far from sluggish when things get lumpy. It's helped in its hill-climbing endeavours by a compact chainset (with 50-tooth and 34-tooth chainrings rather than 52 or 53 and 39). Most bikes of this price come with something similar these days. Matched up to an 11-28-tooth cassette, it'll allow you to get up the vast majority of gradients without your knees popping or your lungs bursting, while still providing enough big gears to keep you bowling along quickly on the flat and downhill.

Aluminium frames have a reputation for feeling harsh but that's a gross generalisation. Some are jarring – as some carbon frames are – but plenty aren't. This bike is certainly comfortable enough for racking up the big miles.

For a start, it comes in Trek's H2 fit. That requires a brief explanation. Compared to Trek's H1 fit, H2 has a taller head tube: 3cm taller in the case of our 58cm test model. Why? It puts you into a more upright riding position with less strain on your lower back and neck. You could achieve a similar position by adding a bunch of headset spacers on an H1 bike, but if you want your bars at that height, you're better off going for an H2 fit because the front end will be stiffer and the handling will be better.

The Bontrager Race VR-C alloy handlebar has a shallower drop than usual too: 124mm rather than the 145mm you get on Bontrager's Race Lite Classic, for example. That means it's that much easier to get down on the drops. A lot of people have a bar with a deep drop and rarely take their hands off the hoods.

The other reason for the comfort is that the 1.2 is inherently pretty smooth. Sure, there are plenty of bikes out there that will filter our more road vibration but this one does a decent enough job on that front. Swapping the 23mm tyres for 25s would add more comfort but this bike isn't crying out for them by any means.

The Bontrager Gel Cork bar tape provides good cushioning for your hands and the Bontrager Affinity 1 saddle has plenty of padding too. Truth be told, I found it a little too soft, verging on squidgy, but everyone has their own taste when it comes to saddles.

2 You get a neat, well-proven frame and fork

All three bikes in the 1 Series share the same 100 Series Alpha Aluminium frame. It's fairly busy looking with a squared off upper edge to the down tube that makes it resemble that of Trek's more costly Madone.

The top tube slopes towards the seat tube junction and tapers down as it does so, and slim seatstays provide compliance at the back.

You get mounts for a mudguard and a rack back there too. They'll be useful if you want to ride the bike year round and perhaps carry stuff to and from work on a daily commute.

You don't get the oversized bottom bracket or tapered head tube that are regular features designed to add stiffness to higher-end performance bikes, but this is a £650 bike and the frame is good for the money. The welds are pretty tidy throughout and the same can be said of the paint job.

The fork is Trek's own with carbon blades and an alloy steerer. Like the frame, it comes with eyelets for fitting mudguards that will save a lot of faffing.

It's worth noting that the Trek 1.2 is available in eight sizes from 47cm up to 62cm. That range will cover nearly everyone.

3 Shimano's Sora shifters and mechs are excellent for the money

Nine-speed Sora is Shimano's fifth tier road groupset (if you don't count the electronic variants) and it offers fantastic value for money.

Back in the olden days (before last year), you changed gear on Sora by pushing the brake lever to the side or by using a small thumb lever on the side of the shifter body, depending on the direction you wanted to shift.

Now, though, Sora levers are Dual Control, so instead of that thumb lever, there's a lever tucked behind the brake lever. It's the same design that Shimano use right up to top-level Dura-Ace and it's a big improvement, making it far easier to change gear from the drops.

Resting your hands on the hoods is comfortable and there's a little gear indicator on the top of each of the levers that you might find useful. I can't say I ever checked them – I just couldn't get into the habit – but they're there if you want to.

Whereas the gear cables run underneath the bar tape on Shimano's higher level groupsets, they head out from the side of the levers with Sora and loop around to the frame in the fresh air. That's certainly not a problem from a functional point of view, although visually it's a less tidy way of doing things. That's being picky, though. Sora shifting has taken a massive leap forward with this latest design. It works very much like the highest level offerings from Shimano, just adding a little weight. Even there, the difference isn't massive.

Trek don't give you a complete Sora groupset here, just the shifters and mechs. The chainset is FSA Vero, a square taper design that does its job just fine, and the brakes, as mentioned, are unbranded.

Most other big brand bikes at this price, such as the Giant Defy 3 (£649) and the Felt F95 (£649), have Shimano Sora components too. It's worth comparing the spec sheets to see exactly how they match up, but don't buy a bike solely on that basis.

4 Bontrager's wheels and other components are good, reliable kit

The wheels are made up from Bontrager's own alloy hubs, containing cup and cone (rather than cartridge) bearings, and Tubeless Ready http://www.bontrager.com/technology/why_tubeless_ready rims. That means you can run the wheels without inner tubes at some point in the future, although you'll need to upgrade to Tubeless Ready tyres first.

The tyres that come fitted as standard are Bontrager's T1s (700 x 23). They're some pretty hefty rubber, made for durability rather than all-out speed, but they're reasonably resistant to punctures and they hold the road well even in damp conditions.

I had no problems at all with the wheels during the month-long test period. They're not the lightest wheels ever, taking some coaxing up to speed, but they're still as round and as true as they were out of the box, and there's a lot to be said for trouble-free operation. Fast wheels aren't so fast when you're standing on the side of the road trying to remove a broken spoke.

Most of the rest of the kit is no-nonsense stuff from Bontrager too, the handlebar, stem and seatpost being reliable alloy options and the Affinity 1 saddle providing at least as much cushioning as most people will want.

And the compromises

There are no two ways about it, the 1.2's brakes are disappointing. Trek have put the Shimano Sora theme to one side here and specced nameless dual pivot callipers that lack bite. Don't get me wrong, they're consistent and they'll stop you, just not as quickly as you might like. You have to engage the brakes for a bit longer than normal or pull the levers a bit harder to get down to your desired speed.

You adjust to this within a ride or two and don't really think about it until you ride with people who have better brakes on their bikes, or jump back on to a bike with better brakes yourself. Then you're struck by the contrast.

Swapping the brake pads helps, but the bottom line is that these brakes are a compromise to make a price point and, for me, they're the weakest aspect of the entire bike.

Other compromises? There's nothing that really stands out. Trek offer a decent all-round package here.

The Trek 1.2 is a very good bike for the money. The frame and fork are sound, reliable options and the Sora shifters and mechs are better than anything previously available for this kind of cash. They're a great example of the benefits of trickle down technology.

Yes, if you pay a couple of hundred pounds more you'll get a lighter bike that leaps into life more eagerly when you up the intensity for a sprint or tough climb, but that's always the way. As it is, the Trek 1.2 is a very able road bike that'll reward your efforts with decent speed, and it's comfortable enough to ride all day long. The fact that it comes with mudguard and rack eyelets increases its versatility, so you can use it as a year-round workhorse if that's what you're after.

We'd have no hesitation recommending this bike for someone after their first proper road bike, or for anyone else looking for plenty of value.

Very good value, ideal for anyone looking for a first real road bike, with just the brakes as a low point

road.cc test report

Make and model: Trek 1.2

Size tested: 58

About the bike

State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike.

Frame 100 Series Alpha Aluminium

Fork Trek carbon road

Sizes 47, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm

Front hub Bontrager alloy

Rear hub Bontrager alloy

Rims Bontrager Tubeless Ready

Tyres Bontrager T1, 700x23c

Shifters Shimano Sora, 9 speed

Front derailleur Shimano Sora

Rear derailleur Shimano Sora

Crank FSA Vero, 50/39/30 (triple)

Cassette SRAM PG-950, 11-28, 9 speed

Pedals Nylon body w/alloy cage, toe-clip/strap

Chain KMC X9

Bontrager Affinity 1

Seatpost Bontrager Alloy, 2-bolt head, 27.2mm, 8mm offset

Handlebar Bontrager Race, VR-C, 31.8mm

Stem Bontrager Elite Blendr, w/computer & light mounts, 31.8mm, 7 degree

Headset 1-1/8" semi-cartridge bearings

Brakeset Alloy dual-pivot

Accessories

Bar tape Bontrager gel cork tape

Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike?

Trek say: "1 Series aluminium road bikes feature the same aero shaping and race-ready detail as our top-end bikes. They're strong, light, and built to fly over the pavement," [Trek, being from the US, use "pavement" to mean the surface of a road rather than a path].

Frame and fork

Tell us about the build quality and finish of the frame and fork?

It's a tried and tested frame built to a high quality. The same goes for the carbon leg/alloy steerer fork.

Tell us about the materials used in the frame and fork?

The frame is made from aluminium: what Trek call 100 Series Alpha Aluminium.

Tell us about the geometry of the frame and fork?

The 1.2 is built to Trek's H2 geometry that I've explained in the body of the review. Essentially, it's slightly more relaxed than a full-on aggressive race position, but it's still speed orientated.

How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size?

It's a little taller at the front end than a traditional low and stretched road bike.

Riding the bike

Was the bike comfortable to ride? Tell us how you felt about the ride quality.

I found it comfortable both in terms of ride position and ride quality. It's certainly a long way from being a bone shaker.

Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?

It's not mega-stiff but it's not too flexy either.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's comfort? would you recommend any changes?

I found the saddle a touch too squidgy for my taste, but I'd rather that than too firm.

In all of these marks, I'm comparing the bike to similarly priced alternatives.

The drivetrain

Wheels and tyres, your summary.

Did you enjoy riding the bike? Yes.

Would you consider buying the bike? It would certainly be on my shortlist if I was after a bike at about this price.

Would you recommend the bike to a friend? I'd recommend it should be on their shortlist too.

Anything further to say about the bike in conclusion?

Nearly all big brand bikes at this price have these features: aluminium frame, fork with carbon legs and alloy steerer, an incomplete Shimano Sora groupset (chainset and brakes being the most frequent omissions), in-house aluminium handlebar, stem and seatpost. If you simply compare spec lists, you'll see that the 1.2 comes out better than some and not quite as well as others.

However, we'd caution against making a decision based solely on a comparison of spec sheets. We've not reviewed all of the 1.2's chief rivals, but we can tell you that this bike will provide you with a very good all-round performance, the brakes being the only real low point.

Overall rating: 8 /10

About the tester

Age: 43   Height: 190cm   Weight: 75kg

I usually ride:    My best bike is:

I've been riding for: Over 20 years   I ride: Most days   I would class myself as: Expert

I regularly do the following types of riding: commuting, club rides, sportives, general fitness riding,

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Mat has been in cycling media since 1996, on titles including BikeRadar, Total Bike, Total Mountain Bike, What Mountain Bike and Mountain Biking UK, and he has been editor of 220 Triathlon and Cycling Plus. Mat has been road.cc technical editor for over a decade, testing bikes, fettling the latest kit, and trying out the most up-to-the-minute clothing. He has won his category in Ironman UK 70.3 and finished on the podium in both marathons he has run. Mat is a Cambridge graduate who did a post-grad in magazine journalism, and he is a winner of the Cycling Media Award for Specialist Online Writer. Now over 50, he's riding road and gravel bikes most days for fun and fitness rather than training for competitions.

Add new comment

13 comments.

I'm riding this bike now for over 6 years. Inexpensive when bought for  €600. Needed maintenance about 2 years ago which was about €400 (new wheelset, cassette/chain/cabling etc). I've replaced the 700x23-tyres by 700x25-tyres a long time ago without changing anything else. Works like a charm.

Great value for the money but brakes could indeed be better. Meanwhile looking to add a new bike (and use this one solely on the Tacx) with disc-brakes.

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The current Trek 1 Series bikes have plenty of clearance for fixed mudguards, even with a 25mm tyre. The 2013 1.2 had little clearance, and this was because Trek used the 2 series frame for that particular year. I'm guessing evo_playa has one of these. Agree that SKS Raceblade Long guards are great. The lack of availability is due to a redesign - SKS are developing the new version to allow for bikes with disc brakes. I gather they won't be available until this autumn at the earliest. UK distributors sold out of the old versions months ago.

Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

Tin Pony wrote: Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

The 8 speed Sora front and rear Derailleurs on my Trek are long since worn out and were replaced with Claris just before the winter kicked in. It works really smooth with no problems - even on the old Sora shifters with thumb button.

I've had the 2011 1.1 with shimano 2300 (remember that?) for just over 4 years now, and it certainly scrubs up well. Even with just 2300 and a different wheelset I've raced on it for a couple of years to some success, it certainly doesn't feel like it holds me back, which is very impressive for such a cheap machine. In fact, I like it enough to complete the change to 5700 groupset in the spring.

I can't say I ever had a problem with the brake calipers, and I can't tell the difference between the alloy calipers and the Shimano long drop calipers having swapped them out- they are certainly good enough.

However, I'm not a fan of the H2 fit with the massive head tube- I hate long head tubes and was lucky to get mine before they were introduced.

Excellent winter trainer and commuter. My 2007 Trek 1.2 is still going strong - it's had a few minor changes but still has the Sora 8 speed with thumb button - oh and a pannier rack!

It's still a lovely bike to ride and recommended first road bike.

Not a racing bike. Sit up and beg.

WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Mike T. wrote: WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Quite. I can't really understand why they'd have clearances so tight, seems unecessary. It may be that 25mm tyres would work with some mudguards already mentioned, but probably not full guards that also help keep crud off the chainset especially in winter.

Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets.

Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

As ever, SKS Raceblade Longs. Sorted.

KiwiMike wrote: craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

Tried quite a few including SKS chromeplastic ones.

edit: tracked them down, looks like instock here : http://www.tredz.co.uk/.SKS-Race-Blade-Long-Mudguard-Set_51833.htm

Fairly simple and inexpensive to swap out the substandard brake calipers.

I upgraded my Trek 1.1 to Shimano non series long drop brake calipers and the difference in braking was amazing.

Latest Comments

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Trek 1500 Road Bike

Frame Material: aluminum Frame Angles: 73.0 head, 73.8 seat Sizes: 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 60cm, 63cm Colors: Black, Gray/Blue Fork: Bontrager Race Carbon Rear Shock: Not applicable Brake Levers: Shimano 105 STI Dual Control Handlebar: Bontrager Ergo Stem: aluminum Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Aheadset Front Der: Shimano Tiagra Crankset: Bontrager Race, 30/42/52 teeth Rear Der: Shimano Ultegra GS Pedals: aluminum cage w/clips & straps Tires: 700 x 25c Bontrager Select

• USER REVIEWS

I have owned this bike for 10 years now, and put thousands of miles on it and it is still going strong! It's is ultra hardy and durable (been in a few small accidents, throw it in my car, etc.). The aluminum frame makes it very responsive to power pushes. The carbon fiber fork and seat post dampens some of the road noise and the 105 components are excellent! This bike is an incredible value and I feel like it rides just as well as bikes that are 5x its price.

The front derailleur is finicky and I have to adjust it often to be able to kick it into the highest gear. The tires that come with the bike are not good, worth an upgrade. The aluminum is nice for durability and responsiveness and for the average rider the extra weight is worth it. But for a competitive rider, they would want a lighter bike. Especially on my 63cm frame.

Ultegra Rear Derailleur is strong and smooth at shifting. The Frame is strong and lightweight. Power transfers well into each push. I've put roughly 350-380 Miles on this bike so far and I love it. It was night and day different than a cheap Amazon found road bike that I originally purchased. Like many others have said about this bike, It keeps up with the $2-3K without a problem at all. I did upgrade my saddle and tires as everyone else mentioned as well and it makes a huge difference.

The bike isn't the most comfortable at longer rides. I'm 5'11 and ride a 58CM and it always feels like my reach is a little too far extended with the seat post position. I've had to adjust my saddle forward just to feel a little less stress on my upper back/shoulders and inner elbows from extending my arms so far forward for a longer amount of time. Needless to say, 20miles or less per ride are fine but any more than that is very uncomfortable. Front Derailleur is very finicky like other reviewers mentioned.

I’ve been riding this bike for well over a decade, religiously for work and leisure and fun. I’ve been hit by many cars, I fix it every time, this bike is priceless to me. Car Window Repair

Front fork could be a little more robust. Tires puncture easily by thorns.

Fits like a glove. Very fast and stiff. You feel the power on each push transferring to the ground. Now at 2021 and after many years, I still beat lots of riders on flat or slow steep terrain. It has a 53/39 configuration that is tough on slopes. I just bought a Tiagra 11/32 cassette to add some 13% easiness on the hills we have in Chile. With that I will be faster and hope not much compact babies can pass me.

The setting of the crankset is too old and not upgradeable due to the 10s. I had to lower my cassette to tiagra. I upgrades the seat and the wheels so I am at the sweet spot. I don’t plan to change it. Aluminum kicking a lot of carbon dudes.

It looks like a classic road bike with classic race geometry. At 54cm it has perfect frame triangulation. It came with an Ultegra 6600 groupset and Ultegra brakes (but I upgraded it to 6770). It has Bontrager SSR components, seat, handlebars, forks, wheels. It has an awesome 2006 Team Discovery channel livery. The decals are actually under the clear coat and the bike looks more expensive than it is. From a distance you would mistake it for a 2007 Madone. The frame is nice and stiff but not so stiff you would knock your teeth together. It's still as good as any other mid level flat top tube road bike such a a CAAD. Its very reliable and rides fast.

Its aluminum and so you pay a weight penalty. It doesn't have the strongest components if you are a heavy rider.

The look (frame shape is almost classic), frame stiffness, Cane Creek SCR3 brakes, carbon seat post, Bontrager SSR saddle, awesome painting (Discovery Channel Team),

The rims, even if are good looking are not robust at all. The rear one was replaced due to multiple cracks around spoke holes after one year of use.

Very good acceleration, very good mid level bike because of solid 105 group, frame and accessories. Over 2000 miles on it without problems (except rear rim) but I must mention that I'm a very big rider (260 lbs). Even so the frame is calculated up to 275lbs. And that's means something!

Similar Products Used:

Cross (Cube Nature) and MTB bike (Merida Matts TFS 900).

Is this legit? The bike is a 2005 model. It has significant miles, but was well maintained and sheltered. The petals are Look-type Shimano 105. The petals show wear, but function as new. The bike has a few dings, but nothing detrimental to the expected performance. Thus the asking price of only $250. The front tire is practically new, the rear tire shows some wear, but probably good for several hundred miles. The wheels are Bontrager Select. There is one dent on the top tube, but hardly visible. No paint removed or deep scratch. You probably would not notice it unless I pointed it out.

Fit. Ultegra and 105 mix are surprisingly good quality components for an entry-level race bike.

Average weight (20 lbs). Aluminum frame makes for uncomfortable century rides. Cheap saddle and tires. Weak rims. The rear stress fractured, which is a common problem with this wheel, although was replaced under warranty at no cost to me.

Purchased the bike new in May 2007. Have since rode 10,000+ miles on it. Very comfortable (after replacing the saddle) and surprisingly fast for the weight. Overall a fantastic bike for the price. Time to upgrade so am reluctantly letting go of it.

Acceleration is great. Shifts up and down very smoothly. Maintains speed well.

Probably just me adjusting from a mountain bike to a road bike, but the handle setup is a little awkward.

First road bike purchase. Couldn't be happier. Rides very well.

Fast. Light.

Improved my 16 mile daily mountain commute by 30% over a Giant hybrid. Smooth gear transitions. Light weight for price.

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Review of my 2009 Madone 4.7

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The Madone 5- and 6-series seem to get all the press in the Trek lineup, what with their pro specs, OCLV carbon, and Project One customization program, but I'd like to report on my experience with their forgotten sibling, the Madone 4.7. I got mine last August and I now have enough experience with it to write a meaningful review. I chose the bike after riding a number of aluminum and carbon fiber frames from Trek and other manufacturers. I'm 6 feet 3 inches tall and for 11 years I had been riding a Trek 7500 hybrid bike, so I was used to a very upright position. I wanted to get something lighter and faster and decided on a road bike instead of one of the performance hybrids that are now becoming popular. I didn't think the latter would give me enough of a performance boost to be worth upgrading. The choice came down to two Madones that my LBS had in stock: a 2008 5.5 with Dura-Ace components, and the 2009 4.7 with full Ultegra. I carefully rode both of them repeatedly over the same course on a hot August afternoon last summer. The 5.5 was impressive -- very lightweight and smooth-riding, even over rough pavement. The Dura-Ace shifted like a dream -- smooth, quiet, and precise. I've never experienced derailleur performance like that! Braking was wonderful as well. The problems I encountered were a noisy drivetrain, and periodic skipping of the chain under heavy acceleration. These were unnerving in a bicycle of this level of price and quality, although I'm willing to attribute them to improper adjustment of the drivetrain, which could have easily been alleviated by the LBS mechanics. The big surprise, however, was the performance of the 4.7. It was every bit as smooth-riding as the 5.5. Shifting of the Ultegra, while not up to the level of the Dura-Ace, was fast and precise, if a little less smooth. Braking was virtually indistinguishable from that of the more expensive bike. The 4.7's drivetrain was noticeably quieter than that of the 5.5 (although it, too, made some noise that was later quieted by derailleur adjustment.) Overall, as much as I wanted to choose the "better" bike (and as much as I was impressed by the Dura-Ace components), I decided that the 5.5 just wasn't worth the extra $500. I've been riding the 4.7 since August 2009, and I'm enjoying it more and more. The ride quality is impressive -- it's a lightweight road bike with 23mm tires, but its ride is every bit as good as my Trek hybrid with its 35mm tires. The Madone is very quiet and tight, by which I mean that its operation is very precise. Steering is agile, acceleration is sprightly, and I can climb as easily with the Madone and its compact double crankset as I can with the hybrid's triple. Another surprise is the construction quality of the 4.7. I don't suppose I should be "surprised" by a well-made $2500 bike, but I've seen so much discussion of the "inferiority" of its overseas construction (it was made in Taiwan) compared to the "Made in America" quality of the 5- and 6-series Madones. The fit and finish of the 4.7 are as fine as any I've seen on any bike, including the 5.5 I tested. The bike is proving to be remarkably durable, as well -- the roads in my neighborhood are not great, and the bike is forced to contend with broken pavement, railroad crossings, and even cobblestones, and it continues to ride as smoothly and quietly as the day I brought it home, and the handling remains tight and precise. It stands up to a remarkable amount of punishment, and I'm impressed with its construction and durability. In short, my Trek Madone 4.7 has proven to be well-designed, well-made, well-equipped, beautifully-finished, and well-performing, and, while it's not the lightest Madone out there, it's certainly an excellent machine, worthy of bearing the name Madone .  

nice to see another 4.7 out there i also have a 4.7 madone and every thing you stated is true. the only thing i have changed on my bike after 2100 miles is the wheelset and got an inform RL seat measured for my butt bones. i am very impressed with the quality and performance of this bike. karl  

The stock wheels have proven to be very durable under my adverse riding conditions. My son, who has no interest in bicycles, commented on how light they were when he picked one up. If I do change anything at some point, I'll probably go for lighter wheels.  

And a big plus - the 2009 Madone 4.7 has about the nicest paint scheme of any of the stock Madones.  

Funny you should mention that -- I thought the same thing! I think it's got the snazziest paint job of ANY Madone, or in fact just about any bike out there.  

Nice review!  

I really like the 2010 Madone 4.7 paint scheme, that Carrerra Blue is a really nice color.  

Thanks! I've been thinking of writing it over the past few months. Whenever I'm on the bike, I'll think of something I want to say about it, and finally I had enough experience with it to feel that I could impart a feel for the bike to others.  

I rode a 2010 Madone 4.5, and I REALLY didn't like the color scheme! Black and red, with red tires -- I hated it! I also didn't like the triple crankset that the one I rode had -- I felt like I had to keep shifting chainrings too often. I prefer the compact double on the 4.7 that I ended up with. So there were both functional AND aesthetic reasons for me to reject the 4.5! :smilewinkgrin:  

What improvements do you notice with the new wheels?  

wheelset first thing i noticed was about a .6 mph speed increase over a set 30 mile course i ride about 4 times a week. the Bont RXL aero wheel set is also lighter than my Race wheelset and has the DT swiss hubs which seem to spin up better. also they have fewer spokes and a aero rim which seem to help with wind resistance. i can corner with the wheelset with out feeling flex from them. im 190 lb. the only draw back is that once i hit 40 + on the down hills i can feel wind comming from the side more and that tends to make me slow down. i do kinda worry about the lower spoke count but they have a 5 year warrenty on them so..thats nice. ill get my pics posted in the morning. i really think upgrading the set is a must. have the lbs measure your butt and get a inform RL saddle. its way better than the stock one and its lighter. karl  

In what way is the new saddle better? Is it more comfortable? That's something that might make a difference to me on rides of 20 miles or longer. Steve  

tenrec said: In what way is the new saddle better? Is it more comfortable? That's something that might make a difference to me on rides of 20 miles or longer. Steve Click to expand...

Great Review This is a wonderful review.:thumbsup: But, unfortunately, it is making me even more anxious as I have to wait about another month before my new 2010 4.7 comes in. Patience is a virtue, but I'd rather have my new bike. Right now, I'm riding a Schwinn Sprint I've had since '88.  

antonlove said: This is a wonderful review.:thumbsup: But, unfortunately, it is making me even more anxious as I have to wait about another month before my new 2010 4.7 comes in. Patience is a virtue, but I'd rather have my new bike. Right now, I'm riding a Schwinn Sprint I've had since '88. Click to expand...

ghost6 said: You'll be making a gigantic change in bikes! Click to expand...

antonlove said: I hope that it will lead to a GIGANTIC improvement in my performance. I've taken advantage of Chicago's beautiful weather this week and got in some saddle time. Click to expand...

ghost6 said: It will if you ride a lot! Click to expand...

antonlove said: Not sure what is considered "a lot," but I'm a recreational rider. I ride about 1500 - 2000 miles per summer. I'm hoping to get that up to about 2500 - 3000 miles. I've never started riding this early before. I usually start in June. So, I'm hoping that getting started at the top of the season will account for much of the difference. And, I'm hoping to love the Madone and ride it until my legs fall off. Test rode an '09 last August and it was an amazing ride. Click to expand...

ghost6 said: Don't be surprised if the Madone makes you want to ride more. I ride year round, about 200 miles a week. Click to expand...

antonlove said: 2000 miles/week...7 days...:crazy: I can't even count that high. But, I am hoping to ride a lot more on the Madone than I currently do. On the Schwinn, I just put on my headphones :14: and ride between 15 & 50 miles a day, 3-5 times per week. I try to shoot for about 150-200 miles per week. I'm hoping that I'll be able to go faster, ride longer, and climb better with the Madone (and a little extra effort on my part). Then, in a couple of months, I can revisit this thread and write how I love my 2010 4.7. Click to expand...

ghost6 said: I wrote two hundred per week, not two thousand! Not sure if you read that wrong. LOL. Enjoy the new bike! Click to expand...

My first "good" bike was a steel-framed Univega Supra Sport. I rode it happily for many years until I got my Trek hybrid. When I got back on the Univega, I wondered how I had ever ridden it! Clunky shifting, cramped cockpit. The hybrid was so much better! Now when I get on the hybrid after riding the Madone, I wonder: "How did I ever ride that?" What are the components on the 4.7 for 2010? Steve  

tenrec said: My first "good" bike was a steel-framed Univega Supra Sport. I rode it happily for many years until I got my Trek hybrid. When I got back on the Univega, I wondered how I had ever ridden it! Clunky shifting, cramped cockpit. The hybrid was so much better! Now when I get on the hybrid after riding the Madone, I wonder: "How did I ever ride that?" Click to expand...

tenrec said: What are the components on the 4.7 for 2010? Click to expand...

I recently bought a used 2008 Madone 4.5 frame and built it with Dura Ace 7800 group and Ksyrium SL wheels. Performance and handling is amazing, I really like the bike. I find the 27.2 seatpost's very convenient because I have several seats/seatposts that I like to swap often.  

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Trek 7.9FX review

Super-comfortable carbon mile-eater

Robert Smith

Dave Atkinson

The Trek 7.9FX is the full-carbon, money-no-object option among flat-bar road bikes. It's an expensive, lightweight, super comfortable mile eater. You can ride it in town, but riding it between towns is more fun.

Ride & handling: super comfort but strange bar

The Trek 7.9FX is a luxury grand tourer among flat bar road bikes. I just can’t stress enough how comfortable this bike is. You could commute on it, but you’re really doing it a disservice by riding it for less than 20 miles; the real quality of this bike is its mile-eating capabilities.

The surprisingly short top-tube and wide bars don’t feel like they’re set up for big ride comfort, but the compliant frame and fork (and bars) and the excellent wheels will have you wondering where the ride went.

The bars are silly-wide though and that affects the ride adversely. The Spinaci-type extensions do give a useful second handhold, but the cons outweigh the pros here. To fit them in, the bars have grown to a huge 25 inches, much too wide for a sporty bike such as this.

You can’t cut them down, and what’s worse is that even then there isn’t enough room for decent wide grips, the upshot being that the paddles of the SLR770 10-speed shifters rub on your thumbs the whole time. You need the second hand position just for some respite.

It’s not really built for load carrying, and in town it’s personable without excelling; you won’t have the fun you would on the Cinelli Hoy Hoy Rats, and you won’t feel as safe as you would on the Cube Hooper.

If Trek specced a decent carbon flat bar instead of the interesting-but-flawed aero set-up – the riding position is too upright to get much advantage anyway – then it would be a better and faster bike.

As it stands, it’s a great choice if you have a long commute and plenty of riding time at the weekends. The extra cash over most flat-bar bikes certainly buys you a better bike – whether it’s the kind of bike you need is another matter.

Frame: beautiful but sensible

The 7.9FX's frame is beautiful. The full monocoque carbon construction features an organic curved down tube and thin stays that meet at a massively oversized bottom bracket shell. The down tube and triangular top tube both feature internal cable routing.

At 3.1lb it’s a very sensible weight for an urban bike frame, though I’m sure Trek could have made it lighter. The fork is light too, but again it’s a very sensibly specced 687g Bontrager rather than a more exotic and fragile unit.

For a large bike, the top tube is quite short. The cross weave carbon finish and reserved decals complete the classy look. Mudguard, rack and two bottle bosses are included.

Equipment: good news

Other than the bars, which we've already dealt with, it’s good news. The 105/Ultegra 10-speed transmission is slick and sexy, the thumb shifters excellent when they’re not wearing holes in your thumbs.

The Shimano Deore V brakes feature cartridge pads and are a vast improvement over the cheaper units on some other round-town bikes. I expected a better saddle than the rather generic Bontrager specced, but it’s comfortable enough.

Wheels: quick & racy

The Trek has real race wheels, the same Bontrager Race units that you’ll find on the £1900 Madone 5.1 road bike. They’re well built, light, and quick. You wouldn’t want to tour on them, though, and Trek has sensibly specced Bontrager 700x28c tyres to take some of the sting out of uneven surfaces.

The wheels and tyres have proved themselves to be very capable in town, as well as coping with some rough and muddy back lane excursions. They’re not the stiffest, with some brake rub evident out of the saddle, but the speed of acceleration in traffic more than makes up for that.

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Size / 13", 16", 18", 19.5", 21", 22.5"

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Where to buy.

Specifications

• Frame Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seatstays, forged disc ready dropouts
• Wheels Alloy front hub, Shimano RM30 rear hub; Bontrager Camino, 32-hole rims w/eyelets, machined sidewalls
• Wheel Size 26"
• Tires Bontrager Connection Trail, 26x2.0"; 27 tpi
• Crank SR Suntour XCC-T102 42/34/24
• Front Derailleur Shimano C050
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio
• Shifters Shimano EF50, 8 speed
• Brakeset Tektro V w/ Shimano EF50 levers
• Handlebar Bontrager SSR, 25mm rise
• Saddle Bontrager Select Basic
• Seatpost Bontrager SSR, 20mm offset
• Stem Bontrager SSR, 25 degree
• Headset VP-A76C-TK, 1 1/8" semi-cartridge, sealed

Q: Where to buy a 2009 Trek 4300?

The 2009 Trek 4300 may be purchased directly from Trek .

Q: What size wheels does the 2009 Trek 4300 have?

The 2009 Trek 4300 has 26" wheels.

Q: What size 2009 Trek 4300 should I get?

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• Rider Notes

2009 Trek 2.1

An aluminum frame race bike with mid-range components and rim brakes. Compare the full range

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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Last updated 29 June Not listed for 2,501 days