2nd gen ram cruise control servo

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DIY Cruise Control High Idle

• January 24, 2016

DIY High Idle using the Stock Cruise Control Servo.

First off, before being able to modify the system for high idle, we must understand what we are working with.

How the cruise control servo works:

• Pin 4 (black) is permanently grounded. 
• Pin 3 (blue/red) gets 12 volts from the PCM , through the brake switch when enabled.  This is the main feed for the system, it supplies power to all 3 solenoid valves within the servo.  Suppling this pin with power closes the "Dump" valve.  Without power to this pin, nothing happens. 
• Pin 2 (green/red) gets grounded selectively by the PCM , By grounding this pin, it closes the "vent" valve, thus allowing the servo to hold vacuum.  By ungrounding the pin, it will allow vacuum out of the servo decreasing throttle.
• Pin 1 (tan/red) gets grounded selectively by the PCM .  By grounding this pin, it opens the 'vacuum' valve allowing vacuum into the servo increasing the throttle.

With our new found knowledge,  it has become obvious what needs to be done.  But there is something else that we need to remember, if we plan on having cruise control still, we must modify the system in a way that the PCM can still function correctly.

So what do we need to accomplish:

• First things first, we need to make sure be don't back feed the PCM which can cause damage, for this we'll use diodes.  Diodes only let current flow in one direction, they're the check valve of the electronics world.  By placing diodes in the circuit, it will let the PCM feed the servo as normal, but won't let us back feed it.  Perfect!
• We need to supply Pin 3 with 12 volts, I originally thought I could just turn on the stock cruise control system, however it became obvious that the PCM monitors the system closely, and can detect our fooling around and will shut the power back off, not letting us turn it back one again until the next start up.
• We need a way of normally having pin 2 open (not grounded), then ground it when the 'enable' switch is on, but then unground it when the 'lower idle' switch is pressed.
• And then lastely, we need to be able to ground pin 1, very simple, any NO (Normally Open) Switch will do.
• (Optional) When the 'Enable' Switch is off, disable both the other switches.

Keeping that in mind we'll need 4 modes:

Hold Idle Mode (High Idle Enabled):                                   Pin 3 - 12 Volts,   Pin 2 - Ground, Pin 1 - Open. 

Increase Idle Mode:                                                               Pin 3 - 12 Volts,  Pin 2 - Ground,  Pin 1 - Ground.

Decrease Idle Mode:                                                              Pin 3 - 12 Volts,  Pin 2 - Open,     Pin 1 - Open.

Stealth Mode(Makes the PCM think nothings changed):  Pin 3 - Open,      Pin 2 Open,       Pin 1 - Open.

With all that in mind, here's what I came up with:

Parts List:  (This is for my setup, if you wish to change it around, the sky is the limit.) 

• 2 X Push Button Momentary SPST NO  Green Black Red
• 1 X Latching On-Off Switch ( lots of options here )
• 1 X Mini Relay SPDT 6V DC.
• 1 X 100 ohm 1 watt Resistor
• 6 X 1N4007 Diodes
• 1 X 4 Wire Cable
• 1 X Assortment of Heat Shrink Tubing -> Great Value

Yes it is a little complex, but if you have one each of NO and NC momentary switches, and a DPST switch as your 'enable' switch, you can eliminate the resister and relay.  I did it the way I did for a couple reasons specific to my setup.

If you wish to play around with this circuit, here it is plugged into a circuit simulator, just click the switches, the LED color corresponds with the wire color, and them being on just means they are getting power.

CC High Idle Simulation

On to actually getting our hands dirty:  Before we get started, I'm making a new acronym 'RYHST' (Remember Your Heat Shrink Tubing).

First things first we need to be able to get to the cruise control servo's plug for soldering.  You can also solder this in up top where the wires run along the firewall, but I liked doing down there where it's out of the way.  To get to it I removed the drivers side battery, which also gives us more room for soldering.

After removing a little electrical tape:

Moment of no return....  Not really, Solder, Duct Tape and WD40 can fix about anything.

Now for the diodes, I personally went with the 1N4007's as I had a pack of them, they're about as generic as they come.  The only difference between these and the 1N4001-6 is the voltage rating, the larger the last number, the higher the voltage rating, for this system any of them will work.  The way I figure it, if we're going to protect the PCM with these, might as well protect it all the way to 1000 Volts!  When selecting a diode, anything over 100V should be fine.  Now for amperage rating,  each solenoid has a resistance of 44 ohms, we'll be feeding them 14.5 Volts, minus the voltage drop of the diodes which is ~.6V each, 14.5V-.6V-.6V = 13.3 Volts.  Using that info we can calculate the amp draw, 13.3V/44Ω = .3 Amps.  Now that is for a single solenoid, the diodes on pin 3 will be powering 2 solenoids (.6Amp) constantly, and all 3 (.9Amp) for a short period of time.  These Diodes are rated for continues 1Amp.  Normally I would shoot for a larger margin for error, however a higher rated diode will be physically bigger, and because we're soldering relatively thick wires straight to the diode it will have more heat dissipation abilities allowing it to handle more amperage.

• Voltage Rating - 100V minimum (overkill is good) - Check!
• Current Rating -  0.9 Amp Minimum - Check!
• Lastly, Make sure these are just a general diode, not a fancy zener diode or something - Check! 

Remember, the diodes are getting soldered to the PCM side of the plug.

Now to reach into the cab for our switches we'll need a 4 wire cable, I picked a chunk of phone cable, even had good wire colors.

Again, solder the diodes on.  Also, remember diodes are directional, so notice the orientation of all the diodes we install.  You can tell the orientation by the silver stripe, in the picture below, electrical flow can only go up, if it tries to go down the diodes will close and prevent it from doing so.

RYHST and twist the two sets of diodes together.

When soldering, once done, make sure there are no spikes that are sticking up waiting to  puncture the heat shrink tubing.  If you have a lot of issues with this, it may be a sign of using to much solder.

Now solder that back to your plug (RYHST)

Now the ground wire, just strip a portion of the insulation off, rap the new wire around it and apply solder.

There is a small issue, doing it this way we can't get heat shrink tubing on the wire.

Or maybe we can...

Use a pick (or pocket knife) to pry this red plug out

Now there are little fingers holding the pins in, again take your "pick" and pry the one up to get the pin out.

Now for pin #3 (notice that the diodes are facing the opposite direction, that is because this is a power wire where as the others were ground).

All back together

That's all ready, Time for the truck side, unfortunately I didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked, but they arn't really of use anyway, just a rats nest of wires everywhere.  Just stick to the diagram above and you'll be fine!

I'm going to be using 4 resisters instead of one... Why?

It' simple, the design requires a 6 volt relay, so we must split the 12V in half.  I measured the relays resistance and got 100 ohm's, so all we need is a 100 ohm resistor.  However we need to make sure it is rated for our needs.  we'll have half of 14 volts going through it, so 7 volts/100 ohms =  .07 amps.  .07 amps x 7 volts =  .49 watts!  So our resistor needs to be rated for at least 1/2 watt, 1 watt would be better.  Easy Peizy, however I did not have one on hand...  So my fix was to put four 470ohm 1/4watt resistors in parallel.  What does that give us?  The equivalent to one 117ohm 1watt resistor!  That'll do donkey, that'll do.

I had some clearance issues with the switches, so I had to cut the terminals short, but I was able to use some larger heat shrink tubing to protect them pretty well.

Here's the rats nest all soldered up ready to go;

Throw a little electrical tape at it and it's ready to call the dash it's home!

And Installed:

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• Dodge Durango 1st Gen (98 - 03) Forums
• 1G Dodge Durango General Talk

anyone know how to test the cruise control servo

• Add to quote

I've tried a lot of different things to fix my cruise. I would like to test the cruise control servo with a multimeter. anyone know how to do that.  

Here's the sections from the 2000 Dakota FSM (pretty much identical to the Durango), on the cruise control. One is the cruise control information, other is the wiring diagram section pertaining to it.  

Attachments

• 00AN_8H.PDF 214.4 KB Views: 332
• 8W-33 Vehicle Speed Control.pdf 310.2 KB Views: 256

its a 98 durango 5.9. Thanks for the manual brad!! That fsm is so much better then my haynes manual, there is some good info in there. I'll try some things. Is there a link to download the entire fsm somewhere?  

If you ask around you might be able to find someone that knows where you can get one for a 98. Ill try and dig up the link for the 2000 FSM I have.  

I hooked up 12 volts to the pin 3 on the cruise servo and then grounded the vent and vacuum solenoids to simulate what the pcm does and it appears the vaccum solenoid is not opening consistently so I ordered a new one of ebay for $35 shipped. Hopefully that works.  

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Genuine Dodge Cruise Control Servo

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6 Cruise Control Servos found

Dodge SERVO-Speed Control

• Other Name : SERVO Speed Control; Cruise Servo, Servo
• Avenger | 1995-2000 | Base, ES | 4 Cyl 2.0L, 6 Cyl 2.5L
• Caravan | 1997-2007 | Base, C/V, EC, LE, SE, Sport, SXT | 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.3L, 6 Cyl 3.8L
• Dakota | 2000-2004 | Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, R/T Club Cab 2WD, R/T Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD, SLT Club Cab 2WD, SLT Club Cab 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, Sport Club Cab 2WD, Sport Club Cab 4WD, Sport Quad Cab 2WD, Sport Quad Cab 4WD, Sport Regular Cab 2WD, Sport Regular Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.7L, 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Durango | 2000-2003 | Base 2WD, Base 4WD, R/T 4WD, SLT 2WD, SLT 4WD, SLT Plus 2WD, SLT Plus 4WD, Sport 2WD, Sport 4WD | 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Grand Caravan | 1997-2007 | Base, C/V, EL, ES AWD, ES FWD, EX, LE AWD, LE FWD, SE, SE AWD, SE FWD, Sport AWD, Sport FWD, SXT AWD, SXT FWD | 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.3L, 6 Cyl 3.8L
• Intrepid | 1997-2004 | Base, ES, R/T, SE | 6 Cyl 2.7L, 6 Cyl 3.2L, 6 Cyl 3.3L, 6 Cyl 3.5L
• Neon | 2003-2005 | ACR, R/T, SE, SXT | 4 Cyl 2.0L
• Ram 1500 | 1998-2003 | Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD, ST Regular Cab 2WD, ST Regular Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.7L, 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram 2500 | 1998-2003 | Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD, Regular Cab Chassis 2WD, Regular Cab Chassis 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD, ST Regular Cab 2WD, ST Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.0L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram 3500 | 1998-2003 | Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD, Regular Cab Chassis 2WD, Regular Cab Chassis 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD, ST Regular Cab 2WD, ST Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.0L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.9L

Dodge SERVO-Speed Control (ZEMCO)

• Other Name : SERVO, Speed Control
• Replaced by : 53009315
• D150 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• D250 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• D350 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Dakota | 1990-1991 | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L
• Ram Van | 1990-1993 | Ram 150 VAN, Ram 250 VAN, Ram 250 X-VAN, Ram 350 VAN, Ram 350 X-VAN | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram Wagon | 1990-1993 | Ram 150 Wagon, Ram 250 Wagon, Ram 250 X-Wagon, Ram 350 Wagon, Ram 350 X-Wagon | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ramcharger | 1990-1993 | Sport Utility 2WD, Sport Utility 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• W150 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• W250 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• W350 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L

• Other Name : SERVO, Speed Control; Cruise Servo, Servo
• Replaces : 53008012
• D150 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• D250 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• D350 | 1990-1993 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Dakota | 1990-1996 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L
• Ram 1500 | 1994-1996 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram 2500 | 1994-1996 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.0L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram 3500 | 1994-1996 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD, Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.0L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram Van | 1990-1996 | Ram 150 VAN, Ram 1500 VAN, Ram 250 VAN, Ram 250 X-VAN, Ram 2500 VAN, Ram 2500 X-VAN, Ram 350 VAN, Ram 350 X-VAN, Ram 3500 VAN, Ram 3500 X-VAN | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram Wagon | 1990-1996 | Ram 150 Wagon, Ram 1500 Wagon, Ram 250 Wagon, Ram 250 X-Wagon, Ram 2500 Wagon, Ram 2500 X-Wagon, Ram 350 Wagon, Ram 350 X-Wagon, Ram 3500 Wagon, Ram 3500 X-Wagon | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ramcharger | 1990-1993 | Sport Utility 2WD, Sport Utility 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L

• Other Name : SERVO Speed Control; Actuator, Cruise Servo, Servo
• Dakota | 2005-2007, 1997-1999 | Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Laramie Club Cab 2WD, Laramie Club Cab 4WD, Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, Laramie Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD, SLT Club Cab 2WD, SLT Club Cab 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, ST Club Cab 2WD, ST Club Cab 4WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD | 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 3.7L, 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Durango | 2004-2007, 1998-1999 | Base 2WD, Base 4WD, Limited 2WD, Limited 4WD, SLT 2WD, SLT 4WD, ST 2WD, ST 4WD, SXT 2WD, SXT 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.7L, 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Neon | 2003, 1997-2000 | 2 Door Base, 2 Door High Line, 2 Door Sport, 4 Door Base, 4 Door High Line, 4 Door Sport, ACR, R/T, SE, SXT | 4 Cyl 2.0L
• Ram 1500 | 2002-2007, 1997-1999 | Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Club Cab 6FT BOX 2WD, Club Cab 6FT BOX 4WD, Club Cab 8FT BOX 2WD, Club Cab 8FT BOX 4WD, Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, Laramie Quad Cab 4WD, Laramie Regular Cab 2WD, Laramie Regular Cab 4WD, Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 2WD, Regular Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 6FT BOX 2WD, Regular Cab 6FT BOX 4WD, Regular Cab 8FT BOX 2WD, Regular Cab 8FT BOX 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, SRT-10 Quad Cab 2WD, SRT-10 Regular Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD, ST Regular Cab 2WD, ST Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.3L, 6 Cyl 3.7L, 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram 2500 | 2003-2004, 1997-1999 | Club Cab 2WD, Club Cab 4WD, Club Cab 6FT BOX 2WD, Club Cab 6FT BOX 4WD, Club Cab 8FT BOX 2WD, Club Cab 8FT BOX 4WD, Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 8FT BOX 2WD, Regular Cab 8FT BOX 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD, ST Regular Cab 2WD, ST Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.0L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram 3500 | 2003-2004, 1997-1999 | Club Cab 8FT BOX 2WD, Club Cab 8FT BOX 4WD, Quad Cab 2WD, Quad Cab 4WD, Regular Cab 8FT BOX 2WD, Regular Cab 8FT BOX 4WD, Regular Cab Chassis 2WD, Regular Cab Chassis 4WD, SLT Quad Cab 2WD, SLT Quad Cab 4WD, SLT Regular Cab 2WD, SLT Regular Cab 4WD, ST Quad Cab 2WD, ST Quad Cab 4WD, ST Regular Cab 2WD, ST Regular Cab 4WD | 10 Cyl 8.0L, 6 Cyl 5.9L Diesel, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram Van | 1997-2003 | Ram 1500 Conversion, Ram 1500 VAN, Ram 2500 Conversion, Ram 2500 VAN, Ram 2500 X-VAN, Ram 3500 Conversion, Ram 3500 VAN, Ram 3500 X-VAN | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Ram Wagon | 1997-2002 | Ram 1500 Wagon, Ram 2500 Wagon, Ram 3500 Wagon, Ram 3500 X-Wagon | 6 Cyl 3.9L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L

Dodge Servo

• Other Name : SERVO, Speed Control; Cruise Servo
• Avenger | 1995-1996 | Base, ES | 4 Cyl 2.0L, 6 Cyl 2.5L
• Caravan | 1992-1996 | Base, C/V (Long Wheel Base VAN) AWD, C/V (Long Wheel Base VAN) FWD, C/V (Short Wheel Base VAN) AWD, C/V (Short Wheel Base VAN) FWD, LE, LE AWD, LE FWD, SE, SE AWD, SE FWD | 4 Cyl 2.4L, 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.3L, 6 Cyl 3.8L, Electric Motor
• Daytona | 1992-1993 | Base, ES, IROC, IROC R/T | 4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.5L
• Dynasty | 1992-1993 | Base, LE | 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.3L
• Grand Caravan | 1992-1996 | Base, LE AWD, LE FWD, SE AWD, SE FWD | 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.3L, 6 Cyl 3.8L
• Intrepid | 1993-1996 | Base, ES | 6 Cyl 3.3L, 6 Cyl 3.5L
• Neon | 1995-1996 | 2 Door Base, 2 Door High Line, 2 Door High Line , 2 Door Sport, 4 Door Base, 4 Door High Line, 4 Door Sport | 4 Cyl 2.0L
• Shadow | 1992-1994 | 2 Door Convertible, 2 Door Hatchback, 4 Door Hatchback, America 2 Door Hatchback, America 4 Door Hatchback, ES 2 Door Convertible, ES 2 Door Hatchback, ES 4 Door Hatchback, Highline 2 Door Convertible, Highline 2 Door Hatchback, Highline 4 Door Hatchback | 4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 3.0L
• Spirit | 1992-1995 | Base, ES, LE, R/T | 4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 3.0L
• Stratus | 1995-1996 | Base, ES | 4 Cyl 2.0L, 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 2.5L

Dodge SERVO-Spd Control

• Other Name : SERVO Speed Control
• Intrepid | 1997 | Base, ES | 6 Cyl 3.5L

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Cruises from/to Moscow, Russia

Moscow, russia cruise port.

Russia’s most prominent city, Moscow is home to a bustling population of people on the move. Moscow is also known to have more billionaires than any other city. Since the collapse of the Soviet Union, this city has been growing and evolving and you won’t be surprised to see many locals walking around in designer duds. With newfound wealth and an attitude toward exciting innovation, you will still find a lot of history in this city, which first gained prominence under the rule of Ivan the Great in the 1500s. Contact one of our cruise experts for help planning a cruise to Moscow, Russia. Featured below are a few of our favorite experiences for the cruise port of Moscow, Russia:

• Explore Red Square, the city’s center, where you’ll find Lenin’s Mausoleum and St. Basil Cathedral, and its colorful onion domes, which was built in 1555.
• The Kremlin is a fortified complex of buildings overlooking the Moskva River. Inside are churches and palaces and the Armoury, which stores an array of goodies including the famed Fabrege eggs and coronation dresses of empresses.
• Learn about the life and influences of one of Russia’s greatest authors, Leo Tolstoy, at the Tolstoy Estate Museum.
• Visit Gorky Park for a meal and to enjoy the city’s café culture. In the winter you can ice skate here or see an ice sculpture competition.
• Head to the circus. Moscow has two circuses where you can see acrobats and even bears juggle. Russian circuses are known for having a more narrative format.

Top 10 Cruises to Moscow, Russia

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• 1994-1998.0 2nd Gen Dodge 5.9L 12V Cummins
• 94-98 Non-Powertrain
• May's Cummins of the Month is now open for entries!

Replacement vacuum lines

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Ok so my cruise control and vents don't work so I know it must be the lines. But were do you get replacements. Parts stores in town don't have any tube that's the same size. Can I order factory replacements through the stealership? Or where and what have you guys got your replacement lines On Cummins forum instead of working or doing homework.  

Bump. anyone? On Cummins forum instead of working or doing homework.  

My local Napa sells it by the foot, it's very common item - 1/8" vacuum hose. I pay 12¢/ft for it.  

I found all my mine okay other than the one under the driver side batter, that hooks to the cruise servo. Since it was just broken, I got some 1/8" rubber vacuum line and slid it over the factory hard plastic line, about 2" on each side of the break. Worked perfect.  

I just got rubber hose from napa  

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