suzuki swift excessive brake pedal travel

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Brake pedal travel

Quote from Max on April 20, 2022, 4:52 pm I want to know how I can reduce brake pedal travel? There is quite a bit of free play / dead zone, before the brakes really start activating. The brakes are strong and work very well without fade, it's just that I much prefer a sharper and more reactive pedal. Brake fluid is roughly 1.3 years old. I think new pads can help a bit but from research it shouldn't make that much difference. What else can I do (preferably cheaply?). I don't get the impression there is air in the system but I am not an expert.

I want to know how I can reduce brake pedal travel? There is quite a bit of free play / dead zone, before the brakes really start activating. The brakes are strong and work very well without fade, it's just that I much prefer a sharper and more reactive pedal. Brake fluid is roughly 1.3 years old. I think new pads can help a bit but from research it shouldn't make that much difference. What else can I do (preferably cheaply?). I don't get the impression there is air in the system but I am not an expert.

Quote from Ken Foxcroft on April 21, 2022, 9:22 am I don't know but are you talking about free play before you start compressing brake fluid of after you start compressing brake fluid?

I don't know but are you talking about free play before you start compressing brake fluid of after you start compressing brake fluid?

Quote from Marc Roberts on April 21, 2022, 5:05 pm Hi Max, and a big welcome to the SSSOC ?

Hi Max, and a big welcome to the SSSOC ?

Quote from Soulchef on April 21, 2022, 5:56 pm Better brake pads? Although not very cheap solution. Usually for tracks they may use calipers with anti knock-off springs inside pistons. See video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uS6j6KDz8-A

Better brake pads? Although not very cheap solution.

Usually for tracks they may use calipers with anti knock-off springs inside pistons. See video below:

Quote from ManicMechanic on April 21, 2022, 6:43 pm If there's no air in the system and all the pins & sliders are free, then there isn't really much you can do. Braided brake flexi hoses can help as they expand a little less under pressure.

If there's no air in the system and all the pins & sliders are free, then there isn't really much you can do. Braided brake flexi hoses can help as they expand a little less under pressure.

Quote from Chari Cooray on April 29, 2022, 7:05 am I have this issue too in my swift, Its only one month old and theres a fair amount of deadzone on my brake pedal compared to my previous cars. Asked suzuki about this during the first service and they said its normal.

I have this issue too in my swift, Its only one month old and theres a fair amount of deadzone on my brake pedal compared to my previous cars. Asked suzuki about this during the first service and they said its normal.

Quote from Max on June 27, 2022, 8:36 am @nzchariboy "I have this issue too in my swift, Its only one month old and theres a fair amount of deadzone on my brake pedal compared to my previous cars. Asked suzuki about this during the first service and they said its normal." I am still looking to solve this issue. I have regreased the rear caliper slide pins. No cleaning, only added new grease. I seem to have slightly uneven wear on rear pads (left compared to right side of the car). Pedal is rock hard when engine is off, certainly after pumping once or twice. It kinda feels like the pedal is overboosted, maybe it is normal in these cars, but I would like a heavier/firmer feel.

@nzchariboy

"I have this issue too in my swift, Its only one month old and theres a fair amount of deadzone on my brake pedal compared to my previous cars. Asked suzuki about this during the first service and they said its normal."

I am still looking to solve this issue. I have regreased the rear caliper slide pins. No cleaning, only added new grease. I seem to have slightly uneven wear on rear pads (left compared to right side of the car).

Pedal is rock hard when engine is off, certainly after pumping once or twice.

It kinda feels like the pedal is overboosted, maybe it is normal in these cars, but I would like a heavier/firmer feel.

Quote from Martin Wood on June 27, 2022, 11:59 am I believe it's normal. It's common on vehicles with EBA/EBD. The electronic brake assist system takes into account the 'speed' you apply the brake pedal, so braking power at the wheels varies depending on how 'fast' or how suddenly you apply pressure on the pedal, aswell as how 'far' you depress the pedal.

I believe it's normal. It's common on vehicles with EBA/EBD. The electronic brake assist system takes into account the 'speed' you apply the brake pedal, so braking power at the wheels varies depending on how 'fast' or how suddenly you apply pressure on the pedal, aswell as how 'far' you depress the pedal.

Quote from Max on June 27, 2022, 1:29 pm @martinwood333 "I believe it's normal. It's common on vehicles with EBA/EBD. The electronic brake assist system takes into account the 'speed' you apply the brake pedal, so braking power at the wheels varies depending on how 'fast' or how suddenly you apply pressure on the pedal, aswell as how 'far' you depress the pedal." To some degree, I think there is indeed a relationship between the EBA/EBD and brake pedal feel. However, I test drove two other Swifts before buying my one, one had a higher mileage and similar brake pedal feel, maybe a tiny bit better. I drove another with significantly lower mileage, and it had a markedly better feel. However, it had more severe other issues so I did not buy that one. I think brake pad wear could be a factor here in terms of how "bitey" the brakes feel.

@martinwood333 "I believe it's normal. It's common on vehicles with EBA/EBD. The electronic brake assist system takes into account the 'speed' you apply the brake pedal, so braking power at the wheels varies depending on how 'fast' or how suddenly you apply pressure on the pedal, aswell as how 'far' you depress the pedal."

To some degree, I think there is indeed a relationship between the EBA/EBD and brake pedal feel. However, I test drove two other Swifts before buying my one, one had a higher mileage and similar brake pedal feel, maybe a tiny bit better. I drove another with significantly lower mileage, and it had a markedly better feel. However, it had more severe other issues so I did not buy that one.

I think brake pad wear could be a factor here in terms of how "bitey" the brakes feel.

Quote from Moyz on June 27, 2022, 1:36 pm New pads and discs will improve this... if these are worn down it will increase the stroke distance you have on the pedal before the pads come into contact with the discs giving you that crappy loose pedal feel. Have a good check of your pads and discs and if they are worn you might want to replace them.

New pads and discs will improve this... if these are worn down it will increase the stroke distance you have on the pedal before the pads come into contact with the discs giving you that crappy loose pedal feel. Have a good check of your pads and discs and if they are worn you might want to replace them.

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HOW TO FIX EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL

What Is Excessive Brake Pedal Travel?

Excessive brake pedal travel happens when you feel your pedal sinking rapidly while braking, or sitting lower than usual when activating your vehicle’s brakes. This can happen due to wobbly discs knocking pistons back or air in the braking system.

Performing DIY brake repair to fix excessive brake pedal travel can be a tedious task. Follow the steps below to diagnose and repair your sinking brakes.

How to Fix Excessive Brake Pedal Travel

1. Diagnose the Problem . To diagnose issues with the master cylinder, the first thing you need to do is remove the lines, install brass or plastic plugs into the outlets, and apply the brakes. What happens when you apply the brakes will tell you what issue your vehicle is having. You can continue this process of elimination by isolating each wheel.

2. Use Your Parking Brake. If you don’t typically engage your parking brake, the parking brake can be key in figuring out if your car is suffering from excessive brake pedal travel. If the parking brake doesn’t properly engage, that generally means a low pedal.

3. Bleed the Brakes. Bleeding your brakes is an important step in brake pedal travel repair and other brake issues. Use a jelly jar half full of brake fluid and a short hose to depress your brake pedal.

While depressing the pedal, rotate the star wheel to lose up the clearance. Then, go back one click when the wheel scrapes. It’s best to have a partner on hand when bleeding your brakes.

4. Bleed the Master Cylinders . After bleeding the brakes, bleeding the master cylinders is the next step. In traditional systems, you begin with the longest line in the circuit first, and go from the right rear, left rear, right front, and left the front. In diagonally split systems, the order is right rear, left front, left rear, and right front. Flush out the bleeder valves, and finally, remove the air from your master cylinder.

If you’re not sure which type of system your vehicle is or are unaware of the proper tools needed to fix excessive brake pedal travel, it’s best to bring your vehicle into Brake Works.

With two convenient locations with great weekend hours, getting proper brake maintenance is simpler than you think. Contact our team of certified specialists to schedule an appointment.

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2006 Suzuki Swift GL Brakes

I have a second hand Suzuki Swift GL 2006 for two months now. When I got the car after a few weeks I noticed the brake pedal was sinking to the floor and got the master cylinder replaced it was fine for a couple of weeks but it started happening again. Bled the brakes and was fine again for a while but after another week or two it happened again were the brakes were bled again with the same effect. I brought the car to a different mechanic and he said there was water in the brake fluid so he completely changed it and the pedal is still a bit soft but he said it could take a little time for the new fluid to go through the ABS. The brakes have always been perfect and stopped the car well, I just noticed the creeping pedal while I kept my foot on the brake at a stop sign or in traffic for example. Also if I have my foot on the brakes and stopped in neutral the idle revs decrease and return to normal when I come off the pedal. I don’t think there are any problems with the booster but what do you think of this slight rev drop when I am on the brake? I am at a loss with it and not too worried as the brakes are perfect other than that I would just like to figure it out. Could it be a faulty ABS pump?

If this car went 14 years without a brake fluid flush there’s likely problems in other brake parts. Everything that old, contaminated fluid touches is suspect. Brake fluid could have leaked from the old master into the booster, causing damage. The rubber hoses at the wheels might have gone soft, making the pedal feel soft.

I had a friend with a company supplied K -car, I think it was a Plymouth Reliant. The brakes constantly needed adjusting and it was driving him crazy because he had to use his own car when it was in the shop. The car had had 3 brake jobs in 3 years. I told him to come over on Sat. for a cookout and I would look at his rear brakes,

The drivers side looked ok, when I pulled the right drum, the shoes looked barely worn and I noticed the star adjuster had an L on th end, just like the other side. That meant that every time he backed up and stepped on the brakes, the right side was un-adjusting itself.

I never thought about that but it would make sense hence having to press the pedal more but I don’t think the handbrake is affect so thst may not be the issue. Thank you though!

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Hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed Inspection Service

How much does a hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed inspection cost, on average, the cost for a suzuki swift hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. prices may vary depending on your location..

Brakes are the most important safety components on your vehicle. Despite that importance, it’s easy to take them for granted, at least until your car begins to do strange things. Ordinarily, pressing your brake pedal should result in only the car slowing down or stopping. If you hear a hissing noise when the brake pedal is depressed, it may mean there’s something that needs to be repaired in the system.

How this system works:

On many cars, the master cylinder works in tandem with a brake booster. The brake booster is mounted to the firewall, generally in front of the steering wheel position, and the master cylinder attaches to it. The entire point of the brake booster is to make it easier to press the brake pedal and slow or stop the car.

Your brake booster works on vacuum pressure. There’s a diaphragm inside that is responsible for maintaining pressure when you’re not pressing the pedal. However, when you do press the pedal, a push rod moves forward within the booster and into the master cylinder. The side of the diaphragm facing the cabin vents to atmospheric pressure, while vacuum is maintained on the other side.

This then equalizes with pressure on the other side of the diaphragm, providing the boost needed to make pressing your brake pedal easier. The hissing noise you hear when the brake pedal is depressed could be nothing more than ordinary operation, or it could be a sign of a deeper problem. There are a couple of different potential issues here, some more severe than others.

Common reasons for this to happen:

Leaking Vacuum Line: Your brake booster is supplied with vacuum from the engine via a vacuum hose. It’s usually located near the firewall. If this hose has a leak, it can be heard within the cabin.

Leaking Brake Booster Diaphragm: The diaphragm that’s responsible for maintaining pressure within the brake booster can fail, particularly if the master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster. When this happens, you’ll hear a hissing sound when depressing the brake pedal, but the pedal itself will be much, much harder.

Damaged or Missing Foam Silence: Most cars equipped with brake boosters also have a foam silencer that’s designed to help prevent you from hearing that hissing sound. If the silencer has degraded or been damaged, you’ll hear the hissing sound.

Failing Master Cylinder: If you hear a hissing sound and suspect that the problem is the diaphragm in the booster, the actual cause is likely the master cylinder beginning to fail. Signs that the master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster include low fluid in the reservoir with no visible leaks.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your brake system, including the brake pedal operation, the brake booster and listen to the hissing sound. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to crank the car in order to verify the hissing sound, and a test drive may be necessary to duplicate the complaint. Additionally, the mechanic will inspect the brake pedal operation, the condition of the brake booster, the master cylinder, the level of fluid in your system and more.

How important is this service?

Power brakes are wonderful things, making it far easier to work a brake pedal that would otherwise require significant force to activate. While the hissing sound may be a sign of nothing more dangerous than a failed piece of foam, it could be a symptom of something much more worrisome – a damaged brake booster and a failing master cylinder. You cannot afford to take chances with your brake system. One of our professional mechanics can inspect the entire system and determine if there’s cause for concern, and what needs to be done if there is a problem.

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Suzuki Swift Troubleshooting:  Squeaky Brakes

Your Suzuki Swift ‘s braking system is designed to handle thousands of miles of braking with no intervention from you.  When its brakes begin to squeak, they are telling you that they need some attention. The most typical cause of squeaky brakes are the brake pads themselves, but there are other issues that can cause the noise as well.  The good news is that brake pads are cheap .  We’ll cover the most common reasons that a brake system would squeak directly below.

How Your Swift’s Brake System Works

At the most basic level, the brake system works by using the force that you apply to the brake pedal and converting it to hydraulic pressure (magnified by the engines vacuum at the master cylinder).  This pressure is applied to the brake pads (or shoes if it’s drum brakes) and your Swift slows down.  This pressure cause a lot of heat and the parts eventually wear down.

Suzuki Swift Squeaky Brakes:  Causes

Below you will find the most common causes of squeaky brakes in general.  

1:  Brake Pads Have Worn Down

The most common cause of squeaky brakes is going to be worn out brake pads.

Disk brakes are found at the front of all modern vehicles, including your Swift.    Depending on what year your Swift is, and what options it was equipped with, it may or may not have drum brakes in the rear.

With brake pads, they are equipped with something called a squealer . The squealer is a piece of metal that begins touching the caliper when the brakes are worn to a level that they should be replaced.  At this level, the vehicle is still safe to drive, but the brake pads should be replaced as soon as possible.  If they are not replaced, the brake pads will eventually wear down and you’ll get a metal on metal situation.  At this point, it will no longer be a squeak that you’ll hear.  Instead, it’ll be a horrible grinding sound.

Shoes are what applies pressure to the drum brakes to get them to slow down the vehicle.  With drums, once all of the metal on the shoe is worn off it’ll begin to make a metallic or grinding sound.  Bad shoes are tougher to detect before they are worn all of the way down.  

2:  Anti Rattle Clip

Most modern vehicles have anti-rattle clips.  These clips keep the brake pads from bouncing around between the caliper and the rotor when the brakes are not being pressed.  If they are damaged or installed improperly, it can cause the brakes to squeal. 

If the anti rattle clips are entirely missing, you’ll typically hear a “thunk” noise as they rattle around there.  Eventually the brakes will start to squeal without them as they glaze and wear unevenly.  There’s more on glazing below.  These clips are important.  If you have reason to believe that they are damaged or missing, you should replace them.

3:  Glazing

Glazing is a condition that happens when the brake pads, shoes, rotors, or drums get too hot for too long.  Glazing hardens the contact surface of your pads, and diminishes their overall braking performance.  Squeaking brakes are just a side effect of this condition.  If you Suzuki Swift has glazed brake pads, they need to be replaced.

Watch Brakes Get Hot: YouTube

4:  Pad Insulation

There is supposed to be a small backing shim that goes between the brake pad and the caliper.  This can become lost or damaged as time goes by.  Most vehicles have this.  If there is a problem with the shims or pad insulation, it’ll usually occur  right after a brake job.

5:  Rotors

When the brake rotors get an uneven surface, glazing, or are worn too far down they’ll cause a squeaking sound.  Your mechanic can “turn” them, which cuts a new even surface back on to them.  Otherwise, if they are worn too far, you’ll need to install new ones.

Conclusion:  Suzuki Swift Brake Squeak Diagnosis

It can be tough to nail down the exact reason why brakes squeak.  The most important safety feature on your Swift is its ability to stop.  Don’t ignore the squeak, and good luck diagnosing it.  If there is anything that you would like to add, please feel free to leave a comment below.

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2011 Grand Vitara 2.4 Brake Pedal Travel / Feel - Is it Normal?

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Hi All So, had this car a few weeks and instantly noticed that the brake pedal feels a bit strange from all other cars ive driven. The discs and pads were changed just before i bought it and im told the brake fluid was changed / bled too. So, the symptoms(difficult to describe); Engine off the pedal is nice and hard Engine on the brakes work fine and progressive however the pedal feels like there is a lot of travel (spongey). I can push the pedal down midway then up a little then down to the floor and hit what im assuming the stopper as i hear a clunk I tried on a hill to keep the same point on the brakes for a little while to see if they creep off which it didnt. Pumping it doesnt seem to do much I have taken it back to the dealer where i got it who have said theres nothing wrong, its normal. They said its the same as another GV they had. So my question is what does your pedal feel like? I can video if it helps.  

It should not sink to the stop on successive applications of pedal..  

Chrisjb330 said: I can push the pedal down midway then up a little then down to the floor and hit what im assuming the stopper as i hear a clunk Click to expand...

I can push the pedal down midway then up a little then down to the floor and hit what im assuming the stopper as i hear a clunk Click to expand...

Tried all the procedures to check in the book and all seems normal apart from the pedal travel seems to go really far to the floor. I went to a trusted mechanic this morning who says if with the engine off you pump the brake to get it hard. Release for a few seconds and try again it should be in the same position or slightly less. Exactly as the above post says. The pedal does exactly this, so it must be a normal characteristic of the car. Video below, I do this test at the end. Engine off around 2.05  

Chrisjb330 said: Tried all the procedures to check in the book and all seems normal apart from the pedal travel seems to go really far to the floor. I went to a trusted mechanic this morning who says if with the engine off you pump the brake to get it hard. Release for a few seconds and try again it should be in the same position or slightly less. Exactly as the above post says. The pedal does exactly this, so it must be a normal characteristic of the car. Video below, I do this test at the end. Engine off around 2.05 Click to expand...

Did you try bleeding the ABS Module using a Scan tool (This only supports by high end scan tool AFAIK). there could be Air in the ABS unit and that might cause the sponginess.  

Funnily enough I have a Bluetooth scan tool, I'll have to look and see if it's possible with it.  

Tried this and can confirm it does not go further down. Also checked and there is no abs bleed on the tool I have. Is there another way to bleed the abs?  

Ok, that's good news at least. Not possible without a scan tool designed to do it. I will look up the bleed procedure tomorrow when I'm on the pc and post it for you, it's just as easy to bleed the whole system, this will then prove it's in the abs, would be unlikely, but it is possible. Your other option us go find a shingle road and make the abs work by very hard braking several times, its primitive but it will cycle the solenoids and pump and move any air around so you can get it out with a normal bleed. As a comparison both my GV's have rock solid pedals, so if your pedal is solid at rest, and spongy when driving its more like it's got sticky caliper pins, which is a distinct possibility. Easy to check, wheel off, remove each pin and make sure it's free to move in the caliper, grease and reinstall. Do all 4 wheels, one pin out of the 8 sticking could account for this, also check pads are wearing evenly.  

Chrisjb330 said: The system has been bled by Suzuki when they changed the fluid. That's the sort of procedure I was thinking however the brakes haven't fully bedded in. Ideally I need some mud or a wet slippery surface Click to expand...

Chrisjb330 said: The discs and pads were changed just before i bought it and im told the brake fluid was changed / bled too. Click to expand...

What you need is a BI-Directional scanner, most DIY will not wish to lay out the cash nor take the time to learn how to use it, just clearing service codes will not fix any issues triggered by the vehicles' computers...  

Yes, hard to justify that cost. Few hundred £ at most really.  

I have the foxwell nt 630 pro, works great on the zukes, the elite is slightly different but does the abs and engine stuff, about $160 USD on aliexpress  

Hi @Chrisjb330 what happened with the scanner hunt? saw couple of threads related to Pedal sink which is related to HCU pump in ABS unit (I think Suzuki used ATE MK60 ABS Unit). hope yours not the same issue.  

90% of the time its air trapped in a solenoid, this is why you need to ensure the abs unit is properly bled. If the pump is faulty, that will not create pedal sink as the abs unit is a closed system  

I've ordered a Foxwell NT630 Elite. Going to wait and see what the pedal is like once they bed in more. All tests say it's fine, although there could be air in the abs. The car is going back to Suzuki Monday as the condenser is missing a lot of fins so hopefully they will replace. I will ask if they tried that when they bled the brakes.  

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