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Why This Balkan Capital Is the Buzziest City in Europe Right Now

Sofia, Bulgaria ’s capital, has certainly seen a lot of change over its 7,000-year history. It takes a casual stroll along its yellow stone-paved downtown dotted with ancient Roman ruins and elaborate examples of Byzantine, Ottoman, and 20th-century European architecture to recognize that its roots run deep.

However, its modern soul also shines through at every corner. Sofia is now a major tech and start-up hub in Southeast Europe, drawing international attention and talent. It is also home to one of Europe’s most prominent movie production studios, Nu Boyana, where many of Hollywood’s recent blockbusters have been partially produced. Sofia’s vibrant cultural life boasts dozens of galleries and museums, including the National Gallery, where this summer, two-time Oscar-winning actress and photographer Jessica Lange opened a retrospective. So too are there many food, music, literary, and performance art festivals, including the Sofia International Movie Festival, which this year presented 170 movies from over 50 countries, and the International A to Jazz Fest, attended by over 50,000 jazz enthusiasts yearly.

“Sofia [...] is a city that beautifully blends history and modernity,” Maria Bakalova , the Bulgarian Oscar-nominated actress, tells Vogue. “It’s one of Europe’s oldest capitals, yet it continues to evolve in such dynamic and modern ways. Every time I return, I’m reminded of how vibrant and cosmopolitan it has become while still retaining its unique charm with cozy streets and aristocratic old buildings. It’s quite eclectic and beautiful.” While Bakalova grew up in Burgas, a town 230 miles east of Sofia on the Black Sea coast, she moved to Sofia to pursue her studies at the National Academy for Theatre and Film Arts and lived there for years. She still likes to spend time around the National Palace of Culture Park, or catch a sunset from Kopitoto, an area in Vitosha Mountain boasting panoramic views of the Sofia valley.

This duality that Bakalova references makes the city—which sits at a cultural crossroads—so unique. It has rawness and unpretentiousness that are a rarity in a world where many cities have been transforming into their TikTok and Instagram-perfect versions. Sofia is still very much a diamond in the rough, a city with an old soul in the process of building its modern identity, blending Western values and aesthetics while not letting go of its Balkan traditions. Unlike many European capitals where the same international logos overtake the glossy storefronts of prime downtown real estate, Sofia is still unapologetically itself.

Stroll through the Women’s Market (or Zhenski Pazar) downtown, the oldest open-air market in the city, established in 1878, and you could end up filling your bags with everything from fresh produce and homemade jams to counterfeit bags and t-shirts. But walk 15 minutes to Saborna Street, and you could be shopping for a wool coat at Max Mara and cashmere sweaters at Zegna. And in case you get tired of the city’s soundtrack, reset your senses in lush Borisova Gradina, a 3,300-acre park with tree-lined paved trails right in downtown.

Here, find our tips for making the most of your stay in Bulgaria’s buzzy capital.

Where to Stay

In 2026, Nobu Hotel will open its first Bulgarian outpost in Sofia’s historic Bankers Building, a 1912 architectural gem at the heart of downtown—but until then, travelers have many options for chic stays within the city.

Nearby is the boutique Sense Hotel , a member of Design Hotels, where Bakalova also likes to stay. Minimalism reigns in each of the hotel’s 71 rooms, but guests can also find peaceful moments in the property's serene spa, complete with a sauna and a sparkling swimming pool located in a dimly lit space made for total relaxation. Several suites with private balconies and Vitosha mountain views are also available. But the real star of the show is the ninth-floor rooftop bar and restaurant, which treats patrons to handcrafted concoctions, jaw-dropping floor-to-ceiling city views, and DJ-curated tracks.

One of the newest and most impressive additions to Sofia’s hospitality scene is Junó Hotel , a Design Hotels member, sitting on a quiet street a short walk from the National Theater. Its modern facade, a striking combination of light stone and black window shutters over floor-to-ceiling windows, is anchored by a massive wooden door that lets guests in a contemporary lobby clad in custom artwork and sleek furnishings. The 34 rooms and penthouse suite feature elevated furniture pieces by Zanotta and Space Copenhagen, Bang & Olufsen soundbars, and soothing natural tones. The hotel’s all-day restaurant, Cookó Kitchen, occupies its ground floor and stands out with its creative farm-to-table menu of East Mediterranean and Bulgarian flavors interpreted for modern palates. Start with feta cream with honey, za’atar, and olives before moving to Yufka, where thin sheets of pasta-like bread are prepared with a hearty tomato sauce with mushrooms, nuts, and labneh cheese.

For those who value a prime location, InterContinental, an IHG Hotel , sits on Parliament Square and offers spectacular views of one of Sofia's signature landmarks, the St. Alexandar Nevski Cathedral. The five-star hotel welcomes guests to spacious rooms with king-sized beds, plush linens, and oversized windows. But for a real treat, upgrade to one of the top-floor suites with private balconies and picture-perfect city vistas. A stay here includes delicious a la carte and buffet breakfast, best enjoyed on the hotel’s terrace opposite Bulgaria’s former parliament building.

If you prefer something away from the hustle and bustle of downtown, book a room at Maison Sofia Hotel—MGallery , the Accor-owned 99-key hotel tucked in the Lozenetz residential neighborhood. A lush, quaint garden and an indoor pool are a serene addition to the property's elegantly furnished rooms and suites.

Where to Eat and Drink

“Sofia’s dining scene has changed a lot in the past few years, and you are starting to see more and more restaurants offering modern flavors and dishes created by Bulgarian chefs,” Atanas Balkanski , who helms one of Sofia’s most talked-about new restaurants, tells me. Balkanski is a 31-year-old chef who honed his skills in Western Europe and San Francisco before returning to Bulgaria. This year, he opened Aria in a sleek glass building on a quiet street in downtown Sofia. The restaurant, which features indoor and outdoor seating in a serene courtyard, focuses on seasonal fare prepared with local ingredients. The idea, Balkanski explained, was to offer a modern, elevated version of Bulgarian cuisine while still keeping it approachable and delicious (the chicken paté with plum marmalade is so far a crowd-pleaser, he notes). The menu, which features plenty of seafood options, is complemented by a long list of wines curated by award-winning Bulgarian sommelier Zhivko Enchev, who highlights the country’s rich winemaking traditions with many unique-to-Bulgaria grape varieties.

Cosmos is another award-winning favorite that serves contemporary Bulgarian cuisine. The culinary concept revolves around the reinterpretation of classic Bulgarian recipes—recently, a velvety smooth zucchini cream soup with sheep cheese and risotto with sea bass, fennel, and lovage were part of the restaurant’s daily menu, which I enjoyed for lunch with a glass of homemade lemonade. The dining room has a rustic element to it, with plenty of wooden accents and exposed brick walls.

Komat is another modern eatery that has been racking accolades and awards since its 2023 opening. There, your taste buds are treated to artfully prepared (and presented) local ingredients in a minimalist dining room, housed in a striking building covered in rusting steel panels.

If you follow a plant-based diet, head to Soul Kitchen , an eclectic, homey eatery inside a two-story home. Here, you can order from a list of seasonal vegan and raw dishes, including green salad with grilled oyster mushrooms, flaxseed tacos with artichoke, saffron risotto with snow peas and broccoli, and gluten-free pancakes.

Sabale is a hip breakfast/brunch spot with an espresso bar and an industrial chic vibe, serving classics like avocado toast, scrambled eggs with chives, and sourdough bread from an open kitchen.

Sofia's cocktail scene is on the rise, too. The Cocktail Bar , a charming spot with interiors reminiscent of a French bistro and wrought iron outdoor seating in a small park, has a reputation for serving some of the capital’s most creative concoctions blended by talented mixologists. In the chic V.Bar , light bites and tapas complement a robust cocktail list of artfully prepared and delicious cocktails, almost all highlighting a Bulgarian ingredient—a local spirit or an aromatic herb. And if you’re looking for a casual spot with a cozy vibe and an extensive beer and whiskey selection, Eddie Sicoy is your best bet. Besides being a popular hang-out spot for English-speaking travelers and locals, it also doubles as a venue for pop-up exhibitions and events.

Where to Shop

“Sofia is trapped between getting glossy and still being dodgy and rough, which is what I like about it. It’s a combination between Athens, Istanbul, and Berlin,” Bulgarian-born Berlin-based fashion and lifestyle expert Julian Daynov says, highlighting that the city’s creative crowd has expanded in recent years.

The city is indeed a creative hub for independent artists, jewelry designers, and fashion designers, and its streets are lined with small ateliers, galleries, and art spaces. While Vitosha Boulevard, the capital’s main commercial destination, seems to attract the most tourists, we suggest you explore lesser-known areas for a more authentic window into the city’s shopping offerings.

Shishman Street, in the heart of downtown, stretches less than 10 city blocks, but it is home to a large concentration of creative businesses. Testa Gallery displays jewelry and objets d’art by Bulgarian and international artists and designers, while next door is No8 Design Shop , a concept store for exquisite homeware goods and gifts from all over Europe. I always find time for The Beautecary , an elegant marketplace for upscale, clean beauty brands.

And if you must have your Balenciaga or Celine fix, stop by ALL U RE , an iconic concept store with a top-notch selection of clothing and accessories. And if that’s not enough, Brunello Cucinelli and Emporio Armani’s stores are across the street.

But where I’ve spent the most hours roaming is Kvartal , Sofia’s arts district, located between Maria Luiza Boulevard, Slivnitza, Knyaz Aleksandar Dondukov Boulevard, and Rakosvki Street, with dozens of art studios, independent stores of all kind, bars, and coffee shops.

Viktor Pavlov , a jewelry designer and Sofia native with degrees in drawing and metalwork works out of a small atelier on Veslets Street. His jewelry, inspired by the natural world, has a delicate ruggedness that he infuses with contemporary aesthetics for a modern look.

Further down the street is Art.E , a cozy boutique for handmade porcelain and ceramic goods, and steps away is Sito Studio , which is dedicated to printmaking with a store and educational space for workshops and classes. And book lovers should not miss Mahala Bookstore , with a superb selection of hard-to-find English-language books and magazines.

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Where Kamala Harris Stands on the Issues: Abortion, Immigration and More

She wants to protect the right to abortion nationally. Here’s what else to know about her positions.

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By Maggie Astor

• Published July 21, 2024 Updated Aug. 24, 2024

With Vice President Kamala Harris having replaced President Biden on the Democratic ticket, her stances on key issues will be scrutinized by both parties and the nation’s voters.

She has a long record in politics: as district attorney of San Francisco, as attorney general of California, as a senator, as a presidential candidate and as vice president.

Here is an overview of where she stands.

Ms. Harris supports legislation that would protect the right to abortion nationally, as Roe v. Wade did before it was overturned in 2022, in Dobbs v. Jackson Women’s Health Organization.

After the Dobbs ruling, she became central to the Biden campaign’s efforts to keep the spotlight on abortion, given that Mr. Biden — with his personal discomfort with abortion and his support for restrictions earlier in his career — was a flawed messenger. In March, she made what was believed to be the first official visit to an abortion clinic by a president or vice president.

She consistently supported abortion rights during her time in the Senate, including cosponsoring legislation that would have banned common state-level restrictions, like requiring doctors to perform specific tests or have hospital admitting privileges in order to provide abortions.

As a presidential candidate in 2019, she argued that states with a history of restricting abortion rights in violation of Roe should be subject to what is known as pre-clearance for new abortion laws — those laws would have to be federally approved before they could take effect. That proposal is not viable now that the Supreme Court has overturned Roe.

Climate change

Ms. Harris has supported the Biden administration’s climate efforts , including legislation that provided hundreds of billions of dollars in tax credits and rebates for renewable energy and electric vehicles.

“It is clear the clock is not just ticking, it is banging,” she said in a speech last year , referring to increasingly severe and frequent disasters spurred by climate change. “And that is why, one year ago, President Biden and I made the largest climate investment in America’s history.”

During her 2020 presidential campaign, she emphasized the need for environmental justice , a framework that calls for policies to address the adverse effects that climate change has on poor communities and people of color. She has emphasized that as vice president as well.

In 2019, Ms. Harris, then a senator, and Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, Democrat of New York, introduced legislation that would have evaluated environmental rules and laws by how they affected low-income communities. It would have also established an independent Office of Climate and Environmental Justice Accountability and created a “senior adviser on climate justice” within several federal agencies. In 2020, Ms. Harris introduced a more sweeping version of the bill. None of the legislation was passed.

Ms. Harris was tasked with leading the Biden administration’s efforts to secure voting rights legislation, a job she asked for . The legislation — which went through several iterations but was ultimately blocked in the Senate — would have countered voting restrictions in Republican-led states, limited gerrymandering and regulated campaign finance more strictly.

This year, she met with voting rights advocates and described a strategy that included creating a task force on threats to election workers and challenging state voting restrictions in court.

She has condemned former President Donald J. Trump’s efforts to overturn the 2020 election results. In a speech in 2022 marking the anniversary of the Jan. 6, 2021, attack on the Capitol, she said that day had showed “what our nation would look like if the forces who seek to dismantle our democracy are successful.” She added, “What was at stake then, and now, is the right to have our future decided the way the Constitution prescribes it: by we the people, all the people.”

Economic policy

In campaign events this year, Ms. Harris has promoted the Biden administration’s economic policies, including the infrastructure bill that Mr. Biden signed, funding for small businesses, a provision in the Inflation Reduction Act that capped the cost of insulin for people on Medicare and student debt forgiveness.

She indicated at an event in May that the administration’s policies to combat climate change would also bring economic benefits by creating jobs in the renewable energy industry. At another event , she promoted more than $100 million in Energy Department grants for auto parts manufacturers to pivot to electric vehicles, which she said would “help to keep our auto supply chains here in America.”

As a senator, she introduced legislation that would have provided a tax credit of up to $6,000 for middle- and low-income families, a proposal she emphasized during her presidential campaign as a way to address income inequality.

Immigration

One of Ms. Harris’s mandates as vice president has been to address the root causes of migration from Latin America, like poverty and violence in migrants’ home countries. Last year, she announced $950 million in pledges from private companies to support Central American communities. Similar commitments made previously totaled about $3 billion.

In 2021, she visited the U.S.-Mexico border and said : “This issue cannot be reduced to a political issue. We’re talking about children, we’re talking about families, we are talking about suffering.”

More recently, she backed a bipartisan border security deal that Mr. Biden endorsed but Mr. Trump, by urging Republican lawmakers to kill it , effectively torpedoed. The legislation would have closed the border if crossings reached a set threshold, and it would have funded thousands of new border security agents and asylum officers. “We are very clear, and I think most Americans are clear, that we have a broken immigration system and we need to fix it,” Ms. Harris said in March .

Israel and Gaza

Ms. Harris called in March for an “immediate cease-fire” in Gaza and described the situation there as a “humanitarian catastrophe.” She said that “the threat Hamas poses to the people of Israel must be eliminated” but also that “too many innocent Palestinians have been killed.”

In an interview later that month , she emphasized her opposition to an Israeli invasion of Rafah, the city in southern Gaza to which more than a million people had fled. “I have studied the maps,” she said. “There’s nowhere for those folks to go, and we’re looking at about 1.5 million people in Rafah who are there because they were told to go there, most of them.”

She has said on multiple occasions that she supports a two-state solution.

Racial justice

Racial justice was a theme of Ms. Harris’s presidential campaign. In a memorable debate exchange in 2019 , she denounced Mr. Biden’s past work with segregationist senators and opposition to school busing mandates.

She has called for ending mandatory minimum sentences, cash bail and the death penalty, which disproportionately affect people of color.

Amid the protests that followed the police killing of George Floyd in 2020, she was one of the senators who introduced the Justice in Policing Act, which would have made it easier to prosecute police officers, created a national registry of police misconduct and required officers to complete training on racial profiling. It was not passed.

Her record as a prosecutor also came into play during her presidential campaign. Critics noted that as attorney general of California, she had generally avoided stepping in to investigate police killings.

Maggie Astor covers politics for The New York Times, focusing on breaking news, policies, campaigns and how underrepresented or marginalized groups are affected by political systems. More about Maggie Astor

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