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August 2024.

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13 things to know before visiting Italy

May 16, 2023 • 9 min read

Make the most of your trip to Italy with our top insider tips © Westend61 / Getty Images

With an unmatched abundance of Unesco World Heritage sites, diverse scenery ranging from some of Europe’s highest peaks to the turquoise waters of the southern coasts, and an endless list of regional cuisines to taste, planning an Italian adventure can easily get overwhelming.

Add a variety of dialects – both spoken and hand-gestured – and hard-to-decipher etiquette rules into the mix and attempting to dive into the local culture can quickly turn into feeling like a fish out of water.

Returning to Italy after years of living abroad has made many of the odd rules that dictate social interactions more evident to me – even I, as an Italian, find myself often questioning why things work as they do. While clear answers are not always available, I’ve done my best to compile a list of rules, customs and habits that will make every visitor's time in my homeland a little easier. Here's everything you need to know before visiting Italy.

1. Italians all go on holiday at the same time (more or less)

For some reason, we Italians have collectively decided that August is the best month to go on holiday. It's understandable – with temperatures regularly surpassing 35C (95F), expecting people to do anything other than lie on the beach is simply too far-fetched.

During the weeks surrounding the holiday of Ferragosto , on August 15, Italians migrate to the coast en masse, leaving humid cities half empty. Many businesses in the country’s interior close, prices rise significantly, and crowds are the norm on popular beaches. If you choose to travel in the high season , make sure to book your accommodation well in advance.

2. Italy was built for driving, but it’s not the only option

While the public transport infrastructure is cheap and mostly reliable , Italy remains devoted to driving. Recent stats have shown that the country is second in Europe after tiny Luxemburg when it comes to cars per capita – nearly 40 million vehicles are currently roaming around the country with 59 million inhabitants.

Part of this has to do with the mountainous, uneven geography of the peninsula. Trains cannot reach the more remote corners of the country and the low population of rural areas does not justify frequent bus services. There is also a cultural aspect to Italy’s love for driving – huge investments were put toward motorways in the post-war era, which made mobility increasingly car-centric and Italians more used to relying on cars.

Does this mean that a car is essential for visiting Italy? No. Renting a car will give you the most freedom, but trains and buses connect most urban centers and are a great, sustainable way to visit cities, medieval hamlets and coastal towns without worrying about traffic rules and limiting your intake of vino and spritzes. Train tickets can be bought online at Trenitalia or Italo  – tickets for slow, regional trains can be purchased on the spot without price increases, while high-speed train tickets are much cheaper when bought in advance.

3. If you do rent a car, be aware there's a shortage of vehicles

Among the many inconveniences the pandemic has brought upon travelers is a lack of available cars for hire. As the world went into lockdown and traveling became impossible, many rental companies sold their vehicles. Meanwhile, people got increasingly used to avoiding public transport and the demand for rental cars has grown.

During peak holiday season, prices skyrocket and in popular destinations, cars for hire can simply run out. If you are planning a road trip , make sure to book your car well in advance.

4. Card payments are now widely accepted, but carrying some cash is a good idea

For a long time, Italy has been a cash-first country. But in 2022, a new law introduced a fine for businesses not accepting card payments. Technically, paying by card should now be possible everywhere, although you can still encounter merchants frowning upon small electronic transfers or shops where the POS machine is mysteriously not working – having some cash on you is a wise move.

Apart from such (rare) exceptions, card payments will not be an issue. Most major networks are widely accepted, American Express is the only card provider that might be rejected by smaller businesses.

5. Regional pride is worth embracing

Moving abroad or to a different city has become increasingly common for members of the younger generations, but a sense of pride for one’s place of birth continues to pervade the consciousness of many Italians. You won’t have to wait long before meeting someone who will exalt the food, traditions, and landmarks they grew up surrounded by, often at the expense of neighboring regions or cities.

Such an intense form of pride – known in Italian as campanilismo  – translates into endless opportunities to taste carefully guarded flavors, participate in events rooted in the local folklore, and experience a different facet of the country each time you come back.

6. Learn the language of sarcasm

On the one hand there is local pride, on the other is the art of breaking down barriers by making fun of ourselves. Italian humor has long been reliant on a self-inflicted form of sarcasm and the exaggeration of those very stereotypes you’d think we’d rather forget about.

Self-deprecation is only one shade of it, however. When jokes are directed at others, they can be ferocious. In regions such as Veneto or Tuscany, blasphemy is considered part of the local lingo, while Romans are unchallenged when it comes to sharp irony. To the uninitiated, such wit may feel like crossing a line, but it’s usually well meant.

7. Imitate hand gestures 🤌 at your own risk

Italians are globally known for talking with their hands, but they don’t particularly enjoy having their body language mocked by foreigners who are not aware of the meaning behind physical communication. Hand gesturing does not happen randomly; while a burst of anger or excitement may get people moving more intensely than usual, each signal has a specific meaning that – like in any language – should be learned before being inserted into a conversation.

Shaking your hand while pinching your fingers, for instance, is typically used in combination with a puzzled look to mean “What are you talking about?” or “What are you doing?” with a tone that can range from the confused to the aggressive. Use at your own risk.

8. Don’t be overwhelmed by restaurant menus

Enter any osteria and you’ll find yourself deciphering a list of dishes split into categories such as antipasti (starters), primi (first courses), secondi (second courses), contorni (side dishes), dolci (desserts), vini (wines), amari (digestives). Yes, a full Italian meal is composed of all these elements.

You are not expected, however, to order a dish from each section of the menu every time you sit down. It’s perfectly fine to order a pasta course followed by a dessert, or a starter and a second course. Mix and match as you like.

9. Tipping is not expected unless the service is especially personalized

Leaving a tip is always a nice gesture, but you should not feel obliged to do so in every bar or restaurant you enter. Most people in the service industry do not rely on tips to get by. However, when someone is particularly attentive to your needs and actively trying to improve your experience, it's a welcome gesture to thank them with a tip.

Note that you will be charged for “coperto” in many restaurants – a cover charge of around 2€ per person. This is neither a scam nor a tip that goes to the staff. It is simply a flat fee that Italians are used to paying when sitting down at a table.

10. When it comes to eating and drinking, there is a time for everything

Everyone has heard of the “no cappuccino past 11 AM” rule – you should know that this is not the only dieting constraint Italian culture is attempting to force upon you. Milky coffee is considered a breakfast-only drink, just like an Aperol Spritz is considered a pre-dinner cocktail and limoncello is considered a post-prandial liqueur. Lunch happens around 1pm and dinner hardly ever starts before 8pm.

Such habits are often described as commandments set in stone, but know that the emphasis on their importance is often exaggerated. Not following the etiquette might be looked down upon at a formal gathering, but in cities where tourists are a permanent presence, exiting the boundaries of social conventions won't raise many eyebrows.

11. Drinking outside is allowed – and fun

While there are some municipalities that restrict drinking alcohol on the street in certain areas, this is not an issue in most of the country. On the contrary, many public squares fill up during summer evenings with people having a beer or a glass of wine in the open-air.

12. Cheek kisses can cause some awkward situations

Imagine meeting up with your Italian friends for an aperitivo and finding yourself lip-to-lip with your new acquaintance’s spouse – this is only one of the embarrassing situations you could fall prey to by underestimating the cheek kissing etiquette.

Italians often greet each other by giving two light cheek kisses. This happens almost exclusively in informal situations with people you’ve already met in the past – you are not expected to kiss your Italian language teacher or someone you’re being introduced to for the first time. People will typically start on the left side, although this is not a strict rule. If unsure, let the other person take the lead and go with the flow. Not comfortable in having your personal space invaded? A simple handshake is perfectly fine.

13. Political polarization is on the rise

Contrasting political views have always played a central role in the animated conversations of Italians, both in the private sphere and in the media. In recent years, however, polarization has become more evident. Part of this has to do with political conversations moving onto social media platforms where nuances and context fade away, favoring stark opinions over constructive debates. But this is far from the only reason.

A 2022 study showed that Italy is the only European nation where salaries have decreased compared to 30 years ago and conflicting opinions on issues related to migration flows, energy supplies, housing and workers’ rights have contributed to splitting the public opinion. In 2022, Italy elected Giorgia Meloni as its Prime Minister – the first woman to hold power and the first far-right leader since Fascist-era dictator Benito Mussolini. The ability to read the room is a useful skill to have if you choose to talk politics.

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Tips & Advice

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With homemade pasta, every type of pizza, wines aplenty and cheese (lots of it), Italy is a whole world of as–mamma-would’ve-made-it yum.

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Warnings and insurance

This travel advice also covers Vatican City.

Volcanic activity

Due to volcanic activity, local authorities have increased the alert levels for both Etna and Stromboli in the south of Italy. In the event of a volcanic eruption, follow the advice of local authorities. See more information on volcanoes .

Airspace can be affected during eruptions. If you are travelling to or from Catania, during this period of heightened activity, check with your travel provider or with  Catania airport .

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Turin city guide: Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in Italy’s unsung northern star

How to spend a weekend in this overlooked northern italian hotspot, article bookmarked.

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D espite its grand boulevards, cobbled streets and ancient ruins, Turin - the capital of the Piedmont region of northern Italy - is still relatively under the radar. While comparisons are often made with Vienna and Paris, Turin lacks the self-consciousness (and the hordes of tourists) of both its feted foreign counterparts and its neighbour, Milan. Known as the home of carmaker Fiat and football club Juventus , Turin has a strong industrial heritage. But now its thriving arts scene, burgeoning craft-beer sector and impressive vegan offering are making it a cultural hub.

Get walking

The city centre is navigable by foot, so spend at least half a day wandering the handsome Napoleonic boulevards, colonnades (covered streets), and grand squares, enjoying a coffee or two along the way. From there, take a stroll by the river Po to the tree-filled Parco del Valentino and botanical gardens.

Revel in the relics

Don’t miss one of history’s most studied (and contested) artefacts, the Turin Shroud – that piece of linen cloth thought to bear the imprint of Jesus’s body. Decide for yourself at the Duomo di Torino. The Museo Egizio boasts a staggering 26,000 Egyptian artefacts and counting. Entrance is €15.

Football and Fiat

To the north of the city you’ll find Juventus’s Allianz stadium , which is worth the short bus ride or metro for the memorabilia-packed museum alone (tickets €15). To the south of the city, Lingotto , the former Fiat factory complete with race track on its roof, can be easily reached via the M1 metro.

If you’re visiting in the winter and are into snow sports, Turin is incredibly close to a number of ski resorts – close enough to make going for the day feasible. Bardonecchia, Sauze d’Oulx and Sestriere are all within an hour and a half’s drive of the city.

Where to stay

For a room with a view, try the modern and stylish Turin Palace Hotel . Rooms are bright, airy and comfortable and the hotel’s rooftop terrace is just as impressive – it’s the perfect spot to watch the sun set over the Alps. Doubles from €162, room only.

Otherwise, the affordable four-star NH Torino Santo Stefano is located just minutes from the Roman quarter and Duomo. Here, comfort is matched with historic charm – the views from the rooftop terrace are spectacular. Doubles from €135, room-only.

Where to eat

Turin reaps the benefits of being hugged by the Alps. For a masterclass in local produce, check out the buzzing Cianci Piola Caffe on the edge of the Roman Quarter, where you’ll be guided through the budget-friendly menu by knowledgeable staff. Expect to pay approximately €30 per person for a selection of starters, pasta, mains and dessert.

Head to Sapori on via San Tommaso, a deli run by a charismatic husband-and-wife duo who’ve been making pasta by hand for almost 30 years (one of their students went on to open Burro e Salvia in Shoreditch). You can eat in or take away, but we recommend working your way through the pasta counter in situ, and watch while it’s deftly crafted in front of you.

While food traditions abound - unsurprisingly Turin is home to the biannual Salone del Gusto slow food festival - the city has evolved into something of a vegan hotspot in recent years. Today, there are more than 30 dedicated vegan outlets across the city, but for fresh and flavoursome vegan burgers with Instagrammable rainbow-coloured buns made in-house, try Flower Burger (burger, chips and drinks approximately €15).

Where to drink

When in northern Italy, one must indulge in an aperitivo – essentially happy hour with nibbles. In the name of tradition, head to Caffè Torino on the corner of Piazza San Carlo, which has been serving Negronis since 1903. For a contemporary spin, La Drogheria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto regularly draws in the crowds.

For a fantastic selection of local craft beers and organic wines, check out Birreria Don Giovanni on the edge of the Roman quarter, while just around the corner, wine and coffee shop Caffè-Vini Emilio Ranzini is the type of place you’ll go for one and end up staying the whole night. Neighbourhood hotspot Orro Birra also has a great selection of craft beers on tap.

No trip to Turin is complete without trying Bicerin, an ancient Piedmontese drink which combines espresso, chocolate and whole milk with finesse. The cosy yet grand Caffè al Bicerin on the Piazza della Consolata has been serving this heady concoction, whisked to order, since 1763. Nietzsche and Puccini were fans. The dark oak counters and marble tables you see today are originals, but as the tables are few expect to drink elbow to elbow – it’s all part of the charm.

Where to shop

Turin is a city for chocolate-lovers, which is hardly surprising when you consider it’s home to gianduja, a delectable chocolate and hazelnut spread which dates back to the 18th century. Try it at Guido Gobino Bottega , an ornate shop and tasting room just moments from Piazza San Carlo where you can buy everything from the finest artisan chocolate by the slab to individual, foil-wrapped treats.

On the same street, fine food emporium Eataly is a mecca for locals and tourists alike. It’s filled floor-to-ceiling with the finest Piedmontese and Italian ingredients, but you can also tuck into its produce in a sit-down capacity – the streetside terrace is always bustling. The original Eataly is housed in a former Vermouth factory in the Lingotto district, easily accessible from the centre by tram.

For local specialities, the ancient Quadilatero Romano (Roman Quarter) is filled with quaint shops selling everything from pasta, cheese and wine to local crafts and textiles.

Architectural highlight

Turin isn’t short of eye-pleasing architecture but the impressive 18th-century Basilica di Superga , perched atop a verdant hillside overlooking Turin, is something to behold. This magnificent Baroque church boasts panoramic views of Turin and beyond – you’ll just need to climb the 131 steps to the top of the domed roof to appreciate them. Entrance €5 to see the royal tombs, €3 to climb the dome.

Nuts and bolts

What currency do i need, what language do they speak, should i tip.

Service charge is generally added to bills, so in many cases there’s no need to tip. Otherwise, 10-15 per cent is adequate.

What’s the time difference?

An hour ahead of the UK.

What’s the average flight time from the UK?

Approximately one hour and 50 minutes.

Public transport

Much of central Turin is easily navigable by foot, but trams, buses and a metro system are also on hand.

Boasting a distinctive 167-metre tower and aluminium spire, it’s impossible to miss the Mole Antonelliana. Take the nifty panoramic lift to observe Turin’s grand boulevards and squares in all their glory.

Insider tip

Spend a morning exploring the Porta Palazzo food market, where you’ll find hundreds of stalls selling the finest Piedmontese produce. Open 7am to 2pm weekdays, other days vary.

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Guide to Milan

Milan, the capital of the Lombardy region at the northern edge of Italy, is synonymous with haute couture as the home of many of Italy’s most desirable designer brands (think Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and so many more). Its stylish reputation goes back centuries—in the Middle Ages, Lombardy’s position at the base of Europe made it a convenient location for trade, and the flow of money and cross-cultural ideas entering the city inspired incredible artistic innovation. The city was the home of Leonardo da Vinci, whose ideas on art and science revolutionized the world. Today, Milan’s grand architecture still draws visitors from around the world; the Duomo, which took six centuries to complete, is a jaw-dropping wonder that must be seen to be believed.

Today, Milan is the country’s financial center, as well as a cultural hub. Modern skyscrapers share the skyline with neoclassical marble buildings like the La Scala opera house and the medieval Castello Sforzesco. In keeping with their history, Milanese love creativity and innovation in all fields, and some of the city’s most celebrated restaurants are decidedly avant-garde. Not surprisingly, it’s a shopper’s paradise, with an incredible selection of vintage shops that collect truly unforgettable designer pieces from years past. From the historic city center to artsy Brera to hip young Navigli, there’s a place in Milan for everyone.

Getting Around

Milan is home to Italy’s second largest international airport after Rome, Malpensa (MXP). You can find direct flights here from most major cities on the East Coast, as well as easy connections from most European hubs. The Malpensa Express train will take you from the airport to Milano Centrale station in about an hour, and it’s easily accessed from within the international terminal. From Centrale, it’s easy to grab a taxi at the stand outside to get to your hotel. 

Milan’s public transportation system, known as ATM, covers the whole city and comprises a metro, buses, and adorable old-fashioned trams. (Don’t get confused if you see signs marked “ATM” around the city—they’re not bank machines!) Metro stops are conveniently located near most of the major tourist attractions, so it’s an easy way to make the most of the city if you have limited time to see the sights. You can buy one-way or unlimited-ride tickets in metro stations or at newsstands. Be sure to hang on to your ticket once you’ve entered a metro station, because you’ll need to swipe it again to exit. Uber is also available and is widely used here, though prices may be higher than what you’re used to at home.

   Marchesi 1824

This hidden gem in Milan’s oldest shopping center is a charming place for breakfast, with dainty pastries and an elegant coffee service. The mint-green interior is chic and ladylike—fitting, since it’s owned by Prada! Duck up a set of stairs next to the Prada boutique to get to the second-floor café, where you can look out arched windows onto the shoppers below.

   Pasticceria Martesana

For more than 50 years, this bakery has been making some of the best panettones in Milan using a Santoro family recipe, along with other gorgeous pastries, chocolates, and sweets like baci di dama cookies. Their award-winning panettones are available here year-round, so if you’ve got the craving but it’s not the holiday season yet, you’re in luck!

   Pavè

Photo Credit: Pavè

This café and bakery is a wonderful spot for a quick breakfast on the go, with top-notch espresso and gorgeously layered brioche (as croissants are called in Northern Italy) stuffed with apricot jam, chocolate, or ham and cheese.

   10 Corso Como

Photo Credit: 10 Corso Como

For the perfect encapsulation of Milan’s fashionable spirit, this upscale concept store features beautiful clothes, gorgeous homewares, and stunning art installations—and delicious food! The plant-filled in-store café is a great spot for lunch, weekend brunch, or just a shopping break for espresso and a fabulous tiramisu.

   Ristorante a Santa Lucia

If you find yourself craving some veggies in between all those risottos and pastas during your stay in Milano, as Giada often does, you’ll find heaven at the antipasto bar at this comfortably old-school restaurant that feels virtually unchanged since its opening in 1929. The walls are lined with black-and-white portraits of film stars from days gone by, the waiters all wear impeccable white, and, yes, the pastas are great, too.

   Bice

For the absolute best risotto alla milanese in the city, look no further than this nearly 100-year-old institution. Bice is a perennial favorite among locals who take their food seriously, and after one bite, you’ll agree. Tucked on a fashionable street in the city’s historic center, it’s the perfect dinner after a day of shopping, sightseeing, or both. 

   Bacaro Montenapoleone

Milan is known for its lush courtyards hidden behind nondescript, imposing palazzo doorways, a secret side of the city most don’t get to see. Peek behind the door at this hidden gem of a restaurant tucked away on a high-end shopping street next to a shop named, coincidentally, Giada! (No connection, we swear.) In the covered courtyard, enjoy beautiful seasonal vegetable dishes and pastas like handmade tagliatelle and lasagne. When Giada was there in spring, a highlight was a raw artichoke salad with walnuts.

   Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone

Opened nearly 70 years ago as a simple salumi shop, this local institution has evolved over the years into an elegant, comfortable restaurant for traditional Milanese dishes. Come for lunch in the peaceful courtyard that feels like an extension of its neighbor, the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi, to enjoy saffron-laced risotto alla Milanese and pastas like cappelletti with tomato and mozzarella.

   Al Porto

This traditional seafood restaurant has been serving specialties from Versilia, on the Tuscan coast, for more than 50 years. It’s located at the end of the Darsena reservoir in the Navigli neighborhood and overlooks a stunning garden in spring and summer. Stroll the area after your meal to soak in one of Milan’s prettiest neighborhoods.

   Da Giacomo

For a taste of the south of Italy when you’re in the north, this seafood-centric restaurant is a must. It’s one of Giada’s absolute favorites in a city full of fabulous restaurants, and she makes time to eat here whenever she’s in Milan. The zuppa di pesce has the most flavorful broth we’ve tasted, and pasta favorites like spaghetti con vongole and gnocchi were all perfection. The tiramisu is excellent, too!

   Giacomo Bistrot

Photo Credit: Giacomo Bistrot

Around the corner from Da Giacomo is its more casual little sister, with a lively atmosphere that feels like a little bit of Paris in Milan. Decked out like an old-fashioned club with plush red banquettes and walls of books, the bistro serves more meat-focused dishes. If you want a steak, this is the place to go!

   La Briciola

Photo Credit: La Briciola

At night, the dining room of this romantic local favorite is lit up with twinkling lights among faux trees and floral garlands, giving the magical feeling of dining under the stars even in the worst weather. Be sure to try one of the many carpaccios, as well as traditional Milanese dishes like risotto and cutlet alla Milanese.

   La Libera

In the artsy Brera district in the city’s historic center, this brewery-turned-trattoria serves delicious traditional dishes like risotto al salto, a crispy rice dish Giada’s mom used to make, and housemade buckwheat pasta with veal ragu. It’s worth a visit alone for the irresistibly thin Sicilian crackers they serve before the meal!

   Trattoria del Nuovo Macello

Photo Credit: Trattoria del Nuovo Macello

If you’re looking for Milanese classics, this rustic trattoria offers a 50-Euro set menu of the city’s greatest hits, covering typical antipasti, saffron-tinted risotto, and a perfectly crisp cutlet alla Milanese, plus coffee and dessert!

   Trattoria la Pesa 1902

Photo Credit: Trattoria la Pesa 1902

For traditional Milanese dishes like mondeghili (fried meatballs), cutlet alla Milanese, and the rustic tripe stew called busecca, you can’t do better than this comfortable 120-year-old neighborhood trattoria.

   Altatto Bistrot

Photo Credit: Altatto Bistrot

On Tuesday and Wednesday nights, enthusiastic locals flood into this sleek, spare restaurant in a former bakery to taste the latest creations from three young women chefs (Sara Nicolosi, Cinzia De Lauri and Giulia Scialanga) who are doing amazing things with seasonal vegetables. Their all-vegetarian, sometimes vegan tasting menus might include tempura-fried local mushrooms or grilled artichokes, and always start with the best housemade breads.

   Bon Wei

Photo Credit: Bon Wei

Milan may be Italy’s most multicultural city, and its international restaurants can be just as exciting as the Italian classics we know and love. A favorite among locals is Bon Wei, which serves traditional Chinese fine dining in a sleek, elegant room. Enjoy beautifully composed dishes with fresh seafood, beautiful dumplings, and housemade noodles and bask in the cosmopolitan glamour of Milan.

   Ratanà

In the cool, modern Isola neighborhood, this restaurant serves contemporary takes on Milanese classics. Try one of their variations on risotto alla milanese, or a fresh cavatelli with spring peas and mint. Walk off the meal with a stroll around the area to marvel at the wild architecture, including the greenery-covered Bosco Verticale (“Vertical Forest”).

   Cittamani

Photo Credit: Cittamani

In a warm, earthy room, chef Ritu Dalmia is combining Italian sensibilities with traditional Indian dishes at this exciting restaurant. Her flavors are always incredible, and the Italian wine list to accompany them is thrilling in its own right! It’s a unique experience you could only have in Milan.

   Seta

Photo Credit: Seta

Milan has many Michelin stars, and two of them belong to this fine-dining experience in the Mandarin Oriental hotel led by chef Antonio Guida. Choose one of the tasting menus for a tour of his creative imagination, whether you go with the menu dedicated to crustaceans or the one inspired by the design house Fornasetti. If risotto is on the menu, you’re in for a real treat!

   Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia

With two Michelin stars, this 60-year-old institution offering impeccably updated classics via tasting menu feels fresh and modern. Run by the daughter of the original owners, Aimo and Nadia, the dining room been updated to a clean, contemporary space that lets dishes like ossobuco-stuffed tortelli, tomatoes with wild strawberries, and cuttlefish ravioli shine.

   Caffe Camparino

The vibe at this historic bar feels right out of an old movie—the bartenders all wear white suits and bowties, and the back bar is lined with ruby-red bottles of Campari, Milan’s most famous invention. It’s virtually unchanged since the 1860s, when the Milano-Torino cocktail, a predecessor of the negroni, was invented here.

   Ceresio 7

Photo Credit: Ceresio 7

On the rooftop of the designer brand Dsquared2’s headquarters, this unique spot with amazing views of the city features two sparkling swimming pools, a world-class cocktail bar, and an airy restaurant for indoor or outdoor dining.

   White Rabbit

To get into this fun speakeasy, you’ll need to submit a request on their website to receive the password, then ring the bell by an anonymous shop window when the light is on. Inside, you’ll find live music, a throwback Prohibition-era vibe, and well-made, creative cocktails.

   Peck

Photo Credit: Peck

Inside this gourmet food and wine shop is a hidden secret: some of the best gelato in Milan! Even though it’s just a few blocks from the Duomo, there are no lines of tourists waiting to get their scoops here—just you and the other locals who know this is the place to go for fresh, seasonal flavors like . While you’re here, browse the deli cases and amazing selection of cheese and salumi, too.

   Cerdini & Quenardel

If there’s a better combination in the world than Champagne and gelato, we haven’t heard it. Find them both at this uniquely charming shop which has been in business since 1906. Be sure to try one of the fruit-flavored sorbettos made with their own Champagne, as well as the decadently ultra-dark chocolate gelato.

   Ciacco Gelato

You may wait a while for your gelato here, but we promise it’s worth it. This ultra-modern shop uses creative techniques and ingredients to continually surprise and delight their many fans—they recently launched a barrel-aged gelato. Fresh fruit comes from the region around Parma, where they also have a shop, and is hand-selected for the absolute best flavor.

   Corso Garibaldi

Stroll this narrow street near the Brera neighborhood to get a laid-back taste of Milan’s culture without the big-city hustle and bustle. Local designers’ boutiques, trattorias, and art galleries line the half-mile stretch where you’ll also catch a glimpse of ancient architecture in the Basilica di San Simpliciano, which has existed here in various forms since the 4th century.

   Duomo di Milano

One of the most iconic buildings in Italy, this 600-year-old masterpiece of gothic architecture is made of a rare pink-streaked marble found only in the Alps. Its more than 3,000 statues, intricate arches, and pointed spires are impossible to miss if you’re walking through Milan’s historic city center. You can tour the interior for a small fee, but to really appreciate this layer cake of a building, pay the extra fee to climb the 250 steps up to the rooftop.

   Fornasetti Flagship Store

Design lovers can’t miss a stop at the flagship of this iconic Italian brand founded by Piero Fornasetti in the 1940s. His housewares are instantly recognizable for their surrealist humor, collage-style imagery, and the black-and-white face of opera singer Lina Cavalieri that decorates everything from vases to cabinets. The shop is part archival museum, part laboratory for what’s new and next, and a total joy to visit. You’re sure to find a unique piece here to join your collection.

   Galleria Rossana Orlandi

Milan’s style pedigree goes way beyond fashion, featuring furniture, art, and housewares that are truly breathtaking in their originality. See the best of what’s new at this impeccably curated gallery based in a former tie factory with a stunning grape vine-covered courtyard. The space is by appointment only; email ahead to book your visit.

   Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Italy’s first shopping mall, this stunning building with mosaic tiling and a vaulted cast iron and glass roof is a Milan icon. Nicknamed il salotto di Milano (Milan’s sitting room), it’s been a meeting place for Milanese for nearly 150 years. It’s home to the first Prada store ever, which opened in 1913, along with boutiques for basically every high-end Italian designer. Dining options range from casual cafés to Michelin-starred restaurants, making sure there’s something for every taste.

   Guided Tour With Elizabeth Jones

For a true insider food experience, reach out to our friend Elizabeth to join one of her guided walking tours that cover everything from pizza to natural wines. An American writer based in Milan, she can also build you a tour tailored to your interests in Milan and Northern Italy and offers custom travel design throughout Italy.

   Guido Gobino

This outpost of the famous artisan chocolate shop from Turin has plenty of incredible souvenirs to choose from, but the real draw is something you must experience there: a cup of their extra-dark hot chocolate. So thick and rich you can eat it with a spoon, this decadent drink is made with ground chocolate instead of just cocoa powder, making it a decadent treat.

   Museo Bagatti Valsecchi

Photo Credit: Museo Bagatti Valsecchi

This incredible historic house-turned-museum offers a unique chance to travel through time. Inhabited until the 1970s, its remarkable collection includes Renaissance art, furniture, suits of armor, and relics of everyday life. Use the free audio tour, narrated by a member of the Valsecchi family, to appreciate the layers of Milanese life hiding within its walls (literally! Hidden bathrooms were added to the building when indoor plumbing was invented). Make sure to stay for lunch at Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone in the building’s courtyard.

   Milano Centrale Station

Photo Credit: Milano Centrale Station

If you’re traveling through Italy by train, you’ll end up at this grand 1934 building that’s the second-largest station in the country, after Rome. Its imposing fascist-era architecture of marble, glass, and steel is impressive, but the real draw is the Bistrot Centrale, a large marketplace with food stalls serving panini, pastries, and other on-the-go goodies plus locally produced foods that make great souvenirs.

   Seletti

Photo Credit: Seletti

The flagship location of this funky shop stocks incredible surrealist homewares that blur the line between art and utility. Browsing here is like walking through a modern art gallery—except you can also bring the art home, like gold-plated espresso cups or ancient art-inspired placemats, for a uniquely Milan souvenir.

   Tearose

Photo Credit: Tearose

This gorgeous concept shop combines flowers, clothing, accessories, and fragrances for a retail experience unlike any other. It’s always fun to browse the hand-picked selection of clothes from local designers and international brands surrounded by pretty floral arrangements and home décor items. They also plan stunning private events, if you’re lucky enough to be throwing a party in Milan!

   The Last Supper at Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this Renaissance-era Dominican convent and church is famous as the home of one of Leonardo da Vinci’s most famous paintings, located in the refectory just to the left of the church entrance. The fragile artwork is managed by a separate museum authority, so be sure to buy your tickets ahead of time to ensure you can get in. And don’t skip a visit to the rest of the church, which has more stunning frescoes from other artists of the period.

   Villa Necchi Campiglio

The Necchi family built this home near the Duomo in 1935 as their status as wealthy industrialists grew, resulting in a gorgeous mix of modern rationalist and fashionable Louis XV style. They also built the first private swimming pool in Milan, surrounded by gorgeous gardens you can stroll today. House of Gucci fans should tour the interior to see the rooms that played Gucci family residences, but any visitor will love the peaceful garden for a break from the bustle of the city.

   Casa Baglioni

Photo Credit: Casa Baglioni

In the stylish Brera district, this midcentury-inspired boutique hotel in a 1913 townhouse will have you feeling like a Milanese local circa 1960. Wood paneling, sleek brass, and muted navy accents all make the rooms cool and comfortable, while the hotel is also now the home of the beloved Michelin-starred restaurant Sadler.

   Grand Hotel et de Milan

Photo Credit: Grand Hotel et de Milan

Stay in old-fashioned luxury at this 150-year-old five-star hotel in the Montenapoleone neighborhood, close to many of the city’s historic sights. The high-ceilinged rooms are chic and comfortable, decorated with antiques and lush wallpaper and tapestries to feel extra indulgent. It’s also steps away from a Metro station, making it extra convenient for getting around town. 

   Portrait Milano

Photo Credit: Portrait Milano

The latest opening from the Ferragamo family, this new boutique hotel is as stylish as you could hope. Built in a converted former seminary from the 16th century, it has a timeless modern feeling with crisp linens, Carrera marble bathrooms, and bold accent colors. Sip a morning cappuccino or evening aperitivo on the piazza, and take a dip in the pool in the ancient vaults. Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel, stop in for a cocktail or dessert outside to enjoy the atmosphere.

   Principe di Savoia

Photo Credit: Principe di Savoia

For some classic Milan charm, the city’s long-standing premier luxury hotel doesn’t disappoint. With jewel-toned velvet upholstery, damask wallpapers, and mahogany furnishings, the rooms exude a bygone glamour that feels like a step back in time. Don’t miss breakfast in the sunny restaurant overlooking the lush gardens.

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Italian Immigrants Gave Rise to Cleveland’s Iconic Guardians of Traffic

The scalpellini, a group of elite italian sculptors who date back to ancient rome, were recruited to carve what would become cleveland, ohio's most talked about landmarks: the guardians of traffic..

By Pamela Dorazio Dean, The Italian American Museum of Cleveland

Cleveland’s Major League Baseball team completed their last season as the Indians on October 3, 2021.

The club is now called the Cleveland Guardians, and the new name pays homage to four, two-sided sculptures known as the “Guardians of Traffic,” which stand prominently on the city’s Hope Memorial Bridge.

Once known as the Lorain-Carnegie Bridge, it connects the two major roads over the Cuyahoga River.  Discussions to construct a bridge that would prominently connect Cleveland’s East and West sides began as early as 1911, when Cleveland was a rapidly growing city  In fact, at that time, Cleveland was the sixth largest city in the nation with a population of more than 560,000 people, many of whom were immigrants.

Among the thousands of immigrants who came to Cleveland, about 25,000 were Italians from southern Italy and Sicily. Many took jobs as general laborers or factory workers.  One group of Italian immigrants, however, possessed specialized skills in working with stone and were brought to Cleveland for that reason. These men were called scalpellini .

Make a Pledge and join Italian Sons and Daughters of America today. 

Giuseppe Carabelli (1850-1911) is credited for bringing many scalpellini to Cleveland to work for him.  Carabelli was a stone sculptor from Porto Ceresio, Italy who arrived in Cleveland in the 1880s and opened Lake View Granite and Monument Works across from Lake View Cemetery (where John D. Rockefeller is buried).  In need of a home near their workplace, many scalpellini settled in the neighborhood located close to the shop.  This corridor would eventually become known as Cleveland’s Little Italy enclave.

The scalpellini not only found work at Carabelli’s company, they also found jobs with the city and at a number of other firms specializing in stone cutting and carving.  One firm, The Ohio Cut Stone Co., had a location in Amherst, Ohio, where there was a quarry, and a second location in Little Italy on Random Road.  According to Little Italy historian Anthony Gambatese, The Ohio Cut Stone Co. purposely set up shop in Little Italy because they knew there were many scalpellini in the neighborhood that could provide the skilled work they needed.

The building of the Lorain-Carnegie Bridge was delayed for many years due to World War I and a lack of funding.  Construction began shortly after a 1927 bond issue was approved for $8 million to cover the cost (adjusted for inflation, that’s $127 million in today’s money). Walker and Weeks, a local but very prominent architectural firm, was hired to work with the city engineer in designing the bridge to bring an artistic touch to this utilitarian structure.

The architects introduced a number of ideas to create a more artistic appearance for the bridge.  One idea was to include four massive pylons which would contain some sort of sculpture.  Architect Frank Walker conceptualized the sculpture and called them the Guardians of Traffic.  They were designed with an Art Deco flair, described as “classicism with a Modernistic style,” and are said to resemble the Greek god Hermes.  Each Guardian holds a different mode of transportation in his hands (a hay rack, a covered wagon, a stage coach, a passenger automobile, and four types of trucks), representing the evolution of transportation.

Henry Hering (1874-1947), of New York, was contracted as the lead sculptor of the Guardians.  At the time, he was widely respected for his ability to create spectacular architectural sculptures.  The Ohio Cut Stone Co. was hired to obtain the stone and carry out Hering’s carving instructions. Berea sandstone, a locally available and durable stone, would be used for the Guardians. The stone was likely quarried at The Ohio Cut Stone Co.’s location in Amherst and then shipped, by railroad, to the Little Italy location to be carved, after which it would take its final journey to the bridge for placement.

The Lorain-Carnegie Bridge finally opened to traffic in 1932.  People were in awe of the 43-foot-tall Guardians on the bridge.  But not much was said about who created those great works of art, except for noting the architects, Walker and Weeks, and lead sculptor Henry Hering.  Not until the 1983 renovation of the bridge and the Guardians did the crew, who actually worked on them, begin to get some recognition.

Upon reopening of the Lorain-Carnegie Bridge, it was renamed the Hope Memorial Bridge in honor of William Henry Hope, father of the famous comedian and native Clevelander Bob Hope. William was on the crew that helped to create the Guardians.  This led to the names of other crew members coming out.  The crew was nearly all immigrants, including some Irish, German, and British.  But a large number were scalpellini who immigrated to Cleveland from Oratino, Campobasso, Italy.

Oratino has a tradition of stone carving going back to ancient times.  One can find beautiful examples of the work of the scalpellini throughout the paese .  According to www.siviaggia.it , there was a time when many Oratinese families owned a quarry in which father and son would work together to assure that the skills would be passed down through the generations.  The website also claims that the Oratinese scalpellini paved Budapest.

Some of the Oratinese scalpellini who were part of the crew that created the Guardians include: Antonio, Carmen and Gennaro Chiocchio; Anthony and Frank Cipullo; and Anthony, Celestino, Fiorangelo, Gennaro, and Pasquale Fatica. Other members included Louis Cirelli, Sam Gentile, Charles Iafelice, Frank Leonardi, Domenicantonio Mastrangelo, Cosimo Palante, Celestino and Loreto Petti, Peter Salvatore, and Albert and Henry Tirabasso.

In a 1983 article that appeared in The Plain Dealer , a local Cleveland newspaper, Henry Chiocchio, nephew of Gennaro, talked about visiting The Ohio Cut Stone Co. with his dad and uncle at night after supper to see the work done on the Guardians that day.  Henry said, “I was very impressed.  We Italian people are very proud of what we do, especially in working with our hands.”

Come spring of 2022 when the Cleveland Guardians begin to play their first season, Italian Americans can look at the team logo with pride knowing that the skill and artistry that helped to create those towering, unique and iconic statues came from Italian immigrants.

While the scalpellini may not have received the recognition they deserved when the Guardians were first created, they left a lasting legacy that shines a positive light on the contributions Italian immigrants have made not only to Cleveland, but to the whole country.

(Photography courtesy of  Cleveland’s Western Reserve Historical Society. Do not repurpose, republish or reprint without express permission from WRHS.)

Pamela Dorazio Dean, The Italian American Museum of Cleveland

• January 19, 2023

Image Credit

Domenicantonio Mastrangelo meticulously carves away at the Guardians of Traffic in Cleveland's Little Italy neighborhood. (Credit: Western Reserve Historical Society

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Resources: For more information regarding Brazil’s documentation requirements, please click on the link below or contact the consulate in the child’s country of residence.

• Cartilha de Viagem de Menores ao Exterior to view a guide released by Brazilian authorities.
• To view a standard authorization form please visit: https://www.cnj.jus.br/programas-e-acoes/viagem-ao-exterior

Requirements for passengers under the age of 18:

• Passengers who are traveling with only one of the parents/legal guardians must have a notarized letter with authorization from the other parent/legal guardian
• A passenger traveling alone or accompanied by someone other than the parents/legal guardians must have a notarized letter with authorization from both parents/legal guardians
• Judicial authorization will be required for travel of Brazilian citizens under 18 if accompanied by an adult that is not a Brazilian citizen and resides abroad, provided (1) such adult is not the parent/legal guardian of the minor or (2) the minor, though born in Brazil, does not have Brazilian citizenship

Exemptions: Authorization is not required for minors traveling with both parents or non-Brazilian citizens that were not born in Brazil.

Minors under age 14 traveling to or from Canada have the option of sitting next to or near a parent, guardian or tutor. Delta makes every reasonable effort to seat children in close proximity to caregivers according to age group:

• Minors under 5: Adjacent seating.
• Minors aged 5–11: Same-row seating with no more than one seat of separation.
• Minors aged 12 or 13: Seated with no more than one row of separation. 

Accommodations may require seat reassignment, and a Delta agent will reseat eligible passengers in these circumstances based on availability. Accommodation may include requesting other passengers to voluntarily change seats at the time of boarding and before takeoff, and as such, cannot be guaranteed. Note: While promoted system-wide, these arrangements pertain only to minors flying to or from Canada.

If an adjusted seating arrangement results in relocation to a different cabin class, passengers will be reimbursed for the difference if in a lower class of service or asked to provide supplementary payment if a higher class of service is selected, depending on the difference in service level for that cabin.

Dominican Republic

All unaccompanied minors of Italian citizenship under the age of 14 that are traveling internationally are required to have the following documents:

• Individual passport (according to the Ministerial Circular n. 400/A/2012/23.1.3 attached)
• “Dichiarazione di accompagno” duly authorized by the Police Authority (“Questura”).

The current regulation applies to: 

Italian citizens under 14 years traveling as an Unaccompanied Minor (Requirement)

• In addition to a passport, the passenger must have a notarized affidavit from the parent(s) or legal guardian(s) of the child confirming that the minor has permission to travel as an unaccompanied minor.
• This document must be signed by the parent(s) or by the legal guardian(s) and authenticated by the Police Headquarters (Questura) and include the name of the airline to which the minor is entrusted.

Exemptions:

• Authorization is not required for minors traveling with parents.
• Authorization is not required for non-Italian citizens.
• Authorization is not required for UMNR 14 years and older.

The “Dichiarazione di Accompagno” forms are to be prepared and held by the unaccompanied minor, in the unaccompanied minor envelope with their passport. Find more information on traveling as an unaccompanied minor .

Copies of the declaration are to be retained by the origination station for 5 Years. Click on the recommended authorization form for Passengers to follow in Italian.

Customers under 18 traveling to Ireland without an accompanying parent or guardian need the following documents for entry, as outlined on Ireland’s Immigration website :

• A signed letter from the parent or guardian authorizing the child’s travel, including contact details
• A copy of the parent or guardian’s passport or driver’s license, showing their picture and details 
• A birth or adoption certificate, guardianship papers or a death certificate if a parent is deceased 

For non-residents (in addition to the above): 

• The full address of where the child will be staying 
• The contact details of who will be hosting the child

Upon arrival, immigration officials may verify the relationship between the child and the adult(s) meeting them at the airport before allowing entry into the Republic of Ireland. 

South Africa

The amended regulation applies to minor travel if:, 1. both parents are traveling with the minor – (requirement).

Where the minor is a South African national, in addition to a valid passport, parents need an original stamped or sealed birth certificate or certified copy.

Where the minor is a foreign national,a valid passport is all that is required.  See additional details under the “Exemptions” header below. 2. One parent is traveling with a minor – (Requirement)

Where the minor is a South African national, in addition to a valid passport, the parent needs an original stamped or sealed birth certificate or certified copy and one of the applicable items below:

• Parental consent letter from the non-traveling parent listed in the birth certificate — authorizing minor to enter or depart from South Africa.  To be valid, the parent consent letter must not be older than six (6) months from the date presented and must include contact details and a copy of the passport of the non-traveling parent.
• For a sole parent or legal guardian: a court order that indicates full parental responsibilities/rights or legal guardianship
• Where applicable, a death certificate of the other parent who is registered as the parent on the birth certificate

Where the minor is a foreign national, a valid passport is all that is required. See additional details under the “Exemptions” header below.

3. Persons traveling with a minor that is a South African national who is not their biological child – (Requirement) Where the minor is a South African national, the following documents are required:

• Valid passport for minor
• Certified copy of the birth certificate
• Parental consent letter from the parents or legal guardians of the minor confirming that minor has permission to travel with non-related person
• Copies of the identity documents or passports of the parents or legal guardian of the minor
• Contact details of the parents or legal guardian of the minor
• A certified copy of the death certificates of the parents who are registered as the parents on the birth certificate
• A certified copy of the adoption order granting full parental responsibilities / rights or legal guardianship
• A court order that indicates full parental responsibilities / rights or legal guardianship

Where the minor is a foreign national, a valid passport is all that is required.  See additional details under the “Exemptions” header below.

4. Unaccompanied minors – (Requirement)

• A certified copy of the birth certificate
• Parental consent letters from the parent(s) / legal guardian(s) authorizing travel into/out of South Africa
• A copy of the identity document(s) or valid passport(s) of the parent(s) / legal guardian(s)
• A letter from the person receiving the child in South Africa; containing their South Africa residential address and contact details and where the child will reside
• A copy of identity documents or valid passport (and where applicable, visa or permanent residence permit) of the person receiving the child in South Africa
• Parent/Legal guardian contact details

5. Child in Alternative Care –(Requirement)

Where the minor has been placed in foster care, temporary safe care, or care of a child and youth care center following an order of a court in terms of the Children’s Act, 2005, or the Criminal Procedure Act, 1977 (Alternative Care), the following documents are required:

• Letter from the Provincial Head of the Department of Social Development where the child resides authorizing departure from South Africa
• South African minors traveling on South African passports may travel to and within South Africa without birth certificates.
• Minors in possession of valid South African visas are not required to produce identity documents already submitted as part of their visa applications when traveling through a South African port of entry (e.g., a birth certificate).
• Where a minor has a passport that contains the details of their parent(s), the minor is not required to produce a birth certificate as well
• School tours — South Africa immigration will accept a letter from the school’s Principal to cover all minors on a school tour.
• Birth certificate and additional documentation is not required for those transiting South Africa.
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Italy is mulling a €25-a-night tax for tourists staying at its most expensive hotels to turn overtourism into economic gain

It feels great to be popular—until the fame gets out of hand. That’s become Italy’s battle this summer. 

With hundreds of millions of tourists flocking to the sunny European destination this summer, the uptick seems relentless. It’s now become a source of public anger across the region. 

Some of Italy’s most sought-after cities, such as Venice, have tried to address the issue with an entry fee and measures to curb big groups of visitors . 

While it’s early to gauge the success of those measures, the country looks determined to turn a corner on its overtourism problem. Its solution? Jacking up the fees tourists pay when staying at Italy’s most expensive hotels. 

The Italian government is mulling a hotel tax of up to €25 a night, the Financial Times reported Friday, to achieve the dual goals of deterring some visitors while filling cities’ coffers.

The measure will add to the existing tax in cities like Venice, where a charge of between €1 to €5 already applies to overnight stays. Those levies could go higher in Rome and are aimed at safeguarding the legacy and improving the quality of services amid higher demand, according to Venetian tourism’s official website .    

If the new proposal kicks in, it’ll have different tiers—for instance, the cheapest room will be charged €5, whereas rooms that cost over €750 a night will face €25 in fees, according to documents seen by the FT . 

The move could, in theory, bring in generous revenues for municipalities. Part of the funds would be used to tidy up cities by improving trash collection. 

However, tourism industry bodies are concerned that the potential fee goes too far, to the point of disincentivizing visitors.  

“If we scare travelers who come to us by giving the impression that we want to take what we can, we are not doing a good service to the country,” Barbara Casillo, the head of hotel industry representative Confindustria Alberghi, told the outlet. “We must be very careful.”

The trend of overtourism has gripped much of Europe—and particularly Italy—this summer. The likes of Amsterdam have also sought to clamp down on it by imposing a future ban on cruises . The mayor of Athens has spoken out about tourism in the city not being economically viable as it stands today. Affordable travel and accommodation options have spurred this trend over time, experts told Fortune . 

This, coupled with Italy’s sky-high public debt at 140% of its GDP, has put pressure on the government to ease its burden. Tourism, being one of Italy’s key industries, could be a way to do it. Airbnb has started collecting and remitting taxes on behalf of its short-term rental properties as of this year.  

The additional fees are only fair so tourists become “more responsible” as legions visit Italy annually, tourism minister Daniela Santanche wrote in a social media post. 

“Not all taxes are a tax,” she said.   

Still, policies addressing mass tourism must tread a fine line between making monetary gains and allowing hospitality and tourism to flourish. 

“The sector is making an important contribution to the country’s economy, especially with the growth of international travelers, after the difficult years of COVID,” Confindustria Alberghi’s president Maria Carmela Colaiacovo said in a statement earlier this month. 

“But foreign competition is strong and fierce, we need careful policies that do not compromise the competitiveness of our businesses and our destinations. We cannot be a mere ATM for municipalities.”

Italy’s tourism ministry plans to discuss the tax proposal and possible modifications to it with industry bodies next month.  

The Italian tourism ministry didn’t immediately return Fortune ’s request for comment.

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