amtrak tours from new york

Amtrak Guide

By train travelers for train travelers, 15 best amtrak day trips from nyc.

If you live in New York City and need a change a scenery, or are visiting and want to explore the surrounding area, Amtrak is a great option for a day trip. Many Amtrak trains stop at New York Penn Station , so you can easily visit a variety of destinations from big cities to coastal towns.

To start planning your adventure, here are the best Amtrak day trips from NYC. For schedules and ticket prices, use the Find Trains feature on the Amtrak.com homepage with New York Moynihan Train Hall.

This website is reader supported and not affiliated with Amtrak. We may earn a small commission from links on this page .

Stamford, Connecticut is less than an hour away from New York City, making it an easy Amtrak day trip. There are a variety of things to do, including visiting The Beer Garden at Shippen Landing, the Stamford Museum and Nature Center (which has hiking trails, a mansion and farmhouse), Cove Island Park and the Bartlett Arboretum & Gardens . If you like art, be sure to also check out the city’s many street murals .

Poughkeepsie

Travel 1.5 hours along the Hudson River to Poughkeepsie for beautiful water scenery. After you arrive, enjoy more river views on the Walkaway Over the Hudson (pictured above). There’s also a main street with a variety of restaurants, so you can grab a bite to eat before getting back on the train. Restaurants closest to the Amtrak station include Mahoney’s Irish Pub and River Station .

Philadelphia

Visit museums , see historical sights and eat a cheesesteak on an Amtrak day trip to Philadelphia . Travel time is about 1.5 hours from New York City, and you’ll arrive at the 30th Street Station . You can rent a bike outside the building, or use rideshare to reach the Liberty Bell , Independence Hall , Reading Terminal Market and the Philadelphia Museum of Art . There are also many great sightseeing tours to choose from, or take a bike ride along the Schuylkill River to view the natural scenery.

Home to Yale University, New Haven is about 1 hour and 45 minutes away from New York City on Amtrak. There are many wonderful museums and art galleries to visit on campus, or check out one of the many university events open to the public . If you’re more of a nature person, don’t miss the views and hiking at East Rock Park , which overlooks the city and Long Island Sound. New Haven also has many festivals that you can plan a trip around. Be sure to try the local “ apizza ” on your trip.

A two-hour train ride from New York City, Hudson, New York is on the river of the same name. There are many unique shops, cafes and restaurants in walking distance of the Amtrak station, including Wm. Farmer and Sons (farm to table), Ca’Mea (Italian), Red Dot (American) and Le Perche (French). Other things to do include enjoying the river views from the Henry Hudson Riverfront Park and taking the local ferry across the river. Note that it can be difficult to find rideshare cars, so plan on walking to see the sights.

Wilmington, Delaware is a peaceful getaway with art, gardens and mansions to explore. Amtrak travel time is about two hours, and you’ll arrive next to the Wilmington Riverwalk . Take a stroll along the waterfront or use rideshare to reach the beautiful Nemours Estate (pictured above), the Delaware Art Museum and the Winterthur Museum and Garden . You can also visit the Hagley Museum , the site where the Du Pont family started their gunpowder business.

For a fun waterfront scene complete with historic ships, plan a day trip to Baltimore . After 2.5 hours on the train, request a Lyft or Uber to reach the Inner Harbor or attraction of your choice, including the National Aquarium , Fort McHenry and the B&O Railroad Museum . There are also several different boat tours for experiencing the city from the water. When you’re ready to eat, check out the great seafood restaurants for local crab and other dishes.

New York’s capital, Albany is full of history, craft beverages and urban parks. Top attractions include the1899 New York State Capitol building, New York State Museum , Albany Institute of History and Art and USS Slater . In warmer months, you can also cruise on the Hudson River , walk around the beautiful Washington Park and explore the Corning Preserve (pictured above). Plan to get an Uber or Lyft car to reach downtown Albany after arriving at the Amtrak station — travel time from New York City is about 2.5 hours.

For a historic getaway, travel to New London . This Connecticut port town was first settled in 1646, was the base of American naval operations during the Revolutionary War, and officially became a city in 1784. There are 13 historic districts on the National Register of Historic Places to explore, or head to Ocean Beach Park for sandy beaches, a swimming pool, amusement rides, arcade and more. Consider planning your trip around Sailfest , a fun summer event, and taking a ride on the Cross Sound Ferry to view lighthouses and coastal mansions.

Mystic, Connecticut is a charming seaport city that’s 2 hours and 45 minutes away from Manhattan via train. The Mystic Seaport Museum and the last surviving wooden whaling ship are top attractions, and the recreated 18th Century village is a fun place to visit. Check out the festivals and events that take place in Mystic throughout the year for more things to see and do. Note that you’ll need to use Lyft or Uber to get around after you arrive.

An adventure for kids and adults, Lancaster, Pennsylvania  is almost three hours away from New York City on Amtrak. You can have a fun-filled day at  Dutch Wonderland amusement park or explore historical sites including President James Buchanan’s home , Amish Village and the Amish Farm and House . The historic Central Market is also a fantastic place to buy local food (consider bringing a cooler or cooler bag with you on the train). To get around, rideshare is your best option.

A popular summer getaway, Westerly, Rhode Island is near Atlantic Ocean beaches and one of the top-rated hotels in America . After a three-hour train ride, you’ll arrive in walkable downtown Westerly where there are restaurants, trendy bars, shops and historic buildings. Request a Lyft or Uber car to reach the coast and the charming Watch Hill village, Napatree Point Conservation Area and Atlantic Beach Park , which has a historic carousel and arcade.

Explore Rhode Island’s capital with a trip to Providence . Learn about the city on a narrated boat tour , enjoy the scenery at Water Place Park , eat amazing Italian food in the Federal Hill neighborhood, or head to Roger Williams Park for a zoo, botanical garden, boat rentals and walking trails. The city is also known for having fabulous restaurants and is the location of the Rhode Island Seafood Festival .

Washington D.C.

About 3.5 hours away from New York City on Amtrak, Washington D.C. is full of museums , monuments and great restaurants . The hop-on-hop-off trolley tour is an easy way to visit major attractions or get on the red subway line at Union Station to visit the sights (use Google Maps with the transit icon to get directions). Consider a trip on Memorial Day to visit the many veteran memorials and museums or in March to see the cherry blossoms .

Get an early start to enjoy a day trip to Boston . Amtrak travel time is about four hours (for faster travel, book tickets on the Acela). You can walk to major tourist attractions from South Station, including the Boston Tea Party Ships , Boston Public Garden , Faneuil Hall Marketplace and the Freedom Trail . You’ll have a few hours to explore, so plan accordingly. Consider a sightseeing tour to view the city in a short amount of time.

Note that you can also book your tickets to the Back Bay Station for easy access to two malls and shops and restaurants on  Newbury Street .

More Information

• Acela vs Northeast Regional
• 10 best East Coast Amtrak trips
• New York City to Florida by train
• New York City to Niagara Falls by train

Top photo credit: Julian Colton (Watch Hill Cove in Westerly)

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The best train trips from NYC for a scenic rail adventure

New York City is just a few hours from historic cities and beautiful communities accessed via train—and with breathtaking views along the way!

As much as the U.S. is heavily car-dependent and the American past time is a good ol’ summer  road trip along historic routes across the states, the Northeast is definitely spoiled with accessible rail connections making it easy for rail aficionados, business travelers, tourists and anyone to sojourn between cities and small towns for quick day trips and weekend getaways in any season. New York City, especially, is within 10 hours of some historic cities and beautiful communities accessed via train—and with breathtaking views along the way!

Even though the region doesn’t have sweeping scenic train rides such as the California Zephyr going into the Rocky Mountains or the Coast Starlight route with Cascade Mountains and Pacific Coast views, the New York/Northeast route can still boast of historic landmarks and ruins along the Hudson Valley, sparkling waters of the Connecticut coastline in summer, and truly spectacular fall foliage in autumn.

Check out these direct train routes that’ll offer up scenic views right outside your window.

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Best scenic rail trips from NYC

1.  Enjoy Hudson River and mountainous views to Pittsfield, MA

Use that PTO and hop onto the Berkshire Flyer’s seasonal weekend service route for the long but scenic train ride to Pittsfield—the Heart of the Berkshires . Gaze out the window at the lush Hudson River valley green and its historic ruins as the four-hour train rolls through Poughkeepsie where the Gilded Age Vanderbilt Mansion is a few miles north of the station. The Berkshires is famous for a thriving ecosystem of woodlands, wetlands, and mountains , all of which attract outdoorsy travelers. Pack a bike or hiking boots to enjoy the scenic landscape in Pittsfield, which is visible as the train rolls into town.

What train route? Amtrak Berkshire Flyer How long is the train ride? 4 hours 5 minutes from New York’s Moynihan Hall.  Why is this route nice? Views of the Berkshire Mountains, Hudson River, picturesque towns and Catskills

2.  Take in coastal scenes to Providence, RI for America’s smallest state

America’s smallest state is a direct train ride for city adventures any day of the week as the train station is a walking distance to downtown Providence. This 3.5-hour route hugs the Connecticut coast and riders can see the water and boats bobbing and sailing on it at several points along the train ride. Heading southbound towards New York City? Sit on the left side of the train for even more spectacular coastal views.

What train route? Amtrak Northeast Regional How long is the train ride? 3.5 hours from New York’s Moynihan Hall.  Why is this route nice? Sparkling summer coastal views of sailboats and harbors

3.  See skyline and river views of Philadelphia, PA

Philadelphia is a hop, skip, and a jump away from NYC (just an hour and a half) and while the views tend to be industrial, graffiti-decorated, or bland as you pass through New Jersey and Delaware, the left side of the train is where you’ll see the Philadelphia skyline and Boathouse Row along the Schuylkill River before arrival at Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station.

What train route? Amtrak Northeast Regional How long is the train ride? 1 hour 30 minutes from New York’s Moynihan Hall.  Why is this route nice? Nighttime views of Boathouse Row and the Philadelphia skyline, rowers on the river during the day and industrial architectural remnants (for those with a niche interest)

4.  Cruise through the lush Hudson Valley heading to Albany, NY

The NYC to Albany is one of the few train rides in the Northeast with lovely views of verdant foliage and wine country of the Hudson Valley region heading north three hours to Albany. On the return journey from Albany to NYC, sit on the right side for breathtaking views of the Hudson River, the Catskill Mountains, and the Palisades as you approach Penn Station. The Palisades are especially scenic during fall foliage when leaves turn hues of yellow and orange.

What train route? Amtrak Adirondack, Ethan Allen Express How long is the train ride? Approx. 3 hours from New York’s Moynihan Hall. Why is this route nice? Views of the historic Hudson Valley, Hudson Valley towns and villages, Palisades, and Catskills

5.  Discover castle ruins and lighthouse views on the way to Hudson, NY

Fondly known as “ Upstate New York’s Downtown , ” Hudson is a favorite among NYC residents for day trips and weekend getaways—it’s just two hours away! The Hudson Valley is one of the most scenic routes in New York State so keep your eyes peeled for the ruins of Bannerman Castle on Pollepel Island, Bear Mountain, and the historic Hudson-Athens lighthouse . In addition, the train speeds by lush forests and marsh that are green in summer but explode with hues of yellow and orange for fall foliage.

What train route? Amtrak Maple Leaf, Adirondack and Ethan Allen Express lines How long is the train ride?  2 hours from New York’s Moynihan Hall.  Why is this route nice? Views of the historic Hudson-Athens lighthouse , Bannerman Castle ruins, West Point, Bear Mountain and lush foliage along the Hudson River.

6.  Ride the Connecticut coast to Mystic for nautical history

Interested in nautical and whaling history but also want a small-town charm with a beautiful downtown? Mystic is it. Enroute to Mystic, swap highway gridlock for stress-free scenic train travel passing through attractive small towns with steeples, historic architecture, and verdant foliage. In New York, the three-hour route goes by the Hudson River where the Hudson-Athens lighthouse is visible if seated at the right side of the train heading southbound into New York City.

Closer to Mystic, the train passes right through Sixpenny Island and also hugs the south end of the nearby Haley Farm State Park . The route also goes by the Mystic Seaport harbor area where historic ships like the Charles Morgan whaling ship and other vessels are visible from the train.

What train route? Maple Leaf, Adirondack, and Ethan Allen Express How long is the train ride? Approx. 3 hours from New York Moynihan Hall.  Why is this route nice? Views of Hudson-Athens lighthouse in NY, historic ships in Mystic Seaport harbor, small New England towns and scenic state parks in Connecticut.

7.  See Pennsylvania Dutch Country on the way to Pittsburgh, PA

Pittsburgh is a long but direct train ride from NYC. Still, the window scenes as the nine-hour train speeds by make up for this distance. Look out for the historic Horseshoe Curve near Altoona—known as one of the eight engineering marvels of the world—and gaze at the farmlands and barn houses of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. The train rounds the Horseshoe Curve once each way daily. Also visible is Pittsburgh’s Golden Triangle, where the Allegheny, Monongahela and Ohio Rivers converge; and the Allegheny Mountains are also visible from the train.

What train route? Amtrak Pennsylvanian How long is the train ride? Approx. 9 hours from New York Why is this route nice? Scenes of Horseshoe Curve as an engineering marvel, Allegheny Mountain Range and the Golden Triangle river convergence point.

8.  Spot the Hudson River and Lake Champlain toward Burlington, VT

If you’re into slow travel, this route is just for you, so board with refreshments and entertainment for the ride to the Green Mountain State. Eight hours northbound to Burlington, sit on the left side for Hudson River views (beautiful in all seasons) and scenic glimpses of New England communities with their architecture and steeples. In Vermont, the views that matter are those of Lake Champlain south of Burlington, and this view would be on the left side of the train northbound. Heading north to Burlington, the Vermont portion will be dark except on long summer days.

What train route? Ethan Allen Express How long is the train ride? Approx. 8 hours from New York’s Moynihan Hall Why is this route nice? Lake Champlain and scenic Hudson River Valley views

9.  Marvel at Chesapeake Bay views toward Baltimore, MD

Baltimore doesn’t spring to mind when listing scenic train rides but here’s a tip: southbound from NYC, sit on the left side of the train for Chesapeake Bay views. During the fall, you might even get to see the fiery red, yellow, and orange leaves of the Bay’s fall foliage on the way. This nearly three-hour route might also terminate in Washington D.C. and for brief scenic views en route D.C., sit on the left side for where the train crosses the Susquehanna River.

What train route? Amtrak Northeast Regional and Amtrak Acela How long is the train ride? Approx. 2 hours 50 minutes from New York Why is this route nice? Chesapeake Bay and Baltimore skyline views

10.  See ships and harbors on the coast heading to Boston, MA

The NYC to Boston route is another route in the Northeast with lovely views so ease the four-and-a-half-hourlong ride to Boston by identifying and admiring scenic views from the train window. From NYC, sit on the right side as the train hugs the Connecticut coastline for views of ships, harbors, and bridges. 

What train route? Amtrak Acela and Amtrak Northeast Regional How long is the train ride? Approx. 4 hours 30 minutes from New York Why is this route nice? Scenes of the Connecticut coastline

11.  Peep the Palisades cliffs in Poughkeepsie, NY

The best views here are during fall foliage season where this two-hour train hugs the edge of the Hudson River allowing magnificent views of the Palisades with their bright fall colors. Get your walking shoes on for more bursts of color as you walk or bike Walkway Over the Hudson , an elevated pedestrian bridge beginning at the Poughkeepsie station, for photography-worthy scenes and discovering communities along the way. 

What train route? MTA Metro-North from Grand Central Terminal How long is the train ride? 2 hours  Why is this route nice? Colorful views of the Palisades cliffs and other foliage 

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New York by Rail Travel Packages is your ticket to exciting destinations throughout New York State and Canada!

We provide a number of great getaway destinations but we will continually add more unique travel ideas for those who want to leave the car behind and let Amtrak do the driving. More than that, New York by Rail Travel Packages takes care of all the details on your trip so that you can spend more time enjoying your vacation package and less time planning it.

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Montréal seduces visitors with a harmonious pairing of the historic and the new. From season to season, day and night, Montréal pulses with activity. Known for its many festivals, the city hosts a diverse array of events, exhibitions and gatherings for the thousands of culture, nature and thrill seekers. While masterful chefs continue to elevate Montréal’s reputation as a gourmet destination, creative artists and artisans draw admirers in droves to the haute couture ateliers, arts galleries and charming boutiques that line the city streets. Montreal has something for everyone and this charming bilingual city is ready to host you.

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Niagara Falls, one of the natural wonders of the world, is just a scenic train ride away. On the border of New York State and Ontario where Lake Erie drains into the Niagara River, this dramatic hydraulic phenomenon is actually three massive cascades – American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls and Horseshoe Falls – at the end of Niagara Gorge. Vacationers have traveled to these famous waterfalls for over a century. Now it’s your turn! Cruise close enough by boat to be engulfed by their roar. See them from above from the observation tour, and then walk beside them to feel the force of the winds they create. It’s a trip of a lifetime.

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Imagine relaxing under the stars from the deck of an old-fashioned paddle-wheeler while reminiscing about the glorious view you hiked to earlier that day. Or maybe you spent the afternoon at a sandy beach after an adrenaline-packed morning at an amusement park. You must be in Lake George! Urbanites have spent their vacations here since the mid-1800’s spurred by William H.H. Murray’s Adventures in the Wilderness, a combination guidebook and collection of short stories about this region of the Adirondacks. Murray took the train to Lake George for its fresh air, clear water and majestic, wildlife-laden forests.

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Saratoga treasures its rich history of sparkling mineral waters and luxurious spas that have provided respite and relaxation for hundreds of years. The Victorian grandeur that is quintessentially Saratoga includes a list of over 1,000 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places…this lovely city offers something for everyone. Saratoga is all about racing! World-class thoroughbred horse racing, exciting harness racing and, polo events are signature events that have brought visitors here for generations. Downtown Saratoga has quaint shops, exquisite dining and entertainment along with a charming Victorian pedestrian setting provide hours of relaxation.

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Best Amtrak Trips From New York City

“The Big Apple”, “Gotham” and “The city that never sleeps”, are just a few nicknames that one of the the biggest, brightest and most loved cities in the world has gained in the 368 years it has existed. From Time Square, to the Statue of Liberty to the Empire State building, there are so many places to explore in this fascinating city filled with unique spots and exciting places.

You could spend months here and still not see everything there is to experience. However, there are places near and not so near that are just a train ride away that have there own mystery and intrigue for you to explore. From New York City, you can get to Boston, Upstate Vermont, Niagra Falls and Washington D.C., by traveling on an Amtrak route that will not only be fun but allow you to multitask while you travel. Get some work done or sit back and enjoy the famously fabulous scenery there is to see across this Eastern part of the country.

Before taking off on your trip check out our list of 20 must have items for your next Amtrak trip .

• 1.1 How to Get to Boston On Amtrak
• 1.2 What to do in Boston
• 2.1 How to get to Upstate Vermont
• 2.2 What to do in Upstate Vermont
• 3.1 How to get to Niagara Falls
• 3.2 What to do in Niagara Falls
• 4.1 How to get to Washington, D.C.
• 4.2 What to do in Washington, D.C.

How to Get to Boston On Amtrak

The trip from New York City to Boston is one that everyone should aspire to take. Two great cities, one great mode of transportation that can show you some of the most beautiful country in the east. With gorgeous historical cities and the picturesque Long Island Sound, this trip is not just a journey, it becomes part of the destination. Clocking in at four hours driving time, your Amtrak trip will beat that time by thirty minutes. Rest, relax, enjoy the scenery and get to your destination quickly.

The Acela train by Amtrak will get you to where you need to go in utmost comfort. The Acela boasts both First Class and Business class seating with WiFi capabilities and comfortable seats that recline and include a footrest. Are you hungry? Visit the cafe car and grab a bite to east on your short journey. If you are all business on this trip, the quiet car can help you focus to get that all important work done. If you are seated in First Class a great advantage is complimentary hot meals and beverages at your seat. Chalk this up as just another way you are saving by not having to stop to eat on your drive to Boston.

An alternative to the Acela and a more budget friendly option is the Northeast Regional train that runs hourly during the week. This train also offers Coach and Business Class seating, comfortable seats and complimentary drinks along with free WiFi.

If you have a First Class ticket on the Acela, you have the option of visiting the Metropolitan Lounge at Moynihan Train Hall and the Boston South Station to grab a drink or have a business meeting.

What to do in Boston

Boston is filled with all things old and new. If you are there for a history tour, there is almost no other place that tops it. Start at some of the most iconic sights like the site of the Boston Massacre, then visit the Old State House and learn about its fascinating history. Continue down the “Freedom Trail” and hit all sixteen stops of significance.

Next, it’s time to get a taste of Boston. You know you can’t leave without tasting some Boston Clam Chowder or their world famous lobster rolls. Luke’s Lobster Back Bay or Lobstah On A Roll, will have you covered in that department. To end the day, take a horse and buggy ride or stroll the Boston Common. This city is so exciting and walkable, the sky really is the limit!

A close hotel to the station in Boston is the Intercontinental . We’ve also stayed at the Club Quarters , and had a great visit while saving some money.

We love to use Go City to save on our admission tickets in Boston. They have all inclusive passes to everything you could want to do while you visit Boston.

Upstate Vermont

How to get to upstate vermont.

Aww, Upstate Vermont. Just the mere mentioning conjures images of spectacular autumn canopies and the crackle of fallen leaves under your feet. To get to this once a year phenomena will only take about 7.5 hours, compared to 5.5 hours when driving. Watch as the scenery whizzes by your window while you sip on a pumpkin spiced latte with your tunes playing, or read a book and catch up on some work. It’s your choice because you aren’t behind the wheel!

The Amtrak Vermonter starts your journey from NYC Moynihan Train Hall At Penn Station and arrives at Burlington, Vermont. The Vermonter features Coach and Business Class seating with a Cafe Car offered for those snack cravings. Free onboard WiFi, ample storage for your luggage and comfortable seating round out the Vermonter’s list of luxuries. If you plan on sight seeing, consider taking a bike and store it conveniently with Amtrak’s Carry-on Bike Service.

What to do in Upstate Vermont

Exploring the Vermont countryside and its quaint little towns is a top trip for many in the fall. Meander around Burlington, VT and its gorgeous streets and historic homes or put your bike to use and bike the Island Line Trail and the shoreline of Lake Champlain. After seeing the beautiful Adirondacks on your bike, stop by Burlington City Arts to get a taste of Vermont arts and culture. Next, head to Church Street Marketplace for some amazing Mediterranean or some farm to table cuisine. Whatever you do, almost anywhere in Vermont in the fall will be a major win with your crew.

Niagara Falls

How to get to niagara falls.

Getting to this iconic American destination has never been more fun when riding on Amtrak. This nine hour excursion will take you through beautiful wine country, gaming lands and along state parks. You can make this drive, but you must consider the traffic that you will almost certainly battle coming out of New York City and through some of the more populated cities in the east. With no traffic the drive would be a little over seven hours and includes toll fees.

The Empire Service train with Amtrak offers Business Class service, complete with luxurious leather seats with footrests and complimentary beverages. Board the Empire Service at New York Moynihan Train Hall at Penn Station and get off the train in beautiful Niagara Falls.

What to do in Niagara Falls

Well, this goes without saying. But, there is one thing that completely steals the show, here. Niagara Falls was America’s first state park. Trains have been bringing hoards of visitors to Niagara Falls since the early 1800’s and interest has never waned. Watch as 3,160 tons of water tumble down the falls every second. Alternatively, you can descend into the falls for a boat ride and get up close enough to get drenched by the spray of the thundering falls.

Niagara Falls has been a tourist hot spot for centuries and there’s no shortage of other things to do. Visit the Skylon Tower and gaze at the beauty of the falls at night as you dine on one of the best buffets in America. Visit the Butterfly Conservatory and experience the wonder of thousands of dazzling butterflies encircling you. If you want to do something away from the falls, Niagara has a plethora of wineries to tour and some surprisingly good wines to taste from the region.

Washington D.C.

How to get to washington, d.c..

There are many trains that run from New York City to Washington, D.C. The Acela will be quicker as it is a high speed route.

The Acela picks passengers up at New York’s Moynihan Train Hall, and goes to Washington’s Union Station. Furthermore, it is high speed and tops out at 150 mph. Therefore, it can get you to your destination in an astounding 2 hours and 35 minutes. This train has every amenity you would ever need including a First Class car. Dine in at your seat and have a hot meal or grab something quick in the cafe car.

The Northeast Regional isn’t high speed, but if you need to make a stop in between New York City and Washington, D.C., this is the train to go with. There are 15 stops in between your destination, therefore, taking this train can take you virtually anywhere you need to go on the Northeast Corridor. Featuring Coach and Business Class with extra wide seating, you will be comfortable and entertained with the provided WiFi access.

Union Station in Washington D.C. also features a Metropolitan Lounge for first class Acela passengers and sleeper car passengers on other trains.

What to do in Washington, D.C.

Washington D.C. is a wonderland of history and architecture. If seeing America’s most valued and iconic sites is on your bucket list, then you have come to the right place. See the sights by foot, bike, Segway or double decker bus. Visit the museums and historical sites by day, or enjoy the stunning display of city lights by night. Take a guided tour, or do it yourself. Whatever you decide to see the Lincoln Memorial, the Smithsonian, the U.S. Capitol and the White House is up to you. Unfortunately, you can’t see all of these and much more in one day. Take a week and enjoy it all!

These exciting routes from New York City will give you all that you are looking for on a trip in the east. From the mesmerizing sights of Niagara Falls, to the spectacular monuments America’s founders built, these Amtrak routes can get you there to make those coveted vacation memories.

In Washington D.C. we recommend staying at the Phoenix Park Hotel , which is the closest hotel to the station.

Wendy Edwards

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This Train Goes From New York City to Montreal Through Some of the Most Beautiful Scenery on the East Coast — and It Relaunches Today

Amtrak's Adirondack train goes from New York City to Montreal in 10 hours. Here’s what you can expect from the newly relaunched route.

Picture this: you wake up early to grab a coffee in Manhattan , board a train, then sit back and relax while you pass some of the most beautiful scenery on the East Coast. You watch the leafy hills of the Hudson Valley roll by, and by midday, you’re in the quaint Lake Champlain region, stretching from New York's Adirondack Mountains to Vermont's Green Mountains, a perfect place for hikers to hop off and explore. If you stay aboard until the end of the line, you’ll arrive in Montreal by the evening, where you can spend the night and wake up to the city’s French delicacies, vivid street art, and live music.

Courtesy of Amtrak 

Given the many benefits of train travel — no sitting in traffic or navigating directions, and less environmental impact relative to other forms of transportation — it may be one of the most underrated ways to get around. For those looking for a leisurely trip between two world-class cities, the Amtrak Adirondack Route , a 10-hour route that runs from New York City to Montreal and back, is hard to beat. In a region with four distinct seasons, the route offers gorgeous views no matter the time of year, from fiery-orange foliage in the fall to snow-covered hillsides in the winter. After pausing for several years, the full route reopens on April 3, 2023.

Here’s what you need to know before taking a trip on Amtrak's Adirondack route.

Barry Winiker/Getty Images

Highlights of Amtrak's Adirondack Route

If you board at Manhattan’s Penn Station in the morning and head north, you’ll soon enter the Hudson Valley, running close along the banks of the peaceful Hudson River. Those with a nostalgic streak will get a kick out of picturing the many classic movies and books set in the region, from the musical “Hello, Dolly!” to the many novels of Edith Wharton. The region is home to premium wineries, apple farms, and hikes. 

About 2.5 hours after leaving Manhattan, the train first stops in Albany, where you can grab a bite for lunch or visit sites such as the New York State Capitol building or the New York State Museum . Beyond Albany, the Fort Edward, Ticonderoga, and Rouses Point stops are all in or just outside the iconic Adirondacks. From there, a number of transportation options are available to get to local attractions, including the waterfalls at High Falls George or Ausable Chasm , the self-proclaimed “Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks,” where you can hike, float, or take a guided tour. Get a glimpse of U.S. history at the Forts of Ticonderoga and Crown Point , which date back to the 18th century. Lake Champlain , one of the largest freshwater lakes in the U.S., is also a beautiful stopping point. The region is known for its array of summer and winter outdoor activities, including skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. Note that you'll need proper documents if you plan to ride to the end of the line in Canada.

Courtesy of Amtrak

Seating on Amtrak's Adirondack Route

The Amtrak Adirondack route is a daytime train and is about a 10-hour journey from New York to Montreal. Coach class offers spacious reclining seats, dining trays, reading lights, and electric outlets. There’s no middle seat option, so you don’t need to worry about getting squeezed in. To get the clearest view of the Hudson River, sit on the left side going north and the right side going south.

Dining on Amtrak's Adirondack Route

Amtrak’s Adirondack route includes a café car where you can purchase a variety of meals, snacks, and beverages (including beer, wine, and spirits). The menu features standard breakfast fare, grilled panini sandwiches, entrée salads, and pastries, as well as pizza and a number of packaged snacks and candy. 

Perks on Amtrak's Adirondack Route

You can bring two bags and two personal items on board the train. Wi-Fi is available throughout the trip, so enjoy scrolling to your heart’s content. Depending on how far you’re going, you may be able to bring your small dog or cat for a fee (just note the guidelines and restrictions beforehand).

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A Martini Tour of New York City

By Gary Shteyngart

Three years ago, as the pandemic was loosening its grip on the world, and as I started to recover from the aftereffects of a botched childhood circumcision that had returned to haunt me in middle age, I rediscovered the bottomless pleasure of a cold dry Martini. My emergence from both a global and personal health crisis plunged me into a daily Saturnalia. As restaurants reopened, I unhinged my jaw and left it open: suadero tacos dripping with lard; twisted knobs of dough crowning gigantic Georgian khinkali dumplings; the mutton chop at Keens Steakhouse that is made for sharing in theory, but not in practice—all fell victim to my appetites. And to help the food go down easy, I also consumed gallons of Willamette Valley pinot noir and hyper-local artisanal ales. Soon enough, my A1C levels were in the prediabetic range and I knew that action had to be taken.

Sugar was the problem, and while I have always been an aficionado of the blood-sugar-lowering wonder drug metformin I decided to make a life-style change as well. I decided to start drinking lots of Martinis. Martinis, I reasoned, contain far less sugar than beer or wine. Also, Martinis make you happier faster and so you do not need to drink as many of them. There is a point in my writing day when a Martini appears before my eyes and I have to resist putting it in the hands of my characters. In my last published novel, many Gibsons, a relative of the Martini, were enjoyed by nearly all my protagonists as they faced lifetimes of regrets and bouts of late-fortysomething ennui. Martinis often appear in other forms of art as symbols of joy and closure. The last scene of “ Poor Things ,” a stylized and sybaritic film if ever there was one, ends with the sumptuously dressed characters drinking a bevy of Martinis.

But not all has been well in Martini land. For years, doctors have been telling us that a glass or two of wine at dinner is good for our health. So how bad could two relatively sugar-free Martinis be? Recently, however, doctors changed their minds. A flurry of articles descended from Mount Hippocrates declaring that the healthiest choice was zero alcohol.

Zero alcohol! A glass of water with our salad. A splash of cucumber juice after our workout. The more articles I read, the angrier I became. Modern Americans are supposed to submit to all the indignities of late capitalism: the endless work hours, the 9 P.M. e-mails from our superiors, software that monitors our every keystroke. And then we’re not even supposed to have a drink in the middle of this psychic carnage? (Perhaps that drink would interfere with our productivity.) I understand that most doctors want us only to stay healthy, but the Rx on their prescription pads seems to read “Endless suffering endured daily; refill until death.” No, I, for one, would not submit. Let the younger folks medicate with their Adderall to stay up and their benzos to come down. In the meantime, I would reach for my gin and my vermouth and one V-shaped glass to contain them all. I would dedicate myself to the cult of the Martini.

But which Martini? I divide my time between upstate New York and New York City, and both have bars and restaurants that make formidable versions of the drink. Perhaps the best Martini one can enjoy is on the porch of my home in the country, but not all readers will find themselves there. Instead, with the so-called end user in mind, I decided to find some of the best Martinis in the city and to do so with some of my favorite Martini devotees: writers, actors, critics, and other assorted dipsos.

My Martini journey began on a chilly February with my friend the writer Amor Towles. I had asked Amor, with whom I share a neighborhood and a penchant for high-quality drinking, for his favorite Martini in the city and he had mentioned the Chelsea, which was once a semi-seedy artist’s paradise and now is not. The Martini of the Lobby Bar there is beloved because it pays homage to the Dukes Martini—named for the eponymous bar and hotel in London’s St. James’s neighborhood—which is famed for its frostiness, its purity, and, not least importantly, its size. (Legend has it that patrons at the original establishment were only allowed two per evening.)

The Lobby Bar is sumptuous, with a bar top that accommodates a Parthenon’s worth of marble, and banquettes that are cozy and velvety. Amor came properly dressed in a vest for the occasion, while I had hastened off the Amtrak in my country garb. The Dukes Martini was assembled tableside—the ingredients presented on a foldout stand—by a young server skilled in the pouring arts. When it comes to the purist’s dry Martini, there are two things to remember. First, there is a mantra that Amor himself has coined: “Crisp, clear, and cold.” The Lobby Bar follows these directives by freezing the glasses, as well as the gin or vodka. The second is the “vermouth rinse.” In this maneuver, the composition I usually turn to for a dry Martini—one part vermouth to five parts gin—is almost entirely done away with. The vermouth is conscripted only to coat a rather enormous glass and is then tossed away before the gin or vodka, which has been primed with a dash of salt-water solution, is poured. (I have been told that at the original Dukes the vermouth was ignominiously tossed onto the carpet, whereas at the Chelsea it is merely splashed into a tiny glass of olives, perhaps later to be lapped up by an alcoholic dog.) Notably, no ice or shakers are used and the alcohol is neither shaken nor stirred, creating a ninety-five-per-cent undiluted Martini, which, at this volume, functions as a kind of uncontrolled insanity.

The drinking began. The first Martini, essentially a vermouth-coated container for what I eyeballed to be two and a half to three shots of juniper-noted, grapefruit-evoking Tanqueray No. Ten gin, immediately put us in a mood. The mood was a good one. I cannot remember whether it was Amor or I who said “I’m feeling very chummy.” Perhaps we both said it. The Dukes Martini came with an array of garnishes, of which I found the lemon peel most conducive to the juniper crispness of the Tanqueray.

By this point, there was no other choice but to try the Dukes Martini with Ketel One vodka. Purists insist on gin, of course, but given my national background growing up in a famous autocracy high up by the Gulf of Finland, my constitution prefers vodka for the recovery process the morning after. Nevertheless, this was a hell of a lot of vodka. Here, I plopped an olive into the oversized glass for a hint of brininess. Although my thumbs were ceasing to work, I managed to type “This is friendship juice” into my phone as Amor and I chattered away on topics both alcoholic and literary. We ordered a very decent shrimp cocktail and split a B.L.T. sandwich to fortify ourselves for our third drink, the so-called 1884 Martini. This beast is premade with two types of gin—Boatyard Double Gin, from Northern Ireland, and the New York Distilling Company’s Perry’s Tot Navy Strength Gin—which clocks in at a ridiculous 114 proof. This dangerous concoction is then fat-washed with Spanish Arbequina olive oil, after which it is frozen and the olive oil’s fat removed, while vermouth, lemon liqueur, a house-made vetiver tincture, and a few dashes of lemon-pepper bitters are added. A lemon peel is then showily expressed over the glass tableside and a very briny Gordal olive and a cocktail-onion skewer are plopped in. Although more sizable quantities of vermouth and other pollutants are at play than in the classic Dukes Martini, the over-proofed gin does a lot of the talking and one is soon very convincingly drunk.

Three Martinis in, spirits high, voices loud, we stormed down Broadway to our native Gramercy, where, in the pursuit of further bar eating and to descend from our Martini highs, we split a duo of frankfurters at the Old Town Bar & Restaurant, along with a pair of Negronis. That night, my stomach padded with beef and bun, I descended into the sleep of the righteous, dreaming of further drunken friendship still.

My research continued. I conscripted my friend the actor J. Smith-Cameron, known lately for her role as Gerri on “Succession,” into taking me to one of her favorite Martini joints, Gotham Restaurant, in the Village. One can love a bar for the drinks, or one can love a bar for the bartender. For J., it is the latter, and the Gotham bartender’s name is Billy. Gotham, which opened in 1984, has been a fixture of the downtown dining scene for decades, and Billy is a lifer in that world, having worked at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill for twenty years, before spending ten years at Gotham. (The restaurant closed during COVID and reëmerged under new ownership.) J. and I are besotted by the man, by the excellent floral skinny tie, by the black vest, by the rolled-up bartender’s sleeves. There is a bookshelf to the left of the bar and the corporatized but still-interesting urban ballet of Twelfth Street beyond the restaurant’s tall windows, and then there is the potent drink before us.

When it comes to Martinis, Billy is a rebel against the general anti-vermouth vibe that pervades our city, but he knows his patrons prefer their libations dry. “ ’Cause most people,” he told us, “if you put vermouth in nowadays, they send it back.” He mixed us a Vesper, a drink that de-Balkanizes the conflict between vodka and gin by combining both, with a splash of Lillet Blanc serving as the Holy Spirit. “I use more Lillet to make it sweeter, to add more body,” Billy told us. The drink, while still crisp, was more toothsome than a standard dry Martini.

As we tried on a pair of Gibsons for size (here, a cocktail onion serves as the garnish), J. and I discussed child rearing. When her daughter was a child, J. taught her the rudiments of life: making a good pot of coffee and a good Martini. In a year or two, my ten-year-old son should be taught the same. J. tells me that while on the set of “Succession” she insisted that her character, Gerri, should be drinking gin Martinis with an olive, even while the other characters were drinking trendy “blue drinks” during scenes that called for alcohol. She also once threw a drink at her fellow cast member and friend Kieran Culkin because “Oh, we were very, very rude.”

Billy next presented us with a tribute to the supposed origin of the Martini, the Martinez, developed in the eponymous town northeast of San Francisco during the mid-nineteenth century. The cocktails are related, but after the crisp minimalism of a Gibson, the Martinez is akin to encountering a violent early hominid in a downtown bar. Sweet vermouth and maraschino are conscripted alongside the usual gin. Billy uses Carpano sweet vermouth, which, to my palate, provides hints of bitterness instead of overwhelming sweetness. It went down as easy as a Martinez can, and J. and I were now thoroughly drunk. Gotham’s kitchen was closed, so we headed across the street to get burgers at the Strip House to buffer our stomachs. When we left, an hour later, Billy had also crossed the street to get a drink at the bar. There he was, with his sleeves still rolled up, saying goodbye to the evening.

Over the years, I have had many Vespers with the food critic Adam Platt, and he remains, in my mind, as close as it comes to a philosopher-gourmand. “E. B. White called the Martini the elixir of quietude,” Platty, as he’s known, told me while we were sipping a vodka Martini at Tigre, on Rivington Street, on the Lower East Side. Platty’s father was a high-ranking diplomat in Asia and elsewhere when the future food critic was still a child, and he would come home and make himself a Martini. “My dad didn’t talk a lot when he had a Martini,” Platty said. But when he drank after a long day’s work, “there was a sense of slow-seeping well being.”

The dry Martini may be a powerful “friendship juice,” but a V-shaped glass is also a perfect container above which to hang one’s solitary perplexed punim at the end of a tough week or day or hour. Platty put it slightly differently: “A good Wasp just likes a big-ass Martini.”

Tigre is one of the most beautiful bars of recent vintage that I have seen. Windowless, it glows like a jewel box, and the striking semicircle of the bar is not unlike that of the U.N. Security Council, though studded with booze. Platty remarked that “all these bartenders look like Jesus,” and our handsome open-shirted server so resembled the Lord that I couldn’t help but hum, “Oh, come, let us adore him,” under my breath. The highlight of Tigre’s Martini menu is the vodka-based Cigarette, which Platty immediately qualified as “smoky as fuck.” “It’s old-fashioned, like if you smoked a cigarette while having a Martini,” Jesus told us, which is absolutely on point. Austria’s Truman vodka is shot into flaming orbit by an inventive liquor made by Empirical, the Danish distillery, and named after Stephen King’s pyrokinetic character Charlene McGee, which presents on the tongue as a flavorful burst of smoked juniper, hence the feeling that a draw of nicotine and tar can’t be far.

Platty approved. While he used to drink solely gin Martinis “colder than Margaret Thatcher’s heart,” he cited, as an inspiration for his own switch, the late Roger Angell, a writer for this magazine, who shifted during his later years “ from gin to vodka , which was less argumentative.” Platty’s A1C levels, however, have also driven him in search of other pleasures. “As an older diabetic boomer,” he said, “I like to get high.”

Despite our age and lack of hair, we decided to try our luck in Brooklyn. We headed to Maison Premiere, on Bedford Avenue, which is, oddly enough, owned by the same folks as Tigre. But in contrast to our cordial reception at Tigre, we were kept waiting for almost an hour, promised a Martini, then a seat, while all around us young professionals posed with and then demolished skyscrapers of plateau de fruits de mer. “It’s age discrimination!” Platty hollered, literally shaking his fist above the din. “Where’s my fucking Martini?”

We stomped out of the Maison and angrily scarfed down some street-side tacos as we recovered from this macro aggression. We decided that while Brooklyn was, pace Cormac McCarthy, No Country for Old Men, we would give the borough one more try at Sunken Harbor Club, the recent but already renowned tiki bar above the steak house Gage & Tollner, on a dejected stretch of downtown. Sunken Harbor’s nautical theme and far more low-key clientele quickly warmed our bitter hearts as we were presented with the Immortal Martini. Here I will keep my descriptive powder dry and instead quote from the menu: “This gin Martini intrigues the senses with sesame oil, red pepper, and a cooling hint of cucumber. Not as briny as the sea, but enough to evoke the ocean’s mist.” Precisely. “It’s not bad,” Platty said. “It’s quite smooth,” he added. “I mean, it’s some weird shit. It tastes like a cucumber salad.”

We slurped in contemplation, enjoying the strangest take on the “elixir of quietude” yet, when an urgent message came over the intercom: “We’re taking on water! We’re all going down! This is your last call for alcohol!” Mist rolled into the bar, and a kind of laser-light show erupted all around us to the tune of ABBA ’s “S.O.S.” Satisfied that we had seen the best Brooklyn has to offer, Platty and I departed for our home island.

But a few days later I was back in Brooklyn to visit my friend Matt Hranek, author of the brilliantly concise and altogether helpful volume “ The Martini: Perfection In a Glass .” (Fans of Negronis might want to take a look at the accompanying volume, “ The Negroni: A Love Affair with a Classic Cocktail .”)

The dapper herringbone-jacket-attired Matt—he is also the editor of WM Brown , a life-style magazine—prepared me a few Martinis using coupe glasses and CAP gin, from the Côte d’Azur (“Far more herbaceous than that kind of classic London dry”). Matt is an evangelist for the “vermouth rinse” and the chilled-gin-and-glasses technique (he pointed out “the mouth feel of gin just out of the freezer” and allowed that gin-freezer storage was a “Dukes bar hack”). I want to draw attention to the joys of drinking from a coupe rather than a large V-shaped glass. A server at the venerable Death & Co., in the East Village (which makes a very effective ume-and-yuzu-aided Martini called the Parasol Dance), told me that drinking from a V-shaped glass “calls for an elegance of motion,” an elegance my shaky hands no longer have. Matt’s collection of diminutive coupes creates a different, more measured approach to the intake of vermouth-rinsed, premier-quality gin, and one with zero spillage of the precious liquid.

We crossed back into Manhattan and a six-hour marathon of Martini drinking began, one that should only be attempted by professionals like ourselves. The first stop was the new outpost of the storied Dante, this one on Hudson Street, in the West Village, which specializes in Martinis. On a Friday night, the room tinkled with the sound of voices just a decade out of summer camp and maybe five years out of the Midwest. “New York is so expensive,” a young woman from Ohio seated at the table next to us bemoaned. “But we want to pay for it!” The eponymous Dante Martini may well be worth the price: it is a heady combination of Ketel One, Fords Gin, Noilly Prat vermouth (Matt’s favorite), grappa-esque Nardini Acqua di Cedro liqueur, and lemon and olive bitters. “This is not for the home bartender,” Matt said, as he toasted with the complicated drink. “This is why you go out.” We both took a long sip. “That’s wet ,” he said with appreciation.

I was most interested in the garnish, a tri-color of black, green, and red olives, and was told by the proprietor, Linden Barton Pride (a name as suitable for the protagonist of a novel as for a Martini-bar owner), that these were Cerignola olives, from the Puglia region of Italy. Matt and I followed up our drinks with some shishito peppers and one of the best Martini accompaniments I have had so far, a simple fluffy piece of bread with a side of smoked butter. The bread, Pride told me, is made in a charcoal oven and is a cross between sourdough and Turkish pide. Dante also churns and smokes its own butter. This elemental combination of butter, bread, and colorful olives allowed me to enjoy at least three more Martinis before we shoved off across town.

Our next stop would be a nostalgic one for many New Yorkers, the newly reopened Temple Bar, on Lafayette. While Dante was ablaze with light, the Temple Bar, true to its name, was dark and muted, verging on the sacred. In the old days, I recalled, this is where many affairs were kindled or allowed to slowly burn out. Matt, who has long worked in media, remembered it as a gathering spot. “A lot of finance journalists used to come here,” Matt told me, “I would walk in here and I would see the editors I knew from Vanity Fair , GQ .” He reminisced about a hostess with “Groucho Marx eyebrows” and said that the room was the setting of many of his dates. “It is what I imagined travelling on a yacht would be.”

The Temple Bar closed in 2017, after the death of its owner, and reopened in 2021 under the cocktail stewardship of the team behind the Lower East Side bar Attaboy. The décor is much the same sultry darkened Deco; even the payphone by the entrance remains. Matt insisted that we needed a protein layer to accompany our latest foray, and we chose devils on horseback to go with the “Two Plymouth Martinis very dry up with a twist,” which would serve as a foil to Dante’s eponymous drink. “Plymouth is a much sharper gin than most,” Matt mused as we sipped. The bacon of the devils on horseback set off a long Proustian moment as we recalled the Martini-accompanying bar snacks of yore, the pigs in a blanket, for example, that went so well with the Polo Bar’s Gibsons.

Duty called for us to travel above Fourteenth Street as we visited perhaps the most classic of the city’s Martini destinations, Bemelmans Bar, at the Carlyle Hotel. I would be remiss here if I didn’t mention that by this point my recollections are as blurry as the pictures I tried to take with my phone. With at least six Martinis inside me and searching for a bathroom, I spent a great deal of time wandering in and out of the Bemelmans’s brilliantly glowing maze of rooms, bumping into tourists and trying to engage in conversation the murals of Ludwig Bemelmans’s Madeline and the portrait of Bobby Short, as if they were alive and imbibing alongside me. “Tanqueray Ten,” Matt said to the server when I rejoined him. “One olive, super dry.” Although it was uncalled for, it was still sublime.

Our marathon ended at Aretsky’s Patroon, a restaurant run by the amiable father-and-son team of Ken and Gene Aretsky, who greeted us like heroes returning from a long battle, a battle we had both won and lost. Ken was the manager of the “21” Club during the booze-soaked mid-eighties, and the clubby Patroon is known for its Martinis, its enormous steaks, and the incredible photographs on the walls, including one of Andreas Feininger’s moody shots of lower Manhattan that may be the most Martini-friendly work of art imaginable.

As midnight approached, Matt and I buttressed our stomachs with a côte de boeuf for two, perfectly charred on the outside, and our last (and possibly tenth) Martini, composed mostly of perfectly dry London gin. Matt thought we should end the evening “with a bit of hydration,” and I was picturing some sort of exotic Catalan water to give the côte de boeuf a nice mineral bath, but what he actually meant was a gin-and-tonic. A cab ride home followed, about which I remember nothing.

My final Martini marathon took place at one of the few places in midtown that can make me very happy, Le Rock, the Rockefeller Center restaurant whose bar radiates warmth and civilization to a neighborhood known for neither. I was joined by the journalist and Russia specialist Michael Weiss. There have been many Wasp protagonists in this story thus far, but Jews drink Martinis as well. I once consoled a Jewish friend over the loss of his mother with help from the Smoked Martini (the Laphroaig rinse helps cut through grief) at Russ & Daughters Café, on the Lower East Side.

Perhaps my favorite bartender in the city, Connor Piazza, mixes at Le Rock. Despite her relative youth, she knows her booze and is a whiz with the cocktail shaker. Michael and I were presented with every Martini on the menu. The Au Poivre introduces vodka to the excitement of green peppercorn, and the Super Sec fixes most mortal problems with over-proofed gin and extra-dry and white vermouth. The L’Alaska is perhaps the most interesting, almost a take on the Martinez, with a sweet-but-not-too-sweet combination of dry gin, yellow Chartreuse, and a dash of the Carthusian monks’ Élixir Végétal de la Grande Chartreuse. “Without Martinis, Anglo culture would have never happened,” Michael concluded at the end of this taste-testing as I munched on soft sweetbreads with black truffle and an excellent leeks vinaigrette whose enclosure of leek greens was circumcised tableside so that the roasted white parts within could be exposed by one of the servers. “Four Martinis in an hour,” he added. “I’m bombed.”

As Connor made an In and Out, her version of a “not quite straight up, extra dry, but not dry” Martini, I recalled the first Martini I ever had. I was a sophomore at Oberlin College and my roommate’s father had taken us out to a restaurant called Presti’s, which served hard booze in a partially dry county and was popular with the faculty for that reason alone. The gin Martini tasted strange to my vodka-conditioned tongue, but the olives were nearly winking at me, and after a few of the libations my teen-aged self felt slightly less scared of the world in front of him. I remember staggering to the bathroom and endeavoring to chat up a professor of modernist American literature. I remember seeing myself in the bathroom mirror and wondering if I could somehow prove myself to be at least a little bit suave. I remember lifting up my V-shaped glass back at the table and knowing that it would accompany me through the rest of my life. ♦

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