HURTIGRUTEN

The coastal highway to the soul of the north.

Are you ready for a once-in-a-lifetime journey? 

And it is still bringing people, stockfish, and new kitchen chairs safely between Bergen and Trondheim – and all the way to Varanger and Kirkenes in the far north.

Along with the latest gossip, of course!

A big part of Northern Norway didn’t have proper roads or a railway until after the Second World War.

So if you lived in a remote fishing village, it felt …

… really remote.

That all changed in 1893 when DS Vesteraalen, the first Hurtigruten steamship, began its journey from Trondheim to Hammerfest on 2 July, visiting 11 harbours along the way.

In 1898, the route expanded southwards to include Bergen .

Ten years later, Kirkenes near the Russian border became the northernmost turning point for the coastal voyage.

Customers can also travel all the way from Oslo to North Cape with the new  North Cape Express  or travel all the way from Bergen to Svalbard with the Svalbard Express .

Over the years, Hurtigruten has become an integral part of Norwegian culture and is even immortalised in the song “Hurtigrute” by singer/songwriter Kari Bremnes.

"It was a party that came A One thousand and one nights with a taste of salt With goodbyes and Oh my goodness, there you are"

Hurtigrute, Kari Bremnes

So many stories. Ships. Destinies. Lifelines.

Explore how the coastal express connected Norway at the iconic new landmark, the Hurtigruten museum (a part of Museum Nord) that opened in 2021.

Revisit history in the authentic salons and cabins on the old Hurtigruten ship MS Finnmarken, built in 1956.

The everyday life on board the ships is still very present today.

They continue to bring locals to family gatherings, granny to the doctor, and children to football tournaments ...

... alongside tourists who gaze towards the mountains under a sun that never sets …

… or that doesn’t even bother to show up.

There is no need to stay up all night just in case Aurora goes dancing .

A northern lights alarm will wake you up if you’re sleeping. And do you know what's even better? There is now a Northern Lights Guarantee when you travel in wintertime, which means Hurtigruten give you a free 6-day southbound or 7-day northbound Original Coastal Express Classic Voyage  if the Northern Lights do not occur within sight of your ship!

So get a good night's sleep in your cabin …

… after a meal that tastes of the Norwegian coast.

King crab. Tender lamb. Slow-growing potatoes. And fresh fish, of course.

80 per cent of the food you enjoy on board comes from Norwegian providers, which secures workplaces and the daily lives of the people who live along the coast.

Locals have been fishing “skrei”, the wandering Arctic cod, for thousands of years.

Back on the ship, you can also learn how to take care of the amazing surroundings you sail through.

You see, the coastal express Hurtigruten is considered the world’s greenest cruise line,  and they are now working on having their first zero emission ship ready before 2030 !

You can also check out these facts:

· No single-use plastic on board · The waste from all of the ships is recycled · Hurtigruten has the world’s first hybrid-powered cruise ships · The ships run partly on biogas

Do you feel inspired to help the locals preserve the nature?

Support the Hurtigruten foundation or join one of the beach clean-ups.

You can also sign up for a range of awesome adventures, powered by nature and organised by local guides and tour operators.

Come along!

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Feel the power of the far north.

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passenger on hurtigruten cruise in svalbard

10 Things to Know About Hurtigruten, Norway’s Expedition Cruise Line

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Sarah Schlichter

Deputy Executive Editor Sarah Schlichter's idea of a perfect trip includes spotting exotic animals, hiking through pristine landscapes, exploring new neighborhoods on foot, and soaking up as much art as she can. She often attempts to recreate recipes from her international travels after she gets home (which has twice resulted in accidental kitchen fires—no humans or animals were harmed).

Sarah joined the SmarterTravel team in 2017 after more than a decade at the helm of IndependentTraveler.com. Sarah's practical travel advice has been featured in dozens of news outlets including the New York Times, the Chicago Tribune, USA Today, Budget Travel, and Peter Greenberg Worldwide Radio. Follow her on Twitter @TravelEditor .

The Handy Item I Always Pack: "A journal. Even years later, reading my notes from a trip can bring back incredibly vivid memories."

Ultimate Bucket List Experience: "Road tripping and hiking through the rugged mountains of Patagonia."

Travel Motto: "'To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world.'—Freya Stark"

Aisle, Window, or Middle Seat: "Aisle. I get restless on long flights and like to be able to move around without disturbing anyone else."

Email Sarah at [email protected] .

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Sailing on a modern-day cruise ship may be a long way from the perilous polar expeditions of 19th- and 20th-century Norwegian explorers—but when you cruise with Hurtigruten , those adventures don’t seem so far away.

This expedition company based in Norway isn’t your typical cruise line. Onboard, the vibe is more about casual dress and learning about wildlife than evening wear and hairy-chest contests. Hurtigruten sailings draw adventurous travelers seeking to explore remote places like Greenland, Antarctica, and the far reaches of Norway.

Intrigued? Here’s how to decide whether Hurtigruten cruises are right for you.

Hurtigruten Has a Long, Adventurous History

Now celebrating its 125th anniversary, Hurtigruten was founded in 1893 as a solution to a problem. Back then it was difficult and time-consuming to travel by sea between northern and southern Norway; because there were relatively few lighthouses, nighttime sailing was dangerous. But Richard With, a sea captain from northern Norway, was adventurous enough to take the risk.

In 1893 his steamer, DS Vesteraalen, began weekly sailings between Trondheim and Hammerfest and, later, between Bergen and Kirkenes. The latter route took just seven days and was dubbed hurtigruten , or “the fast route.”

A few years later, With pioneered a regular service between mainland Norway and the remote northern islands of Svalbard. Since then, Hurtigruten has expanded its operations to exotic destinations around the globe.

hurtigruten ms fram greenland

Hurtigruten Sails to Norway, the Poles, and Beyond

For many years the company’s North American name was “Norwegian Coastal Voyage,” and this route is still the one for which Hurtigruten is best known. Eleven ships explore the fjords and islands between Bergen and Kirkenes year-round, allowing travelers to enjoy the midnight sun of the Arctic summer or the northern lights that wash over the winter sky. You can book a one-way journey or stay aboard for the entire 12-day round trip from Bergen.

What makes this voyage unique is that Hurtigruten’s Norwegian coastal ships also serve as ferries for locals (some of whom only stay on for a few hours) and as cargo delivery vessels. This means they make frequent—and sometimes very brief—stops, but you’ll still have time to explore the larger ports along the route.

A few of Hurtigruten’s expedition ships travel more widely, offering cruises to Antarctica and to various parts of the Arctic including Greenland, Svalbard, Iceland, and the Northwest Passage. During the shoulder seasons (spring and fall), you can explore non-polar destinations such as Europe and the eastern coast of North and South America.

The Ships Aren’t Large

If the thought of cruising with thousands of other passengers makes you want to run and hide, the modest size of Hurtigruten cruise ships might offer a better fit. No ship carries more than 970 passengers, with most having a capacity of 400 to 600. MS Fram, the line’s main expedition ship, carries 318 passengers, and Nordstjernen, which sails in Svalbard, holds just 149.

These vessels have a more intimate feel than bigger ships from lines like Carnival or Royal Caribbean, but keep in mind that this also means fewer amenities. On Hurtigruten ships you’ll only have one to three restaurants to choose from, and onboard entertainment is limited, with no casinos or production shows. If you’re content to read a book, soak up the passing scenery, and attend lectures about the local culture and wildlife, these ships might be right for you.

Sailings Can Be Unpredictable

Cruise ships are always at the mercy of waves and weather, but that goes double for expedition sailings in remote parts of the world. A few years ago, I was aboard Hurtigruten’s MS Fram on a trip from Iceland to Greenland, and we missed two scheduled port days due to heavy fog and ice.

“We always have a plan B, C, D, E, and F,” a member of MS Fram’s expedition team told me on a more recent sailing. This means you shouldn’t have your heart set on visiting a particular port—but you can count on the captain and the expedition team to make necessary changes to maintain passenger safety and comfort.

dinner on ms fram hurtigruten

The Cuisine Reflects Norwegian Heritage

If you’ve ever wanted to eat like a Norwegian for a week or two, this is your chance. Even on non-Norwegian sailings, items like brown cheese and gravlax (cured salmon) are regular items on the buffet, and other Scandinavian dishes—reindeer soup, anyone?—often show up on the set dinner menus.

It’s all part of the line’s “Norway’s Coastal Kitchen” initiative, which focuses on locally produced ingredients and sustainable seafood. If you love fish, you’ll be in heaven. If you don’t, there are plenty of other alternatives, including meat, pasta, and a small salad bar.

Expect a European Crowd and a Laid-Back Vibe

Despite growing popularity in North America, most of Hurtigruten’s passengers come from across Europe. PA announcements are given in multiple languages depending on the mix of nationalities onboard; this typically includes English, Norwegian, and/or German.

Onboard dress is casual at all times, though many passengers take it up a notch for dinner (think dress pants and a nice top). You can leave your suit or formal gown at home.

arctic superior cabin on ms nordnorge

Don’t Expect Fancy Cabins

As on many expedition vessels, the staterooms on Hurtigruten’s ships are more functional than luxurious. In lower-priced categories, expect fold-down single beds that can’t be pushed together. If you’re looking for a more romantic option—i.e., a double bed for you and your partner—you’ll have to upgrade to a superior cabin or suite.

Balconies are few and far between, available only on select suites on certain ships. But if you have the budget, they’re worth paying for; imagine gazing out at Antarctic icebergs floating under the midnight sun from your own private verandah.

Do Expect a Variety of Excursions

Hurtigruten excursions vary widely depending on where you’re sailing, but might include activities such as snowshoeing in Antarctica, hiking through a Viking settlement in Greenland, dog sledding in Svalbard, or visiting a working farm in Lofoten, Norway. There’s generally a range of options for all physical abilities. As on most larger cruise lines (and unlike on many expedition lines), Hurtigruten excursions cost extra.

lecture aboard hurtigruten ship

You’ll Learn Something New

Most Hurtigruten ships have a dedicated expedition team aboard all sailings. Enthusiastic and knowledgeable, these experts lead excursions and give onboard lectures on everything from Viking history to Arctic wildlife. You might also hear them over the PA system offering information about the port you’re sailing into or about a whale just spotted off the bow.

Hurtigruten Is Environmentally Responsible

With sailings in some of the world’s most endangered places, Hurtigruten takes its environmental obligations seriously. The company recently announced that it will eliminate single-use plastic items aboard all its ships by July 2018 and retrofit up to nine of its older vessels to run on a combination of liquefied natural gas and battery power (both cleaner options than diesel fuel). MS Roald Amundsen and MS Fridtjof Nansen, new expedition ships that will debut within the next two years, will use hybrid technology that reduces CO2 emissions by more than 3,000 metric tons per year.

More from SmarterTravel:

  • How Not to Get Sick on a Cruise
  • 10 New Bucket List Cruises for 2018
  • The Ultimate Cruise Packing List: What to Pack for a Cruise

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Sarah Schlichter traveled to Canada and New England as a guest of Hurtigruten . Follow her on Twitter @TravelEditor for more travel tips and inspiration .

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Hurtigruten

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Hurtigruten fleet

Ms fridtjof nansen, ms roald amundsen, ms spitsbergen, ms trollfjord, ms otto sverdrup, mv santa cruz ii galapagos, ms nordnorge, ms polarlys, ms nordkapp, ms richard with, ms kong harald, ms vesteralen, review of hurtigruten.

Hurtigruten (hurtigruten.com) is a Norwegian passenger shipping company specializing in cruise and ferry services. The "Norwegian Coastal Express Route" ( Bergen - Kirkenes ) is a cargo-passenger ferry service along Norway's western and northern coast. Hurtigruten's cruiseferries sail nearly the entire length of Norway and complete this roundtrip itinerary in 11 days. The route also includes Lofoten Islands and Vesteralen Islands .

Hurtigruten's competitor on the Norwegian cruiseferry market is Havila Voyages .

Company history

The Hurtigruten company was established by government contract in 1893, in order to improve communications along Norway's jagged and long coastline. On July 2, 1893, the steamship Vesteralen departed on the company's maiden voyage/first roundtrip itinerary from Trondheim , arriving in Svolvaer on July 3rd (35,5 hours crossing) and at Hammerfest on July 5th (after 67 hours). The steamer was mastered by Captain Richard With (Hurtigruten's founder).

Hurtigruten's first expedition voyage was in 1896.

Hurtigruten logo - CruiseMapper

Only Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab was willing to navigate the then poorly charted waters. Such a voyage was especially hard during the dark and long winters. Hurtigruten was a breakthrough for communities. Mail to Hammerfest from central Norway (which had taken 3 weeks in summer and 5 months in winter) could already be delivered in just 7 days.

Encouraged by Vesteraalens' early success, several other companies obtained concessions to operate the coastal route, extended to run from Bergen (southwest) to Kirkenes (far northeast). 11 ships visit each of the 34 ports daily, northbound and southbound. The 12-day roundtrip itinerary Bergen-Kirkenes includes 65 port stops, with ports' stays ranging from 15 min to 4+ hours.

Currently, Hurtigruten provides 24/7 cargo and passenger ferry service Bergen-Kirkenes. To operate this service, the company receives a Norwegian subsidy. However, in 2017 the subsidy arrangement was changed as preventing ferry competition. Some Norwegian interests also argued that Hurtigruten's Norwegian Coastal Service monopoly is not beneficial to the country and that local passengers will only benefit from more competitive offers.

In the 1980s, Hurtigruten's role changed. Operating subsidies were phased out and the operators put emphasis on tourism. New, larger and more luxurious vessels were introduced, with more attention to restaurants, bars, hot tubs, and other comforts. Hurtigruten still serves important cargo and passenger needs and operates year-round. The last two shipping companies, Troms Fylkes Dampskibsselskap (TFDS) and Ofotens og Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab (OVDS), merged on March 1, 2006, as the Hurtigruten Group AS, and a year later became Hurtigruten ASA. In addition to the ferries, high-speed regional express ships, and coastal route, the company operates cruises around South America, Antarctica, and Greenland.

At the end of 2014, the British private equity "TDR Capital" (specializing in control buyout investments in Europe) acquired Hurtigruten. In July 2014, TDR announced 3 potential buyers for the company and receiving offers from them. Since 2014, TDR Capital has provided the money needed for the purchasing and the refurbishment of MS Spitsbergen, as well as the capital for the drydock refurbishments of 4x ships in the Hurtigruten fleet and for two new shipbuilding orders (with optional two more vessels) in an attempt to revive the company.

When TDR bought Hurtigruten, the bid was for USD 884 million. TDR Capital got 90% and both Hurtigruten's shareholders retained 5% of the company each. Future plans are the brand (specializing in explorer cruising / expedition-type vacations) to be popularized on the markets in Asia and the USA. New itineraries will be added, including in exotic destinations, such as Amazon River (South America in general), Caribbean and other not polar regions, in addition to the line's traditional Arctic and Antarctica cruises.

In 2017, Hurtigruten signed a strategic partnership with Alibaba Group's Fliggy (a subsidiary company specializing in tourism). Via Figgy, Hurtigruten scheduled in January and February 2018 and 2019 Antarctica cruises (on the ship Midnatsol (now Maud) ) exclusively for Chinese travelers. These itineraries are roundtrips from Ushuaia Argentina and transit through the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula .

Since July 2, 2018, fleetwide was implemented a policy for not using any single-use plastic products (bags, straws, cups, cutlery, toothpicks, aprons, stir pins, drink mixers, coffee lids). The decision made the shipping company world's first "plastic-free". It is estimated that 15 tons of plastic enters into oceans every minute of the day, ranking plastic pollution world's single biggest threat to the oceans. Hurtigruten's ban of single-use plastics was also imposed on all hotels, restaurants and other establishments contracted by the subsidiary company subsidiary Hurtigruten Svalbard for the land-based operations on Svalbard islands .

Hurtigruten Group's CEO is Daniel Skjeldam, Steven Taylor is the CCO.

Hurtigruten Norway's CEO is Hedda Felin. Hurtigruten Americas' President is Jeffrey Oar.

Hurtigruten Expeditions/HX's CEO is Gebhard Rainer, who in 2024 (effective June 15th) succeeded .Daniel Skjeldam.

In January 2021, Hurtigruten Group's cruise shipping operations were reorganized into two separate entities - "Hurtigruten Expeditions" (rebranded "HX" in December 2023) and "Hurtigruten Norway". Both entities have different management teams (including CEOs).

Hurtigruten Expeditions/HX operates a fleet of smaller-sized vessels deployed in regions like South America and Antarctica, Alaska, North and Central America, Arctic Norway (Spitsbergen, Svalbard), Atlantic Europe (Iceland and Greenland), Southern Europe (Mediterranean), Canary Islands Spain, Madeira Portugal). HX's current Nautical Itinerary Planner/Marine Operations Officer is Niclas Eriksson.

"Hurtigruten Norway" operates Norwegian coastal voyages (Bergen-Kirkenes/ 34-port route) providing cruise and ferry services.

In 2023 Hurtigruten hired Alex McNeil ( Quark Expeditions ' Director of Expedition Experience & Innovation) as SVP of Expeditions Product & Guest Experience, as well as Alastair Newton (Alavan Business Advisory Ltd's Director and Co-founder) as Director of Expedition Operations.

Company changes 2024

In January, HX expanded leadership team with Alex Delamere-White (CCO/Chief Commercial Officer), Jim Sayer (Senior VP of Global Marketing, Managing Director and VP of Europe), Nathaniel Sherborne (VP Sales and Marketing, UK & Nordics/previously worked for P&O UK, Cunard and Princess), Carla Brake (Senior Sales Director), Sheralyn Berry (General Manager for the Americas), Jennifer Kennedy (Business Development Manager Southeast USA), Kent Phillips (Business Development Manager Western Canada), and Ian Kivell (Business Development Manager Eastern Canada).

Effective from November 2024, HX is an all-inclusive cruise line providing as standard/complimentary (fleetwide, and to all destinations) the following amenities and services:

  • Daily land expeditions and activities (hikes, community visits, lectures, etc)
  • Full shipboard dining (breakfast, lunch, dinner with house wine and beer)
  • Availability of wine, beer, spirits, and cocktails throughout the day and evening
  • Unlimited access to beverages (coffee, tea, soft drinks)
  • Complimentary Wi-Fi
  • Inclusive crew gratuities.
  • Participation in the onboard interactive science program (Science Centre + activities)
  • Access to wellness facilities (sauna, hot tubs, gym, etc)
  • Complimentary photos captured by the ship's professional photographer.
  • Expedition gear and a reusable water bottle for guests to take home.

In May, HX appointed Chloe Couchman as Executive VP of Public Relations and Communications, reporting directly to the CEO.

In June, HX signed a partnership with Air Greenland (aka Greenlandair/Greenland's flag carrier) for fly-cruises in 2025 (ship Fridtjof Nansen) with direct flights between Copenhagen and Nuuk. The new offers include pre- and post-cruise packages with fares inclusive of waterfront lodge stays (Ilimanaq) and fishing tours (Nuuk).

Company changes 2023

In December, at the 2023 World Cheese Awards (in Trondheim), Hurtigruten’s Nidelven Bla was named "World’s Best Cheese". Produced by the company Gangstad Gardsysteri AS, the gourmet blue mold cheese is available onboard most Hurtigruten ships (including on all vessels serving the Coastal Express route) since 2015.

In November, Hurtigruten Norway signed a partnership with Arctic Umiaq Line AS (aka Arctic Umiaq/2006-founded passenger and freight shipping/ferry line in Greenland) to promote sustainable travel and tourism in Greenland.

In September, HX appointed Sheralyn Berry as General Manager for the Americas (USA-Canada-Latin America). Previously (2018-2023) she was Contiki Holidays' President for Canada.

In 2023, Hurtigruten Norway celebrated its 130th Anniversary, since its first Norwegian Coastal Express voyage in 1893. In September, the sister-company Hurtigruten Expeditions (operating a 6-ship fleet) was rebranded to "HX".

In March 2023, Hurtigruten launched the "Sea Zero" ship project in partnership with SINTEF (1950-founded, Trondheim-based independent research organization) plus a consortium of 12 maritime companies. The project (budgeted EUR 13 million/USD 14M/GBP 11,5M) received EUR 7M (~USD 7,5M/~GBP 6,2M) in public funding. The 2-year research and development phase (2023-2025) is for developing a battery-based powerplant, a hybrid propulsion system and optimized hull design and onboard energy consumption (electricity used for the hotel operations). Hurtigruten's Sea Zero project will result in the construction of the world's most energy-efficient cruise vessel.

In December 2022, Hurtigruten purchased from the family-owned Rathfinny Wine Estate (Vineyard in Polegate, East Sussex, England UK) a total of 1700 wax-sealed bottles of sparkling wine and placed them at a secret location off Arctic Norway's coast to age. In May 2023, after six months of aging on the seabed (at depth 34 m/112 ft), the bottles (branded Havets Bobler) were retrieved and introduced fleetwide to celebrate the company's 130th Anniversary. The first "Arctic-aged" champagne was tasted on May 12th (by celebrity sommelier Nikolai Haram Svorte) in Sandnessjoen. The special wine-tasting event was attended by Tina Gurra (Hurtigruten's Director of Beverages) and Mark Driver (Rathfinny Estate's co-owner).

Company changes 2022

In March 2022, Hurtigruten Group AS acquired a 24,9% stake (1/4th) in Metropolitan Touring ( Quito Ecuador -headquartered travel company and luxury brand) specializing in South America and Galapagos voyages.

In October 2022 Hurtigruten Expeditions signed a deal with Speedcast (Australian satellite technology provider) and implemented fleetwide SpaceX ' Starlink (satellite internet) connectivity. The fast Internet is unlimited and offered complimentary to both passengers and the crew.

Company changes 2021 (Hurtigruten Galapagos cruise charter)

In June 2021, Hurtigruten Expeditions signed a boat charter deal with Metropolitan Touring (shipowner/company specializing in Galapagos and South America voyages) for the luxury yacht Santa Cruz 2 (max capacity 90 passengers). The boat was extensively drydock-renovated in 2021 (all staterooms and public areas).

The first Hurtigruten Galapagos cruise was scheduled to depart on January 7, 2022.

Hurtigruten's 8-night/9-day Galapagos Islands itinerary includes hotel stays in Quito Ecuador (two nights/pre- and post-voyage), 6-nights of cruising (roundtrips from Baltra Island ), and two domestic flights (between Quito and Baltra).

The maiden season (2022) included a total of 32x expedition packages combining the voyages with land tours in the Galapagos, Cusco-Machu Picchu , Lake Titicaca (Andes Mountain/Bolivia and Peru), Manuel Antonio National Park (off Costa Rica's coast).

In December 2021 were opened bookings for Galapagos 2023-2024 seasons and announced new itineraries. To the 6-night "Eastern Galapagos" was added a 4-night "Northern Galapagos", a 4-night "Western Galapagos" and an 8-night B2B/back-to-back (Northern and Western Galapagos). Hurtigruten also expanded its land program by adding the luxury hotel Mashpi Lodge (capacity 47 beds, northwest of Quito), as a 3-night pre-/post-tour accommodation option for any Galapagos voyage.

Company changes 2020

In late-November 2020, Hurtigruten sold MS Lofoten to Sorlandet Maritime Videregaende Skole (Maritime High School). Since August 2021, the 1964-built vessel is used as a training ship (including hotel ship) for the students. The deal included the option Hurtigruten to occasionally charter the vessel during non-school periods.

For 2020, Hurtigruten reported a loss of EUR 160,6 million (~USD 194M) - in comparison to EUR 17M (~USD 20,5M) loss in 2019. As of Dec 31, 2020, the company had EUR 72M (~USD 87M) liquidity (cash and cash equivalents) and average monthly cash burn EUR 13M (~USD 16M). Hurtigruten's current fleet consists of 16 boats, including 11x expedition ships (5x for Arctic-Antarctic voyages) and 7x ferries (under a 10-year contract with Norway's Ministry of Transportation).

Hurtigruten Svalbard (catamaran cruises)

In May 2019, Hurtigruten partnered with Brim Explorer (Norwegian company specializing in eco-friendly cruising) to introduce a battery-powered catamaran (double-hulled vessel / with 2 parallel hulls) which is custom-designed for scenic polar exploration. The new boat operates various daily-scheduled sea excursions from homeport Longyearbyen (on Spitsbergen Island , Svalbard Norway ) under the new "Hurtigruten Svalbard" brand.

The 2020-launched hybrid catamaran has LOA length 24 m/79 ft, large battery packs and is one of the world's newest fully-electric powered ships. The vessel's batteries can be recharged shoreside and provide power for up to 10 hours at cruising speed 10 knots (18,5 kph / 11,5 mph). Max passenger capacity is 140. Shipbuilder is Maritime Partner AS (shipyard in Alesund Norway ). Boat's exterior and design is by Hareide Design AS - the company that designed the ships of Norwegian Yacht Voyages . Catamaran's hull design is by Wave Propulsion AS (based in Bomlo Norway). Among catamaran's features are hydrophones and underwater drones. The Blueye Robotics-produced drones were also introduced to other Hurtigruten ships.

The construction of MS Brim Explorer (sistership) started in September 2018 (the order was placed in April) and it was launched in June 2019. Starting in August, itineraries are along Norway's coast and north of the Arctic Circle, including Lofoten (during summer) and short breaks from Tromso (during winter). The sistership ( currently under construction ) for Hurtigruten Svalbard was inaugurated in August 2019. Futuristically designed, both tour boats feature 2 decks with floor-ceiling and wall-to-wall windows and offer premium food prepared with locally sourced ingredients.

Since 2019, the company's subsidiary Hurtigruten Svalbard (via partnership with the Finnish company Aurora Powertrains) offers eSled (electric snowmobiles) on shore excursions (wilderness tours) on Svalbard Islands (Norway's Arctic). The new snowmobiles are powered by electricity supplied by alternative sources (solar panels and windmills).

In mid-October 2020, Hurtigruten Group initiated a process to sale Hurtigruten Svalbard's real-estate portfolio (3 hotels, retail shops, apartments). As financial advisor was contracted Carnegie Investment Counsel (Registered Investment Advisor firm).

Hurtigruten's ferry service "Norwegian Coastal Express"

"Norwegian Coastal Express" is a Norwegian passenger shipping (cruise ferry) service on the routes Bergen-Kirkenes (northbound) and Kirkenes-Bergen (southbound) along the western and northern coasts of Norway. Currently, Trondheim-Svolvaer ferry route takes 33 hours, while Trondheim-Hammerfest ferry time is 41 hours 15 min.

On the Bergen-Kirkenes ferry route are transported passengers, as well as provisions, mail and various cargo to Norwegian communities without any road or air access.

For the period 2012-2019, Hurtigruten was given an annual USD 600 million subsidies for public transportation (regular ferry) services not otherwise provided. The company's current contract expires on December 31, 2019, with an optional 1-year extension. At the end of September 2017, Norway's Ministry of Transportation and Communication invited ferry companies to compete for the Norwegian Coastal Service's subsidy, with a deadline for the bids January 3, 2018. The new ferry contract was signed for the period January 1, 2021, through December 31, 2031. Hurtigruten had to modernize 7x vessels (deployed on this route) in order to comply with the contract's requirements.

New ships (Polar-class expedition vessels)

In early-June 2016, Hurtigruten signed a letter of intent for building 4 new expedition ships with ice-strengthened hulls, allowing cruising to Antarctic and Arctic destinations. This was company's largest investment in its 123-year history. It followed the announcement (April 2016) that Hurtigruten will add 2 new Polar-class expedition vessels to its fleet.

Hurtigruten new expedition cruise ship (bow view)

The shipbuilder is Kleven Marine shipyard ( Ulsteinvik Norway ). Ship design and propulsion were developed by Rolls-Royce, with the assistance of the designer Espen Oino. The construction order included two additional options. The new ships were named MS Fridtjof Nansen and MS Roald Amundsen . These are the world's first expedition ships with hybrid propulsion. The new-class vessels feature latest environmentally friendly marine technologies. The new hybrid technology allows cruising with fully electric propulsion for up to 30 min. The main gain is the total reduction in fuel consumption and CO2-emissions. The new hybrid technology, along with the effective use of electricity onboard and optimized hull design, reduces emissions by nearly 20%.

The newbuilds have underwater drones (ROV / remotely operated underwater vehicle) developed by Blueye Robotics (Norway). Each drone weighs 7 kg and has 4 thrusters for propulsion. The ROV also features a wide-angle video camera designed to work in limited-light conditions. It streams true-color live images to the ship's TV screens, to all cabin TVs and also to the digital diving masks of the passengers cruising on the ship's Zodiac boats.

Each newbuild has 3 restaurants with current itinerary-based menus. The pool deck has bars, infinity pool, Jacuzzis. Building materials used during construction were predominantly Norwegian, with extensive use of granite, oak, and wool, among others. WIth max passenger capacity 530 each, the new ships were scheduled for launch in July 2018 and July 2019.

In August 2017, Hurtigruten made an investment of NOK 300 million (USD 39 M) in Kleven Group for a 40% interest. In September 2017, Hurtigruten acquired 40% stocks in Kleven Verft after the shipyard experienced a financial crisis.

Along with Hurtigruten, Kleven Group (parent company for the shipyards Kleven and Myklebust) includes Age Remoy, the Kleven-owned companies John Kleven and H-Invest, the yacht-building company Lurssen (Germany) and the private investor Per Lillebo. Without the newly infused capital, Kleven Shipyard was facing bankruptcy. In June 2018, Hurtigruten became full owner of the shipyard after buying the remaining 60% shares. Under the 2018 deal, Hurtigruten also fully owns the subsidiaries Kleven Maritime Contracting and Kleven Maritime Technology. Following the acquisition, Hurtigruten provided NOK 600 million (USD 75 M) financing in order to facilitate Kleven Verft's shipbuilding capabilities.

Hurtigruten new expedition cruise ship (aft view)

The last time when the company had a newbuild was in 2007 ( MS Fram ).

In early-February 2019, Hurtigruten announced that in 2021 will add 4 old ships to the company's expedition fleet - Spitsbergen (2009), Midnatsol (2003), Trollfjord (2002), Finnmarken (2002). This fleet also includes Fram (2007) and the newbuilds/sisterships Roald Amundsen (2019) and Fridtjof Nansen (2020).

On October 25, 2018, Hurtigruten signed an MoU (memorandum of understanding) with Kleven Verft AS for the construction of a third newbuild (530-passenger expedition vessel) sistership to the hybrid-powered Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. The MoU was signed by Daniel Skjeldam (Hurtigruten Group's and HX' CEO until 2024 June) and Olav Nakken (Kleven Verft's CEO).

In March 2023 the company signed a partnership with SINTEF (Stiftelsen for industriell og teknisk forskning/1950-founded, Trondheim-headquartered independent organization specializing in contract projects/analysis, research, and development) for the design of a new class "zero-emission" ferries for Hurtigruten's Norwegian Coastal Express service. The first ship is planned for inauguration in 2030.

Hurtigruten fleet's LNG and Battery Power upgrades

In April 2018, the company announced a USD 150 million fleet renovation project - Hurtigruten's ever largest. Almost all vessels will be upgraded with new hybrid powerplants that combine LNG-engines (liquefied natural gas) and batteries. For the project was contracted Rolls-Royce Marine, initially for 6 vessels and optional another 3. The program's completion was scheduled before the new coastal service contract (January 1, 2021). The project also includes all boats to be upgraded with shore power capabilities.

In November 2018, Hurtigruten announced its fleet will be powered with LBG (liquified biogas) produced mainly from dead fish using organic-waste recycling methods. LBG is sourced from Norway and other Northern European countries with large fisheries and forestry industries producing big volumes of organic waste. In May 2019, Hurtigruten signed an 8-year deal with Biokraft AS to supply LBG fleetwide.

By 2021, Hurtigruten has six old vessels upgraded with FGSS (fuel gas supply system) and biogas- battery-powered (LBG, LNG, batteries).

  • For this USD 850 million (EUR 770 M) drydock conversion project, in March 2019 was contracted Hoglund Gas Solutions (HGS) - Hamburg -based subsidiary of the Norwegian company Hoglund Marine Automation). Hoglund developed, delivered and installed the FGSS equipment package, while HB Hunte Engineering GmbH designed and engineered the vessels' fuel tanks.
  • Hurtigruten also allocated three boats - Midnatsol (Maud) , Trollfjord (Eirik Raude) , Finnmarken (Otto Sverdrup) - exclusively for cruise shipping operations between homeports Bergen and Kirkenes. These new Norwegian coastal cruises are available for booking by international passengers and not serving Norwegian ferry passengers.
  • Following the project's completion in 2021, the three vessels (Trollfjord, Finnmarken, Midnatsol) were renamed to, respectively, MS Eirik Raude, MS Otto Sverdrup, MS Maud. These ships were also upgraded with hybrid powerplants and equipped with large-capacity battery packs. Starting in 2021, the 3 ships are deployed year-round for Norwegian Coastal cruises.
  • MS Otto Sverdrup (Finnmarken) was drydocked in 2020, while MS Eirik Raude (Trollfjord) and MS Maud (Midnatsol) were drydocked in 2021. The three boats were also significantly refurbished (all interior public spaces and all staterooms) and new suites were added. Their max passenger capacity was reduced to 530.

By 2023, 3x "Norwegian Coastal Express" boats (Kong Harald, Nordlys, Richard With) will undergo drydocks for powerplant conversions (from diesel to battery-hybrid), during which new low-emission diesel engines and large battery packs will be installed.

  • For this project, on May 11, 2021, Hurtigruten signed a contract with Kongsberg Maritime to deliver the hybrid equipment packages.
  • Each ship will be fitted with 2x SAVe Energy storage systems (1,120kWh lithium-ion batteries) controlled via SAVe CUBE (drive switchboards that control the thrusters) and 2x Bergen B33:45V diesel engines (diesel generator sets with SCR-Selective Catalytic Reduction to optimize CO emissions control). The Kongsberg's equipment also includes re-blading of the propellers, installing new thruster motors, AC (current switches), new safety and radio systems.
  • The drydocks will be conducted by Myklebust Verft AS (shipyard in Gursken, Norway).

All Hurtigruten ships now have shoreside-power capabilities (plugs for electricity supply at port berths).

Among the deckplan changes following the drydock refurbishments are:

  • new venues - Expedition Launch (tender boat platform serving passenger embarkation for shore excursions, complete with expedition equipment and boats), Science Center (fitted with high-tech gadgets and top-notch media technologies and served by ship's Expedition Team), new/redesigned wellness complex (relaxation lounge, gym, treatment rooms for massages).
  • Ships' sundeck areas (with outdoor swimming pool/whirlpool) were also upgraded.
  • Three new restaurants were introduced - Restaurant Aune (Main Dining Room serving breakfast, lunch, dinner), Restaurant Lindstrom (new speciality dining venue for contemporary cuisine) and Fredheim (casual eatery). On top deck was added an outdoor grill bar.
  • The onboard art collections were preserved.

Hurtigruten cruise experience

Hurtigruten ships provide comfortable home-like travel experiences while touring the charming cities, islands and mountain scenery of Norway. The atmosphere onboard is casual because these vessels are on a mission to transport traveling locals and freight in addition to the international mix of cruise passengers making a voyage out of it. Most of the Norwegian crew speak English. Tipping is optional, though many guests will remember the ship's dining staff. On the expedition ms Fram, Hurtigruten recommends 50 kroner per day.

Dining, with all meals included for one-way and roundtrip travelers, takes place in a single onboard restaurant. Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style, open-seating, with a good selection of international and Norwegian selections. Dinners are reserved-seat, set-time, 3-course meals. Special dietary requests have to be made in advance. The 24-hour cafe is most often used by travelers making short trips. Liquor is highly taxed. Passengers may bring their own alcohol supply onboard for consumption in cabins.

Apart from an occasional musical group aboard during summertime departures, there is no entertainment scheduled by Hurtigruten. The Arctic Circle crossing ceremony is a rousing show for those guests chosen by King Neptune as victims (ice-cold water initiation) and others spectating. Everyone watches the constantly changing scenery from decks or in the cozy observation lounges and midship bars, while some also play games and read. Norwegian art (sculptures and paintings) decorates the entire fleet.

An extensive tour program is geared to the seasons and includes city walking tours, church and museum visits, dog sledding, birding, kayaking, Lapland cultural tours, and trips to the North Cape. Hurtigruten tours may be pre-booked online. One of the unique features of these voyages is that passengers rotate often, with point-to-point ferry travelers embarking and disembarking along the route.

Itinerary of Hurtigruten

Currently, the company Hurtigruten provides two types of services - ferry (cargo and passenger shipping along Norway's coast) and cruises (global expeditions and Norwegian cruiseferry ).

Hurtigruten Expeditions/HX operates a fleet of small-sized vessels deployed in regions like South America and Antarctica, Alaska, North and Central America, Arctic Norway (Spitsbergen, Svalbard), Atlantic Europe (Iceland and Greenland), Southern Europe (Mediterranean), Canary Islands Spain, Madeira Portugal). HX's current Nautical Itinerary Planner/Marine Operations Officer is Niclas Eriksson.

Galapagos cruises 2024-2025

Starting in January 2022, Hurtigruten Expeditions offer an 8-night/9-day Galapagos Islands itinerary that includes hotel stays in Quito Ecuador (two nights/pre- and post-voyage), 6-nights of cruising (roundtrips from Baltra Island ) and two domestic flights (between Quito and Baltra).

Hurtigruten's Galapagos voyages are operated by the chartered from Metropolitan Touring luxury yacht Santa Cruz 2 (2002-built, last refurbished in 2021). The first Hurtigruten Galapagos cruise was scheduled to depart on January 5, 2022.

Hurtigruten's Galapagos 2024-2025 seasons feature new itineraries and land-stay options.

  • 6-night "Eastern Galapagos"
  • 4-night "Northern Galapagos"
  • 4-night "Western Galapagos"
  • 8-night "Northern and Western Galapagos" ( B2B/back-to-back ).

As a 3-night pre-/post-tour accommodation option for any Galapagos voyage Hurtigruten offers Mashpi Lodge (rainforest luxury hotel, capacity 47 beds) located northwest of Quito.

HX 2025-2026 season

In November 2023, HX (Hurtigruten Expeditions) unveiled its 2025-2026 season, highlighting its commitment to expanding into growth destinations through the introduction of new ports, landings, and itineraries, along with increased emphasis on local integration and community engagement initiatives.

The upcoming season features 80+ itineraries spanning 5 continents, solidifying HX's reputation for pioneering novel and innovative travel experiences in vital expedition regions such as Alaska, Antarctica, Greenland, and the  Northwest Passage .

Notable Highlights:

Greenland: HX's most extensive Greenland season to date involves the addition of a 4th vessel,  MS Spitsbergen . The company is among the first to operate from Nuuk's new airport, with the launch of four itineraries, including 'Grand Greenland' voyages originating from and concluding in Nuuk. This development reduces transit times, allowing passengers to immediately immerse themselves in Greenland's wildlife and landscapes. Furthermore, the itineraries along Greenland's west coast feature enhanced community engagement, building upon the recently announced partnership between HX's sister brand, Hurtigruten, and the local Arctic Umiaq Line.

Iceland: HX is set to offer two new Icelandic itineraries, both departing from  Reykjavik . The company made history by becoming the first cruise line to connect to shoreside electricity in Iceland this fall.

Northwest Passage and Arctic Canada: In 2025, HX introduces four new Arctic Canada sailings, all originating from or concluding at the new port in  Nuuk, Greenland . These voyages encompass two Northwest Passage crossings, allowing travelers to experience this renowned route.

Antarctica: HX offers 50 departures to Antarctica, marking the largest-ever offering in this destination. The company's Science & Education program continues to support numerous projects and research endeavors in the region.

Svalbard: HX introduces exclusive spring itineraries, allowing guests to explore Svalbard as it emerges from the polar winter into spring.

Alaska: HX's  MS Roald Amundsen , the world's first  battery hybrid-powered ship , continues to serve guests for its 5th season in Alaska.

West Africa: HX plans to return to West Africa, where it is expected to be the sole cruise line offering exclusive voyages to the archipelagos of Cape Verde and the Bissagos Islands.

"Svalbard Express" and "North Cape Express" voyages 2023

In 2023, Hurtigruten offers with MS Trollfjord two new for the company voyages themed as "Svalbard Express" and "North Cape Express". The new itineraries are an upgraded extension to the Norwegian Coastal Express, also featuring longer in-port stays (half-day or full-day), special onboard events and exclusive amenities (all-day dining, afternoon tea service, takeaway service, cooking classes, alcoholic beverages tastings, cocktail bar, live entertainment).

Svalbard Express (June 3 - Sept 9, 2023) is priced from USD 4960 pp. North Cape Express (departing on September 26, 2023) is priced from USD 2457 pp.

The 14-night/15-day "Svalbard Express" itinerary is a Bergen roundtrip that follows the original coastal routes operated by Hurtigruten in the period 1968-1982, visiting the archipelagos Lofoten and Vesteralen, as well as Nordkapp and Spitsbergen Island ( Svalbard Archipelago ). Svalbard Express' call ports include Andalsnes, Traena, Stokmarknes, Tromso, Honningsvag, Bjornoya/Bear Island (coastal cruising), Spitsbergen ( Longyearbyen , Ny-Alesund ), Tromso, Senja Island, Svolvaer, Bronnoysund, Alesund, Urke/Hjorundfjord, Bergen.

Svalbard Express is also offered as a 7-day one-way either Kirkenes-Longyearbyen or Longyearbyen-Kirkenes. Both one-way packages are inclusive of a 2-night hotel in Longyearbyen, 2x land excursions, an evening at Camp Barentz's cabin, as well as catamaran cruising (MS Bard/hybrid-electric passenger ship, 2020-built/IMO 9892248).

The 14-night/15-day "North Cape Express" departs from Oslo (overnight) and ends in Bergen (overnight) visiting Kristiansand, Farsund, Haugesund, Hardangerfjord (cruising), Alesund, Bronnoysund, Svolvaer, Stokmarknes, Tromso, Honningsvag, Alta, Lodingen, Rorvik, Molde, Kristiansund, Bergen.

Norwegian Coastal Express cruises (Hurtigruten and Havila Voyages)

Hurtigruten's new coastal Norway excursions program implements expedition teams. More than 35 of these voyages are new, along with the company's existing shore excursions and themed activities.

Next is the cruise ship itinerary map showing the Norwegian Coastal Express (ferry route) operated by Hurtigruten and Havila Voyages (since 2021).

The list of all ports along the northbound "Norwegian Coastal Express" itinerary includes Bergen (turnaround port), Alesund , Floro , Geiranger (Stranda) , Maloy (Vagsoy) , Molde , Torvik (Heroy, Leinoya Island) , Kristiansund , Rorvik (Vikna) , Trondheim , Bodo , Bronnoysund (Bronnoy) , Nesna , Ornes (Meloy) , Sandnessjoen (Alstahaug) , Stamsund (Vestvagoy Island) , Svolvaer (Vagan, Austvagoya Island) , Trollfjorden (Hadsel) , Finnsnes (Lenvik) , Harstad (Hinnoya Island) , Risoyhamn (Andoy Island) , Skjervoy , Sortland (Langoya Island) , Stokmarknes (Hadseloya Island) , Tromso , Berlevag , Hammerfest , Honningsvag (Mageroya Island , Nordkapp / North Cape ), Kjollefjord (Lebesby) , Mehamn (Gamvik) , Oksfjord (Loppa) , Batsfjord , Vardo (Vardoya Island) , Kirkenes (turnaround port).

Next table shows Hurtigruten's 11-night / 12-day "Classic Norwegian Coastal Voyage" itinerary roundtrip from Bergen. Prices in 2020 started at ~USD $1900 per person (double-occupancy cabin rates).

Adventure cruisers can expect the unexpected with Hurtigruten, offering:

  • A record number of authentic Norwegian excursions (3-day and 4-day cruise extensions) are offered, ranging from gentle strolls to energetic hikes, and from nature-themed tours to urban exploration - onshore and by ship.
  • Professional expedition teams interpret the wildlife, nature, and culture along the coast during onboard lectures and port talks.
  • "Young Explorers" kids activity program is custom-tailored (on selected ships and cruises only).
  • Kids-friendly tours/excursions specifically designed for children ages 7-13 yo
  • New astronomy-themed cruises offer stargazing excursions (first introduced in 2018).
  • A locally-sourced onboard food menu mirrors Norway's rugged coastline.
  • The company offers convenient dates for year-round Norwegian cruise departures. Hurtigruten is one of the ever best options to book the unique "Northern Lights" cruises.

Hurtigruten's coastal expedition excursions accommodate all activity levels and ages. They range from the midnight concert (in Tromso's Arctic Cathedral) to exploring Kristiansund mountains by dogsledding with Alaskan huskies. Adventurers are even able to chase the Northern Lights during snowmobile safaris between the ports Kjollefjord and Mehamn.

Among the other excursions on the daily coastal voyages between Bergen to Kirkenes, are themed:

  • Discover Norway's 2nd largest glacier
  • Catch, prepare and eat king crabs
  • Explore the most powerful tidal current in the world on a RIB-boat safari.

Expedition hosts of the coast are available on 9 out of 11 Hurtigruten ships. Onboard experts share their first-hand knowledge of natural phenomena, wildlife, landscapes, and history. They also enhance cruise tourists' experiences by a variety of activities and interpreting the natural and cultural treasures encountered along the ferry route.

Hurtigruten passengers can also enjoy touring mainland Norway by adding port stays (3 or 4 days) in one of 6 featured port cities (prior to or after the voyage). In Bronnoysund , Tromso , and Trondheim , passengers can take "naturban" mini-expeditions on explorer boats while the cruise ship is docked in port.

Hurtigruten announced it will offer roundtrip voyages from Port Dover UK in winter 2021-2022, which is a first in the company's 126-year history. Also revealed were 12-day "Norway Expedition" cruises (between October 2021-March 2022) departing out of Dover and visiting ports along Norway's coast. The itineraries are on MS Maud (currently MS Trollfjord ). Passengers can participate in complimentary activities each day, allowing them to explore the history, culture, and wildlife of the destinations visited. Hurtigruten also increased the number of its expedition team members sailing onboard the cruise ship in order to provide lectures and additional information.

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Routes North - Nordic travel guide

Hurtigruten cruises in Norway: what you need to know

An adventurous way to experience the full splendour and drama of the Norwegian coastline is to view it from one of the iconic Hurtigruten ships.

MS Polarys on the Hurtigruten

The 12-night round trip from Bergen to Kirkenes passes some of the world’s most sublime landscapes, docking at some of Norway’s remotest settlements. It may be pricey – but we think this journey is definitely one for the bucket list.

How to pronounce Hurtigruten

First things first: what is that word all about? The word Hurtigruten means “express route” or “rapid route” and the most usual way to pronounce it is “ hurti-rerten ”, without the “g” .

What makes the Hurtigruten trips different?

Subsidised by the Norwegian government, Hurtigruten ships have been plying the Norwegian coast for more than 120 years, providing a vital lifeline to settlements that were otherwise inaccessible by road or rail.

There are 14 Hurtigruten ships in all, though only nine regularly run the full route, taking valuable supplies to the country’s remote outposts.

So what’s a Hurtigruten cruise like?

While the boats still carry out their original function as essential supply ships, they also carry visitors and tourists.

The ships vary in their level of comfort and facilities – and correspondingly, price – but all are well-adapted to cover the 1500-mile journey through Arctic waters in all weathers.

Where can you go on a Hurtigruten cruise in Norway?

Hurtigruten boat in the Geirangefjord

The full Hurtigruten cruise runs along the Norwegian coast from Bergen to Kirkenes in the Arctic Circle, stopping at 36 ports on its way, then the same on the way back down.

The ports vary in size from Norway’s third largest city, Trondheim, to the tiny village of Risøyhamn, which has just 203 inhabitants.

In summer, the northbound ships sail into the Unesco-listed Geirangerfjord , while in autumn they explore the beautiful Hjørundfjorden.

Hurtigruten also runs an expedition off-shoot with cruises to far-flung destinations, such as Svalbard, Antarctica, the Galapagos islands, the Falkland Islands, Alaska, Greenland and Iceland.

Tips for making the most of your cruise: 

  • Reserve any tours that you really want to do in advance, as popular ones get booked up fast. All others, you can book on the boat.
  • Save money by doing your own walking tours. It’s easy to explore towns such as Trondheim, Tromsø and Ålesund on foot yourself, and save yourself the cost of the official walking tour.
  • Try to avoid a cabin at the back of the ship, as it can be noisy at night when the cargo is loaded and unloaded.
  • Bring your own booze! You are allowed to bring up to one and half litres of alcohol with you – so that’s four bottles of wine between two people. Bearing in mind, the cheapest bottle on board will set you back 665 NOK (thats £50!), so you can save a small fortune.
  • Check the website for which ships have which facilities before you book, especially if you want specific features such an an on-deck hot tub.

How do Hurtigruten cruises work, then?

A Hurtigruten ship leaves Bergen every day, right throughout the year, stopping at towns such as Ålesund, Trondheim, Bodø and Tromsø en route to Kirkenes, where it heads back south.

You can either book the full 13-day round-trip; a seven-day Bergen to Kirkenes cruise; or a six-day Kirkenes to Bergen cruise.

Alternatively, you can book individual port-to-port legs if you just want to use the boat as a way of hopping from one destination to the next.

How long do Hurtigruten boats spend in each port?

One of the Hurtigruten boats at Kirkenes port in Norway

The amount of time you’ll have at each port varies depending on the size of the settlement and the time of day that you arrive.

Ships can spend six hours in Trondheim during the day, for example, but only 15 minutes in tiny Måløy, where they can dock in the early hours of the morning.

The schedules are arranged (as far as possible) so that ports which are visited at night on the northward journey will be visited by day on the way back down.

What about side trips and excursions?

If the boat is spending 30 minutes or longer at a port, you are free to disembark and explore on your own.

Alternatively, you can book an organised excursion, which can be anything from dog-sledging in Tromso or horse-riding in the Lofoten Islands to quad-biking to the Russian border.

Some trips, such as the drive along the Trollstigen, may take the longer than the boat docking time. As long as you’ve booked an official tour with Hurtigruten, you’ll be transferred to the ship’s next point of call in time for its departure.

Excursions and activities can be booked online or by phone at the booking centre (UK number: 0203 603 7112).

You can also book on the boat itself, if there are any spaces left. All trips booked on the boat itself are payable in Norwegian kroner.

How to book the Hurtigruten port-to-port

It is possible to book individual legs of the journey through the port-to-port page of the Hurtigruten website. 

Combining short hops on the Hurtigruten boats with bus and train travel can be a fun way of exploring the Norwegian coastline, but it’s not particularly cheap.

The three-hour trip from Alesunde to Molde, for example, starts from around 430 NOK per person.

You don’t need to book a cabin for any trip under 23 hours, so you can keep costs down by snoozing on deck or in a chair.

Can I take my car on the Hurtigruten ships?

All the ships except MS Lofoten and MS Spitsbergen carry cars, though none take caravans and camper vans.

Taking your car for a short hop on the Hurtigruten can save hours of driving over mountain passes and along indented fjords, though again it’s not a particularly cheap option.

If you need to catch a specific boat, you’ll need to book well in advance as the boats only have limited spaces for cars.

What are Hurtigruten ships like inside?

A cross between a cruise ship and passenger ferry, the boats are smaller than most cruise liners. They have an informal, relaxed vibe on board, with no set dress code in the restaurants.

This means you can focus on packing practical stuff for the trip (like comfy clothes and outdoor gear) without needing to worry about dressy clothes for the evenings – unless you’d like to, of course!

What are Hurtigruten cruises like?

Whale watching on the Hurtigruten

If you’re after a classic luxury cruise with cabaret entertainment, ten types of restaurant and waterslides on deck, this is not for you.

The emphasis is less on luxury and more on appreciating the natural surroundings and the environment.

The onboard entertainment is also low-key, consisting of star-gazing, wildlife-watching and looking out for the northern lights, plus the odd lecture on local habitats and culture.

Are Hurtigruten cruises all-inclusive?

The classic all-inclusive excursions are sold with all meals included, though wine and beer are extra.

But if you book a shorter trip or are travelling port-to-port, you have the option of adding and paying for food in advance. You can either opt for breakfast only, half-board or full-board.

Alternatively, you can pay-as-you-go to eat in the a la carte restaurant, or in the café that sells sandwiches, pizzas, burgers and hot dogs.

Restaurants on the Hurtigruten boats are known for their good food and specialise in dishes made from local, sustainable and seasonal produce.

The boats pick up ingredients from ports along the way, so the fish and seafood is literally fresh from the water.

What to pack for a Hurtigruten cruise

What you pack depends, of course, on what time of year you’re travelling and how active you intend to be onshore.

Bearing in mind that the boats sail into the Arctic Circle, you’ll certainly need thermal clothing, a thick coat, hat and gloves in winter.

If you’re planning any hikes or excursions, such as skiing, Rib rides or king crab fishing, make sure you bring suitable clothing.

Which Hurtigruten ship is best?

watching the scenery through panoramic windows on the MS Finnmarken

Well, that depends on what you want from your cruise. The oldest Hurtigruten ship that regularly runs the Bergen to Kirkenes route is the MS Vesterålen. 

Built in 1983, its facilities are basic, though the cabins were refurbished in 2022.

The MS Kong Harald and the MS Richard With have both been in service since 1993 and, along with the MS Vesterålen, tend to be the cheapest ships to travel on.

Both have been refurbished more recently, however, and the Kong Harald now has two on-deck hot tubs and a sauna. 

Both have also been recently converted to low-emission hybrid ships.

If you’re after a bit more luxury, opt for the newest ship, the luxurious, eco-friendly hybrid MS Fridtjof Nansen. 

It has an infinity pool and hot tub, smart cabins (half of which have private balconies), a science centre, three restaurants and a cocktail bar.

However, it only runs the Bergen to Kirkenes route at certain times of the year, heading off to far-flung destinations sauce as Antarctica and the Falklands at other times of the year.

Which Hurtigruten ships have balconies?

The MS Maud, the MS Trollfjord, the MS Fram, MS Otto Sverdrup and the MS Spitsbergen all have a few cabins with balconies, though you’ll have to pay extra for a top-of-the-range cabin to guarantee one with a balcony.

On the newest ships, the MS Fridtjof Nansen and MS Roald Amundsen, around half the cabins have balconies.

How much do Hurtigruten trips cost?

It really depends where you want to go, and whether you want to include flights.

For example, prices for the classic 13-day full-board round trip including flights from London and full-board start at around £1700 per person (approx 22,500 NOK at the time of writing). 

A one-way northbound 7-day full-board journey without flights starts from around £1180 (15,600 NOK).

Erm… why are Hurtigruten trips so expensive?

waterfalls, moutainsides and fjords can be seen from the Hurtigruten

A Hurtigruten cruise is not a cheap option.

On top of the basic price, you’ll pay extra if you want to upgrade to an outside or balcony cabin, or to a more luxurious ship – and booking a couple of excursions will add yet more to the cost.

And don’t even think about having a drink; alcohol on-board is very pricey.

Having said that, if you’re happy with basic facilities, doing your own thing onshore and simply watching the dramatic scenery drift by, you needn’t spend much on board.

On port-to-port trips you can save money by buying food at the café or eating on shore and bringing sandwiches back with you – though, this being Norway, even this option is not cheap.

What is the Hurtigruten northern lights promise?

If you do the 12-day Hurtigruten cruise between 26 September and 31 March, you’re pretty likely to see the northern lights at some point. 

Watching the northern lights from the Hurtigruten

In fact, the company is so sure of this, that if they don’t appear during the trip, they’ll give you another free six- or seven-day trip free of charge.

You can read more about seeing the northern lights in Norway here.

Where are the Hurtigruten ferry terminals?

Which are the best sections of the hurtigruten .

If you don’t fancy doing the full route, or are short of time, you can book shorter sections of the journey or custom-make your own port-to-port trip. Here are some of the best stretches of the route.

Svolvær to Honningsvåg

This is our favourite stretch of the Hurtigruten route. A two-night trip, the ship sails along the beautiful Lofoten and Vesterålen islands, with their rugged mountains, pretty fishing villages and sandy beaches. 

Svolvær to Honningsvåg is our favourite stretch of the Hurtigruten

You may spot whales and seals as you cruise past the northern fjords and islands, stopping in at the Arctic city of Tromsø.

You’ll then continuing north to the small fishing settlement of Honningsvåg, gateway to North Cape – the northernmost point of mainland Europe.

The Helgeland coast

We also really like the Helgeland coast, which stretches from the town of Rørvik in the Vikna archipelago up to Ørnes. 

On this stretch the boat sails past the beautiful Vega islands, some 6,500 island and islets with UNESCO Heritage status, the dramatic Seven Sisters mountains and the pretty fishing villages of Sandnessjøen and Nesna.

It’s an overnight journey northbound, so make sure you do this journey southbound to make the most of the scenery. The Hurtigruten leaves Ørnes at 6.30am and arrives in Rørvik at 9pm, so you can spend all day watching the Helgeland coast pass by. 

The pros and cons of the Hurtigruten

So we know a trip on the Hurtigruten is expensive, but is worth it? Here are the pros and cons of booking a cruise on the Hurtigruten.

  • The beautiful scenery.
  • The food – all meals use local and seasonal ingredients, especially if you eat at the a la carte restaurant.
  • The ships are small, traditional and simple, with no large nightclubs and entertainment facilities.
  • You are guaranteed to see the northern lights on cruises in winter – and if you don’t, you get another cruise for free.
  • These are working boats which can be noisy at night when cargo is being loaded and unloaded.
  • Excursions can be cancelled at short notice due to bad weather.
  • The ships stop at some ports for just half an hour, or during the night, so you’re not able to get off everywhere.
  • It’s expensive, especially once you factor in food and excursions.

Alternatives to the Hurtigruten

Plenty of mainstream cruise liners offer Norwegian fjords cruises , but they don’t normally have the option to book port-to-port legs.

Norwegian company Havila runs the full-day 12-day return trip between Bergen and Kirkenses, and also allows port-to-port bookings for shorter hops.

Havila prides itself on its eco-credentials with four new hybrid ships, all fitted with batteries large enough that they can run for four hours with zero emissions and can be recharged en-route.

All the ships are less than five years old, and have large picture windows and sleek IKEA-style decor. And when they are running on electricity they have the advantage of being very quiet.

With on-deck hot tubs and a sauna (that are heated from excess heat from the ship), two restaurants and a café, and a panoramic glass-roofed lounge, the ships are comfortable and well-designed to make the most of the scenery.

We like the fact that all meals are included in the rate, so there are no hidden extras.

We also like that the website includes a clear itinerary detailing what time the ships stop at each port, for how long and whether it’s daylight or nighttime. 

However, unlike the Hurtigruten, they don’t run every day, so you’ll need to check the schedule to see if the timings are right for you.

But, if you’re looking for an alternative to the Hurtigruten, we think they’re worth considering.

Read more: Seeing the northern lights in Norway Norway’s best fjords Glaciers worth visiting in Norway

Amanda Tomlin

6 of the best small Danish islands (and how to visit them)

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I experience the full 12 night cruise in March a couple of years ago. Totally amazing a true ‘bucket ‘ list experience. Not cheap but worth every penny

cruise line hurtigruten

Antarctica Cruises

Book early for 2025 and 2026 sailings to Antarctica and save up to 40% with the HX Price Promise*.

Go with the global leader in expeditions to Antarctica

Nothing compares to an Antarctica expedition. For many, exploring this vast, frozen continent is a once-in-a-lifetime dream. To cross the Drake Passage and reach the last great frontier - a place where sun glints off pristine ice and wildlife reigns supreme - is truly life-changing. And that's why you'll want to do it with the experts. At HX, we've been exploring Antarctica for over 20 years, and we do so in sustainable style, with a world-leading science program that actively helps the fragile ecosystems we explore.

20 years and counting

We've been exploring the White Continent expedition-style for over 20 years, so for the best cruises to Antarctica choose HX.

Explore Antarctica in 2025/2026 on our small, well-equipped, hybrid expedition ships, where safety and sustainability come first. PLUS with our Price Promise, if you find the same cabin available for a lower price after you've booked, let us know and we'll give you back the difference.

Meet the locals

The seas and shores around Antarctica teem with wildlife. See colonies of penguins, graceful whales and curious seals. On a trip to Antarctica, you'll marvel at pristine panoramas of snowy mountains, wind-sculpted icebergs and mighty glaciers.

The krill-rich waters around the White Continent support abundant wildlife: from humpback whales and fur seals to albatrosses and penguins. An estimated population of 12 million penguins of several species call the Antarctic Peninsula home.

Exploring Antarctica

An all-inclusive cruise to Antarctica with HX means entering explorer mode. You’ll join our experienced Expedition Team in small launches as we go on shore landings and seek out wildlife.

Other activities include kayaking, snowshoeing, camping, and perhaps even a polar plunge if you want to experience a pure Antarctic rush!

We go beyond Antarctica, with South Georgia, the Falkland Islands, Patagonia and more included on many of our voyages.

A symphony of ice and sky

Experience the tranquility of vast panoramas and sail among the sublime frozen icescapes of Antarctica, as we pass between icebergs, close to calving glaciers, and past huge ice floes in the Southern Ocean.

Cruises to Antarctica

In-depth Antarctica & Patagonia Expedition | Southbound | An Audubon Voyage

In-depth Antarctica & Patagonia Expedition | Southbound | An Audubon Voyage

In-depth Antarctica & Patagonia Expedition | Southbound

In-depth Antarctica & Patagonia Expedition | Southbound

Antarctica & Patagonia Expedition | Southbound

Antarctica & Patagonia Expedition | Southbound

MS Roald Amundsen MS Fridtjof Nansen

Antarctica Neko Harbour HGR 166590 Photo Yuri Matisse Choufour

Adventure is All-Inclusive

An HX trip includes everything from daily excursions and activities to our onboard Science Center, meals, gratuities, drinks and more. ​ All designed to give you the expedition experience of a lifetime.

Active exploration

On an HX expedition cruise to Antarctica, you’ll be an explorer not a passenger. Cross the Drake Passage and explore expedition-style as we seek out remote landing sites for nature encounters.

Activities in Antarctica

On your all-inclusive cruise to Antarctica you'll get closer to the Seventh Continent than you ever dreamed. Experience the magic as you step off your expedition boat and feel the crunch of snow beneath your boots. Guided by your Expedition Team, you'll be able to paddle through icestrewn waters, photograph penguins and whales guided by our expert photographer, hike across pristine landscapes wearing snowshoes, and perhaps take a polar plunge if you're feeling brave. For a lucky few, camping in tents overnight is the ultimate Antarctic experience.

cruise line hurtigruten

Snowshoeing

When the conditions are right, there's no better way to cross the frozen terrain than by wearing snowshoes. Our modern equipment makes it easy to walk on the soft snow, and the elements are usually best during our late spring and early summer Antarctica cruises.

cruise line hurtigruten

Hear the beautiful 'symphony of the ice' as you glide silently past nature's frozen works of art in a sea kayak. Designed for close-up polar exploration, there's no better way to encounter the wildlife of Antarica and to enjoy its soul-stirring scenery.

cruise line hurtigruten

Camping | Amundsen Night

Spend a magical night camping in a tent on the shore in Antarctica. In the style of the early explorers, we use our specialized equipment to spend the night under the stars for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. As you might expect, camping is a popular activity and numbers are limited. Who gets to go usually has to be decided by a lottery system. Feeling lucky?

* Please note that these are optional activities; an additional cost may apply.

Wildlife on ice

Even in the extreme environment of Antarctica, life not only survives but thrives. Its icy seas, isolated icebergs and snow-driven deserts are home to wildlife that surprises and charms.

Wildlife in Antarctica

Nowhere on Earth feels as remote as Antarctica, yet the wildlife here is abundant and spectacular. The icy shores are a haven for millions of penguins, as well as seals and seabirds, while the deep blue waters support a huge population of whales. Your Expedition Team will help you spot and photograph iconic animals, and there will be lectures on ornithology and natural history from our wildlife experts. In the Science Center you'll learn more, and perhaps even help out with wildlife conservation through out Citizen Science projects.

Where science and learning meet nature

Science is at the core of our voyage into the heart of the natural world in Antarctica. Learn about geology, climatology and ornitholgy, and collect samples and take part in experiments with our onboard scientific experts.

Your Antarctica Expedition Team

You're in the best hands with your onboard Expedition Team. Handpicked experts from a range of backgrounds, you'll soon discover their passion and energy for Antarctica is infectious. They'll lead you on adventures off the ship, deliver fascinating lectures, unlock nature's wonders in the Science Center, and perhaps even entertain you along the way. On your cruise to Antarctica, the Expedition Team will be your companions in adventure.

Expedition Ships | The perfect balance

Our state-of-the-art expedition vessels feature hybrid propulsion technology, ice-class hulls and advanced onboard waste-reduction systems. Large enough to offer excellent stability and a spacious onboard experience, yet small enough to get off the beaten track, you'll discover that HX ships are the perfect balance for the ultimate Antarctic adventure.

MS-Fram-Antarctica-HGR-106890-Photo_Photo_Competition.JPG

Purpose-built as an expedition cruise ship, MS Fram is an exceptional base camp for explorers.On board, comfort is a top priority, so after a day of exploration you can relax in a hot tub ,dine in your choice of two restaurants or at the outdoor BBQ and catch up with your fellow guests with a cocktail in hand as you watch the scenery glide past in the Explorer Lounge & Bar. In the Science Centre, at the heart of the ship, you’ll discover more about the places you sail to and listen to talks by the Expedition Team.  With key expedition features and technology, MS Fram is primed to bring you on a journey of discovery to our planet’s most alluring and unspoiled regions. 

MS Fridtjof Nansen, Antarctica. Photo: Espen Mills

MS Fridtjof Nansen

The newest addition to our fleet will honor the heritage of her namesake – the Norwegian explorer, scientist, humanitarian and Nobel Peace Prize laureate Fridtjof Nansen. Known for his innovations in Arctic expeditions, Nansen led the first crossing of Greenland on cross-country skis. He is perhaps most famous for his attempt to reach the geographical North Pole during the Fram Expedition (1893-1896). Interestingly, after Nansen's Fram expedition, the ship was passed on to another great explorer who secretly planned an expedition to the South Pole - Roald Amundsen.

Paradise-Bay-Antarctica-HGR-152880-Photo_Oscar_Farrera.jpg

MS Roald Amundsen

Named after the first man to cross Antarctica and to reach the South Pole, MS Roald Amundsen leads the way towards an even more sustainable way of travelling. The ship is specially constructed for voyages in polar waters. It serves as a comfortable base camp at sea – bringing adventurers from all over the world to the most spectacular destinations in the most sustainable way.

Make a difference

Support the scientific community in collecting valuable data on Antarctica that contributes to global research by participating in our Citizen Science Programme.

Stories from Antarctica

MS Roald Amundsen anchoured in Paradise Bay during an expedition cruise to Antarctica. Credit: Oscar Farrera / HX Hurtigruten Expedition.

Explore Antarctica with HX

Antarctica is the pinnacle of expedition and adventure travel! Start planning your journey to exploring this pristine world of ice, wildlife, and awe-inspiring beauty.

Danco Island, Antarctica - Photo Credit: Espen Mills

15 Interesting Facts About Antarctica

On the southern-most tip of the planet rests one of the world's most massive and mysterious landmasses - the frozen realm of Antarctica.

Drake Passage

Incredible Facts about the Drake Passage

Discover the Drake Passage, one of the world’s most fabled waterways and a must-do for every adventurer en route to Antarctica.

Penguins on Galindez Island, Antarctica. Photo: Ingemund Skålnes

Antarctica is the only continent with no significant plant life and no native land mammals, reptiles, or amphibians. Even in the extreme environment of Antarctica, life not only survives but thrives. Its icy seas, isolated icebergs and snow-driven deserts are home to wildlife that surprise and charm all who visit them.

Penguins perched on the ice of Cuverville Island, Antarctica. Credit: Espen Mills / HX Hurtigruten Expeditions

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Hurtigruten Joins ‘Made in Norway’ to Promote National Excellence

  • August 24, 2024

Hedda Felin

Hurtigruten is now a key participant in the “Made in Norway” initiative, a campaign launched by the Norwegian government and Innovation Norway to promote the country’s craftsmanship, authenticity, and sustainability globally, according to a press release.

The initiative, which officially launched on August 21, 2024, in Oslo, aims to highlight the best of Norwegian products and services.

Hurtigruten is one of the 22 Norwegian brands selected to carry the “Made in Norway” certification, a trademark designed to enhance the international competitiveness of Norwegian products.

“Hurtigruten is the ultimate travel brand to represent Made in Norway around the world,” said Hurtigruten CEO Hedda Felin. “With our 131 years of operations and long-time ambitions for more sustainable solutions, no other brand knows, highlights, or supports the Norwegian coast and its amazing local communities as we do.”

Innovation Norway CEO Håkon added: “The Made in Norway label of origin is an important part of the government’s initiative to strengthen and increase Norwegian exports. We are proud that Hurtigruten is one of the early adopters of the label.”

Hurtigruten’s participation in “Made in Norway” coincides with its ongoing “Live the Legend of Norway” campaign, solidifying its role in promoting Norwegian culture.

The company said it plans to incorporate the “Made in Norway” branding across its global channels, emphasizing its commitment to displaying Norwegian excellence to the world.

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Witness The Iconic Northern Lights On This Cruise Line That Promises Views

Northern lights in Norway

For many of us, seeing the northern lights is on our travel bucket list . But unless you live near the Arctic Circle year-round, it will take some work and luck to see them. There are solar activity predictions, but there's no 100% guarantee when it comes to Mother Nature. When you have a limited time frame for your vacation, and you're booking far in advance, you may have to take the gamble that you could end up returning home disappointed. But there's one cruise line that's helping ensure that its passengers see the northern lights — Hurtigruten. The company is based in Norway, one of those destinations that give you a better chance of seeing those sometimes elusive northern lights . They will give you a free six or seven-night cruise with them if you don't see the northern lights.

Of course, there are some caveats. On their website , they outline the free cruise offer. You have to be on one of their 11-day or more cruises, it has to be the right time of year to see the northern lights (late September through March), and there can't have been any auroral activity visible from the ship in general — it can't just be that you didn't see the lights, they can't have happened at all.

Hurtigruten cruises into the Arctic Circle are ideal for seeing the northern lights

A cruise ship making its way through Norwegian fjords

Hurtigruten has been in business since 1893, and was originally created to help give Norwegians living along the coast better access to goods and more freedom of movement. Since then, they've expanded, and they have nine ships.  While some cruise lines have thousands of people on board, all of the Hurtigruten ships are for fewer than 500 passengers, allowing for a more intimate experience.

Their aptly named "Follow the northern lights" routes will give you a good chance of seeing those incredible dancing ribbons of light. Taking you along the coasts of Norway and Finland over two weeks between December and March, you should have lots of good viewing options. They have staff on the lookout, and they'll give a ship-wide announcement if the lights are out.

They also have an "Astronomy Voyage," which heads north into the Arctic Circle over the two-week voyage. So if you're looking for a chance to both see the northern lights and learn more about the cosmos from experts along the way, this would be a perfect fit. While seeing the lights might one of your main reasons for booking, you can also expect to marvel at the beautiful scenery throughout the day, along with all kinds of excursion options, like kayaking, museum visits, and cultural hikes.

Plan ahead to get the best chance of seeing the northern lights on your cruise

Northern lights in Alaska

Cruises in general are a particularly great place to see the lights, since you're far away from the ambient light of cities. There are some other ways that you can maximize your chances of seeing the northern lights on your cruise, even if it isn't with Hurtigruten. If you can't make it to Europe, Alaska cruises can be a great choice. Make sure to book for the winter months, as nights will be longer with more time to see the lights –  a voyage timed near the autumnal or vernal equinox may give you an even better chance.

Get an app on your phone that will alert you to the possibility of auroral activity in your area so you don't end up sleeping through the colorful spectacle. Keep in mind that you may get an alert but not see anything when you go outside. If so, take pictures with your phone — you might be able to see the sky lighting up that way since your phone camera is more sensitive than your eye.

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cruise line hurtigruten

A Cruise Through West Africa Reframed My Expectations of My Homeland

T he rapidly brightening sky was painted with swaths of orange, pink, and yellow. The early-morning light revealed a city that seemed to be little more than a patchwork of haphazardly planned mid-rise buildings in varying states of repair, punctuated with sprawling bushes, trees quivering in the morning breeze, and lawns sloping toward the nearby sea. The nocturnal beep-beep of tree frogs gave way to the insistent chirp of morning birds that rose from the trees to swoop across the sky like animated chevrons. As I watched the Senegalese sunrise on my first day in Africa , I was vibrating with anticipation. Dakar was waking up, and I was here to witness it.

In 2018 I was gifted a DNA testing kit. Although I was born in the UK , I am also Caribbean —my mother is Barbadian and my father is Jamaican . But it had never occurred to me to consider what had happened before the islands. The results showed that 29 percent of my DNA came from Nigeria , 29 percent from Scotland , and the remaining 42 percent from the Ivory Coast, Ghana , Benin, Togo, Mali , and Cameroon. These clues to my ancestry ignited my desire to finally visit the continent. Would Africa feel like “home”?

The opportunity arose last fall, courtesy of HX Hurtigruten Expeditions , the sister brand to Norway 's Hurtigruten cruise line, which sails to places like the Galápagos Islands . The company had debuted its West Africa route as part of an effort to offer more warm-weather destinations that spotlight rich ecosystems and cultures. (This route is currently on hold per instability in the region.) We were to sail round trip from Dakar to Cape Verde , Guinea-Bissau's Bissagos Islands, and the Gambia .

My first morning in Dakar, I sipped my coffee and watched guests—more than half of them Black—circle the buffet at my hotel, the Pullman Dakar Teranga . This could have been the Jamaica Pegasus , a classic Kingston business hotel where sharp-suited men and perfectly coiffed women take morning meetings. But rather than Jamaican cornmeal porridge, they were spooning lakh, a Senegalese version made with millet. And replacing ackee and saltfish was thieboudienne, a one-pot concoction of seasoned rice, fish, and vegetables that is Senegal's own national dish.

Later that night I boarded MS Spitsbergen and settled into the stateroom on the 220-passenger expedition ship that would be my home for the next 14 days. We'd have excursions in each port that focused on the area's wildlife, history, and more. After a day at sea, I was eager to explore Santiago, our first port of call about 400 miles from Dakar, one of three Cape Verde islands we'd visit.

As I strolled Santiago 's ficus-shaded streets, bordered with buildings erected by the Portuguese in the 17th century, observing residents whose skin color ranged from milky coffee to espresso, that sense of familiarity returned. These were faces I was used to seeing all across the Caribbean, from Havana to Trinidad ; the style of buildings was common in Caribbean capitals from San Juan to Bridgetown.

Later we visited Santo Antão, where the mountainous landscape crisscrossed with winding roads, foamy waves crashing against black-sand beaches, and stalks of sugarcane swaying in warm breezes all looked so Caribbean to me. From my conversations with our guides, it became clear that island people share a vibe, no matter which side of the Atlantic their islands are on. Whatever our station in life, we have an innate confidence that comes from being big fish in small ponds, our sense of agency inversely proportionate to the size of our homes. And although I don't speak Portuguese, I recognized the animated way people here spoke to one another, with enthusiastic hand gestures and voices so loud that outsiders might mistake conversation for argument.

The next day, on the island of Fogo , a hiking excursion across jet-black lava fields to the crater of Pico de Fogo, its still-active volcano, was novel as well as challenging. But as the Spitsbergen pulled away from Fogo, the sharp outline of its mountains blurring with every mile, I couldn't shake the feeling that nothing in Cape Verde had delivered the Africa I'd imagined. The islands felt familiar, yes, but disappointingly so.

Although I didn't see the Africa I expected, some of what I saw affected me deeply. Just off Senegal's coast on Gorée Island, once the world's largest trading post of enslaved Africans, I was moved to tears at the Door of No Return, the final site through which an estimated 20 million of my ancestors were forced before boarding ships to the New World. It was a sobering place to begin our cruise, but an essential one, I felt, to put the rest of our journey into appropriate context. I left not just with sadness about what I'd seen but also with a huge sense of pride that I'm part of a race that not only survived such unspeakable brutality but thrived despite it.

Ending my trip, I realized that I too had unconsciously bought into common stereotypes. I hadn't been expecting landscapes and vegetation and city scenes that felt so much like what I knew from back home. I'd hoped to have at least one person remark on how much I resembled the people from a particular town or region—to be “claimed.” I'm always championing the Caribbean's diversity, cautioning visitors not to assume all 30 or so islands on the tourist map are the same. Similarly, the 54 African countries share a land mass, but their cultures, religions, topographies, and cuisines are diverse. For me to expect to feel an ancestral pull in places where my ancestors may never have set foot was, I realized, entirely too much to ask of a continent.

This article appeared in the September/October 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine   here .

A Cruise Through West Africa Reframed My Expectations of My Homeland

Carnival, Royal Caribbean and more change cruise itineraries amid Hurricane Ernesto

Portrait of Nathan Diller

Cruise lines are changing itineraries in an effort to avoid Hurricane Ernesto . The storm brought heavy rain and wind to Puerto Rico Wednesday, leaving close to half the island without power and prompting flash flood warnings. The Virgin Islands also felt the impacts.

Carnival Cruise Line’s Carnival Pride ship, which left from Baltimore for a Bermuda cruise on Sunday, moved its visit to the island up by one day, arriving on Tuesday and leaving on Thursday, the cruise line said.

Carnival Magic skipped a planned stop in San Juan on Wednesday and will make an additional stop in Nassau in the Bahamas on Friday. The ship left Miami on Sunday for an Eastern Caribbean cruise.

“As the safety of our guests and crew is our priority, we will continue to watch the storm and factor in guidance from the National Hurricane Center, U.S. Coast Guard and the local port authorities to provide timely updates as more information becomes available,” the cruise line said in a news release .

Norwegian Cruise Line rerouted Eastern Caribbean cruises on its Norwegian Sky and Norwegian Breakaway ships to the Western Caribbean, according to a spokesperson. The ships departed from Miami on Monday and Sunday, respectively.

Their new itineraries include Roatan in Honduras, Costa Maya and Cozumel, Mexico and Harvest Caye in Belize (Sky will also stop in Grand Cayman and Ocho Rios in Jamaica).

Was your cruise itinerary changed?: Here's what to do next

Norwegian Joy , which left for a Bermuda cruise from New York on Sunday, arrived at the island on Tuesday, one day ahead of schedule. While the ship will spend two nights at the Royal Naval Dockyard as planned, it will depart Thursday, a day earlier than planned.

“The safety and security of our guests, crew and the communities we visit is a top priority,” a spokesperson said in an emailed statement.

Royal Caribbean International’s Rhapsody of the Seas will make planned stops on its Southern Caribbean cruise in a different order, but no ports were canceled, according to a spokesperson for the line’s parent company, Royal Caribbean Group . The ship departed from San Juan on Sunday.

Icon of the Seas , which departed from Miami on Saturday, is sailing a Western Caribbean itinerary rather than an Eastern Caribbean cruise as planned. Stops include Cozumel, Costa Maya and Roatan. 

Symphony of the Seas, which left from Bayonne, New Jersey , for an Eastern Caribbean cruise on Friday, will also visit Nassau rather than Puerto Plata in the Dominican Republic.

Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at [email protected].

  • Norway Attractions

Norwegian Fjords Cruises

35 itineraries showing.

The Coastal Express

The Coastal Express

Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen (Roundtrip)

Departure Dates

Regular departures

Price from $1,853

The North Cape Line

The North Cape Line

Full voyage from Bergen to Oslo

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December 2024 - April 2025

Price from $3,283

MS Trollfjord

The Svalbard Line

The Svalbard Line

Bergen - Svalbard - Bergen (Roundtrip)

May 2025 - September 2026

Price from $5,224

The Coastal Express – South

The Coastal Express – South

Kirkenes – Bergen (Southbound)

Price from $1,075

The Coastal Express – North

The Coastal Express – North

Bergen – Kirkenes (Northbound)

Price from $1,260

The Coastal Express – To the Viking Capital

The Coastal Express – To the Viking Capital

Bergen – Kirkenes – Trondheim (Roundtrip)

Astronomy Voyage

Astronomy Voyage

The Coastal Express with an expert astronomer

Bergen - Kirkenes - Bergen (Roundtrip)

September 2024 - March 2026

Follow the Northern Lights – Finland to Norway

Follow the Northern Lights – Finland to Norway

Including The Coastal Express – South & Norway in a Nutshell

Helsinki - Rovaniemi - Honningsvåg - Oslo (Southbound)

December 2025 - March 2026

Follow the Midnight Sun – Norway, Sweden, & Finland

Follow the Midnight Sun – Norway, Sweden, & Finland

Stockholm - Kirkenes - Bergen (Roundtrip)

June - July 2025

The North Cape Line

Full voyage from Oslo

Oslo - Honningsvåg - Oslo (Roundtrip)

September 2025 - April 2026

Price from $3,707

The North Cape Line - North

The North Cape Line - North

Oslo – Tromsø (Northbound)

Price from $2,039

The North Cape Line - South

The North Cape Line - South

Tromsø – Oslo (Southbound)

October 2025 - April 2026

Price from $2,706

The Svalbard Line – North

The Svalbard Line – North

Bergen – Longyearbyen (Northbound)

June 2025 - September 2026

Price from $3,134

The Svalbard Line - South

The Svalbard Line - South

Svalbard – Bergen (Southbound)

Follow the Northern Lights – Norway to Finland

Follow the Northern Lights – Norway to Finland

Including The Coastal Express – North & Norway in a Nutshell

Oslo - Honningsvåg - Rovaniemi - Helsinki (Northbound)

September 2025 - March 2026

Norway's Capital to the Arctic Capital

Norway's Capital to the Arctic Capital

On The North Cape Line

December 2024 - May 2025

Price from $2,285

The North Cape Line

Full voyage from Oslo to Bergen

Oslo – Honningsvåg – Bergen (Roundtrip)

Price from $3,389

The North Cape Line – North

The North Cape Line – North

Half voyage from Bergen

Bergen – Honningsvåg – Tromsø (Northbound)

Price from $2,190

Arctic Capital to Norway's Capital

Arctic Capital to Norway's Capital

Price from $2,230

The North Cape Line – South

The North Cape Line – South

Half voyage from Tromsø

Tromsø – Honningsvåg – Bergen (Southbound)

Price from $2,270

The Svalbard Line

Departure date

September 2024

Price from $6,400

The Svalbard Line – North

Price from $5,264

The Svalbard Line – South

The Svalbard Line – South

Longyearbyen – Bergen (Southbound)

Price from $3,840

West Fjords to the Arctic Capital

West Fjords to the Arctic Capital

On The Coastal Express

Bergen - Ålesund - Trondheim - Bodø - Tromsø (Northbound)

Lofoten to the West Fjords

Lofoten to the West Fjords

Svolvær - Brønnøysund - Trondheim - Bergen (Southbound)

West Fjords to Lofoten

West Fjords to Lofoten

Bergen - Ålesund - Trondheim - Svolvær (Northbound)

Arctic Capital to the West Fjords

Arctic Capital to the West Fjords

Tromsø - Brønnøysund - Trondheim - Bergen (Southbound)

Lofoten to the Norwegian Border

Lofoten to the Norwegian Border

Svolvær - Tromsø - Honningsvåg - Kirkenes (Northbound)

Arctic Capital to the Viking Capital

Arctic Capital to the Viking Capital

Tromsø - Brønnøysund - Trondheim (Southbound)

Viking Capital to the Arctic Capital

Viking Capital to the Arctic Capital

Trondheim - Bodø - Tromsø (Northbound)

Norwegian Border to Lofoten

Norwegian Border to Lofoten

Kirkenes - Hammerfest - Svolvær (Southbound)

Arctic Capital to the Norwegian Border

Arctic Capital to the Norwegian Border

Tromsø - Honningsvåg - Båtsfjord - Kirkenes (Northbound)

West Fjords to the Viking Capital

West Fjords to the Viking Capital

Bergen - Ålesund - Trondheim (Northbound)

Viking Capital to the West Fjords

Viking Capital to the West Fjords

Trondheim - Kristiansund - Bergen (Southbound)

Norwegian Border to the Arctic Capital

Norwegian Border to the Arctic Capital

Kirkenes - Hammerfest - Tromsø (Southbound)

A couple left their home to move onto a residential cruise ship — see inside their cabin on Villa Vie Odyssey

  • Angela and Stephen Theriac purchased a cabin on the residential cruise ship Villa Vie Odyssey .
  • The ship plans to sail around the world every 3 ½ years. Its launch has been delayed by three months.
  • The cheapest dual-occupancy cabin starts at about $100,000, with an additional $3,500 monthly fee.

Insider Today

Angela Theriac hit a turning point in 2018.

In a span of six months, her mom and oldest brothers died, her husband faced a health scare, and she underwent two surgeries.

She said her perspective shifted: She decided to stop taking life for granted, grinding every day at work, and wondering if she'd ever have time to see the world.

"You know what?" Theriac, 53, a retired schoolteacher, recalled saying at the time to her husband. "Let's go for this big adventure and live life to the fullest."

That mission drove Theriac and her husband of almost 30 years, Stephen Theriac, 53, to purchase a cabin in March on a residential cruise ship called the Villa Vie Odyssey . They bought the cabin just one week after learning about it in a YouTube video.

"Sometimes, you just got to be adventurous and do it," Stephen, a retired deputy sheriff, told Business Insider.

Mikael Petterson, the founder and CEO of Villa Vie Residences, told BI in an email on Monday that Villa Vie Odyssey would embark "any day now." The 509-cabin residential cruise ship plans to circumnavigate the world every 3 ½ years, sailing to 147 countries and 425 destinations along the way.

Petterson declined to provide a specific sail date, saying the ship is still waiting for "the green light from DNV . It's impossible to say which day exactly." DNV is a certification and risk-assessment firm for the maritime industry.

Villa Vie Odyssey promises amenities, including three restaurants, five bars and lounges, a pool, and a golf simulator.

The ship's comprehensive itinerary is a dream for retirees like Angela and Stephen, who say cruising is a "big passion." Destinations include Australia; South America; Walvis Bay, Namibia; and Singapore.

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Before moving to Nicaragua in 2011, the couple spent most of their lives in Florida and frequently took advantage of their proximity to some of the busiest cruise ports in the US .

They estimate they've boarded 50 cruises over the past 25 years, with the longest lasting 39 days.

"I really enjoy seeing new places, learning of new cultures, trying different food, and drinking different microbrews," Stephen said. "It's a great lifestyle."

The couple told BI they paid for the smallest, least-expensive cabin on the never-ending cruise , partly funded by an inheritance from Angela's mother.

(The couple said they signed a nondisclosure agreement and could not tell BI how much they paid for their accommodation. However, the cheapest dual-occupancy interior cabins start at about $100,000 with an additional $3,500 monthly fee.)

The Theriacs said they've already been to popular cruise destinations like the Caribbean and Mediterranean. They're excited to go further — New Zealand for Stephen and tropical destinations like Bali, Indonesia, and Fiji for Angela, a self-proclaimed "water girl."

They said they have plans to rent their home in Nicaragua to a close friend.

The Odyssey cabin features twin beds and a vanity

The couple started decorating their floating condo with pillows, artwork, and "personal touches emphasizing storage," Angela said. "Our room is our bedroom, and the ship is our home."

But there's a caveat — while they can spend their days aboard the ship, they're not yet allowed to stay overnight.

The never-ending cruise was initially scheduled to set sail in May from Belfast, Ireland, following Villa Vie's acquisition of Fred Olsen Cruise Lines' more than 30-year-old Braemar vessel, now renamed Villa Vie Odyssey. However, Villa Vie has said issues like the aging ship's rudder stocks and recertification have since delayed its departure by three months.

Like many other would-be Villa Vie residents, the Theriacs flew to Belfast for the initial springtime departure date. Since then, the couple said they've been staying at hotels — including some a flight away in Liverpool, UK, where they say the nightly cost is cheaper — and spending time on other cruises.

Petterson said the Florida-based Villa Vie also provided residents with shuttles to and from the ship, food, drinks, excursions, and lodging — or a daily per diem for those who "choose to do their own thing."

But the couple has been patient and understanding of the delays — because, according to Stephen, "it's a now-or-never kind of thing."

"We're still in pretty good health and financially fine," Stephen said, reflecting on the sight of "80-year-olds getting off Princess ships in walkers." "I don't want to be that old and try to see the world. I want to do it now while I can still enjoy it."

Villa Vie would be the first ship of its kind in 22 years

Villa Vie isn't the only startup that has faced difficulties while trying to launch a never-ending voyage.

The residential-cruise industry has been plagued by issues since the inauguration of The World, the only ship of this kind, in 2002.

Startups trying to launch floating condominiums have since popped up as quickly as they've sunk — from Miray Cruises' Life at Sea Cruises , which shut down two weeks before it was supposed to embark in November, to Storylines , which has delayed its departure by seven years to 2026.

Miray's former CEO, Kendra Holmes, recently launched GlobeCruises, a concept similar to Life at Sea's three-year cruise , scheduled to sail in April.

GlobeCruises and Villa Vie are the only options vying to join The World in its extended voyage around the globe.

Are you sailing on a residential cruise ship like Villa Vie or have a tip? Contact the reporter at [email protected] or on X @brittanymchang .

Watch: Cruise ship captain breaks down 8 cruise ship disasters in movies and TV

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