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Traveler’s guide to the city of Omsk, Western Siberia’s secret gem

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Omsk was founded in 1716 when a wooden fort was constructed to house a Cossack unit in the area to protect the expanding Russian frontier from Central Asian nomadic incursions. It served various administrative functions throughout the 1800s and became infamous as a place of exile and incarceration. The city was rundown when selected as a hub for the Trans-Siberian railway in the 1890s. Many international trade companies and foreign consulates relocated here and the remnants of their offices can still be found in the city today.

The mystery of Kolchak’s gold

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Kolchak was entrusted with a large portion of the Tsarist’s gold reserves, yet amazingly lost much of it. Supposedly 250 million rubles were lost (about $8 million at the time). Legend has it that they were buried near the village of Taiga, yet numerous excavations have turned up nothing. The area still attracts the occasional fortune seeker.

Kolchak’s headquarters are located at what is today the Omsk Regional Archives at Broz Tito St., 3. Nothing shows how much times have changed as the imposing Kolchak statue that was unveiled in 2012 around the corner. The statue guards Kolchak restaurant , a four-story culinary complex featuring a steak house, an Irish pub, a Central Asian café and an Italian eatery.  For more details on where and how to dig Kolchak's gold, see Top Ten Mysterious Lost Treasures of Russia  

Dostoevsky and the Tsar

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Most foreigners have heard of Omsk via writer Fyodor Dostoevsky who spent four years here as a prisoner (1849-1853). He spent most of his time in Omsk in squalor and chains and with no books besides the Bible, however, it left an indelible mark on his memory and influenced his future literary output. There is a statue of the writer in chains grasping a Bible at the corner of Partizanskaya and Spartakovskaya streets, where Dostoevsky undoubtedly stepped many times. A museum dedicated to the author's time in Omsk is located nearby at Dostoevskogo St. 1. The local university is also named for him.

Tarskaya Street is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. It features a monument to victims of Stalinist repressions and the Tara gates, originally built in 1792 as one of the four entrances to the Omsk fort. Nearby stands the Assumption Cathedral, one of the largest churches in Siberia. Future Tsar Nicholas II laid the first stone here in 1891 when making his way back to St. Petersburg after his Eastern journey.

In Omsk you are never more than a few steps from the village, made clear when one exits the center to the north, where most houses are wooden and roads unpaved. Stroll along Bulatova and Rabinovicha streets, a well-preserved ensemble of wooden architecture.  

Omsk’s cultural heritage

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One of Omsk’s most famous sons is Symbolist painter Mikhail Vrubel (1856-1910). Vrubel ignored contemporary trends and focused on themes from fairy tales, demons and religious subjects and also designed a majolica frieze for the Metropol Hotel in Moscow. Omsk’s Fine Arts Museum is named for him and features a number of his works .

Over the years a number of tourists have tripped over the monument to Stepanych. This bust of a plumber rising from a sewer was the idea of Omsk’s former mayor after a trip to Slovakia in the 1990s. Stepanych has become one of the symbols of the city.

Omsk is a hockey town, with one of the major teams, Avangard , in the KHL, Russia’s premiere professional league. Russian champions on several occasions, check out a match at Omsk Arena. But if you can’t catch a game there’s a large kiosk featuring the team’s merchandise at the airport.  

Siberian punk, jazz and the classics

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Perhaps Russia’s most famous punk band, Grazhdanskaya oborona (Civil Defence), was formed here in 1982. The band was active until 2008 when lead singer Yegor Letov died of heart failure at age 43. Letov is buried at the Staro-Vostochnoe cemetery. A sprawling graveyard with thousands of graves, fans should stop at the administration for help in locating his grave.

One of Omsk’s longest running live music venues is Jazz Cafe Party Piano . With live jazz and rock every night of the month, it’s legendary throughout Siberia. Take a taxi as it’s hard to find. Other options for live music include the Viking Folk Bar and Harat's Pub .  

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How to get there

The southern and northern branches of the Trans-Siberian Railway converge here with about 10 trains going to or from Moscow on any given day (37-47 hours each way) and many trains travel to and from the Far East (4-5 days) daily. Aeroflot, Transaero, and S7 fly to Moscow daily (3 hours). Less frequent flights connect to Saint Petersburg (3 hours), Krasnoyarsk (2 hours), as well as Frankfurt, Hannover and Köln in Germany (5 hours). For more information check out aeroomsk.ru

Where to stay

Central hotel choices include Tourist with rooms starting from 1800 rubles (about $47) and Ibis Sibir with rooms starting at 4000 rubles (about $104).

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The Top 12 Things to Do in Omsk

Feel the love in the very heart of Russia

In Russia, all roads lead to Moscow , on account of the city's status as the national capital and its importance throughout history. If geography were the deciding factor, however, the Siberian city of Omsk would be the point where all Russia's roads converge—it's located literally in the heart of the country, approximately as far from Vladivostok as it is from the Belarusian border. Omsk boasts a spate of exciting attractions, even if you simply make a stop here as you ride the Trans-Siberian Railway eastward or westward.

Marvel at Assumption Cathedral

Chelsea Hicks/Flickr/CC BY 2.0

Orthodox architecture never gets old, even if you've been traveling in Russia for a long time. This is particularly the case when it comes to the Assumption Cathedral of Omsk, whose gold-and-turquoise domes look resplendent under the blue skies that bless Omsk during the warmer months of the year. The cathedral was built in 1891 under the orders Nicholas, the last Tsar of Russia.

Time Travel at Omsk Fortress

Ogg-omsk/Wikimedia Commons/CC BY-SA 3.0

The bad news? Much of what was once Omsk Fortress is now a residential area, with the only notable landmark that still stands being Tobolsk Gate (think Paris' Arc de Triomphe , but yellow and smaller). The good news? There's essentially no reason for a military fortification to exist in today's peaceful Omsk, which means you can stroll amid parks and cafés and imagine the area being war-torn—a small sacrifice to make in exchange for not being blown to bits.

Go Green at Ptich'ya Gavan'

Forinrap/Wikimedia Commons/CC BY-SA 4.0 

Or white, as it were: Omsk is covered with snow several months of the year, which means that its prized Ptich'ya Gavan' central park is often more of a winter wonderland than the green reprieve you experience in summer. The park is popular with local families, to whom you can say "Privet" (Hello) as you walk past.

Walk on Omsk's Artsy Side

G0rn/Wikimedia Commons/CC BY 3.0

Although the building that houses Omsk District Museum of Visual Arts is unmistakably Russian, the collection you find inside is surprisingly eclectic for a city deep in Russia's interior. Recent collections have included a revival of Van Gogh's great works, among others. This is a particularly enjoyable Omsk attraction on cold winter days, when temperatures can drop far below freezing and sunshine can be rare.

Shoot for the Moon

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Though Omsk is a relatively large city, the skies over it become dark enough in the evening for stargazing. While visitors are not permitted to use the expensive telescopes housed inside, exhibits inside the museum provide a fascinating look into the cosmos, narrated by expert astronomical guides.

Shop on Lenin Street

yykkaa/Getty Images

Lenin Street's name is appropriate: Although it's the high street of a city thousands of miles from Moscow, the European-style architecture and cosmopolitan vibe you feel as you stroll past its boutique and cafés evokes the capital of Russia more than its forlorn interior. Local specialties you can purchase here include rustic jams made from local berries (and even, in some shops, cedar cones), as well as handmade rugs from Kazakhstan, which sits just south of Omsk.

Sample Siberian Cuisine

Quynh Anh Nguyen/Getty Images 

Speaking of unique Siberian food, it's not just preserves made from the fruits of evergreen trees. Omsk is a great place to discover the flavors of Russia's wild interior, whether you eat zagutai and stroganini (Siberia's take on sushi) or classic Russian plmeni dumplings filled with decidedly Siberian ingredients, such as bear and rabbit meat. Vkusno ! (That's Russian for "delicious"!)

Enjoy Historical Houses—While You Still Can

Simon Richmond/Getty Images

The wooden houses that line Nikolskiy Prospekt aren't protected, but they should be. Historical structures that are unfortunately in a state of disrepair, these houses are slated for demolition at some unspecific point in the future. Be sure to catch a glimpse of these historical house before they're gone. There will, however, be at least one left standing for a long time. The Omsk State Art Museum is in a traditional wooden house.

Go to the Circus

Vladislav Domnich/Getty Images

Omsk State Circus is a popular spot for local families, whose children love the opportunity to see acrobatic performances and animals that wouldn't otherwise make appearance in Siberia. If you do attend a show here, keep in mind that ethics with regard to animal treatment might not match up with those in North America or Western Europe, to say nothing of the smell that can pervade the auditorium during and even after a show.

Be a Drama Queen

While there's no guarantee that any shows will be playing at Omsk Drama Theater at the time of your trip, a visit to this 19th century building is a spectacle in and of itself. While not as huge, say, as Moscow's Bolshoi Theatre, it's nonetheless an ornate architectural wonder that hearkens back to a glorious time in history. The interior of the theater is even open during the daytime; ask the person who's inside if any tours are available when you turn up.

Explore Cities Deeper in Siberia

Tuul & Bruno Morandi/Getty Images

Siberia starts in Omsk, even if you can't continue far into it. If you don't plan to travel on the Trans-Siberian Railway, take one of two day trips from Omsk. Travel to Tobolsk, whose hilltop Kremlin is one of the most picturesque in all of Russia, and whose beauty inspired a photo by Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev that ended up winning several awards. Or visit Tomsk, where you'll find a botanical garden dedicated to Siberian flora, and a museum that celebrates wooden architecture.

Ride the Trans-Siberian Railway

 lvinst/Getty Images

The idea of leaving Omsk behind can seem difficult, especially now that you've gotten to know this city in the heart of Siberia as well as you have. The mint-colored facade of Omsk Railway Station will make you smile, however, even if you're crying inside as you depart. Though it's not quite on the mid-line of the Trans-Siberian route between Moscow and Beijing , Omsk is a worthy starting place to begin a journey to either. If you head east make sure to stop in Irkutsk , the home of Lake Baikal and another underrated Siberian city.

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  • #Luxury travel
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Omsk, founded in 1716, is a large industrial, educational and cultural center with a population of over one million. In the 50-s years of the 20th century, Omsk became an important oil-processing city. Omsk is a typical modern city with wide thoroughfares, numerous bridges, and high sky-scrapers. In the old part of the city, one can see examples of architecture of previous centuries including the Tobolskie Gate leading to the city fortress, the oldest constructions in Omsk.

In the 19th century, the convicts had to pass through this gate daily when they went to the timber cutting works. Among the convicts was famous Russian writer Fyodor Dostoevsky.

The palace of a general-governor is another interesting sight of Omsk. This old building witnessed many historical events.

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    Omsk is a great place to discover the flavors of Russia's wild interior, whether you eat zagutai and stroganini (Siberia's take on sushi) or classic Russian plmeni dumplings filled with decidedly Siberian ingredients, such as bear and rabbit meat. Vkusno! (That's Russian for "delicious"!) 08of 12.

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