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Looping The Loop: spring fever hits the Windy City before a busy summer

It’s been 40 minutes now. 

Forty minutes of looping around The Loop trying to find the entrance to the Fairmont Chicago, Millennium Park in order to check in — after a nine-hour drive at that. Nerves became a little frayed under such conditions and The Loop, the fitting nickname for Downtown Chicago, is trying patience, worse than I90’s lengthy tests.

The GPS keeps returning the car to this dark underground roadway, from which we keep emerging. Round and round, again and again — the car has already driven along delightful Lake Shore Drive so many times it knows it’s own way there.

On this fifth loop around, the picturesque stretch has lost its charm. Then, as despair and exhaustion reach breaking point, instead of adding the hotel name, an address is tapped in instead — and bingo. Not a minute too soon we are finally pulling into the semicircular drive, welcomed by a very understanding valet. Live and learn — AI trains us, not just the other way round.

And so, deep breath, the poor automobile is off for a deserved rest. The human needs something similar, too — and that is soon happening. A beer and a bite in the hotel’s Columbus Tap — a sports bar type place with a surprisingly tasty Beyond burger, and lots of local beers to choose from — caps a long travel day nicely.

A busy city

This towering, multilayered, madcap city sat by the once mighty, much abused Lake Michigan, which stretches into the distance, creating a veritable third coast, awakens from its bitter winter’s lull with a fabled St. Patrick’s Day parade in March. But this coming summer sees Chicago in the spotlight as host the 2024 Democratic National Convention in August. Oh, and the NASCAR street race will rev through the city again that month; while the annual Lollapalooza takes over Grant Park for a weekend of music too. It is followed by Riot Fest in early September — yet another music jamboree.

The Loop reverberating to the sounds of the Red Hot Chili Peppers, one of Lollapalooza’s headliners last summer, was a sharp contrast to a springtime wander through soothing Grant Park. Late spring sunshine in full glow, a different sound of music emanated from the stage at the eye catching Frank Gehry designed Jay Pritzker Pavilion , which is home to the annual 10-week classical Grant Park Music Festival , featuring the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra and Grant Park Chorus, along with guest performers and conductors. This was a lunchtime orchestral rehearsal and anyone was free to sit and listen; what a treat. The Grant Park Music Festival runs mid-June through mid-August, usually; and concerts are free, too (201 E. Randolph St. grantparkmusicfestival.com ).

This early spring sees Expo Chicago, the International Exposition of Contemporary & Modern Art , now part of the London-based Frieze, at the Navy Pier’s Festival Hall, Apr. 12-14 ( expochicago.com ).  Set by the lake, the Navy Pier includes a fun fair and other traditional attractions, as well as theaters. Some might call it a tourist trap. Before setting off the Navy Pier, still undecided, a chat with a woman and her young son exploring the beautiful Fourth Presbyterian Church of Chicago on Michigan Avenue was the decider. The woman said they live in the condos overlooking the lake near to the Navy Pier: Mom: “Only tourists go there.” Son, countering mom’s put-down with a more considered approach: “But it’s a lot of fun to visit sometimes.”

Quite the opposite to the pier’s colorful fun, one of the most beautiful places in Chicago is Millennium Park’s wildflower garden. There are no superlatives to describe the respite this place offers to all beings: spring buds and brave early blooms lead to summer’s untamed beauty of plant-life left to be, and become a place buzzing with red admirals, peacocks, and monarch butterflies fluttering amongst bee and fly laden flowers. 

But, it is likely Millennium Park’s shiny sculpture The Bean that is a bigger draw — it’s a selfie heaven for the camera clique, this beautiful artwork, reflecting and refracting, and oddly calming in that.

Skyscrapers and wildflowers 

Chicago is better known for its skyscrapers than its wildflowers — this is where up-up-upward mobility in building was birthed. Every city has a high tower experience now, but, among the oldest, the Skywalk at the Willis Tower just turned 50 and is still a landmark. Formerly known as the Sears Tower, this was once the tallest building in the world, but tallest kept getting taller and now it’s simply historic — and tall. Step out onto its new glass floor, if you dare.

Chicago recently added another supertall: The St. Regis Chicago , a sleek, spindly 101-story skyscraper, designed by award-winning architect Jeanne Gang. This is now the third tallest building in Chicago, the 10th tallest in the United States, and the tallest building in the world designed by a woman. 

Back deeper in The Loop, the Langham Chicago is set in a 52-story landmark tower, built in 1971 as IBM's regional headquarters, and the last project designed by renowned architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, the father of Chicago’s modernist skyline.  Or is that post-modernist? With a touch of brutalism?

Around the city

One of the most interesting ways to find out which it is, and about The Loop’s mass of buildings is to take the First Lady Architecture River Cruise Tour, which not only navigates the Chicago River — the only river in America that flows backwards, but, in partnership with the Chicago Architecture Center, the cruise guide gives the backstory to the structures that already pack The Loop, and what’s to come.  The dock is located on Chicago's Riverwalk at Michigan Avenue and Wacker Drive. (112 E. Wacker Dr., cruisechicago.com ).

A CityPASS ticket discounts several downtown big attractions, including the Art Institute of Chicago, where major works by Monet, and Matisse, and Picasso, and Pollock are joined by the lower level Thorne Miniature Rooms gallery featuring exquisite tiny living (111 S. Michigan Ave., artic.edu ); and the Field Museum, named in honor of its first major benefactor, Marshall Field, the department-store magnate. Now one of the largest natural history museums in the world, one where visitors may meet Spinosaurus, the latest dinosaur in an amazing collection (1400 S. DuSable, fieldmuseum.org ).  

CityPASS also saves on admission to Skydeck Chicago and the city’s other vertigo testing observation deck, 360 Chicago at the top of the former John Hancock Center —  an unlovely black faced building built in 1965 — officially renamed 875 North Michigan Ave. in 2018. One thousand feet above the famed Magnificent Mile shopping stretch, TILT, a mechanized window, does exactly that, high above the street.

Skydeck Chicago includes an interesting history recalling how the city was defined by a devastating fire  — the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 destroyed most of the city, spurring the Great Rebuild that is the basis of this multilayered concrete and steel mass. There’s more on all that at the Chicago History Museum’s exhibition "City on Fire: Chicago 1871,} which runs until October 2024. It’s a family friendly, interactive, multimedia exhibit incorporating recorded stories from survivors of the fire (currently not discounted by CityPASS). 

There is yet another defining layer to The Loop besides up, down, and the bit in-between. Sitting in Miss Ricky’s American Diner in the Virgin Hotel (yes, Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin Hotel), or standing in the glass walled lobby of theWitt hotel on State Street, a layer so definitive of downtown Chicago is in full view: With great regularity, the elevated train trundles by, just overhead, both a part of the past and of the future, while being of great use in the now. 

Sweet dreams in the heart of The Loop

Fairmont Chicago — Millennium Park welcomes guests with its “inner circle” lobby bar, a great spot for a drink and some people watching; and the Columbus Tap, a casual eatery, but with good Fairmont culinary standards. Tucked in the basement,  Leaf Spa is a hidden gem, excellently staffed, and with a fun make your own scrub bar — guests may take their concoction home (from $215 per night, 203 N. Wabash Ave., fairmont.com ). 

Virgin Hotel, Chicago was the first property in the Virgin Hotels Collection brand. Opened in 2015, Miss Ricky’s American Diner has an Italian inspired dinner menu and all-American breakfast one — and train spotting! The clubby Cerise rooftop is the spot for drinks and far flung urban views. Rooms — a mix of mod dorm and airline inspired decor — are blessed with gorgeous Red Flower toiletries in the spacious showers (from $199 per night, 203 N. Wabash Ave., virginhotels.com/chicago ). 

St. Regis Hotel Chicago, from bottom to top, is a treat… or retreat. Opened in 2023, this luxury hotel standing so very tall where the Chicago River meets Lake Michigan, includes the 11th floor Miru restaurant where, each evening, there’s the “Champagne Sabrage” ritual on the adjacent terrace. Located on the tenth floor, the St. Regis Spa has purposeful pampering. Rooms are pricey, but for all the right reasons (from $700 per night, 401 East Wacker Drive, marriott.com ).

The Langham, Chicago retains the brand’s excellent Chuan Spa, where guests can indulge in signature Chinese medicine inspired wellness treatments, adjacent to  the pool and fitness center. Dine at Travelle on the hotel’s second floor; or relax in Pavilion, a gilded cage where “Afternoon Tea with Wedgwood,” the brand’s signature afternoon tea is served  (from $625 per night, 330 N. Wabash Ave., langhamhotels.com ).  

TheWit Chicago, a Hilton property in the Theater District, recently glammed up from the lobby to ROOF on theWit lounge, which has a glass retractable roof for those highly changeable seasons. The Spa @ theWit’s Flow massage uses expert hands to work travel worn muscles and joints with customizable modalities, and the State and Lake Chicago Tavern is a casual sports bar and restaurant (from $186 per night, 201 N. State St., hilton.com ).

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Christmas gift guide to Moscow surroundings

Visitors from America and Western Europe might be surprised to discover that Russia celebrates Christmas on January 7th. That’s because the Russian Orthodox Church follows the Julian calendar. After the end of the Soviet Union, some Russians have begun celebrating Christmas on December 25 in accordance with the Gregorian calendar. But many Russians still observe the tradition of fasting on January 6th, breaking the fast with a large feast on Christmas Eve after the first star has appeared in the sky.

During the Soviet era, Christmas and religious traditions were banned in Russia. Santa Claus was replaced by Ded Moroz, or, Grandfather Frost, an old man with a long white beard who would bring gifts to children on New Year’s instead of Christmas. According to Russian tradition, Ded Moroz is accompanied by his granddaughter, Snegurochka, the Snowmaiden, who helps him on his journey to give presents to children.

Although the tradition of having a Christmas tree, known as a yolka in Russian, was also banned during Soviet times, Russians got around this by having New Year’s trees from which they hung homemade decorations. Today, the restrictions of the Soviet Union have faded into history, and during the Christmas season visitors to Russia can even purchase Christmas ornaments in the shape of matryoshka dolls, or religious icons that depict nativity scenes.

Heading counterclockwise around the Golden Ring this holiday season, northeast of Moscow, your first stop will most likely be the city of Vladimir, home to some of Russia’s most striking churches and cathedrals. The Vladimir region is known for its fine crystal. Stop by the Crystal, Lacquer Miniatures, and Embroidery Museum ( 2 Bolshaya Moskovskaya ) for an overview of traditional crafts before visiting the gift shop in the museum to browse the crystal selection. Vladimir Chic ( 2 Dvoryanskaya ) also sells local glass and crystal work.

Typical souvenirs are also for sale in Vladimir’s old town, especially by the Golden Gate, a triumphal arch and defensive tower that is one of the last-remaining parts of the wall that once surrounded ancient Vladimir and a sure stop on any tour of the Golden Ring.

Just 63 kilometers from Vladimir lays the nearby city of Gus-Khrustalny , the ‘Crystal Goose,’ also home to a rich glass and crystal making tradition. You can visit the glassmaking factory in Gus-Khrustalny and buy gifts ranging from plates and vases to decanters, or visit the outlet store back in Moscow ( 4 Ilyinka ) just east of the Kremlin.

North of Vladimir, you’ll arrive in Suzdal, one of the Golden Ring route’s more tranquil towns. Suzdal boasts a number of small bazaars and stands outside the main tourist sites where visitors can purchase local honey mead, called medovukha, along with traditional crafts, like a pair valenki, or Russian woolen boots, which make an ideal Christmas gift for friends and family back home. The shopping stands outside Suzdal’s Museum of Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life ( Ul. Pushkarskaya ) are also highly recommended. Market Square ( Torgovaya Pl ) houses a number of shops where visitors can search for arts and crafts.

Following the Golden Ring north of Suzdal, many tours will stop in the city of Kostroma, a former trading outpost on the immense Volga River. One of the city’s highlights is the Museum of Linen and Birchbark ( 38 Tereshkova ), where visitors can view exhibits on traditional Russian crafts woven from flax and bark. A gift shop in the basement sells tablecloths, napkins, baskets, linen dolls, and traditional clothing typical of the region.

South from Kostroma, stop in the city of Rostov-Veliky for enamel jewelry, a craft which allows artists to produce small paintings on metal that are then fired to produce a thin glaze over the image. Rostov became famous for its tradition of enamel work. Today, visitors can purchase rings, earrings, bracelets, brooches, and jewelry boxes in the gift shop of the Rostov Enamel factory ( 3 Borisoglebskoye Highway ).

While you’re in Rostov, visit the House of Crafts ( 16 Vtoraya Tolstovskaya Naberezhnaya ) for local pottery and the Souvenirs shop ( 5 Ul. Kamennyi Most ) for ushanka hats—Russian fur caps with earflaps—paintings, and samovars for tea lovers.

The last two stops on a tour of the Golden Ring are the cities of Pereslavl-Zalesskiy and Sergiev Posad. Pereslavl is most famous for its embroidery work, available at the Art Salon ( 12 Ul. Sovetskaya ) along with souvenirs made of wood and stone. Nearby Sergiev Posad is considered the place where Russia’s matryoshka dolls were first invented, and was the chief production center of the dolls before Soviet times. Visit the city’s Toy Museum ( 123 Pr. Krasny Armii ) to get a better sense of the birthplace of one of Russia’s most recognizable toys, then head over to the market alongside the Trinity Monastery of St. Sergius—one of the city’s most important sites—to load up on matryoshka dolls, painted eggs, and icons before going home.

If you’ll be in the Golden Ring during New Years, the city of Vladimir hosts an impressive Christmas fair, with an iceskating rink and performances by local artists, in the main square ( Sobornaya Pl ). In most other Golden Ring cities you’ll find similar events in the center square as Christmas nears.

Most shops and markets in the Golden Ring are open year round. If you’re coming to Russia for a short period of time, whether in winter or summer, consider a trip to this stunning part of the country, and bring an extra bag if you plan to go shopping for Christmas gifts.

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Watch CBS News

What time the 2024 solar eclipse started, reached peak totality and ended

By Sarah Maddox

Updated on: April 9, 2024 / 5:04 AM EDT / CBS News

The 2024 solar eclipse will be visible across North America today. As the moon's position between the Earth and sun casts a shadow on North America, that shadow, or umbra, will travel along the surface from west to east at more than 1,500 miles per hour along the path of totality . 

That means the eclipse will start, peak and end at different times — as will the moments of total darkness along the path of totality — and the best time to view the eclipse depends on where you are located. Some places along the path will have more totality time than others.

In Texas, the south-central region had clouds in the forecast , but it was better to the northeast, according to the National Weather Service. The best eclipse viewing weather was expected in New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine, as well as in Canada's New Brunswick and Newfoundland.

What time does the 2024 total solar eclipse start?

The total solar eclipse will emerge over the South Pacific Ocean before the shadow falls across North America, beginning in parts of Mexico. The path of totality , where onlookers can witness the moon fully blocking the sun (through eclipse viewing glasses for safety ), is expected to first make landfall near the city of Mazatlán around 9:51 a.m. MT. 

The total solar eclipse will cross over the U.S.-Mexico border into Texas, where it will emerge over Eagle Pass at 12:10 p.m. CT and then peak at about 1:27 p.m. CT.

In Dallas, NASA data shows the partial eclipse will first become visible at 12:23 p.m. CT and peak at 1:40 p.m. CT. The next states in the path of totality are Oklahoma and Arkansas, where the eclipse begins in Little Rock at 12:33 p.m. CT. 

Cleveland will see the beginning of the eclipse at 1:59 p.m. ET. Darkness will start spreading over the sky in Buffalo, New York, at 2:04 p.m. ET. Then, the eclipse will reach northwestern Vermont, including Burlington, at 2:14 p.m. ET. Parts of New Hampshire and Maine will also follow in the path of totality before the eclipse first reaches the Canadian mainland  at 3:13 p.m. ET.

Although the experience won't be exactly the same, viewers in all the contiguous U.S. states outside the path of totality will still be able to see a partial eclipse. Some places will see most of the sun blocked by the moon, including Washington, D.C., where the partial eclipse will start at 2:04 p.m. ET and peak at about 3:20 p.m. ET.

In Chicago, viewers can start viewing the partial eclipse at 12:51 p.m. CT, with the peak arriving at 2:07 p.m. CT.  In Detroit, viewers will be able to enjoy a near-total eclipse beginning at 1:58 p.m. ET and peaking at 3:14 p.m. ET.

New York City will also see a substantial partial eclipse, beginning at 2:10 p.m. ET and peaking around 3:25 p.m. ET.

In Boston it will begin at 2:16 p.m. ET and peak at about 3:29 p.m. ET.

The below table by NASA shows when the eclipse will start, peak and end in 13 cities along the eclipse's path.

What time will the solar eclipse reach peak totality?

Millions more people will have the chance to witness the total solar eclipse this year than during the last total solar eclipse , which was visible from the U.S. in 2017. 

The eclipse's peak will mean something different for cities within the path of totality and for those outside. Within the path of totality, darkness will fall for a few minutes. The longest will last more than 4 minutes, but most places will see between 3.5 and 4 minutes of totality. In cities experiencing a partial eclipse, a percentage of the sun will be obscured for more than two hours.

Mazatlán is set to experience totality at 11:07 am PT. Dallas will be able to see the moon fully cover the sun at 1:40 p.m. CT. Little Rock will start to see the full eclipse at 1:51 p.m. CT, Cleveland at 3:13 p.m. ET and Buffalo at 3:18 p.m. ET. Totality will reach Burlington at 3:26 p.m. ET before moving into the remaining states and reaching Canada around 4:25 p.m.

Outside the path of totality, 87.4% of the sun will be eclipsed in Washington, D.C. at 3:20 p.m. ET, and Chicago will have maximum coverage of 93.9% at 2:07 p.m. CT. New York City is much closer to the path of totality this year than it was in 2017; it will see 89.6% coverage at 3:25 p.m. EDT. 

Detroit is another city that will encounter a near-total eclipse, with 99.2% maximum coverage at 3:14 p.m. ET. Boston will see 92.4% coverage at 3:29 p.m. ET.

What time will the solar eclipse end?

The eclipse will leave continental North America from Newfoundland, Canada, at 5:16 p.m. NT, according to NASA.

At the beginning of the path of totality in Mazatlán, the eclipse will be over by 12:32 p.m. PT, and it will leave Dallas at 3:02 p.m. CT. The eclipse will end in Little Rock at 3:11 p.m. CT, Cleveland at 4:29 p.m. CDT and Buffalo at 4:32 p.m. ET. Burlington won't be far behind, with the eclipse concluding at 4:37 p.m. ET.

Meanwhile, the viewing will end in Chicago at 3:21 p.m. CT, Washington, D.C. at 4:32 p.m. ET, and New York City at 4:36 p.m. ET. 

In Detroit, the partial eclipse will disappear at 4:27 p.m. ET, and in Boston, it will be over at 4:39 p.m. ET.

How long will the eclipse last in total?

The total solar eclipse will begin in Mexico at 11:07 a.m. PT and leave continental North America at 5:16 p.m. NT. From the time the partial eclipse first appears on Earth to its final glimpses before disappearing thousands of miles away, the celestial show will dazzle viewers for about 5 hours, according to timeanddate.com . 

The length of the total solar eclipse at points along the path depends on the viewing location. The longest will be 4 minutes and 28 seconds, northwest of Torreón, Mexico. Near the center of the path, totality takes place for the longest periods of time, according to NASA.

Spectators will observe totality for much longer today than during the 2017 eclipse , when the longest stretch of totality was 2 minutes and 32 seconds.

The moon's shadow seen on Earth today, called the umbra, travels at more than 1,500 miles per hour, according to NASA. It would move even more quickly if the Earth rotated in the opposite direction.

What is the longest a solar eclipse has ever lasted?

The longest known totality was 7 minutes and 28 seconds in 743 B.C. However, NASA says this record will be broken in 2186 with a 7 minute, 29 second total solar eclipse. The next total solar eclipse visible from parts of the U.S. won't happen until Aug. 23, 2044.

Sarah Maddox has been with CBS News since 2019. She works as an associate producer for CBS News Live.

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Claudia Looi

Touring the Top 10 Moscow Metro Stations

By Claudia Looi 2 Comments

Komsomolskaya metro station looks like a museum. It has vaulted ceilings and baroque decor.

Hidden underground, in the heart of Moscow, are historical and architectural treasures of Russia. These are Soviet-era creations – the metro stations of Moscow.

Our guide Maria introduced these elaborate metro stations as “the palaces for the people.” Built between 1937 and 1955, each station holds its own history and stories. Stalin had the idea of building beautiful underground spaces that the masses could enjoy. They would look like museums, art centers, concert halls, palaces and churches. Each would have a different theme. None would be alike.

The two-hour private tour was with a former Intourist tour guide named Maria. Maria lived in Moscow all her life and through the communist era of 60s to 90s. She has been a tour guide for more than 30 years. Being in her 60s, she moved rather quickly for her age. We traveled and crammed with Maria and other Muscovites on the metro to visit 10 different metro stations.

Arrow showing the direction of metro line 1 and 2

Moscow subways are very clean

To Maria, every street, metro and building told a story. I couldn’t keep up with her stories. I don’t remember most of what she said because I was just thrilled being in Moscow.   Added to that, she spilled out so many Russian words and names, which to one who can’t read Cyrillic, sounded so foreign and could be easily forgotten.

The metro tour was the first part of our all day tour of Moscow with Maria. Here are the stations we visited:

1. Komsomolskaya Metro Station  is the most beautiful of them all. Painted yellow and decorated with chandeliers, gold leaves and semi precious stones, the station looks like a stately museum. And possibly decorated like a palace. I saw Komsomolskaya first, before the rest of the stations upon arrival in Moscow by train from St. Petersburg.

2. Revolution Square Metro Station (Ploshchad Revolyutsii) has marble arches and 72 bronze sculptures designed by Alexey Dushkin. The marble arches are flanked by the bronze sculptures. If you look closely you will see passersby touching the bronze dog's nose. Legend has it that good luck comes to those who touch the dog's nose.

Touch the dog's nose for good luck. At the Revolution Square station

Revolution Square Metro Station

3. Arbatskaya Metro Station served as a shelter during the Soviet-era. It is one of the largest and the deepest metro stations in Moscow.

Arbatskaya Metro Station

4. Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Metro Station was built in 1935 and named after the Russian State Library. It is located near the library and has a big mosaic portrait of Lenin and yellow ceramic tiles on the track walls.

Lenin's portrait at the Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Metro Station

5. Kievskaya Metro Station was one of the first to be completed in Moscow. Named after the capital city of Ukraine by Kiev-born, Nikita Khruschev, Stalin's successor.

Kievskaya Metro Station

6. Novoslobodskaya Metro Station  was built in 1952. It has 32 stained glass murals with brass borders.

Novoslobodskaya metro station

7. Kurskaya Metro Station was one of the first few to be built in Moscow in 1938. It has ceiling panels and artwork showing Soviet leadership, Soviet lifestyle and political power. It has a dome with patriotic slogans decorated with red stars representing the Soviet's World War II Hall of Fame. Kurskaya Metro Station is a must-visit station in Moscow.

Ceiling panel and artworks at Kurskaya Metro Station

8. Mayakovskaya Metro Station built in 1938. It was named after Russian poet Vladmir Mayakovsky. This is one of the most beautiful metro stations in the world with 34 mosaics painted by Alexander Deyneka.

Mayakovskaya station

One of the over 30 ceiling mosaics in Mayakovskaya metro station

9. Belorusskaya Metro Station is named after the people of Belarus. In the picture below, there are statues of 3 members of the Partisan Resistance in Belarus during World War II. The statues were sculpted by Sergei Orlov, S. Rabinovich and I. Slonim.

10. Teatralnaya Metro Station (Theatre Metro Station) is located near the Bolshoi Theatre.

Teatralnaya Metro Station decorated with porcelain figures .

Taking the metro's escalator at the end of the tour with Maria the tour guide.

Have you visited the Moscow Metro? Leave your comment below.

January 15, 2017 at 8:17 am

An excellent read! Thanks for much for sharing the Russian metro system with us. We're heading to Moscow in April and exploring the metro stations were on our list and after reading your post, I'm even more excited to go visit them. Thanks again 🙂

December 6, 2017 at 10:45 pm

Hi, do you remember which tour company you contacted for this tour?

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