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MTS1200 Cruise control from the factory

TimOz

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Messaggio: Hi I have an 12010 MTS1200 S Sport. Customer number XXXXXXX. I would like a cruise control system. As the speed sensor, TPS and throttle actuators are already on the bike, this should be very easy for Ducati and much better than an aftermarket solution. I know many other riders are interested. Is this feature being considered for this bike? Thanks, Tim Click to expand...
Dear Mr XXXX, Thanks for contacting us. With regard to your e-mail we would inform you the customer service is not in the position to provide you with information on future releases or company's future plans. However, we would like to thank you for your suggestion. Feedback from our customers are very welcomed: they help us to understand your demands and try to fulfil your expectations, indeed. Thank you very much for your cooperation. Best regards, Xenia Customer Service Ducati Motor Holding Spa Borgo Panigale - Italy Ducati Diavel 2011 - Official Site Ducati Click to expand...

Aurelius

TimOz said: Anyone else interested? Is it worth a petition? Click to expand...

wilson59

$1100 . Wow  

Turbo

Try it...it doesn't dull your sense. It simply allows your wrist to relax on those boring bits.  

w0mb2t

has anyone tried a cable tie around the throttle yet ? i know it works well on some bikes ..  

I would be interested in one from Ducati. With the bikes electronics, I would for sure want a factory option and not an add on piece. They are nice when you're droning down the interstate.  

the products from that Australian company are effective and look factory-installed. very clean. but pricey as a result. small company serving a very small market. i get pain/inflammation in my hand when holding the throttle steady for long periods, so would love c.c. for long freeway stints. but i doubt we'll see it on a Ducati any time soon, doesn't fit their sporting image. power-shifter more likely!  

Sock Monkey

I installed a Throttlemeister (light version, $130USD). As a bonus it provides bar end weighting to further deaden the already minimal vibes. It's great for those long boring sections as it gives me a chance to rest my right hand/wrist/arm. Highly recommended. :yeah: -Sock Monkey  

Brew

Me too, had it installed at the factory in town here. Obviously it doesn't maintain a constant speed but you are able to relieve strain on the right hand.  

For $1100 I would expect a radar controlled system at the least.  

bmwstrider

I really liked the CC on the K1200GT, saved me probably several tickets on long droning Interstate runs. I installed the Audio Vox (vacuum operated) on my Versys, worked pretty well, but bike was too small really to benefit. The Tiger 1050 is borderline needing one, I only know of one installation (also Audio Vox). I know of one installation on the Super Tenere and I plan to probably do that also as I expect to travel more on that bike. The Duc, probably not now, but if I kept it, might be interested. For sure not ever for $500 or more. All the stuff is on the bike, just need to hook up an actuator. Audio Vox makes a new digital which is smaller and more durable than the vacuum models.  

bmwstrider said: All the stuff is on the bike, just need to hook up an actuator. Click to expand...

geobryrap

I have heated grips as well George  

Well that's a lot of opinions. The main reason for a cruise control is not because I am "soft", it is because of my allergy. I am allergic to police and the tickets they love to hand out. If you regularly thrvel the 1,900km from Melbourne to Brisbane (which I do) on the Newell highway which is flat, straight and infested with coppers. If a cruise control can save 3 tickets, even if it is $1100, it has paid for itself and then some. I have been driving my very old Mercedes for the last few trips and it has a cruise control that holds it to the km exactly. I set it to 2% over the posted limit based on GPS speed and cruise. It is waaaaaay harder to keep the MTS1200 to exactly the speed where the cops don't ping you.  

Tim I can sell you a Honda ct110 for a $1000 that will save you getting speeding tickets as well. My main focus when I go out riding is to get home alive getting a speeding ticket is just a pain in the arse not a disaster.  

martys

I have the Throttlemeisters as well, they're ok for what they are and that's just a grip lock. I had a K1200RS with cruise control and it was fabulous on long rides. it was also very handy to use while taking quick snaps with a point and shoot. yes, it can make you lazy, but if you've got it, use it and enjoy it.  

My main focus when I go out riding is to get home alive getting a speeding ticket is just a pain in the arse not a disaster. Click to expand...
TimOz said: To get cruise control, you only need software in the system somewhere and switches to control it i.e. on, off, accelerate, decelerate. 90% of what is needed is already on the bike. If you don't want it, don't buy the switches. Click to expand...

Konvert

Sorry folks I can't get my head around a cruise control on a Ducati Multi!!! I would detest the idea of Ducati ever offering such an accessory! I too ride Melbourne to Brisbane regularly but choose as many back roads as possible. In fact nearly possible to do all B roads which gives heaps of twisties, no coppers and the scope to go hard. Over the last ten years of doing this I have had no tickets. Cruise control is not the answer and you risk losing the very essence of why you bought the Ducati in the first place. Just my two cents!!!!!  

Thanks for your view Wilson . I suppose Time is an important factor . Between gold coast and the snowy then are some great roads away from the main highway . they do not involve 12hours on straight highway .I could not handle 12hours on a straight road , cruise control or not .sorry I can't agree , I don't think of cruise control as a luxury.  

MTScott2

"does it have cruise?" One of the first questions asked when showing bike to a buddy I haven't seen in years when he dropped in . My response was a sort of puzzled... no it doesn't I think should be there don't activate it if you don't want to...  

Just take a small tour in the US and you will find that there are L O N G stretches of nothing to ride but slab. When you have time restrictions plus very tired you will take the most direct route to get to your destination. Over 700 mile runs you will very much appreciate a CC. For the local area pretty much never think about it. Also while the surging was going on, it would have been useless, but now after getting the motor actually running a CC would work. I really dislike lots of things about the BMWs but the CC (at least on the K12GT) was wonderful and worked better than on my Tundra. You could bump the switch up or down to increase the speed by 1 or 2 mph increments. I rode about 3000 miles in a group of 6 bikes from CO to NH via Ontario, one of the guys had his CC on constantly (R1200RT) and could never get the correct speed because we varied our speeds for the conditions. That was a case for NOT having CC, would have been much better without for sure. I tried to never get behind him in the formation.  

I am sorry but I don't understand cruise control . When you are on a long stretch with it operating does your brain switch off at least in part . The whole idea is to sit back and relax . I imagine that gives both good and bad results . What do you users and not users think ??? Surely you are not as alert and at attention with it on . Concentration and alertness is reduced . My view is on a bike it could be dangerous . Better to get as far as comfortable and stop . Sorry just my personal view . As stated I stay off long slab sections as I am luck enough to have better options , on country or back roads .  

You are correct in that it could be dangerous if used improperly. In my case, for the vast majority of my local riding I, like you, am lucky enough to have plenty of south Georgia backroads to ride. I am, however, going to ride to Colorado in April over mostly interstates. While it would be nice to take all backroads there, I just don't have the vacation time for that long a trip. I'm going to have to get there in 4 days so I can enjoy some of the stunning roads in the Rockies. A cruise control would make the ride to my destination much more comfortable and less likely to get a ticket. I don't think it would make it any more dangerous than riding the interstate with cruise control engaged on your car.  

mollycbr123

TimOz said: Hello. After looking around for cruise controls for I while I have an opportunity to work with an Australian manufacturer to make one specific for the MTS1200. After talking to them it appears to be a system with handlebar switches, A motor/actuator that drives the spindle/TPS that is controlled by the throttle cables and another speed sensor. They don't seem to want to "mess around" with the bikes electronics or electrics at all. The system will sell for around $1,100 and may be available in 2 weeks to 3 months depending on what is needed. Click to expand...

Dr. Greg

One of my biggest frustrations... All subjective reasoning aside, there is NO REASON why the MTS1200 did not ship with cruise control. All the hardware is there (speed sensor, throttle actuators, enough switches, etc.). The only missing "piece" is the software. It would be a trivial investment. Like I said, one of my biggest annoyances. I use a Kaoko, but true closed-loop speed control would be MUCH better. --Doc PS. Yes, I'm a 98-pound limp-wristed weakling...  

Installed the Throttlemeister weekend last. I would sign a petition for the factory unit.  

I would also like to see it available, and don't particularly want to hear anybody telling me I shouldn't use it.  

I never use it in the car and I am on Interstates often with the bike. I've been having some wrist issues the last few years so I might use CC on a bike but if I found myself "disengaging" my brain when engaging the CC I would probably skip using it at all.  

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multistrada 1200 cruise control

DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200S (2015 - 2019) Review

The 2015-2019 Ducati Multistrada

  • One of the greatest sports tourers of its generation
  • Fantastic 1200 motor gets variable valve timing
  • Electronics add a new layer of sophistication

At a glance

Overall rating.

The Ducati Multistrada 1200 S DVT could well be the best-suited bike to the nasty state of UK roads and offers a huge amount to almost everyone.

Ducati launched two versions of the bike; a standard Multistrada 1200 DVT and the S model too. In the UK market the S model outsells the standard model by a significant margin; usually the S model makes up around 65 to 70% of the UK market sales.

The 2015 Multistrada 1200 DVT is a completely new bike and heralds a new engineering milestone for Ducati with the advent of the Desmodromic Variable Timing (DVT) engine. This DVT system a constantly variable valve timing system which aims to give the best of both smoothing off the bottom end of the V-twin’s power delivery but also allowing the 160bhp to produce good top end power too.

The difference between the two bikes can be pinned down to the fitment of the semi-active Skyhook suspension, higher specification  Brembo brakes, it’s available in both red and white, cornering LED headlights and a full colour digital dashboard.

Both models get cornering ABS, Ducati Wheelie Control, Ducati Traction control, four different riding modes, a height-adjustable seat and the Bosch Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) which is the five-axis control and monitoring unit that hangs all of the electronics together.

But should you pick a Multistrada 1200S over its 950 sibling? Watch the video below to find out...

Ride quality & brakes

In the UK market the S version of this bike accounts for more than 80% of sales and that bike gets the Ducati Skyhook Suspension which on this bike is an evolution of the Skyhook semi-active and electronically-controlled system fitted to the 2012 model. Pirelli has also developed a brand-new version Scorpion Trail 2 tyre for the Multistrada and on the warm Lanzarote roads they seemed to be a massive improvement over the old version.

The Ducati Multistrada 1200 S has sporty handling

Despite the size of the bike the handling remains on the sportier end of the adventure bike sector and this bike, thanks to the semi-active suspension can carry serious road pace that will leave sportsbike riders wondering how such a big bike can move so fast.The four riding modes adjust the suspension to suit and even alter ride height.

The biggest news is the Desmodromic Variable Timing (DVT) which, despite the name has nothing to do with a blood clotting issue, but is the first constantly variable valve timing system which has a multitude of aims from smoothing out low-rev clatter, boosting high-rev power and all the time maintaining a more constant combustion cycle throughout the rev range which also improves fuel consumption and emissions.

At idle the engine sounds quite different to the Testrastretta 11 motor of the previos ‘Strada; it’s softer, quieter and less lumpy.

Ducati Multistrada 1200 S engine is a wonderful thing

Moving off at the gentlest of revs to try and ‘make’ the engine misbehave results in none of the former engine’s tendency to slap, chug or create that longitudinal shunt between the cylinders that made town riding unpleasant. For some this is going to be loss of character but for everyone else it will come as a relief and Ducati hope it will remove a barrier to prospective owners buying a Ducati.

Reliability & build quality

Ducati says it has worked hard to improve the finish of the new Multistrada as the previous two versions of the bike have been known to cause issues; particularly with seizing exhaust valves due to corrosion.

The rear brake was also widely regarded as not up to scratch but this has been improved on the new bike and there is a larger diameter rear disc which offers more stopping power. Build quality on the launch bikes was first rate but it will be interesting to see how these bikes fair when compared to the old ones after a British winter on salt-covered roads.

Some owners do report Ducati Multistrada 1200 S reliability problems, but they also love their bikes

Our Ducati Multistrada 1200 S owners' reviews tell a typically 'Ducati' story, in that there are a few electrical and mechanical issues reported, but in the main buyers are happy to overlook them as part of the experience. Worth having a read if you're worried. 

Value vs rivals

There’s no getting away from the fact the Multistrada 1200 DVT was an expensive bike but for those able and prepared to pay the money the quality and specification of the bike took away some of the sting. The cheaper, standard model did away with the semi-active suspension but these generally make up for a tiny percentage of the bikes sold in the UK. Ducati owners generally want the higher spec bikes and are prepared to pay for it.

Group test: Ducati Multistrada 1200 vs BMW S1000XR Sport vs KTM 1190 Adventure vs BMW R1200GS Alpine vs Kawasaki Versys 1000 vs Triumph Explorer

Ducati Multistrada 1200 vs BMW S1000XR Sport vs KTM 1190 Adventure vs BMW R1200GS Alpine vs Kawasaki Versys 1000 vs Triumph Explorer

This is one of the closest tests we’ve had in a long time because every bike is capable of delivering to such a high level – but each excels in different areas. In many ways it comes down to what you want most from your adventure bike, but the aim of this test was to find the bike that can cover big miles and yet slap the biggest smile on your face when the going gets twisty.

Bringing up the rear is the Triumph Explorer. It’s super-comfortable and perfect on long slogs, making it a great touring bike, but it’s happiest habitat is a straight dual carriageway. Throw it at some bends, and the soft forks, soggy rear end and resultant weight transfer issues rob it of its ‘fun’ factor in short order.

The Kawasaki is the most affordable bike on test. It lacks gadgets, but makes up for it with a smooth motor and comfy all-day riding position. While it can hold its own with the big guns, it’s not as advanced or as thrilling. But it does pip the Triumph. 

The R1200GS, Multistrada and 1190 Adventure fill out all but the top spot with just a whisker between them. The GS is the most versatile bike here and the best all-round compromise, but the Multi and 1190 better the GS for kicks. 

Both are more engaging, and the raw usability of the 1190 just gives it the edge over the Ducati on the fun barometer. That leaves us with the XR. Our only criticisms are a mild lack of comfort, and a bit of vibration through the bars. But that’s it. It’s the best handling, with the most satisfying engine and the best equipment. 

So, we’ll forgive an achy bum after a 150-mile stint in the saddle, because of the smile it put on our faces when the road tightened up. It’s the most accomplished bike on test, and when it comes to the crunch it’s the bike we’d all choose.

The DVT system is just the start of the technological tsunami packaged up in the Multistrada range. Both standard and S models have a massive range of high technology including ABS with a cornering ABS function, traction and wheelie control, cruise control for the first time, adjustable riding modes, ride by wire throttle control and the S model gets Skyhook semi-active suspension, a full colour dashboard, higher spec Brembo M50 brakes and a full LED headlight with a cornering function and the Ducati Multimedia system too.

Ducati Multistrada 1200 clocks

The Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) is the electronic system that measures five different axes to measure roll, pitch and yaw angles, lean as well as the rate of change to control everything from the Skyhook semi-active suspension, cornering ABS, anti-wheelie and traction control systems.

The S model gets the more advanced dashboard which is a 5in wide TFT display giving information on speed, rpm, selected gear, total mileage, two trips, coolant temperature, fuel gauge and the time. Other information shown varies according to the riding mode selected.

Four accessory packs are available; Urban, Enduro, Touring and Sport and they can be mixed and matched according to the owner’s choice.

Paniers akimbo on the Ducati Multistrada 1200

Model history & versions

Model history.

  • 2010: First generation of Multistrada 1200 was launched and was the first bike to get the new Testastretta 11 engine.
  • 2013: Multistrada 1200 gets Skyhook semi-active suspension and a host of minor upgrades. Multistrada 1200 D-Air launched in conjunction with Dainese and incorporates sensors to link up with D-Air airbag jacket.
  • 2015: New DVT engine introduced in heavily revised model. 
  • 2018: Replaced by Ducati Multistrada 1260 . 

Other versions

There's also a stock Multistrada 1200, and a Dainese D|Air enabled version of the 1200S.

Owners' reviews for the DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200S (2015 - 2019)

11 owners have reviewed their DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200S (2015 - 2019) and rated it in a number of areas. Read what they have to say and what they like and dislike about the bike below.

Review your DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200S (2015 - 2019)

None. love it!

Buying experience: After a bad start Ducati Manchester were brilliant

Annual servicing cost: £145

- A little top heavy, high servicing costs, quite tall, I'm 5' 8" 66 yrs old dropped it several times in the first year, when it goes that's it no stopping it! Now has barkbusters, engine guard! + Fast, great 2 up, lots of adjustment re setup. Surprisingly good MPG, 2 up touring 50 mpg+ thrash it drops like a stone lol.

It's Italian ! Doesn't like low revs!

Annual servicing reasonable if you use an independent qualified Ducati mechanic. Main service has to be dealer (15k miles,) no change from £1k I reckon at least.

+ electronic control of ride engine/ suspension etc. FBW throttle pretty good, comfortable, OEM tyres very good reasonable wear. - electronic adjustment bit of a faff

Buying experience: Dealer was a white not so many sold, I don't like red! Great PX on my Ducati Scrambler Classic, bought 3 yrs ago I paid about 8k cash. + PX

Version: Pikes Peak

Annual servicing cost: £600

After a myriad of brand new BMW that corroded, the quality of the build on the PP is astounding. Fuel sender issue is common place, and mine has just gone. Still fully usable, just inconvenient.

Cannot believe how good the standard Ohlins are, and the M55 Brembos are at the same level. Middle of the road settings more than good enough for everyday use. Not tested the pillion yet, not big runs, but 2 hr spins ha e been very favourable to K1600GT

Love the 2 stroke feel in the DVT. Whole transmission piece is light years ahead of the GS and GT, pleasure to use, even with no quickshift.

Stunning, so much better than BMW.

Thus was the belt service, last year was 200

Ohlins and a good tank bag. But most of all the full race Termi really sets it apart, makes it for me.

Buying experience: Bought from BMW dealership

Version: INC Touring Pack

Definitely recommend this bike, the sound, thrust, comfort solo and two up are brilliant. I love the technology too, sooo many things to tinker with! Best feature is that it has brilliant handling, so I am never able to exceed the limits of this bike. Worst feature is the cost of full DMC servicing.

This is where the expensive 'cost of ownership' pays off... If you keep this bike in good condition, it is always at its best. Comfortable 1 or 2 up, full luggage or empty (press a button to compensate!). Whether you ride at 0-5 degrees in winter or 25 plus it is just amazing how good it makes you feel. This section is about ride quality and brakes, my suggestion is stick Michelin Road 5's on, keep the service components up to date and you will always have a bike that is superb...

I ride with the IAM and some times we do some some 'slow stuff', cones, braking practice etc, the engine doesn't like too much of that, I tried a 'booster plug device' to aid slow speed throttle control. Helped a bit... However everything above is about sub 2000 rpm, just get above that and as long as you don't expect Japanese 4 cylinder red-lines (the V twin is much lower) everything else is just brilliant, absolutely brilliant. Add a pillion, add luggage, tweak the electronic suspension and it won't be measurably slower. Everything I had before the 1200S was Japanese, so it was a learning curve, but have to say it was worth it...

The only problem was a gear selector sensor that failed twice (one time each year). This makes it difficult to select neutral at standstill and sometimes the gear indicator display gets confused. Once changed under warranty, but also failed the next year and was charged £120 to replace it. Didn't appreciate that as it was fine going into a Ducati service centre but had failed when I drove it out. When they fixed it a week later they charged me?

I replaced tyres, chains & sprockets, brake pads, oil and oil filters myself when required, oil and oil filters changed at 4500 miles mid point to the 9000 mile manufacturers recommendation. 18000 mile service was over £1000.I think as long as you are prepared (I was) for the £600 (average) cost it is OK. If you expect £200 per year you are in for a shock.

In it's day 2016-2017, it was THE best in the world, that's why I bought it. The electronics, dash, suspension (everything important) worked perfectly. Really nice touches, like the pannier brackets that are basically invisible when the bags are removed. After-market shorter screen worked better for me. Michelin Road 5's are brill if you ride all year (if you do, you already know). Wife found the pillion seat too hard and angled, so swopped for a TouraTec version which she preferred. Later on I found a TouraTec rider seat and bought that, maybe slightly better, but I didn't find the OEM seat bad in any way, just wanted the seats to match! The bike can link to the Ducati Ride app, or whatever Ducati call their version?, I tried this across various versions over 3 years, some worked to some degree, some didn't work and some bits worked always, I would call it a 60% experience.

Buying experience: Bought from a dealer, mine was an ex-demo bike, about 1k miles. Think I paid about 14k when the price of a brand new model (of the same spec) was £18k.Happy with the price.I have since added 23k miles in 3 years.

Version: Touring

Annual servicing cost: £250

Power, comfort and handling. All you can ask for in a multi-role-strada. Done two tours, one of them 3500+ miles in 2 weeks and not a single issue. Track day ... No problem. From new it needed a few little bits to make this bike perfect. Fuelling needs sorting by fitting a booster plug. Throttle butterfly needs cutting out. After that its all smiles. No other bike has done so much so well.

Won't keep with modern 1k bikes but then again thats not what its for. It will do anything you ask and you still wont reach its limits - unless your intials are VR. It's fast enough for 99% of bikers.Buy the comfort seat and 300+ miles a day is easy. Pillion perch is big and wide enough for your fat bottomed company. Touring cases take just enough for a 2 week excursion. Fuel tank good for about 180miles as long as you keep it semi sensible.

1200cc of L-Twin grunt .... Peach of an engine when on song. A bit lumpy at low revs.

5 years of ownership and the only 2 faults were the battery in the remote fob died and a fork seal popped. Other than that its been sweet as a nut.

You know its a Ducati right? ... Yes servicing and parts are very expensive. But you get what you pay for. Its the Ferrari of the bike world remember. If you plan on reselling then a Ducati Service history is a must.

Keyless ignition, cornering ABS / Traction control, LED screen, heated grips all as standard. Bikes OEM Pirelli Angel GT tyres are really good choice and I've stuck with them. Brakes are fab especially with the cornering ABS ... Saved my bacon a couple of times.Ducati fit 'Ducati Wheelie Control' to the bike which is a real giggle. It doesn't stop the bikes front coming up as much as it sets which height off the floor the wheel will go to. Makes wheelies safe and fun.

Buying experience: Bought from a Dealer. No issues.

Version: DVT, Touring

As the name suggests, this bike does everything, everywhere - for most people. I confess I haven't really pushed it off road, but otherwise I cant fault it in any conditions on the road. Solo, or with my wife as pillion, it is just brilliant to ride. I felt a bit intimidated by its size at first, but with the low seat setting (I am 5'8"), both feet reach to ground, and on the move it feels so solid and secure as well as being flickable, if you know what I mean.

I have had a whole range of bikes since my student days (40 years ago), and this is by far the best of the lot. It can be fast, or comfortable, or laden. It can be for posing, or revving or cruising. It works around town or out in the country. It does it all with style, quality, a great sound and that Italian-nes that is hard to describe.

Different engine modes let you have what you want. Urban is really only in wet or icy conditions, although it does lower the bike which does help if I have the pillion on, and am in town. touring is the default setting-full power, but gentler delivery. Fast enough for me - thank god for the anti wheelie control! Sport is a bit too abrupt and fierce for the road, with stiff suspension that really sets it up for the track rather than the road. Enduro lifts the bike, switches off the traction control and in theory lets you explore offload (I haven't really) I have had twins and fours in the past (no triples yet), and this does seem the best of both worlds. The DVT allows trundling around to be smooth at low speeds, yet open it up and off she goes like a bat out of hell. It gives the nice grumble of a twin at low speeds , but really sounds good as she revs up!

So far, it has just required the scheduled servicing, and replacement tyres. I covered every fastener and anything that didn't move in anti rust treatment, and it still looks as good as new

Its a Ducati, so actually I expected it to be more expensive! I use Ducati Glasgow and get the video tour before the service. The workshop is immaculate and clearly the mechanics know their stuff. The bike is completely stripped, serviced then reassembled and cleaned. I usually head into town for a coffee and browse for a couple of hours before heading back and picking it up.

For me the touring version has about everything you need on this bike. Heated grips, panniers, centre stand. All the electronics and gadgets needed, although the bluetooth is a bit confusing and there seems to be a constant battle going on with my mobile phone, my intercom and the Ducati. you can adjust all the settings individually if you want, but the default settings work for me, apart form dialling down the traction control, which seemed to kick in far too early, even on relatively gentle acceleration. Panniers are neat, stylish, strong and big enough.

Buying experience: Dealer. Excellent experience. Discussed it all at length online with videos etc, then turned up, paid the money and rode away into the sunset (actually it was driving rain)

Wonderful two-up Tourer that allows itself to be turned into a perfect twisty mountain road bike when you are in the Alps.

Version: Multistrada 1200 DVT base model (touring)

Annual servicing cost: £380

Comfortable, fast and looks good but let down by poor quality of fixing and seat which is a very poor fit to the bike. Great to ride but overpriced for the quality you're getting.

Brembos on base model are okay but no better that my old Suzuki GSX1250. The S version has stronger more expensive Brembos which are very good. Very comfortable for the pillion; my wife is very happy on the back and we've covered many full days touring across Europe.

Plenty of power - thrilling when you open her up. Only really pulls hard from 5k rpm upwards.

Silencer cover bolts seized after just 18 months so had to drill them out to get a new back tyre fitted (the bike is garaged and not used in the winter). Some metal fittings corrode, fuel sender fails, exhaust valve sticks and has to be bypassed at extra cost (even under warranty).

Excellent service for WM Snells, Ducati Alton.

Good heated grips, great panniers (look good colour matched) easy to take on and off and no horrible scaffolding to attach them to the bike (a la BMW). Good info on LCD dash.

Buying experience: Good from Ryders at Bridgewater.

Annual servicing cost: £500

The bike is amazing, do it well on any surface, have try it on landscapes and hard roads and it was ok, then I was on the track and it behave as a sport bike, 195 Km/h on a 520 meters straight.

it have a lack of torque between 3000 and 5000 rpm, it is noticeable in every riding mode, it have been solve in the new 1260 models engine that I have tried and its perfect. They should have do something with the old models because they solve the problem for new buyers but the people that already have the bike have nothing to do.

sometimes It is hard to start, especially on cold weather, it cranks slow every time, which makes me feel its going to fail. The bluetooth its useless and the dash scratch to easy, not perfect but very close.

The service labor is expensive but you pay for profesional service, they change my trhottle with no cost for me (a 400 change).

Buying experience: owner of Xdiavel and Panigale 1299.

My Dream Motorcycle is what it is. But the price that you pay, for the quality that you receive, cost it 2STARS....

Top the comfort and quality ride. Only down is the panniers to the pillion.

Everything to like, always available to gas. But in 4 to 6 rpm, cut a like of that boost (Euro IV).

Noisy plastics, brakes; Not uniform space in plastics, seat; Front discs corrosion; Sometimes fail to start; Too many times at the dealer to solve the lot of problems.

Almost 40€/hr of labor, it is outrageous! Almost 25€/L of oil, it is outrageous!

Besides the lower quality of the bluetooth conectivity, and the lack of usability of the cornering lights, everything is top, starting in the suspension.

Buying experience: From a dealer and the worst deal made from my history purchase of motorcycles. Always get around 15/20% off. This one only 5%.

This is my first venture into a twin engined motorcycle. To put it simply this is the best bike overall I've owned bar none. The bike does everything very well indeed and certainly exceeds in some areas. Single riding for fun blasts right through to two up fully loaded touring, I've found the bike to be extremely easy to handle. Not as smooth as a four or six cylinder engine bike but I find I can readily ignore that and focus on the huge benefits the bike has. Ducati have made a very beautiful bike and have even managed to make it look good with a full complement of luggage and you can't say that about every bike. Overall I would describe this bike in one word - Fantastic!

This bike's agility and ability to corner is most definitely the best feature of the bike in my opinion. Even two up it turns in without hesitation and handles like a dream. Always feels planted and focussed and has never appeared to be out of its depth. The seat is comfy enough for an hour or two riding without a break. My pillion reported the bike to be very comfy. The breaks are very efficient on the front and although this years model is vastly improved on last years, the rear brake could be better.

There are a couple of weak or flat spots on the acceleration climb that I have noted and on a couple of occasions I have felt a bit underwhelmed. Beware though, the speed is very deceptive. In reality the bike is much more rapid than it can feel when riding it. A glance down at the speedometer will confirm you are travelling fast - very fast! This DVT version is greatly improved on the 2014 version i test rode last year. The engine handles slow traffic in a much more refined way and the quicker you move the happier it feels. Overall the engine is very good and again, two up appears not to affect the performance very much. Make no mistake the engine is excellent but the odd little flat spot is present.

The quality is good but not exceptional as I feel it should be for a bike of this value. Beautiful bike to look at but on very close inspection some attention to detail is lacking 5 star quality. For example some of the fairing parts are not equally matched to both sides of the bike. There was a little more plastic on the bike than I expected (weight positive?). Small niggles but downgraded as a result.

Only one first oil change service completed and the cost was in line with the previous BMW bike I had. Expect higher than back street garage bills - it's a Ducati after all!

The S version of the bike comes complete with a vast array of accessories. "Skyhook" suspension, cornering ABS, cruise control, heated grips, riding modes, colour screen are all excellent features. A feature that would really enhance this bike would be a quick shifter and I think Ducati have missed a trick here. Surely next years' model will have this added?

multistrada 1200 cruise control

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2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S

multistrada 1200 cruise control

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Review

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S on www.Totalmotorcycle.com

Go everywhere…

The Multistrada 1200 S takes riding beyond all the barriers of compromise. Nothing stands in your way. Unbeatable on tarmac, perfect and comfortable for long-distance travelling, fun off the road and agile through town. Thanks to the Ducati Testastretta DVT engine, cutting-edge Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evo and refined electronics, there are no limits to the versatility of this true multibike. Just get on and head where you want.

Infinite roads, no sacrifice.

A concentration of innovations, advanced technology and refined style. This is the Multistrada. A bike that elevates the riding experience to a dimension without compromise. No sacrifice with the Ducati Testastretta DVT engine. Power, torque and fluidity are guaranteed by an innovative double variable valve timing system that gives perfect distribution with each change in speed. No sacrifice in terms of riding precision. The ABS cornering, Ducati Wheelie Control and Skyhook suspension communicate perfectly with the Bosch inertial platform to ensure stability and safety when turning or riding in a straight line, as well as when braking and accelerating. No sacrifice in terms of style. A dynamic, fluid and technological design, LED headlights and state-of-the-art full-TFT colour instrumentation make for breath-taking appeal and attention to detail.

Dynamic, sophisticated, technologically advanced, unique; in two words: Italian Style

Flowing lines and essential surfaces create a volume difference between the front and rear: the final result is a dynamic, sporty design. The striking front view with a colour-matched “beak”, embellished by the signature Ducati logo, is characterised by an aggressive, high-tech headlight which, together with the compact rear light with light-guide effect, are iconic features of the Multistrada. The muscular front is in contrast with the streamlined tail, enhanced by the low-slung exhaust: made of top quality die-cast aluminium, it is left in full view to integrate the side luggage supports.

Choose your Multistrada

The Multistrada 1200 exceeds every limit with top of the range standard equipment. With the Multistrada 1200 S, equipped with Skyhook suspension, LED headlights and full-TFT colour display, compromise ceases to exist. While the Multistrada 1200 S D|Air allows for maximum safety. There are infinite ways in which to make the Multistrada stand out. Four customisation packages (Touring, Sport, Urban, Enduro) to enhance the type of use. A wide range of accessories to create made-to-measure kit.

Innovative technology

The Multistrada Enduro combines all the latest technological features available. In terms of Safety, the Bosch IMU platform governs cornering ABS, combined braking, cornering lights, wheelie control and vehicle hold control. All of these features, as well as traction control, can be configured to match rider preference.

The 5″” TFT display changes based on the selected rider mode and has a comprehensive menu system that allows riders to modify the entire motorcycle’s behaviour. Cruise control and back-lit switchgear improve comfort and safety on long rides even during night rides, where the LED headlight brightly illuminates the road ahead.

Electronic semi-active suspension adjusts to any terrain and riding style, while the powerful Testastretta engine equipped with continuosly variable timing has impressive power, optimised for maximum torque and power delivery throughout the rev range.

Trademark Ducati style is maintained and evolved through the use of rugged off-road components. The Multistrada Enduro is an exceptional example of the Ducati values of style, sophistication and performance, dressed in a purposeful design with rugged bodywork and imposing size, but in a sleek and stylish design.

The Multistrada 1200S adapts with ease to any road ensuring superior performance, versatility, comfort, safety and fun. Solutions implement frontline technologies. The Ducati Testastretta DVT engine instantly adjusts according to riding conditions or rider choices. This is what makes the Multistrada 1200S uncompromising in terms of flexibility, allowing for maximum riding pleasure and toprate performance.

As soon as it was launched back in 2010, the Multistrada 1200S revolutionised the motorcycling world by offering, for the very first time, nothing less than four bikes in one: from sport bike to long-distance tourer, from everyday runabout to enduro. Ducati’s technological expertise has produced a generation of Multistradas, bikes featuring the latest Ducati Testastretta DVT (Desmodromic Variable Timing) engine and a state-of-the-art technological package that sets a standard in its product segment. The Multistrada 1200S is the “multibike” par excellence, with cutting-edge technology making it far more than just the 4-bikes-in-1 offered by its Riding Modes.

In what is a first for the motorcycle industry, the DVT engine features a variable valve timing system with independent control of both the intake and exhaust camshafts. This optimises engine performance throughout the power range in all riding conditions, thus ensuring maximum power at high rpm, fluid delivery, punchy low-rpm torque and low fuel consumption in full compliance with the latest Euro 4 regulations.

The Multistrada 1200S also sets an electronics benchmark thanks to the Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU), developed by Bosch technicians, which dynamically measures roll and pitch angles as well as the accelleration on three axis; with this information, the Bosch IMU enhances both performance and safety. For example, the presence of the IMU enables the ABS to include a Cornering system capable of controlling braking even on bends where wheel lock could otherwise cause skidding. On the Multistrada 1200S S it also enables control the Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL) in its full LED headlamp. Moreover, the Bosch IMU has allowed the introduction of Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC): this detects and corrects any front wheel lift to ensure maximum acceleration in complete safety. Like Ducati Traction Control (DTC), DWC features rider-settable 8-level sensitivity. Lastly, the Bosch IMU inertial platform also interacts with the semi-active Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evolution control system featured on the Multistrada 1200S S.

All models feature Electronic Cruise Control, which the rider can set as desired using controls incorporated in the switchgear on the left handlebar. On the S version a Bluetooth module is included as standard: this activates the Ducati Multimedia System and can connect the bike to a smartphone for user-friendly control of basic functions such as receiving incoming calls, notification of text messages, or playing music via the handlebar controls and on-dash info. Thanks to an iOS/Android app, the Bluetooth connection lets riders use bike data to activate other functions which enhance, extend or let them share their everyday riding or touring experiences.

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S www.Totalmotorcycle.com Key Features

Multistrada 1200 S (and Multistrada 1200 S D|Air) • Colours 1. Ducati Red with black wheels rims (1200 S and 1200 S D-Air) 2. Iceberg White with black wheels rims (1200 S only) • Features o Ducati Testastretta DVT engine o Bosch IMU: Inertial Measurement Unit o Bosch-Brembo ABS 9.1ME Cornering braking system o Front brake discs with diameter of 330 mm, Brembo M504 4-piston radial calipers o Electronic cruise control o Ducati Multimedia System (DMS) o Riding Modes o Ride-by-Wire Power Modes (PM) o Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC) o Ducati Traction Control (DTC) o Height-adjustable seat o Electronic Sachs suspension (front and back) with the semi-active Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evolution system o Full LED headlamp with Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL) o Instrument panel with 5” full colour TFT screen o D-Air® system (Multistrada 1200 S D-Air only)

Personalisation Packs • Touring Pack: heated grips, panniers and center stand • Sport Pack: road-legal exhaust (homologated only for EU) Ducati Performance by Termignoni and carbon fibre front mudguard, machined-from-billet aluminium brake and clutch reservoir caps • Urban Pack: top case, tank bag with lock and USB hub • Enduro Pack: supplementary lights and Ducati Performance components by Touratech: engine protection bars, radiator guard, oil sump guard, bigger kickstand base and off-road footpegs

The Multistrada riding experience is enriched also by the Multistrada Link App: a smartphone app, available for iOS and Android, that further explains all content and new features of the bike. Through the app it‘s possible to rate individual aspects of the bike, and submit ideas and comments directly to Ducati. Further, it delivers easily accessible weekly updates of a variety of content.

You decide how to use it

“Urban” mode provides especially soft dosage and response characteristics to support the rider, max engine power is limited at 100 Hp. The DTC/DWC and ABS respond more readily than in “Touring” mode; the damping of the Skyhook EVO suspension at front and rear is softer, in keeping with the conditions.

In “Touring” mode, the control systems are set to ensure optimum performance on dry roads. This mode provides a gentle throttle response on dry roads. “Touring” combines full-engine power and torque with high controllability. Suspension setting is focused on comfort for long distance. “Sport” mode reveals the sportiest face of the new Multistrada 1200 for road riding. Full power (160 Hp), an even more spontaneous and direct throttle response, more restrained DTC/ABS/DWC intervention and tighter damping bring the full potential of the machine.

The “Enduro” mode get the Multistrada 1200 ready to explore new enduro worlds. A soft throttle response with limited engine power (100 Hp), restrained control intervention, optimum brake distribution and ABS control in conjunction with the high-traction set-up of the Skyhook EVO.

THE MULTISTRADA 1200 FAMILY

As soon as it was launched back in 2010, the Multistrada 1200 revolutionised the motorcycling world by offering, for the very first time, nothing less than four bikes in one: from sport bike to long-distance tourer, from everyday runabout to enduro. The new generation of Multistrada bikes, features the latest Ducati Testastretta DVT (Desmodromic Variable Timing) engine and a state-of-the-art technological package that sets a standard in its product segment. The Multistrada 1200 is the “multibike” par excellence, with cutting-edge technology making it far more than just the 4-bikes-in-1 by virtue of its Riding Modes.

In 2016 the Multistrada family will welcome the new Multistrada 1200 Enduro – the model designed to propel Ducati into the maxi road enduro segment. Thanks to its spoked wheels – 19’’ at the front and 17’’ at the rear – the Multistrada 1200 Enduro is perfect for long adventures. Featuring semi-active electronic front and rear Sachs suspension and a 30-litre fuel tank, the Multistrada 1200 Enduro is unstoppable on any terrain and has a range that can exceed 450 kilometres (280 miles).

The Multistrada 1200 Enduro will not be the only new addition to the family: the legendary Pikes Peak International Hill Climb race in Colorado, already won four times by Ducati, inspired the sophisticated Multistrada 1200 Pikes Peak.

The Multistrada 1200 Enduro and Multistrada 1200 Pikes Peak complete a range that already included the Multistrada 1200, 1200 S and 1200 S D|air – unchanged with respect to their 2015 versions. All the Multistrada 1200 models feature the same Ducati Testastretta DVT twin-cylinder engine with Desmodromic Variabile Timing, independently controlling both the intake and the exhaust camshafts.

The Multistrada family establishes a new benchmark also in terms of electronic systems, thanks to the Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) platform developed by Bosch, which dynamically measures pitch and roll angles and acceleration along 3 axes, raising performance and safety standards even further. The IMU control unit manages the Cornering ABS and Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC) systems available on all the family models, and, where available, also the Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL) system of the Full LED headlight and the Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evolution semi-active electronic suspension system. All the models are now equipped with an electronic speed control that the rider can set using the buttons integrated in the handlebar switchgear.

A number of Ducati Performance accessories are available for all the Multistrada versions, also included in the Touring, Enduro, Urban and Sport packages, which for the Multistrada 1200 Enduro consist of different accessories.

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S www.Totalmotorcycle.com Features and Benefits Technology-inspired design

Stylistically inventive and technologically advanced, the Multistrada 1200 is a limitless bike able to indulge and adapt to the rider’s every need. A simple click transforms it from super sport to long-distance tourer, yet it is equally capable as an everyday bike for getting to work or handling grittier off-road routes. All these characteristics have been poured into a design that is more mature, sophisticated and effective than ever.

The style of the Multistrada 1200 enhances its perceived quality compared to the previous model. Clean surfaces, taut lines and contrasting front and rear visual mass give it dynamism and sportiness. A greater number of painted parts lend it sophistication, while close attention to plastic part attachment has greatly reduced the number of screws in sight. Distinctive features also include the compact full LED headlamp which is aggressive-looking yet decidedly high-tech, and the rear tail light. Aspects such as the frame, which provides an optimum balance of weight and performance, the rear aluminium subframe with incorporated luggage rack, and the new, ergonomic practical switchgear are just some of the features that underscore Ducati’s conscientious attention to detail. Just like the key with an aluminium insert, and the, modern, compact instrument panel (LCD on the standard, TFT on the S and D-Air versions).

Everything on the Multistrada 1200 has been designed for practicality and effectiveness. For example, the rider’s seat is narrow at the front, allowing an easier reach to the ground; it’s also 20 mm longer and offers 20 mm of height-adjustment. The passenger seat is lower and the passenger grab handles are more ergonomic. The windshield height adjustment system is more fluid and can be operated with only one hand. Thanks to careful attention to every single component, the Multistrada 1200 has a dry weight of just 209 kg. Together with the bike’s optimal chassis set-up, this low weight gives the Multistrada 1200 exceptional handling, crucial in sport riding and when weaving through city traffic or riding over uneven terrain.

Ergonomic, comfort-focussed design

Developed to perform also as a long-distance tourer, the Multistrada 1200 was, from the very start, the subject of in-depth ergonomic studies both at CAD level and via repeated prototype testing, the aim being to ensure outstanding comfort with a fully laden bike. Ducati carefully analysed the “ergonomic triangle” of both rider and passenger to ensure comfort that allows extended journeys without fatigue.

This spacious bike can easily accommodate two people plus top case and panniers. The 1,530 mm wheelbase ensures optimal centring of the rider (and panniers, where attached), thus enhancing dynamic vehicle performance. To underscore the multi-role nature of the Multistrada 1200 even further the ergonomics have been developed and tested to allow out-of-the-seat riding, essential for off-road use. The footpegs have been fitted with rubber inserts to insulate against vibration but these can also be removed to provide serrated-edge footpegs for added grip with off-road boots.

On the Multistrada 1200 the seat is height-adjustable between 825 and 845 mm and, thanks to generous dimensions, immediately offers a sensation of comfort and wanderlust. The wide, tapered handlebars have also been designed to optimise comfort and to provide a dominant riding position without compromising tight turning performance. Moreover, the handlebars are mounted on damping blocks to filter out vibration and provide an optimal mix of comfort and road feel.

A roomy storage area under the passenger seat contains the tool kit, and manual, with space also for other personal items.

The windshield on the Multistrada 1200 is high and wide, its surfaces shaped to provide greater rider protection over long distances. It also features a 60 mm vertical adjustment range: this is set with just one hand. Two 12 V power sockets, one positioned immediately underneath the passenger seat and the other on the front section of the bike, are available: these can carry loads of up to 8 A (fused) and power items such as heated clothing, intercoms or mobile phone chargers. Available as a Ducati Performance accessory, the GARMIN sat-nav is powered via a special connector near the instrumentation. A USB socket is also available in the under-seat zone; this can be connected to a smartphone.

Numerous optional features make the Multistrada perfect for long-distance touring: these include the stylish, roomy panniers, which are redesigned to enhance both style and practicality and are easily removable. Other touring features include heated grips, which are indispensable in poor weather, and the centre stand, which is useful when the bike is fully loaded.

DUCATI TESTASTRETTA DVT

A new generation

By independently varying the timing of the camshaft that controls the intake valves and the camshaft that controls the exhaust valves, the DVT engine optimises high-rpm performance to provide maximum power. At low-to-medium rpm, instead, it smooths operation, making power delivery more fluid and boosting torque. In practice, this is an engine that changes its characteristics as rpm varies while complying with Euro 4 specifications and giving good fuel economy.

When designing an engine one of the key performance parameters is intake and exhaust valve overlap. This is defined as the interval of crankshaft rotation, expressed in degrees, during which both valves remain open simultaneously. Overlap, which occurs between the end of the exhaust phase and the start of the intake phase, is usually a fixed parameter – but not on the DVT.

Variance of the valve overlap angle has been achieved by adopting the DVT (Desmodromic Variable Timing) system: a valve timing adjuster applied on the ends of each of the two overhead camshafts. The DVT system is divided into two parts: an external housing rigidly connected to the timing belt and an internal mechanism connected to the camshaft: the latter is coaxial to the former and can rotate in advance or delay with respect to the housing depending on the oil pressure in special chambers. This oil pressure is adjusted by dedicated valves and the timing of each cam is controlled dynamically by a sensor in the cam covers.

Desmo delight

As might be expected, the Testastretta DVT engine uses the Desmodromic valve actuation system that has made Ducati’s Bologna-built bikes famous worldwide. This special system closes the intake and exhaust valves mechanically, with the same precision as they are opened. The term desmodromic stems from the Greek words desmos (link) and dromos (stroke), and refers to mechanisms with a control to operate them in one direction (e.g. opening) and another to activate them in the other (closure or return).The soundness of this system, used on all Ducati models, is demonstrated by its utilisation on Ducati Corse’s Superbikes and MotoGP bikes.

In the Testastretta DVT engine, Desmodromic valve actuation provides a clear advantage over traditional valve springs; at low revs the system requires less force because there are no springs to be compressed. This makes it possible to keep the individual valve timing adjusters compact, which minimizes their weight and allows them to be smoothly integrated.

Ever-present strong torque

As a result, with a bore of 106 mm and stroke of 67.9 mm (giving a total displacement of 1198 cm³) the Ducati Testastretta DVT puts out 160 hp at 9500 rpm and 136 Nm of torque at 7500 rpm, with very linear delivery. In fact, even at just 3500 rpm the available torque is already 80 Nm and remains near-constant, exceeding 100 Nm between 5750 and 9500 rpm.

Yet the DVT system, despite the increase in power, also decreases fuel consumption, which drops by an average of 8% over the riding cycle.

Ducati’s continuous research and development into injection systems has led, on the Testastretta DVT, to the use of fuel injectors positioned to direct their spray onto the heated rear of the intake valve instead of the relatively cooler intake duct wall. This maximises fuel vaporisation, improving combustion and smoothness.

The DVT is also equipped with the Dual Spark (DS) system, which uses two spark plugs per cylinder to enhance combustion efficiency and time. Each spark plug has independent ignition control to ensure optimisation throughout the rev range under all riding conditions. There is also an anti-knock sensor to keep the engine running smoothly even when lower-octane fuels are used or under other conditions (e.g. high altitude) that might affect combustion.

Lastly, to maximize performance and minimize emissions, the Testastretta DVT also features a secondary air system. This allows a richer fuel mixture to be used without increasing emissions, by completely oxidizing unburnt hydrocarbons to keep HC and CO levels to a minimum.

The clutch on the Multistrada 1200 is of the oil-bath slipper type and can be operated with light effort at the lever, thanks to a progressive self-servo mechanism which allows a reduced clutch spring load. The result is improved feel and outstanding comfort even during frequent gear changing, in city traffic or on long-distance trips. Upon deceleration, the same mechanism reduces pressure on the clutch plates, giving them a slipper effect to prevent hopping of the rear end during aggressive downshifts.

The exhaust system layout is based on two primary manifolds that merge directly in the single 2-chamber silencer; the latter, in addition to acting as a 2-1-2 collector, contains the catalytic converter. From here exit two pipes directly to the light, compact silencers, which are side-mounted and feature aluminium alloy outer sleeves.

Long maintenance intervals

Constant investment in quality – ensured by design, advanced materials and cutting-edge engineering – has allowed Ducati to reduce scheduled maintenance requirements; routine maintenance intervals have been extended to 15,000 km (9,000 miles) (or one year) and valve timing adjustment to 30,000 km (18,000 miles), providing clear advantages for customers. This has been achieved by employing special materials for the valve seats, improving combustion efficiency, and containing the running temperature of the Testastretta DVT engine. Moreover, the innovative DVT system does not in any way complicate the valve timing adjustment procedure.

INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY

The introduction of the Bosch IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) has reshaped the 4-bikes-in-1 concept that lies at the core of the Multistrada. In addition to allowing implementation of all the electronic strategies already featured on the previous version, the new Multistrada 1200 also introduces Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC) and Cornering ABS. The four Riding Modes (Sport, Touring, Urban and Enduro) are made even more effective as, on the Multistrada 1200 S, they are supported by the new Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evolution; this configures the suspension setup dynamically in response to different road and riding conditions, maintaining control, performance, and comfort at all times.

On the Multistrada 1200 engine output is controlled by a Ride By Wire system. Power is not adjusted directly via a throttle cable; instead, throttle body opening is regulated by the engine control unit after it reads and processes the Ride by Wire signal input. This means three different mappings can be used to adjust power delivery.

Sport Riding Mode Selecting Sport Riding Mode provides a thrilling 160 hp and a breathtaking 136 Nm of torque, together with (on the S version) a sporty suspension setup with the appropriate DSS mapping. Sport Mode is also characterised by low levels of Ducati Traction Control and Ducati Wheelie Control, and a level 2 ABS setting. This gives braking response that suits highly dynamic riding, with a slight reduction in combined front/rear action and rear-wheel lift detection off, while maintaining Cornering ABS functionality.

Touring Riding Mode In Touring Riding Mode the Multistrada 1200 provides the engine’s full 160 hp with a smoother, less direct throttle response compared to Sport Mode. Active safety is enhanced by higher DTC and DWC sensitivity levels, to maintain rock-solid stability. The ABS is set to interaction level 3, perfect for touring; this turns rear-wheel lift detection and Cornering ABS functionality on, while also optimising the front/rear combined braking effect. On the S version a suspension setup perfect for long-distance rides is selected, ensuring maximum comfort for rider and passenger alike, while the DSS mapping is reconfigured for additional on-bike load.

Urban Riding Mode In Urban Riding Mode power output is reduced to a maximum of 100 hp, and on the S version suspension is set for optimum agility with corresponding DSS mapping. DTC and DWC are set to high levels for maximum security on less-than-perfect city roads. ABS is set to “Safe and Stable”(3), which maximises the sensation of confidence: rear-wheel lift detection is on, front/rear combined braking is optimised, and Cornering functionality is engaged.

Enduro Riding Mode The Multistrada 1200’s Enduro Riding Mode sets engine power to a maximum of 100 hp, with off-road oriented suspension settings and DSS mapping for the S. DTC and DWC level settings are low and the ABS is set to level 1 interaction, suitable for off-road use on low grip surfaces: rear-wheel lift detection is off, Cornering functionality is off, and ABS on the rear wheel is disabled.

DTC (Ducati Traction Control)

A key part of the Ducati Safety Pack, DTC – a pure racing offshoot – is an intelligent system that acts as a filter between the rider’s right hand and the rear tyre. In just a few thousandths of a second, DTC can detect and control rear wheelspin, boosting performance and active safety significantly.

This system has eight different intervention levels. Each one has been programmed to provide a rear wheelspin tolerance that matches progressive levels of riding ability (classified from one to eight). Level 1 has the lowest degree of system intervention, while level 8, intended for wet road surfaces, gives maximum prevention of wheelspin. On the Multistrada 1200 DTC is incorporated into the Riding Modes. DTC levels within the four modes are initially pre-set but can subsequently be personalised and saved to suit individual riding styles or preferences. The outcome of thousands of hours of road and track tests, this technology significantly enhances safety when accelerating in turns. A Default function lets the user restore the original factory settings.

Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC)

This system was developed from that used on the 1199 Superleggera: using data from the Bosch IMU, it analyses the attitude of the bike (to detect any front wheel lift) and controls torque and power accordingly to maximise acceleration in safety without destabilising balance. Like DTC, it features 8-level adjustment and is incorporated into the Riding Modes. Again, a Default function lets the user restore the original factory settings.

Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evolution

The DSS (Ducati Skyhook Suspension) Evolution system has now been developed even further. This evolved version includes a new Sachs fork with pressurised damper cartridge and low-friction stanchion, a new sensor to control the action of the rear damper plus new software that also handles data from the Bosch IMU and features new algorithms. Included as standard on the Multistrada 1200 S, the DSS platform has a 48 mm front fork and a Sachs rear monoshock, both electronic; this allows the DSS to continuously adjust hydraulic damper compression and rebound using semi-active control to ensure correct vehicle balance. In this way the bike remains stable independently of road surface conditions, significantly increasing comfort and safety.

The Skyhook name stems from the unique sensation experienced during riding, as if the bike were suspended from a hook in the sky, keeping it balanced and stable. This innovative technology outperforms conventional passive suspension systems through constant control of dynamic wheel behaviour. In the DSS Evolution system, settings have been further refined to maximize performance, safety, and comfort.

DSS Evolution technology analyses data from numerous sensors on the sprung and unsprung weights of the bike to calculate and set the damping needed to make the ride as smooth as possible. An accelerometer on the steering yoke, one at the rear of the bike and one inside the control unit that tracks the DDS Evolution provide data on sprung weight while an accelerometer on the fork bottom provides input on unsprung weight. At the rear, another sensor measures suspension travel. The DSS Evolution processes this information via a semi-active control algorithm that, by referring to an imaginary fixed point in the sky above the bike, makes extremely rapid adjustments to the hydraulic damper to minimise vehicle movement in relation to this point: just as if the bike were suspended from it (hence the term “skyhook”).

To smooth the longitudinal forces of acceleration and deceleration, the system also makes use of the Ducati Traction Control (DTC) longitudinal accelerometer sensor, the ABS system pressure detectors for rapid calculation and activation of a response that reduces resulting vehicle oscillation, and the data from the Bosch IMU which dynamically reveals the bikes attitude on the two axes (lateral and vertical tilt).

Brembo brake system with Bosch Cornering ABS

The entire Multistrada 1200 family features a Brembo braking system with the Bosch 9.1ME ABS ECU, an integral part of the Ducati Safety Pack (DSP). Cornering ABS makes use of the Bosch IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) platform to optimise front and rear braking power even in critical situations with the bike at considerable lean angles.

Through interaction with the Riding Modes, the system provides compromise-free solutions whatever the situation or riding conditions.

Thanks to its ABS control processor the Multistrada makes use of an Electronic Combined Braking System that is optimised for the Urban and Touring Riding Modes but has a lower degree of interaction in Sport mode where combined braking is less desirable.

The combined braking system increases stability by using four pressure detectors to allocate braking power optimally between front and rear.

Designed to improve rear tyre control during hard braking, the rear-wheel lift detection is fully enabled in Urban and Touring Riding Modes yet disabled in Sport and Enduro modes. ABS can also be applied to the front wheel only, as is the case in Enduro Riding Mode, the aim being to allow rear wheel lock on the dirt. ABS can also be fully disabled from the instrument panel in any Riding Mode, and settings can be saved and recalled at the next Key-On.

The system integrates smoothly with the Ducati Riding Modes and has three available levels. Level 2 ensures, in Sport mode, equilibrium between front and rear without rear wheel lift detection but with the Cornering function on and calibrated for sports-style riding. Level 3 allows, in Touring and Urban modes, optimisation of the combined braking action with rear wheel lift detection on for maximum safety and performance and with Cornering functionality on and calibrated for maximum safety. Level 1 maximises off-road performance by disabling rear-wheel lift detection and allowing the rear wheel to lock, with ABS being applied only at the front.

The front braking system on the Multistrada 1200 features monobloc radially-mounted Brembo 4-piston callipers with 32 mm diameter pistons and 2 pads, a radial master cylinder with adjustable lever, and dual 320 mm discs. At the rear, there is a single 265 mm diameter disc gripped by a floating calliper, again from Brembo. These components ensure top braking performance, a standard Ducati feature. On the Multistrada 1200 S the braking system draws directly on solutions used by Ducati in Superbike competition: 330 mm discs at the front coupled with Brembo M50 monobloc radial 4-piston callipers with a 16 mm master cylinder.

Instrument panel and lighting

The dashboard consists of a large high-visibility LCD screen providing all primary and secondary information. On the Multistrada 1200 S the LCD is replaced by a full colour 5” TFT display. Both the LCD and TFT provide info on speed, rpm, selected gear, total mileage, trip1 and trip2, engine coolant temperature, fuel gauge and a clock. Other information shown includes the selected Riding Mode, miles remaining, current fuel consumption, average fuel consumption, average speed, air temperature, travelling time and an icy road surface warning.

At a standstill it is possible to gain access, via the left handlebar switchgear, to a settings menu which enables and adjusts various functions such as DTC and DWC personalisation and the 3-level Cornering ABS function. On the Multistrada 1200 S suspension can also be adjusted through the settings menu. It is also possible, either at a standstill or on the move, to select the Riding Mode (Sport, Touring, Urban or Enduro) and load settings to correspond with the current riding configuration: rider only, rider with luggage, rider with passenger or rider with passenger and luggage.

The Multistrada 1200 S features a full LED headlight with Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL) functionality, which activates in curves to give optimal illumination of the road surface. Once again, it is the Bosch IMU inertial platform that makes this new function possible.

Another option designed to enhance lighting efficiency consists of a pair of supplementary headlights: controlled via a dedicated key on the left switchgear, these provide excellent peripheral lighting. The Multistrada 1200 also feature hazard lights, activated simply by pressing a dedicated button.

Hands Free Ignition

The Multistrada 1200 can be started without inserting a mechanical key, if its electronic key is within a 2 metre radius of the bike. The system automatically reads the key’s code, even if it is never removed from the rider’s pocket. Pressing the “on” button powers-up the bike, activates the display, and allows the engine to be started. The electronic key also includes a mechanical “flip” key for seat and filler cap removal. Further, the Multistrada 1200 features an electrical steering lock actuator: when the bike is parked, the steering lock can be engaged with the push of a button, and is automatically released when the bike is next turned on.

The components used on the Multistrada 1200 offer state-of-the art technological content and performance: all components and production technologies have been designed to ensure maximum vehicle performance and compliance with the distinctive design choices. Key chassis set-up parameters, such as wheelbase, swingarm length and steering geometry (trail and offset), have been defined by identifying the best possible compromise between high speed stability and handling. Low vehicle weight and a generous steering lock make low-speed tight manoeuvring simple and easy: so doing a U-turn on city streets or narrow mountain roads presents no problem at all.

The chassis design features a frontal Trellis frame with large-diameter yet thin tubing and two lateral subframes closed off by a rear load bearing element made of fibreglass-reinforced engineering plastic for maximum torsional rigidity.. On the new Multistrada 1200 the frame has been stiffened further and the ground clearance has been raised by 20 mm to 180 mm, a big advantage when riding off-road.

From a mechanical viewpoint, the most important – and perhaps the most complex – component on the Multistrada 1200 is the single-sided swingarm. This single, die-casted part, with fabricated and welded sections, provides a strong, hollow and lightweight component that contributes considerably to the Multistrada’s sure-footed handling.

The Multistrada 1200 features a 48 mm upside-down fork, with a dedicated cast lower, fully adjustable for spring preload, compression, and rebound. The rear is controlled by a Sachs monoshock, also fully adjustable in compression and rebound and with spring preload adjustable by using a handy remote manual adjuster. The spring works progressively, therefore providing augmented riding comfort even when the bike is fully laden.

The Multistrada 1200 S comes with a Sachs 48 mm front fork (with tubes in the typical ceramic grey) and rear damper, which are both semi-active and controlled by the Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evolution system. In addition to allowing compression and rebound adjustment of the hydraulic damper and rear spring preload (automatic and integrated into the Riding Modes or personalised via the on-board computer), the semi-active system exerts continuous control to keep the bike perfectly balanced. Both suspension systems feature 170 mm travel (both front and rear), allowing for comfortable riding even with the bike loaded and, above all, safe handling on off-road routes. On the S comfort is enhanced further by the DSS Evolution which allows quick, user-friendly modification of the bike’s configuration to suit riding configuration and journey type: rider only, rider with luggage, rider with passenger and rider with passenger and luggage.

Tyres and wheels

In the first decade of the new millennium, Ducati launched the new Multistrada. Pirelli, one of Ducati’s most important partners, responded by developing the SCORPION™ Sync, the first sporty-on-the-road tyre to feature a knobby tread, produced in the 120/70-17 and 180/55-17 sizes. Some ten years later, Pirelli is still the leader – thanks to the introduction of SCORPION™ Trail dual compound 190/55-17” rear tyres – of a segment revolution that ushered in a new generation of street enduro bikes like the Ducati Multistrada 1200. The SCORPION™ Trail II, as standard on the Ducati Multistrada (190/55 R17 rear and 120/70 R17 front), is Pirelli’s latest enduro street tyre and the direct successor of the SCORPION™ Trail.

Pirelli was the first company to introduce the dual compound solution on certain sizes of rear enduro street tyre like the SCORPION™ Trail. Now, the Italian manufacturer is able to apply this technology on all rear tyres in the SCORPION™ Trail II range. Combining road and off-road performance to perfection. it has been designed to satisfy even the most demanding motorcyclists: its strong points include outstanding mileage, consistent performance throughout its lifecycle and first-rate running in the wet.

While the innovative SCORPION™ Trail II tread pattern is a derivative of the distinctive SCORPION™ off-road style, it also draws on Pirelli’s experience in developing the ANGEL™ GT, Pirelli’s best sport touring tyre that is also seen as the segment benchmark. Yet behind this aggressive-looking tread pattern typical of an off-road tyre, the SCORPION™ Trail II provides first-rate performance that merges the characteristics of both enduro and sport touring tyres.

The side slits on the new SCORPION™ Trail II are designed to channel away rainwater efficiently; water dispersion is also aided by the ‘dual trench’ central groove arrangement, which also ensures improved traction, greater solidity and more even wear.

Compared to its predecessor, this tyre gives greater mileage without compromising on cornering performance and, above all, performs excellently in the wet. SCORPION™ Trail II profiles derive directly from those used on the ANGEL™ GT, the winner of important comparative tests carried out by top international magazines. Thanks to a shorter yet wider contact patch, the profile reduces and evens out tread wear, ensuring greater mileage. Application of new profiles has also resulted in better handling, which remains consistent throughout the product lifetime.

The Multistrada 1200, 1200 S and 1200 S D-Air feature light alloy Y-spoke wheels. All versions are equipped with 3.50 x 17’’ front wheels and 6.00 x 17’’ rear wheels.

MULTISTRADA 1200 S D-AIR

Ducati, ever-attentive to new technology and safety, has also introduced a D-Air version of the Multistrada 1200 S which, in addition to the other as-standard features, provides an intelligent on-vehicle system that is wirelessly connected to airbag-equipped Ducati Apparel D-Air® clothing by Dainese. This solution, which brings together two major Italian brands, represents a big step forwards in two-wheel safety: the combined experience of Ducati and Dainese has led to the development of a passive safety system that, thanks to on-board sensors and electronics, constantly monitors the dynamic status of the vehicle so the airbag can be activated in the event of an accident. The Multistrada D-Air analyses the data and can open both rider and passenger in-jacket airbags in just 45 milliseconds, considerably reducing the risk of impact-related injuries. The Multistrada 1200 S D-Air is also certified by TÃœV SÃœD, the authoritative German body responsible for wearable airbag standards. Use of technology developed jointly with Dainese once again demonstrates Ducati’s constant commitment to safety, as already highlighted by the Ducati Safety Pack, provided as standard across the entire Multistrada 1200 range.

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S – www.Totalmotorcycle.com USA Specifications/Technical Details US MSRP Price: $ See dealer for pricing in USD

Type Ducati Testastretta DVT with Desmodromic Variable Timing, L-Twin cylinder, 4 valve per cylinder, Dual Spark, liquid cooled Displacement 1198.4 cc Bore x Stroke 106 x 67.9 mm Compression ratio 12.5:1 Power 117.7 kW (160 hp) @ 9,500 rpm Torque 136 Nm (100,3 lb-ft) @ 7,500 rpm Fuel injection Bosch electronic fuel injection system, elliptical throttle bodies with Ride-by-Wire, equivalent diameter 56 mm Exhaust Stainless steel muffler with catalytic converter and 2 lambda probes, aluminium tail pipes Emissions Euro 4 Gearbox 6 speed Ratio 1=37/15 2=30/17 3=27/20 4=24/22 5=23/24 6=22/25 Primary drive Straight cut gears; Ratio 1.84:1 Final drive Chain; Front sprocket 15; Rear sprocket 40 Clutch Light action, wet, multiplate clutch with hydraulic control. Self-servo action on drive, slipper action on over-run Frame Tubular steel Trellis frame Wheelbase 1529 mm (60.2 in) Rake 24° Trail 109 mm (4.3 in) Front suspension Sachs 48 mm fully adjustable usd forks. Electronic compression and rebound damping adjustment with Ducati Skyhook Suspension Evo (DSS) Front wheel travel 170 mm (6.7 in) Front wheel Y-shaped 3-spoke in light alloy 3.50″ x 17″ Front tyre Pirelli Scopion Trail II 120/70 R17 Rear Suspension Fully adjustable Sachs unit. Electronic compression and rebound damping adjustment. Electronic spring pre-load adjustment with Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evo. Aluminium single-sided swingarm Rear wheel travel 170 mm (6.7 in) Rear Wheel Y-shaped 3-spoke in light alloy 6.00″ x 17″ Rear tyre Pirelli Scorpion Trail II 190/55 R17 Front brake 2 x 330 mm semi-floating discs, radially mounted Brembo monobloc Evo M50 4-piston callipers, 2-pad, radial pump with cornering ABS as standard equipment Rear brake 265 mm disc, 2-piston floating calliper, with cornering ABS as standard equipment Fuel tank capacity 20 l – 5.3 gallon (US) *Dry weight 212 kg (467 lb) **Wet weight 235 kg (518 lb) Seat height Adjustable 825 – 845 mm (32,5 – 33,3 in) Instrumentation Color TFT display 5″ Ducati electronics Riding Modes, Power Modes, RbW, Ducati Safety Pack (cornering ABS + DTC), Ducati Skyhook Suspension Evo (DSS), Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC), Cruise Control, Full LED headlamp with Ducati Cornering Lights, Hands-Free, Backlit handlebar switches, Ducati Multimedia System (DMS), Full-colour TFT display, Anti-theft ready, Heated grips ready, Supplementary lights ready Warranty 2 years unlimited mileage Additional equipment(* Model weight related) • Touring Pack: heated grips, panniers and center stand• Sport Pack: road-legal exhaust (homologated only for EU) Ducati Performance by Termignoni and carbon fibre front mudguard, machined-from-billet aluminium brake and clutch reservoir caps• Urban Pack: top case, tank bag with lock and USB hub• Enduro Pack: supplementary lights and Ducati Performance components by Touratech: engine protection bars, radiator guard, oil sump guard, bigger kickstand base and off-road footpegs

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S – www.Totalmotorcycle.com Canadian Specifications/Technical Details Canada MSRP Price: $ See dealer for pricing in CDN

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S – www.Totalmotorcycle.com European Specifications/Technical Details Europe/UK MSRP Price: £ See dealer for pricing in (On The Road inc 20% Vat)

*Starting at MSRP is the manufactured suggested price and excludes delivery, setup, tax, title, license, and additional fees and expenses. Bikes may be shown with optional accessories. Final sale price determined by an authorized dealer. Specifications and MSRP are subject to change.

Manufacturer Specifications and appearance are subject to change without prior notice on Total Motorcycle ( TMW ).

  • Multistrada 1200S

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MCCRUISE INSTRUCTION SETS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON PRODUCT PAGES. THESE MANUALS ARE ONLY AVAILABLE IN ENGLISH.

Ducati Multistrada is the flagship for the new MC Cruise ELECTRIC SERVO

Written by Tony Guymer

Posted on May 28 2013

MotorCycle Cruise Controls is pleased to announce it will soon take deposits for  Ducati Multistrada  cruise control kits featuring the  new electric servo  - combined with all new software  on our existing computer. A prototpye kit has been 'in service' since January 2013 and all indications are that it performs brilliantly and is reliable.

multistrada 1200 cruise control

         Electric Servo (front) with new Cruise Module         Existing Cruise Module (rear) & new Cruise Module         

Our policy is to use the electric servo in all new model development where access to vacuum is difficult, the vacuum source is compromised on the vehicle or space is a problem for the existing vacuum actuator.  Where specific problems exist in current or older models, they will be progressively redeveloped as demand requires and need dictates.

The company is currently working on a kit for the late '90s Harley Davidson Road Kings as we can readily access a bike for development and testing.  These developments will flow into a range of new products  for Harley Davidson.  We expect to have a prototype kit working before June and a production unit available around mid June, 2013.  Deposits will be able to be lodged on kits for these bikes in early June on our web site.

All future Harley Davidson and 'cruiser'   cruise control development will feature our new cruise modules and electric servos.  These bikes all present specific problems relating to space and hiding cruise control components which demand the new equipment.

The new software available on all new bike kits sold now (and able to be upgraded on all existing kits with either new software or a replacement computer), provides coast function and speed alert features. A speed alert kit will be available in June providing the wiring, terminals and instructions to set up a speed alert using a piezo electric buzzer or LEDs - see below:

multistrada 1200 cruise control

13/137-145 Rooks Road Nunawading 3131 AUSTRALIA Email:  [email protected] Phone:  +61 3 9808 2804

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multistrada 1200 cruise control

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Cruise Control

  • QuickShifter
  • TuneBoy Software & Accessories
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TuneBoy Cruise Control (Only for supported models)

The TuneBoy Cruise Control adds extra program code to the ECU to provide electronic cruise control to your motorbike. This works just like the cruise control in a modern car; it will hold speed over varying terrain and disengage if the brakes are applied or the clutch pulled in.

The cruise control itself is very easy: 1.    Flash the TuneBoy map into ECU; 2.    Start the bike, and then hold the Start button down for 3 seconds. The bike will then “blip” the throttle giving you an audible indicator that the cruise is active; 3.    When you get to desired speed on your bike you simply hold start button down again to set the cruise speed. If you touch the brakes or clutch the cruise will turn off.

The nudge buttons are not required to use the cruise control – they are an optional extra.

The cruise control still allows you to change gear if you have a quick-shifter. Normal gear changes with the clutch will disengage the cruise control but a shift with the quick-shifter will change gear without effecting the cruise control. How awesome is that!!

We offer the cruise control for the following models-

Ducati Panigale  V-Twin(899, 959, 1199 and 1299 models.) Diavel (All models except the new X-Diavel) Multistrada 1200* (2010 to 2014 models with the Mitsubishi ECU) *N.B. We do not support the Bosch ECU on the variable cam timing motor (DVT models)

Yamaha R6 (2006 to 2015) R1 (2009 to 2015) V-Max (2009 to 2015) MT09/FZ09 (All models)

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multistrada 1200 cruise control

Main Contents

Favorite vendors, great multistrada 1200 links, photos for my ducati.ms uploads, multistrada 1200 / ducati ... videos, known issues, a brief timeline of warranty and other issues, the most exciting enhancement since ... well .... forever, electronic cruise control., ready made nudge buttons available, tuneboy software updates, list of updates, jan16th 2014 updates, wed 11th feb (multitrim map option), description, installation, where did i go wrong , asking for help., simple summary of cc operation, what are these nudge buttons you speak of , what's the middle button do , why choose the tuneboy , home brew nudge buttons, nov 5th 2012, mounting a 3mm led inside the trailtech is not too difficult, but poses great risk of breaking your switch housing while trying to open it ., nov 8th 2012 tune edit kit arives , tuneboy quickshifter mounted on 2010 multistrada 1200s touring, a strain gauge based quick shifter that offers these features :, tuning with tuneboy - notes, android access to your multistrada 1200 and tuneboy, multitool lite, i have a windows version similar to multitool lite on the way., multitool decaf, farkle list.

Ducati MULTISTRADA 1200S ABS 2015 Workshop Manual

  • Ducati Manuals
  • MULTISTRADA 1200S ABS 2015
  • Workshop manual

Ducati MULTISTRADA 1200S ABS 2015 Workshop Manual

  • page of 1252 Go / 1252

Table of Contents

  • General Maintenance Instructions
  • Ignition System
  • Rear Suspension
  • Front Mudguard
  • Liquid Cooling
  • Rear Mudguard
  • Front Wheel
  • Vehicle Pre-Delivery
  • Change Coolant
  • Checking Valve Clearance
  • Changing the Engine Oil
  • U.s.a. Version
  • Front Mudguard Half Kit
  • Routing of Wiring on Frame
  • Technological Dictionary
  • Rectifier-Regulator
  • Removing the Generator
  • Right-Hand Switch
  • Left-Hand Switch
  • Electric Diagram
  • Clutch Switch
  • Removal Procedure
  • Solenoid Valves
  • Knock Sensor
  • Oxygen Sensors
  • Key Duplication
  • Immobilizer System
  • Turn Indicators
  • Display Backlighting Setting
  • Clock Setting
  • Month Setting
  • Setting Menu
  • Error Warnings
  • OIL SERVICE or SERVICE DATE or DESMO SERVICE Indication
  • Service Indication (SERVICE)
  • Cruise Control
  • Auxiliary Functions
  • Average Speed
  • Instantaneous Fuel Consumption
  • Odometer (TOT)
  • Engine Coolant Temperature
  • High Performance
  • Motorcycle Speed
  • Trip Master
  • Parameter Setting/Displaying
  • Wheel Bearings
  • Maintenance Operations
  • Operating Principle
  • Heated Handgrips
  • Position Description
  • Refitting the Throttle Body
  • Refitting the Airbox
  • Removing the Air Filter
  • Removing the Throttle Body
  • Refitting the Silencer
  • Reference Values
  • Removing Outer Components
  • Main Bearings
  • Checking the Crankshaft

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  • 1 General Maintenance Instructions
  • 2 Rear Suspension
  • 3 Front Wheel
  • 4 Checking Valve Clearance
  • 5 Maintenance Operations
  • Download this manual

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Summary of Contents for Ducati MULTISTRADA 1200S ABS 2015

  • Page 1 2015 DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200S ABS Workshop Manual MTS(E4).01 - General Symbols - Abbreviations - References Product specifications Dangerous products - warnings General maintenance instructions General safety rules MTS(E4).02 - Model-specific information Model identification Identification data MTS(E4).03 - Technical data Technical specifications...
  • Page 2 Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit Changing the clutch fluid Adjusting the rear shock absorber Front fork adjustment Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal Adjusting the front brake control lever Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads Adjusting the chain tension Adjusting the steering head bearing play...
  • Page 3 Electronic components: checks Accelerometers Bluetooth Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) Knock Sensor Accelerator Position System (APS) Lambda sensors Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL) Local Interconnect Network (LIN) VIN line Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) CAN line Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC) Ducati Traction Control (DTC)
  • Page 4 Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV) Black Box System (BBS) Map sensor Engine control unit (ECU) Instrumentation: Dashboard Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE Key duplication Replacing the battery in the active key Keys Immobilizer system Light control Bluetooth device setting Setting the units of measurement Backlighting setting Clock setting...
  • Page 5 Main functions Parameter setting/displaying Function buttons Instrument panel MTS(E4).07 - Chassis Front wheel Refitting the front wheel Overhauling the front wheel Removing the front wheel Rear wheel Refitting the rear wheel Overhauling the rear wheel Removing the rear wheel Front brake control Refitting the front brake system Refitting the brake discs Overhauling the front brake components...
  • Page 6 Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly Handlebar assembly: Hands free Refitting the Hands Free Removing Hands Free Gear selector control Refitting the gear change control Disassembling the gear change control Removing the gear change control Fork - steering head: Front fork Refitting the front fork Overhauling the front fork Removing the front fork...
  • Page 7 MTS(E4).08 - Fuel/Exhaust system Fuel tank Refitting the fuel tank Refitting the fuel tank flange Removing the fuel tank flange Refitting the tank filler plug Removing the tank filler plug Removing the fuel tank Airbox ?V throttle body Refitting the airbox and throttle body Removing the airbox and throttle body Air intake Refitting the secondary air system...
  • Page 8 Checking and adjusting the valve clearance Cylinder head assembly: Timing system Refitting the timing outer covers Refitting the timing belts Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys Refitting the tensioner pins Refitting the timing layshaft pulley Removing the timing layshaft pulleys Removing the tensioner pins Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt...
  • Page 9 Refitting the generator cover Reassembling the generator cover Disassembling the generator cover Removing the generator cover Crankcase: Outer components Refitting the starter motor Removing the starter motor Removing the starter motor idler gear Refitting the timing gears Removing the timing gears Refitting the external components Removing outer components Crankcase: Casings...
  • Page 10 Symbols - Abbreviations - References To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum care is required, as well as practical advice or information. Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the text.
  • Page 11 GREASE Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. SHELL Retinax Temperature range: -10 to 110 °C. GREASE Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties. SHELL Retinax GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05 GREASE Grease OPTIMOL - PASTE WHITE T GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07...
  • Page 12 LOCK Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401 LOCK Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel DUCATI sealing compound. Three bond 1215 - Sealing compound Exhaust pipe sealing paste. Self-sealing paste hardens when heated and resists Holts Firegum temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.
  • Page 13 Within every Riding Mode, the rider can customise any settings. DSS (Ducati SkyHook System) Multistrada 1200 is equipped with the brand new suspension control system called DSS (Ducati Skyhook System): DSS is a dynamic suspension damping control system. By selecting a certain Riding Mode, the rider can establish the default suspension behaviour, suspension response and hence the motorcycle response.
  • Page 14 Ducati Cruise Control Multistrada 1200 features a system for maintaining the cruise speed, the Ducati Cruise Control. System can be enabled with engaged gear equal to or higher than the second gear and vehicle speed ranging between 50 Km/h and 200 Km/h.

Page 15: General Maintenance Instructions

  • Page 16 General safety rules Carbon monoxide When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the working area is well-ventilated. Never run the engine indoors. Warning Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even death if inhaled.
  • Page 17 The cooling fan operates automatically: keep hands well clear and make sure your clothing does not snag on the fan. Battery Warning The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the battery. When charging the battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
  • Page 18 Identification data Each Ducati motorcycle is identified by two numbers, one for the frame and one for the engine. Note Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts. DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME Example: ZDM 12 BWW? # B ????? Following is the table with the frame part numbers.
  • Page 19 Examples: 2BW # ?????? Following are the tables with the frame part numbers. VERSION Engine version ?????? Engine type Model Year: F for 2015 models Progressive production no.
  • Page 20 Lights/Instrument panel Reference Technical specifications Headlight low beam lamp type high beam lamp type 2xH11 (12V-55W) Parking light Lamp type Tail and stop light Lamp type LED (13.5 V- 4.2 W/1.5 W) Front turn indicators Lamp type LED (9.8 V - 2.2 W) Rear turn indicators Lamp type RY10W amber (halogen) (12V-10W)
  • Page 21 Injection system Make Type Control unit BOSCH ME7921...
  • Page 22 Fuel system Important Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and motorcycle components. Warning The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with ethanol content over 10% is forbidden.

Page 23: Ignition System

  • Page 24 Charging system/generator Reference Technical specifications Battery Voltage 12 V Charge 10 Ah Type Sealed-type, maintenance-free Generator Denso Hi-Frequency Capacity 12 V - 500 W 1500 rpm Active voltage 27.5 V Minimum voltage 25.2 V Maximum voltage 33 V 2500 rpm Active voltage 45 V Minimum voltage...
  • Page 25 Hydraulic brakes Reference Standard value Service limit FRONT Brake disc Type Semi-floating drilled dual disc Braking surface material Steel Disc diameter 330 mm Brake calliper Make Brembo Type Calliper cylinder diameter Pad friction material TT2182 Master cylinder Type PR 16/19 Master cylinder diameter 16 mm REAR...
  • Page 26 Rear suspension Reference Technical specifications Type SACHS: Progressive with electronically adjustable monoshock. Shock absorber Stroke 59.5 mm Wheel travel 170 mm...
  • Page 27 Rear wheel Reference Standard value Service limit Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (rider only) 2.9 bar (with pillion rider and/or bags) Swinging arm shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm...
  • Page 28 Front suspension Reference Technical specifications Type SACHS: upside-down fork completely adjustable in rebound and compression, electronic control. Travel on leg axis 170 mm Fork S Version 252 ± 5 cc (active fork leg) 642 ± 5 cc (passive fork leg)
  • Page 29 Front wheel Reference Standard value Service limit Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (rider only) 2.5 bar (with pillion rider and/or bags) Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm...
  • Page 30 Cooling system Reference Technical specifications Type Liquid-cooling with two closed-circuit radiators with twin bent radiator, twin fan and mixing thermostat. Coolant 2.5 litres capacity Thermostat Starts opening at 65 °C ±2 °C Electric fan enabling 103 °C Electric fan disabling 102 °C...
  • Page 31 Gearbox Reference Standard value Service limit Gearbox shafts End float 0.05÷0.20 mm Selector drum End float 0.10÷0.40 mm Gear selector fork Fork slider thickness 3.90÷4.00 mm Fork–to-gear clearance 0.070÷0.285 mm 0.4 mm...
  • Page 32 Cylinder/piston Reference Standard value Service limit Cylinder nominal diameter 106 mm Max. oval 0.010 Max. taper 0.015 Diameter 106.000 mm ÷ 106.010 Section A 106.010 mm ÷ 106.020 Section B Section C 106.020 mm ÷ 106.030 Piston-to-bore clearance 0.065 ÷ 0.085 mm Piston Nominal diameter 106 mm...
  • Page 33 Crankshaft Reference Standard value Service limit Crankshaft Oval 0.005 mm Taper 0.005 mm Main journals alignment 0.01 mm on diameter...
  • Page 34 Timing system/valves Reference With 1 mm valve clearance With 5 mm valve clearance Timing diagram Intake Opening - 22° ± 3° Opening - 59° ± 3° B.T.D.C. B.T.D.C. Closing 84° ± 3° A.T.D.C. Closing 44° ± 3° A.T.D.C. Exhaust Opening - 80° ± 3° Opening - 40°...
  • Page 35 Transmission Reference Technical specifications Clutch Wet type with multiple plates Clutch Hydraulic control Gearbox 6 speed Primary drive 33/61 Drive ratio 1.84 Final drive 15/40 Gearbox type With constant mesh spur gears, operated by a lever on the left side of the motorcycle Transmission Gear ratios 15/37 17/30...
  • Page 36 Colours Ducati Anniversary Red — Primer Acriflex White L0040652 (Lechler) Varnish Acriplast Red Stoner SF LMC06017 (Lechler) Frame, Racing Black Subframe, Mercury Gray Rims, Glossy Black Iceberg White — Primer, Dual Primer White DS20052 (Lechler) Clear coat Tixo Klarlack 96.230 (Lechler)
  • Page 37 General Reference Technical specifications Motorcycle Total length 2200 mm dimensions Total width 980 mm Max. width 1000 mm Total height from 1350 mm (Plexiglas all down) to 1545 mm (Plexiglas all up) Seat height 825 - 845 mm Minimum 175 mm ground clearance Front...
  • Page 38 Hydraulic, 2 callipers with ABS as a standard Rear brake Hydraulic, 1 calliper with ABS as a standard Engine Type Ducati Testastretta with DTV system, twin cylinder "L" type, 4 valves per cylinder. Bore 106 mm Stroke 67.9 mm Displacement 1198.4 cu.cm Compression 12.5±0.5:1...
  • Page 39 Dimensions...
  • Page 40 5 cu. least). dm(litres) Oil sump and Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it 4.10 filter is possible to use a motorcycle engine oil having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
  • Page 41 Frame tightening torque values Part Thread (mm) Nm ±10% Notes Tolerance ACCESSORIES AND OUTFIT Footpeg — pannier low. bracket retainer M6x1 GREASE B Heat guard to pannier retainer M6x1 D-Air accelerometer bracket retainer M5x0.8 D-Air accelerometer bracket to fork bottom end retainer M5x0.8 STAND Stand sensor retaining screw M6x1...
  • Page 42 Screw securing handlebar stud bolt on head M10x1.25 LOCK 2 Bearing preload ring nut fastener M35x1 GREASE B - Sequence: 1- Steering stop adjuster lock nut fastener M8x1.25 Bottom yoke terminal screws M8x1.25 GREASE B - Sequence: 1- Handlebar U-bolt retaining screw M8x1.25 GREASE B - Sequence: 1- 2-3-4-3...
  • Page 43 Seat lock to glove compartment retaining nut M22x1.5 Retainer securing battery cables and starter motor to M6x1 starter contactor Central vertical coil to bracket fastener M6x1 Central vertical coil to RH frame retainer M5x0.8 Horizontal coils to bracket fastener M6x1 Central horizontal coils to RH frame retainer M5x0.8 LH vertical coil to support bracket fastener...

Page 44: Rear Suspension

Page 45: front mudguard, page 46: front wheel.

  • Page 47 Motor support to subframe plate retainer M5x0.8 Retainer securing valve motor to support Bowden cable adjuster to exhaust retaining nut M6x1 Nut securing exhaust to vertical head M6x1 Nut securing exhaust to horizontal head M6x1 Heat guard nut tightening M6x1 Plastic heat guard to glove compartment retainer M5x0.8 Plastic heat guard to glove compartment retainer...

Page 48: Oil Cooler

  • Page 49 RH and LH cowling structure retainer M5x0.8 Right and left cowling to radiator bracket fasteners M5x0.8 Right and left cowling bracket to radiator fastener M6x1 Screw securing thermoformed windscreen to support M5x0.8 Windscreen support block retainer AF 4.5 Sump guard RH bracket to crankcase fastener M6x1 Sump guard LH bracket to crankcase fastener M6x1...
  • Page 50 Engine tightening torque values Thread Thread Description Torque (Nm) Notes length pitch Head VVT blanket plug M22x1 Fixed and mobile tensioner pin M20x1 LOCK 2 or TB1324 OCV oil filter plug M16x1 22.5 25 Motor Oil Temperature sensor on water LOCK 4 - Hold insert while M12x1.5 20 union...
  • Page 51 Pick-up sensors to head cover M6x1 retaining screw Screw securing water unions to Pre-applied threadlocker on new M5x1 head part - LOCK 2 for reuse MAP sensor special screw M6x1 Vertical head air breather screw M6x1 LOCK 2 with washer Union for canister M6x1 Covers...
  • Page 52 Clutch casing inner oil channel M10x1.5 15 LOCK 5 grub screw Roller bearing bush hole blanking M10x1.5 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324 tapered plug Cylinder/head stud bolt M10x1.5 30 LOCK 2 or TB1324 Casing jointing screw in cylinder M10x1.5 area Preload torque GREASE B on thread Tightening torque...
  • Page 53 Starter motor rear retaining screw M6x1 part - LOCK2 for reuse Idle gear shaft retaining screw M6x1 LOCK 2 or TB1324 Connecting rods Flywheel retaining nut M28x1.5 Tightening to torque 150 Nm Loosen the nut LOCK 5 Tightening to torque 330 Nm Primary sprocket retaining ring M24x1...
  • Page 54 Gearbox and clutch FCC clutch drum nut M25x1.5 190 180 200 GREASE B FCC wet clutch spring screw M6x1 Ignition Spark plug M10x1 Pre-applied threadlocker on new Rotor to flywheel retaining screw M5x0.8 part - LOCK2 for reuse Oil pump Oil pump retaining screw M8x1.25 26 Oil pump assembling screw...
  • Page 55 Diagnosis special tools PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE 28620441A "PC HASP DDS2.0" wrench 979000252 DDS 2 (Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0) 979000253 Belt tensioning 979000254 Diagnosis and power supply cable 979000255 Diagnosis and power supply cable (CAN) 979000256 Power supply cable from DDS battery...
  • Page 56 Frame special tools PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE 80007.0139 Front wheel shaft wrench 88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube plug 88713.1062 Steering tube bearing installation tool 88713.1074 Swingarm shaft removal tool 88713.1515 Frame/engine support 88713.2409 Ball bearing installation tool 88713.2951 Rear wheel balancing tool...
  • Page 57 88713.3211 Eccentric hub adjusting wrench 88713.3396 Engine repair work bench 88713.3501 Tank level sensor plug tightening wrench 88713.3526 Frame ring nut wrench...
  • Page 58 Engine special tools PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE 88713.0869 Water pump front seal installation tool 88713.0870 Water pump front seal counter-washer installation tool 88713.1010 Exhaust gas suction fitting 88713.1749 Puller for driving pulley and cover 88713.1805 Driving pulley tightening tool 88713.1821 Tensioner pin wrench 88713.1832 Engine repair work bench...
  • Page 59 88713.1920 Tool to install O-rings on engine block stud bolts 88713.1994 Rocker arm shaft puller 88713.2011 Tool to block crankshaft at Top Dead Centre (TDC) 88713.2103 Bearing surface for head installation 88713.2442 Tool to install seal ring on valve guide 88713.2834 Snap ring installation tool 88713.2861...
  • Page 60 88713.2877 Spark plug wrench 88713.2906 Oil cartridge wrench 88713.3219 Reaction tool for pulley tightening 88713.3334 Selector fork positioning plate 88713.3352 Clutch plate positioning tool 88713.3367 Flywheel wrench...
  • Page 61 88713.3406 Primary sprocket ring nut wrench 88713.3407 Bushing (gear sensor) 88713.3408 "F clutch housing reaction tool 88713.3417 Reaction wrench 88713.3497 Wrench to tension the belt mobile tensioner 88713.3521 Seal ring installation tool 88765.1000 88765.1005 Fork feeler gauges 88765.1006 88765.1298 Valve lower shim check spacer...
  • Page 62 88765.1623 Timing pulley positioning tool 88765.1657 Degree wheel holder tool 88713.4964 Cylinder head nut tightening tool 88713.4965 Camshaft O-ring installation tool 88713.4966 Pressure control nozzles 88713.4967 Lever to release the RH and LH switch block...
  • Page 63 88713.5009 TDC control tool 8876.1737 Camshaft locking tool...

Page 64: Vehicle Pre-Delivery

  • Page 65 - Showing the passenger seat opening location, removal of seats and adjustment of rider seat height - Showing the location of the tool compartment with the relevant accessories, tyre repair kit and e pannier nipple kit (if not installed as accessories) - Showing the power sockets (front and rear) and USB socket (compartment under the seat) - Check of the presence and operation of the battery charge and maintainer socket - Show the correct procedure of assembly/disassembly of side panniers and top-case, their opening and closing (if...
  • Page 66 Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer List of operations and type of intervention km. x1000 [set mileage (km/mi) or time interval*] mi. x1,000 Months Check engine oil level • Check brake and clutch fluid level •...
  • Page 67 Operations to be carried out by the dealer Warning This scheduled maintenance chart is designed for a road use of the Multistrada. If it is used on the track, even if not during sport competitions, all parts of the motorcycle are more stressed so the routine maintenance operations must be carried out more frequently than indicated.
  • Page 68 Check rubbing points, clearance, freedom of movement and positioning of hoses and • • • • • 12 electric wiring in view Lubricate the levers at the handlebar and pedal controls • • • • 12 Check coolant level • •...
  • Page 69 Filling the clutch hydraulic circuit Warning Clutch fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Fill the reservoir with specified fluid taken from an intact container. Important During the operation, fluid level must remain at a suitable level at all times.
  • Page 70 Note Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool. Pump with the bleeding tool and open the bleed valve (3) making sure that the level does not fall below the MIN mark. Repeat the last operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles. If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) as outlined in the draining procedure.
  • Page 72 Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit Warning Clutch fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Remove the cap to expose the bleed valve (3). Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (3). Note Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
  • Page 73 Unscrew the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn. Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been drained. To help fully drain the circuit, it is recommended to remove the clutch slave cylinder. Undo the screws (4) and slide out the clutch slave cylinder (5).
  • Page 74 Push the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap. Reassemble as described in chapter "Refitting clutch slave cylinder".
  • Page 75 Changing the clutch fluid Warning Clutch fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the clutch fluid reservoir (2). Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
  • Page 76 Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor. Open the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to flow out. Warning During the filling operation, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit. Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (3) until it changes colour.
  • Page 77 Adjusting the rear shock absorber The rear shock absorber used on this motorcycle has rebound (return), compression and spring preload adjustment. When carrying a passenger and luggage, set the rear shock absorber spring to proper preload to improve motorcycle handling and keep safe clearance from the ground. You may find that rebound damping needs adjusting as well.
  • Page 78 Front fork adjustment The front fork used on this motorcycle has rebound, compression and spring preload adjustment. Put the motorcycle on the side stand and make sure it is stable. Fork is adjusted by means of electric impulses output by the instrument panel to adjusters inside the legs.
  • Page 79 Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footpeg can be adjusted to suit the preferred riding position. To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows: hold the linkage (1) and slacken the lock nuts (2) and (3).
  • Page 80 If not, modify the length of the cylinder push-rod in the following mode. Slacken off the check nut (7) on the cylinder pushrod. Screw the rod into the fork (8) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play. Tighten the check nut (7) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±10%, and check play again.
  • Page 81 Adjusting the front brake control lever and clutch lever Lever (1) disengages the clutch. It features a dial adjuster (2) for lever distance from the twistgrip on handlebar. The lever distance can be adjusted through 10 clicks of the dial (2). Turn clockwise to increase lever distance. Turn the adjuster counter clockwise to decrease lever distance.
  • Page 82 Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Check through the slot between the two calliper halves, and make sure that at least 1 mm of the friction material on pads is visible. Important Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
  • Page 83 Remove the brake pads (3) by pushing the calliper pistons fully inside their seats.
  • Page 84 Fit the new pads. Insert pin (2) and fix it by means of the safety split pin (1).
  • Page 85 Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid pressure. Check that the fluid level inside reservoir (4) is between the MIN and MAX marks. If this is not the case, unscrew the plug (5) of reservoir cover (4) and top up.
  • Page 86 Warning Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment. Smaltimento Do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 12 (Brake pads, other than those mentioned under item 16 01 11).
  • Page 87 Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Important On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the Customer that the front brake must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
  • Page 88 Remove the front calliper. Remove the front pads (1). Note Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance. Insert the calliper of the front disk and use the indicated product to lubricate the two screws (2). Tighten the two screws (2) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
  • Page 89 Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid pressure. Check that the level in the master cylinder tank is not below the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as follows. Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is levelled.
  • Page 90 Note It should be noted that the above-mentioned CER code is a general and non-binding provision, provided based on product original composition and intended use. The user is thus responsible for selecting the CER code most suitable to the concerned product, based on product real use and taking into account any alterations and/or contaminations of the product, as well as any amendments to the prevailing standard on waste disposal.
  • Page 91 Adjusting the chain tension Move the bike slowly so as to find the position where chain upper section is more tensioned. Set the motorcycle on the side stand. Measure chain tension at the centre of the lower section, with the motorcycle on the side stand: lower the chain by pressing down on it only with your finger, release it and measure the distance between the centre of the chain pins and the aluminium section of the swingarm.
  • Page 92 Important An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to early wear of the transmission components. If the screws (1) are removed, lubricate with specified grease underside and thread, then tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 35 Nm ± 5% proceeding with sequence 1-2-1. Warning Correct tightening of swinging arm screws (1) is critical to rider and passenger safety.
  • Page 93 Refit the rear splash guard (Refitting the splash guard).
  • Page 94 Adjusting the steering head bearing play Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head bearings requires adjustment. Proceed as follows: Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head. Slacken the clamp screws (2) securing the steering head to both fork legs.
  • Page 96 Changing the fluid in the rear brake system Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Remove the rear brake calliper by loosening the screws (1). Undo the screws (2) and remove the hose cover (3). Release hose (4). Bring the rear calliper in the position shown in the figure.
  • Page 97 Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the rear calliper bleed valve (5) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor. Unscrew the cover (6) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (7).
  • Page 98 Fill the reservoir (7) with new oil up to the MAX mark. Refit the membrane (without the plug) on the reservoir to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following operations. Operate the brake pedal to pressurise the circuit. Keep pedal pushed down.
  • Page 99 Loosen bleed valve (5) by 1/4 of a turn so as to drain all fluid and push fully until pedal stops. Tighten the bleed valve (5). Warning After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
  • Page 100 Warning Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations. Smaltimento Do not dispose of the exhausted fluid into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains, water courses or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards.
  • Page 101 Changing the fluid in the front brake system Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Remove the cover (1) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by undoing the screws (3).
  • Page 102 Move the brake calliper pistons back: to do so, loosen screws (4) that retain the callipers on the fork bottom ends. Take calliper pads apart and during this operation be careful with the fluid level, which must always be sucked out each time it flows back in the reservoir.
  • Page 103 Once all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and all the fluid in the reservoir has been sucked out, connect a transparent tube to the RH calliper bleed valve (5) and set the other end in a container placed on the floor.
  • Page 104 Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp until clear brake fluid (new) flows out. Tighten screw (5) of the RH calliper bleed valve to a torque of 12 Nm ± 10%. Use a piece of paper towel and clean the hole of bleeder cap to remove any residues of fluid and then refit the rubber cap.
  • Page 105 Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely. In particular, to completely eliminate any air possibly trapped at the highest point of the front brake master cylinder, perform the same procedure on the bleed valve (6). Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed, repeatedly pull the lever until a pressure is detected in the brake system.
  • Page 106 in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 13 02 05* (Mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear and lubricating oils waste). Note It should be noted that the above-mentioned CER code is a general and non-binding provision, provided based on product original composition and intended use.

Page 107: Change Coolant

  • Page 108 Fill the circuit with new coolant through the water radiator plug. Remove the clamp from the expansion reservoir/radiator pipe. Wait several minutes for the coolant to fill all the internal passages. Start the engine and wait for the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for about 10 minutes. Stop the engine and allow it to cool down so that all the air is expelled from the circuit.
  • Page 109 Refit the LH and RH panel (Refitting the panel).
  • Page 110 Check the coolant level Check the coolant level contained in the expansion reservoir, on the right-hand side of the vehicle at the intervals specified in the "Scheduled maintenance chart". The correct level must be between the MAX and MIN marks on the reservoir. If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
  • Page 111 Changing and cleaning the air filters Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the wiring cover (1) by loosening the two retaining screws (2). Release the wiring from the airbox. Loosen the four retaining screws (3) and remove cover (4). Remove the filter (5).
  • Page 112 The filter can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or replaced, if necessary. Important A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get into the engine and cause damage.
  • Page 113 Position cover (4) and tighten the four retaining screws (3) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Position the main wiring on the airbox. Position wiring cover (1) and tighten the two retaining screws (2) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 114 Important If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently. Remove the external timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers). Loosen the screws (6) and remove the filter (7). Check the air filter (7) in the horizontal timing belt cover (8).
  • Page 115 Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
  • Page 116 Change spark plugs Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode: an even, light brown colour indicates the engine is in good condition and running at the right temperature. Inspect the centre electrode for wear and check spark plug gap, which should be: 0.8 ÷ 0.1 mm. Important Check the gap between the central and side electrodes.
  • Page 118 Warning Do not dispose of waste components into the environment. Smaltimento Do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 16 01 22 (components not otherwise specified).
  • Page 119 Change timing belts Remove the external belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers). Remove the cylinder head covers (Removing the head covers). Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt). Working on the generator cover (1) loosen the screws (2) and remove cover (3). For better clarity, some of the following figures show the engine removed from the frame.
  • Page 120 When the timing is correct, fit tool (B) no. 88713.2011 to block the crankshaft. On the vertical head install tool (C) part no. 88765.1737. Check the variators alignment, i.e. they must be flush with the "head flat surface".
  • Page 121 Fit the belt (7) as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
  • Page 122 If previously removed, fit the chain tensioner (8), washer (9) and tighten it by means of nut (10). Do not tighten to torque.
  • Page 123 Remove tool (C) part no. 88765.1737 and fit it on the horizontal head.
  • Page 124 Check on the variators (11) that the references are aligned with the "head flat surface". Fit the belt (12) in the horizontal head as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
  • Page 125 If previously removed, fit the chain tensioner (13), washer (14) and tighten it by means of nut (15). Do not tighten to torque.
  • Page 126 Remove the camshaft locking tool. Check the horizontal head belt tension in the indicated point (D). Tension the belt according to the values indicated in the table. Reference Assembly Value Assembly Value (new belt) (used belt) Cold belt tension adjustment DDS 2 90 ±...
  • Page 127 Rotate the crankshaft by 270° in its rotation sense so as to bring the vertical cylinder piston to the stroke TDC. Check the vertical cylinder belt tension in the indicated point (E). Tension the belt according to the values indicated in the table. Reference Assembly Value Assembly Value...
  • Page 128 Remove all the previously installed tools. Refit the cylinder head covers (Refitting the camshafts). Refit the external timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).

Page 129: Checking Valve Clearance

  • Page 130 The value must be within the prescribed ones. VALVES CLOSING CLEARANCE (mm) INTAKE 0.05 ÷ 0.10 EXHAUST 0.05 ÷ 0.10 If not, remove the closing shim (2), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
  • Page 131 camshaft lobe (B).
  • Page 132 The value must be within the prescribed ones. VALVES CLOSING CLEARANCE (mm) INTAKE 0.13 ÷ 0.18 EXHAUST 0.13 ÷ 0.18 If not, remove the opening shim (1), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.

Page 133: Changing The Engine Oil

  • Page 134 Once the oil sump is completely empty, proceed as follows: Tighten the drain plug (1) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm). OIL CARTRIDGE FILTER Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (2) using service tool part no. 88713.2906. Important Dispose of the used filter, do not re-use it.
  • Page 135 Note As an alternative, it is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil before fitting it: this enables the recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up. Screw it into seat and tighten it to 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm). OIL MESH FILTER Every two oil changes, clean the oil intake mesh filter.
  • Page 136 Remove the filtering element (5) and check the O-rings (6) and (7), and replace them if necessary. Clean the filter with fuel and compressed air. Take care not to damage the mesh.
  • Page 137 Position O-ring (7) on the crankcase and O-ring (6) on the mesh filter (5).
  • Page 138 Refit the mesh filter (5).
  • Page 139 Apply a bead of sealing compound to cover (7) as shown in the figure.
  • Page 140 MAX level in the sight glass (9). Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle engine oil having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
  • Page 141 Refit the complete belly pan (Refitting the belly pan).
  • Page 142 Remove the filler plug (2) and top up with the recommended oil. Ducati recommends you use Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil. As an alternative it is possible to use a motorcycle engine oil having the same degree SAE 15W-50 and meeting the following specifications JASO: MA2 and API: SM.
  • Page 143 Refitting the headlight fairing ASSEMBLING THE HEADLIGHT FAIRING Apply specified threadlocker on rod (1) and start it on the windscreen support (2). Tighten rod (1) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Fit springs in stud-bolts (A). Fit block (3) on the windscreen support (2) by engaging: - tabs (B) of the windscreen support block (3) in seats (C) of support (2);...
  • Page 144 Fit clips (4) in the indicated areas of the central panel (5). Force ball joint (6) into its seat.
  • Page 145 Fit washers (7) on stud-bolts (E) of the windscreen support (3). Note The washer sharp edge must be facing the windscreen support block. Couple the windscreen support assembly (8) with the central panel (5) by inserting rod (1) in ball joint (6).
  • Page 146 Apply the indicated threadlocker on the two screws (9). Fit the windscreen support assembly (8) to the central panel (5) tightening screws (9) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Fit washers (10) onto two screws (11). Tighten the two screws (11) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 147 Fit two rubber plugs (12) in the indicated holes. Insert plugs (13) in recesses (14).
  • Page 148 Completely screw silent blocks (15) on instrument panel (16). Fit toothed washers (17) on silent block (15) threaded pins. Fit cover (16) on the windscreen support assembly / central panel (18) by tightening nuts (19) to a torque of 3 Nm ±...
  • Page 149 FITTING THE HEADLIGHT FAIRING Position headlight fairing (4) on the front frame. Start screws (3) and tighten them to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 150 Connect connector (1) to instrument panel (2). Refit the light assembly (Refitting the light assembly). Refit the panel (Refitting the panel).
  • Page 151 Removing the headlight fairing Remove the panel (Removing the panel). Remove the light assembly (Removing the light assembly). Disconnect connector (1) of instrument panel (2). Working on both sides of the headlight fairing, loosen screws (3). Remove headlight fairing (4).
  • Page 153 Refitting the panel If previously removed, refit Plexiglas (9) by starting three screws (8). Tighten screws (8) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Connect power socket (7). Fit the panel so as to engage retainer (3) in hook (4) on the headlight. Engage pins (6) in seats (5).
  • Page 154 Fix the headlight fairing to the headlight by means of two screws (2). Tighten them to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 155 Connect the immobilizer antenna by means of connector (1).
  • Page 157 Removing the panel Remove the tank cover (Removing the tank cover). Disconnect connector (1) from the immobilizer antenna. Remove the retaining screws (2).
  • Page 158 Remove the panel by pulling the top part outwards and the tip downwards at the same time, as shown in the picture. In this way, retainer (3) will be released from hook (4) and pins (6) from seats (5).
  • Page 159 Disconnect the power socket (7) and remove the panel.
  • Page 160 If necessary, remove the Plexiglas as indicated below: remove Plexiglas (9) by loosening the three screws (8).
  • Page 161 Refitting the tank fairings Check that the two vibration damping pads (8) and the four clips (9) are present on the tank cover (7). Fit gasket (10) on cover (7) so that ridge (A) engages in recess (B).
  • Page 162 Apply the indicated lubricant on the gasket surface (10) in contact with the tank plug (11). Fit the tank cover on the tank. Fit the ten clips (12) in the points indicated in the figure.
  • Page 163 Fix the tank cover by means of the upper screws (6) and lateral screws (5) with Nylon washer. Tighten the screws to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 164 Fit the side conveyor (4) by sliding it first forwards and then backwards so that tab (C) engages in slot (D) and U- bolts (E) in tabs (F).
  • Page 165 Fix the side conveyor (4) by tightening screws (3) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 166 Fit the Hands free cover (1) by inserting the cover pins in the tank vibration damping pads and press on tabs (2) until they engage into seat.

Page 167: U.s.a. Version

  • Page 169 Removing the tank fairings Remove the Hands Free cover (1) by pulling it upwards to release teeth (2). U.S.A. VERSION...
  • Page 170 Loosen screws (3) and remove conveyor (4). Repeat this operation on the other conveyor.
  • Page 171 Loosen screws (5) from both sides of the tank cover (7).
  • Page 172 Loosen the two upper screws (6). Remove the tank cover (7) by sliding it upwards.
  • Page 174 Refitting the front half-fairing Conveyor upper cover If previously removed, refit the conveyor upper cover as follows: fix the temperature sensor (10) to the central conveyor (11) by means of two screws (12) with gasket (13). Tighten the two screws (11) to a torque of 0.9 Nm ± 10%. Position the central conveyor (11) inside the conveyor upper cover (B).
  • Page 175 Connect the temperature sensor (10). Position the conveyor upper cover (B) by inserting the two pins (16) in rubber elements (17).
  • Page 176 Fix the conveyor upper cover (B) to the tank cover by means of screws (9) by fitting a plastic washer between the screw and the cover. Tighten them to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 177 Insert the lower panel (8) of conveyor (B) and fix it with screws (7). Tighten screws (7) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 178 Side panels Check the presence on the water radiator of the retaining brackets (18). If not present, fix them by tightening screws (19) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%. Fit the vibration damper (5). Check that the damper is on support (2). If not, lubricate with indicated product the hole (22) and fit the damper.
  • Page 179 Position support (2) by inserting U-bolt (23) in tooth (24) of the tank cover on the upper side.
  • Page 180 Fix support (2) by starting screw (3) highlighted in the figure. Tighten the screw (3) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Insert the threaded bushing (25) in the rear hole of the vibration damper (5). Use the indicated product to lubricate the surface that will be against screw (4).
  • Page 181 Tighten the screw (4) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Start the remaining screws (3) and tighten them to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Check that on the panel there are two clips (26).
  • Page 182 Position the panel on its support: upper part tabs (27) in slots (28) and U-bolts (29) in tabs (30). Fix panel (A) by tightening screws (1) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 184 Removing the front half-fairing The front half-fairing consists of two parts: A) side panels; B) conveyor upper cover. Video Side panels The procedure below describes how to remove one side panel but it applies to both tabs. Remove the two screws (1) securing the side panel (A). Remove the side panel (A).
  • Page 185 To remove support (2), loosen the three screws (3). Loosen the retaining screw (4) of rubber element (5). Remove support (2) from rubber element (5). Remove the two conveyors (6) "Removing the tank cover".
  • Page 186 Conveyor upper cover Loosen the three screws (7) securing the conveyor (B) lower panel (8). Remove the lower panel (8).
  • Page 187 Remove from both sides the retaining screws (9) of conveyor (B). Pull conveyor (B) forwards by releasing its retainers. During this operation, pay attention not to damage the temperature sensor cable (10). Disconnect the temperature sensor (10).
  • Page 189 Refitting the seat Fit the two pins (4) of seat (3) in the relevant housings (5) on vehicle frame. Press seat (3) towards vehicle front and lock it. Lubricate rear seat (2) pin (6) housing with indicated product. Fit rear seat (2) pin (7) in housing (8) on frame. Push seat (2) down to lock pin (6) in seat lock.
  • Page 191 Seat components and height adjustment If previously removed, fit seat support (10) and tighten screws (9) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%. Check for eccentric (13) presence, if it needs to be fitted, tighten screw (14) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 192 If seat height needs to be changed, it is possible to increase it by positioning the two shims (11). After positioning them, fix them by tightening screws (12) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%. In case of "lowered seat" configuration, spacer (B) must be installed on passenger seat. Tighten the screws (A) to a torque of 2 Nm ±...
  • Page 194 Refitting side body panel and tail guard Tail guard Reposition the tail guard (7) inside the rear subframe. Insert the retaining screws (6) and tighten them to 18 Nm ± 10% following the indicated sequence and applying the specified threadlocker. Insert the lock block (5) and fix it with screws (4).
  • Page 195 Fit the two special screws (15) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Position the side body panel (3) so that the two tabs (9) engage in the frame hooks (8). At the same time, the two tabs (10) must engage under the tank cover (11).
  • Page 197 Start screws (1) with the relevant washer (2) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 198 Removing the side body panels and the tail guard Side body panels Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Loosen screws (1) securing side body panel (3) to the rear subframe, collecting washers (2). Remove the side body panel by sliding it towards the vehicle rear side.
  • Page 199 Tail guard Undo the screws (4) and remove the seat lock block (5). Loosen screws (6) that retain the tail guard. Remove the tail guard (7) by prying in the indicated point.
  • Page 201 Removing the seat Insert key inside seat lock (1), and turn it clockwise until hook clicks. To slide passenger seat (2) out of the front retainer, push it forward, lift it, and remove it. To remove rider seat (3) from vehicle, pull it back, and lift it.
  • Page 203 Refitting the belly pan From disassembled sump guard LEFT SIDE SUMP GUARD Fit the vibration dampers (6) and (7) with spacer (8). Fit clip (9). RIGHT SIDE SUMP GUARD Fit the vibration dampers (10) and (11) with spacer (12). CENTRAL SUMP GUARD Fit clips (13).
  • Page 204 Match the LH sump guard to central sump guard, inserting hose guide (A) in-between. Start screws (14). Do not tighten to torque. Position the just assembled assembly and fix it by starting screw (2) on the lower LH footpeg holder plate and screw (1) on the LH sump guard support plate.
  • Page 205 Start screw (5) on the silent block. Fit the RH sump guard by starting screw (4) on the lower RH footpeg holder plate and screw (3) on the RH sump guard support plate.
  • Page 206 Fix the RH sump guard (A) to the central sump guard (B) by starting screws (15). Tighten screws (4) and (2) to a torque of ± 20 Nm 10%. Tighten screws (3) and (1) to a torque of ± 5 Nm 10%.
  • Page 207 Tighten the screw (5) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 208 Tighten screws (14) and (15) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 209 From assembled sump guard Position the assembled sump guard and start screws (1) (2) (3) (4) and (5). Tighten the screws to the following torque values: Screws (4) and (2) to a torque of ± 20 Nm 10%; Screws (3) and (1) to a torque of ± 5 Nm 10%;...
  • Page 210 Tighten the screw (5) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 211 Removing the belly pan Loosen the two screws (1) and (2) on the vehicle left side. Working on the vehicle lower side, loosen screws (3) and (4). Undo the lower screw (5) and remove the belly pan.
  • Page 213 Refitting the front mudguard Warning Do not ride the motorcycle without the front mudguard fitted to avoid the risk of the brake hoses fouling the wheel when braking. Refit sensors. Refit sensor brackets (6) and secure them in place by tightening screws (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Tighten speed sensor (3) screw (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ±...
  • Page 214 Fit mudguard (2) by starting screws (1) with spacers. Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ± 10%.

Page 215: Front Mudguard Half Kit

  • Page 216 During assembly, insert tabs (10) in the housing on front mudguard (2). Make sure that semi-mudguard (8) profiles are aligned as shown in the figure.
  • Page 217 NO FRONT MUDGUARD HALF KIT Fit bracket (9) and fasten it by tightening screws (7) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 218 Removing the front mudguard Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel) The following pictures show the front mudguard with installed mudguard half. Loosen front mudguard (2) retaining screws (1), keeping the relevant nylon washers. Loosen screw (4), and remove the speed sensor (3).
  • Page 219 Loosen the two retaining screws (5) of left accelerometer holder bracket (6). Repeat the same procedure on right bracket.
  • Page 220 Loosen the two screws (7) and remove the half mudguard (8).
  • Page 221 If mudguard half (8) has not been installed, remove bracket (9) by loosening screws (7).
  • Page 223 Refitting the splash guard If previously disassembled, reassemble the chain guard (4) with rear splash guard (1) as shown in the figure. Position the splash guard (1) with chain guard (4) on the swinging arm. Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (2) and (3). Start and tighten the retaining screws (2) and (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ±...
  • Page 225 Removing the splash guard Remove the splash guard (1) with chain guard from the rear swinging arm by loosening screws (2) and (3). Remove splash guard (1) from chain guard (4).
  • Page 227 Refitting the rear mudguard Fit rear mudguard (2) on swinging arm and start screws (1), (3) and (4). Tighten screws (1), (3) and (4) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 230 Removing the rear mudguard Working on the vehicle RH side, loosen the screws (1) that retain the rear mudguard (2) to the swinging arm. From the vehicle LH side, loosen screws (3) and (4) on the rear side.
  • Page 232 Branch 10 Cables not inserted inside main wiring. Table 10A POS. DESCRIPTION Starter motor cable Battery negative cable Generator cable...
  • Page 236 Table 10B POS. DESCRIPTION Ground cable...
  • Page 237 Table 10C POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 238 Horizontal head spark plug Horizontal head coils...
  • Page 239 Table 10D POS. DESCRIPTION Vertical head spark plug Vertical head coils...
  • Page 241 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 242 Branch 9 Table 9A POS. DESCRIPTION USB cable Alarm presetting cable 12V power outlet Solenoid starter cable Table 9B POS. DESCRIPTION Exhaust valve motor + rear accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY)
  • Page 243 Table 9C POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 244 Rear shock absorber preload cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Table 9D POS. DESCRIPTION Rear speed sensor cable Rear shock absorber regulator cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Gear sensor cable...
  • Page 248 Table 9E POS. DESCRIPTION Rear shock absorber preload cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Tail light cable...
  • Page 249 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 250 Branch 8 Table 8A POS. DESCRIPTION Vertical head knock sensor cable Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable...
  • Page 251 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 252 Branch 7 Table 7A POS. DESCRIPTION ECU 1 cable ECU 2 cable Table 7B POS. DESCRIPTION Injector wiring cable Horizontal solenoid valve cable Vertical solenoid valve cable Vertical head map sensor cable...
  • Page 253 Table 7C POS. DESCRIPTION Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable Intake side vertical head timing regulator cable Exhaust side vertical head timing check cable Intake side vertical head timing check cable...
  • Page 254 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 255 Branch 6 Table 6A POS. DESCRIPTION Hands free cable Airbox cable Tank plug presetting cable Ground jointing...
  • Page 257 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 258 Branch 5...
  • Page 259 Table 5A POS. DESCRIPTION Water temperature sensor cable Pick-up cable...
  • Page 261 Table 5B POS. DESCRIPTION Vertical oxygen sensor cable Side stand cable...
  • Page 263 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 264 Branch 4 TABLE 4A POS. DESCRIPTION RH switch cable Front brake switch cable Throttle control cable Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY) Secondary air system valve cable...
  • Page 265 TABLE 4B POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 266 Front brake switch cable Throttle control cable Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY) Right turn indicator cable...
  • Page 267 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 268 Branch 3 Table 3A POS. DESCRIPTION Purge valve cable...
  • Page 269 Table 3B POS. DESCRIPTION ABS control unit cable...
  • Page 270 Table 3C POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 271 Horizontal head knock sensor cable Intake side horizontal head timing regulator cable Intake side horizontal head timing check cable...
  • Page 272 Table 3D POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 273 Intake side horizontal head timing check cable Exhaust side horizontal head timing check cable Exhaust side horizontal head timing regulator cable...
  • Page 274 Table 3E POS. DESCRIPTION Horn cable Horizontal map sensor cable...
  • Page 275 Table 3F POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 276 Horizontal oxygen sensor cable...
  • Page 277 Table 3G POS. DESCRIPTION LH fan cable...
  • Page 278 Table 3H POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 279 RH fan cable "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 280 Branch 2 Table 2A POS. DESCRIPTION Front speed sensor cable Front suspension cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Front wheel accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Frame accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Clutch switch cable Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY) Turn indicator cable...
  • Page 281 Table 2B POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 282 Front speed sensor cable Front wheel accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Frame accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY)
  • Page 283 Table 2C POS. DESCRIPTION...
  • Page 284 Front suspension cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Clutch switch cable Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY) Turn indicator cable LH switch cable...
  • Page 285 Table 2D POS. DESCRIPTION Fuel pump cable Bluetooth cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)
  • Page 286 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...
  • Page 287 Branch 1 TABLE 1A POS. DESCRIPTION Instrument panel TABLE 1B POS. DESCRIPTION Instrument panel Oil temperature sensor cable Oil pressure switch cable GPS presetting cable Air temperature sensor cable 12V power outlet...
  • Page 288 TABLE 1C POS. DESCRIPTION Air temperature sensor cable...
  • Page 289 TABLE 1D POS. DESCRIPTION 12V power outlet...
  • Page 290 TABLE 1E POS. DESCRIPTION Oil temperature sensor cable Oil pressure switch cable...
  • Page 291 "ROUTING OF WIRING ON FRAME"...

Page 292: Routing Of Wiring On Frame

  • Page 293 MAIN WIRING POSITIONING Position main wiring as shown in the figure.
  • Page 295 BRANCH KEY BRANCHES DESCRIPTION Branch 1 Instrument panel Oil temperature sensor cable Oil pressure switch cable GPS presetting cable Air temperature sensor cable 12V power outlet Branch 2 Front speed sensor cable Front suspension cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Front wheel accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Frame accelerometer cable (FOR S VERSION, ONLY) Clutch switch cable Heated handgrip cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY)
  • Page 296 Fuel pump cable Bluetooth cable (IF ENABLED, ONLY) Branch 3 Intake side purge valve cable ABS control unit cable Horizontal head knock sensor cable Horizontal head timing regulator cable Intake side horizontal head timing check cable Exhaust side horizontal head timing check cable Exhaust side horizontal head timing regulator cable Horn cable Horizontal map sensor cable...
  • Page 297 Horizontal solenoid valve cable Vertical solenoid valve cable Vertical head map sensor cable Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable Intake side vertical head timing regulator cable Exhaust side vertical head timing check cable Intake side vertical head timing check cable Branch 8 Vertical head knock sensor cable Exhaust side vertical head timing regulator cable...
  • Page 298 Key to wiring diagram Front 12V power socket GPS navigation system Bluetooth Right-hand switch Right-hand switch Inertial sensor Immobilizer Hands free Hands Free Relay Battery Wiring ground Fused solenoid LH fan RH fan Generator Rectifier USB socket Rear 12V power outlet Data Acquisition / Diagnosis Anti-theft system alarm Tail light...
  • Page 299 Side stand switch Engine temperature sensor Air temperature sensor Vertical MAP sensor Horizontal MAP sensor Vertical cylinder knock sensor Horizontal cylinder knock sensor Secondary air sensor Vertical cylinder EX timing sensor Vertical cylinder IN timing sensor Horizontal cylinder EX timing sensor Horizontal cylinder IN timing sensor Vertical cylinder EX timing connector Vertical cylinder IN timing connector...

Page 300: Technological Dictionary

  • Page 301 Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual Antilock Braking System Black Box System Controller Area Network Local Interconnect Network Dashboard DUCATI Traction Control DUCATI Wheelie Control Engine Control Unit...

Page 302: Rectifier-Regulator

  • Page 303 A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B). Important Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits. Warning Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system or even cause fire.

Page 304: Removing The Generator

  • Page 305 Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover), the stator (A) (Disassembling the generator cover) and the rotor (B) (Removing the flywheel/generator assembly). Refitting the generator Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly) and the generator cover (Refitting the generator cover).
  • Page 306 Refitting the battery Position ABS positive (7) and battery/solenoid starter (6) wiring. Tighten the screw (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Position ground cable (4) and tighten screw (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Secure battery mounting bracket (2) with screw (1).
  • Page 307 Removing the battery Battery safety rules Warning Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge, batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames. Instructions for battery use The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
  • Page 309 Topping up the electrolyte Remove the battery (Removing the battery). Warning Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules). The electrolyte in the battery is corrosive and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains sulphuric acid.
  • Page 310 Important Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells. Warning Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas. Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery.
  • Page 311 Note Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently. Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty minutes. If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container. Important Never move the container away from the battery.
  • Page 312 3 -12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 30 min. Over 12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 1 hour. Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph "Recharging the battery".
  • Page 313 of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: CER 15 01 10* (Packaging containing residues of or contaminated by dangerous substances). Note It should be noted that the above-mentioned CER code is a general and non-binding provision, provided based on product original composition and intended use.
  • Page 314 Recharging the battery Refer to the label on the battery showing the inspection intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage. Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more than one month could damage it.
  • Page 315 Checking the battery charging system Perform checks on the system as indicated in the following paragraphs: Recharging the battery Topping up the electrolyte Generator Rectifier-regulator...
  • Page 316 Solenoid starter The solenoid starter (1) is located inside the electrical component compartment. Removal procedure Disconnect the solenoid starter connector (2) from the wiring. Slide out solenoid starter from its seat. Remove protection (3). Undo the screws (4), taking care to collect the spring washers (5). Remove the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (6) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (7).
  • Page 317 Checking operation of the solenoid starter. Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal and negative terminal of the connector. With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded pins) of the solenoid starter, check for electric continuity. If there is no electric continuity, ensure that the terminals are not oxidised and apply water repellent spray. Change the solenoid starter if the malfunction persists.
  • Page 319 Starter motor Electric features: 12 V / 0.7 kW The starter motor is highly compact and reliable, therefore rarely raises any operating issue. In case of faults: - ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows no sign of oxidation; - if the terminal is properly tightened and free from oxidation, remove the starter motor and test it under no-load conditions (no load applied to the shaft).
  • Page 320 Electric starting system The electric starting system consists of a solenoid starter (1) and a starter motor (2).
  • Page 321 Replacing the tail light bulbs The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light. In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1) (Removing the number plate holder).
  • Page 322 Tail light The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light. In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1) (Removing the number plate holder).
  • Page 323 Aligning the headlight Position the vehicle with tyres inflated at the indicated pressure (“Front wheel" and "Rear wheel”) and a person seating on the seat, perfectly perpendicular to his/her longitudinal axis. Position the vehicle 10 metres from a wall or a screen. On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the headlight and a vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
  • Page 325 Replacing the headlight bulbs This model features a full-LED headlight so, in case of failure, the whole headlight will have to be replaced (Removing the headlight).
  • Page 326 Headlight This S version features a LED headlight so, in case of malfunction of a bulb, the whole headlight must be replaced.

Page 327: Right-Hand Switch

Page 328: left-hand switch, page 329: electric diagram.

  • Page 330 Checking the fuses Electric components are protected by eleven fuses located in the two fuse boxes. In each fuse box (A) and (B) there are three spare fuses. FUSE BOXES (A) and (B) The fuse boxes (A) and (B) are located in the electrical components compartment, under the seat. Remove seat as described in paragraph "Removing the seat".
  • Page 331 Fuse box (B) Fuse box (B) key El. item Rat. +30 EMS LOAD RELAY 25 A +30 FUEL PUMP RELAY 10 A +30 Starter RELAY 7.5 A +30 Instrument panel 10 A +30 Black Box System (BBS) 10 A +30 ABS UBMR 25 A +30 ABS UBVR 15 A...

Page 332: Main Fuses

  • Page 333 Main fuses key El. item Rat. Main fuse 30 A Spare 30 A ELECTRIC DIAGRAM...
  • Page 334 Important Before replacing a damaged fuse with a new one of the same rating, identify the cause of the problem. A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (F). Important Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits. Warning Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value.
  • Page 335 Side stand switch The side stand switch is located on the side stand ball joint and provides the side stand position information to the control unit. The detected signal is output to the control unit, which shares it with the instrument panel. CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment;...
  • Page 336 Air temperature sensor The air temperature sensor (1), located on vehicle front part, detects the ambient temperature. The detected signal is sent to the control unit, that shares it with the instrument panel; this allows performing map corrections if necessary. CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment;...
  • Page 338 Engine temperature sensor The coolant temperature sensor (1) outputs the electric signal to the engine control unit, which shares it with the instrument panel through the CAN line. CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment;...
  • Page 339 Should the DDS 2 detect an error such as "coolant temperature sensor short circuit or open circuit" inside the control unit memory, check the electric system parts connecting sensor to control unit. If this section of the electric system is not faulty (no open circuit, no short circuits, no short circuit to ground), replace the sensor.

Page 340: Clutch Switch

  • Page 341 Oil pressure sensor The oil pressure sensor (pressure switch) (1) is located in the front of the oil cooler. To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (1), proceed as follows. Use the diagnosis instrument DDS 2 to check that oil pressure in the engine lubrication circuit complies with the specified values.
  • Page 342 ELECTRIC DIAGRAM...
  • Page 343 Gear/neutral sensor The gear sensor (1) is positioned on the vehicle rear RH side. CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat.
  • Page 344 Rear stop switch The rear STOP switch (1) is located inside the RH footpeg holder plate. REAR STOP SWITCH CONTROL To check operation of the rear (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the rear brake lever is operated, there must be electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch.
  • Page 346 Front stop switch The front STOP switch (1) is located on the front lever front side. CONTROLS To check operation of the front (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the front brake lever is operated, there must be electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch. No electric continuity should be available when brakes are not operated.

Page 348: Removal Procedure

  • Page 349 ASSEMBLY Position exhaust valve motor (6) inside its support (2). Fasten exhaust valve motor (6) using the two screws (4) and positioning the two washers (5) in-between. Tighten the two screws (4) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Fasten support (2) to the frame using the three screws (1) with washer (3).
  • Page 350 CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat. ELECTRIC DIAGRAM...

Page 352: Solenoid Valves

  • Page 353 ELECTRIC DIAGRAM...
  • Page 354 Coils The ignition coil increases the input voltage of the current alternator and brings the voltage to a value that allows the spark creation in the spark plug. Four coils are fitted on the vehicle, two for the horizontal cylinder (1) and (2) and two for the vertical cylinder (3) and (4).
  • Page 355 Disconnect the connector (7). Disconnect caps as described in paragraph "Replacing the spark plugs". Remove vertical cylinder coil (4). Disconnect the connector (9). Disconnect caps as described in paragraph "Replacing the spark plugs". Loosen the two screws (10). Remove vertical cylinder coil (3).
  • Page 356 Disconnect connectors (11). Disconnect caps as described in paragraph "Replacing the spark plugs". Remove the two screws (10). Remove coils (1) and (2). ELECTRIC CHECKS Primary winding resistance: 0.6 Ohm PIN OUT Function PIN 1 Control signal to negative PIN 2 Positive to battery DIAGNOSIS CHECKS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic...
  • Page 357 socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat. ELECTRIC DIAGRAM Vertical cylinder coils Horizontal cylinder coils...
  • Page 359 Accelerometers The Multistrada 1200 S features three accelerometers located as follows: one on front mudguard, one on bottom yoke and one on vehicle back, mounted to frame/swinging arm. REMOVAL PROCEDURE Front mudguard sensor For sensor removal, please refer to chapters "Removing the front mudguard".
  • Page 360 Loosen screw (3) connecting sensor (4) to swinging arm (5). Remove exhaust valve motor as shown in chapter "Removing the side panels". Unscrew the screws (6) and remove the sensor (4). REFITTING PROCEDURE Front mudguard sensor For sensor refitting procedure refer to chapter "Refitting the front mudguard".
  • Page 361 Fix sensor to bottom yoke using the two screws (2). Rear sensor Insert sensor (4) in its support and fix it with two screws (6). Refit exhaust valve motor/position sensor as described in chapter "Refitting the side panels". Fasten sensor (4) to swinging arm (5) using screw (3).
  • Page 362 CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat. ELECTRIC DIAGRAM Front mudguard sensor...
  • Page 363 Bottom yoke front sensor Rear sensor...
  • Page 365 Bluetooth The Bluetooth control unit in the vehicle electric system works as a "bridge" among different electronic devices. REMOVAL PROCEDURE For Bluetooth control unit removal and refitting, remove the instrument panel first "Removing the panel" and "Refitting the panel". Remove the Bluetooth control unit (1) by sliding it upwards. Disconnect the connector (2).
  • Page 366 ELECTRIC DIAGRAM...
  • Page 367 Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) The inertial platform (1) is located in the electrical components compartment. The anti-wheelie function is performed through two closed loops on the following signals: - Longitudinal acceleration; - Pitch angle The signal is read by the ECU that will control the throttle valve consequently. Warning During the removal and refitting phase, do not turn the key on before the sensor is installed in its definitive position.

Page 369: Knock Sensor

  • Page 370 Vertical head...
  • Page 371 Accelerator Position System (APS) The Acceleration Position Sensor (APS) (1) or throttle twistgrip sensor, is a potentiometer that generates an electric input sent to the control unit which receives information on: throttle twistgrip position; activation dynamics To remove the APS, follow the instructions in chapter "Removing the throttle control".

Page 372: Oxygen Sensors

  • Page 373 ELECTRIC DIAGRAM Horizontal oxygen sensor Vertical oxygen sensor...
  • Page 375 Ducati Cornering Lights (DCL) The headlight is controlled by the Ducati Cornering light function that enhances road lighting in a bend. The lighting increases by 1/8 in the direction of the bend with motorcycle inclination above 7° with respect to the vertical axis.
  • Page 376 Local Interconnect Network (LIN) It is a serial communication between left-hand switch and instrument panel to manage the cruise control. For removal and refitting please refer to chapters "Removing the handlebar" and "Refitting the handlebar". CONTROLS Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment;...
  • Page 377 VIN CODE The VIN code is an alphanumerical code with 17 characters that clearly identifies a vehicle (family, model, country, serial number, …). This code can be stored in the instrument panel and read through the DDS 2 with suitable KWP2000 inputs. When replacing one of the above control units, this information must be copied onto the new control unit using DDS 2.
  • Page 378 Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) The cornering function has been added to the new ABS control unit (1). This has been possible thanks to the interaction with the inertial platform (IMU). The necessary signals for correct operation are: Front wheel speed; Rear wheel speed;...
  • Page 380 CAN line This model utilises a CAN line (Controller Area Network) which has made it possible to greatly simplify the layout of the electrical system and consequently reduce its overall weight. The CAN line is connected to two nodes: the instrument panel and the engine control unit. Thanks to this communication line no sensor doubles are required as sensor signals are shared by both electronic units.
  • Page 381 Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC) The inertial platform (1) is located in the electrical components compartment. The anti-wheelie function is performed through two closed loops on the following signals: - Longitudinal acceleration; - Pitch angle The signal is read by the ECU that will control the throttle valve consequently.
  • Page 383 Ducati Traction Control (DTC) The traction control is managed by the BBS. Thanks to the front speed sensor (1) and to the rear speed sensor (2), the control unit can control vehicle traction according to the speed difference between the two wheels.
  • Page 384 To remove and refit the speed sensors, refer to chapters "Replacing the front phonic wheel sensor" and "Replacing the rear phonic wheel sensor" ELECTRIC DIAGRAM Front sensor Rear sensor...
  • Page 386 Rpm sensor (pick-up) The engine rpm sensor (1) is an inductive sensor that detects the teeth of a phonic wheel by means of an alternate signal proportional to the teeth passage speed. The toothed pulley usually features "Xn teeth with a gap of two teeth" as reference for the first cylinder TDC. Position 1: the pick-up sensor detects the "full area"...
  • Page 387 Check control unit correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket (A), which is positioned inside electrical components compartment; to reach it, remove the seat. ELECTRIC DIAGRAM...
  • Page 388 Throttle Position System (TPS) In the Multistrada, the TPS is integrated in the ETV.
  • Page 389 Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV) The ETV (1) and (2) is the motor that controls throttle valve opening and closing and is located on the throttle body. In case of failure it is not possible to replace only the ETV, but it is necessary to replace the complete throttle body.
  • Page 390 VERTICAL ETV WIRING DIAGRAM (1) To remove and refit the ETV, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox and throttle body" and "Refitting the airbox and throttle body".
  • Page 391 Black Box System (BBS) BBS (1) is an electronic unit connected to the CAN line, having the following functions: DSS; DTC/DWC; Fog lights (if enabled); D|Air (if enabled); Handgrip heating (if enabled); Alarm (if enabled). In Signals: Front wheel accelerometer; Bottom yoke accelerometer (if enabled);...

Page 392: Removal Procedure

  • Page 394 Map sensor The Map sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) measures the air pressure to calculate the exact quantity of fuel to be injected. The control unit processes the intake air pressure value and the external temperature value to calculate the quantity of intake air in the cylinders and, based on the preset stoichiometric ratio, determines the correct quantity of fuel to be delivered to the injectors.
  • Page 395 V Map REMOVAL/REASSEMBLY To remove and refit the MAP sensor, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox and throttle body" and "Refitting the airbox and throttle body".
  • Page 396 Engine control unit (ECU) The engine control unit (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit. The ECU (1) controls many components, among which: Vertical and horizontal injectors; Vertical and horizontal cylinder secondary coil; Vertical and horizontal cylinder main coil; Vertical and horizontal cylinder ETV DC Motor; Purge valve;...
  • Page 397 ECU 1 connector ECU 2 connector To remove and refit the ECU, see the procedure described in chapter "Removing the airbox"...
  • Page 398 Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE In case of key acknowledgement system or key malfunction, the instrument panel allows the user to enter his/her own PIN code to temporarily restore motorcycle operation. If the PIN CODE function is active, the instrument panel activates the possibility to enter the release code within "Menu 1"...

Page 400: Key Duplication

  • Page 401 Replacing the battery in the active key Note The keys do not need to be reprogrammed after replacing the battery. Remove the metal part of the battery. Remove the rear plastic shell of the grip by pushing it forward and lifting it as shown in the figures. After separating the plastic shells, remove the battery protection sheath (2).
  • Page 402 Reinstall the rear plastic shell and push slightly as shown in the figure. Make sure shells close properly and that the key is well closed.
  • Page 403 Keys The Owner receives a set of keys comprising: 1 active key (1); 1 passive key (2). They contain the code used by the "Hands free" system for the Key-On, in different modes. The active key (1) is the one that is normally used and has a button (A) that, when pressed, makes the metal part exit (B).

Page 404: Immobilizer System

Page 405: turn indicators.

  • Page 406 Once the "Hazard" function is activated, if vehicle is turned off (key turned to "OFF"), the function stays active for two hours. After two hours, the turn indicators switch OFF automatically in order to save battery charge. Note If user performs a Key-ON while the "Hazard" function is still active, the function will remain ON (temporary turn indicator control interruption is allowed during the instrument panel initial check routine).
  • Page 407 "Ducati Kit part no. 981029498"). Warning In case of interference or noise due to particular conditions of the external environment, the Ducati earphone kit no. 981029498 also allows sharing the music being played directly from rider helmet to passenger helmet (for further details please refer to the manual of the earphones coming with the Ducati kit part no.
  • Page 408 During the search stage, user can: scroll the list by pressing buttons (1) and (2); select "CONNECT", by pressing button (4) on the device to be paired. After selection, the label of the selected device will display "WAIT". To quit the Pairing stage, select EXIT and press button (4). It is possible to pair up to: 2 smartphones;...
  • Page 409 To pair a Smartphone, the pairing procedure with the Bluetooth control unit requires user to enter a code (0000), which is only necessary the first time the device is paired with the Bluetooth control unit. In this case, the Instrument panel displays the PIN to be entered "INSERT PIN ON SMARTPHONE: 0000". When user enters the PIN on the Smartphone, the device will be paired.
  • Page 410 After pairing, message WAIT will be replaced by the name of connected device. (system will scroll through its complete name, and then string is cut to the first characters). Deleting associated devices From the Bluetooth menu, associated device list can be opened by pressing button (4) at DEVICE item. From the list of associated devices, user can select the device by pressing button (1) or button (2).
  • Page 411 Setting the units of measurement This function allows you to change the units of measurement of the displayed values, regardless of the Country configuration. To manually set the units of measurement, you must enter the Setting Menu. Select "UNIT SETTING" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press CONFIRM MENU button (4).
  • Page 412 The selected unit of measurement will be used by the instrument panel for the following indications: motorcycle speed and Average speed (km/h or mph); Odometer, Trip1, Trip2 and Trip Fuel (km or mi). Setting the units of measurement: Temperature This function allows you to change the units of measurement of the temperature. You open the "UNITS SETTING"...
  • Page 413 Setting the units of measurement: Fuel consumption This function allows you to change the units of measurement of the fuel consumption. You open the "UNITS SETTING" menu, as described on the previous pages. Select "CONSUMPTION" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press CONFIRM MENU button (4).

Page 415: Display Backlighting Setting

Page 416: clock setting.

  • Page 417 Press button (2) to increase minute value by 1 unit: 00, 01, ... 59, 00. Once you reach the value to be set, press CONFIRM MENU button (4) and the set minutes will stop flashing. Storing the time Time is set automatically any time you quit each single setting (and colon is flashing). To exit the menu and go back to previous page, select EXIT and press button (4).

Page 418: Month Setting

  • Page 419 Once option is highlighted, press button (4). Day value starts flashing. Press button (1) to decrease day value by 1 unit: 31, 30, ... 01, 31. Press button (2) to increase day value by 1 unit: 01, 02, ... 31, 01. Once you reach the value to be set, press button (4) and the set day will stop flashing.
  • Page 421 Changing the PIN CODE To change the existing PIN CODE and activate a new one, you must open the Setting Menu. Select "PIN CODE" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press button (4). You open the "PIN CODE"...
  • Page 422 Entering the "new" code: Press button (4), only one digit indicating "0" turns green; Each time you press the button (2) the displayed number increases by one (+ 1) up to "9" and then starts back from "0"; Each time you press the button (1) the displayed number decreases by one (- 1) up to "1" and then starts back from "0";...
  • Page 424 The motorcycle owner must activate (store) the PIN code; if there is already a stored PIN, contact an Authorised Ducati Dealer to have the function "reset". To perform this procedure, the Authorised Ducati Dealer may ask you to demonstrate that you are the owner of the motorcycle.
  • Page 425 Once the first PIN CODE is stored, this menu page is no longer available and is replaced by the page for changing the PIN CODE. The page for entering the very first PIN CODE is active and available again only in case the PIN CODE function is reset (but this is only possible at a DUCATI Authorised Service Centre).
  • Page 426 Customising the Riding Mode: Reset to default settings (ALL DEFAULT) This function allows restoring the default values set by Ducati for all the parameters associated to all riding modes. To gain access to this function, enter the Setting Menu, use button (1) or (2) to select RIDING MODE and press button (4).
  • Page 427 Customising the Riding Mode: Reset to default setting (DEFAULT) This function allows restoring the default values set by Ducati for the parameters associated to a specific riding mode. You enter the Setting Menu. Select "RIDING MODE" option, by pressing button (1) or (2).
  • Page 428 Customising the Riding Mode: ABS setting This function disables or sets ABS level for the selected riding mode. You enter the Setting Menu. Select "RIDING MODE" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press button (4). Enter the "RIDING MODE"...
  • Page 429 Customising the Riding Mode: DWC level setting This function disables or sets DWC level for the selected riding mode. You enter the Setting Menu. Select "RIDING MODE" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press button (4). Enter the "RIDING MODE"...
  • Page 430 Customising the Riding Mode: DTC level setting This function disables or sets DTC level for the selected riding mode. You enter the Setting Menu. Select "RIDING MODE" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press button (4). Enter the "RIDING MODE"...
  • Page 431 Customising the Riding Mode: Engine setting This function customises engine power associated with each riding mode. You enter the Setting Menu. Select "RIDING MODE" option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press button (4). Enter the "RIDING MODE" menu. Select the desired riding mode (SPORT, TOURING, URBAN or ENDURO) from the drop-down menu, by pressing button (1) or (2).
  • Page 432 Customising the Riding Mode: Parameter storage After changing a Riding Mode parameter (ENGINE, DTC, DWC and/or ABS), to make the change effective, it is necessary to save it before quitting the customisation menu. It is possible to save the parameters set for each riding mode. To save the parameter settings of a Riding Mode, it is necessary to gain access to the SETTING MENU, use buttons (1) and (2) to select the message "R.M."...
  • Page 433 Any parameter change made is saved and remains in the memory also after a Battery-OFF. The riding parameters set by Ducati can be restored for each single riding mode through the DEFAULT Function. If you highlight "EXIT" and press button (4) you quit the sub-menu and go back to previous page.

Page 435: Setting Menu

  • Page 437 Fog lights The instrument panel activates the fog light warning light when the fog lights (option) are present and active. In case of fog light fault, the DSB displays the flashing Fog Light warning light and turns on the Generic Error light.
  • Page 438 Side stand warning The instrument panel receives information on side stand status and if side stand is down/open, the icon "SIDE STAND" is displayed on a red background. In case of Side stand sensor fault, the instrument panel will display the stand down/up indication with MIL light on. If instrument panel does not receive side stand status, stand down/open "SIDE STAND"...

Page 439: Error Warnings

  • Page 440 Warnings/Alarms The instrument panel manages a number of warnings / alarms, aimed at giving useful information to the rider during use. Upon Key-On, if there are any active warnings, the instrument panel displays the present warnings. During normal use, whenever a warning is triggered, the instrument panel automatically displays the warning. Whenever a warning is triggered, it is displayed for 10 seconds in a (well-visible icon) "large"...
  • Page 441 The activation of this "warning" indicates that the Hands Free system does not detect the "active key" near the vehicle. Note In this case, Ducati recommends making sure that the active key is nearby (and that it was not lost) or that it works properly. "Low" battery level of Hands Free (HF) key The activation of this "warning"...
  • Page 442 This warning is activated whenever ABS level 01 is selected. Warning In this case, Ducati recommends to ride carefully and use this type of ABS setting NOT for road, but for off-road use only. Date setting This function prompts the user to enter the date via the Setting Menu.

Page 444: Oil Service Or Service Date Or Desmo Service Indication

  • Page 445 OIL SERVICE or SERVICE DATE or DESMO SERVICE countdown indication After OIL SERVICE zero indication first reset (at 1,000 km - 600 mi), the instrument panel activates the following indications for 5 seconds upon Key-ON: the count of the mileage in kilometres (miles) remaining before the next OIL SERVICE (A) 1000 km (600 mi) earlier than the service threshold;...
  • Page 446 OIL SERVICE zero warning The first service warning is the OIL SERVICE zero and is triggered as soon as the odometer reaches the first 1,000 km (600 mi). Warning is displayed until "Reset" by the Ducati authorised service centre, during maintenance.

Page 447: Service Indication (Service)

Page 448: cruise control.

  • Page 449 The Ducati Cruise Control system controls the vehicle speed only between 50 Km/h (30 mph) and 200 Km/h (125 mph).
  • Page 450 Infotainment Multistrada 1200 fits the Ducati Multimedia System (DMS) as standard, thanks to which the user can answer phone calls, select and listen to music tracks, and receive SMS notifications by means of the Bluetooth technology. The instrument panel displays the Infotainment function status: Bluetooth activation and any connected devices (smartphone, earphones, navigator).
  • Page 451 caller's name or number. The rider will hear the ringing tone through Bluetooth earphones upon any incoming call. If there is an incoming call while the Player (A) is active, the latter is paused throughout the phone call and will resume operation when call is over.
  • Page 452 1) Why don't I receive any notification of received e-mails? E-mails are notified only if configured on the telephone source application. Check also that your phone supports the MAP profile. If so, the DUCATI MULTIMEDIA SYSTEM, during the pairing phase, will send an access request to such profile...
  • Page 453 7). In case of Android, please refer to points 2)4) 7) I do not receive any message notification on my iPhone. Why? Select Bluetooth in the Setting Menu. In the list "My devices" select "i" next to "Ducati Media System". Flag "Show notifications".

Page 454: Auxiliary Functions

  • Page 455 Level selection with Heated Handgrips "off": Even if heated handgrips are turned off, it is still possible to set them to LOW, MED or HIGH level, but the icon will have a white background (in DAY backlighting option of the instrument panel) or BLACK (in NIGHT backlighting option of the instrument panel).
  • Page 456 Ambient air temperature The instrument panel displays the ambient temperature in the set unit of measurement (°C or °F), followed by the set unit of measurement, the message T AIR and the thermometer symbol. The temperature value is displayed when ranging from -39 °C to +125 °C (or -38 °F ÷ +257 °F). For any different temperature (below -39 °C (-38 °F) or above +125 °C (+257 °F)) a string of three dashes "...

Page 457: Average Speed

Page 458: instantaneous fuel consumption.

  • Page 459 Average fuel consumption The instrument panel calculates and displays the motorcycle average fuel consumption, the set unit of measurement and CONS. AVG. The calculation is made considering the quantity of fuel used and the distance travelled since TRIP1 was last reset. Considering that the FULL and CORE layouts show the values for this function in a similar way to the TRACK layout, the example shown depicts the function in TRACK layout.
  • Page 460 Clock The instrument panel receives information about the time to be displayed. The instrument panel shows the time in the following format: hh (hours) : mm (minutes); followed by a.m. (from 12:00 to 11:59) or p.m. (from 12:00 to 11:59). In case of a power off (Battery Off), upon the following Key-On, the instrument panel displays 4 dashes "...
  • Page 461 Trip time (TRIP TIME) The instrument panel calculates and displays the trip time as hhh:mm followed by TRIP TIME. The calculation considers the time since TRIP1 was last reset. When TRIP1 is reset, this value is reset as well. The time count active phase occurs when the engine is running and the motorcycle is stopped (the time is automatically stopped when the motorcycle is not moving and the engine is OFF and restarts when the counting active phase starts again).
  • Page 462 Residual range (RANGE) This function displays the range according to the remaining fuel in the tank. Information is indicated as RANGE, in the set unit of measurement. If there is any function fault, the instrument panel will display three flashing dashes "- - -". If the instrument panel is not receiving RANGE information, a string of three steady dashes "- - -"...
  • Page 463 The trip meter counts and displays the partial distance covered by the motorcycle with the set unit of measurement (km or mi). The TRIP2 number (in km or miles) is displayed with the message TRIP2 and the indication of the unit of measurement.
  • Page 464 Trip meter 1 (TRIP 1) The trip meter counts and displays the partial distance covered by the motorcycle with the set unit of measurement (km or mi) and is used as a basis to calculate average fuel consumption, average speed and trip time.

Page 465: Odometer (Tot)

  • Page 466 Menu Functions For each of the four riding modes (SPORT, TOURING, URBAN and ENDURO) menu functions can be displayed in one of the following four layouts or modes: TRACK; FULL; CORE; OFF ROAD. Available functions are: Residual range (RANGE); Trip meter 1 (TRIP1); Trip meter 2 (TRIP2);...

Page 467: Engine Coolant Temperature

  • Page 468 Fuel level This function displays the fuel level. The low fuel light turns on when the level goes down to 2 steady marks that become orange and the fuel pump symbol is steady and orange: this means that there are approximately 4 litres in the tank. If the level goes further down, the last mark will be red and flashing and the fuel pump symbol will be steady and red.
  • Page 469 Gear The instrument panel receives information about the gear engaged and displays the corresponding value. If a gear is engaged, the displayed value may range from 1 to 6, while if in neutral N is displayed. A string of flashing dashes "--" is displayed if gear teach-in procedure has not been carried out yet, or if instrument panel is not receiving gear information.
  • Page 470 If DTC is set to OFF, DWC is also forced to OFF. The Ducati Wheelie Control system (DWC) supervises control of wheelie movement and settings vary through eight different levels that are calibrated to offer a different prevention and reaction to wheelies. Each Riding Mode features a pre-set intervention level.

Page 471: High Performance

  • Page 472 Levels 1, 2 and 3 require a great experience to ensure proper control. Level depends on type of track/path If the track/path features bends where out speed and gear are low, a lower level will be necessary; while a track/path with faster bends will allow the use of a higher level setting. Tips for use on the track We recommend to use level 8 for a couple of full laps in order to get used to the system.
  • Page 473 The motorcycle is equipped with ABS, the instrument panel indicates ABS status (on or off) by switching off, on or flashing the ABS warning light. The instrument panel displays: if the ABS is active, the message "ABS" and the rectangle with the set intervention level number (1 to 3) steady ON;...
  • Page 474 Excellent operation of the ABS system, for all available levels, is ensured only with the OE brake system and with OE tires and/or with the ones recommended by Ducati. In particular, OE tires for this motorcycle are Pirelli Scorpion Trail II in the following sizes: 120/70ZR17 at the front, 190/55ZR17 at the rear. Using tires with different...
  • Page 475 unsafe. It is recommended not to install tires of different size than the ones approved for your vehicle. Selecting level 3, the ABS will ensure a very stable braking thanks to lift-up control and front-to-rear combined braking, and the motorcycle will keep a good alignment during the whole braking action. ABS level 3 features active cornering function which, with vehicle leaning over, prevents wheel lockup and slipping as much as possible, within the physical limits allowed by the vehicle and by the road conditions.
  • Page 476 The instrument panel displays DTC status as follows: if DTC is active, the "DTC" and the rectangle with the Traction Control intervention level number (1 to 8); if DTC is active, but system is in degraded operation due to a fault, DTC lettering, the DTC intervention level number from 1 to 8 (flashing) and the relevant rectangle;...
  • Page 477 Excellent operation of the DTC system, for all available levels, is ensured only with the OE tires and/or with the ones recommended by Ducati. In particular, OE tires for this motorcycle are Pirelli Scorpion Trail II in the following sizes: 120/70ZR17 at the front, 190/55ZR17 at the rear. Using tires with different size and characteristics from the original tires may alter the operating characteristics of the system thus making it unsafe.
  • Page 478 while a track/path with bends all requiring different speeds will require a DTC level setting that is the best compromise for all bends. Level depends on riding style The DTC will tend to kick in more with a "smooth" riding style, where the motorcycle is leaned over further, rather than with a "rough"...
  • Page 479 A different standard screen layout (TRACK, FULL, CORE and OFF ROAD) is associated to every riding mode; it is set by Ducati or customised by the user from the setting functions; the layouts set by Ducati are associated to the Riding modes as follows: TRACK layout for the SPORT Riding mode;...
  • Page 480 Displayed information includes the values stored for each single Riding Mode. The stored settings may be the factory ones (Ducati default settings) or the ones customised by the owner. Any time CONFIRM MENU button (4) is pressed, the selected riding mode is highlighted together with the associated parameters A.
  • Page 481 Rider and passenger with luggage: symbol with two helmets and luggage steady on. Warning Ducati recommends changing the load mode when the motorcycle is stopped. If the load mode is changed while riding, be very careful (it is recommended to change the Riding mode at a low speed).

Page 482: Motorcycle Speed

  • Page 483 Engine rpm indication (RPM) The instrument panel receives the engine rpm information and displays it on the relevant bargraph (in TRACK, FULL and OFF ROAD display modes only). The information is displayed by the bargraph filling from the left to the right according to the engine rpm and with the enlargement of the numerical digit of the relevant miles (e.g., if the RPM value is "8000"...

Page 485: Trip Master

Page 486: parameter setting/displaying.

  • Page 487 Data displayed on the main screen for FULL layout are as follows: Motorcycle speed. Odometer Fuel level. Engine Coolant temperature Set Riding Mode. ABS ON/OFF indication. DTC level indication (ON) or DTC OFF indication. DWC level indication or DWC off indication. LOAD settings (motorcycle setup) Gear indication.
  • Page 488 Data displayed on the main screen for CORE layout are as follows: Motorcycle speed. Odometer Fuel level. Engine Coolant temperature Set Riding Mode. ABS ON/OFF indication. DTC level indication (ON) or DTC OFF indication. DWC level indication or DWC off indication. LOAD settings (motorcycle setup) Gear indication.
  • Page 489 From the main screen, with TRACK layout, press button (1) on LH switch to view Menu 1 information. RANGE; TRIP 1; TRIP 2; TRIP TIME. Press button (2) on LH switch to view Menu 2 information. Lap time (LAP) — only if active; Average fuel consumption (CONS.
  • Page 490 Press button (2) on LH switch to view Menu 2 information. Average fuel consumption (CONS. AVG); Instantaneous fuel consumption (CONS.I); Average speed (SPEED AVG); Air temperature. From the main screen, with CORE layout, press button (1) on LH switch to view Menu 1 information. RANGE;...
  • Page 491 The functions for "TRIP MASTER", "T-AIR" and "RANGE" are displayed instead of Menu 1 and Menu 2. Buttons (1) and (2) on LH switch are only used for the "TRIP MASTER" function. In the 3 layouts (TRACK, FULL, CORE) the instrument panel stores Menu 1 and Menu 2 settings in use upon KEY- OFF.
  • Page 492 Function buttons 1) UP CONTROL SWITCH Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position. 2) DOWN CONTROL SWITCH Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position . 3) HIGH-BEAM/FLASH BUTTON (FLASH) (see Fig ) The high-beam flash button may also be used for LAP functions.
  • Page 493 Instrument panel 1) TFT display. 2) NEUTRAL LIGHT N (GREEN). Comes on when in neutral position. 3) CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT (GREEN). Comes on to indicate operation of the Cruise Control. 4) HIGH BEAM LIGHT (BLUE). It turns on to indicate that the high beam lights are on and when the flasher is activated. 5) FUEL WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).
  • Page 494 unit due to a fault in the ABS control unit functioning 11) GENERIC ERROR WARNING LIGHT. It turns on when there are any "vehicle" errors, i.e. active errors triggered by any control unit other than the engine control unit. 12) DTC INTERVENTION LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW). No intervention Light OFF Spark advance cut...
  • Page 495 Refitting the front wheel When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows. Check the central spacer (8) is present on the wheel, see (Overhauling the front wheel). On the right side, lubricate seal (9) using the specified product. Fit spacer (8).
  • Page 496 Fit spacer (7) in the wheel. Apply the recommended grease on wheel shaft (6), thread included.
  • Page 497 Fit the complete wheel between the fork bottom ends. Take pin (6) fully home into the wheel hub.
  • Page 498 Fit the washer (4) on the end of the wheel shaft. Use the indicated product to grease the thread and underhead of the retaining nut (3). Fit nut (3) without tightening it to torque.
  • Page 499 Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of screws (2) retaining calliper (1). Pre-tighten the two screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Pull the brake lever many times. Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
  • Page 500 S Version Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of screws (2) retaining calliper (1). Fit the two spacers (A). Pre-tighten the two screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Pull the brake lever many times. Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 45 Nm ±...
  • Page 501 Tighten the screws (5) on the vehicle right side to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence. Tighten nut (3) to a torque of 63 Nm ± 5%.
  • Page 502 Loosen screws (5) that have been previously tightened to torque. Lower the motorcycle to the ground and push up and down the handlebars to load the suspension; so the fork bottom ends will become properly seated onto the wheel shaft. Tighten the screws (5) on both sides to a torque of 10 Nm ±...

Page 503: Wheel Bearings

  • Page 504 Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage. Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat. Using a tubular drift (D) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat. Use the same method to install the sealing rings (9).
  • Page 505 Overhauling the wheel rim After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows. Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged. Insert the shaft in the wheel and position it on two fixed reference blocks. Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round with respect to the shaft axis.
  • Page 506 If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
  • Page 507 Removing the front wheel Support the bike so that the wheel to be removed is raised from the ground. Remove front brake callipers (1) by loosening the two screws (2) securing the calliper to the fork leg without disconnecting them from the hoses. S Version Keep the spacers (A).
  • Page 508 Warning Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed. This can cause the brake pad pistons to come out. Loosen and remove nut (3) on wheel shaft left side. Collect washer (4).
  • Page 509 Loosen the wheel shaft retaining screws (5) on both fork bottom ends.
  • Page 510 Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (6) out from the opposite side and remove it. Remove the wheel and collect spacers (7) and (8).
  • Page 511 Working on both sides, remove the sealing ring (9).
  • Page 513 Refitting the rear wheel Lubricate the wheel shaft threaded end with indicated grease. Fit the wheel shaft by matching holes (A) on the rear rim with pins (B) on the rear hub.
  • Page 514 Install spacer (4), with the tapered surface facing the wheel, and washer (3). Tighten the nut (2) to a torque of 230 Nm ± 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft. Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.
  • Page 515 In case of tyre replacement fit the counter-weights by respecting the values indicated in the figure.
  • Page 517 Overhauling the rear wheel Check wheel rim conditions. As the wheel rim has no bearings, it should be supported using the service tool (A) no. 88713.2951. Note The service pin mentioned above allows fitting the wheel on the balancing machine. Overhauling the wheel rim Inspect the wheel rim as follows.
  • Page 519 Removing the rear wheel Remove the silencer. (Removing the silencer) Place the motorcycle on the rear service stand and engage the 1st gear. Remove the circlip (1). Using a suitable socket, loosen the wheel nut (2). Fully unscrew the nut (2) and then slide out washer (3) and spacer (4). Remove the rear wheel from the motorcycle.
  • Page 521 Refitting the front brake system Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Upon the system refitting, pay attention to the orientation of the hose unions (11), (13) and (14). Warning If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown in the figure.
  • Page 522 Operate the brake lever two or three times to pressurise the circuit so that the brake pads are brought into contact with the brake disc. Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the calliper screws (12) to a torque of 45 Nm ±...
  • Page 523 Position the front brake hose (4) on bracket (5). Tighten screw (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ±5%. If the speed sensor has been removed, it will be necessary to adjust the AIR-GAP. There must be a gap between ABS sensor and phonic wheel of 1.3 mm to 1.9 mm. To check it, use a suitable feeler gauge.
  • Page 524 Tighten the sensor securing screw fully home every time you add or remove shims. Once the shimming is completed, tighten the sensor retaining screw to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. For the shimming, use two feeler gauges (A) of 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm. Warning Shim pack shall never exceed 3 mm.

Page 525: Left Side

  • Page 526 Refit the wheel on the motorcycle (Refitting the front wheel).
  • Page 527 Overhauling the front brake components Important The brake callipers manufacturer advises against servicing the brake callipers due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety. Operations should be limited to replacement of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly. The brake disc must be clean, without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
  • Page 528 Removing the brake discs Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both parts must be replaced together as a pair. Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
  • Page 529 Removing the front brake system Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid). Remove the front brake master cylinder (Removing the hydraulic front brake master cylinder). Loosen the screws (1) and remove the protection (2). Undo the screw (3) and slide the front brake hose (4) from the hose grommet (5) on the bottom yoke.
  • Page 530 Undo the special screws (8) and (9) from both callipers and collect the seals (10). Remove the front brake callipers from hoses (4) and (11).
  • Page 531 Loosen the two retaining screws (12) securing the left front brake calliper (13) to the fork leg. Repeat the operation for the right brake calliper (14).

Page 533: Maintenance Operations

  • Page 534 Refitting the front brake master cylinder Reposition the front brake master cylinder assembly (3) on the handlebar by inserting pin (B) in the relevant seat (C) of the handlebar. Position U-bolt (6) on the handlebar by starting the screws (5) as shown in the figure. Tighten the fastening screws (5) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ±...
  • Page 535 Connect the front brake switch connector (A) to the main wiring harness. Position the hose (4) and sealing washers (2) on the master cylinder unit (3) and secure with the special screw (1), without tightening. Tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 536 Warning An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts. For the positioning of the hose (4) and retaining ties, see Section "Routing wiring/hoses". Refit the RH switch. Refit the rear-view mirrors (Refitting the rear-view mirrors). Fill in the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
  • Page 537 Removing the front brake master cylinder Warning The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
  • Page 538 Undo the screws (5) securing the U-bolt (6), and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly from the handlebar.
  • Page 539 Refitting the rear brake calliper If the brake lines (2) are replaced or if one of the rear brake system components has been removed, make sure that the hose unions on the master cylinder and the calliper are correctly positioned. Warning If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts.
  • Page 540 Tighten securing screw (7) fully home on sensor (6) every time you add or remove shims. Once the shimming is completed, tighten the sensor retaining screw to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. For the shimming, use two feeler gauges (A) of 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm.
  • Page 541 Warning Shim pack shall never exceed 3 mm. Note Perform the test in three points of the phonic wheel, at a distance of 120° one from the other.
  • Page 542 Refitting the front brake disc Position disc (2) on the flange and fix it with screws (1) after applying the indicated threadlocker. Position the phonic wheel (4), apply the indicated threadlocker and fix using screws (3). Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).
  • Page 543 Removing the rear disc. Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Remove the rear wheel shaft (Removing the rear wheel shaft and hub). Loosen screws (3) of phonic wheel (4) and remove it. Loosen the retaining screws (1) and remove disc (2).
  • Page 544 Removing the rear brake calliper Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Important The brake calliper manufacturer advises against servicing the brake calliper or master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Before removing the concerned parts, you must first carry out the following operations: Drain the rear braking circuit (Changing the rear brake system...
  • Page 545 Refitting the rear brake control Make sure that bushing (10) is set in the relevant seat of the rear brake lever (7). Bushing (10) must be at the same distance from the external edges of rear brake lever seat (7). Apply the indicated grease on the inner surface of the bush (10) and threadlocker on the shaft (6).
  • Page 547 Reconnect the hose (14), locating the seals (15) on both sides of the hose end union, and secure it with the special screw (12) and securing hose (16) with hose clip (13). Tighten the special screw (12) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%. Note Pay particular attention to the hose routing and hose coupling on the rear brake master cylinder.
  • Page 548 Refit the rear brake control (7) and the bracket (5) that retains the rear stop light (1).
  • Page 549 Apply the recommended threadlocker on the screws (2). Position the rear brake master cylinder (3) on the vehicle inserting the retaining screws (2). Insert the rod (4) inside the master cylinder (3), after applying the recommended grease. Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Connect rear stop switch (1) to main wiring.
  • Page 550 Fill the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
  • Page 551 Disassembling the rear brake control The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced. If the bush (10) inside the brake pedal (7) needs to be replaced, grease the external surface and fit the new bush using a press to insert it.
  • Page 552 Removing the rear brake control Warning The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
  • Page 553 Undo pin (6) securing the brake lever (7), collecting spring (8).
  • Page 554 Slide out the brake lever (7) and collect pin (6), bushing (11) and O-rings (9).
  • Page 555 Undo the special screw (12) from master cylinder (3) by removing the hose clip (13); slide out hose (14), collecting the seals (15) and hose (16). Remove rear brake master cylinder (3) from vehicle.
  • Page 556 ABS system deactivation ABS (Antilock Braking System) intervention can be customised and possibly disabled. To set and disable the ABS, refer to "ABS system operation information".
  • Page 557 The MULTISTRADA 1200 Model Year 15 is the first Ducati bike compliant with the EURO 4 emission standard. Please be reminded that the presence of any actual errors may have to be acknowledged by starting the engine.
  • Page 558 unit memory, indicating if errors are stored or current. A new error status is available and indicated with a red dot and the message [waiting for acknowledgement]; these errors are still active and so the MIL light is OFF and will be turned ON upon engine start.
  • Page 559 C1072 Rear USV valve fault Rear USV valve fault C1331 ABS pressure to front calliper sensor fault Hardware fault C1332 ABS pressure to front calliper sensor fault Offset fault C1081 ABS pressure to front pump sensor fault Hardware fault C1082 ABS pressure to front pump sensor fault Offset fault C1087 ABS pressure to rear calliper sensor fault Hardware fault...
  • Page 560 C1078 Mismatching rear braking system pressure Mismatching rear braking system pressure C1092 IMU sensor [wrong installation] IMU sensor [wrong installation] C1094 IMU sensor [mismatching signal] IMU sensor [mismatching signal] U2927 IMU sensor [wrong signal] IMU sensor [wrong signal] U2928 IMU sensor [Timeout] IMU sensor [Timeout] U100C IMU sensor [Generic error] IMU sensor [Generic error]...

Page 561: Operating Principle

  • Page 562 Rear calliper Left front calliper Right front calliper Pressure transducer Brake system diagram. Braking without ABS. ABS 1 modulation: braking.
  • Page 563 ABS 2 modulation: pressure partial reduction on callipers. ABS 3 modulation: pressure total reduction on callipers.
  • Page 565 Routing wiring harnesses/hoses Table Position Description ABS control unit A-B-C-D-E-F Hose from front calliper to ABS control unit A-B-C-E-F Hose from front master cylinder to ABS control unit Hose from rear master cylinder to ABS control unit A-F-G-H Hose from rear calliper to ABS control unit Front RH brake calliper hose —...
  • Page 566 TABLE B...
  • Page 567 TABLE C...
  • Page 568 TABLE D...
  • Page 569 TABLE E TABLE F...
  • Page 570 TABLE G TABLE H...
  • Page 572 Refitting the ABS control unit Refit the ABS control unit (2) by tightening screw (14) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Hoses (9), (10), (11) and (12) must be secured in place using new sealing washers (13) on unions. Tighten screws (5), (6), (7) and (8) to a torque of 23 Nm ±...
  • Page 573 Important If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with fluid. Control unit must thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional system. Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 574 Removing the ABS control unit Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the tank). Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox). Disconnect ABS control unit (2) connector (1), lift unit from the vehicle. Loosen the special screws (5), (6), (7) and (8) that retain hoses (9), (10), (11) and (12), and remove seals (13). Warning Whenever removed, seals must be replaced by new ones on refitting.
  • Page 575 Loosen screw (4) and remove the ABS control unit (2). Important Do not open the ABS control unit: if faulty, replace it. Should it be necessary to replace one or several hoses, refer to "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
  • Page 576 Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Remove the rider seat (Removing the seat). Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard). Disconnect connector (1) of rear ABS sensor (2) from main wiring. Open all the ties that retain the rear ABS sensor cable (2).
  • Page 577 Undo the screws (7) and remove the rear swinging arm cable cover (6). Remove the ties. Loosen screw (8) and remove the speed sensor (2). Collect the calibrated seal (9).
  • Page 578 Check air gap between the new rear ABS sensor and the rear phonic wheel as explained under: "Adjusting the AIR- GAP of phonic wheel sensor". REFITTING THE REAR PHONIC WHEEL SENSOR Fasten the sensor to the calliper holder plate by tightening screw (8) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%. Reposition the speed sensor cable (2) as described in chapter "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
  • Page 579 Connect the connector (1).
  • Page 580 Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard). Refit the rider seat (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 581 Changing the front phonic wheel sensor Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. Remove the panel (Removing the panel). Remove the front half-casing (Removing the front half-casing). Disconnect front ABS sensor (1) connector (A) from main wiring. Undo the retaining screw (2), and remove front ABS sensor (1) with calibrated gasket (3), sliding cable out from cable grommet (4).
  • Page 582 AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor.". Tighten screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%. Connect the connector (A) to main wiring. Refit all the ties that retain the front ABS sensor cable (1). Refit the front half-casing (Refitting the front half-casing).
  • Page 583 Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system If brake controls feel "spongy" due to the presence of air bubbles in the system, bleed as usual, as described in Section "Changing the front brake system fluid" and "Changing the rear brake system fluid". Before bleeding a brake master cylinder, move back the calliper pistons to let any air build-up in the ABS control unit flow into the master cylinder.
  • Page 585 Important Do not undo the special screws securing the pipe unions on the ABS hydraulic control unit, unless control unit replacement is necessary. Important If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with fluid.
  • Page 586 Connect the DDS 2.0 and start the first stage of the activation function that opens the front outlet valve (AV) for 5 seconds. During this time, open and close repeatedly the bleed valve (A) of the front calliper. ABS circuit rear part (AV) Prepare to open the bleed valve (A) on the rear calliper.
  • Page 587 Use the DDS 2.0 to start the third stage of the activation function to open the rear outlet valves (AV) and (HSV) with activation of the ABS pump. During this time, open and close repeatedly the bleed valve (A) of the rear calliper.
  • Page 588 Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor Warning The following procedure applies to both vehicle versions. (For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees: replacement or refitting of the wheel; replacement or refitting of the phonic wheel (1) or (2); replacement or refitting of the brake discs;...
  • Page 589 FRONT Tighten securing screw (2) fully home on sensor (1) every time you add or remove shims. REAR Tighten securing screw (7) fully home on sensor (6) every time you add or remove shims.
  • Page 590 Once the shimming is completed, tighten the sensor retaining screw to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. For the shimming, use two feeler gauges (A) of 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm. Warning Shim pack shall never exceed 3 mm. Note Perform the test in three points of the phonic wheel, at a distance of 120°...
  • Page 592 Refitting the handlebar Apply the recommended grease to the underside of the screws (13). Insert the screws (13) on the lower U-bolt (14). Fit the toothed washers (15). Apply the recommended threadlocker on the thread in view of screws (13). Refit the lower U-bolt (14) and start screws (13).
  • Page 593 Smear screws (10) with specified grease. Refit the upper U-bolt (11) and insert the screws (10). Tighten screws (10) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-3-4-3 sequence, as shown. Refitting the switches Following is the procedure to refit the LH switch. The same procedure applies also to the RH switch. Position support (3) by inserting the pin in the hole on handlebar (12).
  • Page 594 Fit switch (2) fully home on support (3). Check that the switch is actually blocked.
  • Page 595 Reconnect the connector. Refitting the heated handgrips LH HANDGRIP Connect connector (7) to the main wiring located in the connector support (B).
  • Page 596 Tighten screws (9) to a torque of 2.8 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 597 RH HANDGRIP For the RH handgrip, refer to chapter "Refitting the throttle control". Connect connector (7) located on support (B).
  • Page 598 Refit the front brake control (Refitting the front brake master cylinder). Refit the clutch hydraulic control (Refitting the clutch hydraulic control). Refit the hand guards (Refitting the hand guards).

Page 599: Heated Handgrips

  • Page 600 Remove the two protection plugs (8) and loosen the two retaining screws (9). Slide the heated handgrip out of the handlebar.
  • Page 601 RH HANDGRIP The "heating" system of the RH handgrip is integrated in the throttle control. Disconnect connector (7) located on the vehicle right side in support (B).
  • Page 602 Continue the procedure as described in chapter "Removing the throttle control". Removing the switches To remove the switches it is necessary to use tool no. 88713.4967. Following is the procedure to remove the LH switch. The same procedure applies also to the RH switch. Remove the connector from the switch.
  • Page 603 Insert tool (A) inside seat (1) of switch (2). Push tool (A) until releasing switch (2).
  • Page 604 Collect support (3). Remove the switch (2). Removing the handlebar Undo and remove the screws (10) securing the upper U-bolt (11). Remove the upper U-bolt (11) that retains the handlebar. Remove the handlebar (12) from its seat on the steering head.
  • Page 605 Remove the steering head (Removing the steering tube components). Undo the screws (13), remove the lower U-bolt (14) and recover washers (15).
  • Page 607 Reassembling the hand guards The following procedure is the same for both hand guards. Position the hand guard. Tighten the two screws (4) of support (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Fix the hand guard by tightening screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Connect the connector (3).
  • Page 609 Removing the hand guards The following procedure is the same for both hand guards. Undo screws (2) of the hand guard (1). Disconnect the connector (3). Loosen the two screws (4) of support (5). Remove the hand guard.
  • Page 611 Refitting the rear-view mirrors Start screw (3) in the rear-view mirror (2). Insert the rear-view mirror (2) in the U-bolt. Tighten the screw (3) to a torque of 40 Nm ± 10%. Insert plug (1). Important Pay attention to the different threading: the left rear-view mirror has a left threading.
  • Page 612 Removing the rear-view mirrors Remove plug (1) from the rear-view mirror (2). Undo screw (3) and remove the rear-view mirror. Repeat the described operations for the other mirror. Important Pay attention to the different threading: the left rear-view mirror has a left threading.
  • Page 613 Refitting the throttle control Position the throttle control on the handlebar by inserting the reference pin in the relevant seat. Assemble the two parts of the throttle control. Tighten screws (4) to a torque of 4.5 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 614 Connect the throttle control cable (3) to the switch.
  • Page 615 Position the hand guard (1) by tightening screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 616 Removing the throttle control Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings). Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Move hand guard (1) by loosening screw (2). Disconnect the throttle control cable (3) from the main wiring harness. Loosen the screws (4) and remove the throttle control (5) from the handlebar.
  • Page 618 Refitting the clutch slave cylinder If the clutch pushrod (7) must be replaced, it is necessary to replace also the two O-rings (8). Lubricate with the indicated product and reposition the clutch pushrod (7) with the two O-rings (8). Position the anti-rotation pin (10) so as to align it with holes (A) as shown in the figure. Fit seals (13) on the anti-rotation insert (12).
  • Page 619 Fit the anti-rotation insert (12) into clutch slave cylinder (14), making sure to match part (B) of insert (12) with slot (C) on the actuator.
  • Page 620 Insert clutch slave cylinder (14), including anti-rotation insert (12), on clutch pushrod (7) already positioned. The anti-rotation pin (10) must engage into the corresponding slots (D) on anti-rotation insert (14).
  • Page 621 Fix the clutch slave cylinder (2) by starting screws (1). Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, by in the 1 - 2 - 3 - 1 sequence. Note To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and tighten the retaining screws alternatively in steps.
  • Page 622 Removing the clutch slave cylinder Warning The clutch slave cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the slave cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. The replacement operations that can be performed on the slave cylinder regard the bleeding unit, the seal and the complete piston.
  • Page 623 Now it is possible to slide out clutch pushrod (7). Check the condition of the two O-rings (8) and replace them if necessary. Refitting the clutch slave cylinder If the clutch pushrod (7) must be replaced, it is necessary to replace also the two O-rings (8). Lubricate with the indicated product and reposition the clutch pushrod (7) with the two O-rings (8).
  • Page 624 Position the anti-rotation pin (10) so as to align it with holes (A) as shown in the figure. Fit seals (13) on the anti-rotation insert (12). Apply the recommended grease to the seal (13).
  • Page 625 Fit the anti-rotation insert (12) into clutch slave cylinder (14), making sure to match part (B) of insert (12) with slot (C) on the actuator.
  • Page 626 Insert clutch slave cylinder (14), including anti-rotation insert (12), on clutch pushrod (11) already positioned. The anti-rotation pin (10) must engage into the corresponding slots (D) on anti-rotation insert (14). In the picture below the rod is not in the correct position, yet.
  • Page 627 Fix the clutch slave cylinder (2) by starting screws (1). Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, by in the 1 - 2 - 3 - 1 sequence. Note To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and tighten the retaining screws alternatively in steps.
  • Page 628 Component (A) Component (B)
  • Page 630 Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly Fit the clutch master cylinder assembly (3) on the LH handlebar by inserting centring pin (A) in hole (B) of the clutch master cylinder control. Couple clamp (6) with the clutch master cylinder control and fix them with screws (5). Tighten the fastening screws (5) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ±...
  • Page 631 Position the hose (4) and sealing washers (2) on the master cylinder unit (3) and secure with the special screw (1), without tightening. Warning An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts. For the positioning of the clutch hose (4) and retaining clips, refer to "Refitting the clutch slave cylinder".
  • Page 633 Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly Warning The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
  • Page 635 Refitting the Hands Free For reassembling, follow the removal procedure in the reverse order. In particular, apply specified threadlocker to screws (2) and tighten them to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10%. To position the wiring, refer to Section "Routing of wiring on frame".
  • Page 636 Removing Hands Free Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Disconnect the Hands-free system wiring (A) from the main wiring. If the electronic tank plug kit is installed, it will be necessary to disconnect the tank plug wiring (B). Remove the clamp shown in the picture.
  • Page 638 Refitting the gear change control Apply the indicated threadlocker on shaft (1). Install O-ring (3) onto shaft (1). Insert the shaft (1) in the gear lever (2), and insert the other O-ring (3) and the washer (4). Fit the gear lever (1) on the footpeg plate by inserting and tightening the shaft (1) to the specified torque of 23 Nm ±10%.
  • Page 639 Fit the gear change unit inserting the lever (7) on the gear control pin, apply threadlocker on the screw (6) and insert it on the lever (7). Tighten screw (6) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
  • Page 640 Disassembling the gear change control If the bush (5) inside the pedal (2) needs replacing, grease the external surface and drive the new bush into place using a press. The bush must be seated 2 mm below the outer face of the pedal. Warning After working on the gear change control, check the position of the gear pedal.
  • Page 641 Removing the gear change control Loosen and remove the pin (1) securing the gear pedal (2), and collect the O-rings (3), the washer (4) and bush (5). Undo and remove the screw (6) securing the gear lever (7) to the gearbox shaft. Remove the lever (7) complete with the gear control assembly.
  • Page 642 Note Mark the position of lever with respect to the gear selector shaft. To remove lever (7) from gear transmission rod assembly (8), loosen screw (9) then slide out lever (7).
  • Page 643 Refitting the front fork Refit the fork legs setting them at the indicated height to the bottom yoke. S Version Warning The difference in height between the two fork legs must be no greater than 0.1 mm. Position fork legs (5) and (6) on bottom yoke (4) and steering head (3). Fasten fork legs by tightening screws (1) to 10 Nm ±5% and screws (2) to 16 Nm ±5% retaining bottom yoke (4) and steering head (3): tighten screws (2) in a 1-2-1 sequence starting from the top.
  • Page 644 Refit any parts removed from the frame. Refit the front mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard). Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel). Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the front half-fairing). Refit the front brake callipers (Refitting the front brake system).
  • Page 645 Overhauling the front fork Removing the RH leg Lock with a vice the fork leg on outer sleeve (1A) using tool no. 88713.4302. Release the spring preload by rotating the adjustment nut counter clockwise. Warning Write down the number of performed rotations so as to tighten the nut by the same number of rotations upon reassembly.
  • Page 646 Loosen the upper plug (3A) while holding lock nut (2A) with a wrench. Slide the following components out of the outer sleeve (1A) in the following sequence: upper plug (3A); spring preload tube (4); washer (5); washer (6); spring (8A).
  • Page 648 Put the fork leg upside down to let oil flow out. Work several times on the damper rod (7) to let the oil completely flow out. Warning With this movement, the fluid is pressurised and drained out of the fork leg. Aim the fluid inside a vessel and avoid contact.
  • Page 649 Removing the LH leg Lock with a vice the fork leg on outer sleeve (1) using tool no. 88713.4302. Loosen the screw (9) fastening top cover (10) on upper plug (3). Slide the upper cover (10) and rubber block (11) out of the fork cable.
  • Page 650 Loosen the fork top plug (3B) using tool no. 88713.4303. Loosen the upper plug (3B) while holding lock nut (2B) with a wrench.
  • Page 651 Loosen ring nut (12) while holding with tool no. 88713.4303 the plug upper part. Loosen the lower part (13) of the plug from its upper part (14) while holding with tool no. 88713.4303 the plug upper part.
  • Page 652 Slide out the plug upper part (14) from the bottom part (13). Loosen ring nut (12) from the plug bottom part (13) and slide it out. Slide out spring (8B) from outer sleeve (1B).
  • Page 653 Put the fork leg upside down to let oil flow out. Work several times on the damper rod (7) to let the oil completely flow out. Warning With this movement, the fluid is pressurised and drained out of the fork leg. Aim the fluid inside a vessel and avoid contact.
  • Page 654 Replacing the oil seals and dust seals Block in a vice the fork leg on the bottom end and slide out spring (15) that retains the dust seal and the latter (16). Warning During this operation pay attention not to damage the outer sleeve edge.
  • Page 655 Remove the circlip (17). Slide out fork leg (19) from fork leg (1).
  • Page 656 Remove the oil seal (18) from leg (19). Fit the new oil seal (20) and dust seal (21) on fork leg (19) and fit the outer sleeve (1) in the fork leg (19).
  • Page 657 Fix the new oil seal (21) to the outer sleeve using tool no. 88713.3204. Fit the circlip (17), fix the new dust seal (20) to the outer sleeve using tool no. 88713.3204. Refit the spring (15) that retains the dust seal. Important Lubricate the sliding edges with grease for seals or fork fluid during the refitting procedure.
  • Page 659 Refitting the right fork Fill in the fork by positioning it vertically and pouring oil OJ RACING SPECIAL FORK Sae 3.6 at 100 - 14.4 at 40°, quantity 660 cc ± 5 cc for the RH leg; Attention The amount of fluid affects the behaviour of the fork at the end of its compression travel. A high fluid level increases the compression load, a low level decreases it.
  • Page 660 Insert the preload tube (4) paying attention to keep the damper rod (7) as lifted as possible to fit a wrench on the nut. Insert the upper plug (3A).
  • Page 661 Tighten the upper plug (3A) on the damper rod while holding lock nut (2A) with a wrench.
  • Page 662 Tighten the top plug to the outer sleeve using tool no. 88713.4303 to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%. Restore the spring preload by rotating the adjustment nut clockwise. Important Repeat the number of rotations performed during the disassembly procedure.
  • Page 663 Refitting the left fork Fill in the fork by positioning it vertically and pouring oil OJ RACING SPECIAL FORK Sae 3.6 at 100° at 40° 14.4, quantity 239 cc ± 5 cc for the left leg. Attention The amount of fluid affects the behaviour of the fork at the end of its compression travel. A high fluid level increases the compression load, a low level decreases it.
  • Page 665 Screw the lower part (13) of the plug fully on its upper part (14) while holding with tool no. 88713.4303 the upper part. Screw ring nut (12) to the plug bottom part (13), bringing the ring nut fully home on the upper part (14). Hold with tool no.
  • Page 666 Tighten the upper plug (3B) on the damper rod while holding lock nut (2B) with a wrench. Tighten the top plug (3B) to the outer sleeve (1B) using tool no. 88713.4303 to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 667 Fit the upper cover (10) and rubber block (11) by routing the cable inside the components. Tighten the screw (9) fastening top cover (10) on upper plug (3B).
  • Page 669 Removing the front fork Before removing this part, it is first necessary to remove the following parts: Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system). Remove the front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard). Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
  • Page 670 Refitting the steering tube components Important The steering tube bearings are identical but in no case may their components be swapped during refitting. Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease. To fit the outer rings (8) of bearings (6) to the steering tube, use tool (D) no. 88713.1062; Proceed as follows: heat the steering tube to 150 °C;...
  • Page 672 Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame. Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to the upper outer ring (8) of the frame. Fit the inner ring (A) of the upper bearing (6) to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing upwards.
  • Page 673 Fit the steering head (2) on the ring nut (3), aligning the fork leg seats with the corresponding seats on the bottom yoke. Refit the fork legs. Apply recommended grease to the screw (1). Tighten screw (1) on steering head to a torque of 18 Nm ±5%. If previously removed, position splash guard (13) onto bottom yoke (7), and secure it in place by starting screws (14) with the specified threadlocker, then tighten them to a torque of 3 Nm ±...
  • Page 674 Refit the front brake callipers (Refitting the front brake system). Fill the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
  • Page 675 Removing the steering tube components Drain the braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid). Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system). Remove fork legs (Removing the front fork). Warning All parts fitted to the steering head and bottom yoke, including wiring and hoses, can remain on the motorcycle provided they do not hinder the following operations.
  • Page 676 Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing (6). The inner ring (A) of the lower bearing (6) and the sealing ring (5) will remain on the steering shaft. Using a universal puller (see figure), remove the inner ring (A) from the steering shaft, taking care not to damage the seat.
  • Page 678 Steering angle adjustment Loosen the nuts (2). Screw or loosen dowel (1) so as to respect value X: 6÷ 6.5 mm. Keep dowel (1) and screw nut (2) fully home.
  • Page 679 Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance Adjust steering bearing clearance as explained under Section "Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance". If the problems found are not solved, check the wear of steering bearings (1) and replace them, if necessary, as described in paragraph "Removing the steering tube components".
  • Page 680 Refitting the rear suspension Reposition the preload tube (2) and fix it with bracket (1). Reconnect the connectors (3) and (4).
  • Page 681 Apply recommended grease on thread and underside of top screw (5) and bottom screw (6). Fit the shock absorber bottom end into the rear swinging arm and tighten screw (6); fit shock absorber top end to rear subframe and tighten screw (5). Tighten screws (5) and (6) to a torque of 42 Nm ±...
  • Page 682 Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard). Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel). Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer). Refit the rear LH side body panel (Refitting the side body panels and the tail guard). Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 683 Overhauling the rear shock absorber Important For any problem concerning the shock absorber operation, contact a SACHS authorised service centre.
  • Page 684 Removing the rear shock absorber Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the rear LH side body panel (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard). Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the silencer). Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel).
  • Page 685 To remove the rear shock absorber from the vehicle, undo the upper (5) screw and the lower screw (6). Then slide the rear shock absorber out with the electronic preload tube.
  • Page 687 Rear suspension system The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock absorber that is completely adjustable. The shock absorber can be adjusted both in rebound by means of adjuster (1) and in compression by means of adjuster (2) located under plug (3). It is possible to adjust the spring preload through knob (4).
  • Page 689 Refitting the rear swinging arm Chain sliding shoe Fit chain sliding shoe (13) on swinging arm (9). Apply the indicated threadlocker on screw (12) and tighten it to 5 Nm ± 10%. Chain guard Apply indicated threadlocker on screws (10), position chain guard (11) and fix it by tightening screws (10) to a torque of 5 Nm ±...
  • Page 690 Lower chain sliding shoe Fit the lower sliding shoe (8) on swinging arm (9) as shown in the figure. Apply threadlocker on the three screws (7) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Check the bearing (14) movement: they must move freely without faulty frictions or noise. If they have to be replaced, proceed as follows: use a suitable puller to remove the external seal ring (15) of bearings (14), the internal seal ring (15) and snap ring (16).
  • Page 691 Fit a new snap ring (16) using a suitable drift. Using the same tool insert the snap ring set (15) of bearings (14). Lubricate the bearings (14) on both sides using the indicated product. Lubricate the swingarm shaft with the specified product. Calculate the allowed end float of the swinging arm (Overhauling the swinging arm).
  • Page 693 Position the rear brake hose and the rear speed sensor cable on the swinging arm by starting screw (1) of cable ring (2) after applying the specified threadlocker. Refit the upper hose grommet (4) and start screw (3) after applying the recommended threadlocker. Tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% and screw (3) to a torque of 8 Nm ±...
  • Page 694 Overhauling the rear swinging arm Select the shim (6) size upon swinging arm refitting. To check the end float, proceed as follows: fit shim (6), 1.8 thick on engine both sides and insert the swingarm shaft; set the left side of the swinging arm on the engine and use a feeler gauge or calibrated to check the play on the engine opposite side, value (X).
  • Page 695 Warning The maximum swinging arm rear end play is within 1 mm.
  • Page 696 Inspecting the swinging arm shaft Before refitting the swinging arm shaft (14), check it carefully for distortion. Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure distortion using a feeler gauge (Rear wheel).
  • Page 697 Removing the swinging arm Before removing the concerned parts, you must first carry out the following operations: Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the silencer). Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Remove the rear sprocket (Replacing the rear sprocket). Remove the chain.
  • Page 698 Using tool no. 88713.1074, fully extract the swinging arm shaft. Pay attention to the two spacers (6): upon reassembly it will be necessary to calculate the end float (Overhauling the swinging arm). Remove the swinging arm.
  • Page 699 Lower chain sliding shoe Undo the screws (7) to remove the lower chain sliding shoe (8) from the swinging arm (9).
  • Page 700 Chain guard Undo the screws (10) to remove the chain guard (11) from the swinging arm (9).
  • Page 702 Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft Refitting is the reverse of removal, with attention to the following points. If the calliper bracket locating pin (10) was removed, apply the recommended threadlocker upon reassembly. Tighten shaft (10) to a torque of 33 Nm ± 5%. Before refitting, apply recommended grease on the eccentric hub (9).
  • Page 703 Apply recommended grease on seals (8) and position them in the seat of plate (7). Fit plate (7) to swinging arm: pin (10) must be engaged in the plate (7). Refit the other washer (6). Fit the circlip (5) with the sharp edge facing out.
  • Page 704 Make sure that the eccentric hub (9) position to swinging arm (11) is with the horizontal axis (D) of the hub hole (B) below the horizontal axis (C) of the hub seat. Apply an even coating of the recommended grease in the areas (A) of the shaft (3).
  • Page 705 Insert the rear wheel shaft (3) in the hub. Ensure the wheel shaft (3) is seated in the hub. Fit the inner ring (2) on the wheel shaft (3). Insert the inner ring (2) in the hub. Apply recommended grease to screws (A) and tighten to 35 Nm ±5% in the 1-2-1 sequence.
  • Page 706 Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper). Refit the rear sprocket (Refitting the rear sprocket). Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel). Refit the exhaust silencers (Refitting the silencer). Tension the chain as described in "Adjusting the chain tension".
  • Page 707 Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft Before removing the concerned parts, you must first carry out the following operations: Remove the exhaust silencers (Removing the silencer). Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Remove the rear sprocket (Replacing the rear sprocket).
  • Page 708 Remove the circlip (5) on the wheel side of the eccentric hub. Remove the washer (6) and the calliper mounting bracket (7) with the O-rings (8).
  • Page 709 Remove the second washer (6). Slide out the eccentric hub (9) from swinging arm chain side.
  • Page 710 Warning The rear hub is very important for vehicle dynamic safety; it is available as a single spare part since you must not service its internal parts.
  • Page 711 Lubricating the chain O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes. However, these chains need to be lubricated at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O- rings. Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency. Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside and outside.
  • Page 712 Washing the chain Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin. Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
  • Page 713 Refitting the rear sprocket Check the cush drive dampers (7) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the flange. Apply the recommended grease to the outer diameter of rear sprocket holder flange (4). Fit rear sprocket flange (4) onto rear sprocket (5), engaging cush drive damper pins (7). Apply recommended threadlocker to the nut thread (8).
  • Page 714 Replacing the rear sprocket Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension). Remove the exhaust silencers (Removing the exhaust system). Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Restrain wheel shaft against rotation. Remove the circlip (1). Using a suitable socket wrench, loosen nut (2). Fully unscrew the nut (2) and remove the washer (3) and the flange (4) with the sprocket (5).
  • Page 715 Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (4) with the cush drive damper (7) off the rear sprocket (5).
  • Page 716 Refitting the front sprocket Refit the ring (8) (Closing the crankcase halves). Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6). Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the bearing.
  • Page 717 Fit the chain and close it using the tool (X) no. 88713.1344, which was used to open the chain. The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and a plate holder (F). Connect the two ends of the chain with the external link, and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
  • Page 718 Warning Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure. Tension the chain (Adjustment of chain tension). Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (2). Fit the sprocket cover (1) and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10%.
  • Page 720 Removing the front sprocket Undo the screws (2), and remove the chain cover (1). Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension). To loosen nut (3) it is necessary to fold the lockwasher (4) edge. Engage the first gear. Loosen nut (3) and the lockwasher. Remove the chain.
  • Page 721 Fit the hexagon wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and the wrench (E) onto the bolt. Turn clockwise the bolt (F) until the pin comes out. Remove the chain. Engage a low gear and unscrew the nut (3). Remove the nut (3) and the lockwasher (4) on the sprocket.
  • Page 722 Remove the spacer (6) with O-ring (7) and washer (8) from the gearbox secondary shaft. Important The O-ring must be renewed upon removal.
  • Page 723 Inspection of the final drive To check the final drive wear, visually check the front sprocket (1) and the rear sprocket (2). If the teeth are worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the final drive must be replaced. Important Make sure that the rear sprocket, front sprocket and chain are all replaced together as a set.
  • Page 724 Refitting the footpegs Refitting the front footpegs Note The refitting of the front RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same procedure. Position spring (4) so that the end (A) rests on the footpeg (3). Position footpeg (3) inserting the end (C) of spring (4) in the hole (D) of the frame plate.
  • Page 725 Refitting the rear footpegs Note Refitting of the rear RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same procedure. Insert spring stopper (12) into the hole (A) of the rear footpeg holder plate (6) as shown. If necessary, smear pin (B) retaining spring (12) with recommended grease in order to keep it in the correct position.
  • Page 727 Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (5). Position passenger rear footpeg holder plate (6) on frame and tighten screws (5) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10 %.
  • Page 728 Removing the footpegs Removing the front footpegs Remove the circlip (1) thereby releasing the pin (2). Slide out pin (2), while supporting the footpeg (3). Slide out footpeg (3) from its seat and collect spring (4). Removing the rear footpegs Note Removing of the rear RH footpeg is described in detail;...
  • Page 729 If necessary, remove the rubber cap (7). Remove the circlip (8) thereby releasing the pin (9). Slide out pin (9) from footpeg holder plate (6), holding the footpeg (3) and making sure that the ball (11) and the spring (10) are not released. Slide out footpeg (3) from its seat and collect spring (10) and ball (11).
  • Page 730 Refitting the centre stand Insert pins (3) from both the left and the right side. Tighten the two pins to a torque of 50 Nm ± 10%. The picture shows only the left pin. Connect the spring (1) to the stand (2).
  • Page 731 Removing the centre stand Release the spring (1) of the central stand (2). Loosen pins (3) on both sides. Remove the stand. The picture shows only the left pin.
  • Page 732 Refitting the side stand Reassembling the side stand Insert the duly lubricated side stand (8) and fit it to the plate (3). Secure it with the pin (7) and the nut (9). Tighten nut (9) to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%. Position the side stand return springs (5) and (6) and attach them to fasteners (B) and (C) on bracket and stand.
  • Page 733 Connect the side stand switch connector (A) to the main wiring.
  • Page 735 Removing the side stand Disconnect connector (A) of the stand switch (1) from the main wiring. Undo the two fastening screws (2) of the side stand support plate (3) to the engine and remove the complete side stand.
  • Page 736 Disassembling the side stand Undo the retaining screw (4) and remove the side stand switch (1). Release stand return springs (5) and (6) disengaging them from retainers (B) and (C). Unscrew the pin (7) securing the side stand to the bracket and remove side stand (8) and nut (9).
  • Page 737 Inspecting the side stand Fit the side stand to the plate and check that there is no excessive clearance. Ensure that the ends of the side stand are not bent with respect to the shank. A side stand which shows signs of cracking must be replaced immediately. Check switch (1) operation.
  • Page 738 Refitting the light assembly Position the light assembly support (1) onto steering tube, and lock it in place by starting screws (5). Tighten screws (5) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%. Lay wiring front branch on headlight support (1), and position cable ring. Secure wiring in place using clamps (4).
  • Page 739 Refit the side panels (Refitting the panel).
  • Page 740 Refitting the side plates Before reassembling, loosen all frame retaining screws. Then, proceed with the reassembling following the screw tightening sequence indicated in chapter "Refitting the structural parts and frame". Then fix the rear grab handle (Refitting the side body panels and the tail guard).
  • Page 741 Refitting the structural parts and frame Check that on frame (1) there are clips (2), elements (3) and adjusters (4).

Page 742: Position Description

  • Page 743 Shock absorber bracket retaining side screw 25 Nm ± 10% GREASE B Rear shock absorber lower retaining screw 42 Nm ± 10% GREASE B on thread and underhead Rear shock absorber upper retaining screw 42 Nm ± 10% GREASE B Shock absorber bracket retaining front 25 Nm ±...
  • Page 744 Apply three drops of adhesive in the RH and LH plugs at 120° one from the other. Remember to point the arrows (B) as shown in the figure. Fit the tail guard (Refitting the tail guard).
  • Page 745 Removing the side panels Remove the seats (Removing the seat). Remove the side body panels (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard). Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the exhaust silencer). Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift). Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand).
  • Page 746 From both sides of the vehicle loosen screw (5) and the swingarm shaft plug (6). Loosen screw (7), plug (8) of the adjuster, and from the vehicle right side the two screws (9) retaining the shock absorber upper bracket. Remove the front screw (10) that retains the shock absorber upper bracket (11).
  • Page 747 Loosen ring nut (12) of the adjuster. Remove the two lateral plates (13).
  • Page 749 Removing the light assembly Remove the side panels (Removing the panel). Loosen screws (3) and remove the front headlight assembly (2) from the front headlight assembly unit (1). Remove ties (4) and release the whole wiring from the headlight support (1). Loosen screws (5) and remove the complete headlight assembly support (1).
  • Page 751 Removing structural components and frame Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, remove all the fitted superstructures, referring to the removal procedures outlined in the relevant sections of this manual. The rear subframe is a structural component of the frame. Both serve to support motorcycle superstructures and must therefore be in perfect condition.
  • Page 752 Refitting the number plate holder If previously removed, fit the number plate holder/tail light as follows. The number plate holder (5) consists of three parts: 6) number plate holder; 7) tail light; 8) number plate holder cover. Make sure that clips (9) and (10) are present on number plate holder (6). Fit the three rubber elements (11) in the number plate holder cover (8) and position the wiring (12).
  • Page 753 Fit the two turn indicators (14) and the wiring as shown in the figure: A) Left turn indicator; B) Right turn indicator; C) Number plate light; D) Tail light.
  • Page 754 Connect the tail light and fix it by means of screws (16) with washer (15). Fix the number plate holder (6) to cover (8) by means of screws (17).
  • Page 755 Fit the number plate holder plate (18) by tightening screws (19). USA version For this version, fit also cat's eye (20) with brackets (21) in the number plate holder.
  • Page 756 Insert the number plate holder assembly (5) in the rear subframe and fix it with screws (4).
  • Page 757 Connect the connector (3).
  • Page 758 Refit the ignition relay (2) and the battery (1). Refit the rider and passenger seats (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 759 Removing the number plate holder Remove the rider and passenger seats (Removing the seat). Remove the battery (1) as described in paragraph "Battery" and the starter relay (2). Release the wiring from any tie and disconnect the tail light connector (3). Loosen the four upper retaining screws (4) of the number plate holder and the two lower ones.
  • Page 760 Remove the number plate holder (5).
  • Page 762 Refitting the electric components compartment If previously removed, fit the electrical components compartment as follows. Reassembling the heat guard Position the heat guard sheet (9), insert three screws (10) and washer (11). Fit on screws (10) the plastic heat guard (12) with washer (13). Tighten the heat guard sheet (9) with plastic heat guard (12) by means of nuts (15) and washer (14).
  • Page 763 Tighten the two screws (20) securing voltage regulator (21). Fit washer (22) and tighten with nut (23).
  • Page 764 Fit the two vibration damping pads (24), block them with the two nuts (23) and washers (22). Fitting the seat lock Fit the lock in the suitable seat (25) of the electrical components compartment by engaging the lock tabs in the relevant recesses.
  • Page 765 Fit plate (26) by engaging lock tabs (A) and (B) in the recesses.
  • Page 766 Fix the lock by starting nut (27). Tighten the nut to the specified torque. Insert latch cable (28) and position its bracket (29) and fix it with screws (30).
  • Page 767 Installing the heat guard on the compartment Position the heat guard and fix to the bottom part of the electrical components compartment by means of the two screws (31). In the upper part, fix the heat guard with the two screws (32).
  • Page 768 Fitting supports and hose clips Position supports (33) and cable rings (34) and fix them with screws (35). Position the remote control switch support (36) and fix it with the screw (37). Route the latch cable as shown in the figure.
  • Page 769 Position the electrical components compartment (8) inside the rear frame. Fix the electrical components compartment (8) with screws (6) and washer (7) and with screws (4) in the bottom part.
  • Page 770 Fit the inertial platform (4). Fix it on the vibration damping pads (39) by tightening screws (38) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 771 Reposition relays (3) and the fuse boxes (2). Route the wiring as indicated in chapter "Routing the electric wirings". Tighten the two screws (1) of the lock control.
  • Page 772 Reconnect the black box after installing its support. Reconnect the starter relay. Install the battery and its mount. Refit the side body panels (Refitting the side body panels and the tail guard). Refit the rider and passenger seats (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 773 Removing the electric components compartment Remove the rider and passenger seats (Removing the seat). Remove the side body panels (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard). Remove the battery and its mount. Remove the starter relay. Disconnect the black box and remove it with its support. Remove the lock cable by loosening the two screws (1).
  • Page 774 Release the wiring from the hose guides and clamps. Loosen the two retaining lower screws (5) of the number plate holder cover. Loosen the screws (6) and collect washer (7).
  • Page 775 Remove electrical components compartment (8).
  • Page 776 Refitting the fuel tank Reposition tank (8) on the frame by fitting the two forks on support (9). Fix the tank by means of screws (7). Check for the presence of the lower (14) and upper (13) blocks and spacer (12).
  • Page 777 Reconnect the fuel pump connector (4) and hose (6). Grip and press flange (A) to insert hose (6).
  • Page 778 Reconnect the fuel level connector (3) and reposition the clips (1).
  • Page 779 Refit the tank fairings (Refitting the tank fairings). Refit the side body panels (Refitting the side body panels). Refit the seat (Refitting the seat). Positioning the fuel tank breather pipe.
  • Page 781 Positioning the fuel tank drain pipe.
  • Page 784 Positioning the fuel pipes.
  • Page 786 Refitting the fuel tank flange Make sure that pump area (A) and gasket (4) are perfectly clean. Fit gasket (4) fully home on the pump (1) as shown in the figure. Lubricate the gasket (4) with the indicated product and fit it in the fuel tank (2). Position the pump locking flange (5) on pump (1), centring notch (B) on rib (C).
  • Page 787 Fuel level sensor Insert the fuel level sensor inside the tank. Use the indicated product to lubricate the sensor gasket. Insert the sensor so that tab (5) engages into slot (6). Fit the ring nut (7) and tighten it to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 788 Insert plug (8).
  • Page 789 Removing the fuel tank flange To remove flange (1) from tank (2), loosen the retaining nuts (3). Remove flange (1) from tank (2).
  • Page 790 Before refitting, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts. Note The flange is supplied as a spare part complete with the fuel pump and pressure regulator: the entire flange assembly must be replaced in the event of malfunction. Fuel level sensor Remove the level sensor (4) by loosening the ring nut.
  • Page 791 Refitting the tank filler plug Duly grease the new sealing washer (4) and its seat on tank. Position the complete filler cap (2) paying attention to fit the two breather hoses (3) in the relevant seats. Start and tighten the six securing screws (1) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 792 Removing the tank filler plug Loosen and remove the six securing screws of the tank plug (1). Remove the complete plug (2) paying attention to recover the two breather pipes (3). Collect the seal (4).
  • Page 793 Removing the fuel tank Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings). Remove the side body panels (Removing the side body panels). The figure shows the fuel supply circuit lay-out. A) Fuel pump, immersed in the fuel and provided with filter and pressure regulator. B) Fuel delivery pipes.
  • Page 794 Disconnect connector (4) from the fuel pump (5). Remove the fuel pipe (6) and the breather pipes (10) and (11).
  • Page 796 Remove the two retaining screws (7) of tank (8). Remove tank (8) from the vehicle by sliding it out of support (9). To do this, first push it forwards and after removing the support (9) lift it vertically.

Page 798: Refitting The Throttle Body

  • Page 799 If previously removed, fit the intake funnel (32) on the throttle body (33). Fix the intake funnel (32) with the two screws (33). Check that the throttle body bearing surface is clean. Check that the two O-rings (34) on the sleeve are not worn out or damaged. Replace them if necessary.
  • Page 800 Fit the throttle body on the airbox and fix the latter with screws (24). Reconnect the connectors of injectors (12) and of the ETV motor (10) and (11). Reconnect the fuel pipe (23).
  • Page 801 Position the upper airbox (22). Start screws (21) retaining the upper airbox (22). Pay attention to the two washers (35) of the fuel pipe and cable passages. Tighten screws (21) to the specified torque.
  • Page 802 REFITTING THE AIR FILTER Position filter (20) as shown in the figure.

Page 803: Refitting The Airbox

  • Page 804 Position the horizontal MAP sensor (38) and fix it using the screw (39) with the relevant spacer. If previously removed, position the vertical MAP sensor (40) and fix it using the screw (41) with the relevant spacer. Fit the breather hose (42) and tighten clip (43).
  • Page 805 Use the indicated product to lubricate the O-ring and fit it fully home in the airbox. Insert the union hose (44) for the secondary air system actuator. Fix it with clamp (45).
  • Page 806 Position the airbox on the heads. Tighten clamp (14) that keeps the airbox against the horizontal cylinder head (15). Tighten clamp (16) that keeps the airbox against the vertical cylinder head (17).
  • Page 807 Connect the two ETV connectors (10) and (11), the injection connector (12) and the vertical map sensor (13).
  • Page 809 Engage the control unit in the pins. Connect the control unit (9). Position the main wiring on the airbox. Position wiring cover (7) and fix it by tightening the two screws (8). Connect the air sensor (6).
  • Page 811 Fit the secondary system valve (4) and fix it with the two pins (5). Connect connector (3) of the secondary air valve (4). Tighten the retaining clamp.
  • Page 813 Fit the Blow-by tank union in the airbox having care not to damage the O-ring. Tighten the two retaining screws (1) of the Blow-by tank (2).
  • Page 814 Refit the tank (Refitting the tank).
  • Page 815 Removing the airbox and throttle body Remove the fuel tank (Removing the tank). Loosen the two retaining screws (1) of the Blow-by tank (2). Remove the secondary air system union tie.
  • Page 816 Remove the secondary system valve (4) by sliding it out of the two pins (5). Disconnect the air sensor (6). Remove the wiring cover (7) by loosening the two retaining screws (8). Release the wiring from the airbox.
  • Page 818 Disconnect the control unit (9) and remove it by sliding it upwards. Disconnect the two ETV connectors (10) and (11), the injection connector (12) and the vertical and horizontal map sensor (13).
  • Page 819 Loosen clamp (14) that keeps the airbox against the horizontal cylinder head (15).
  • Page 820 Loosen clamp (16) that keeps the airbox against the vertical cylinder head (17).

Page 821: Removing The Air Filter

Page 822: removing the throttle body.

  • Page 823 Remove the upper part of the airbox (22). Disconnect the connectors of injectors (12) and of the ETV motor (10) and (11). Loosen the retaining screw to remove the injectors (23).
  • Page 824 Working on the opposite side, loosen the eight retaining screws (24) and remove the two throttle bodies (25).
  • Page 826 Refitting the secondary air system Note Remove cloth from the secondary air system duct on head cover. Warning Do not invert the positions of the covers and components of the two valves of the secondary air system. Refer to the reference notches present on the secondary air system valve cover and on head cover. If disassembled, refit secondary air system valves (10) applying the same procedure for both of them.
  • Page 827 Fit the secondary air system cover (12) on head cover, aiming it as shown, by aligning the references (A) with those on head cover and references (B) with those on valve cover (12). Start the two screws (11). Tighten the two screws (11) to a torque of 6Nm (min. 5 Nm. - max. 7 Nm).
  • Page 828 Fit the secondary air actuator (2) with the two pipes (6) and (9). Working on the vertical head, fit the retaining clamp (8) of the secondary air system pipe (9). Tighten the retaining clamp (8).
  • Page 829 Working on the horizontal head, fit the retaining clamp (5) of the secondary air system pipe (6). Tighten the retaining clamp (5). Insert the secondary air actuator (2). Fix it with clamp (4).
  • Page 830 Reconnect connector (1) of the secondary air actuator (2). Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
  • Page 831 Removing the secondary air system Remove the fuel tank (Removing the tank). Disconnect connector (1) of the secondary air actuator (2). Remove it from its support (3).
  • Page 832 Remove clamp (4) and secondary air system actuator (2). Working on the horizontal head, remove the retaining clamp (5) of the secondary air system pipe (6). Slide the secondary air system pipe (6) out of the horizontal head (7).
  • Page 833 Working on the vertical head, remove the retaining clamp (8) of the secondary air system pipe (9). Slide the secondary air system pipe (9) out of the vertical head (10). Slide out of the vehicle the secondary air actuator (2) with the two pipes (6) and (9).
  • Page 834 Disassembly If necessary, disassemble secondary air system valves (10) applying the same procedure for both heads. Loosen the two screws (11) and slide out cover (12), reed valve (13) and spark arrestor (14) in this order. Note block off the secondary air system duct on head cover with a clean cloth so as to avoid any impurities from entering the duct.
  • Page 835 Refitting the air filter Position filter (20) as shown in the figure. Position cover (18) and tighten the screws (19).
  • Page 836 Removing the air filter Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Loosen screws (19) and remove cover (18). Remove the airbox (20).
  • Page 837 Refitting the exhaust system Fit the horizontal exhaust pipe (1) on the horizontal cylinder with the gasket (15). Note The gasket convex side must be facing outwards. Tighten retaining nuts (13) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. If previously removed, tighten the horizontal lambda sensor (16) to the torque of 24.5 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 838 Fit the vertical exhaust pipe (2) on the horizontal cylinder with the gasket (15). Note The gasket convex side must be facing outwards. Tighten retaining nuts (14) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 839 If previously removed, tighten the vertical lambda sensor (17) to the torque of 24.5 Nm ± 10%. Fit catalytic converter (3) and fix it to the frame with screw (12). Tighten the screw (12) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 840 Position the retaining spring (10). Tighten clip (11) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 841 Reconnect the two lambda sensors (9) and (8).
  • Page 842 Position control cable (5) in plate (7).
  • Page 843 Turn the pulley (4) of the exhaust valve to facilitate the control cable insertion (5). Tighten retaining nut (6) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%. If previously removed, insert plugs (18), copper washers (19), start plugs in the vertical and horizontal head exhaust manifolds and tighten them to 25 Nm ±...
  • Page 844 Refit the lateral plates. Refit the exhaust silencer (Refitting the exhaust silencer). Refit the sump guard (Refitting the sump guard).
  • Page 845 Removing the exhaust system Remove the lateral plates. Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the exhaust silencer). Remove the sump guard (Removing the sump guard). The exhaust system consists of the following parts: Horizontal primary pipe Vertical primary pipe Catalytic converter. Turn the pulley (4) of the exhaust valve to facilitate the control cable exit (5).
  • Page 847 Disconnect the horizontal exhaust lambda sensor (8). Disconnect the vertical exhaust lambda sensor (9).
  • Page 848 Remove retaining spring (10) of the horizontal exhaust pipe (1).
  • Page 849 Loosen the clamp (11) retaining vertical exhaust pipe (2). Note For clarity reasons, the figure shows the engine removed from the frame. Working on the vehicle left side, loosen and remove screw (12). Slide out the catalytic converter (3) from the exhaust pipes.
  • Page 850 Working on the horizontal cylinder, loosen and remove the three retaining nuts (13). Remove the horizontal exhaust pipe (1) by recovering the gasket. Working on the vertical cylinder, loosen and remove the three retaining nuts (14). Remove the vertical exhaust pipe (2) by recovering the gasket.
  • Page 852 Refitting the silencer REASSEMBLING THE SILENCER Check that on the upper pipe cover (5) there is clip (11) Fit on silencer (7) the upper pipe cover (5) and the lower pipe cover (6). Fix the two covers by tightening screws (10) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.

Page 853: Refitting The Silencer

  • Page 854 Tighten the screw (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Tighten clip (2) to a torque of 22 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 855 Removing the silencer Remove silencer (1) by loosening clamp (2) and screw (3). DISASSEMBLING THE SILENCER The exhaust silencer consists of the following parts: 4) Central cover 5) Upper pipe cover 6) Lower pipe cover 7) Silencer.
  • Page 856 Loosen the screws (8) and (9) and remove the central cover. Loosen the screws (10) and remove the upper (5) and lower (6) pipe covers.
  • Page 858 Refitting the Canister filter Position pipe (11) on the vertical head and fix it with clip (10). Position pipe (9) on the horizontal head and fix it with clip (8).
  • Page 859 Fit canister filter (5) from the top. It must be fitted into plate (7) guides (6).
  • Page 860 Reconnect pipes (1) and (2) and fix them with clamps (3) and (4). POSITIONING THE CANISTER FILTER PIPES...
  • Page 863 REFITTING THE CANISTER FILTER SUPPORT Position the canister support (13) and fix it with the three retaining screws (12).
  • Page 865 Removing the canister filter Disconnect pipes (1) and (2) by removing clamps (3) and (4). Remove canister filter (5) by sliding it upwards on the plate (7) guides (6). Work on the horizontal head and remove clip (8) and disconnect pipe (9).
  • Page 866 Work on the vertical head and remove clip (10) and disconnect pipe (11).
  • Page 867 REMOVING THE CANISTER FILTER SUPPORT Remove the three retaining screws (12) and remove the canister support (13).
  • Page 869 Canister filter system The canister filter is a system that collects the fuel vapour released by the fuel tank. This filter is positioned along the tank breather tube and must keep the fuel vapours when the vehicle is not moving. To maintain the efficiency of the active carbons, the system is active while the engine is ON.
  • Page 870 Refitting the engine Position the engine in the frame and fix it as described in chapter "Refitting the structural parts and frame". Pay attention to the tightening sequence. Refit the swingarm shaft (Refitting the swinging arm). Refit the side stand (Refitting the side stand).
  • Page 871 Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank). Refit the sump guard unit (Refitting the belly pan). Refit the seats (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 872 Removing the engine To remove the engine follow the procedure below. Support the engine with suitable equipment. Remove the seats (Removing the seat). Remove the sump guard unit (Removing the sump guard). Remove the instrument panel internal covers (Removing the panel).
  • Page 873 Refitting the oil pump If removed, apply specific threadlocker on the bush (7) and screw it in the crankcase half, observing the value (A) of 1 mm ± 0.2%. Position the reference bushes (6) and the O-rings (4) and (5) according to the casing lubrication channels.
  • Page 874 Position the complete oil pump (3) on the casing, fit the relevant washers (A) and (B) and tighten screws (1) to 26 Nm (Min. 23 Nm - Max. 29 Nm) and screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
  • Page 875 Check the gear clearance with the front sprocket by fixing a dial gauge (A), equipped with the appropriate stylus, to the crankcase half. Position the dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and set the gauge to zero in this position. Move the gear slightly to measure the backlash;...
  • Page 876 Reassembling the oil pump Check that the spring (8) and key (6) are present on the pump. Fit the pump drive gear (7) on to the oil pump and secure it by installing the circlip (6) in its groove. Insert by-pass valve (5), spring (4) in the pump and tighten plug (3) to a torque of 17 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 19 Nm) by applying medium-strength threadlocker.
  • Page 878 Disassembling the oil pump gear Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (2). Warning Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material. Remove the plug (3) and extract the spring (4) and by-pass valve (5). Check the condition of the above components.
  • Page 880 Removing the oil pump Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the RH belly pan (Removing the belly pan). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Loosen and remove screws (1) and (2) that retain the complete pump and collect the relevant washers (A) and (B).
  • Page 882 Refitting the lubrication system Note Before fitting the hoses check the presence of O-rings and lubricate them with the indicated oil. If nipples (8) have been removed from the cooler, fit a washer (9) on each nipple (8) and apply specified threadlocker on the cooler side threads.
  • Page 883 Attach the hoses ends (5) to the cooler nipples (8) and finger-tighten the nuts (11) fully home. Tighten the nuts (11) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5% while holding the nipple hex nuts. Check the presence of vibration damping pads (12) on both sides of the cooler.
  • Page 884 Fit the oil cooler by inserting it first in the headlight support pin (B). Fit spacer (7) and screw (6) and tighten it to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 885 Position pipes (5) as shown in the figure. C) delivery D) return...
  • Page 887 Insert the pipes in the crankcase half. Position plate (4). Apply the specified threadlocker and tighten screw (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 888 If previously removed, position oil pressure switch (1) with washer (2) on the cooler and tighten sensor (1) to a torque of 19 Nm ± 10%. Connect the oil pressure switch (1) to main wiring. Fill the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
  • Page 889 Inspecting the oil cooler Visually inspect the cooler. Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks.
  • Page 890 Removing the lubrication system Remove the belly pan unit (Removing the belly pan). Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Disconnect the oil pressure switch (1) from the main wiring and remove washer (2). Undo screw (3) of plate (4) and slide the latter out.
  • Page 891 Upon disassembly, make sure not to lose the O-rings (A) that guarantee the coupling sealing.
  • Page 892 Loosen and remove screw (6) with spacer (7) that retains the radiator to the headlight support. Remove the radiator from the headlight support by sliding it out of pin (B).
  • Page 894 Refitting the oil breather reservoir Insert pipe (4) in tank (2) by matching tooth (A) inside the pipe with recess (B) of union (C). Position reservoir (2) with hose (4) in the frame. Connect the hose (4) to the blow-by and tighten clamp (3) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10%.
  • Page 895 Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox). Tighten the two screws (1) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank). Refit the seats (Refitting the seat).
  • Page 896 Removing the oil breather reservoir Remove the seats (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Loosen screws (1) of the blow-by tank (2). Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox). Loosen clamp (3) to slide hose (4) out of the blow-by.
  • Page 897 Slide the blow-by tank (2) out of the frame. To disassemble reservoir (2) from hose (4), loosen clamp (5). Separate the two parts.
  • Page 899 Refitting the water tank Insert pipe (5) with clamp (1) and pipe (2) with clamp (1) in tank (4). Note If it proves hard to fit the tubes in the relevant unions, it is recommended to use RUBBER LUBRICANT, and apply some on the unions.
  • Page 900 Position hose (2) on the radiator with clip (1) and tighten clip (1) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 901 Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the front half-fairing). Refit the half-fairings (Refitting the tank fairings). Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant). Positioning the water tank pipe - water radiator...
  • Page 903 Removing the water tank Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant). Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Remove the half-fairings (Removing the tank fairings). Loosen clamp (1) and slide hose (2) out of the radiator. Loosen the screws (3). Remove tank (4) and hoses (2) and (5).
  • Page 904 Loosen the clamps (1) to remove the hoses (2) and (5) from the tank (4).
  • Page 906 Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions If previously removed, refit valve (8) as shown in the figure, by tightening the clamps to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± Install an O-ring (17) in the seat of the vertical head union (16) and one in horizontal head union seat (13). Fix union (13) on the horizontal head with screws (12) with specified threadlocker and tighten them to a torque of 6 Nm (Min.
  • Page 907 Fix union (16) on the vertical head with screws (15) with specified threadlocker and tighten them to a torque of 6 Nm (Min. 5 Nm - Max. 7 Nm).
  • Page 908 If previously removed, fit water temperature sensor (18) on union (13) and tighten it to a torque of 23 Nm (Min. 20 - Max. 26). Working on the horizontal head, fit the canister/horn support bracket (10) and fix it with screws (11). Fit the spark plug cap (9).
  • Page 909 Position the pump pipe (2) to the vertical cylinder and tighten the two clips (6) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Position the pump pipe (1) to the horizontal cylinder and tighten the two clips (6) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Repeat the operation with the pump (5) from the water radiator to the pump.
  • Page 910 Working on the horizontal head, insert pipe (4) from the horizontal head to the radiator and tighten clip (6) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%. Tighten clip (6) with horizontal head bleed screw to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%. Position vertical head to water radiator pipe (3) and pump to water radiator pipe (1) by tightening clips (6) to a torque of 3 Nm ±...
  • Page 911 Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant). Refit the half-fairings (Refitting the tank fairings). Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the front half-fairing). Positioning hoses and clamps Position the vertical and horizontal head clamps as shown in the figure.
  • Page 914 Removing the cooling system hoses and unions The cooling system consists of the following pipes: water pump to horizontal cylinder pipe; water pump to vertical cylinder pipe; vertical head to radiator pipe; horizontal head to radiator pipe; water radiator to water pump pipe. Loosen clamps (6) retaining the water radiator (7) hose (1) to the pump and the fixing clamps of the radiator/thermostat hose (4) to the thermostat.
  • Page 915 Loosen the clamps (6) that retain the pipe (5) that goes from the radiator to the pump and clamps (6) and pipe (1) that goes from the pump to the vertical cylinder. Loosen clamps (6) retaining pipe (2) and the vertical cylinder water pump.
  • Page 916 Loosen the clamps (6) to remove the valve (8) from the pipes (3) and (4). Working on the horizontal head, remove the spark plug cylinder head (9). Undo the screws (11) and remove the horn/canister support bracket (10).
  • Page 917 Undo the screws (12) and remove the water union (13) and recover clip (14).
  • Page 918 Working on the vertical head, undo the screws (15) and remove the water union (16) and recover clip (17). Important Periodically check the connection unions for leaks. Hoses that are cracked, swollen, or hardened due to dry sleeves should be replaced.
  • Page 919 Fitting the radiator Check for the presence of vibration damping pads (10) and support (11) on the radiator brackets (4). Insert the radiator support (4) in pin (E).
  • Page 920 Start screw (5) with spacer (6) on the left and right sides. Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
  • Page 922 Reconnect the fan wiring to the main wiring (C) and (D).
  • Page 923 Insert the cooling system pipes (2) and (3) in the relevant unions on the radiator and tighten clamps (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%. Insert pipe (B) between water tank and water radiator on the inlet of the radiator plug with clamp (A) and tighten the latter to a torque of 1 Nm ±...
  • Page 924 Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant). Refit the half-fairings (Refitting the tank fairings). Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the front half-fairing).
  • Page 925 Replacing the electric fan Undo the electric fan three retaining screws (7) and remove the electric fan (8) from the radiator. Repeat the operation for the second solenoid valve (9). Upon reassembly tighten screws (7).
  • Page 926 Removing the radiator Remove the half-fairings (Removing the tank fairings). Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant). Loosen clamps (1) of water pipes (2) and (3) and slide them out of the radiator unions (4). Loosen clamp (A) that connects the water tank and the radiator and slide out pipe (B).
  • Page 927 Loosen the screws (5) with spacer (6) securing the radiator to the frame LH side. Disconnect the main wiring connections, the RH solenoid valve (C) and the LH solenoid valve (D).
  • Page 928 Remove water radiator (4) from the vehicle by disengaging it from pin (E).
  • Page 929 Inspecting the water radiator Visually inspect the cooler. Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks. Check also that the air flow through the radiator fins are not obstructed by leaves, insects, mud, etc. Important Excessive coolant temperature can be caused by a partial obstruction of the radiator fins. Carefully check the condition of the radiator fins.
  • Page 931 Refitting the water pump Use the indicated grease to lubricate the seat of the crankcase (A). Fit spacer (15) so that the chamfered edge is facing downwards. Position bearings (13) and (12) fully home. Fit the impeller shaft (6) by lubricating washer (9) and positioning it as shown in the figure. Bring the washer fully home.
  • Page 932 Warning While fitting the washer, pay attention not to pinch the rubber seal on the impeller edge. Fit counter-washer (14) fully home in the generator cover. The counter-washer must be positioned with the white side facing outwards. Fit the impeller (6) with the relevant washer.
  • Page 933 Check that the two centring bushes (5) are correctly fitted on the generator cover. Working on the opposite side, tighten the impeller (6) by means of the snap ring (7).
  • Page 934 Apply the indicated threadlocker on the screws (10). Fit the two screws (10) with the washers (11), and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Apply an even bead of sealing compound on the generator cover by respecting the shown path.
  • Page 935 Tighten the screws (1) and (2) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm), respecting the sequence shown in the figure.
  • Page 936 Pay attention to the screws as they are not all the same: screws (1) M6x32 mm screws (2) M6x30 mm If previously removed, fit plug (16) with the washer (17) and tighten it to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13.5 – Max 16.5).
  • Page 937 Removing the water pump Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Remove the half-fairings (Removing the tank fairings). Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant). Remove the cooling system hoses from the water pump cover (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
  • Page 938 Clean the pump housing from any coolant scale. Check the bearing wear by turning the impeller shaft (6); in case of excessive clearance, it is necessary to replace them as follows. Remove the snap ring (7) from the impeller shaft (9). Slide off the impeller (6) with the sealing ring (9) from the outside.
  • Page 939 Undo and remove the screws (10) with the washer (11). Working from the impeller side, use a suitable drift to press on the inner ring of end bearing (12) until it can be extracted from the cover. Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (13). Remove the inner spacer (15).
  • Page 940 Check the condition of the mechanical seal components (9) and of the counter-washer (14): there should be no signs of deformation, cracking, or excessive wear. In case of damage, both components must be replaced.
  • Page 941 Checking the engine timing Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the rear RH side body panel (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
  • Page 942 Check that the opening valve clearance is zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of suitable thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim. Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge. In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by the reading on the gauge, set the gauges (2) to zero.

Page 943: Reference Values

  • Page 944 Closing rocker arm – intake 0.05 ± 0.10 mm 0.05 ± 0.15 mm Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05 ± 0.10 mm 0.05 ± 0.15 mm Refit the components by carrying out the same operations indicated in paragraph (Checking and adjusting the valve clearance), previously described.
  • Page 945 Checking and adjusting the valve clearance Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the rear body panels (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard). Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Remove the tank fairing (Removing the tank fairings).
  • Page 946 The value must be within the prescribed ones. VALVES CLOSING CLEARANCE (mm) INTAKE 0.05 ÷ 0.10 EXHAUST 0.05 ÷ 0.10 If not, remove the closing shim (2), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
  • Page 947 camshaft lobe (B).
  • Page 948 The value must be within the prescribed ones. VALVES CLOSING CLEARANCE (mm) INTAKE 0.13 ÷ 0.18 EXHAUST 0.13 ÷ 0.18 If not, remove the opening shim (1), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
  • Page 949 Refitting the timing outer covers If previously removed, refit the actuator covers (A) on the heads. Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (4) and (5). Position the external cover (6) by starting screws (4) and (5). Tighten the screws (4) and (5) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the figure.
  • Page 950 Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (1). Position the central cover and start the screws (1). Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the figure.
  • Page 951 Note If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously removed parts.
  • Page 952 Refitting the timing belts Remove the external belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers). Remove the cylinder head covers (Removing the head covers). Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt). Working on the generator cover (1) loosen the screws (2) and remove cover (3). For better clarity, some of the following figures show the engine removed from the frame.
  • Page 953 When the timing is correct, fit tool (B) no. 88713.2011 to block the crankshaft. On the vertical head install tool (C) part no. 88765.1737. Check the variators alignment, i.e. they must be flush with the "head flat surface".
  • Page 954 Fit the belt (7) as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
  • Page 955 If previously removed, fit the chain tensioner (8), washer (9) and tighten it by means of nut (10). Do not tighten to torque.
  • Page 956 Remove tool (C) part no. 88765.1737 and fit it on the horizontal head.
  • Page 957 Check on the variators (11) that the references are aligned with the "head flat surface". Fit the belt (12) in the horizontal head as shown in the figure using a screwdriver to tension it.
  • Page 958 If previously removed, fit the chain tensioner (13), washer (14) and tighten it by means of nut (15). Do not tighten to torque.
  • Page 959 Remove the camshaft locking tool. Check the horizontal head belt tension in the indicated point (D). Tension the belt according to the values indicated in the table. Reference Assembly Value Assembly Value (new belt) (used belt) Cold belt tension adjustment DDS 2 90 ±...
  • Page 960 Rotate the crankshaft by 270° in its rotation sense so as to bring the vertical cylinder piston to the stroke TDC. Check the vertical cylinder belt tension in the indicated point (E). Tension the belt according to the values indicated in the table. Reference Assembly Value Assembly Value...
  • Page 961 Remove all the previously installed tools. Refit the cylinder head covers (Refitting the camshafts). Refit the external timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
  • Page 962 Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys Check the pulleys of the intake side "IN" and of the exhaust side "EX". Check that pins (8) are present on the camshafts (7). Take special care when positioning the pins (8). They must protrude by 4÷5 mm.
  • Page 963 Insert the pulley fully home on the camshaft by centring pin (8) in hole (C).
  • Page 964 Lubricate screws (5) with the indicated product and tighten them by respecting the following sequence: - pre-tightening to 20 Nm ± (Min. 18 - Max. 22); - check clearance between pulley and camshaft; - final tightening to 90 Nm ± (Min. 85 - Max. 95); - check clearance between pulley and camshaft.
  • Page 965 Fit the two rings on the two plugs (4). Start plugs (4) and tighten them to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 – Max. 22). Fitting the variable timing actuators If previously removed, fit the variable timing variators (D). Use the indicated product to lubricate the O-rings (F).
  • Page 966 Make sure that ducts (E) on the head are perfectly clean. Fit the two actuators (D) fully home by slightly forcing them to overcome the O-ring force (F). Apply the recommended threadlocker on the thread of screws (G) and tighten them to 10 Nm (Min. 9 - Max. 11). Fixed tensioner Apply the indicated product and insert the fixed tensioners (3) with relevant bearing and washers (2), in the head pins and tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min.
  • Page 968 Refitting the tensioner pins Apply the recommended threadlocker to the pin thread. Insert the tensioner pins (1) on the heads and tighten them with tool (A) no. 88713.1821. Tighten the tensioner pins to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm - Max. 55 Nm).
  • Page 969 Refitting the timing layshaft pulley To fit the snap ring (7) in the timing layshaft seat, use the tool no. 88713.2834. Install the inner spacer (6) on the timing layshaft, taking care to match the key notch.
  • Page 970 Fit the first key (4) on the timing layshaft. Locate the inner pulley (3).
  • Page 971 Refit the second key (4) and the washer (5). Locate the outer pulley (3) and the spacer (2). Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the shaft.
  • Page 972 Fit the ring nut (1). Important To prevent the ring nuts from loosening and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking ring nuts on all the timing belt rollers. Block with tool (A) no. 88713.1805 the rotation of the belt rollers and tighten to 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm) the self-locking ring nut using the insert supplied with the wrench and a torque wrench.
  • Page 973 Removing the timing layshaft pulleys Remove the timing belt covers. Block with tool (A) no. 88713.1805 the rotation of the driving belt rollers on the crankcase. If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, hold the driving pulleys against rotation using tool no.
  • Page 974 Remove the first key (4) from the timing layshaft. Remove the spacer (5) and the inner pulley (3).
  • Page 975 Remove the inner spacer (6) and second key (4) on the timing layshaft.
  • Page 976 It is now possible to remove the snap ring (7) on the timing layshaft.
  • Page 978 Removing the tensioner pins Use tool part no. 88713.1821 to remove tensioner pins (1) from the heads.
  • Page 979 Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner Note The procedure below refers to one head but it applies to both coils. Loosen the nut (1), recover washer (2) and slide out tensioner pulley (3). Loosen the two closing plugs (4).
  • Page 980 Loosen the two retaining screws (5) and remove the two pulleys.
  • Page 981 Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt Loosen the nut (1) and remove the washer (2) and the mobile tensioner (3) from the pin (4) on the cylinder head. Remove the timing belt (5) from the piston-cylinder assy. Important If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the piston-cylinder assy they belong to.
  • Page 982 Removing the timing belt covers For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. Undo the fixing screws (1) of the upper external cover (2) and remove it from the vertical piston-cylinder assy. Undo screws (1) of the intermediate external central cover.
  • Page 983 Using suitable tools lift up plug (3) to remove it.
  • Page 984 Loosen the fastening screws (4) and (5) on the main cover (6).
  • Page 985 Refitting the camshafts If the stud bolts (13) were removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the short end of the stud bolts (13), i.e. the side that is to be screwed into the cylinder head. Tighten stud bolts (13) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Check that the camshafts (marked "VA"...
  • Page 986 Use the specified lubricant to lubricate the head, the supports (10) and (11) and the camshaft seats. Fill tanks (A) with specified lubricant.
  • Page 988 Install the camshafts in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly. Bed down the supports. Apply sealant at the four points of the support (10) as shown in the figure. Clean off any excess of sealant. Check that plugs (14) are present on the camshafts (15) and (16).
  • Page 989 Apply engine oil to the thread and underhead of screws (9). Start screws (9). Pre-tighten screws (9) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Pre-tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8. Then tighten screws to a torque of 22.5 Nm (Min.
  • Page 990 Check valve lift as explained in chapter (Checking valve lift). Sealing rings Lubricate the sealing rings (17) with denatured alcohol. Install driving tool (B) no. 88713.4648 on the camshaft and start the seal ring on the cylinder head with the side featuring a spring (18) facing inwards.
  • Page 991 Using the drift no. 88713.4965 provided with the tool and a mallet drive the sealing rings into their seats.
  • Page 992 When correctly installed, the sealing ring (17) should be flush with the bevel of the cylinder head. Check that the head features the centring bushing (19). Fit the variators as described in chapter "Refitting the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner".
  • Page 993 If previously removed, install the oil flow pin (20) using suitable tools.
  • Page 994 Cylinder head cover Apply the indicated sealant on the four highlighted points.
  • Page 996 Fit the gaskets (7) and (8) on the cylinder head cover, as shown in the figure. Cylinder head cover identification To distinguish the two heads, check that the secondary air valve is outwards as shown in the figure.
  • Page 997 Locate cover (6) on the cylinder head, aligning it with the four fixing holes. Start screws (3) and (4) with O-rings (5).
  • Page 998 Tighten the screws (3) and (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), respecting the indicated sequence. Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head. Install and tighten spark plug (1) with a suitable wrench no. 887132877.
  • Page 999 Connect the secondary piping and position the clip. Refit the previously removed components. Connect the coils. Fix the water radiator to the frame (Refitting the water radiator). Fix the timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers). Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
  • Page 1000 Check of the camshafts and supports Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving. Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power. Place the camshaft between two opposite centres and check the run-out on the areas indicated using two dial gauges.
  • Page 1002 Removing the camshafts Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the rear RH side body panel (Removing the side body panels and the tail guard). Remove the front half-fairings (Removing the front half-fairing). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).
  • Page 1003 Remove the gaskets (7) and (8).
  • Page 1004 Removing the camshafts Undo the screws (9) securing the camshaft supports. Withdraw the camshaft supports (10) and (11) straight out from the cylinder head by prying in the indicated points, taking care not to damage the machined faces and centring dowels (12).
  • Page 1007 Refitting the cylinder head assemblies Warning To prevent oil leaks in the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed, cylinder and piston must be removed as well to clean the mating faces of crankcase and cylinder and restore the worn gaskets and O-rings and apply again sealing compound.
  • Page 1008 Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions). Refit the timing belts and covers (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners). Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
  • Page 1009 Overhauling the cylinder head components Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts. Remove any scale from the coolant ducts. Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, steps or other damage. Check that the cylinder mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale. If this is not the case, spread diamond lapping paste (6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the cylinder head on the surface as shown in the figure until a flat surface is obtained.
  • Page 1010 Important Since it is absolutely necessary that the machining is extremely precise, we recommend having it performed by operators specialised in grinding operations. Maintaining the valve seat Visually check the contact surface between the valve and its seat on the head. There must be no pitting or cracks. Check that the outer diameter of the valve seat contact surface.
  • Page 1011 Remove the least possible quantity of material from the seat. If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and 0.06 mm oversized outside diameters. Warning Check that there are no leaks by filling the intake and exhaust pipes with a suitable product. In case of leaks, check the repair quality with Prussian blue.
  • Page 1012 0.04 to 0.10 mm. The valve seats are available as spare parts with outer diameter oversized by 0.03 and 0.03 mm. Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice. Drive the seats perfectly square into the head housings using the appropriate installers 88713.2846 and 88713.2847.
  • Page 1013 Valve guides Check the internal surface of the valve guides: there should be no signs of deformation or cracking. Thoroughly check the dimensions of the valve guide. Measure the inside diameter with a suitable gauge. Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide. The clearance upon fitting must be: maximum detected value - minimum detected value = 0.028÷0.013 mm.
  • Page 1014 allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats; choose suitable valve guides to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head of 0.022 to 0.051 mm; heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guides in dry ice; lubricate the seats in the cylinder head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools and with reference to the dimensions given in the figure.
  • Page 1015 - Measure the diameter of the valve stem at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide. - Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a "V" reference and measure deformation with a dial gauge. Service limit: 0.053 mm.
  • Page 1016 Checking the valve seal After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between valve face and seat: if the seat contact area (S) on the valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.
  • Page 1017 Checking the rocker arms Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off. Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft. Clearance upon fitting: 0.025÷0.049 mm. Wear limit: 0.08 mm.
  • Page 1018 Check the conditions of the return springs of the closing rocker arms: no cracks, deformations or failure must be present.
  • Page 1019 Refitting the valve rocker arms Check the rocker arm conditions: they must feature no scratches or breakage. Note The closing rocker arms are longer than the opening ones. OPENING ROCKER ARMS Fit the opening rocker arm shafts (7) using suitable tools. Position spacer (8) and spring (6) on shaft (7).
  • Page 1020 Using the pawl of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit no. 88713.2069, fit springs (6) in the closing rocker arms (5).
  • Page 1021 Follow the same procedure to refit the opening rocker arms. Note Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side. Warning Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly. CLOSING ROCKER ARMS Fit the closing rocker arm shafts (3) using suitable tools.
  • Page 1022 Locate the closing rocker arm (4) and drive the shaft (3) home.
  • Page 1023 Follow the same procedure to refit the closing rocker arms. If not installed before, lift the opening rocker arms (4) and insert the opening shim as described in chapter "Refitting the valves". Refit the camshafts (Refitting the camshafts) and check the valve opening clearance (Checking and adjusting the valve clearance).
  • Page 1024 Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners). Connect the caps to the coils. Connect the secondary air pipe (Refitting the secondary air system). Refit the complete head (Fitting the complete heads).
  • Page 1025 Removing the valve rocker arms Remove the heads from the cylinder (Removing the engine heads). Remove the camshafts (Removing the camshafts). The procedure below refers to one head but it applies to both coils. Loosen blanket plugs (1) and collect seals (2). Use suitable tools to slide out shafts (3) of the opening rocker arms (4) both on intake and exhaust side.
  • Page 1026 Follow the same procedure to remove the opening rocker arms (4) on the intake and exhaust side. Using the pawl of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit no. 88713.2069, slide springs (6) out of the closing rocker arms (5).
  • Page 1028 Withdraw the shafts (7) of the closing rocker arms on the exhaust and intake sides.
  • Page 1029 Remove the closing rocker arms (5), the springs (6) with the spacers (8).
  • Page 1030 Refitting the valves Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (A) and the two exhaust valve seats (B). Lubricate the stems of the two intake valves (5) and the two exhaust valve stems (4) with engine oil. Fit the valves in their seats on cylinder head, fully home.
  • Page 1031 If previously removed, fit the seal rings before installing the valves. Lubricate the rings with indicated product, then use tool no. 88713.2442 to drive the four seal rings (6) in the relevant valve guide seats. Important Pay attention not to lubricate the ring seats. Note Position the seal ring as shown in the figure.
  • Page 1032 Fit the closing rocker arms as described in chapter (Refitting the rocker arms). Insert closing shims (2) in the valve stem.
  • Page 1033 Insert the two split rings (3) in the valve seat. Using suitable tools, quickly push the closing rocker arm to bring the shim (2) into seat.
  • Page 1034 Fit the opening shims (1).
  • Page 1035 Repeat the same procedure for the other valves.
  • Page 1036 Removing the valves Remove the rocker arms (Removing the rocker arms). Remove the opening shim (1) from the valve using a pair of pliers. Lower the closing shim (2) and remove the split rings (3) using a magnet screwdriver.
  • Page 1037 Withdraw the exhaust and intake valves (4) and (5) from underhead of the cylinder head. Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
  • Page 1038 Removing the cylinder heads Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions). Remove the belts and their external covers (Removing the timing belt external covers). Use tool part no. 88713.2676, undo the nuts (1) on the cylinder head stud bolts. Remove the polygonal nuts (1) and special washers (2).
  • Page 1039 Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine stud bolts. Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
  • Page 1040 Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly If new parts are used, it is necessary to match cylinders and pistons of the same selection see chapter "Overhauling the cylinder/piston components". Note If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston ring gaps at 120°...
  • Page 1041 Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase half and the cylinders. Check that on the engine block there is the cylinder centring dowel (B) O-ring (C). Apply the indicated sealant on both sides of gasket (10).
  • Page 1042 Using cap no. 88713.1920, fit the O-rings (A) on each stud bolt and guide them into their seats in the crankcase. Bring the con-rod small end to the TDC and insert cylinder (4) on the stud bolts.
  • Page 1043 Match the con-rod small end with the hole for the piston gudgeon pin hole. Insert gudgeon pin (9) must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston. Close the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the snap ring (8) as shown in the figure.
  • Page 1044 Push the cylinder (4) down until it seats against the crankcase. Refit bushings (7) and O-ring (11).
  • Page 1045 Fit the cylinder head gasket (6) over the stud bolts. The side marked with the part number must be facing the cylinder head. Note The shape of the gasket prevents incorrect fitting, provided that the fluid flow holes are aligned with those on the cylinder.
  • Page 1046 Fit hoses (2) and (3), and tighten the clips (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm). Refit the belts and their external covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers). Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
  • Page 1047 Overhauling the cylinder/piston components Overhauling the cylinder Check that the walls of the cylinder are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder diameter at 50 mm from the top face and determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in Sect.
  • Page 1048 Overhauling the piston Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits. Visually inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other damage. The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt and in perpendicular direction to the gudgeon pin axis.
  • Page 1049 Overhauling the gudgeon pins Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The well- lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness. For the coupling clearance values with the piston and the connecting rod, see chapter "Cylinder/Piston". If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
  • Page 1050 Overhauling the piston rings The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Spare pistons are supplied complete with piston rings and gudgeon pin.
  • Page 1051 Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top ring (1st ring "S") and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd ring "T" and oil scraper ring "R"). The piston rings must always be fitted with markings (M) facing upwards.
  • Page 1052 First ring (S).
  • Page 1053 Second ring (T). Oil scraper ring (R).
  • Page 1054 Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance Insert the piston ring 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder; make sure that the ring is positioned perfectly square to the cylinder axis by checking with a gauge at several points around the ring that the top surface of the ring is 50 mm from the cylinder top face.
  • Page 1055 Removing the cylinder/piston assembly Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions). Remove the belts and their external covers (Removing the timing belt external covers). Remove the heads from the engine block (Removing the engine heads).
  • Page 1056 Remove the bushes (7). Use tool (B) part no. 88765.1657 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder near the TDC.
  • Page 1057 Carefully lift the cylinder (4) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical. If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (8). Since insertion of piston in the cylinder is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the piston together with the barrel as described below.
  • Page 1058 Remove from the cylinder head stud bolts the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase between the cylinder and the gasket (10).
  • Page 1059 Proceed in the same way for the other cylinder. Important Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed: V= Vertical - O= Horizontal.
  • Page 1060 Refitting the clutch Insert guide (14). Locate the clutch housing (13) and the spacer (12).
  • Page 1061 Position the clutch drum (8). Fit the clutch plates on the hub. When removing new plates, the driving ones (7) must be lubricated on both sides with the indicated product.
  • Page 1062 The plate pack consists of: 11 driving plates (A) with 2.8 mm thickness 1 driven plate (B): 2.0 mm thickness...
  • Page 1063 9 driven plates (C): 2.0 mm thickness 1 judder spring (D): thickness 1.0 mm 1 anti juddering spacer (E): 1.2 mm thickness.
  • Page 1064 Plate pack thickness 50.8 (+0.3-0.7). Locate the Belleville washer (10). Apply the indicated grease to the thread of the gearbox primary shaft and the mating surface of nut (9), and fit it over Belleville washer (10). Block the clutch drum using tool (F) part no. 88713.3408 and tighten the retaining nut (9) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min.
  • Page 1065 Insert the control pin (6) in the bearing (7) and the latter in the gearbox primary shaft.
  • Page 1066 Place the pusher plate (4) on the centring tool (G) part no. 88713.3352. Fit the pressure plate (4). Insert a spring (3) in each recess. Position ring (2). Lubricate the thread of the screws (1) with oil. Start screws (1).
  • Page 1067 Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover). Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Refit the sump guard unit (Refitting the belly pan).
  • Page 1068 Checking and overhauling the components Clearance between the clutch housing and friction plate Insert a friction plate (E) in the clutch housing (F) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge. Clearance "S" must not exceed 0.6 mm. If it does, replace the plates and, if necessary, the clutch housing. Overhauling the clutch plates The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
  • Page 1069 Overhauling the pressure plate Check bearing (7) conditions: replace the bearing if the play is excessive. Check the contact surface of the last friction plate; if extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described previously for the cylinder head surface (Overhauling the cylinder head components). Check the condition of the spring guide seats (G) of pusher plate (4) and of snap rings (5).
  • Page 1071 Removing the clutch Remove the belly pan unit (Removing the belly pan). Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Note For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. Undo the fixing screws (1) and remove the ring (2) and the springs (3) from the pusher plate (4).
  • Page 1072 Remove the clutch control pin (6) and bearing (7). Block clutch drum (8) using the tool part no. 88713.3408 and loosen retaining nut (9).
  • Page 1073 Remove Belleville washer (10) and remove clutch plates (11) from the clutch housing. Slide out the clutch drum (8).
  • Page 1075 Slide out the spacer (12). Slide out the clutch housing (13).
  • Page 1076 Slide off the guide (14).
  • Page 1077 Description of the clutch assembly The clutch has the important function to immediately disconnect the gearbox primary shaft from the crankshaft. Working on clutch lever (1) the master cylinder (2) is pressurized and pushes on the control rod (3). Therefore the pusher plate (4) is moved and detaches the driven plates from the driving ones.
  • Page 1078 Inside the clutch housing there the driving plates (7) and the driven plates (8). The driving clutch plates move together with housing (5) and crankshaft (10) by means of gear (9). While the driven plates move together with the clutch hub (11) that is fixed to the gearbox shaft (6). The entire system is moved by the pressure on the hub springs.
  • Page 1079 Working on the clutch lever, thanks to the pusher plate mechanism, the clutch will be detached and the plates will rotate freely with no connection to housing and hub. This will allow the detachment of crankshaft and gearbox shaft.
  • Page 1080 The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunction. A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by: - excessive play of the control lever; - distorted clutch plates; - incorrect spring tension; - faulty clutch release mechanism; - excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
  • Page 1081 Reassembling the clutch cover Fit the plug (1) and the gasket (2). Fit the plug (3) and the gasket (4). If the bush has been replaced, fully seat the new bush (11) in the slot in the cover using a suitable drift and a press.
  • Page 1082 In order for the sealing ring (10) to perform correctly, it must have an assembly clearance that allows the circlip (8) to rotate. Position the soundproofing panel (7) inside the clutch cover as shown in the figure. Position the internal cover (6) on panel (7). Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (5).
  • Page 1084 Disassembling the clutch cover Remove the plug (1) and the relevant O-ring (2) from the cover, the plug (3) and its seal (4). Undo screws (5) of the inner cover (6). Remove the inner cover (6) and the soundproofing panel (7). Remove the circlip (8) and withdraw the shim (9) and the sealing ring (10).
  • Page 1085 Removing the clutch cover Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the belly pan unit (Removing the belly pan). Loosen the fastening screws (2), (3) and (4) on the clutch cover (1). Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase half. Remove the clutch cover (1) paying attention to the centring bush (5) and O-ring (6).
  • Page 1086 Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear. Position spacer (D) on the crankshaft. Fit the driving gear (B) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase. Temporarily secure the gear with the washer (4) and ring nut (3).
  • Page 1087 To check the backlash, temporarily fit the clutch housing (1) complete with the primary driven gear (A) on the gearbox primary shaft. Fix a dial gauge to the crankcase, positioning the stylus against a gear tooth. Turn the driven gear (A) to mesh the teeth and check that backlash ranges between 0.05 and 0.07 mm. Repeat the check at 16 different points of the driven gear.
  • Page 1088 Position washer (4) and ring nut (3). Using the suitable tool (U), tighten ring nut (3) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 171 Nm - Max. 209 Nm).
  • Page 1089 Refit the oil pump (C) and check the backlash between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the crankshaft (Refitting the oil pump). Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces of the clutch housing (1). Fit the spacer (2) onto the primary shaft. Fit the clutch housing (1) along with the driven gear (A).
  • Page 1090 Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch). Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover). Refit the belly pan unit (Refitting the belly pan). Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
  • Page 1091 Removing the primary drive gears Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the belly pan unit (Removing the belly pan). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch). Withdraw the clutch housing (1) complete with driven gear of the primary drive gear (A).
  • Page 1092 Remove the ring nut (3) and the lock washer (4).
  • Page 1093 Remove the complete primary drive driving gear (B) using a commercial puller and placing a brass or aluminium pad between crankshaft and puller screw. Remove spacer (D).
  • Page 1095 Refitting the gearchange mechanism Visually inspect the gear selector fork (5) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector drum. If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gearchange mechanism. Reassemble the gearchange mechanism orienting the pins (6), suitably lubricated, in such a way that the lever (7) is positioned centrally with respect to the shoulders of the stop plate (8).
  • Page 1096 Note There are two types of springs, therefore pay attention to the installation seats.
  • Page 1097 Position the gearbox drum selector fork in the centre of the gear rollers. Position the gearchange mechanism (3) together with control shaft, spring and plate into the chain-side crankcase half. Insert the screws (1) and (2) with the spacer (4). Temporarily fit gearchange lever (or a service lever) and engine sprocket and shift to neutral gear.
  • Page 1098 Place tool (A) part no. 88713.3334 inserting the clutch rod (E) into the tool hole, block the pin (F) of the tool in the gear pawl pressing with the hand in the point (G) (pawl stroke stop plate) towards the right, as shown in photo.
  • Page 1099 In this position tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 36 Nm (Min. 34 Nm - Max. 38 Nm) and the screw (2) to a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 17 Nm). Remove service tool. Check that the pin (H) placed on the gearbox selector drum is aligned with the notch (L) on the gear pawl (with gear in neutral).
  • Page 1100 With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should apply when a gear is engaged. Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage when shifting up and down.
  • Page 1101 Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet On the special screw (5), fit the gear ratchet (6), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (7) with the square edge side (D) facing the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (8), positioning it so that the hook end (A) is facing the gear ratchet.
  • Page 1102 Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch). Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover). Fill the system with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Refit the sump guard unit (Refitting the sump guard).
  • Page 1103 Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet Remove the sump guard unit (Removing the sump guard). Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch).
  • Page 1105 Removing the gearchange mechanism Remove the belly pan unit (Removing the belly pan). Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket cover). Remove the clutch slave cylinder (Removing the clutch slave cylinder).
  • Page 1107 Reassembling the gearbox assembly To refit the gearbox components follow the procedure under chapter, "Closing the crankcase", relating to the reassembly of the engine crankcase. As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
  • Page 1108 Reassembling the gearbox shafts The figure shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox primary shaft (17), with the calculated end shim (18) (Reassembling the crankcase halves). The figure shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox secondary shaft (1), with the calculated end shim (Reassembling the crankcase halves).
  • Page 1109 Fit the 3th speed gear (12).
  • Page 1110 Install the splined washer (8) on the gear. Fit another roller bearing cage (10) using the method already described. Fit the 4th speed gear (9). Fit another three-pointed washer (8) and another snap ring (7) into the shaft. Push it inside its seat using the previously used drift.
  • Page 1112 Inspecting the fork selector drum Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the groove on the selector drum. If the service limit has been exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these dimensions with those of new components (Gearbox). Also check the wear on the drum support pins;...
  • Page 1113 Inspecting the gear selector forks Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be replaced as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing or may suddenly disengage when under load. Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove. If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork by referring to the limits specified for each part (Gearbox).
  • Page 1115 Overhauling the gearbox Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of wear on the edges of the teeth. The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts. When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
  • Page 1116 Disassembling the gearbox shafts Place the shaft in a vice in such a way to facilitate the disassembly operations. Important Take care not to invert the shim position upon reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the crankcase. Disassembling the gearbox secondary shaft Remove washer (2) from the secondary shaft (1).
  • Page 1117 Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (7) from its seat, taking care not to damage the shaft surface. Slide off the splined washer (8). Remove the fourth speed driven gear (9) with its roller bearing cage (10). Remove the third speed driven gear (12).
  • Page 1118 Remove the roller bearing cage (10), the splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7). Remove the sixth speed driven gear (13). Remove the snap ring (7) and withdraw the splined washer (8) and the second speed driven gear (14). Withdraw the roller cage (10) and the shim (15).
  • Page 1119 Disassembling the gearbox primary shaft Remove washer (18) from the primary shaft (17).
  • Page 1120 Remove the second speed driving gear (19). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8). Important Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring. Remove the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8). Remove the sixth speed driving gear (20) with its roller cage (10).
  • Page 1121 Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (21). Remove the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8). Slide out the fifth speed driving gear (22) with the relevant roller bearing cage (10) and the shim (15). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox primary shaft (17).
  • Page 1123 Removing the gearbox assembly Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the timing components (Removing the timing outer covers). Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts). Remove the complete cylinder head assembly (Removing the cylinder heads). Remove the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly). Remove the generator side cover and the generator assembly (Removing the generator cover).
  • Page 1124 Once removed, it is possible to replace the special rollers (7). Remove gear selector forks (8) and (9).
  • Page 1125 Remove the gearbox primary (10) and secondary (11) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the shim washers on the ends of the shafts. If the bearing inner rings (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox primary (10) and secondary (11) shafts as described in "Separating the crankcase halves".
  • Page 1127 Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly Check that tab (11) is installed on the crankshaft. Fit gear (9) so that the reference point is centred on the references of the timing gear (10). Note Check that, in this position, the horizontal cylinder piston is at top dead centre. Fit the roller bearing cage (7) in bushing (8) by applying the specified grease on the washer.
  • Page 1128 Thoroughly clean the shaft and nut threads and ensure they move freely. Heat up the flywheel to 100° ± 5°. Install the flywheel assembly (6) with the gear (7), aligning the notches as shown in the photo.
  • Page 1129 Block the flywheel rotation with the suitable tool no. 88713.3367. Fit washer (5).
  • Page 1130 Fit the rotor on the shaft and tighten it to 150 Nm. Wait for the flywheel to cool down. Completely loosen the nut that was tightened before and apply the product on the first 4/5 threads. Tighten nut (4) to 300 Nm. Thoroughly clean any residues of threadlocker on the top of the nut.
  • Page 1131 Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly Inspect the inner part of generator rotor (1) for signs of damage. Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or damage of any kind. Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation.
  • Page 1132 Remove starter clutch (5) with flange (6) from flywheel (4). Reassembling the flywheel/generator assembly Fit starter clutch (5) on flange (6) taking starter clutch edge (A) fully home on flange. Important The edge of the starter clutch must be on the side where the flange has the chamfer.
  • Page 1133 Insert the flange with starter clutch in the flywheel (4) so that the holes are concentric. Insert rotor (3) on flywheel (4) and apply the indicated threadlocker.
  • Page 1134 Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm – Max: 15 Nm), respecting the indicated sequence. Use engine oil to lubricate the driven gear race as shown in the figure. Fit the driven gear on the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated.
  • Page 1137 Removing the flywheel/generator assembly Fix tool (A) part no. 88713.3367. Block the tool on the flywheel by inserting screw (1) into hole (2) and on the casing by means of screws (3). Unscrew the generator-flywheel retaining nut (4). Remove nut (4) and washer (5).
  • Page 1138 Remove the flywheel unit (6) and the driven gear (7).
  • Page 1139 Remove the roller bearing (7) and bushing (8). Remove gear (9).

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2017 Ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro Pro

The wild one gets bigger teeth and claw to take up anything coming its way.

We all know that Ducati is one such motorcycle maker which makes machines straight from the heart. Every motorcycle in the stable of Ducati speaks of some purpose which is beautifully blended with the pinch of hardcore passion. Ducati made a surprising move some half a decade ago when it unveiled the Multistrada for the first time in front of the world. Out of all the motorcycles from Ducati, the Multistrada proved out to be the most practical motorcycle which still doesn’t miss out on the specific Ducati principles.

The Multistrada gradually went on creating a new niche of motorcycles, thus changing the image of Ducati as a manufacturer of only hard-core supersports. Then in 2015, they gave us the Enduro edition. Unlike the urban design of the standard Multistrada 1200, the new Multistrada 1200 Enduro claims to expose the wild side of Ducati, with its pure adventure appeal.

Now in 2017, the brand has taken it to the next level. They have given the adventure junkie more tools to let the 1200 Enduro go “even more globetrotter with the Pro version”. To allow treading on even less-beaten track, the Pro features rally tyres, new tank bars, new colour schemes, type-approved titanium exhaust sets and more. Let me go ranting about them:

  • Make: Array
  • Model: 2017 Ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro Pro
  • Engine/Motor: L-Twin

Easily being the wildest looking motorcycle to roll out of the Borgo factory, the Enduro bears all resemblance to the original 1200 Multistrada but changes its game with more kit and accessories to take on the less-beaten roads too with aplomb. The Enduro Pro here takes that philosophy to a much deeper terrain in a shade of Sand.

Out front, the Enduro Pro has the same busy face with the tear drop shaped twin LED headlamps engulfed in a curvy V-shaped front fascia, which also comes with Ducati cornering lights (DCL) as well. The design of the beak-shaped short fender positioned below the headlamps which stretch all the way from the fuel tank and end up in a nose-shaped dual air vent. The screen is lowered to have better visibility during those on-the-pegs off-road riding.

The handlebar does get crash guards on both the sides ahead of palm grips and comes with integrated LED turn indicators in them. The switchgear and the comprehensive TFT colour instrument cluster is the same of that of the Enduro, which shows digital readouts for speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip meters, fuel gauge, temperature gauge, gear indicator, average fuel consumption and selected riding mode. With Ducati Multistrada Link, the rider has an advantage of hooking up his smartphone to have a more engaging ride on his Enduro Pro.

The semi fairing of the new Multistrada 1200 Enduro has the same sense of flow in its design, with a smooth curvy design all the way from the rear side body panels to the nose at the front below the headlamps, like that of the standard Multistrada. The partly exposed trellis frame enhances the side profile and lends it the exotic appeal which the Ducatis’ are renowned for. The rear frame, however, gets a black treatment.

From the sides, it gets the same big, curvaceous and heightened up fuel tank with large side fuel tank extension panels and black tank pads. It has the tank capacity of 7.9 gal as well, giving it a much bigger tank range in the competition. The Pro makes a wink with the Ducati Performance tubular steel tank bars by Touratech with additional LED lighting to add to the whole appeal. Of course, you get the under body bash plate to beat all those rocks from harming your motorcycle.

Then there is that eye-catching Sand-coloured, with rough surface matte finish, front end and tank cover sporting “Enduro” logo stickers on both sides. Other Multistrada 1200 Enduro Pro exclusive features include the large and comfortable two-tone seat and the black sub-frame and clutch/alternator covers. Also, sporting is the Scorpion Rally tyres that now come standard with the PRO and the type-approved Ducati Performance titanium silencer by Termignoni.

Overall Dimension

The new Ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro has been bestowed with the same Ducati Teststretta DVT engine as found on the standard Multistrada, which ensures an optimised power and torque delivery, thanks to a new Desmodromic continuous variable valve timing.

With what we call it as a 90-degree V-twin, the Enduro Pro churns out plenty of torque with 94 lb-ft at 7,500 rpm, and 74 lb-ft comes as early as 3000 rpm. But it really shines in the horsepower department. At 9,500 rpm, a total of 155 ponies gets unleashed from the stable, and you had better be hanging on. All the power is sent to the rear via a hydraulic-assist “slipper” clutch variety designed to limit back-torque and prevent loss of rear-wheel grip during aggressive downshifts. The six-speed transmission and chain drive handle the final drive ratios.

The Testastretta uses the Desmodromic valve actuation that operates the intake and exhaust valves mechanically for those precise throttle responses with no springs to be compressed. The Desmodromic Variable Timing (DVT) hydraulically operates camshaft-phasers to manipulate camshaft position that are actuated by solenoid valves. All of this equals to precise camshaft timings and a smooth build-up of power. The Anti-knock sensor allows the rider to use a range of fuel qualities without letting the engine stall in some far-off lands.

Finally, the single 2-chamber silencer acting as a 2-1-2 collector in the Pro gets a type approved Ducati Performance titanium silencer by Termignoni. This will elevate your senses wherever you wish to take the Enduro, be it the asphalt or the dirt and rocks.

Engine Specification

RIDE AND HANDLING

The new Multistrada 1200 Enduro sits on a slightly improved and strengthened trellis frame as compared to the standard Multistrada, with a light weight magnesium sub-frame at the front and a single sided cast aluminium swingarm at the rear. Ensuring optimum off-road capability, the Enduro Pro comes with higher handlebars and seats and most important of all is the height-adjustable levers give the riders an enjoyable ride without having to break a sweat.

Ducati runs a set of electronic semi-active Sachs 48 mm forks in the traditional, right-side-up configuration and it comes not only with a longer overall length. The rear suspension on the Enduro likewise comes with a 7.9-inch stroke from the Sachs monoshock, and both ends benefit from the Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) feature. Unlike the other Ducati machines on the sale, the suspension on the Multistrada 1200 Enduro Pro has been finely tuned to tackle all the varying tarmac conditions with equal finesse, while the wheel travel for both the front and rear wheels are more as compared to the standard Multistrada.

The ride comes with a 265 mm disc and twin-pot calliper in back, and carry Brembo, four-bore, Monobloc callipers up front with a pair of 320 mm discs. All of the brakes across the board come with cornering ABS as part of the standard package for a little extra traction protection. The final bit of magic in the brake system concerns the Ducati Hold Control feature that allows you to temporarily set a brake, as on an incline, and let go of the front brake lever before takeoff. This will pay for itself the first time you have to come to a stop on an incline, especially if you are heavily laden with gear and a passenger.

The Enduro Pro comes blessed with a spoked 19-inch front wheel and a 17 inch rear wheel, both of which come wrapped with Pirelli Scorpion Rally tyres that do the job of gliding over broken sections of roads or no-roads sufficiently well. The only glitch for most of the riders, especially the shorter ones, is the high rider seat height of 870mm.

The new Multistrada 1200 Enduro also comes with a range of electronics on offer, including the cruise control, hands free ignition, four different riding modes (urban, touring, sport and enduro), power modes and Ducati Safety Pack, which in itself includes Brembo's state-of-the-art 9.1ME multi-calibration cornering ABS with three mappings and 8-levels Ducati Traction Control (DTC) and Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC).

Chassis Specifications

MSRP for the Ducati Multistrada Enduro fell at $21,295. Ducati says we can expect to start seeing the Enduro Pro in dealerships sometime in August, and the U.S. retail price is TBD. We expect the Pro version to definitely have at least $1500 jump on its price tag from the original Enduro.

Expect the Pro in only the eye-catching Sand-coloured, with rough surface finish, front end and tank cover sporting “Enduro” logo stickers on both sides. On the Multistrada 1200 Enduro Pro, the Oil Service and Desmo Service are now carried out every 9,000 & 18,000 miles respectively.

COMPETITION

There is no competition to this Italian in terms of defining beauty. But when it comes to riding and built quality, there is no escaping the comparisons from the European brothers. Talk about BMW or Triumph, they have been running the show for quite some time now and have produced the world’s finest. To give the Multistrada something to quirk about, the BMW R 1200 GS Adventure and the Triumph Tiger Explorer XC surfaces on the face of the Ducati.

BMW R 1200 GS Adventure

The flagship motorcycle of the GS series, R 1200 GS Adventure, is regarded as one of the most capable and technically advanced adventure motorcycle across the world today. The motorcycle, in its latest avatar, is here showcasing the best of engineering prowess in the segment of enduring motorcycles, and at the same time, it takes forward the legacy of the almost 35-year-old ‘GS’ nameplate, which initiated with the R 80 GS back in 1980.

The motorcycle is positioned above the standard R 1200 GS as a more kitted out and beefed up motorcycle, ready to conquer even more difficult terrains. The BMW R 1200 GS Adventure comes with the company’s trademark philosophy of equipping the motorcycles with asymmetric headlamps. Though this time, the headlight unit comes fitted with LED daytime running lamps, which makes it very special and distinctive. The adjustable front windscreen is also larger than the one on the R 1200 GS. The fuel tank also gets heavy black claddings towards the front, with the frontal portion of the tank getting tubular frame protection, all the way towards the engine downwards.

The BMW R 1200 GS Adventure comes fitted with a four stroke, air/liquid cooled, flat twin, 1170cc engine, which is shared with the standard R 1200 GS and pumps out 125 bhp of power and 92 lb-ft of torque. Mated to a six-speed gearbox which transfers the power produced to the rear wheel via a shaft drive, the engine has a solid bottom end grunt and mid-range punch, and is very smooth running and high revving in nature. The combination of air as well as liquid cooling enables the engine to be efficient and reliable without sacrificing on high pulling power.

The bettered out Paralever 37mm front hydraulic forks, and cast aluminium single sided swing arm with Telelever have made the steering of the motorcycle even more accurate than before, resulting in a sharper handling and better weight balance. To add in, the optional Dynamic ESA which BMW provides for this bike enables the suspension setup to behave as per the amount of load and type of terrain the bike is going to tackle. As mentioned above, the four different riding modes can be retrieved just at the press of a button on the switchgear. The bike also comes with a Shift Assistant Pro, which allows you to change the gears without using the clutch and throttle levers. The bike comes with dual 305mm disc brakes at front and a single 276mm disc brake at the rear, coupled up with the ABS.

MSRP on the R 1200 GS Adventure starts at $18,895 for Light White. Add another $100 for Ocean Blue Metallic Matte or Racing Red Matte. Add the Premium options package for another $3,350.

Triumph Tiger Explorer XCa

Based on the Tiger Explorer XC, the Tiger Explorer XCa hasn’t missed out on the perfect stance of a true adventure motorcycle as former and looked like an evolution of the smaller Tiger 800 XCa. This flagship Tiger gets a host of additional kit and changes over tall other models to make it the most hard-core adventure utility motorcycle of them all.

The Tiger Explorer XCa has got the twin round headlamp setup surrounded by plastic cladding from the regular Tiger Explorer XC. The headlight also comes with a small beak like fender below it, which gives it an added touch of adventure motorcycle, as well as two LED auxiliary fog lights. To increase the protection from the outbursts of rough terrains, Triumph has provided protection bars besides the engine as well as an aluminium sump guard below the engine.

The other equipment which comes standard in the motorcycle include a center stand, two 12V power sockets, cruise control, heated grips, stainless radiator guard, Hill hold control system, two extra riding modes – the Dynamic Sport and the fully customizable Ride, heated rider and passenger seats, Tyre Pressure Monitoring System and CNC Machined foot rests. Overall build quality is exceptionally well, as expected from a Triumph motorcycle.

The new Triumph Tiger Explorer XCa retains the very capable four stroke, liquid cooled, inline three cylinders, 12-valve, 1215cc engine from the previous generation Tiger Explorer, which is currently the biggest engine on any adventure motorcycle all over the world. Mated to a 6-speed gearbox, this 1215cc engine can churn out a maximum power output of 135 bhp and a peak torque output of 105 lb-ft. Like most of the adventure motorcycles, the drive is transferred to the rear wheel via a shaft.

The bike comes with 46mm upside down telescopic forks at the front and monoshock with remote oil reservoir at the rear, both of which are sourced from WP, unlike the Kayaba forks on the previous iteration, and have a suspension travel of almost 190mm, making this suspension combination best for whatever the worse condition of riding you throw at it. The new Triumph Tiger Explorer XCa comes with a braking setup of dual 310mm discs at the front and a single 285mm disc at the rear, sourced from Nissin – same as that on the Tiger Explorer XC. Both theses brakes are coupled to a switchable ABS. Apart from the ABS, the motorcycle also comes with traction control which has varying riding modes.

MSRP on the Tiger 800 XCa is $20700. Your colour choices are Crystal White, Matt Khaki Green and Lucerne Blue. Triumph cover your XC with a two-year unlimited mileage warranty and a 12-month unlimited mileage warranty on replacement parts.

For some people, adventure is about finding your way through the unknown and doing things most have not or seeing things never seen before is a savour best felt. But unless you plan on walking, you need a way to get there. This is where this 1200 Multistrada Enduro Pro comes in and leaves you with nothing less than a surprise on how capable this thing really is.

Though Ducati is known for making some really pricey motorcycles in the past, in recent times, however, the models of Multistrada range have shown that Ducati can offer sheer value for money options as well. The Enduro Pro does, however, fall on the expensive side but no one can argue about the list of pizzazz and attraction the Ducati flaunts. It still has got the same silhouette, shape and design as its elder siblings, thus scoring full marks in terms of design.

“The Multistrada 1200 Enduro goes even more globetrotter with the new Pro version. “ That is how Ducati puts it. The tank cage, titanium exhaust units, rally tyres, spokes give the rider a higher reach to get off-road and get exploring. With these changes, the new Multistrada 1200 Enduro PRO definitely stays true to its claims of being the wildest Ducati to go on sale.

It perches on the highest point available for motorcycles to tread on in terms of chassis design, riding dynamics and handling capabilities on roads that have been unexplored and thatched. Knowing this is the best tool for you to get going places, it’s not a question of how far your Ducati will go. It’s how far you’re willing to take it.

multistrada 1200 cruise control

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2014 Ducati Multistrada Granturismo Review

Tom Roderick

A Multistrada for the long haul

multistrada 1200 cruise control

“I think you’re really going to like this bike,” E-i-C, Kevin Duke, says to me, handing over the keys to the then just introduced 2010 Multistrada 1200. “We’ll see about that,” I thought, “but it at least looks a helluva lot better than its predecessor.” Turns out I did like it – a lot. In fact, were I not shackled with the responsibility of riding whatever new model press bike is currently residing in my garage, I’d own a Multistrada.

2014 Ducati Multistrada 1200 Grandturismo

Since reviewing the original Multi 1200 , we’ve compared it, or its Touring S derivative, to a number of other motorcycles including the BMW R1200GS and Triumph Explorer . We’ve also stacked it up against bikes such as Honda’s VFR1200F and Kawasaki’s Z1000 in our Oddball Sport-Touring Shootout . Our highest accolade is when we named the newly introduced model with Skyhook suspension, our choice for 2013’s Sport-Touring bike of the year .

With all our coverage, we had yet to taste the latest version of the Multistrada with its long-haul accoutrements, the Granturismo.

2014 ducati multistrada granturismo review, A more upright seating position by virtue of 20mm taller handlebar risers doesn t hamper the GT s cornering prowess Note the included crash bar and fog light there s a matching set on the opposite side

What, exactly, differentiates the Granturismo from its lesser-adorned counterparts? Twenty-three hundred greenbacks worth of accessories meant to make life on the road a bit more palatable. These luxuries include a 48-liter top box with mounting hardware, a larger windscreen, LED fog lights, saddlebags with 15 liters of more storage space (compared to the Touring’s saddlebags), 20mm taller handlebars and crash protectors.

2014 ducati multistrada granturismo review, The taller windscreen on the Granturismo is manually adjustable on the fly to rider preference

In addition to the increased price, you’re also paying a weight penalty of approximately 24 pounds, a claimed 540-pound wet weight for the Granturismo vs. 516 for the S Touring model.

Besides the niceties mentioned above, the $19,995 S Touring model is equally equipped to the $22,295 Granturismo, both outfitted with Ducati’s Skyhook suspension, Ride Modes, Power Modes, Ducati Safety Pack (ABS & DTC), heated grips and a center stand.

How The 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S’ Skyhook Suspension Works

Missing from both Multi models is cruise control – a glaring omission for an apex sport-touring bike that uses ride-by-wire throttle control, which already has the substructure to support the implementation of cruise control. Honestly, going forward, we don’t see how any serious sport-touring or touring motorcycle can be considered as such without the inclusion of cruise control. The technology is too ubiquitous among the two genres to be overlooked.

2014 ducati multistrada granturismo review, Luggage is lockable and easily detaches leaving the bike without ugly mounting bracketry The saddlebags hold 15 liters more than the S Touring model Attachment points are plastic and we re dubious of their damage resistance in even a light crash

Besides the cruise control issue, the Multistrada Granturismo enhances the long-distance experience in what has become a blurry niche of motorcycling – the Sport-Adventure-Tourer. Identified by its longer-travel suspension, SATs combine the attributes of Sport-Tourers and Adventure-Tourers into a soccer mom’s SUV of motorcycling. Outfitted with Pirelli Angel GT tires, at least the Granturismo makes no pretense of going off the pavement like its siblings do with their Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires.

2014 ducati multistrada granturismo review, Must have accidentally spiked the hydro pak with whiskey because taking this 23K 540 pound Italian with street tires off road can be foolhardy Guess we wanted to prove that it can be done but we don t recommend going far off the beaten path

Passengers will like the Multi GT because its 48-liter top box includes a backrest – making an already comfortable bike even more so. Riders will like the bike because with the push of a button you can adjust suspension preload and engine characteristics – or for all the other reasons we named it our pick for best Sport-Touring bike of 2013.

2014 ducati multistrada granturismo review, We ve come to appreciate the clean legible readout of the Multistrada s all digital display Navigation once familiarized is a simple operation Electronic suspension adjustment makes being lazy easy

The question needing answered is, do the few upgrades on the GT model justify its $2,300 upgrade. If it had cruise control in addition to the other elements, yes, definitely. As is, though, we’d be hard pressed to spend the additional dollars over the S Touring version.

However, if you’re in the market for a new Sport-Adventure-Tourer there’s two things you need to consider: the new KTM 1190 Adventure and forthcoming Aprilia Caponord.

The 1190 Adventure doesn’t have cruise control, but it does have an electronics package equal to that of the Ducati’s, including electronically adjustable suspension, R-b-W throttle, traction control, switchable ABS and Ride Modes all for $16,499 ($500 less than the base model Multistrada).

  • Emphasizes Sport in Sport-Adventure-Tourer
  • Skyhook suspension
  • Comfy ergos
  • No cruise control
  • Value deficit

We’re attending the Aprilia Caponord press launch this week, and it’ll be interesting to find out how this pair of Italian 1200cc V-Twins match up. The Caponord brings all the tech offered on the Ducati (semi-active suspension, switchable ride modes, ABS and traction control) and adds electronic cruise control. More impressive is that Aprilia offers all these features – plus hard bags – for a price that is a relative bargain: $15,499.

Sounds like a shootout is brewing to determine if the Multistrada remains the dominant Sport-Adventure-Tourer or if the competition has now beaten Ducati at its own game.

2014 ducati multistrada granturismo review

A former Motorcycle.com staffer who has gone on to greener pastures, Tom Roderick still can't get the motorcycle bug out of his system. And honestly, we still miss having him around. Tom is now a regular freelance writer and tester for Motorcycle.com when his schedule allows, and his experience, riding ability, writing talent, and quick wit are still a joy to have – even if we don't get to experience it as much as we used to.

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Jon

Best bike I've owned (2011 S Touring). Touring, canyon carving, back road hooliganism... doesn't matter - this bike does it all. Maybe there are other bikes that do some of these things better, but I've yet to find one that does them all so well.

Joe_camel

IF it had cruise control AND a shaft drive I'd probably buy one, as is, looks like I'm buying a 2014 Tenere. ;-)

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  • Northern Europe & Baltic Sea

COST of day trip to Moscow ??

By densol , February 26, 2012 in Northern Europe & Baltic Sea

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Cool Cruiser

We have just booked a cruise to the Baltics for next year. I am trying to find out the average cost for a day trip to Moscow from STP. I have searched several times, and whilst I have read reviews and reports about the trips etc - I cannot actually see any examples of the costs. I imagine its quite expensive - but we want to do it so I need to budget LOL !!

Any ballpark figures ? :D

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TLCOhio

We have just booked a cruise to the Baltics for next year. I am trying to find out the average cost for a day trip to Moscow from STP. I have searched several times, and whilst I have read reviews and reports about the trips etc - I cannot actually see any examples of the costs. I imagine its quite expensive - but we want to do it so I need to budget LOL !! Any ballpark figures ? Thanks

We did the Moscow trip through our cruise ship in late July 2008. Its cost was a little under $1000 pp. Now, that cost through this cruise line is a little over that $1000 pp cost. Now, most are using the high-speed rail connection versus the air flights as we did. I have seen some other numbers from other cruise lines and/or private firms that run $700-850.

Why cheaper or the differences? As cruise lines are pressured to keep their "sticker price" low, they need to make up some "margin" with ship tours, beverages, spa stuff, etc., to help cover their costs and gain some profit. Second, different tours provide various features. Our tour included going inside the famed and spectacular Kremlin Palace. Most Moscow tours don't feature that option and you cannot just walk up there and get in on your own. That Palace is where the Czars were crowned and all of the current/recent Russian leaders assumed their powers.

We could have saved a little if we had used a private tour to go to and visit Moscow, but, with my wife's pushing, we felt it was worth it to pay a little more, do it through the cruise line. If there had been any problems or mix-ups, it was the ship's duty to "make it right" and we would not have to worry.

If you have three days in St. Petersburg and/or have been there before, then the Moscow tour can work out very well. It's not cheap, but in my view, worth it!! Both are a few of my visuals from this super great city with such interesting history and dramatic architecture.

THANKS! Enjoy! Terry in Ohio

Did a June 7-19, 2011, Solstice cruise from Barcelona that had stops in Villefranche, ports near Pisa and Rome, Naples, Kotor, Venice and Dubrovnik . Enjoyed great weather and a wonderful trip. Dozens of wonderful visuals with key highlights, tips, comments, etc., on these postings. We are now at 66,454 views for this live/blog re-cap on our first sailing with Celebrity and much on wonderful Barcelona. Check these postings and added info at:

http://www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1426474

For details and visuals, etc., from our July 1-16, 2010, Norway Coast/Fjords/Arctic Circle cruise experience from Copenhagen on the Silver Cloud, check out this posting. This posting is now at 60,364 views.

http://www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1227923

One of the Kremlin Wall Towers in Moscow:

Walking on the famed Red Square of Moscow:

St. Basil's sits on Red Square and dates back to its 1555-61 construction on the orders of Ivan the Terrible (Ivan IV). It commemorates the capture of Kazan and Astrakhan and marks the geometric center of the city. This location has been the hub of its growth for Moscow since the 14th century. It was the tallest building in Moscow until the completion of the Ivan the Great Bell Tower in 1600. This church was near destroyed in the 1930’s when Stalin was in control.:

Here is a small sampling of the Kremlin Royal Treasures of the Czars: Eggs & Jewels insicde the famed Armory.:

Moscow’s subways are called the “People’s Palaces” with their marble coverings and unique designs for each of the different and many stations.:

This is the interior for Moscow's most historic church, Assumption Cathedral or the Cathedral of the Dormition, inside the Kremlin walls. It is the mother church of Muscovite Russia. The church stands on Cathedral Square and was built in 1475–1479 by the Italian architect Aristotele Fioravanti. It was erected on the spot of an older 14th century cathedral of the same name:

We did the day trip to Moscow with Alla-tour and were very pleased with our tour. Our guide whose English was great was a wealth of information and the day went very smoothly. I checked the web site and Alla's prices for 2012 range from $884 a person for two down to $542 a person for 6 with the 5% cruisecritic discount. So if you can get a group together the per person price goes down considerably. You can try to do this on the roll call section of cruisecritic.

We did not go to the Palace and as Terry says this is not included generally in tours. However, we did go to the Diamond Fund, an amazing display of crown jewels and jewelry in the Armoury building but not really part of the Armoury. I would think you could include this if you had a small group and really wanted to see it. It is quite small and does not accommodate a large group. You can google "diamond fund kremlin" to learn more.

Here are some of my pictures

Red Square with St. Basil’s at the far end

Kremlin Cathedral Square

Bolshoi Theatre

Treasures at the Armoury

200 ton Tsar Bell

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

dogs4fun

We did the day trip to Moscow with Alla-tour and were very pleased with our tour. Our guide whose English was great was a wealth of information and the day went very smoothly. I checked the web site and Alla's prices for 2012 range from $884 a person for two down to $542 a person for 6 with the 5% cruisecritic discount. So if you can get a group together the per person price goes down considerably. You can try to do this on the roll call section of cruisecritic. We did not go to the Palace and as Terry says this is not included generally in tours. However, we did go to the Diamond Fund, an amazing display of crown jewels and jewelry in the Armoury building but not really part of the Armoury. I would think you could include this if you had a small group and really wanted to see it. It is quite small and does not accommodate a large group. You can google "diamond fund kremlin" to learn more.

Well said, cadreamer! (nice photos, by the way).

We also used Alla. She is just a super person to work with and, if you get a group together, she will accomodate what YOU want to do!! You can check-out her Moscow tour at:

http://www.alla-tour.com/tours/1

As cadreamer suggests, go to your roll call on Cruise Critic & see if you can get a group together.

Terry, your pix, per usual, are awesome! Still envious! :)

Terry, your pix, per usual, are awesome! Still envious! :) jill

Appreciate, Jill, the kind comments! Envy is GOOD!!

Below are a few more visuals on Moscow that are more "interesting". Fascinating to having seen both cities, back-to-back. It really puts all of this unique Russian history and architecture in better perspective.

Did a June 7-19, 2011, Solstice cruise from Barcelona that had stops in Villefranche, ports near Pisa and Rome, Naples, Kotor, Venice and Dubrovnik . Enjoyed great weather and a wonderful trip. Dozens of wonderful visuals with key highlights, tips, comments, etc., on these postings. We are now at 67,001 views for this live/blog re-cap on our first sailing with Celebrity and much on wonderful Barcelona. Check these postings and added info at:

The famed KGB (Secret Police) Headquarters in Moscow where many entered and did not exit (alive) during the 1950’s and 1960’s:

Kremlin Treasures: Royal coaches:

Young Military Officers on the streets of Moscow with Soviet "High Hat".:

These are the series of smaller domes on the top of the Church of the Deposition of the Robe in the Kremlin Cathedral Square area.:

Inside the newly, more westernized GUM Department Store:

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

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Interflug A310 Incident, Moscow, 1991

Moderators:   richierich , ua900 , PanAm_DC10 , hOMSaR

Interflug A310 Incident, Moscow, 1991 #11015173

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