Scoot West Africa

West Africa Basics

An overview of important information to consider before buying that plane ticket or packing up your landcruiser.

This is general info. It is a place to start. More specific information can be found in country guides and in the latest blog posts .

The big bogeyman when it comes to travel in West Africa.

Have a look at the expiration date in your passport. Make sure that it does not expire during your trip or within 6 months of your trip’s end date.   Also, make sure there are plenty of blank pages.   If you are planning on traveling through multiple countries, be prepared to be issued visas that take up whole pages.

We have long been holding out hope for an ECOWAS visa that would cover the whole of West Africa, but for the moment, the conditions and prices of visas vary by country. Some countries, such as Senegal, don’t require visas for the majority of visitors.

On the other hand, some countries have costly visas and a complicated application process. It’s worth noting that some nationalities may have certain advantages over others depending on the country.

We break down every country’s visa requirements and application procedures in our comprehensive guide to Visas in West Africa.

When to Visit

Most people visit West Africa during the dry season.

There are variations throughout the region, but it’s generally safe to say that the months of November-February fall in the dry season for most countries. 

That is not to say that you cannot visit West Africa during the rainy season, which often falls during the summer months. The lush, verdant landscapes are delightful, and the lack of dust is a welcome change.

But certain countries have their challenges when it comes to traveling at this time of year. In countries like Guinea, Liberia and Sierra Leone, many roads may be impassable. 

Getting to West Africa

Depending on where you are coming from, West Africa can be an expensive air ticket. In terms of proximity and cost, Europe is the most convenient for departures.

Travelers coming from elsewhere may find it difficult to get a direct flight and/or a reasonably priced one.

But regardless of where you are coming from, there are some tactics you can use to minimize the flight costs

  • Book in advance (at least 2 months if possible)
  • Be flexible when it comes to your travel days (middle of the week is always better and holiday times are always more expensive)
  • Make a multi-flight itinerary
  • Fly into a hub and then overland it to your destination

For a detailed guide to finding cheap airfare to West Africa, please see our   comprehensive article on the topic here .

Of course, you may also be coming by road, in which case see below. 

Self-Drive or Public Transport?

Many travelers enter West Africa via Morocco and Western Sahara after taking the ferry from Europe.

Whether you use public transportation or your own vehicle, overland travel is the best way to discover West Africa. Flying from capital to capital will not give you the same immersive experience. 

Of course, both public transportation and private vehicles have their tradeoffs.

Public transport is more affordable and can at times be convenient: checkpoints and borders are less complicated and breakdowns are not your responsibility. Public transport is also a cultural experience, a discovery in itself. 

On the other hand, you can’t control when and where you stop on public transport. There may also be certain areas that are inaccessible without your own vehicle. 

Getting Around

While transport varies by country, there are a few common themes:

  • Regional and domestic flights   – airlines like Air Cote d’Ivoire, Asky, Air Senegal and Air Burkina offer intercity flights. Some airlines like Air Ivoire in Cote d’Ivoire and Starbow in Ghana provide flights between cities within those countries.
  • Buses   – buses ply the roads of every country in West Africa. They are often affordable, but the comfort offered by the bus varies. Most long-haul bus trips are an adventure. Don’t skip   our guide on marathon bus trips .
  • Bush taxis and mini-busses   – more cramped than a bus and often more of an adventure, too. In some places, bush taxis or mini-busses are your only option to get between two cities/towns/villages. They are cheap, and they will eventually reach their destination.   Important note:   despite the discomfort, buses, bush taxis and mini-buses allow you to make plenty of new friends and cultural discoveries.
  • Taxis (of all varieties)   – Depending on the city, you will have a variety of taxi options at your disposal. In Togo, you will see moto-taxis. In Cote d’Ivoire, private taxis, but also woro-woros (a type of shared taxi). Taxis are rarely metered, and if it’s not a shared taxi with a set route, you will need to negotiate the price.
  • State-run transport   – most public transport in West Africa is actually privately run. But some countries have bus networks, water taxis and ferries, and train service (ok, train service is   very   limited in West Africa at the moment). Expect cheap prices and hit-or-miss service (although this depends greatly on the country. Ghana’s STC bus service, for example, offers value and decent service).
  • Overland Tours   – there are not many companies that offer overland trips throughout the region, but a few do. One company we can recommend is Overlanding West Africa , which is one of the only companies to do overland trips through the Guinea-Sierra Leone-Liberia corridor. We highly recommend them for their responsibly-run trips that get you truly off the beaten path.

As we mentioned above, the roads – statistically and anecdotally – pose the greatest threat to your safety. See our article with tips for staying safe on the roads   here .

All Things Money

Your budget will likely vary from country to country and you will want to take a look at individual country pages   to make the most accurate budget estimation.

That said, there are a few things we can say in general about the cost of traveling in West Africa.   See the following points:

  • While you can travel West Africa on a very small budget, the region can also be very expensive depending on your accommodation, transport, and dining choices. One thing that many travelers notice is that there is a lack of the kind of quality budget options that you can find in places like Southeast Asia and South America. This is unsurprising giving how undeveloped the budget travel sector is in West Africa.
  • When I was first backpacking West Africa, I averaged close to $1,000 a month.   I had one month where I spent less than $250, however   — a month in Cote d’Ivoire, couchsurfing the entire time, taking public transport and eating street food or preparing food with my hosts.
  • There were other months where I went over $1,000 — months that included hotel stays, hours in bars and nightclubs, and long voyages and tours.
  • Your budget depends on your comfort level. Unfortunately in West Africa, the price often goes up quickly when you migrate from basic fan room and bucket shower to ensuite room with A/C and hot water.
  • This does not mean you have to be miserable to travel on a budget in West Africa . While it’s true that you may not be able to find a $15 room with air conditioning, you will be able to find a clean and secure room for that price with a fan and a bathroom, inshallah.

For everything related to credit cards, ATMS and cash , please read our article on the subject. Don’t have time to read it? Don’t count on credit cards anywhere, carry a visa debit card (not MasterCard) and have a backup stash of forex, either dollars or euros. 

Sim Cards and Data

Sim cards are still super cheap (data not so much but it varies from country to country) but they are no longer a piece of cake to obtain. Many countries now requre telecom operators to register sim cards with the purchaser. You typically need to present your passport and an agent for the telecom company needs to link your identifying information with the sim card.

We find ourselves increasingly using e-sim services like Airalo for the convenience.

See our full write-up on sim cards and data in this post .

Health and Safety

Is it safe? The number one question from countless travelers.

The dangers of traveling in this region are greatly overstated. While there is active conflict and specific risks in certain areas of certain countries, West Africa is a much more peaceful place than it was a few decades ago.

Rates of violent crime are lower than they are in many other parts of the world, even in urban areas. And while there are certain health risks, you can take proper precautions and avoid major illness.

The greatest threat to your safety in West Africa is on the roadways . Unfortunately, road safety is not taken seriously by many vehicle owners and even many government officials. Roads in some places may be in very poor condition and the same can be said for many vehicles. That said, there are steps you can take to make the roadways safer —   see our guide to road safety in West Africa here .

Is it safe to travel as a solo female?

Safe? Yes. Are there challenges that simply aren’t there for dudes? Also yes.

Expect marriage proposals and unwanted attention at times. Outright harassment is often rare and will not be tolerated if witnessed by locals in the area. A firm “no” can go a long way, but sometimes you may need to shine a spotlight on the offendor, aka bring them to the attention of locals nearby.

Couchsurfing with well-reviewed hosts (can often find female hosts as well) and/or traveling with a reputable guide can go a long way to avoiding any harassment in the first place.

Health and Vaccinations

Many countries in West Africa have vaccination requirements for entry. Beyond that, there are certain vaccinations you will want to have anyway. Often, Yellow Fever is the only immunization that is required for entry, but sometimes countries require meningitis as well. For all the details on what shots to get and where and how to get them, see our comprehensive article on the subject  here .

In the meantime, here is the list of what you should have:

  • Routine vaccinations   – these would include tetanus, polio, measles, mumps, rubella (MMR, comes in 1 shot), varicella (if you haven’t already had chickenpox), hepatitis A and hepatitis B.
  • Yellow Fever   – increasingly rare disease, but the vaccination is commonly required for entry into most West Africa countries.
  • Meningitis   (meningococcal disease) – Much of West Africa falls in the meningitis belt and even though not every country in the region requires it, you would be wise to get this vaccination as it is a potentially fatal illness.
  • Typhoid   – Not required for entry into any country, but it is highly recommended.
  • Rabies   – Recommended if you plan on spending extensive time around animals.

Again, for more details on immunizations for West Africa, see   here .

Malaria is endemic throughout West Africa. While there is no vaccine available, there are prophylactics that you can take to prevent it. It is important that you have a travel health consultation before traveling to decide your course of action on this.

You can read our take on malaria in this post ,   where we talk about different prophylactic options and general prevention tactics. We also discuss treatment in that article and what you should carry as an emergency standby.

In that article, we explain all the options and talk about some choices we have made in the past, but choosing a prophylactic or choosing not to take them is something that should be discussed between you and your doctor.

What to Pack

Many people are under the impression that a trip to Africa must involve over-the-top safari gear. You know, khaki bush jackets, moisture wicking pants and all that crap. You are welcome to bring safari gear of course, but there’s really no reason to do so. For one, West Africa is known less for its game reserves than it is for its cultures and history.  In addition, you will probably feel like an idiot in safari gear.

Essentials (in no particular order)

  • Power adapters   – certain electronics may require converters if you are coming from the U.S. Countries in West Africa run on 220V of current. Whether you need converters or not, you may need plug adapters, such as   these . In general, the plug formats of countries follow those of the previous colonizer. For example, the outlets in Mali have the two round openings that you find in France and other parts of Europe. In Ghana, there are three pronged plugs identical to those found in the UK, etc.
  • A telephone   – if you have an unlocked phone, bring it. If you don’t have an unlocked phone, budget some money to buy one once you arrive. With a local sim card, you can easily coordinate with new friends. If you have a smartphone, apps like maps.me are incredibly helpful. For our full list of helpful apps for traveling West Africa, see   this article .
  • Bug spray   – mosquitoes are around. Bring a bit of spray as it can be hard to find here. Go for something with at least 20-30% DEET.
  • Sunscreen   – you will be somewhat near the equator, which is all you need to know.
  • Backup battery USB charger   – if you need to charge electronics, try one of these for those long voyages. Alternatively, go off the grid.
  • Water filter/purifier   – you can buy bottled or treated water just about everywhere, but if you are planning on spending a lot of time in the bush, buy a portable device that you can use for purification. Try the SteriPen Ultra.
  • Mosquito net   – most places are equipped already, but it’s not a bad idea to have your own. Here are a few.
  • First aid kit   – just in case. If you don’t want to make your own, buy a   pre-made kit .
  • Medication   – bring any prescription medication you take, along with a backup supply. You can buy most medications in pharmacies in West Africa, but you may not be able to find certain brands. Also, it’s not a bad idea to bring some over the counter medicines, like ibuprofen and an antihistamine for allergic reactions.
  • Toiletries   – you will have no problem finding toiletries when you arrive. It’s just a question of whether you are attached to certain brands and products. If that’s the case, bring your own supply from home.

Packing List for Guys

The short version:   West Africa can be quite warm. This is true. Pack plenty of short sleeve shirts (you can also have shirts cheaply made once you arrive with local fabrics and tailors). Go for cotton. Wherever you go in West Africa, you will notice that far more guys where pants rather than shorts. Pack a pair or two of jeans, but definitely bring some shorts for the hotter months. Oh, and bring a hat. Depending on the season, you may also want to bring a lightweight jacket or sweatshirt.

Packing list for Women

The short version:   dresses and skirts are your friends. Some countries are more conservative than others, and you may need to pay attention to how much skin your outfit reveals. In general, plan to dress more conservatively in the predominantly Muslim countries of Mauritania, Senegal, Mali, Niger and Burkina Faso. Certain regions of specific countries may also be more conservative than areas elsewhere in the same country (for example, northern Cote d’Ivoire and northern Ghana).

When it comes to toiletries, expect to travel with your own toilet paper. Oh, and tampons. You will struggle to find a reliable supply in most countries in West Africa. Better to come prepared.

Accommodation Tips

West Africa does not have the same number of cheap well-run hotels and hostels that you find in many developing world countries in Latin America and Asia. But there are a few gems in every country along with plenty of adventurous options, from couchsurfing and free homestays to seedy brothels to family run guesthouses. Here are a few tips:

  • Try a homestay at least once   – some people organize entire trips this way. Even if you need your private space, try to stay with a local family at least once. It could change your whole trip. We have had success with Couchsurfing.
  • Read our country guides   – in the country guides, you can find specific recommendations for lodging. We’ve stayed at these places, and we can vouch for them.
  • Certain hotels and guesthouses may offer discounts   – it never hurts to smile and ask for a price reduction. Hotels in smaller towns and villages are likely to be more flexible.
  • Avoid hotels that have hourly rates   – these hotels are more likely to be brothels. Your main concern here is cleanliness. Many of these places do not put much effort into room maintenance.
  • Profit from the wisdom of other travelers   – if you come across someone who is coming from where you are going, pick their brain for some basic travel knowledge. They may have an excellent recommendation for lodging. Join the   West Africa Travellers Facebook group   to get info directly from travelers who have been or are currently in the region.
  • Use iOverlander –  along the same lines as the above point iOverlander pools knowledge from other travelers and can help you find cheap lodging as well as bush camps and other unconventional accommodation options. Read about iOverlander and other helpful apps for West Africa here .

Food and Drink

Food in West Africa varies by country and region, but there are some similarities between multiple areas.

  • The power of the grill   – Charcoal grills are everywhere. Most grilled foods are eaten in the evening, whether it’s brochettes and kebabs or whole barbecued fish. Every country has their own take, and you should try as much as possible.
  • Lots of rice, lots of sauce   – in most West African countries, a local lunch is typically rice accompanied by a sauce that has meat or fish in it.
  • If it’s not rice, it’s probably a doughy starch   – foutou, fufu, tô, placali. These are all examples of non-rice starches that are often eaten with a sauce. Some are cassava based, others plantain, millet, etc. The starch-sauce combo has been perfected over generations. Expect a delicious, hearty meal that will keep you full for hours.
  • It can be difficult to be a vegetarian   – if you are a strict vegetarian, West Africa may present a bit of a challenge. Many dishes are prepared with fish or meat even if they are not the principal ingredients. If you make an effort, however, you can get by. Just don’t expect to be overwhelmed by the number of choices.
  • You can still find “Western” food   – in any major West African city, you can find food that could be considered “Western.” Many local dishes already incorporate aspects of Western cuisine — the influence of several hundred years of colonialism. This is why you can get a decent French vinaigrette in a random town in Togo.

What is there to do in West Africa anyway?

That’s kind of a stupid question really. Anywhere with this many cultures, climates and shear land area is going to have plenty to see and do. You’ll get specifics in the stories or tips category, along with the country guides, but here are some basics:

West Africa is not   the   place for wildlife   – Unless you are interested in birdwatching (and West Africa is indeed a great place for this), the region is not a top destination for wildlife. One notable exception is the Pendjari National Park   in northern Benin (unfortunately, there was recently a kidnapping in this park and we cannot recommend it for the moment given the proximity to the border of Burkina Faso). There are at least 1-2 worthwhile wildlife attractions in almost every country, and most parks are nowhere near as crowded as those in East and Southern Africa, but many of them are more manicured and controlled.  

Culture is West Africa’s greatest asset   – Hundreds of languages spoken, countless musical styles, specific local customs like “joking cousins” (a hilarious system in certain countries of insulting people based on their family names that’s also used to strengthen the social fabric and defuse tensions), strong communities and plenty of good things to eat. Travel slowly and you’ll find it easier to appreciate the culture here. Learn a bit of the local language. See some music. Drink a few beers in a maquis. Lounge with a family in their living room after a big lunch.

History/Archaeology   – Multiple empires flourished in West Africa before the era of colonialism. The Ashanti Kingdom in Ghana, the Dahomey Empire in Benin, the Songhai and Bambara empires in Mali and beyond. Every country is dotted with World Heritage sites, and you will rarely run into crowds of other tourists. In fact, more often than not, you will have the place to yourself.

Nightlife   – Between informal maquis (a kind of cheap outdoor bar), music venues, and flashy nightclubs, you can keep yourself busy until sunrise in most West African cities. Cities with a Muslim majority tend to be more conservative, and the venues may be more discreet, but there are always plenty of places to let loose, hear some live music or listen to a DJ and dance all night.

En brousse   – West African cities are a lot of fun. Every neighborhood offers a blend of cultures that few villages can replicate. But the village offers peace and tranquility. Stargazing on a roof as you fall asleep, playing cards in a shady courtyard, watching chickens chase piglets. All the good things.

The coast   – West Africa boasts some of the world’s best beaches. Whether it’s the untouched beaches of western Ghana and Sierra Leone or the urban beaches of Lome and Dakar, where you can enjoy a beer and people watch with the waves a few steps away. And surfing! Surfing is becoming increasingly popular from Dakar down to Ghana.

Wander   – Many places in West Africa lend themselves to wandering without a plan. Transport is cheap, and it’s easy to find yourself in casual interactions with strangers. On multiple occasions, I have arrived in villages and towns without a place to stay or even an idea of where to look. Fellow passengers on the bus or bush taxi (or whatever else) invited me to stay and eat with them. I am never worried traveling without a plan in West Africa.

Language and Culture Tips

West Africa is an incredibly rich region when it comes to language. There are reportedly over 500 languages in this corner of the continent alone. This may seem daunting to the traveler who is trying to discover the area and make connections. But most people speak multiple languages and in the urban and semi-urban areas you are sure to find lots of English, French and/or Portuguese (or Creole) speakers depending on who the former colonizer was in that country.

We strongly suggest learning some words in local languages, however. For the amount of effort involved it can disproportionately broaden your experience and can truly make all the difference when it comes to how you remember a country. Learning a few words in a language that is part of a broad family can also help you communicate and converse over the course of multiple countries. For example, if you learn some Fulani or Malinke you will always be able to find someone to chat with in a huge swath of West Africa.

In addition, if you are anglophone, it is certainly helpful to pick up some French. A large part of West Africa is Francophone and while local languages dominate, French is the language of government and official business.

Cultural Tips

  • Greet. Greet. Greet. Greetings are paramount. It is the all-important acknowledgement of those receiving you. It all starts here.
  • Some areas are conservative . These are typically predominantly Muslim and it’s usually just a question of not flaunting transgressions of cultural norms. For example, drinking beer out in the open in skimpy dress. In some places e.g. Bissau, you almost feel out of place for not drinking beer in skimpy dress. Research ahead of time and ask the locals when you are there.
  • Respect your elders. That older gentleman that tried to overcharge you? Take a deep breath before you go to town on him. This rule is true anywhere, but it is particularly important in West Africa.
  • Keep yourself in check . To that end, try to stay calm and collected even if you feel like you are being wronged. Anger won’t get you anywhere and it is a really bad look as a guest in a country.   

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Lonely Africa

20 Best Places to Visit in West Africa

by Lonely Africa Editors | Africa

Best Places to Visit in West Africa

Apr 15, 2022

A tour of West Africa is one of the most fascinating experiences a tourist can have. West Africa, I tell you, is home to some of Africa’s most aesthetic landscapes, people, art, and architecture. To get the best out of a visit here, you have got to visit these 20 places in West Africa.

1. The Pendjari National Park, Benin Republic

The Pendjari National Park is one of the biggest parks in West Africa. It lies in the North of the Benin Republic and spans up to 275,000 hectares. Here, the last number of elephants, African Buffalos, etc., are groomed. This park has once been nominated to be enlisted in the UNESCO list of world heritage sites. 

Tourists are welcome to walk around the park, coming face to face with different forms of wildlife and vegetation. Here, you will take some of the most memorable photographs ever. 

View on Map

2. Sine-Saloum Delta, Senegal

travel to west africa

I am telling you, you have just got to visit here—to see for yourself the breathtaking landscape of Sine-Saloum Delta. 

The Sine-Saloum Delta in Senegal is an area that consists of mangrove forests and islands, and lagoons. 

Tourists who come here are fascinated by many things, including a ride to a spot from where pelicans can be spotted. 

3. The Ruins of Loropeni, Burkina Faso

The ruins of Loropeni, found in Burkina Faso, are believed to be up to a thousand years old. It was the first site in Burkina Faso to make listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The ruins of Loropeni tell a story of the gold trade across the Sahara. Tourists are welcome to tour around this site, guided by tours. The experience is nothing short of breathtaking. 

4. Fogo, Cape Verde

Fogo is an elevated island city in the small country of Cape Verde. The name Fogo translates to ‘Fire.’ The island stretches up to 476 sq. km. and reaches up to 2,829 meters tall. 

Fogo is called Fogo because its highest point—its summit—features an active volcano. It is one of the places to visit in West Africa if you love to explore the highlands.

Tourists are allowed to climb the highland and take breathtaking pictures. 

5. Basilica of our Lady of Peace, Ivory Coast

This is one of the largest Catholic cathedrals in the world and stands in all its glory in the capital city of Ivory Coast, Yamoussoukro. 

This church can contain up to 18,000 congregants!

The sight is simply breathtaking. 

If you are looking for the best places to visit in West Africa, then visit the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace on a Sunday morning and have you full of awe. 

6. Kotu Beach, Gambia

Best Places to Visit in West Africa - Kotu Beach

You can’t leave Kotu Beach out of a list of the most relaxing, warmest places to visit in West Africa. Located on the Atlantic coast of Gambia, a holiday here can offer you the healing you need. 

Since the area welcomes a large number of tourists every year, there have over the years been improvements. You find the best hotels here, restaurants, and bars. 

You are welcome to sit on the beach and watch the water during the day. You can have picnics here also, making memories and bonding with your family. 

7. St. George’s Castle, Ghana

Visit Elmina Castle Ghana

This ancient architecture is also called the Elmina Castle because it stands in a Ghanaian City called Elmina. It is amongst the oldest existing buildings in West Africa, having white-washed walls. 

The Elmina Castle tells the story of colonialism in Ghana. From here, colonial masters conducted trade. 

Read: Fascinating Facts About Ghana

A visit here will have you appreciating the landscape and the waters. The Elmina castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

8. Fouta Djallon Highlands, Guinea

This is one of the most beautiful places in Guinea and one of the most visited in West Africa. 

Djallon Highlands sits in the heart of Guinea and comprises hills, valleys, and rocks. Visitors are welcome to hike this highland. 

From a high point here, one can overlook waters including Gambia, Senegal, etc. The view is nothing short of aesthetic and calming. 

9. Bubaque Island, Guinea-Bissau

Bubaque Island is one of the islands that make up the Bijagós Islands in Guinea-Bissau. 

This island is a must-visit when one plans to visit West Africa. From here, one gets a view of the community, the waters, and the fishermen.

The Bubaque Island Hotel, which stands on the Bubaque Island, is one of the most prominent hotels in the country, and a treat here is as calming as it gets. 

You get to eat the most exquisite meals if you visit here. 

10. Buchanan, Liberia

Buchanan is a city in Liberia three hours away from Liberia’s capital city. It is the third-largest city in Liberia and a welcome place for tourists.

A visit here brings you face to face to what a beautiful coast life in West Africa looks like. You get to see the beach, watch the water, and lodge in the best of hotels in Liberia. 

Hotel Buchanan Liberia stands here. From this hotel, you can have a clear view of the water. The weather is not harsh at all. 

11. Lake Retba, Senegal

Beautiful Tourist attraction site to go in Africa - Lake Retba

Lake Retba, a red lake, is one of the fascinating sites in Africa. Not just West Africa. Africa as a whole. 

This lake is about 18 miles away from the capital city of Senegal. 

Tourists are welcome to watch the water, which changes color depending on the time of the day one views it. 

Lake Retba is so buoyant, thanks to its salt content, that one can float on the water!

12. The Great Mosque of Djenne

This is no doubt one of the most astonishing religious buildings in West Africa and a must-visit for tourists. It stands in Djenne, a city in Mali. 

The Mosque is the product of an old but effective architectural design. It is made from brick and stands many feet tall.

This Mosque is one of the wonders of Africa and will sure have any tourist gasping in wonder. 

13. Chinguetti, Mauritania

This site, a ksar located deep in the desert areas of Mauritania, brings lots and lots of tourists to West Africa. 

It is an old town that has now been eroded and made not-so-inhabitable. 

Chinguetti was built in the 13th century. 

Tourists who visit here come face to face with the old buildings that used to buzz with people at some time in history.

Chinguetti makes up a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

14. Zinder, Niger

Zinder is the third-largest city in the Niger Republic. The city is a buzzing city characterized by a network of beautiful roads and an array of astonishing buildings. 

In this city, the Sultan’s palace stands in its glory. 

Visitors are welcome to visit this palace—to have a taste of the Saharan experience. 

15. Lekki Conservation Centre, Nigeria

Best places to visit in West Africa - Lekki Conservation Centre, Nigeria

Lekki conversation center sits in one of the busiest and most populated cities in Africa, Lagos, and is amongst the best places to visit in West Africa. 

One stops at Lagos and is first astonished by the busyness of the city. Then, one takes a stop at Lekki Conservation Centre, a quiet place to forget the bustling outside. 

Read: Fascinating Facts About Nigeria

The Lekki conservation center has been running for about 23 years. 

Here, one comes face to face with nature and walks across the longest canopy walk in West Africa. 

16. Lompoul Desert, Senegal

This is a small and very beautiful desert in Senegal. It stretches only about 18 sq. km. 

The most beautiful thing about this dessert, the very thing that has put it on this list of places to visit in West Africa, is the presence of orange sand dunes. 

These sand dunes are breath-taking in every possible way. If you are a lover of desserts, be here! You´ll find it very thrilling.

17. Banana Island, Sierra Leone

Banana Island is one of the most visited places in Sierra Leone and a recommended place to spend a holiday with your family in West Africa. 

Banana Island features a rich landscape, and a visit here offers tourists the chance to engage in some of the most memorable experiences there are. 

When you visit here, you get the chance to engage in sports, fishing, scuba diving, watching whales, and other water sports.

18. Tamberma Villages, Togo

A visit to Tamberma Villages in Togo offers you the true African experience and nothing short of this. This is why it is one of the most visited places in West Africa. 

Take a trip down here and spend days and maybe even weeks with the friendly locals, who live in houses made of straw. 

Many tourists describe a visit to Tamberma as calming.

19. Ganvie, Benin

Ganvie is a small village in the Benin Republic, surrounded by water. The village is, in fact, a wonder. Every building here is built on water and is suspended in the air by large sticks that reach into the depths of the water. 

A visit here is likened to taking a visit to where everything rests. 

The village is so calm, and the view offered is nothing that won’t make your jaw drop. 

Have a taste of the food prepared by the locals, and listen to folklore. 

20. Olumo Rock, Nigeria

This rocky mountain is located in Ogun State in the South-West of Nigeria. 

The area has a rich cultural heritage—the rock was believed to be a fortress for the inhabitants of the area during an old war. 

Olumo rock is a must-visit for tourists who are fine with hiking. 

The Yorubas, who form a majority of the population around Olumo Rock, are friendly people who practice a wide variety of arts and crafts.

Other Interesting Reads: The Best Tourist Destination in Africa Pros and Cons of Living in Africa List of the Most Beautiful Women of Africa by Country Fascinating Facts About Africa

travel to west africa

By Lonely Africa Editors

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West Africa

travel to west africa

  • 1 Countries
  • 3 Other destinations
  • 4.1 History
  • 4.2 Climate
  • 7.2 By train
  • 8.1 Historical
  • 8.2 Cultural and religious
  • 8.3 Natural
  • 8.4 Beaches
  • 13.1 Disease
  • 14.1 Traffic
  • 14.3 Political instability

West Africa is the most densely populated area of Africa . It is in many ways both the continent's most difficult place for travel and potentially its most rewarding.

Countries [ edit ]

travel to west africa

Sometimes Mauritania , Mali , Niger , and Chad are also considered as West African states.

Cities [ edit ]

  • 5.336389 -4.026667 1 Abidjan — the largest city in Cote d'Ivoire , still a West African nightlife hotspot, despite the country's political instability
  • 9.055556 7.491389 2 Abuja — the purpose-built government capital of Nigeria is attractive, and remarkably safe!
  • 5.533333 -0.216667 3 Accra — an incoherent jumble of a city, the capital of Ghana , and one of the most accessible cities in West Africa for travellers
  • 6.366667 2.416667 4 Cotonou — Benin 's big non-capital has the feel of a West African, urban version of the Wild West; you can buy anything at a city that is essentially an enormous, lawless (but reasonably safe) market town, and dirt cheap "Rolexes" of questionable origin and voodoo charms remain popular items for travellers
  • 14.731944 -17.457222 5 Dakar — the capital of Senegal and the westernmost city in Africa
  • 6.45 3.4 6 Lagos — the largest city in Nigeria and the second largest in the whole of Africa is a city bursting with energy. With over 15 million inhabitants, it is considered to be like the New York of Africa where you can find anything you are looking for
  • 6.131944 1.222778 7 Lomé — Togo 's bustling capital, somewhat unfairly disliked by travellers, and possibly the moto-taxi capital of the world.
  • 12.368611 -1.5275 8 Ouagadougou — the capital of Burkina Faso

Other destinations [ edit ]

travel to west africa

  • 11.25 -16.083333 1 Bijagos Islands — an archipelago of some twenty tropical, beautiful islands in Guinea Bissau with French-owned fishing lodges.
  • 8.3735 -13.2529 2 Freetown Peninsula's beaches — are these paradisiacal-looking beaches, each with an utterly unique appearance and culture, the most beautiful in the world?
  • 6.466667 2.416667 3 Ganvie — absurdly named the "Venice of Africa," this stilt village, at the centre of a large lake, is more of a stilt city, and offers one of the strangest photo opportunities you'll ever have.
  • 11.11 -12.54 4 Moyenne Guinee ( Fouta Djallon ) — hills and mountains in the interior of Guinea with a relatively cool climate, the home of the Pular people and sometimes called the "Switzerland of Africa."
  • 12.76 -12.77 5 Niokolo-Koba — the largest National Park in Senegal .
  • 5.75 -7.12 6 Taï National Park — the largest remaining intact portion of the once great Upper Guinea Rainforest is home to the world's last viable population of pygmy hippopotami, as well as numerous rare monkeys, chimps, rare forest elephants, and other rare animals.
  • Tamberma Valley — Togo 's somehow completely unknown answer to Mali 's Dogon Country ; an expansive, beautiful, mountainous region filled with surreal villages of improbable mud/clay fortresses, and culture barely touched by modernity.
  • 12 2.5 7 W National Park — a large, trans-border system of national parks, with parts in Benin , Burkina Faso and Niger , which offers the best opportunities for wildlife spotting in West Africa.
  • 9.3 10.5 8 Yankari National Park — the largest National Park in Nigeria , and the most visited of all the parks in the region.

Understand [ edit ]

West Africa is bounded in the north by the Sahel , and in the south and west by the Atlantic Ocean .

History [ edit ]

West Africa has gone through different periods of history; in prehistoric times, the region was first settled by humans who developed agriculture and made contact with peoples in the north. From the Iron Age, empires arose and developed trade. In the Atlantic slave trade , it experienced a flourishing of polities which underwent extensive contact with Europeans. In colonial times, Britain and France nearly controlled the entire region and since the post-independence era, many current African nations were formed.

Climate [ edit ]

Talk [ edit ].

West Africa is home to thousands of languages and dialects native to the region. However, due to the influence of European colonizers, a common language spoken in the region is English, another commonly spoken language is French, and some regions speak Portuguese.

Get in [ edit ]

The African highways connect many cities in West Africa with Nigeria being the main hub.

Flying from other African cities can be unsafe as many airlines have a very poor safety record. Check this first before choosing to fly with an airline.

In order of size here are the main airline hubs.

  • Lagos Airport - Several flights per day to London. Less frequent flights also to other main cities in Europe
  • Dakar Airport - Many flights to Milan, Madrid, Brussels and Paris
  • Accra Airport - Many flights to UK (Manchester, London, Glasgow) as well as Frankfurt.
  • Abidjan Airport - Flights to Paris, Brussels and Dubai

Get around [ edit ]

Generally it takes time - and a whole lot of patience - to move around in West Africa. The roads are not all in great conditions and many roads aren't paved. Always be sure to have an extra day or two in the end if you are going somewhere since planning is very hard when the transport is unreliable.

By bus [ edit ]

ABC Transport runs daily coach services between Lagos and Accra , Cotonou and Lomé .

By train [ edit ]

Railway services are extremely limited in West Africa. The only country with a somewhat functioning railway system is Nigeria where passenger trains connects the largest cities. Outside Nigeria, the only long distance passenger service operates 1-2 times per week between Ouagadougou , the capital of Burkina Faso and Abidjan in Côte d'Ivoire .

See [ edit ]

travel to west africa

Well, there actually isn't too much to see here! Visitors who focus on sightseeing will find themselves experiencing a lot of hardship with pretty small payoffs. A common traveller complaint is of spending the whole trip in miserable bush taxis! The big game animals of the rest of Sub-Saharan Africa are absent; the majestic ruins of North and East Africa likewise are nowhere to be found. Many would argue that time spent searching for "attractions" would be better spent getting to know the people you are visiting, engaging in a real and meaningful cultural exchange: starting to understand their history, religious practice, and way of seeing the world, and sharing a bit of your own.

We're all travellers here, though: it's hard to stay in one place, and chasing down sights is a good way to slake wanderlust.

Historical [ edit ]

Historical monuments dating back past the arrival of Europeans in the region are few and far between. Tropical weather took its toll upon the larger structures built by old kingdoms and empires, and those that survived the weather often were destroyed with some incredible violence by European invaders (the destruction of Benin City in Nigeria being a prominent example). The most notable structures of African past would likely be the enormous collection of ramparts, walls, and ditches at the ancient fortress of Sungbo's Eredo, less than 20 miles from Lagos (and the largest pre-colonial monument in the whole of the continent), and the palaces of the Dahomey Empire in Abomey , Benin . Also in Nigeria, Kano holds much interest (and is generally one of the most pleasant places for a tourist to visit in the country) as the seat of the historical Empire of Kano, with the Emir's palace (in addition to other sixteenth century sites around the city) being fully intact, albeit much renovated throughout the centuries.

travel to west africa

Many of the sites of significant historical interest in West Africa are European-built. The terrifying slave castles of the Ghanaian coast (most famously at Elmina and Cape Coast ) are imposing on their own for their massive size and seaside locations, but their importance to the history of the modern world cannot be overstated, and are a must-see for anyone in the region. Sites of importance to the slave trade are hardly limited to the charismatic forts of Ghana, though, with prominent sites near Dakar , Conakry , Ouidah , aforementioned Abomey , Porto-Novo , and Freetown (with sites especially important to the slave trade to the United States in Freetown).

Modern Africa has ramped up its production of monument-building, epitomized by the colossal African Renaissance Monument outside Dakar , intended to challenge perceived foreign perceptions of African as an inferior backwater. Other monuments, such as the Arch 22 in Gambia , the Nkrumah Mausoleum and Independence Square in Accra , and others throughout the region's national capitals are more concerned with less lofty ideals of good old fashioned national greatness and deification of post-colonial leaders.

Cultural and religious [ edit ]

travel to west africa

The cultures of West Africa are deeply religious, and much of the cultural life and monuments revolve around spirituality. Of Muslim architecture , most travellers find the mud-built Sudano-Sahelian mosques to be of the most interest. The region's most famous, both of the Volta basin style, include Larabanga Mosque just outside Mole National Park in Ghana and the Grand Mosque of Bobo-Dioulasso . A bit less unique, but still impressive, are the capital-type, modern grand mosques in Abuja , Lagos , Ouagadougou , and other major cities in the region.

For Christian architecture , the most obvious place to visit is the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace in Yamoussoukro . The basilica is in fact the largest church in the world, ahead of Saint Peter's Cathedral in the Vatican , from which its more modern design draws inspiration. Other interesting Christian buildings include the curiously mosque-like Dakar Cathedral and the strikingly modern St Paul's Cathedral in Abidjan .

But while you can go almost anywhere in the world to see great works of Christian and Muslim architecture, interested travellers should take advantage of West Africa's identity as the wellspring of Voodoo. Benin is the spiritual homeland of Voodoo (which shares much in common with traditional religious beliefs throughout West Africa) and neighboring Togo is another centre of widespread Vodun practice. Cotonou 's Grande Marche du Dantopka is the world's epicentre for purchasing Voodoo fetishes, full of monkey skulls, lion paws, and all sorts of other less offensive charms. Lomé's Marche de Feticheurs is likely the second biggest fetish market in Africa, albeit a bit more touristy: They charge for admission! Voodoo is a bit more occulted in Ghana and Nigeria, but still very much present (try searching Jamestown in Accra for the "timber market"). Shrine-like Voodoo fetishes are scattered throughout Togo and Benin, with the largest being Dankoli fetish near Savalou . Togoville is the hub of Voodoo practice in Togo, and its fetishes and shrines are unusually juxtaposed against its large cathedral, which was visited by the Pope in 1986.

Ghana is also a rewarding destination for those interested in local religious and cultural beliefs. The Ashanti region around Kumasi is dotted with shrines.

Natural [ edit ]

Despite a large number of national parks , tourism in the wild is elusive in Africa's most crowded region. Moreover, a large number of West Africa's protected areas are in dire straights, undermined by political conflict and lawlessness, either current or historical. The most visited parks are those that are easiest to reach, in countries with decent transportation infrastructure. Ghana's Kakum National Park is in all honesty not that impressive, but is just off the main coastal road, and is extremely popular. Ghana's northern Mole National Park , on the other hand, is harder to get to, but still popular for its superior wildlife viewing opportunities. Nigeria 's Yankari National Park similarly has good tourist infrastructure, and has actually become one of the top tourist destinations in the country. While none of Gambia 's national parks has taken off as a standout tourist destination, the ease and popularity of visiting has made trips on the Gambia river a prime eco-tourism and birding activity.

Further afield, Taï National Park in Côte d'Ivoire is an incredible refuge of West Africa's once great biodiverse tropical rainforest. While the country's instability has made it more difficult to visit, it remains the country's most accessible. The trans-border W National Park is the region's highlight, but it is far enough off the main transportation grid to keep it quietly off the beaten path. Niokolo-Koba National Park is a great place for wildlife spotting in Senegal , but its remote southeastern location keeps the tourists away.

travel to west africa

If you really want to get off-the-beaten-path, prepare for some serious adventuring. Tiwai Island , a refuge teeming with numerous rare monkey species, as well as the occasional pygmy hippopotamus, is theoretically not so hard to reach, but Sierra Leone is hard enough to get to, and you will need some serious time to get there and do it justice. The biosphere reserve of the Bijagos Islands is similarly well set up for a visit, but it's just hard to get there, in rarely visited Guinea-Bissau . For the truly adventurous (or simply insane), Sapo National Park is in a terribly dangerous section of Liberia , requires a permit to visit (and is visited almost only by poachers), has no paths or roads, and no accommodations in or near the park. But it is a great refuge of West Africa's remaining tropical rainforest and its most rare species: forest elephants, pygmy hippopotami, monkeys, chimpanzees, et al.

Beaches [ edit ]

West Africa is home to some incredible, mind-blowingly beautiful beaches, and they are not always where you would expect. Gambia , Cape Verde , and to a somewhat lesser extent Senegal are well known and well developed tropical beach destinations. But the most beautiful beaches (OK, don't tell Cape Verdeans this) are at Africa's westernmost point: Liberia and above all Sierra Leone , home to what are possibly the most beautiful beaches in the world. And, of course, Sierra Leonean and Liberian beaches are emphatically not overdeveloped—you will often have them to yourself, or share them with a few busy fishermen!

Beach duds, unfortunately, crop up in the Gulf of Guinea, where locals do not respect their coast's great natural beauty. (Granted, eking out a decent existence in these poor countries often seems a greater priority.) The beaches anywhere near towns and cities are heavily littered, and are used as a toilet, filling the water with squishy feces. The beaches are also very dangerous in this region, both for being the home of the respective countries' highest rates of violent crime, and very strong currents. Of course, there are notable exceptions, particularly in the sparsely populated regions of western Ghana.

Do [ edit ]

Buy [ edit ], eat [ edit ].

travel to west africa

West African food doesn't seem to be for everyone, but those who like it love it. The staple dishes are starch plus some version of soup. Rice is the most popular starch, but fufu —a thick paste, with the rough consistency of soft play-dough, usually made by boiling starchy root vegetables in water and pounding with a mortar and pestle—and other similar pastes are a more interesting alternative. Fufu and its cousins should be eaten with the right hand, and usually dipped in the sauce, stew, or soup provided. Simple "chop bars" (there are plenty of different names for this common phenomenon) nearly always provide this recipe, plus some chicken or fish.

Street food is delicious, multifarious, and dirt cheap. Unfortunately, problems with sanitation make this food a bit more unsafe than those found in chop bar-style spots and restaurants, for the straightforward reason that you aren't sure when it was cooked! Items that you see cooked, items that require peeling (e.g., eggs, coconuts, bananas, etc.), or items wrapped immediately after cooking (like bread) are safe.

Restaurants in cities are very skewed towards European dishes, and tend to treat African food like a poor man's diet. The Francophone countries often have a few excellent French restaurants hidden in the larger cities. What constitutes a "restaurant," though, is malleable. The restaurant could potentially be just a log for sitting, and be defined a "restaurant" simply by dint of having more than three dishes available.

Drink [ edit ]

Make sure your water bottles are sealed and not just refilled with tap water. It can be hard to see until you actually test the top, but people are generally honest about this sort of thing. Many travellers try to go for the locally produced mineral water, rather than those produced by foreign corporations, since local economies need all the help they can get.

"Pure water" is also widely available in guaranteed-sanitary sachets sold on the street, usually for less than 5¢, and is a great way to make sure you stay hydrated in the hot climate. Coconuts in most of these countries are also omnipresent, and street vendors will take off the top with a machete for a tasty drink.

Lagers, non-alcoholic malts, and some weird beverage masquerading as "Guinness" are among the more popular beverages you will run across. Voodoo priests and chiefs seem to prefer Schnaps. For harder stuff, look around for palm wine and gin sachets (which mix well with sprite, or more foolishly, palm wine).

Stay healthy [ edit ]

Disease [ edit ].

travel to west africa

As far as disease goes, West Africa is the most dangerous place on the planet. It is probably the one place on earth where you should go to extremes to protect yourself from mosquitoes . Do not sleep without a net and do not go without malaria medicine. If you develop symptoms, go to a clinic immediately to make sure of whether you need treatment. Malaria is about as common here as a runny nose, and the worst strain (which is by no means uncommon) can kill you in 24 hours. The parasite will likely live with you for the rest of your days as well, with high risk of recurrence. There is no vaccine.

There are plenty of other scary tropical diseases to protect yourself from in this region. The big dangers for which there is no vaccine available include common dengue fever and Schistosomiasis, various other creepy parasites, Lassa fever, river blindness, and the Ebola virus. The last of these is usually rare, but in 2013-16 there was an Ebola epidemic in several countries in the region with almost 30,000 cases, more than a third of which died.

Many diseases, happily, can be prevented via vaccination . Visit a travel clinic before travelling to the region to find out exactly which immunizations you will need, preferably giving yourself ample time to get the shots taken care of! You need a yellow-fever vaccination to enter most (if not all) of these countries. Rabies vaccination is generally considered optional, but it is a terrible disease to get, with 100% mortality if untreated, and you're most likely to contract it far away from decent medical services.

Stay safe [ edit ]

Traffic [ edit ].

Are the dangers posed by road travel really greater in West Africa than the rest of the developing world? Yes, probably. Travel by boat is notoriously unsafe throughout the region as well. Traffic accidents kill more travellers than disease in West Africa. There isn't a whole lot you can do about this, unfortunately. The most important step to take is to avoid overland travel after dark. Other steps available to those travelling more luxuriously would be to get a trusted driver with a larger 4WD vehicle, and to just generally avoid the rickety minivan bush taxis driven by fatalistic maniacs. Moto-taxis are quite unsafe as well (if often by far more convenient than any other form of transportation...).

Crime [ edit ]

In West Africa as a whole: While mugging and pick pocketing do occur, it is much more common that locals will talk you out of your money. This can include putting you in situations where you have to pay for their food, etc., charging you way more than they should (especially for cab rides), charging you a service fee for being the middle man in a transaction that you can (and may even be trying to) do yourself, asking for bribes for doing their job, police fining you for doing something "illegal" when in reality it is perfectly legal, claiming there is a problem with your visa or that your luggage is overweight and charging you to fix it, etc. As long as you are observant and knowledgeable, you should be able to avoid most of these scams.

Women: It is recommended that any women travellers say that they are married, regardless of actual marital status. It is helpful to also wear a ring (just not one that looks too expensive. Women should realize that cultural differences may result in what they would consider harassment and it is not uncommon to be followed, grabbed by the arm, etc. Be firm in turning down men, and don't be afraid to stand your ground (cultural differences or not, it doesn't make it ok!).

Nightlife: West Africa has some great clubs and bars, but be aware that nearly all of the women that frequent these places are prostitutes (regardless of what they claim- you won't find out until after you've taken her home and she asks you to pay her).

Political instability [ edit ]

West Africa has been a volatile region, and is, alas, still a volatile region. There have been incidents of jihadist activity in Northern Nigeria , particularly by Boko Haram. Some jihadist groups cooperate with one another.

Go next [ edit ]

You can proceed to South America by plane or boat, or go to the Sahel region of Africa.

If you are in Nigeria , you can proceed into Central Africa to the country of Cameroon .

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The Pilot Who Explores

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The Ultimate One Month West Africa Itinerary

Corrupt and complicated, complex and challenging, West Africa is often discarded as an unworthy travel destination. But in reality, it’s one of the world’s last true hidden gems and a treasure for those willing to give it a chance.

A note for those that have read my other itineraries : this one is one of my most comprehensive, detailed ones. Please enjoy.

Why you need to visit West Africa and what it’s known for

An epiphany of vibrant culture, genuine people, beautiful scenery, incredible ingenuity, and surprising variety, there’s enough to savor here for years. But let’s start with a month for now.

The most incredible thing about West Africa is its diversity. Countries mere kilometers wide, such as The Gambia , offer vastly different cultures and ways of life than even their next door neighbors.

A multitude of surprisingly distinct ethnicities mix, mingle, and cohabitate amongst each other in some countries. In others like Guinea-Bissau , the culture is much more homogenous and unique. And all of this in countries smaller than most states in the USA.

Although West Africa is notoriously complicated to travel, a little preparation goes far . Even during COVID-19, we managed to make our way across much of the region almost unimpeded. I say almost – as we did almost get arrested crossing the border from Senegal into The Gambia.

The five top countries you need to visit in West Africa

Although West Africa isn’t geographically large, it is extremely dense and filled with things to see.

You’ll find that even with just the included countries, your days will be filled with rich, rewarding experiences and you won’t regret seeing more.

This itinerary will include the highlights, along with optional excursions for those with a little or time (or planning to skip some countries).

  • Guinea-Bissau

Cabo Verde: One Week in West Africa’s Paradise Archipelago

The first country you should visit if you have one month in West Africa is Cabo (Cape) Verde , a fascinating and rich archipelago of surprising beauty.

From massive, active volcanos to some of the best kitesurfing in the world , you’ll never be bored in Cabo Verde.

More importantly, the culture and ethnicities are very unique and homogenous. The people here are incredibly friendly, warm, and welcoming. And there’s a fascinating history to learn about regarding the Portuguese colonization and slave trading.

Cabo Verde Travel Restrictions

Recently changed, this also applies to vaccinated and recovered people.

Getting to Cabo Verde

With convenient flight connections from many cities in Europe, such as:

  • Lisbon , Portugal (LIS) with TAP Air Portugal
  • Ponta Delgada, Azores (PDL) with SATA
  • Luxembourg (LUX) with LuxAir
  • Zurich , Switzerland (ZRH) with Edelweiss

You’ll find it very accessible.

For Americans reading, it’s easy (and cheap) connecting in Europe, but there are also relatively cheap options connecting in

  • Dakar , Senegal (Air Senegal)
  • Morocco (Royal Air Morocco)

The Ultimate 1-Week Cabo Verde Experience

To really get a good taste of these intriguing islands, plan to go island hopping! Some of the islands you should visit include:

  • Santo Antão
  • São Vicente

Here’s everything you need to know before spending a week in Cabo Verde .

Every activity you don’t want to miss out on in Cabo Verde

  • Kitesurfing on Sal’s pristine white beaches
  • Trekking/hiking between colorful, colonial towns on Santo Antão’s mind blowing volcanic north shore
  • Diving on some of the coolest ship wrecks off of Santa Maria
  • Swimming in the natural pools and volcanic beaches of Tarrafal , Santiago
  • Enjoying the freshest Tuna of your life
  • Visiting a local art shop and abandoned airport in Ponta do Sol

BestFly is the local airline providing convenient ATR72 Turboprop service between the islands.

There is also a local boat ferry called CVInterilhas, more convenient for the islands closer to each other. Here’s how we got around Cabo Verde .

Senegal: 5 Days of Fascinating West African History

You’ll fly from Praia, Santiago (the capital of Cabo Verde) to Dakar, Senegal on Air Senegal . They have flights connecting these cities at least 5 times a week.

Senegal Travel Restrictions

To enter Senegal, you’ll need either :

  • Proof of being fully vaccinated
  • Negative PCR results within 5 days

Masks are worn on and off, although technically “required”.

First stop: Dakar and it’s surrounding rich history (2-3 Days)

As the westernmost peninsula of continental Africa, Dakar has historically served as a hub of imports and exports – and that (unfortunately) made it a massive center during the slave trade era.

But that’s what makes Dakar so important for you to visit. There’s no better way to get a real sense of the atrocities and monstrosities committed by European colonizers not-so-long-ago, and no better way to learn from it and pay homage to the victims of history.

Some of the must-see places in Dakar include:

  • Ile de Gorée, a UNESCO world heritage site and one of the most beautiful islands in all of West Africa
  • Ile de Ngor , which was very important during the slave trade era
  • The Marché Soumbédienne , a market filled with characteristic and authentic local art
  • The “Lac Rose”, or Lake Retba , a pink lake just north of the city

And for those who are inclined to surf, the coast of Senegal is known for its world-renowned surf. It’s a great way to meet locals and enjoy the wonderful scenery.

Where to stay in Dakar, Senegal

We recommend staying in the heart of town, Dakar Plateau , where you’ll find an ample number of great restaurants and hotels. Plus convenient transportation (taxi and ferry) options.

Our hotel of choice in Dakar was the Union Amicale des Corses , renowned for its epic poolside waterfront views of the Bay and excellent customer service.

Optional day trips from Dakar: Touba, Saint Louis, Loumpoul

Those looking to explore a little more of Senegal’s rich history should endeavor to make a day trip (or longer) to the gorgeous Islamic city of Touba , with its elegant mosques and interesting city markets. There’s an annual ‘magal’, or religious pilgrimage here every year.

Saint Louis , another UNESCO World Heritage site, is a very historical town in the north that also played a huge role in slave trade. It’s a wonderful place to meet locals and hear about the fascinating, turbulent history of Senegal. It’s known for its colonial buildings and Faidherbe Bridge preserved from the late 1800s.

Between Dakar and Saint Louis, you should visit the quaint fisherman town of Mboro Kandio , where you can buy incredibly beautiful clothing made of rich fabrics.

There’s also the desert of Loumpoul , known for its orange sand dunes forming a landscape that is more akin to that of the Sahara and Mauritania than of the surrounding area of Senegal.

The best way to get around Senegal: Sept-Place

For those looking to experience the real authentic side of Senegal, head to the Gare Routiere de Dakar by taxi and take a Sept-Place .

The “Sept-Place” is Senegal’s answer to public transportation, private 7-seater old Peugeot station wagons turned into public taxis. You can go anywhere with these for cheap.

For those not willing to squeeze themselves in a small, old station wagon with 6 strangers, worry not. It’s possible to pay for more seats, such as an entire row or even the entire Sept-Place!

Every town has a “Gare Routiere” – or “road station”, like a bus station or train station but for Sept-Place and other shared vans.

The quicker way to get around Senegal: private transportation

It’s also possible and quite easy to book a private taxi or shuttle to get around the country.

You’ll pay much, much more than for a Sept-Place, but you won’t be encumbered by frequent stops, slow driving, no air conditioning (meaning open windows and tons of dust), and general discomfort.

Senegal Shuttle has a convenient website to order a private shuttle which we actually used several times. Alternately, most hotels can arrange or explain transportation for you.

What you need to see on your way from Dakar to The Gambia

We’re headed towards The Gambia, but there’s a lot more to see on this side of Senegal, such as:

  • The Réserve Naturelle de Popenguine , with its ecosystem of gorgeous cliffs and untouched besches
  • The Foret de Bandia , a safari park with giraffes, rhinoceroses, zebras & other wildlife
  • Saly , a hotspot of local tourism catering to French sunbathers and fishing enthusiasts

And lastly, Delta du Saloum – which you won’t want to miss.

The Delta du Saloum: Senegalese paradise

We had tons of fun making a pitstop at the Delta du Saloum . Its the best place to enjoy an incredible array of rivers, marshlands, salt pools, vibrant villages, and jungle lodges – all in one placd.

The Hakuna Lodge was our accomodation of choice – and only accessible by boat (speedboat or local Senegalese pirogue). This was the ultimate place to relax, so estranged from society and intertwined with nature. Plus the service, food, and activities here are top notch.

On the way, make sure to stop at the Baobab Sacré , a really authentic little market off the road hidden under an amazing, ancient, sacred Baobab Tree.

How to cross the land border from Senegal into The Gambia (Keur Ayip crossing)

Though most people are inclined to cross the border from Senegal into The Gambia at Karang on their way to Serrekunda, we decided to go the “back route” through Keur Ayip for a truer experience of The Gambia’s wild side.

We ended up taking a private taxi to the border, walking across and completing all formalities, then taking a taxi on the other side.

The fee on The Gambian side for a visa on arrival is 3000 Dalasi , equivalent to about $60 USD. If you do not have Dalasi, expect to have to negotiate exchange rates with the customs agent. You will likely be asked for 40000 CFA.

There is a sort of exchange office before you reach the customs area that has decent exchange rates, slightly better than you can negotiate with the customs officers.

How we almost got detained crossing into The Gambia

Funny story, actually.

My partner wanted to document the process of crossing a land border in West Africa. This involved taking some footage. Naturally, she wanted everything to appear candid, so she did not ask before filming.

This was a very bad idea, as instead of cameras, there are unmarked officers all over watching you at all times.

We spent about an hour begging them not to confiscate her brand new iPhone, or format it. After all, she had about 15000 photos and videos of her travels around the world that were not saved anywhere else.

After she completely deleted all the footage, and after much, much pleading, they finally let us through.It was such an insane relief. And in the end, they even let us take selfies together!

So, definitely don’t take photos or videos when dealing with customs in West Africa!

The Gambia: 3 days exploring this jewel of relaxation in the hustle and bustle of West Africa

Though there are plenty of inexpensive bush taxis leaving from The Gambia side of the border, we decided to take a private taxi to our amazing river lodge 2 hours away for about 2000 Dalasi , split 3-way to about $20USD per person.

The Ultimate Gambian Getaway: Bintang Lodge

The amazing river lodge? Named the Bintang Bolong Lodge , after its truly offbeat location in the heart of the Delta Gambia, it was the most relaxing stay of the entire month.

Our bungalow was right on the river, where we watched some of the most amazing sunrises (and moonrises) with little puddle jumpers slinging themselves on the low tide mud below us.

For lunch, we took a river cruise on a local – but decked out wooden boat specially designed for the area.

And in the afternoons, we met locals from the tiny town and learned about their fascinating stories – like one who had an engineering exchange program all the way in Japan!

Crossing the border from The Gambia into Senegal’s Casamance (Jiboro to Seleti)

We took a taxi for about an hour and a half down to the border for 1500 Dalasi or so.

Crossing the border luckily wasn’t as eventful as last time. Phew.

There’s no payment to be done, but our bags were inspected in detail on The Gambia side. They are looking for any pills without a prescription – and obviously a bribe if they find any.

On the Senegal side, they did check our COVID-19 vaccination status on entry.

2-3 Days Exploring one of West Africa’s Richest Historical Regions: Casamance, Senegal

A great place to base yourself is Ziguinchor , Senegal. It’s a popping little Senegalese town with lots of action; hotels, restaurants, markets, and a beautiful river rushing through.

You can, and should make day trips from Ziguinchor to:

  • Cap Skirring , for pristine white sand beaches
  • Ile Karabane , for more fascinating slave history and a slow, friendly pace of life

Where to stay in Ziguinchor, Senegal

There aren’t many hotels in Ziguinchor, but there is one I highly recommend: Hôtel Kadiandoumagne .

We loved its riverfront location, amazing food (especially seafood), and colonial-style rooms.

The easy way to get your Guinea-Bissau Visa: the Embassy in Ziguinchor, Senegal

It’s a super, super easy process to get your Guinea-Bissau visa in Ziguinchor.

The location for the Guinea-Bissau Embassy on Google maps is correct. It’s in the heart of town and walking distance from many hotels.

There are many different pricing options for single entry/30 days ( 25000 XOF ) to unlimited entry/5 years (90000 XOF) and everything in between.

The officer was very friendly and welcoming. We had our Visas within 5 minutes and we’re already on our way!

How to travel from Senegal to Guinea-Bissau (it’s tough!)

The recommended way to get from Senegal to Guinea Bissau by land is:

  • From Ziguinchor, take a taxi to the “Gare Routière” (2000-3000 CFA per person)
  • Find a shared van headed all the way to Bissau . Make sure to verify it’s going all the way to Bissau (city), as some only take you to the Mpak border (5000-6000 CFA per person)

The van driver will stop and wait appropriately at each border crossing. You can leave your suitcases in the van during processing at the borders.

The tougher and worse way to get from Senegal to Guinea Bissau that we took for no good reason

Regrettably, we took a more piecemeal approach and spent a lot more time sweating in the West African sun than we had to. We had to

  • take a taxi to the border with Guinea Bissau for about 5000CFA per person
  • cross the Senegalese side and take a bus for 2000 CFA to the Guinea Bissau border crossing (or walk 45 minutes – no thanks)
  • wait in the scorching sun at the “garage”/departure point for shared shuttles on the Bissau side. They won’t leave until the van is full.
  • Pay more ( 2000CFA per person+ 1000 /bag) to take a bus from the border to Bissau. You can buy additional seats for more comfort.

You can avoid our discomfort by taking a bus from the Gare Routière in Ziguinchor all the way to Bissau , as described in the beginning of this section. It’ll save so much headache versus the method we used.

Senegal to Guinea Bissau border formalities

The border formalities leaving Senegal at Mpak were very easy. You stamp out of Senegal and then you’re on your way.

In Guinea-Bissau, the first check in a blue building is just verifying your visa and eligibility for entry. You’ll notice locals paying an entry tax – don’t worry about that, it’s covered by your visa.

Next up you’ll walk 5 minutes to a building where it says “police”, and that’s where you actually get stamped into Guinea-Bissau.

The van that took you across the border should take you to the “garage”, or Bissau version of a “Gare Routière” – or all the way to Bissau, depending on what you negotiated.

5 Days in Guinea-Bissau: the jewel of West Africa… or not?

Looking at Guinea-Bissau in Satellite view on Google Maps, it looks like a treasure of turquoise blue water and magnificent islands.

It was perhaps the country we were most looking forward to visiting, but it in the end we were totally disappointed .

We drove several hours on dusty roads in a hot, cramped van – not without a crab related incident – until we reached the town of Bissau, where we took a taxi to our hotel.

Read: What it was like visiting Guinea-Bissau in 2021

Guinea-Bissau Travel Restrictions

  • Masks are “required” as much as anywhere else in West Africa
  • Restaurants and hotels are mostly reopened
  • COVID-19 testing for travel purposes is available at Liceu Agostinho Neto (near the Ministry of Education) and Sede da Uniao Deportive Internacional (known as UDIB) for 30,000 CFA.
  • COVID-19 test scheduling and test results are available online

We got our tests done at NoLab for quicker, more reliable results with longer opening hours.

The best places to stay in Bissau, Guinea-Bissau

Bissau is not a terribly interesting nor fabulous town, but it’s where the ferries depart for the marvelous Bijagos islands and also most convenient for COVID-19 testing – which you need to exit the country .

We stayed at, and enjoyed both the:

  • Hotel CEIBA , for its 5-star amenities, amazing food, and central location
  • Dunia Hotel Bissau / Azalai , for its 4 star amenities at a great price

I’d also recommend the Royal Hotel Bissau . I’ve heard great things about it, plus it’s located right across from not one, but two COVID-19 testing centers.

Getting from Bissau to the Bijagos

If you want to take a public ferry to and from Bubaque in the Bijagos islands, you’ll have to leave on a Friday and return on Sunday.

Alternately, most hotels can arrange a private speedboat from Bissau to the islands.

What to see in Guinea-Bissau

Make sure to explore Bubaque and arrange tours to see the:

  • Sea hippos at João Viera
  • Thousands of turtles at Orango
  • Magnificent, lush negation and pristine, untouched beaches

Other points of interest include the cute towns of Bolama and Bafatá , the national parks of Dulombi , and perhaps some of the more elusive river inlets and islands spread around the country.

The best way to travel from Guinea Bissau to Guinea (Conakry): land or air?

Strangely, the crossing from Guinea Bissau to Guinea is the toughest one of this entire journey.

Not only that, it’s one of the most complicated and strenuous land crossings in West Africa, and perhaps the world.

Instead, we flew on Air Senegal from Guinea Bissau (OXB) to Dakar (DSS) to Conakry (CKY). It was about USD $260 per person, took about 5 hours total, and so, so worth it.

We were able to connect in Dakar without having to recheck our bags.

Guinea (Conakry): The Best Guinea of West Africa (5-7 Days)

We were just as surprised by the Conakry Guinea as we were by Guinea Bissau. Only difference was the surprise was a good one this time.

Guinea is a country filled with natural treasures, amazingly friendly people, and incredible artisanal handiwork!

Read: The Ultimate 2022 Guinea Travel Guide (including Covid-19 Restrictions)

How to apply for a tourist visa to enter Guinea

We obtained our Guinea E-Visa online , both receiving a response the next day (though my partner’s was denied multiple times for image upload issues). After arrival at the airport, we proceeded to customs to get stamped in, and then were directed to a “Visa on Arrival” booth. Strangely enough, this requires turning around after getting stamped in.

At the booth, they simply take a picture and your fingerprints, and print out a Multiple Entry visa that lasts a couple years. Nice and simple.

Must read: The Ultimate 2022 Guinea Travel Guide (including Covid-19 Restrictions)

Guinea Travel Restrictions

Testing is available at PALAIS DU PEUPLE, N.1, CONAKRY, GUINEA NEAR JARDIN 2 OCTOBRE. Information is available here . You’ll have to pay 650K GNF to Ecobank before getting tested – bring your passport.

Results take 1-2 days , which may not work for those planning a return to the USA. Here’s how you can still meet the US restrictions from Guinea.

Alternately, Guineans are very accepting of, let’s say “tips”, to help improve the speed of service.

Where to stay in Conakry, Guinea

Two of the best hotels, in completely different parts of Conakry:

  • Hotel Petit Bateau , for its location in Kaloum along the water, and great value
  • The Sheraton Grand Conakry , for true luxury in the city of Conakry

What you need to see in Guinea

Truly a hidden treasure, Guinea offers SO much incredible beauty to see. Much of it takes some work to get to, but here’s what you cannot miss:

  • Iles de Los , just outside Conakry, for a laidback island experience
  • Markets of Conakry, including Madina , Bambou, Kobayah, and more
  • Soumba Cascade and mountain, a lovely cascade and natural wading pool
  • Kambadaga Waterfalls and Pita, some of the most beautiful waterfalls in West Africa
  • La Dame du Mali , a fascinating natural cliff structure that looks like a woman

Some of these do take longer to visit, but they’re all totally worth it. Learn more here .

Is one month in West Africa enough?

By now, it’s been a month exploring this part of the world that deserves so many more visitors.

You’ve experienced true beauty, authentic friendliness, a taste of corruption, luxury, and stress. You’ve seen markets, waterfalls, epic beaches, volcanic mountains, busy cities, and quaint towns.

Is it enough? There’s still more to explore, after all.

But to me, one month is perfect. After that, the travel loses some of its magic and intrigue. And one month in West Africa is the perfect amount to get a good taste – without getting too much of that good taste.

I hope this guide helps. Comment below and let me know your experience – or any questions you still have!

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What an incredible, in depth itinerary for West Africa.

It’s indeed a shame that West African is disregarded for travel by a lot of people. It’s for sure an amazing part of the world and I cannot wait to get back and explore more of what it has to offer!

It’s honestly one of my favorite parts of the world. There is simply nothing like it.

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COMMENTS

  1. West Africa Basics

    While you can travel West Africa on a very small budget, the region can also be very expensive depending on your accommodation, transport, and dining choices. One thing that many travelers notice is that there is a lack of the kind of quality budget options that you can find in places like Southeast Asia and South America.

  2. 20 Best Places to Visit in West Africa

    Apr 15, 2022. A tour of West Africa is one of the most fascinating experiences a tourist can have. West Africa, I tell you, is home to some of Africa’s most aesthetic landscapes, people, art, and architecture. To get the best out of a visit here, you have got to visit these 20 places in West Africa. 1. The Pendjari National Park, Benin Republic.

  3. West Africa

    West Africa – Travel guide at Wikivoyage. Africa > West Africa. West Africa. Countries. Cities. Other destinations. Understand. Talk. Get in. Get around. See. Do. Buy. Eat. Drink. Stay healthy. Stay safe. Go next. West Africa is the most densely populated area of Africa.

  4. The Ultimate One Month West Africa Itinerary

    The first country you should visit if you have one month in West Africa is Cabo (Cape) Verde, a fascinating and rich archipelago of surprising beauty. From massive, active volcanos to some of the best kitesurfing in the world, you’ll never be bored in Cabo Verde. More importantly, the culture and ethnicities are very unique and homogenous.

  5. West Africa travel guide

    West Africa travel guide. Traverse one of Africa’s least-visited regions in our West Africa travel guide. We take you from the Sahara to the Atlantic, looking out for saltwater hippos and nesting turtles, sampling food, browsing markets and taking tranquil cruises along the way.