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Cape York Adventures 3 Island Tour Horn : Thursday : Roko Islands

Visit Horn Island, Thursday Island and Roko Island in a personal small group tour. 

Visit Thursday Island and experience traditional Torres Strait dancing, story telling and artwork.

Private full day fishing charter with experienced guides.

Wet Season Fishing Charters

Personalised 4WD tours to Pajinka or 4WD tour to Fruit Bat, Eliot and Twin Falls.

Fly to the top to enjoy a fishing holiday with experienced guides and a variety of locations. 

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Check out all the specifications of our vessels that venture to the Torres Strait daily.

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Lax Charters and Tours

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Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

Lax Charters and Tours - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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From the Straits, For the Straits

Why Cruise with Malu Ventures?

Local knowledge of torres strait waters, understanding of torres strait islander protocol and customs, tailored charters to suit your needs, competitive prices, fast, reliable and comfortable service, all meals included.

Malu Ventures is a Torres Strait Islander family owned and operated charter boat business with it’s base in the Torres Strait.

With over 30 years maritime experience in the various fisheries in the Torres Strait, the crew is guaranteed to provide you with a memorable venture on board the vessel Nekana II.

The Nekana II was built in 1998 and has been kept in pristine condition by it’s owners. It was purchased by the skipper in 2019 and since then worked primarily in the commercial fishing industry in the Torres Strait.

Malu Ventures is providing the Nekana II as a charter vessel to support businesses within the Torres Strait, and also enable visitors to the region an opportunity to experience the beauty and diversity within Zenadth Kes (Torres Strait).

Your Skipper:  James Mills

James, the owner/skipper of Nekana II, is an Indigenous Torres Strait Islander with close connections to Torres Strait land and sea.  He has been a commercial fisherman in the Torres Strait since 1995, and full-time in the industry since 2012.   

Over the years he has gained extensive experience in working throughout the Torres Strait region and is familiar with the diverse weather and sea patterns that exist in this area.  He will ensure that your trip is memorable for all the right reasons!

The Nekana II

Survey classes and Certificate of Operation

1C for 34 pax  2 x crew 

2C for 8 pax 2 x crew

3C for 10 crew

Design: Conquest

Material: GRP

Measured Length: 18.2m

Beam: 5.39m

Draft: 1.7m

Main Engines: 2 x   MTU 8V 183 TE 92 (490kw@ 2300 rpm

Genset : MASE 25KVa

Cruise Speed: 10 knots

Max speed: 18 knots

Fuel capacity: 4000 litres

Additional fuel for extended voyages: 2600 litres

Range: 430nm with 10% reserve fuel capacity (28 hrs steaming at 12 knots)

Extended range: 712nm with 10% reserve fuel capacity (47 hrs steaming at 12 knots)

Freshwater storage capacity: 1000 litres

Desalinator: produces 90 litres/hr

Refrigeration: 80 litre freezer and 80 litre fridge in galley.   2 x 300 litre box freezers available  if required.

Cooking facilities: oven, BBQ, 4 plate stove top and grill plate

Air-conditioning: split system supplying cool comfort in each berth and throughout vessel

Toilet: x 1

Shower: x 1 with hot water system

Dive compressor for scuba tanks: Bauer Mariner 250

Storage racks for scuba tanks:   this is available on request

Safety equipment: full compliment of safety equipment including 3 x 12 person liferafts.

Security cameras:  x 4 situated in engine room and back deck so that these areas can be monitored from the helm at all times

Office Hours

Where to find us, thursday island harbour, mobile: 0459 539 653, acknowledgement.

Malu Ventures acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of the Land and Sea within the 5 island clusters of Zenadth Kes. We pay our respects to Elders past, present and emerging and acknowledge all members of the communities within which we live and work; the Gudaw Maluligal Nation (Top Western Islands), Maluligal Nation (Western Islands), Kemer Kemer Meriam Nation (Eastern Islands), Kulkalgal Nation (Central Islands) and the Kaiwalagal Kaurareg Aboriginal Nation (Inner Islands). We acknowledge the Gudang People and all Traditional Custodians and Native Title Holders of Pajinka and Cape York.  We recognize all First Nations people and their continuing connection to land and sea, their cultural heritage and belief systems that span past, present and future generations . 

All Rights Reserved | The Trustee For the Malu Trust and Malu Ventures Pty Ltd. 

The Trustee For the Malu Trust is a Certified Supply Nation Supplier ABN 55 900 793 253. 

A Local’s Guide to Secret Fishing Spots Around Thursday Island

From popular species to great techniques and amazing fishing spots around Thursday Island, keen anglers be sure to read this one.

A fishing haven, the Torres Strait offers a unique fishing experience unlike anywhere else in Australia. With the recent buyback of all non-indigenous commercial fishing licences and the granting of the native title over most of the region, the majority of remote places in the area do not face much fishing pressure.

The landscape of the Torres Strait creates the ideal habitat for fishes to congregate, thanks to its magnificent low reefs of coral that stretch north all the way from Cape York to just kilometres from the coastline of Papua New Guinea.

The region is often referred to as four zones. First is the inner islands that include Possession Island and Thursday Island, which act as the administrative centre of the Torres Strait. Second is the Central and Western islands, third is the North Western islands that include Duane, Boigu and Saibai Islands, offering a clear view of the West Papua coastline. And the final zone comprises of the South East where the Torres Strait central islands are, such as Yam, Yorke, Warraber and Coconut. 

Generally speaking, the most popular species caught in the Torres Strait area include giant trevally, narrow barred Spanish mackerel, Atlantic bluefin tuna, barramundi, crayfish and mud crabs.

The commercial crayfish industry is extremely popular in this region, holding a long history of culture that has been passed on from generations. With divers that explore some of the most remote locations operating out of 6 metre tenders armed only with the knowledge and childhood stories of rocks, reefs, and seasons. There is a small fortune to be made bagging crayfish, with rewards upward of $50 per kilo for live ones.

For those looking to catch some mud crabs and barramundi, the North Western islands is where you’ll want to be.

The Central islands comprise of low lying coral cays of turquoise reef. There is a mackerel fishery here, which naturally results in coral trout, crayfish and Spanish mackerel being the most targeted species in the area. As the dry season hits, the mackerel make their move north, making way for some prolific catches later in the year around the Eastern islands and Northern cays.

Resident fish such as giant trevally, queenfish, tuskfish, come aplenty all year round in Thursday Island and can be readily found along the reefs, rocks and edges along the islands.

Timing your fishing trip is important as tides and wind conditions contribute majorly to your experience, with trade winds tending to blow a fair amount of wind from mid April through to November. April, although the time of transition, may witness patchy winds however the Neal tides and great water clarity enhances your chances of great fishing. 

Fishing is generally good all around the island, with the best spots being the Customs wharf or the Navy wharf. At the Customs wharf, there’s 24 hours access to fishing, whereas the Navy wharf only has after hours access although the locals do seem to prefer fishing from there.

Both spots have plenty of fish to catch, and all you’ll need is a heavy duty handline at least 80lbs and a whole lot of tackle. You’ll find many different species including Spanish mackerel, cod, coral trout, red bass, queenfish, trevally and a never ending supply of reef fish. One of the reasons for having a strong handline is the number of sharks that roam the waters, so be sure to look out for the big bites and be prepared to lose some bait along the way. 

If you’re looking for better secret spots to fish, ask a local as most are friendly to give you some tips. Alternatively, follow the masses and fish where the locals fish. 

You can always hop on a fishing charter to gain the ultimate fishing experience. The Cape York Adventures is highly regarded throughout the Torres Strait, with John and Dave having decades of experience under their belt in catching big barramundi, mackerel, tuna, fingermark, trevally, coral repute, queenfish, and more. A fishing charter experience gives you the opportunity to get the biggest fish while exploring the beautiful islands, offering the best of both worlds.

Make the most of your visit to Thursday Island 

If you don’t have much luck out in the waters, head to the Malu Paru Cafe & Bistro at the Grand Hotel on Thursday Island and feast upon fresh, local caught seafood paired beautifully with an ice cold drink to quench your thirst. The menu is packed with classic seafood dishes along with all-time favourites including steaks, burgers, fish and chips and more. There’s also a kids’ menu for the little ones.

With most fishing trips, it isn’t just a matter of knocking the experience in a day but rather making it a journey that will last over a good amount of time to enjoy. So why not make the most of your time and check into the Grand Hotel for accommodation in Thursday Island? 

Waterfront views of the harbour backed by stunning landscapes and spectacular sunsets will make your time here a once in a lifetime. Accommodation is comfortable with each room having its own ensuite, air conditioning, television, a mini fridge and free Wi-Fi internet access across the hotel. A complimentary fully cooked and continental buffet breakfast is also included with your stay.

Book your stay by calling the Grand Hotel at 07 4069 1557 and enjoy the best of local hospitality.

MI Marine Services

Mi marine services – servicing thursday island & the torres straits since 1987.

Our vast experience in the Torres Straits region makes us the best choice for a wide range of diving, fishing, boat charter, search or salvage services.  Contact us today for all your Thursday Island & Torres Straits boat charter requirements.

Boat Charter Service

CHARTER FAST, RELIABLE MARINE TRANSPORT IN THE TORRES STRAITS.

Water Taxi, Tours & Cruises, Work Vessel or General Boat Charter. Up to 12 passengers (Inner Islands – Mainland). Up to 6 passengers (Outer Islands).

Whether it’s a fast passenger transfer, a leisurely cruise, a work platform or contractor transport in the Torres Straits – we can meet your requirements. Fast and reliable – the Marnie D II is a very reliable and comfortable 30 ft boat charter/work vessel which is equally at ease ferrying 12 people or operating as a work vessel.

Fishing Expeditions

FISH THE LAST FISHING FRONTIER – HALF DAY AND FULL DAY CHARTER!

Try our special rates for night fishing the harbour. LINES, TACKLE, BAIT & ICE SUPPLIED – BYO DRINKS.

Land based fishing safari: Stay at the exclusive Zuna Island Resort and spend your days fishing. Cook up your fresh catch while enjoying a cool drink and watching the sunset on the private beach. Zuna Island offers comfortable safari style accomodation (solid roof and floor) with large safari style tents, cooking, shower facilities and wi-fi.

Commercial Diving

SALVAGE, SEARCH & RECOVERY, INSPECTIONS & REPORTS, MOORINGS, IN WATER VESSEL AND INFRASTRUCTURE REPAIRS & MAINTENANCE, UNDERWATER VIDEO & PHOTOGRAPHY.

From aircraft recovery to propeller repairs, we can meet your needs. Being a local Torres Straits business we don’t have the (often very considerable) costs associated with bringing crews and gear to the region. These savings are reflected in our rates – meaning large savings for our clients.

With so many years in the region our knowledge of local conditions ensures a very smooth operation.

SOME OF OUR CLIENTS

MI Marine Services client list includes Australian Border Force, Maritime Safety Queensland, Defence Maritime Services, Ports North Corporation, Australian Fisheries Management, Torres Shire Council, Sea Swift Shipping, Australian Reef Pilots, Torres Pilots and many other marine based businesses and private clients.

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PEDDELLS FERRY SCHEDULE

Concession Ferry Fares available, passengers are required to present a valid card

• Boarding time is 15 minutes prior to departure, please be advised boarding is not available prior to this time due to pre-departure procedures
• Reservations are essential! It is important that you have already booked and paid and have a ticket to present at the boarding gangway
• The minimum cancellation notice accepted for an individual F.I.T. booking is 24hrs prior to travel and a cancellation fee is applicable. Cancellation is accepted by email to [email protected]  However in the case of late cancellation or no show, fares are non-refundable and non transferrable. Refunds are processed within 7 days.
• Passengers presenting for travel must present and check in with crew at the gangway 15 mins prior to departure otherwise may be considered a no show and seat forfeited
• Luggage allocation is one piece per adult/child, limits; 600x400x250mm,  15 kg.  If your luggage includes more than one piece, excess charges apply.
• Passengers are responsible for managing their own luggage to the ferry departure point (gangway) items left elsewhere on the jetty may not be loaded. Luggage not accepted in advance. We recommend any medication and/or fragile items ie. camera are carried on your person
• The dress code onboard is casual dress and we recommend passengers wear non slip shoes for health and safety reasons. Dress modestly to respect local lore and culture.
• Thursday Island Bus Tour departure time is advised on your morning ferry enroute Seisia – T.I. (bus tours are seasonal)
•  Thursday Island bus Tour departure time for those already on T.I.; we recommend you contact us prior to day of travel to confirm departure time
• Departure times are not guaranteed and do not form part of your contract of carriage. Change or cancellations may occur due to unforeseen circumstances/conditions
• Passengers must be non infectious or not be unwell with a respiratory illness (including COVID-19), or in such case should cancel and defer their travel plans.  We recommend passengers carry their own insurance. If you have COVID-19  or Influenza symptoms or test positive for COVID-19 in the time leading up to your travel it is recommended that you defer your travel

Peddells Thursday Island Tours recognises the Traditional Owners and Custodians of the land and sea routes we service. We acknowledge the past and present elders of all Torres Strait Islander and Aboriginal people in the Torres Strait and Northern Peninsula Area and respect the culture and lore of all Torres Strait Islander and Aboriginal people in our region. We acknowledge the traditional owners;  Kaurareg, Yadhaigana, Wuthathi, Unduyamo and Gudang people, within which whose land and sea the service operates. 

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Grand reopening May 2: Historic Tawas Point Lighthouse

April 18, 2024

After extensive restoration work, the Tawas Point Lighthouse – located in Tawas Point State Park in East Tawas, Michigan – is set to reopen soon for the spring/summer season, but the public can get a sneak peek at a grand reopening Thursday, May 2 – a fitting date that marks 147 years since a light first shone from the tower’s lantern room onto Tawas Bay and Lake Huron.

The event, running from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., will kick off with the official reopening ceremony. Following the ceremony, visitors can check out a variety of vendor booths, including the Tawas Bay Art Gallery, Heritage Coast Sailing and Rowing and Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary, enjoy live music and lunch from local food trucks, browse the gift shop and take a FREE tour of the lighthouse.

The Michigan Department of Natural Resources, the Michigan History Center and the Friends of Tawas Point Lighthouse and State Park are partnering on this event.

The grand reopening is free of charge; however, a Recreation Passport is required for vehicle entry to the park grounds.

Restoring the light

The restoration work, which started in February 2023, was made possible through $455,500 in federal COVID-19 relief funding from the American Rescue Plan Act of 2021 and outlined in Gov. Gretchen Whitmer’s Building Michigan Together Plan.

Guided by historic architects at WTA Architects in Saginaw, the project’s primary focus was reversing the exterior deterioration of the lighthouse tower, as well as the lantern room and gallery. Mihm Enterprises, Inc., a contracting company from Hamilton, Michigan, was selected to conduct the work. Between the two organizations, there are five Governor’s Awards for Historic Preservation and five Michigan Historic Preservation Network Building Awards. Tawas Point Lighthouse marked Mihm Enterprise, Inc.’s 23rd lighthouse restoration project.

The team worked to identify and correct ventilation and moisture issues that had accelerated the tower’s decline. Those changes will improve safety and help prevent future deterioration.

While the tower itself remains white, the lantern and gallery colors may look different to repeat visitors. The colors, based on a paint color analysis, now reflect what was present at the lighthouse circa 1895.

Read more about the restoration process in this Showcasing the DNR story.

“After many years we are so excited to see the tower of Tawas Point Lighthouse return to the gleaming white beacon it was meant to be,” said Laurie Perkins, a Michigan History Center site historian for Tawas Point Lighthouse. “The crowning glory of the restoration project is the lantern room where the 1891 fourth order Frensel Lens still resides. As work progressed on the tower, an exciting color palette dating to the turn of the 20th century reappeared, adding even more to the historical authenticity of the lighthouse.” 

Official reopening date

Tawas Point Lighthouse will officially open to the public Wednesday, May 8, and be open for tours Wednesday through Monday, from noon to 5 p.m. until Oct. 20. Tours cost $5. Every Tuesday, from June 4 through Aug. 27, the Friends of Tawas Point Lighthouse and State Park will conduct tours by donation from noon to 4 p.m.

“We are grateful for the hard work and immense care that the Friends of Tawas Point Lighthouse and State Park consistently dedicate to this historic site,” said Micah Jordan, the Tawas Point State Park supervisor. “As volunteers, they share their time, energy and passion with this site. We appreciate the continued partnership with the friends group and their work for the reopening celebration.”

For more information about the lighthouse, visit Michigan.gov/TawasLighthouse . To learn more about the Friends of Tawas Point Lighthouse and State Park, visit tawaslighthousefriends.com .

ARPA funding

A total of $250 million in federal COVID-19 relief funding was made available to the DNR to address a decades-long backlog of repair and maintenance needs in Michigan's state parks system and build a new state park in Flint.

An additional $2.64 million in ARPA upgrades is proposed for Tawas Point State Park, including stabilizing the Lake Huron shoreline, upgrading parking lot and roads and modernizing the campground electrical system.

To follow the status of ARPA-funded projects and learn more about funding and decision-making, visit Michigan.gov/StateParksProgress . There you'll find FAQs, a photo gallery and an interactive map identifying proposed project locations, details and status of those projects.

Note to editors: Several high-resolution photos are available for download in this Showcasing the DNR article about the lighthouse.

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On a remote island, a test of wills between the Philippines and China

An aerial view taken on March 9, 2023, shows Thitu Island in the South China Sea. Jam Sta Rosa/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

An aerial view taken on March 9, 2023, shows Thitu Island in the South China Sea.

THITU ISLAND, South China Sea — Life is simple here, the residents of this tropical island like to say, except for one constant nuisance: China.

From dawn to dusk, Chinese coast guard ships sail around the island, tailing Philippine vessels nearby. At night, Chinese fishing vessels glow on the horizon with intensely bright lights used to attract shoals of fish.

"I get so annoyed with China, because this island is ours. But they still come close with their boats sometimes and act very aggressively," says Erwin J. Dela Cruz, an officer of the Philippine coast guard stationed on Thitu Island.

Less than a mile long, Thitu is one of the largest of the Spratly Islands in the South China Sea , some of which are no more than a sliver of exposed reef. But their diminutive size belies their strategic importance: the islands sit in the middle of rich fishing grounds and next to critical maritime trade routes.

Chinese Ship Deployment Roils South China Sea

In addition to the Philippines, Vietnam, Taiwan and Malaysia are a few other claimants of the islands and the territorial waters around them. However, China is by far the main territorial competitor and claims nearly all the waters in the South China Sea, despite a 2016 international tribunal ruling in the Hague that rejected nearly all of its claims .

Will Hague Tribunal's South China Sea Ruling Inflame U.S.-China Tensions?

China's claims are now spurring neighboring countries to bolster regional security partnerships. Philippine President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. says he is planning for an agreement on security and freedom of navigation in the South China Sea with President Biden and Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Kishida at a White House summit Thursday.

This past Sunday, the Philippines, the United States, Australia, and Japan also held a joint patrol around the Spratlys. China countered with its own maritime patrol.

Biden is hosting Japan's Kishida. But the Nippon Steel deal is not on the agenda

Since the early 2000s, China has been expanding rocky reefs and sand bars that speckle the waters of the South China Sea in order to strengthen its claims over the waters that surround them. It has also deployed extensive coast guard and fishing fleets to chase off challengers.

The U.S. and the Philippines agree to a larger American military presence

In recent months, these standoffs between China and the Philippines have become even more pitched, particularly around a submerged reef called Second Thomas Shoal. On multiple occasions, Chinese coast guard ships shot high-pressure jets of water at Philippine resupply boats, and last December and early March , boats from both countries have collided near the shoal.

Resident Rolly Dela Cruz, getting ready to go spearfishing off the coast of Thitu Island. On the horizon, several Chinese fishing boats are floating, using bright lights to attract fish. Emily Feng/NPR hide caption

Resident Rolly Dela Cruz, getting ready to go spearfishing off the coast of Thitu Island. On the horizon, several Chinese fishing boats are floating, using bright lights to attract fish.

Enter Thitu — an island that the Philippines calls Pag-asa , while China calls it Zhongye. It is the only civilian-inhabited island of the Spratlys, and its approximately 250 full-time residents see their quiet existence as both an escape and an act of resistance. By continually occupying the spit of sand, they hope to keep it in the hands of the Philippines.

"[China] really wants to take the island but there is just one problem for them: We are here, the civilians are here. So that is a big obstacle for them. They will violate human rights," says Larry Hugo, a fisherman who lives on the island.

A sea stirred by geopolitics

Hugo, 45, says he prefers to spend most of his time on the water in good weather rather than on land.

From his perch on his small boat, he has had a front-row seat to the geopolitical tensions that have transformed the waters around Thitu.

Like most of the island's residents, who have resettled from other parts of the Philippines, Hugo is originally from Palawan province. When he first moved to Thitu in 2009, encroaching Vietnamese fishing boats were their biggest headache, he and others interviewed by NPR say. Hugo accused the Vietnamese of using cyanide to kill and harvest fish , poisoning and killing off coral reefs that once ringed the island.

Fisherman Larry Hugo, 45, in his home on Thitu Island, which the Philippines calls Pag-asa. Emily Feng/NPR hide caption

Fisherman Larry Hugo, 45, in his home on Thitu Island, which the Philippines calls Pag-asa.

Later, Chinese fishermen also began plying Thitu's waters, occasionally hauling off live corals and endangered giant clams . The destruction in reef habitats have led fish stocks around Thitu to drop by more than two-thirds in numbers since 1993, according to the Philippines' Kalayaan municipal government, which oversees Thitu.

In The Tussle For The South China Sea, A Mayor Tries To Protect His Island

In 2011, the Chinese coast guard began sailing near the island, sometimes chasing off Thitu fishermen who came too close to their vessels, residents say. Hugo started filming the Chinese boats with his cellphone.

In 2014, he shared videos showing the construction of Subi Reef, a small sandbar China has expanded to allow boats to dock and built buildings on . Hugo alerted the Philippine navy but did not receive the response he expected: "The Philippines government told me to stop sharing these videos on social media because they said it could damage Manila's friendship with China," he says.

Since then, the Philippines' more China-friendly policies under the previous government have done an about-face under the country's current President Marcos, who has made defending Manila's territorial claims of the Spratly Islands a priority.

U.S. Rejects Beijing's Maritime Claims In South China Sea

"The Filipinos had the gumption to say, stop, and we're not going to allow this anymore," Philippine Defense Secretary Gilberto Teodoro told NPR in March. "Who believes that China has indisputable sovereignty over the whole of the South China Sea by way of history? Nobody except them."

In 2021, Hugo posted another video of the Chinese coast guard blocking his boat. It went viral.

"I am happy the [Philippine] government is now doing what it should," Hugo says.

The Two-Way

Chinese official on tribunal ruling: 'it's nothing but a scrap of paper'.

China has repeatedly said the Philippines has no legitimate claim to the island it calls Zhongye, nor to other Spratly land features or the waters around them. China says it is blocking Filipino resupply boats because they are carrying construction materials, not food.

To counter the Chinese presence, the Philippines built a new coast guard station on Thitu last year. Its air force and marines also sent more officers to the island to serve two-month stints patrolling the waters and keeping tabs on Chinese vessels.

The island changed hands through history

Life on Thitu has the feeling of tropical Jamestown or a moon colony — a splinter community trying to replicate a new society, under hostile conditions.

Only until last year did the local government install 24/7 electricity and pave Thitu's main road with concrete. Most families live without running water. Almost no native vegetation grows on the island, so residents rely on resupply boats that arrive every few months. The nearest town, in Palawan, is at least a 30-hour boat ride away, in good weather.

Only the very patient and hardy stay long on Thitu.

One Result Of China's Buildup In South China Sea: Environmental Havoc

Thitu and its nearby reefs, islands and atolls have been claimed many times over by competing colonial powers and geopolitical rivals. In the 1930s, the French and the newly established Republic of China verbally sparred over control of them. In the 1950s, Thitu was briefly declared free land by Tomas Cloma, a Filipino entrepreneur, before being occupied by the Republic of China, which now governs Taiwan.

Briefly imprisoned, Cloma was forced to sell his rights to Thitu to the Philippine government, which then occupied Thitu from 1974 to the present day. The first permanent residents started arriving in the mid-1990s.

"Sometimes I was sad, sometimes very lonely," says Judy Masagnay , a local government employee who was assigned to the island in 1997, one of only seven people residing on the island then.

In 2002, the Philippines began recruiting civilians to live full-time on the island to strengthen its territorial claim. It offered subsidies for free food and water to entice families. But there is no getting around the fact that there is very little to do on Thitu; circumnavigating it on foot takes only about 40 minutes.

"Drink!" fisherman Gerald Fernandez says, laughing, when asked what he does in his free time. The strains of a raucous beer-fueled karaoke session filter through the small island on a Wednesday evening, though they must turn off the speakers by the 10 p.m. nightly curfew.

Roberto Del Mundo, the mayor of Kalayaan municipality, which includes Thitu, says relations with China were quiet when he began his air force posting on the island in 1987. Now he is pessimistic about the prospect of Chinese-Filipino relations.

Roberto Del Mundo, the mayor of Kalayaan municipality, which includes Thitu. Emily Feng/NPR hide caption

Roberto Del Mundo, the mayor of Kalayaan municipality, which includes Thitu.

"I think it will come to war," Del Mundo says. "Maybe tomorrow or next year."

China has also threatened military aggression against what it sees as foreign meddling in its backyard.

"If the concerned parties intend to escalate tensions in the South China Sea and undermine China's territorial and sovereign integrity, then they will become the [People's Liberation Army's] target," a Chinese state-run tabloid declared this week, after sending a naval and air force patrol in disputed waters.

"Naturally, we have no pretensions to sparking conflicts or whatnot," Defense Secretary Teodoro said to NPR about China in March. "However, when that big thing tries to try to lay claim to territory of a smaller, proud nation whose future generations' survival depends on its ability to explore and exploit what is within its rights under international law ... we will stand up."

Plans to grow, but land and resources are limited

The Philippines is kicking it up a notch in its quest to make the island it calls Pag-asa fully Filipino: It wants to make it a utopian getaway for intrepid tourists.

"Civilianize the place, contrary to militarization," says Ken Hupanda, a Kalayaan tourism employee who wants to launch more regular boat tours to the Spratlys. He is also planning to hold a sea urchin eating contest to help rebrand the island this May. "We believe the only effective way to manage this area of the Philippines is to put more civilians [here]."

In the last decade, the Philippines has also tried to make Thitu more family-friendly, filling in an eroding airstrip and building a health center, while subsidizing more teachers for the more than 80 school-age children who live full time on the island.

"The [Philippine] mainland can be three days by boat away, so if something happens, you need to be able to make your own decisions here," says Nasreen H. Guarin, the resident midwife, who also works as a dentist, nutritionist and sometimes pediatrician for the island.

Leah Valdez Natural, 50, in her front yard. Emily Feng/NPR hide caption

Leah Valdez Natural, 50, in her front yard.

The conditions are rudimentary enough that pregnant women are advised to carry their babies to term on the Filipino mainland. Only two children are known to have been born on the island — including the fourth child of resident Leah Valdez Natural, who says she was too busy to step away from her work trying to grow dragonfruit on Thitu during her pregnancy.

Now 50, Valdez Natural says she wants to live out the rest of her days on Thitu. "We stand for the West Philippines Sea. As a Filipino, not as a Chinese community. We are Filipino community. That's why we need to develop it for [the] Philippines," she says.

China is also doubling down on its presence in the Spratlys. It has spent much of the last decade fortifying its toehold in the region. Del Mundo, the mayor, says China is also building three more artificial sand bars near Thitu.

Yet the Filipinos are not going anywhere. Enticed by the subsidies of free rice and water, more families are clamoring to move to the island, which the municipal government estimates can only sustain a maximum of 350 people, due to land and water constraints. Construction workers stationed on the island say they have been tasked with building more houses and creating a sheltered port to accommodate bigger ships.

A quiet residential street on the island of Thitu, or Pag-asa as it is called in the Philippines. The Philippine government subsidizes the island's permanent civilian population. Emily Feng/NPR hide caption

A quiet residential street on the island of Thitu, or Pag-asa as it is called in the Philippines. The Philippine government subsidizes the island's permanent civilian population.

This Easter, the island brought in a Catholic priest and held its first-ever Mass. The coast guard hosted a dinner for residents and played acoustic guitar to entertain residents, one of the efforts to normalize life on the island.

"I want to live forever if I am strong. But if my body becomes weak, I will return to the mainland because Pag-asa does not have a cemetery," laughs Hugo, the fisherman.

• The Philippines
• spratly islands
• south china sea
• South China Sea islands dispute
• South China Sea conflict
• Philippines

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1. World Of Adventures

Khabarovsk, Russia

Tours, Attractions and Things To Do in Khabarovsk

Khabarovsk travel guide.

• 1. Architecture
• 2. Attractions
• 3. Cultural life
• 4. Souvenirs

Khabarovsk, Russia fascinates visitors with its unusual heritage and fabulous untouched nature. Tourists are drawn to the native culture, eclectic architecture and mesmerizing waters in this off-the-beaten-track destination, which promises a unique and memorable vacation.

As the center of Russia’s far eastern region of Khabarovsk Krai, the city offers celebrations throughout the year which are sure to give added flair to your trip, from traditional culture days to large-scale food fests. It is easy to keep a full itinerary during your stay thanks to its many theaters, museums, restaurants, workshops and quest rooms. Guests who want a more relaxed holiday can venture into the serenity of Khabarovsk nature, including the coast of the Sea of Japan or one of the region’s many picturesque lakes .

Khabarovsk Architecture

Khabarovsk architecture surprises with its harmonious blending of varying types and styles. This is due in large part to major changes which the city underwent in the mid-19th-early 20th centuries in conjunction with developments in the political, economic, scientific and technical spheres. The search for new trends in architecture came after the death of the classicism style, which had dominated the Russian Empire and the wider world for centuries. Beginning in the mid-19th century, the practice of mixing eclectic architectural styles began to emerge, leading to an era of amazing stylistic improvisations.

During the final decades of Romanov reign, many educational institutions for architects and engineers were opened. As a result, the face of numerous Russian cities began to change rapidly. Art Nouveau - a new, modern trend that absorbed several preceding styles – had come to dominate the architectural scene.

Many Art Nouveau buildings can still be seen in central Khabarovsk. These include:

• Takeuchi apartment building (5 Muravyov-Amursky Street)
• Esplanade Hotel (18 Muravyov-Amursky Street)
• Luhta apartment building (84 Komsomolskaya Street)
• Zandau apartment building (34 Muravyov-Amursky Street)

Khabarovsk also has many Gothic buildings, a style distinguished by its elegance and attention to detail. Every element of Gothic architecture emphasize a vertical orientation, as seen in the massive walls and columns, round arches and wide windows which contrast with narrow towers, pointed peaks and lancet windows.

Khabarovsk’s Gothic architecture is best represented by the artillery warehouse buildings located at 16 Komsomolskaya Street. Another notable example is the Red Guard Headquarters (105 Komsomolskaya Street), which has been preserved in its original form. The complex consists of two identical two-story brick buildings with unusual motifs containing pseudo-gothic elements.

Also of note is the early 20th-century Treasury Building, a luxurious red brick structure with openwork balconies that exudes an architectural grace.

Khabarovsk also has many Soviet-era buildings which were mostly designed in the constructivism style. Characterized by their enormous size and grotesque shapes, they often occupy most of the block and dominate the surrounding space.

During your Khabarovsk excursion, be sure to appreciate its unique architectural heritage by going for a walk downtown .

Khabarovsk Attractions

The layout of Khabarovsk is very simple: its 3 main streets of Lenin, Muravyov-Amursky and Seryshev pass through the downtown area, while Ussuriysky and Amur Boulevards run perpendicular to them. A distinctive feature of Khabarovsk are its many hills, so we recommend wearing comfortable shoes for your walk.

Begin your walking tour of Khabarovsk from the train station, where you can see the monument to Yerofey Khabarov, the famous explorer for whom the city is named. Nearby is a sculpture of a double-headed eagle, erected in memory of soldiers, officers and builders of the Far Eastern Railway. Moving from the station along Amur Boulevard you will reach the central market, just past which is Lenin Square. A spacious area with a granite fountain in the center, it is the main plaza of Khabarovsk and the site of the city’s Christmas and New Year celebrations. Next to the square is Dynamo Park, famous for its three ponds and Ferris wheel.

From Lenin Square, move along Muravyov-Amursky Street to reach Amur Embankment, passing most of Khabarovsk’s famous 19th-20th century buildings along the way. Descend to the embankment via two grand staircases or make a small detour onto Shevchenko Street, where you can follow the slope until you reach the embankment’s main stretch. Among other things, the area is home to the House of Officers and three museums.

As you move along the embankment through a park you will come across the city symbol of Khabarovsk, a building set on a steep cliff above the Amur River. It was at the foot of this cliff that the founders of a military post, the first semblance of civilization in the area, first landed.

After reaching the river and walking along Ussuriysky Boulevard to Turgenev Street, turn right to reach Glory Square. Here you will find another famous Khabarovsk landmark, Transfiguration Cathedral, along with a magnificent view of the Amur River and its dreamy islands. Glory Square concludes the main walking route of Khabarovsk, but from here you can reach any part of the city by public transport or taxi .

Khabarovsk Cultural Life

Khabarovsk entertainment centers around its many theaters and museums. Visit Khabarovsk Museum of Local Lore to get a better glimpse of city and regional life. Children and adults alike will want to visit Fishes of Amur River Museum, an aquarium which is home to some 90 species of the underwater world. To catch the vibe of local artists, head to the Far Eastern Art Museum.

There are several theaters in Khabarovsk, each of which is worth visiting:

• Khabarovsk Regional Puppet Theater;
• Triad Pantomime Theater;
• Khabarovsk Regional Philharmonic;
• White Theater, and others.

In addition, Khabarovsk offers several concert halls, culture houses, cinemas and art institutions .

Khabarovsk Souvenirs

While the city’s souvenir selection is not as diverse as in other Russian cities, guests can still find something suited to their tastes on their tour to Khabarovsk. Amur River and the Sea of Japan offer an abundance of seafood that can be tasted on the spot or brought home in dried or smoked form. Yet it is the rich culture of the local indigenous peoples which provides the largest selection of national souvenirs.

If you’re looking for an original gift, traditional Nanai slippers are comfortable and warm. Sewn from leather or fabric and decorated in a bright, colorful style before being trimmed with fur, they make the perfect house shoes in winter. Traditional decorations include amulets which are made from animal bones, fur or fabrics and decorated with ribbons and colored beads.

Standard souvenirs like plates, magnets, mugs and flasks stamped with images of Khabarovsk or its coat of arms can be purchased in souvenir shops, which are mostly located downtown and at the airport and railway station.