Anna Sherchand

Anna Sherchand

Solo Female Travel Blog

Brunei solo travel itinerary for 5 days

This trip was in collaboration with Brunei Tourism, Thank you for the amazing time! PS: all opinions are my own.

Brunei is one of the hidden gems of a place in Asia. Whether you are on a visa run or looking for a week-long escape, this country could be the one for you. Especially the Ulu Temburong National Park, the tranquility and peace I felt there is off the charts! So if you looking for a Brunei solo travel itinerary, read on till the end.

At first, I wasn’t sure how many days I should plan for Brunei and when I googled, I found loads of people were saying there is not much to do and 1-2 days is enough but one thing I know for sure after traveling to 45+ countries, is 1-2 days is never enough.

Every country is beautiful in its own way and with a new culture, food, history, sightseeing and off-the-beaten-path places to explore, you definitely need more than 3 days. So, I went for jam-packed 5 days but in the end, I was wishing I was there longer. (maybe next time) Alright without further ado, let’s begin!

Brunei solo travel itinerary

Day 1: mangrove sunset and more, day 2: kampong ayer, day 3: back from temburong and to soto pabo, day 4: brunei half-day tour, flower show, and more, day 5: bandarku ceria and shopping, travel tips to brunei:.

brunei solo travel itinerary

I landed in the afternoon around 4ish and still had the rest of the day to explore. So, from the Badi’ah Hotel , you can either walk 20 minutes or order a car from Dart App (cost 5BND only!) and go to Mangrove Sunset Cruise on a Water Taxi to see the proboscis monkeys. The perfect time to go would be around 4:30 PM.

To get on a Mangrove Sunset Cruise, you need to approach any water taxi located by the jetty. The price for a tour to see the proboscis monkeys (and crocodiles and monitor lizards, if you’re lucky!) should be around BND15-25 and should take about 30-45 minutes.

When you come back walk to nearby Frame Brunei Darussalam. It is a quite special view of the Mosque from here. Then for the dinner I recommend going to Kaizen Sushi Restaurant Waterfront which is within short walking distance from Frame Brunei. Dart back to the hotel and good night’s sleep.

Brunei solo travel blog

After having my complimentary buffet breakfast at the hotel, I could have walked 15 minutes but I order Dart (again it was only 5 BND) to the water Jetty area where the water taxis are. You can ask to be dropped off at the “Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery” for your own self-guided tour.

This should be about a 1-minute boat ride and should cost no more than 50 cents to a dollar. Once you are there, you can ask for a walking tour map from the Gallery. When I was there they were out of the map, but you can also take a photo of the map outside the gallery. Plus there are signs everywhere so you will hardly get lost!

Kampong Ayer is an interesting area, with little wooden pathways leading to the historic settlements of the local people, a mosque, local handicraft shops all above the water! Famously known as the water village aka Venice of Asia! Main highlights include – Jabal Rahmah, Pottery House, Arch Maker, colorful houses, and Kunyit 7 Lodge.

When you wish to get back, flag the boat and pay 50 cents to a dollar to get back as well.

TIP: Make sure to bring an umbrella/hat and a bottle of water and use plenty of sunblocks! And be careful on the wooden walkways as the planks have large spaces in between them.

I had lunch at Mekong Cafe back in the city. They do Indian, Malay, and Chinese food. If you don’t care much about the interior but want good food then go here.

After lunch, it was time to call Dart again and head back to the hotel. As I was headed to Temburong for 2D and 1 N, I left my carry-on suitcase at the concierge and only took a night bag with me.

Sunrise in Ulu Temburong National Park

I left Temburong around 2 PM and was back at the Jetty. A guide from Pan bright travel service was waiting for me and then he dropped me off at my hotel. It was 3 pm at this point, I checked in again at Badi’ah Hotel and rest for a few hours.

Brunei sunsets

For the evening I recommend taking a Dart to “Soto Pabo” for a local sunset dinner. The “local sticky noodles” you see above on the picture is actually called “ambuyat” and it’s actually just a starch dish made out of sago palm flour with hot boiling water stirred in. We also had the beef soupy noodles called “Soto”. A write-up of local Bruneian delicacy on the “ambuyat” can be found here: https://sutera.co/the-story-behind-ambuyat/ .

It is popular among the locals and it could get busy during the evening. So arrive a little early to get tables before sunsets and enjoy that amazing food with fantastic sunset views!

Brunei flower festival

After breakfast at the hotel. I was picked up by Pan Bright Travel Service for my half-day city tour to:

  • Royal Regalia Museum
  • Tamu Kianggeh
  • Waterfront Dermaga (if open)
  • Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque
  • Taman Mahkota Jubilee Emas

Happy to let you guys know Mr. Lim the guide was fluent in English, knowledgeable, and respectful. He explained in detail the history of places, about the Sultan Omar, hotels and night market too. It was hot during the day, but we were driving around in a car with full blast AC and that made all the difference! Overall, 10/10 for the guide, what the tour included, and pickup/drop-off service. I highly recommend Pan Bright to organize your Brunei solo travel itinerary tours.

When I got back to the hotel, it was time to shower and get ready again! I took a Dart to “Rimba Garden Central” for the Brunei International Flower Show. It was such a pretty place full of different flowers, plants, trees, and they even had how-to grow plants workshops! Loved it! TIP: The flower show doesn’t run all year round so, I suggest checking the Brunei Tourism website to see what’s currently on. I would also like to take this opportunity to Thank you team over at Brunei Tourism Board and the Ministry of Primary Resources and Tourism for a pleasant stay in Brunei. I look forward to visiting Brunei Darussalam again!

Then for the evening, I went to the Empire Hotel to watch yet another Bruneian sunset. It was beautiful, to say the least, but there were a lot of couples too. It seemed like it was the local’s favorite dating destination. Anyhow, you can have dinner at the Empire or back at your hotel. As for me, one of my Bruneian friends invited me to the 30th Toyota Classics performed by the London Chamber Orchestra!! Her Royal Highness of Brunei attended the show and I got to see her in person too! It was an evening of beautiful music and delicious food. What a way to end my last night in Brunei!

My last day was Sunday. And I didn’t know the main road will be shut and open to pedestrians for the weekly Sunday “Bandarku Ceria” (translates to My Happy City).

So after breakfast, I took a leisurely stroll around the city center of Brunei. It was weirdly exciting to see many people on the open road which made Bandar Seri Begawan more lively on Sundays. The area spanning from the Royal Regalia to the Waterfront is a car-free zone from 6 am to 10 am every Sunday.

Alternatively, you can take a Dart to The Mall Gadong to see a different commercial area in Brunei or do some last-minute shopping!

TIP: Ask for a late checkout if you have an afternoon or late night flight. Usually, the hotel approves it or you just have to pay for the day.

Brunei travel blog

1 To find the cheapest flights to Brunei, book it through the most trusted sites such as Skyscanner or Momodo.

2 Get a local Sim card After you land in Brunei international airport, get yourself a local BND25 sim card with Progresif from the Progresif Airport Counter, which should be on your left as you exit Customs.

3 There’s no Uber in Brunei, Install Dart app Download the Dart app from the App Store and Google Play on your day of arrival. It is Brunei’s first ride booking app. Taxis are not only expensive in Brunei but there is no clear public transportation route. Even locals told me they aren’t sure how to use the bus in the city and perhaps will take an hour to get from point A to B. So, I myself used the Dart app and found it very convenient and easy to use. Works exactly like Uber, with reliable and fast door-to-door service.

4 Good to know Currency = Brunei dollar Capital City = Bandar Seri Begawan is formerly known as Brunei town Districts and their capital cities = Belait (Kuala Belait), Brunei-Muara (Bandar Seri Begawan), Temburong (Pekan Bangar) and Tutong (Pekan Tutong) Good morning = Selamat pagi Good afternoon = Selamat petang Goodnight = Selamat malam Thank you = Terima kasih You’re welcome = Sama-sama What is your name? = Siapa nama awda? My name is = Nama saya Anna Excuse me = Maafkan saya Yes = Ya No = Tidak How much? = Berapa?

5 Where to stay in Brunei? I stayed at the Badi’ah Hotel in Brunei Town (Bandar Seri Begawan) It is only a few minutes from the airport and not too far from the must-see places in town as well. Plus they provide pick-up and drop-off shuttle service from the hotel.

I stayed in the executive room and must say there was a lot of space! Huge King size bed, a nice comfortable leather couch, desk, and chair to work, water delivered daily and newspaper too if you are into it, and free wifi!

Buffet breakfast was fresh every day, mostly Asian inspired but there was an element of English with cakes, bread and you can order your eggs as you wish. There is also a swimming pool on level 3 (from memory) and a cafe/restaurant on the ground floor which I didn’t get to visit because of my busy schedule but spend a few minutes checking it out. Overall, I liked this hotel, enjoyed my stay here, and recommend it to you on your visit to Brunei.

6 Is Brunei safe to travel to? I solo traveled myself and didn’t have any problem throughout my stay. Pretty much everyone spoke English, from a cab driver, tour guide to local on the street. Unlike other destinations in Southeast Asia, Brunei is probably the safest.

It could be because there is extremely low consumption of alcohol by visitors and none by locals, and with no clubs or bars, they seem to have ultra-low crime rates (apart from the occasionally petty theft).

7 Can I wear shorts in Brunei? Although Brunei is an extremely conservative country, it’s acceptable to wear shorts or even swimwear of your choice here. Having said that though, I would respect the culture and wear a long sarong that can be worn as a skirt or a thin crop top on top of my swimwear. I also wore all long skirts and half sleeves during my stay.

When is the best time to visit Brunei? June – September is the high season but I recommend visiting between January and May. You will have dry and warm weather but not too hot. February and March are the driest months of the entire year though.

Brunei solo travel itinerary

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19 thoughts on “ brunei solo travel itinerary for 5 days ”.

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Looks like a beautiful place! Putting this on my bucket list now!

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Wow! Looks like you are having such a great time in Brunei! Looks like I will be adding it to my bucket list. Those palaces are incredible!

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That is such a pretty place! If I ever get there, I’ll probably follow this itinerary exactly.

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From your picture, Brunei looks like a lot of fun. And that I am sure you did.

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What an adventure. I will need to check sky scanner out when I book my next trip.

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WOW! What a fabulous destination! This the type of place I would like to visit. Would definitely follow your itinerary.

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I will be very honest here….I can only visit Brunei for the food and nothing else! Their human rights record is still so much wanting, to me. And that alone, is the very first item on my travel checklist!

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I’ve never heard of Brunei but it sounds and looks like a wonderful place to visit! I’ll have to check it out!

'  data-srcset=

the staircase is instagram worthy. cinderella, no? and a water taxi? how fun! i have never used one before.

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What a gorgeous place to visit and that sunset photo is insane!

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I love the photos! I was there last year. It’s cheap and the food is amazing! Public transport is an issue though!

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I’m not traveling to Brunei soon but I’ll be saving this itinerary for future reference! Thank you!

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Thank you for taking us along with you for your travels. The pictures are beautiful. I will be looking more into this location, it looks like a great spot.

'  data-srcset=

Looks like a beautiful place! Thank you for sharing your adventure with us 🙂

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Girl you looked like you had the time of your life! I love this and I would be interested in visiting Brunei one day!

'  data-srcset=

After reading the sultan of Brunei this isn’t really a place high on my list to visit. I don’t like double standards.

'  data-srcset=

Your photos all look amazing and it sounds like you had a very wonderful time there during your trip. I haven’t been to Brunei but hopefully soon with the family.

'  data-srcset=

Sure looks like a place worthy of a visit! I love the photo of you with the orchids and the pretty plants in the background. I will now add Brunei to my travel bucket list. Thanks for the travel guide!

'  data-srcset=

I honestly had never heard of Brunei before. Looks like a beautiful place to visit. I love all of your pictures. 🙂

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  • Bandar Seri Begawan

10 Tips For Women Travelling To Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

brunei female travel

Zafigo’s Quick Guide to Bandar Seri Begawan for Women Travelling Alone or with Family and Friends

B runei may not top the list of most travellers’ must-see destinations when planning their Southeast Asian adventure, but Bandar Seri Begawan has its charm. There’s a comfortable pace of life here, despite it being the capital city, making it a great pit-stop regardless of your travel motivations.

One only needs to take a peek beneath the surface of this tightly-regulated sultanate to be surprised by the warmth of Brunei’s people and its wisely-conserved wildness.

Here’s how you can get the full experience of Brunei in Bandar Seri Begawan:

brunei female travel

1. Getting there

Foreign nationals can enter Brunei visa-free (for up to 90 days, 30 days, and 14 days depending on the country of origin) as long as they present a passport valid for at least six months. Nationals of Israel are not allowed to enter Brunei, however, other passports containing Israeli stamps and visas should not pose a problem.

Brunei International Airport is Brunei’s sole airport of significance. A taxi to Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) downtown takes about 20 minutes and costs around BND25 (approximately USD18.40). Purple buses to and from the city centre are also available for BND1 (approximately USD0.70), but they only run during the day, so be prepared to make alternative arrangements if you’re arriving or leaving at night.

You can easily drive into Brunei from Sarawak, Malaysia, via two entry points. Both these crossings have drive-through immigration checkpoints, but queues can be horribly long, especially during weekends. It’s important to note that only some petrol stations in the country are permitted to sell petrol to cars with non-Brunei plates. So be sure that your car is topped up before entering.

From Miri, Sarawak: PHLS Express operates a service between Miri and BSB twice a day.

From Kota Kinabalu, Sabah: buses run once a day between BSB and Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia.

brunei female travel

2. Getting around

Once you’re in, navigating Brunei, especially BSB, is incredibly easy as the locals are extremely hospitable. Don’t be surprised if after a few minutes of conversation, locals offer a ride to some of the attractions mentioned in conversation. If you’re uncomfortable hitching rides from strangers, you can always pick up an official map of Brunei Darussalam to aid you in getting around town.

Public minibuses are the cheapest way to travel in the city. Service starts at 6AM and end quite early at about 6PM. There are no strict schedules with the service, so you might have to wait 20-30 minutes if you find yourself missing a bus. They cost BND1 regardless of distance (BND0.50 (approximately USD0.40) for children) and will stop anywhere along its route to drop off or pick up passengers, so just indicate to the conductor if you want to be dropped off at a specific spot.

By tour van

When looking to book a tour van to drive you around the city, do discuss and agree on a price before boarding the van. If you’re feeling particularly nervy, try to haggle down the price.

It’s extremely difficult to hail a taxi outside the airport, so you might want to arrange your transport through your hotel or call a taxi service directly. If you’ve got data service, give the main ride-hailing app in town a whirl by downloading Dart .

By water taxi

You can hail a few water taxis at almost any dock, but the most popular place to find one is on the waterfront downtown. They’re also a useful way to get to certain tourist attractions that are along the waters and some of the city’s outlying neighbourhoods.

Downtown BSB is small and you can get around on foot easily. You’ll find walking maps of the Heritage Trail at some intersections leading you to attractions such as Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the Royal Regalia Museum.

Do note that some of the pedestrian traffic lights will stay red and won’t change even if you press the button, so time your crossing by paying attention to the traffic lights for cars.

brunei female travel

3. Money matters

The currency in Brunei is the BND (Brunei Dollar) and it’s neck-to-neck with the SGD (Singapore Dollar). If you’re stopping by Singapore before Brunei, you’ll be glad to know that both SGD and BND are accepted here.

For daily expenditures, travellers are looking at a comfortable BND20 (approximately USD14.80) per day for meals, but only if you’re planning to go a bare minimum. You could get nasi katok (rice, fried chicken, and your choice of sambal – very spicy, mild, non-spicy, or mixed) for BND1 and canned drinks for BND1.

If you’re a coffee addict, a good cuppa will cost you anywhere between BND4 to BND7 (approximately USD3 to USD5.20). Fast food junkies will be glad to know that a large meal at McDonald’s will cost a little under BND10 (approximately USD7.40).

brunei female travel

4. Common (un)knowledge

Travellers who don’t do their Googles are often surprised that Brunei is a dry country. That means to say that no alcohol and cigarettes are legally sold here, although non-Muslims are allowed to import small amounts for personal consumption. The alcohol limit is two litres for liquor and/or spirits and cigarettes are taxed at BND0.50 (approximately USD0.40) per stick if you bring in a carton.

Vapes and e-cigarettes are also prohibited here, and the importation and sale of it are punishable by a hefty fine. Unlike alcohol and cigarettes, it cannot be declared as consumables for personal use. Even if you do manage to sneak it in, if you’re caught vaping in a non-smoking area, you could be subject to hundreds of dollars in fines.

Amid international scrutiny, Brunei has also gone forward with the full implementation of the Syariah Penal Code which incorporates hudud punishments. Brunei has always practised a dual legal system, one that is based on the Syariah law and common law, however, prosecutors must fulfill a high burden of proof in order to carry out punishments prescribed by hudud . Cases that do not fulfil the guidelines set out in the Syariah Court Criminal Procedure Code will be tried in the conventional court system.

Crimes punishable by hudud include theft, illicit sexual relations, making unproven accusations of illicit sex, causing physical hurt, drinking intoxicants, apostasy, and acts contrary to Islamic beliefs.

Note: Insulting the royal family of Brunei is an offence, and travellers are advised to be careful with voicing their opinions in that particular area.

brunei female travel

5. Safety for women

Brunei is safe for women generally, and BSB has seen a number of solo women travellers in recent day. What the media has interpreted about the Sharia law (Islamic law) in the country is vastly out of proportion, so women travellers will be glad to know that not all women have to adhere to wearing headscarves.

Women are more conservatively-dressed and modest compared to other countries though. Prepare to be on the receiving end of a dirty look or two if you reveal too much skin with your choice of clothing.

Crimes against expatriates are quite uncommon, and pickpockets and snatch theft occurrences are not widely reported, but as with everything, there are outliers. In these cases, authorities will be more than helpful, but don’t trust to get the culprit or a speedy return of your valuables.

If you’re thinking of funding your travels while in Brunei, you might want to avoid busking in the city because you’ll need permits for that. There have been attempts to encourage the Bruneian government to consider setting up busking zones in BSB for the sake of creative arts, but for now, you still run the risk of being arrested or deported for performing in public for donations.

brunei female travel

6. Sightseeing around the Bandar

While you won’t find as many architecturally stunning buildings in BSB as you would in the rest of Southeast Asia, that doesn’t mean there isn’t much to look at. Some of the most popular spots include:

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Majestic in its own way with golden domes on the outside and an intricate calligraphic interior, the mosque is one of the first modern Islamic structures built by the late Sultan Omar Ali Saiffuddien III. The mosque is open to visitors (and for free) when it is not being used for prayers.

While modesty is generally encouraged in Brunei, you’ll be provided with a robe upon entry should your clothes be deemed inappropriate for this holy site. Do remove your shoes before entering, and keep quiet whilst inside, as there may be people praying within the mosque.

Royal Regalia Museum

The museum pays tribute to His Majesty, the Sultan and Yang di-Pertuan of Brunei, documenting his life story from youth to adulthood. His coronations over the years are also put on display at the museum, as well as the gifts he has received from dignitaries, world leaders, and civilians all around the world. This free museum gives its visitors a good understanding of the royal family and its history.

Kampong Ayer

‘Kampong Ayer’ (translated to Water Village) is a beautiful sight to behold. The village, the world’s largest settlement on stilts, has been on the river for over 1000 years and was the capital of the Bruneian Empire.

For a tour by boat, water taxis can be found by walking along the Brunei River or the main market in BSB and waving one down. Do try to negotiate the price down (you shouldn’t pay more than BND30 (approximately USD22) for an hour-long tour of Kampong Ayer), and if possible, walk around and explore the quaint village.

Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery

If you feel adventurous, take a water taxi across for about BND1 per person and walk around the Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery. Apart from the museum, you’ll find an observation tower next to the gallery with sweeping views of the water village and the city centre.

Don’t just stay at the edge of the village near the gallery either, go into the village and walk around. Locals are very friendly and many open up their homes to visitors year-round. Not many tourists seem to enter the village though, so you’ll see people going about their ordinary routines.

brunei female travel

7. Coffee cravings

If you get tired of exploring, you can cool down at Piccolo Cafe , which sits on The Waterfront overlooking Kampong Ayer. If you’re looking to explore the café culture in the city, hitch a ride back to BSB and head over to one of the many coffee shops within Kiulap, Batu Bersurat, and Gadong.

Some popular cafés worthy of their hype include Little Audrey’s with its Instagrammable and delicious plates of food and It’s A Grind Coffee House with their cool comfortable ambience and board games.

brunei female travel

8. The good eats

The cuisine in Brunei shares many similarities with its neighbouring Malaysian states due to their shared heritage as part of Borneo. However, for those looking for something uniquely Bruneian, feast on the country’s national dish – ambuyat .

Made out of ambulong , or sago palm, it’s mixed with hot water until it becomes a starchy clear paste. Eaten using a chandas , a bamboo fork, it’s often dipped into a sauce of either tempoyak (a condiment made from fermented durian) or binjai (an intense pungent sauce made from a sour mango native to Borneo).

For the less adventurous eater, there’s always bamboo chicken, which, as its name suggests, involves cooking chicken inside a bamboo stalk.

Both of these dishes can be found all around Brunei, so just wander into any kedai kopi (coffee shop) in town that sells simple, cheap, and tasty food. If all else fails, check in with your accommodation’s reception for recommendations. Or hit up one of the few notable establishments below:

Kianggeh Market

A covered market in the downtown area where you can get nasi katok , teh tarik (‘pulled’ milk tea), and other street eats.

Aminah Arif Restaurant

This restaurant features ambuyat and a variety of traditional, colourful, and freshly-made kuih muih (traditional cakes) made from recipes passed down from generation to generation.

Gerai Makan

You’ll find a number of outdoor restaurants serving cheap and tasty fare here. It’s a great place to relax and soak in the local atmosphere with a view of Kampong Ayer and water taxis speeding back and forth.

Note: Working days for the government is from Monday – Thursday and Saturday. Meanwhile, semi-government offices and most private sector companies work from Monday to Friday. On Fridays, expect a two-hour break in respect to Friday prayers (12PM-2PM). All shops, offices, and eateries will be closed during this time, so best to make plans for your lunch before noon, unless you plan on a late meal.

brunei female travel

9. Fresh air for everyone

For those into eco-tourism, indulge in the lush greenery and the canopy walk in the Temburong District. Pristine forest still covers most of this exclave, so you’ll definitely get some fresh and clean air here.

If you’re up for it, also visit Ulu Temburong National Park. Do make advance bookings as there’s only one accommodation in the park – the 17-room Ulu Ulu National Park Resort. It’s a low-density and environmentally-friendly facility.

While it’s possible to make a day trip into the park, opting to lodge at the Ulu Ulu National Park Resort will allow you to take the canopy walk at dawn, the best time to observe the flora and fauna. Imagine witnessing gibbons swinging through the treetops, orange-beaked rhinoceros hornbills flapping by, waterfall visits, kayaking, tubing, and medicinal plant walks. Staying the night will also allow you to go on a night jungle walk.

If you’re not willing to explore the forestry of Brunei, Sundays are good for getting a little fresh air around the Bandar, as there are car-free Sundays in the city. Cherish the sight of people running, cycling, or just having some fun with their family from 6AM to 10:30AM.

brunei female travel

10. Mingle with royalty

Annually, the Sultan of Brunei opens his palace (Istana Nurul Iman) to the public. For the last three days, at the end of Ramadan, locals and foreigners get the chance to meet His Majesty. If you time your visit right, you too will be afforded the unique opportunity to meet royalty.

Do prepare for hours-long queues though, with the security line alone oftentimes taking over an hour. In the palace, free meals are offered to visitors, and you can then queue up again in order to meet the Sultan and his queen consort. His Majesty only grants audience to men, but for the ladies, you’ll have the opportunity to shake hands and perhaps even exchange a few words with Queen Saleha.

Cover photo: Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque by Bernard Spragg. NZ via Flickr

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Whiskey drinker. Whimsy finder. Word writer. Sue May is a fan of big words and arcane definitions. Fascinated with stories, this honorary Geordie enjoys stumbling down well-trodden paths, roads less travelled by, and meeting new people. (Sometimes she writes about them.)

Solo Female Travelers

Brunei Solo Female Travel Safety Tips and Advice

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brunei female travel

Welcome to the Solo Female Travel Safety Tips and Advice page for Brunei !

This page is brought to you by Solo Female Travelers Tours , our curated small group trips for women, by women.

On this page you will find first-hand, unbiased, and real  safety tips, advice and reviews  from women traveling solo, submitted directly from their personal experiences in the country.

Their opinions are unfiltered and submitted independently as part of the Solo Female Travel Safety Index , a ranking of 210 countries and regions based on how safe they are for women traveling solo.

The safety scores range from 1 to 4 with 1 being the safest and 4 being the most dangerous for solo female travelers.

You don’t need to login to read the below reviews. But do sign up or login to share your solo travel experiences, country safety rating and comments.

MAKE A DIFFERENCE – LEAVE YOUR SAFETY REVIEWS! We can make the world a safer place for women traveling solo together. Sign up to our portal and leave your reviews NOW. Share your experience with other solo female travelers and help us empower more women through travel.

Brunei Country data

We have compiled a few data points below that can help you better understand Brunei and have more context when thinking about travel safety.

Official country name: Brunei Darussalam.

Etymology: The name Brunei Darussalam means "abode of peace".

Country map

brunei female travel

Locator map

brunei female travel

Capital: Bandar Seri Begawan.

Independence / foundation: The Sultanate of Brunei's influence peaked between the 15th and 17th centuries when its control extended over coastal areas of northwest Borneo and the southern Philippines. Brunei subsequently entered a period of decline brought on by internal strife over royal succession, colonial expansion of European powers, and piracy. In 1888, Brunei became a British protectorate. Independence was achieved in 1984.

Population:

Currency: Bruneian Dollar (BND) 1 USD = 1.25 - 1.50 BND 1 EUR = 1.40 - 1.65 BND

Time zone: UTC+8

Languages spoken: Malay (Bahasa Melayu) (official), English, Chinese dialects.

Religions: Muslim (official) 81%, Christian 7%, Buddhist 7%, other (includes indigenous beliefs) 5%.

Climate: Tropical climate with hot, humid, and rainy weather all year round.

Real GDP (ppp – purchasing power parity): $27 billion.

Real GDP per capita (ppp): $62,200.

Main airports: Brunei International Airport.

World heritage sites in Brunei

There are over 1,100 world heritage sites spread across more than 165 countries. New ones are added every year, and some may be removed from the list for various reasons.

Number of UNESCO listed sites : 0.

Top world heritage sites :

Interesting facts about Brunei

brunei female travel

Further reading : https://www.onceinalifetimejourney.com/reflections-on-the-road/travel-to-brunei-facts/

Brunei Travel tips

Socket type: G. Guide to socket types .

Weekend days: Friday and Sunday. Brunei is the only country in the world that has a non-contiguous working week.

Driving: Cars drive on the Left.

Local taxi apps: Dart .

Travel Guides: Lonely Planet .

Languages spoken : Malay (Bahasa Melayu) (official), English, Chinese dialects.

Basic words and phrases in the main language:

Find a hotel in Brunei

Book tours and activities :

More about Brunei on Solo Female Travelers

Did you spot any errors? We do our best to keep this information updated and accurate, but things change. If you saw anything that is not right, let us know so we can fix it: [email protected] .

About the Solo Female Travel Safety Index

Safety matters to solo female travelers, you told us so in our annual  Solo Female Travel Survey , where year after year, women prove that this is their most important concern when traveling solo.

We wanted to do something about it, so we built these country-specific pages where you can find reviews and scores for 7 key variables affecting the safety of women traveling solo.

  • Risk of scam
  • Risk of theft
  • Risk of harassment
  • Attitudes towards women
  • UK Travel Advisory
  • US Travel advisory
  • Global Peace Index (GPI)

Informing OSAC

The Solo Female Travel Safety Score is used by the Overseas Security Advisory Council for including safety concerns for women travelers in their country security reports; OSAC is a partnership between the U.S. Department of State and private-sector security community.

brunei female travel

How to use the Safety Index

On this page, you will find the country score and the personal opinions on safety of other women traveling solo.

You can sort the comments by:

  • The  level of experience traveling solo  of the reviewer (beginner = <5 trips solo, Intermediate = 5 to 10 trips solo, Experienced = >10 trips solo).
  • The  age  of the traveler.
  • Whether they are a  visitor or local .
  • The  date  they were posted.

The safety scores range from 1 to 4 with 1 being the safest and 4 being the most dangerous for solo female travelers. 

Thus, the lower the score, the safer the country.

Looking for more safety resources?

This entire website is devoted to helping women travel solo. Check out the links below to learn more:

brunei female travel

Solo Female Travel Stats : Results from the the largest, most comprehensive and only global research study on solo female travel trends, preferences and behaviors published.

Thanks to Jacobo Vilella for creating the Solo Female Travelers Safety Index ❤️

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A Community Created To Inspire, Connect, Educate & Empower Female Travelers

ASIA , BRUNEI , COUNTRY GUIDES · December 17, 2018 Last Updated on December 26, 2023

BRUNEI, A SECRET DESTINATION IN ASIA

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Brunei Darussalam is a country rich in culture and heritage. It is a small, peaceful, prosperous kingdom located on the island of Borneo. The Sultanate has four districts: Brunei-Muara, which includes the capital Bandar Seri Begawan, Temburong, Tutong, and Belait. Due to its cultural and historical richness, in recent years it has positioned itself as a promising tourist destination. Brunei remains the world’s only Malay Islamic Monarchy with an unbroken royal lineage that has ruled the nation for the past 600 years. It is also currently known worldwide for its large reserves of oil and natural gas.

The nation became independent in 1984 and because of its larges reserves of oil and gas, it has one of the highest standards of living in the world. Everyone owns a car in Brunei so taxis are very expensive as nobody uses them. Buses are the only public transportation in Brunei and the service ends at about 8 pm. Therefore, I would recommend staying in a very good located hostel/hotel where you can easily walk to the main attractions. You can find a bus from the airport to the city center, but it doesn’t run late.

Brunei is possibly one of the friendliest places to visit in the world. The country used to be a British protectorate, so everyone speaks fluent English. As a girl, you won’t face any kind of problems but, because it is a Muslim country, I would recommend wearing long sleeves and pants. This way it will be easier to visit the beautiful mosques and feel comfortable while walking. It is also important to mention that you have to be careful with what you say about the country, especially the Sultan because it is a sensitive topic with legal implications.

BANDAR SER BEGAWAN

Given the size of the country, it is possible to visit the main tourist attractions of the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan , in a few days. Even if Brunei is small in size, its capital has a lot to offer. Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is one of the most spectacular mosques in the region and the country’s iconic landmark. The mosque was constructed over an artificial lake and has a bridge with a shape of a ship that is only used during official ceremonies. The minarets of the mosque are made of white marble and its domes are covered of gold. The mosque is surrounded by beautiful gardens and fountains which are ideal to have a walk.

A few steps from the main mosque you will find Kampong Ayer, the world’s largest water village that is home to more than 30,000 people living on unique wooden houses on stilts over the Brunei River. On the banks of the river, you can rent a boat to have a better view of the water village. If you are lucky enough, you will be able to see the long-nosed monkey, which is endemic to the island of Borneo. From the boat, you will have a great view of the Nurual Iman Palace. Although not open to the public, except during Hari Raya Aidil Filtri, its golden dome and valued roof can be viewed from Kampong Ayer.

ROYAL REGALIA BUILDING

One of the favorite tourist attractions is the Royal Regalia Building. The museum is home to a collection of royal regalia, including the royal chariot, gold, and silver ceremonial armory, the jewel-encrusted crowns used during the coronations and a replica of the throne, which is used by the Sultan on state occasion. The entrance is free. On the other hand, Brunei’s national museum spotlights Brunei’s role in Southeast Asia’s history. It is famous because of its Islamic Art Gallery and a commendable Quran collection.

JAME’ASR HASSANIL BOLKIAH MOSQUE

Another great construction is Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. This is the biggest mosque in the country and it was built to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the reign of the Sultan. The mosque has 29 domes made of gold and it is surrounded by beautiful gardens. During prayer hours tourists are not allowed to enter so make sure visit the mosque during opening hours: Sun to Wed Time: 8 am- 12noon, 2pm-3pm, and 5pm-6pm. It closes Thursdays and Fridays and shoes are to be removed before entering.

BRUNEI ARTS AND HANDICRAFTS CENTRE

Before leaving the country you must buy some traditional souvenirs. Ancient and traditional arts and crafts, silver, wood carving, and basketry, are showcased in Brunei Arts and Handicrafts Centre. There is also an open-air market on the banks of the Kianggeh River where you can find traditional dishes, fruits, vegetables, and flowers. Here you can taste some Bruneian dishes which are often spicy and are commonly eaten with rice or fish. Due to the predominance of the Islamic religion, the food is halal and pork is avoided. Here is also a good place to have some traditional beverages like tea and coconut milk. As well, The Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Foundation Complex is the capital’s most popular shopping venue. It combines both traditional Malay and modern architecture.

DISTRICTS OF BRUNEI

Outside the capital, you can explore the district of Temburong and visit the Ulu Temburong National Park. Here you can explore Brunei’s lush virgin forest through lofty canopy walkways, scenic hiking trails and a thrilling river ride to the park on the Temburing River. On the other district of Tutong, you can visit Tasek Mermbun, Brunei’s largest lake which has an island in the centre accessible via a wooden walkway and various facilities for picnics. Brunei is arguably best known today as an oil producing country. In the district of Belait, you will find the Oil and Gas Discovery Centre, an interactive science center which aims to make science exciting and accessible.

In this context, it is important to mention that Brunei is ruled by the Islamic law which prohibits the sale and consumption of alcohol. Therefore, there are no bars or nightclubs and restaurants tend to close early. However, you are allowed to drink the homemade rice wine in Temburong district during the harvest festival. If you are interested in culture, history, gastronomy, architecture and sustainable tourism, Brunei is a destination worth exploring. In the same way, the hospitality of people will not disappoint you.

Have you ever visited Brunei? Please share your own tips with our readers in the comments below.

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Read More About Asia

  • 10 Tips For Budget Travel In Southeast Asia
  • 5 Places You Must Visit In Malaysia
  • 5 Places To See In Yogyakarta Indonesia
  • Discovering Siem Reap And The Temples Of Angkor Wat Cambodia

By We Are Travel Girls Contributor Alessia Ramponi of AlessiaRamponi.com   Connect with Alessia  Instagram

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sherlyn mae hernandez

travel and street photographer

SOLO FEMALE TRIP TO BRUNEI: Here’s My Story

I have been on a solo female trip to Brunei more than once for several reasons (for projects, leisure, and personal reasons), but what I will share in this article are mostly coming from the story of my first trip to Brunei.

My first encounter of basic information about Brunei was in high school when I was selected to compete in an ASEAN Quiz Bee as part of the celebration of the ASEAN Foundation Day which is August 8. My high school days was a era of dial-up internet connection and PHP10 per page printing services.

In order for me to collect the information about ASEAN and Southeast Asian countries that I have to review for the quiz bee, I have to save them in a 3 1/2 floppy diskette and bring it to school so that my Quiz Coach could print them on a printer at the Principal’s Office. Yes, guys, that wasn’t really a long time ago, but those were the days.

My blurry memory of my high school knowledge about Brunei was its history as a former British colony when James Brooke led Sarawak, that “Darussalam” means “Abode of Peace”, that His Majesty Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah was their leader, and that there are so many rainforests in Brunei albeit being a small country. Ten years after, I was able to see the place that I could only see in photos from the internet.

Tip # 1: If you’re coming from Manila, flights to Brunei are one of the cheapest, consistently.

One morning, when I was still in my crappy government office job not-so-long ago, I was stuck in traffic (as usual!) on a standing capacity with my elbow pushed towards the headrest of one of the passenger seats of the bus I was in. Thinking I have some spare money to travel, I randomly checked a budget airline website and scanned over the available destinations. “Hmmm which among these places I could go to for the sake of going which will not require me a visa and some tedious preparation?”

I remembered recently talking to a Bruneian friend who told me he’s about to celebrate his birthday, and, lightbulb! I mock-booked a flight to Bandar Seri Begawan and the round trip flight did not even reach USD120 so I booked it instantly.

Tip # 2: Be prepared to be asked, “Brunei? Where’s that?”

Since I have been meeting other travelers from different countries whenever I go to places, I managed to keep in touch with them so that if our current destinations happen to match, we could meet again to catch up. However, I have this mindset that “people come and go” that’s why I don’t really stick with people. *black heart emoji* let’s discuss this part some other time.

Anyway, on my flight, I sent a selfie on the plane to one of my American friends with the note “Flying to Brunei tonight!” Guess what’s his reply: “Brunei? Where’s that?” Aside from him, I met a lot of Westerners being intrigued about Brunei, “Oh, that small country somewhere in Malaysia, right?” (Singapore could also be described exactly that way, am I right?)

Tip # 3: Brunei is a Muslim country. Do your research on the basic Muslim etiquette.

Like most people, I made sure I brought the most conservative clothes I have, in which case I went for my usual long sleeve pullovers + colorful maxi skirts I always wear when traveling. I picked up this habit because I have been traveling to places with temples and churches in the recent past. I even brought a black hijab just in case.

The friend aka the birthday celebrant promised to pick me up at the airport but had an emergency so he sent his cousin to pick me up instead. Having met his cousin for the first time, I introduced myself by offering a handshake, just like how I normally do it when meeting new people casually. I saw the uncomfortable hesitation on his face to return the handshake, but he did it anyway. I was paranoid and asked some Filipino Muslim friends about it.

In Islam, it is not customary to shake the hands of the opposite sex unless they are a close member of the family. During my inquiry with my Muslim friends back home, I was also able to learn basic Islamic greetings, such as “Assalamualaikum”.

Tip # 4: There is no nightlife in Brunei. If you are looking for alcohol, this is not the place for you.

I rented out a room in a nice apartment owned by expats working in Brunei. And as I waved them goodbye to have dinner with some local friends, I saw that they had another foreign visitor and I was sure that I saw a can of beer on the dining table. It left me very, very confused since it is widely known that the sale of alcohol is totally banned in Brunei. However, there is apparently an exemption.

Non-Muslim visitors over 17 years old are allowed to bring alcohol to Brunei for personal consumption (and I heard there’s a lot of customs paperwork along with it). The rules allow them two liters of alcohol and 12 cans of beer.More information HERE .

I noticed that as late as 9PM there are still open establishments and my exaggerated assumption has told me that shops close as early as 6PM. Yes, there are some of them, but there will be shops (mostly restaurants) which will remain open later than 6PM. I randomly asked one of my local friends how come I don’t see people of our age out in the night market or the restaurants late at night. “We are all home by then, probably browsing our social media sites or playing online games”.

So I confirmed when I checked some data that Bruneians are one of the most active social media users in Southeast Asia.

Tip # 5: Bruneians can be the most open-minded and most cosmopolitan people you will ever meet.

As I was eating my spicy nasi katok at Gadong Night Market with some local friends, some local rap-like music has been blasting on a big speaker on one corner (for Filipinos, it’s like those OPM songs like the ones by rapper Ex-Batallion). I asked my friends about the song and they told me it’s an Indonesian song.

I was amazed how Bruneians are well-exposed to Malay and Indonesian culture (which is a little expected because they share a lot of history and language), but since the Philippines has no similar colonial history with Spain in the ‘immediate neighborhood’, it was kind of hard to connect with the rest of Southeast Asia.

When the controversial implementation of sharia law in Brunei made noise to the international community, a local friend who is a law student made efforts through social media to provide FAQs about it to point out that it’s not what the world thinks it is. You go, girl!

Since Brunei is a small state, some locals would most likely go out of the country to travel. The closest destination they have is of course Kuala Lumpur and other places in Malaysia. Then probably parts of Indonesia, Singapore, or even the Philippines. There are also a lot of foreign workers in Brunei (including lots of Filipinos), so they are constantly exposed to people from different nationalities and religions.

Bruneians know a lot about the world albeit being faithful to their Muslim faith. They are more open-minded than we think they are, especially the youth.

Tip # 6: There are a lot of Filipinos in Brunei, and Bruneians love Jollibee, a lot!

One of the people whom I reached out to before coming to Brunei for the first time was my high school classmate who used to work in a marketing firm in Brunei. Aside from the long list of local foods to try she provided me, she told me that His Majesty is very people-centered and would always interact with Bruneians (even taking selfies with them). In fact, he could be found participating in sports activities on Bandarku Ceria, if not horseback riding at the Palace.

As someone who studied a lot about Brunei from high school to graduate school, I would like to experience meeting His Majesty. Since I was still in Brunei when the next Sunday fell, I dragged a local friend to wake up at 6AM to go to Bandarku Ceria. He told me it’s not every Bandarku Ceria that His Majesty will be around. I insisted.

We went to Bandarku Ceria, no His Majesty in sight. Instead, I bumped into a lot of Filipinos who are mostly manning the bazaars at Bandarku Ceria. How did I know they’re Filipinos? They were all talking to me in Tagalog (because, girl, they clearly recognized your ethnicity instantly!)! I also met a lot of restaurant staff who are Filipinos.

On one of my succeeding trips to Brunei, I remember dining in a restaurant alone with Filipino staff hours before the New Year’s Eve and we are all kinda being emotional about being away from our families who were probably lighting some fireworks back home at that moment. New Year is a holiday that is not celebrated in Brunei like the rest of the world does, like, you know, with fireworks and noise.

Back to my disappointment of not seeing His Majesty, my friend told me I should go back at Hari Raya season because the Palace will be open to everyone and it is possible that I could see His Majesty during the event (even though men and women will be segregated and only the men will get to meet His Majesty and the women will get to meet the Queen. Also, he told me that there is a specific kuih (cake) with Nutella that is only served during Hari Raya.

Did I mention that next to Vietnam with more than 100 stores, Brunei has the second largest number of Jollibee branches outside the Philippines in Southeast Asia? Brunei has 17 Jollibee branches (compared to only having three McDonald’s branches) and a lot of Bruneians friends I know have expressed their love for Chickenjoy!

Tip # 7: If there’s a way to describe life in Brunei, it’s “elegantly simple”.

Another stereotype about Bruneians that I commonly hear is that since a lot of things are subsidized by the government (their economy is termed by the academic world as a “Shellfare” economy for being heavily reliant on oil), all Bruneians are rich. I bet this stereotype is common to economically-progressive countries like Singapore, Northeast Asian countries, and Western countries, but you know there’s some stuff we still can’t just assume, right?

Brunei is a car country simply not because people can afford cars (which is considered a luxury in other countries like the Philippines), but their economy kinda made it that way.

Of course, there are still some socio-economic inequality still existing in these “rich countries”. We can talk about this sometime else.

Having observed how life is simple in Brunei, I am living on a close generalization that perhaps yes, Bruneians are living a more than comfortable life but still keeping things simple and basic. To begin with, how can Bruneians have a quality meal in the name of a BND1 nasi katok when in countries like the Philippines, you have to spend around double for a decent meal? My friends would have known how Brunei made me pile up all my frustrations about the Philippines.

Oh, when I had some regular chit-chats with some Filipinos I met along the way, none of them wanted to go back to the Philippines. So life kinda sucks over here in Manila, huh? I agree, I agree, I agree.

Tip # 8: You can wear what you want in Brunei, but out of respect, please dress modestly.

One of the first photos I posted on my Instagram account from my first trip to Brunei was a photo at the Eco-Corridor Park wearing a shirt and tights (because I went jogging that day), and one of my followers commented, “I thought in Brunei all women will be required to wear a hijab?”.

As much as I want to reply “No, you can wear whatever you want” because a local friend told me exactly that (saying because not all Bruneians are Muslims, which is true. They have a Christian and Chinese Buddhist population as well), I want people to respect Brunei, its people and its customs. You will not be apprehended if you wear clothing that shows some skin, but you will get some stares because people are not used to seeing someone walking around in a non-modest attire.

On a more important note, if you are entering mosques, wearing a hijab and the proper attire is required. But don’t worry, mosques in Brunei provide them.

Tip # 9: Yes, Brunei is boring.

On a Sunday, people and cars on the streets are close to zero. Nobody is blowing their horns because it’s illegal. Drivers are very respectful of pedestrians crossing the street. I went to Kota Batu area and I literally hear crickets in broad daylight. There are a lot of very well-maintained recreational forest parks where people can hike and relax.

There are no big malls in Brunei (at least as of writing). There is no nightlife. Restaurants serving pork is close to zero. Alcohol is banned. New Year’s Eve is like a typical night for Bruneians. Everyone is expected to observe and respect Islamic customs. For a traveler who’s looking for some thrill in life, I could categorically say yes, Brunei is boring.

Tip # 10: But given all the hustle and noises from our respective everyday lives, perhaps the calming peace that ‘boring Brunei’ brings is something you will seek for over and over again.

The thing is, there is nothing wrong with boring. In fact, I don’t think it’s an entirely negative word when being associated with Brunei. As someone who experiences noise and city hustle on an everyday basis, a trip to Brunei is something I will look forward to. So far, there is no other place I never felt safe traveling solo than in Brunei. The peace and calmness is addicting. The people are open-minded. Life is simple but very comfortable. The country is small enough to have room for more complicated things in life and society.

After my first trip to Brunei, I expressed my idea of moving there to my closest friends. While as of writing I am still based in Manila, fate has brought me to a setup where I was able to visit Brunei more times than I imagined, so no wonder I know this much. To be honest it’s not all rainbows and butterflies, but if given the chance, I still have the same longing for the peace and kind of life that Brunei can provide me. But for now, I can always go back to Brunei over and over again.

SOLO FEMALE TRIP TO BRUNEI: Your thoughts are welcome!

Oh, I see you’ve reached this far! After all, what’s travel without some drama, right?

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Wanderlustingk

Travel in Brunei: 13 must-know travel tips for Brunei Darussalam

December 18, 2017 by Karen Turner 26 Comments

I chose to visit Brunei Darussalam this year after two Bruneian friends invited me to visit Bandar Seri Begawan. I love reading blogs, but I can’t believe how  wrong  some of them were about travel in Brunei for Westerners.

Let’s set the record straight about must-knows before you travel to Brunei, what to wear in Brunei without offending folks, and what to expect when traveling in Brunei. (Thanks to B., C., and D. for showing us around Brunei.)

brunei female travel

  • 1 Don’t underestimate this small Asian sultanate
  • 2 Controversial statement: Bruneians are some of the friendliest people you’ll meet while traveling
  • 3 Sharia law doesn’t apply to everyone in the same way, but use your judgment
  • 4 Brunei is boring if you’re trying to party in Brunei
  • 5 How to dress appropriately in Brunei
  • 6 What to wear in Brunei for women
  • 7 What to wear in Brunei for men
  • 8 Politics are better not discussed.
  • 9 Public transit isn’t that commonly used.
  • 10 Bruneian food y’all.
  • 11 Everyone speaks English and people are super friendly
  • 12 Don’t miss Ulu Temburong National Park
  • 13 LGBT rights
  • 14 Brunei isn’t cheap
  • 15 In Bandar Seri Begawan, don’t miss the Kampong Ayer water village
  • 16 When is the best time to visit Brunei?
  • 17 Have you been to Brunei? What do you recommend that tourists traveling in Brunei know?

Don’t underestimate this small Asian sultanate

Photo of mosque in Brunei. Read about what to wear in Brunei, travel tips for Brunei, and must-knows for visiting Brunei.

A lot of people only visit one or two days in Brunei, but I’d say at least four days in Brunei is perfect.  There’s more to do than people realize, so if you’re only visiting Brunei for two days, you won’t get to visit Ulu Temburong National Park.  It’s a fascinating country and not the kind to rush through.

Controversial statement: Bruneians are some of the friendliest people you’ll meet while traveling

Bruneians LOVE tourists and Brunei might be one of the friendliest places to visit in the world. Every single street, people would welcome me to Brunei before asking where I’m from.

Even as we got onto a bus going to Malaysia, we were welcomed to Brunei by a friendly local who passed by the luggage hold.  (It was a bit awkward to explain we were about to get on the bus to Miri.) Bruneians absolutely love travel, so expect to hear some stories about what they thought of your country too.

The whole reason I went to Brunei was that I met two girls from Brunei who invited me to visit Brunei.  This was years ago.  True to their word, our Bruneian hosts showed us around, took us out to dinner, and tried to ensure that we tried traditional Bruneian food by showing them a little slice of their lives in Brunei.  My most important tip: Make Bruneian friends! I recommend using Couchsurfing to make new friends .

Sharia law doesn’t apply to everyone in the same way, but use your judgment

Photo of man walking towards mosque in Brunei. Read more tips on things to know about Brunei and tips for travel in Brunei. #Brunei #Travel #Asia

Brunei has sharia law, but sharia law doesn’t equally apply to non-Muslims depending on the law .  This is a  big misconception I see on a lot of blogs written about travel in Brunei.  This was told to us by so many people and although I had no plans to break the law, I was a bit nervous before our trip.

Once we were in Brunei, I was shocked how laid-back Brunei felt.  That said, don’t be stupid and stick to your best behavior as tourists are still a rarity in Brunei. We don’t need a bad reputation abroad (We’re both Americans…)

Many Bruneians that we met were frustrated by Brunei’s perception abroad, due to stories by sensationalist newspapers elsewhere. This is not to say that you should be careless, but it’s good to stay informed about recent changes in Brunei, including the 2019 update to Sharia law in regards to theft and homosexua lity.

Tourists are beloved, but still, try to be respectful and use your judgment.  This involves trying just a little bit with dressing respectfully with not wearing sheer/ripped clothing that might attract attention at home.

Brunei is boring if you’re trying to party in Brunei

Photo of rainforest in Ulu Temburong National Park in Brunei. Read travel tips for Brunei and how many days to spend in Brunei. #Brunei #Travel #Asia

My mother-in-law likes to say only boring people get bored.  A lot of people find Brunei boring as it doesn’t have nightlife, but we loved Brunei.  I went all in trying to experience local Bruneian culture and came with an open mind.

  • No, you can’t wear your short shorts.
  • Yes, there are no nightclubs or bars.
  • Yes, there’s no alcohol sold in most of Brunei. However, it’s allowed if you’re drinking the homemade rice wine with the Iban in the Temburong district during the harvest festival.

That said, Bruneians love lingering at coffee shops and restaurants over long dinners and coffees at night, so you’ll find many restaurants open until 10/11pm still serving food.

If you’re into culture, sustainable tourism, and elaborate architecture, you will probably enjoy traveling in Brunei.

Bruneians are proud of their country and happy to show a little piece of Brunei to foreigners, but you also need to be interested in experiencing Brunei. If you’re following the Southeast Asia party route, you’ll hate Brunei.

How to dress appropriately in Brunei

Although I read a lot of blogs about travel in Brunei and I asked a lot of people about what was appropriate to wear in Brunei, so I came off my flight wearing a hijab, a long-sleeve shirt, and a long skirt.  Immigration asked me if I was Muslim. I had to explain that I was trying to be respectful before the officer was like …. Thanks, but you don’t need to try hard.  Okay officer. 😉

I was lucky to visit friends in Brunei who told me not to worry much about appropriate clothes in Brunei while other female travelers in the travel community told me to dress very conservatively.

I think somewhere in between the two is best as one girl at our homestay did not dress appropriately (crop tops / sheer clothing / short shorts with rips) both inside/outside the home. It was not appreciated by our host.

Brunei is very humid and as a tourist, you’ll be walking around in the heat day-time, so keep this in mind when looking for clothing for Brunei.

What to wear in Brunei for women

What did I wear in Brunei? Most days, I wore a non-sheer loose fitting t-shirt, jeans, a silk scarf, and sandals.

On some days, I wore a tulle skirt (MISTAKE as it is a really heavy material) with a t-shirt. I’d recommend a lighter material.

Do not wear short shorts in Brunei and stick to lighter fabrics (think cottons). If you’re planning on visiting the national park, bring a bathing suit to go swimming in the waterfall!

Just in general, avoid excessive skin, cleavage, sheer clothing, and clothing with holes that might be seen as revealing. Use your judgment and try to dress appropriately in Brunei.

To get into the major mosques in Brunei, they will give you a garment to wear over your clothes and as well as a hijab, so no need to bring your own.

brunei female travel

You see some Bruneian women dressed more conservatively, but I saw some women who were not Muslim wearing shorts (let me clarify: knee-length shorts). For women, I’d recommend a comfy appropriate skirt /t-shirt combination with a cotton/silk scarf.

I recommend a scarf as it’s nice to be able to cover up your arms when you’re in restaurants/cafes as the air conditioning can be quite high and you don’t want anything heavy.

I don’t recommend a dress as I ended up sweating through my dress while walking around day-time.

A skirt/t-shirt combination allows more possibilities for a clean outfit if you’re not packing a lot of clothes as you can just swap your t-shirt out for a clean one the next day!

brunei female travel

For going out to eat at sit-down Bruneian restaurants, bring a nice modest knee-length dress as eating out is a big deal in Brunei. People definitely dress up for a nice sit-down dinner, so I recommend getting dolled up with a nice dress and makeup.

Couple in Brunei. Read about what to wear in Brunei and appropriate clothing for Brunei for foreigners with outfits for travel in Brunei for women.

What to wear in Brunei for men

brunei female travel

For men, we’d recommend wearing pants with a plain t-shirt (preferably white to help with the heat) are okay. My husband is a metalhead and toned it down while we were in Brunei although we saw some wearing printed/band t-shirts (although not metal t-shirts) around Brunei. We did see some Westerners in knee-length shorts too.

Politics are better not discussed.

Be careful what you say about Brunei, especially about the Sultan.  This is a sensitive topic, with legal implications, and it’s best not to discuss politics in Brunei, especially if you have something critical to say.  Remember:  Brunei does not have freedom of speech.

Public transit isn’t that commonly used.

I asked my Bruneian friends about it and they drive everywhere. If you’re visiting without a car, be wary of planning your journey entirely by public bus.  There is  a bus from the airport to the city center, but it does not run late.

Brunei’s waterfront is fairly walkable, however for further distances or on especially hot days, you will want to take a taxi.  It’s best to stay close to the city center unless you’re willing to splurge on taxis. (Note:  there aren’t  that many hotels in Brunei, so book ahead as the good ones sell out.)

For taxis (or something similar to Uber), download Dart to get rides around Brunei. This is a local app where you can provide your location, see the cost, and have a local taxi driver pick you up.

Photo from the Kampong Ayer water village in Brunei. Read insider tips on what to know before you visit Brunei and what to wear in Brunei.

Bruneian food y’all.

I thought  Singaporeans loved food, but I had never visited Brunei.  Bruneians are HUGE foodies, so don’t leave without trying ambuyat and sampling the Bruneian food at the night markets . The seafood is fresh and very spicy, so if you see a local food centre, consider trying some seafood.  I swear, I gained 5 pounds while in Brunei.

A local also recommends ‘Nasi Katok’ .  I had a number of traditional dishes and I wish that I could remember the names of all the food that I had.  Just be adventurous and it will be delicious ( I hope).  I also really loved the dried squid with chili.

Everyone speaks English and people are super friendly

Bruneians speak flawless English.  In case you forgot, Brunei used to be a British protectorate, so not surprisingly, English is still taught in schools.  That said, many menus may be in Malay, but if you ask, the locals are happy to help.

Don’t miss Ulu Temburong National Park

Photo of bridge in Ulu Temburong National Park. Read about travel in Brunei and what you need to know before you visit Brunei.

Brunei may produce a lot of oil, but the government has made significant conservation efforts to preserve its incredible environment, and Brunei has some of the best preserved virgin rainforests in the world.

60% of the country is made up of virgin rainforest, which is unaffected by human activity.  The parts of Ulu Temburong that the public can access are limited, but incredible.

From the top of the slightly terrifying canopy bridge (not for those with a fear of heights..), you an see rainforest for miles… and the boat ride upstream in a traditional boat is worth it.

Read tips for visiting Ulu Temburong National Park.

Adventure travelers, you'll want to visit the canopy bridge in Ulu Temburong National Park in Brunei for a canopy walk worth bragging about!

LGBT rights

We can’t avoid talking about LGBT rights in Brunei as many people avoid going to Brunei for this specific reason.  Let’s be clear: there’s a death penalty for same-sex sexual activity, and non-gender conforming people may have issues . Recent changes in Bruneian law mean that LGBT travelers should show significant caution prior to traveling in Brunei.

We met some LGBT travelers who told us that LGBT travelers could visit Brunei with no problems with some precautions regarding appearances, getting separate hotel rooms if traveling together, not posting photos on social media, keeping a low profile, and being very careful as the government takes homosexuality seriously.

That said, travelers who are coming to Brunei will be surprised by the friendliness of its citizens towards any foreign tourists, but it’s your call if you’re willing to visit a country where homosexuality is illegal and enforced by law. I think that Meg Cale’s article about travel in anti-LGBT destinations is a good read if you’re on the fence.

Brunei isn’t cheap

You’ll find hotel prices in Brunei similar to prices in Singapore although hotel prices were surprisingly high.

Where to stay in Brunei: City Center

If you’re coming from Malaysian Borneo, brace yourself for hotel prices that are generally higher than $50.  Homestays are catching on within Brunei, so consider doing a homestay if you want to experience a bit beyond the hotel.

 We stayed at the  Kunyit 7 Lodge , a sustainable tourism homestay in the middle of the Kampong Ayer water village.  Book your accommodation in Brunei as there’s not  that  many hotels in BSB.  The good ones that are affordable book up. I was about to book two different hotels and both rooms actually sold out for the dates that we visited Brunei in December after I waited a few days just to decide. 

Check hotel prices in BSB now!  

Nearly all the attractions in BSB are free, so expect to save some money on sightseeing although you’ll end up spending money on drinking ice cold coffee as it’s pretty hot day time.  Similarly, visiting Ulu Temburong isn’t cheap, but it’s worth it 100%.

In Bandar Seri Begawan, don’t miss the Kampong Ayer water village

Kampong Ayer water village in Brunei. Read travel tips for travel in Brunei with insider tips for what to wear in Brunei.

I’ve visited a lot of countries and a lot places, but few places have inspired such awe in my mind.  Kampong Ayer is a fully functional village on stilts and it’s not just for tourists; people actually live there. I have no idea how it’s not a UNESCO attraction, but I suspect that it might become one in the future.  See it before the rest of the world discovers it…

When is the best time to visit Brunei?

Probably not summer as it’s hot year-round, but especially hot in summer.

There are four great times to visit Brunei:

  • July 15th for the Sultan’s Birthday. If you’re considering visiting for the Sultan’s birthday, bring a fancy modest outfit that covers your arms, closed toe shoes, and a hijab (ladies). You will not be admitted otherwise. There’s a long line to get in, but if you’re curious what the sultan’s palace looks like, this is your chance to get in!  According to a kind local, you will only see the Sultan’s car on this day.
  • Apparently the best day is Eid Day (date varies).  Men will be able to meet the Sultan while women can meet the Queen.
  • We were luckily enough to visit just in time for the Regatta to see the boats racing on the Brunei river.  There’s a few each year, so check for events ahead.
  • If you’re into fireworks and celebrations, visit for the National Day celebrations on February 23rd.
  • June 1st for the Harvest Festival in the eastern part of the country.   It might shock people visiting Brunei for the first time, but there are non-Muslims living in Brunei.  One of the major ethnic groups of Brunei is Iban.  The Iban have their own culture and villages in the Temburong province, so consider visiting to take part in the annual harvest festival in Bangar.  It’s considered lucky if the vat of homemade rice wine prepared by each family is finished before the end of the festival, so non-Muslims, expect to give some assistance.

Have you been to Brunei? What do you recommend that tourists traveling in Brunei know?

Enjoyed this? Click for tips on things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan , visiting Ulu Temburong National Park , my complete Borneo itinerary , or an insider’s guide to Singapore.

Planning to visit Brunei Darussalam, the sultanate on Borneo? Essential travel tips for travel in Brunei with fashion tips. #Borneo #Asia #Travel #Brunei

About Karen Turner

New Yorker–born and raised. Currently living in the Hague, the Netherlands after stints in Paris and Amsterdam. Lover of travel, adventure, nature, city, dresses, and cats.

Reader Interactions

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December 19, 2017 at 1:55 am

OMG! I cant believe the office said that to you! But thanks for clarifying!

January 17, 2018 at 1:26 pm

Hello! Thank you SO much for these great posts about Brunei! I’m off to Brunei tomorrow, and I’m so excited! Can I ask you about transportation? What’s the best way to get from the airport to BSB? And what’s the best way to get around on daily basis? Thanks in advance 🙂

January 17, 2018 at 5:56 pm

Hi Lene, There’s a public bus that goes into the city that costs $1 as soon as you leave Arrivals. You should see a sign for a Public Bus, so just ask if you don’t. Just ask for directions as soon as you get there. Once you’re in the city, it’s very walkable besides getting to the water village (water taxi) although you might want to take a cab if you go to one of the further spots. Some hotels will arrange pick up for you. It’s best to carry a little cash on you for taxis and water taxis.

Glad these helped and hope you enjoy!

Best, Karen

January 24, 2018 at 7:07 pm

Hi Che, I heard the buses stop early and you’ll need to take a taxi if it’s late. I wish you a great trip in Brunei. 🙂

January 31, 2018 at 2:40 am

Hi Karen, As a Bruneian i see that many of your information is spot on. Glad to see some tourists appreciate Brunei which is underrated in terms of tourism. Just to add information and just a small correction. 1) During the Sultan’s Birthday you will only see him in his car when he passes by from the palace to the city centre where the main event takes place. If you want to see the Sultan in person and shake his hand is on Eid Day (You have to check your calendar as Eid Day falls at different dates every year) and only men are allowed to see the Sultan while the women are allowed to see the Queen. Just brace yourselves for the long que.

2) Another best time to visit Brunei is during the National Day celebrations which falls on the 23rd of February.

3) For local delights, i recommend eating ‘Nasi Katok’ that is rice with fried chicken with a little red spicy sweet sauce wrapped in paper. Its sold in many food stalls or the Gadong food market. It’s cheap (BND1) and most important delicious. A fast food restaurant called ‘Ideal’ and try their roasted chicken. It’s unique. There are many other delicacies but these two are the most famous among ‘ambuyat’ that i heard from other visitors.

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February 24, 2018 at 9:24 am

Your posts regarding Brunei are really helpful, thanks a lot! 🙂

Do you have any updated info on the public buses in BSB? Been trying to search online but it is so limited. Would like to travel by public buses during my short trip in BSB.

brunei female travel

February 24, 2018 at 10:56 am

Hi Shanice, let me shoot a message to my friends about it (I’ll reply once I hear back) although I know ALL of them drive. It’s best to stay close to the city center as not to inconvenience yourself as the main bus line goes between city center of BSB and the airport. Once you’re in Brunei, it’s possible to arrange transportation on private buses/ferries to nearby cities if you talk to anyone in the tourism industry.

Glad to hear that!

March 3, 2018 at 2:16 pm

Thanks Karen!

And yes, will just be trvelling around BSB but there are some places ie. The Mall & the night market @ Gadong that is located a little far out from my accom, which requires me to arrange transport. A new public transport Dart was also launched just months ago too!

Hope to hear from you soon! 🙂

March 3, 2018 at 4:54 pm

Hi Shanice, I haven’t heard anything back from my friends yet, however Gadong shouldn’t be too far by taxi from the center (maybe 15 minutes). Curious what you think about the Dart public transit option when you’re there. 🙂

I’ll remind them to answer.

Apologies, Karen

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May 11, 2018 at 5:10 pm

hello! is the hariraya scheduled on june? or july? thank you very much!!

May 13, 2018 at 7:39 pm

In 2018, it’s 15 Jun to 19 Jun.

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June 19, 2018 at 5:33 am

hi .. may i ask if its possible to get a taxi late night ? or do they have grab ? we will be arriving around 11.45 pm from manila Philippines.

June 20, 2018 at 3:38 am

Look up DART! It’s a new app similar to Grab for Brunei.

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June 20, 2018 at 7:49 am

Very informative post! Thanks a lot for writing in such detail. Planning t trip to Brunei and your blog is immensely helpful!

Keep writing!

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October 14, 2018 at 1:23 pm

Is Brunei safe for solo female travelers?

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October 14, 2018 at 2:55 pm

Hi MM, A few female friends of mine have traveled solo in Brunei. They were quite comfortable. 🙂 Best, Karen

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April 4, 2019 at 11:54 am

Thank you so much for the very informative article! Many things you said there will come in handy for my up coming trip there.

I have a question, what is you view on… I am going there with my opposite sex partner. We are non-Muslim and are not married. We are planning to stay in same hotel room. Is that just a no no? I am very worried about the newly in place adultery punishment! Some people said it doesn’t apply to foreigners, some say it does… Any idea?

And again, thank you for the article and for sharing your travel experience 🙂

April 5, 2019 at 6:05 pm

Hi Julz, I was married when I visited, but I’ve met others who were unmarried and had no problems traveling in Brunei. I’d skew on the side of more conservative if asked about your marital status.

Kind regards, Karen

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July 15, 2019 at 12:47 pm

SO interesting and I want to travel there but there’s the thing I worry the most is : seafood allergy which I have, There’s any restaurants without seafood? Brunei is know for seafood right?

July 17, 2019 at 12:21 am

Hi Melody, I hope that it’s not an issue, however, I can’t say for sure. I recommend asking your hotel or accommodations to look up restaurants that cater well to other allergies. Hopefully, you’ll find somewhere good!

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October 9, 2020 at 11:44 am

Wow this is very interesting! I’ll like to visit Bunrnel sometimes very soon. Love your write ups and hints! Very handy and straight forward! Thanks for this.

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February 21, 2022 at 1:37 am

Hi this post is so helpful thankyou! I’m thinking of spending 1 week here as I travel around aisa but I’m struggling to find transport out of the country. I’m going to the Indonesian area of the island next making my way down to evenutaully et to Jakarta. Do you have any information on how to leave Brunei and where to travel to next?

Thanks in advance!

March 17, 2022 at 9:38 pm

The world is a weird place right now, so I would recommend checking the options for flying out of Brunei (mostly Royal Brunei air).

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October 16, 2022 at 10:12 pm

Is Brunei ok for one to migrate to,what I mean is did they have jobs that pays well? Thanks for your write up bro.

[…] you might be visiting a couple restaurants with intense air conditioning during your trip (especially in Brunei) I recommend having a comfortable light layer that you can put […]

[…] You can read travel tips for Brunei here. […]

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Travel Fashion Girl

What to Wear in Brunei: A Packing Guide

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brunei female travel

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Wondering what to wear in Brunei? From exploring this tiny country’s many mosques to its beautiful beaches and lush jungle, here’s everything you need to pack for this Southeast Asian country.

What to Wear in Brunei

Written by: Lola Méndez

Brunei is relatively undiscovered by international travelers but it has endless hidden gems waiting to be discovered. It’s one of three countries that occupy the tropical island of Borneo.

It is the most biodiverse place in the world and Brunei is the leader in sustainable practices, known as the green gem of Borneo. Here, you won’t find animals in captivity or palm tree plantations. Incredible wildlife can be witnessed by cruising on the river, staying in Iban longhouses in the rainforest, or climbing up canopy walks.

City lovers will enjoy spending the day in the capital city of BSB, while culture lovers will be mesmerized by the cities beautiful mosques. Those looking to relax can find tranquil turquoise waters at Labuan island.

Check out our 10 Step Packing Guide for Southeast Asia !

Brunei Clothing Style

When packing for Brunei, be conscious that you’re visiting a Muslim-majority country where certain dress codes are expected. Local women, besides those of Chinese descent, wear hijabs and never show any skin.

Female travelers are not expected to wear a hijab, but it is important to be respectful of the culture and to pack conservative clothing when putting together your capsule wardrobe .

Read these tips on  how to dress for conservative countries !

Brunei Weather

Brunei has one season–summer! No matter when you visit you can expect warm temperatures and occasional rain. Lightweight fabrics and some rain gear would be advisable if you plan to spend time outside.

Find out what to wear on a rainy day .

Below is a list of what to wear in Brunei depending on your activities:

brunei female travel

Earrings  |  Lipstick  | Top |  Pants  |  Bag  |  Sandals

What to Wear in Brunei When Exploring BSB

BSB’s major highlights are visiting the largest water village in the world, hiring a boat to spot proboscis monkeys, and visiting beautiful mosques.

Visit the lakefront Omar Ali Saifuddien and the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah. Both allow non-Muslims to enter and they provide robes that all visitors are required to wear.

Linen clothing is perfect for summer and warm weather travel!

To dress appropriately, wear loose pants in a breathable fabric like linen or cotton paired with your favorite top. Women here love to have fun with their makeup so put on a bold lipstick to pull your look together.

For walking around a city, I always wear leather sandals. A rubber sole is super durable and a soft footbed makes it feel like you’re walking on the beach.

Here are comfortable walking sandals that are also stylish.

brunei female travel

Tank | Backpack | Leggings  | Raincoat | Insect Repellent | Bottle | Shoes

What to Wear in Brunei for Rainforest Adventures

Brunei’s conservation efforts have resulted in amazing opportunities to experience the native flora and fauna. I spent two nights glamping at the Sumbiling Eco Village, which is operated by Iban tribe members.

During the stay, we swam in the river, went on a sunrise hike and a night jungle walk, and gathered food in the forest. Don’t miss the canopy walk, long boat ride, and waterfalls!

Each activity was muddy, so pack a rain jacket and some sort of water shoes inside your packing cubes until you need them–they’re better than sneakers or hiking boots here. If you don’t have time for an overnight stay you can also hike to spectacular views on Pulau Berambang, an island five minutes from the city by boat.

Take a look at the most popular rain jacket for women and water shoes for travel!

Another option is to take a day trip to the gorgeous Tasek Merimbun Heritage Park. You’ll see plenty of wildlife and get to interact with local villagers. Borneo Guide operates guided tours to both. They employ locals and support endangered communities.

For day trips you’ll want to wear something lightweight, easy to move in, and water resistant. I wore leggings and an exercise tank but carried a local sarong to drape over my body when we interacted with locals out of respect for their culture.

These are what TFG readers voted on the best leggings for women when traveling!

brunei female travel

Hat | Bag | Sunscreen | Swimsuit | Top | Sunglasses | Sandals

What to Wear in Brunei for Beach Days

If you do get the urge to swim, make sure to never do so in the Brunei River. During my trip, we saw a six-foot crocodile very close to the city center!

The ocean, on the other hand, is perfectly safe for swimming. Labuan Island is popular but difficult to reach as there is only one ferry each morning and one returning in the afternoon. The best beaches to visit on the mainland are Serasa, Muara, and Berakas.

If you prefer to hang out at a country club, The Empire is beautiful. The beaches here are mostly sandy and easy to reach so sandals are a good footwear choice.

Take a look at the eleven  beach sandals our readers rave about

Although Brunei is an extremely conservative country, it’s acceptable to wear the swimwear of your choice here. Pack a crop top that you can wear over a one-piece for extra coverage. It’s still comfortable to wear in the water, unlike a loose t-shirt. A long sarong can be worn as a skirt as you hang out on the beach.

Make sure to bring beach basics, including sunscreen, sunglasses, and a quick-dry towel. Pack insect repellent to keep away mosquitos and put a light layer of a natural oil over your sunscreen to keep away sand flies.

These are the  best swimsuit coverups of the season!

what-to-wear-in-brunei

What are your tips on what to wear in Brunei? Share in the comments!

For more Asia packing lists, please read:

  • What to Wear to Walk the Great Wall of China
  • What to Wear in Hong Kong
  • What to Wear in Mongolia
  • 10-Step Packing Guide for Southeast Asia

Suggested Travel Resources:

  • Lonely Planet Southeast Asia on A Shoestring
  • Lonely Planet Borneo (Travel Guide)

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brunei female travel

I hope you liked this post about what to wear in Brunei. Please share with your friends on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest. Thanks for reading!

brunei female travel

Author Bio:  Lola Méndez is a full-time traveler sharing her adventures on  Miss Filatelista  as she adds to her collection of passport stamps. She travels to develop her own worldview and has explored 46 countries. Passionate about sustainable travel she seeks out ethical experiences that benefit local communities. You can follow her on  Facebook ,  Instagram , and  Twitter .

Vieews

Amazing tips Lola and great pictures. Seems like Brunei is a cool place to visit.

brunei female travel

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Brunei travel blog — The fullest Brunei travel guide for first-timers

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Brunei is a small country (only about 5.765 km²) but very rich and prosperous. Not as famous as Singapore or Thailand, but Brunei is known as the world’s richest Muslim kingdom, traveling to Brunei you not only visit the famous places but also have the opportunity to explore and experience life lavish of this kingdom. With a small population and huge oil revenues, so the wealth in Brunei is evident in everywhere. Especially, It is very clear in the mosques. In recent years, Brunei has always been an attractive and extremely interesting destination with many features of natural as well as culinary and cultural. Now, let’s check it out our Brunei blog (Brunei travel blog) with the fullest Brunei travel guide (Brunei guide) for a wonderful and budget trip to Brunei for the first-timers below.

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Brunei blog: When to visit Brunei?

Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Like other Southeast Asian countries, Brunei’s climate is divided into two seasons, the rainy season and the dry season, but this division is not really clear and it also does not affect much on your trip. From September to January every year is a humid season with average temperatures between from 24 degrees Celsius to 31 degrees Celsius. The weather is quite humid and uncomfortable, with heavy rains, so you avoid traveling to Brunei in this time. The period from April to August, the weather during this period is very pleasant, so this is the best time to visit Brunei.

sunrise-brunei-rainforest

In Brunei, there are two main celebrations that you should know:

Ramadan: It takes place within a month starting in mid-May, this month the Brunei people will be eat vegetarian or not eat at all during the daylight, so when traveling in this time, you should avoid eating in front of the people.

Ramadan

Hari Raya Aidilfitri: It takes place after Ramadan in the middle of September, pilgrims from all over the world come here to meet, greet and receive souvenirs from the Sultan and the Queen (a chocolate bar is sealed by Royal stamp or 5 Brunei dollars (BND) if is a child) on the occasion the Royal palace open only once a year, to receive good luck.

Brunei's Sultan celebrates Muslim festival of Hari Raya Aidilfitri in Bandar Seri Begawan

Brunei travel blog: How to get to Brunei?

According to Brunei travel experience, there are no direct flights from Vietnam, so you have to transit in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore or Malaysia and then getting to Brunei. Here is how to getting from Vietnam to Brunei short and convenient by air as follows.

Brunei_International_Airport

From Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City you can buy tickets from airlines such as: Air Asia, Vietnam Airlines to Kuala Lumpur. Then from Kuala Lumpur you can go to Brunei in two ways:

You can buy cheap air tickets from airlines such as AirAsia for round trip Hanoi – Kuala Lumpur or Ho Chi Minh City – Kuala Lumpur. Then you continue to fly round trip Kuala Lumpur – Brunei.

Tourist Information Centre at Brunei Airport

When arrived at Brunei Airport you must pay the airport fee of 12 Brunei Dollar or 12 Singapore Dollar (note that the airline only accepts paper money).

miri-to-brunei-coach

  • From Miri Airport in Malaysia, you buy a taxi ticket to the Long Distance Bus Station, it takes 26 Ringgit (about $6.4) per trip.
  • Then from the bus station you buy tickets to Brunei of PHLS Express company for 25 Ringgit (about $6.11). There are only 2 trips for a day at 7am and 15:45pm so you should keep in mind.
  • In the opposite direction at the bus station of Bandar (Brunei), only PHLS Express company sells tickets from Brunei to Miri (Malaysia) for 18 Brunei Dollar or 18 Singapore Dollar.

Note: Israeli citizens may be banned enter Brunei. Southeast Asia countries has no need VISA.

Getting from Brunei Airport to the city center

Bandar Seri Begawan Bus Station

In Brunei there is only one main bus station in the center of the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan Bus Station, so all arrivals / departures are pass this station. There is a very large details map of all bus routes in Brunei. If you a backpack visitor to Brunei remember get here to refer to it first!

brunei bus routes map

There are 4 easiest bus routes from the airport to the city center (and back) are 23, 24, 34 and 38, blue cars. Buses in Brunei are quite old but run smoothly and safely. Ticket prices for all route or a half route are B$1 (1 Brunei Dollar), rno matter which bus route. That means you just have to pay B$1 and you want to get down at any place, at any time.

bus 38

Brunei blog: How to getting around Brunei?

Water-Taxi-in brunei

The main means of transport in Brunei are buses, cars and taxis. Each type of vehicle has its own advantages. If you want to go around to exploring the capital, you should take the bus, because here the bus system is very cheap, safe and convenient. But if you want to go deep in inner of the country, you must rent a car or take a train. As follows:

Bandar Seri Begawan.

Taxi: Most of the Brunei people have their own cars so there are only about 50 taxis in the country. If you want to take a taxi from the airport to the city center it will take about 20 minutes at a cost of 25 – 30 Brunei Dollar. But you will be wait a long time.

taxi in brunei

Bus: The special feature of the Brunei bus has no waiting point, you stand at the edge of the road for 5 to 10 minutes, you can tell the driver about your destination. The fare for one bus trip is 1 Dollar Brunei.

bus brunei

Bus routes to distant locations

  • Brunei International Airport: Bus No.23, 24, 34, 35, 36, 38
  • Kuala Lurah: Bus No.42, 44
  • Kuala Belait/Tutong District (pass the Proposed Rimba Terminal): Bus No.22, 57
  • Kianggeh Jetty: Bus No.39
  • Labuan/Kg Menumbok (Kota Kinabalu) pass Muara Passenger/Car Ferry Terminal: Bus No.33, 37, 38, 39

bus no23 brunei

Bus routes to places of interest

  • Brunei Royal Regalia Museum: All bus routes
  • Jame Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque: Bus No.01, 20, 22
  • Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque: All bus routes
  • Tasek Lama Recreational Park: Bus No.01
  • Museums of Brunei: All bus routes
  • Jerudong Park: Bus No.55

Bus No. 45

Brunei travel blog: Where to stay in Brunei?

The Empire Hotel and Country Club

Most hotels in Brunei are very expensive. However, there are many cheap hotels in Brunei, but if you have a lot of money you can stay in more upscale hotels. The rental price is an average of $55 per night/per room. Here are some budget hotels you can refer to:

Jubilee hotel

  • Jubilee Hotel (2 star standard). Address: Jubilee Plaza, Jalan Kampong Kianggeh, BS 8111 Bandar Seri Begawan. Room rates from $40/night.
  • The Brunei Hotel (3 star standard). Address: 95, Jalan Pemancha, BS8811 Bandar Seri Begawan.
  • Badiah Hotel : (3 star standard). Address: Mile 1 1/4, Jalan Tutong , Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan. Room rates from $55/night.
  • Qing Yun Resthouse Sdn Bhd (1 star standard): Address: No 16 1st floor ,block I ,Abdul Razak complex,jalan Gadong BE3519,Brunei Darussalam. Room rates from $30/night.
  • Palm Garden Hotel Brunei (3 star standard). Address: Lot 45328, Simpang 88, Kampong Kiulap, BE1518 BSB. Room rates from $40/night.
  • Mulia Hotel (4 star standard). Address: EDR No. BD 30040 Lot No 31954, Kg Anggerek Desa, Mukim Barakas, Brunei-Muara, Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan, agoda.

Palm Garden Hotel Brunei

If you have more money then the following are high-end (luxury) hotels in Brunei with furniture, professional services, facilities, luxury equipment, modern that you refer to:

The Rizqun International Hotel

  • The Rizqun International Hotel : Address: Abdul Razak Complex, Gadong, Gadong, Bandar Seri Begawan, 5 star standard and room rates from $121.66/night.
  • The Empire Hotel and Country Club : Address: Jerudong Negara BG 3122, Jerudong, Bandar Seri Begawan, 5 star standard and room rates from $194.33/night.
  • OSP Puni Indah Luxury Residence : Address: Jalan Ong Sum Ping, Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan with, 4 star standard and room rate from $183.21/night.

The Empire Hotel and Country Club

However, there is a very interesting way to explore the culture and learn about the customs and habits of the people of Brunei is to apply for stay in homestay. The people of Brunei are very hospitable and willing to help others. You just login into the Couchsurfing Social Networking site to apply for homestay.

Guesthouses

brunei guest house

If there are no conditions to stay in the hotel you can rent a cheap guesthouse for about 10 Brunei dollars. Below is a list of some popular budget guesthouses you can refer to:

  • Pusat Belia (Youth Center Hostel) . Address: Simpang 336-17, Jalan Kebandasan, Bandar Seri Begawan.
  • Harmoni Ria Guesthouse . Address: 21 Jalan Medewa, Km 7, Jalan Tutong, Bandar Seri Begawan.

borneo-hotels.jpg

You can find, check rates, availability & booking for other hotels in Brunei on Agoda.com or Booking.com .

Brunei blog: Best places to visit and top things to do in Brunei

Istana nurul iman – sultan’s palace.

Istana Nurul Iman - Palace of the Sultan of Brunei

In Arabic the Istana Nurul Iman means “Palace of the Light of the Saints”. This is the largest and richest palace in the world. The Royal Palace of Brunei is located on a high hill next to the lower of Brunei River. The palace’s door towards Bandar Seri Begawan capital. This is the main residence of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah and his royal family.

Istana Nurul Iman behind water village

With a total construction cost of about $ 1.4 billion, when visiting the Royal Palace, visitors will admire the unique Islamic architecture with extremely expensive luxury furniture. The palace is decorated by high-end furniture, luxuriously decorated with gold and silver materials, diamonds and gems, etc. Inside, there are a throne, tables and chairs for guests, paintings, bowls, glasses, all made from gold. Some lucky visitors have the opportunity to enter the palace of gold, will feel like to sink into the world of the King’s fairy and do not want to come out realistic.

istana-nurul-iman-bandar-seri-begawan-3

Royal Palace is a must visit place in Brunei. Normally, the palace is not open to the public, except for the annual Hari Raya Aidilfitri festival, where visitors visit the Sultan to be blessed and receive the presents.

Istana Nurul Iman - Palace of the Sultan of Brunei

Kampong Ayer Water Village

Kampong-Ayer-Water-Village-1

As a village with a history of more than 600 years, there are still big nose monkeys living in simple houses on the peaceful river. In the village there are schools, hospitals, administrative offices … To get here you have to go by wooden boat or also called water taxi. But the price is not cheap, about $20- $40 for a tour around the river. Another trip from shore to floating village cost about $1- $2.

Water-Taxi-in brunei2 Credit image: brunei travel blog.

Unlike the outside appearance of the village, looks like “slums”, the inside space of the village is very … good, every home is full of modern facilities. Each house in Kampong Ayer is linked by a Brunei-style road system made of special wood on the island of Borneo.

Kampong Ayer Water Village School Pickup Time

The rustic life but also very romantic with wide yards and common paths are planted a lot of flowers and bonsai. The floating villagers are very focused decoration for their home, this is where you can not miss when traveling to Brunei.

kampong ayer village

Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Brunei is dubbed the kingdom of the mosques. With an area of only 6,000 square kilometers and a population of nearly 400,000 people, but Brunei has over 100 mosques. The devotion of the people of Brunei is a great source of inspiration for creating spectacular, beautiful mosques. Among them, the Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque in Brunei is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia with the stunning and magical of five tons of gold plated all over the mosque.

Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque interior

All the columns, the stairs are made of marble, the carpets in the mosque are imported from Arabia, the tiles paved wall are imported from Europe and the sparkling chandeliers are made of gold and diamonds are very brilliant.

Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque interior

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque

Istana Nurul Iman - Sultan's Palace

Considered as Asia’s largest mosque at this time and also the first in Brunei, with a dome plated with 5 tons of pure gold. Interior and exterior are also used luxury materials imported from many countries in the world.

Istana Nurul Iman - Sultan's Palace

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Complete list of things to do in Brunei, best attractions and places to visit

Things to do in Brunei feature

This post was first written in Sep 2015 and last updated in June 2020. 

When considering a Southeast Asia trip you will be forgiven for not thinking of the possibility of traveling to Brunei. The tiniest country in the region (yet bigger than Nauru and Tuvalu ), it is also one of the least visited . But despite its small size, there are enough things to do in Brunei to keep you busy for at least two to three days, just like I did.

If you are wondering what to do in Brunei, you have come to the right place. Having planned the trip ahead and done quite a bit of research on all the Brunei attractions, I put together a packed itinerary for three days of travel to Brunei with all the best highlights.

I went out to the tropical rainforests jungle (the best preserved in Asia), up the canopy top, down rivers, on firefly boat trips and even to the Royal Palace to meet the Royal Family!

Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien over water

If you want to know how long you should make your Brunei travel itinerary, I would recommend budgeting for three days . If you only have a weekend, you can still cover most of the best things to do in Brunei by squeezing them in and organising your schedule ahead of time. Planning can do wonders here.

Introduction to Brunei

An ocean of trees in Brunei

Brunei, known in Malay as Brunei Darussalam or “The Abode of Peace” , is a small country entirely surrounded by Malaysia and the South China Sea and made of two separate areas. It is the only country fully located on the island of Borneo, unlike the Indonesian or Malaysian areas like Kalimantan or Sarawak and Sabah (where Mount Kinabalu is) respectively.

The majority of the population lives in the Eastern part of the country, where the international airport and the capital of Brunei, Bandar Seri Begawan, are located. The Western part of the country only accounts for 10% of the 400,000 Bruneians and is entirely made of lush and pristine jungle, the best preserved in Asia and not connected to the Eastern part but surrounded entirely by water or Malaysia.

The most famous park in this part of Brunei is the beautiful Ulu Temburong , home to several endemic species including the very shy Proboscis monkey , which you can also find in nearby Sabah State and Kota Kinabalu Park  in East Malaysia. A visit to the park is one of the main reasons to travel to Brunei and worthwhile even if you don’t do anything else.

While you may have never heard of Brunei before, the country is most famous for the eccentricities and excesses of the Sultan , once the richest man in the world, and one of the last remaining absolute Monarchs . Sultan Bolkiah, whose full name is Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah ibni Al-Marhum Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Sa’adul Khairi Waddien is estimated to have accumulated a fortune amounting to $20 billion thanks to vast natural reserves of oil and gas. He also regularly makes the headlines for his indulgences in custom-built high-performance cars and lavish homes.

Men and women are separated at Istana Nurul

The Royal Palace, Istana Nurul, is the world’s largest palace and family residence . Open to the public only during the three days after the end of Ramadan, the Palace is said to have almost 1,800 rooms and over 200 bathrooms . There is a garage for one hundred luxury cars, the Sultan’s favorite selection over the seven thousand car collection he is believed to have amassed.

Despite being known for his wealth and extravagances, the Sultan introduced Sharia Law , the most conservative form of Islamic Law, in 2014, to much international dismay. Rolled out in phases, once full Sharia Law is implemented, punishments as primitive as flogging, stoning to death and cutting of limbs will be imposed in Brunei.

In 2019, Brunei made headlines throughout the world when introducing a ban on homosexuality. This follows stringent and primitive rules that are actually carried out by 70 UN member states where the penalty varies from 10 years in prison to life. Although the Sultan has declared that they won’t take action on the law. 

As a visitor, you can roam freely and safely, for the Sultan’s generosity with his people and the country’s limited freedom of expression makes this a peaceful country. Here is my article on the best facts about Brunei if you want to learn more before you go.

I visited Brunei with a friend at the end of Ramadan and during the celebration of Hari Raya Aidilfitri and had the chance to enjoy some of the best things to do in Brunei. Check the list below and the map to locate where they all are.

Things to do in Brunei: Attractions and places to see

Gateway to Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Brunei appears to most as a place devoid of any interesting sights. However, this is a country where you should find beauty in the smallest things and where experiencing the place, rather than ticking things off a checklist, is what matters most.

There is no party or dancing in the country, for it is a strict follower of Islam and alcohol is forbidden . As a result, when the sun sets, there is little more to do in Brunei than go on boat tours to spot fireflies or sit at a cafe with a slice of cake.

Educate yourself at the Museum of Brunei

Update : The Museum of Brunei is closed for major reconstruction and is said only to open again at the end of 2020, but rumor has it that it is closed indefinitely. So make contact before visiting to see if they’re open. Read below to find out more about what you can find here.

The Museum of Brunei is a great source of information about the culture and history of the country , including the recent developments in the oil and gas industry. The Sultanate of Brunei was a strong Empire up until the 15th century when wars and disputes caused its decline.

For most of the time after that, the country remained under various forms of protection from the UK until achieving full independence in 1984. While a visit to a museum about a country’s history may not be everyone’s definition of the best places to see, I do believe it makes sense to start your visit to Brunei here so that you have a good understanding of this tiny country. Some of Brunei’s attractions you will explore later will make much more sense after you are able to link them to the country’s interesting and fascinating past.

More information about the Museum can be found here .

Get wowed at the Royal Regalia Museum

Royal Regalia Museum at night

Yes, this is another museum and it could be as interesting or mind-numbing as the Museum of Brunei, but it may give you ideas for that Aladdin-like gift that you are thinking of buying a friend who has it all. After all, I cannot think of a better place to dream of 1001 Nights than Brunei where the Sultan wears suits made of gold and precious stones .

Consider this more than just a museum and walk in to be amazed , I promise this is one of the most interesting places to see in Brunei.

Inside the Royal Regalia Museum

The Museum is home to the Sultan’s life including all the objects that are part of his reign. Replicas of his throne, the gifts that Royals and Heads of State have given the Sultan, crowns and gowns. Expect gold and jewels galore, like you have never seen before. The entire place is reminiscent of the Armory, in Moscow’s Kremlin, where the Tsar’s riches are displayed.

The museum is located in the downtown part of Bandar Seri Begawan near the famous mosque, you can’t miss it and its giant domed ceiling. Entrance to the museum is free and you will have to leave your belonging and cameras at the entrance.

Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum

Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum

If you’re into nautical themed museums, then this is the place you should dock yourself. After finding a shipwreck in 1997 an expedition was formed to search for all its artefacts. What they found in the late 15th and early 16C ship was over 13,000 different objects were found, mostly ceramic or glass items.

There is a short, yet interesting movie about the ship and the process of retrieving the artefacts. Downstairs is the replica of the ship and upstairs some more information on Brunei’s exports such as camphor, spices, textiles. Similar to the Royal Regalia Museum, entrance is free, but you are not allowed to take pictures inside. It is suggested that you read up a bit more on early Asian trade before visiting to really understand the importance of this find as the information is lacking a bit. 

One more thing you should note about a visit to this museum is that it is roughly a 1.5-2km walk from the nearest bus stop, so it’s best to get here by taxi, which can be organised through your hotel. It’s best to hire one for half a day if you’re visiting all the sites in Bandar Seri Begawan.

Marvel at the Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien

Mosque over water with boat

You cannot visit Brunei and not see its most famous tourist attraction : Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien. It is also an impossible-to-miss landmark in Brunei since it sits tall and surrounded by a lake right in the center of the capital city and it is the tallest building at 52m high.

The Mosque, built in honor of the Sultan’s late father , the 28th Sultan of Brunei, in 1958 is made of solid gold and fine marble from Italy and was inspired by India’s Mughal architecture like you’ll find in Lahore , Dhaka , or Chennai  and of course the Taj Mahal. The mosque was the first official and large mosque to be built in the capital city.

Prior to that, there used to be a much smaller wooden mosque in the same area but it was not able to hold more than 500 people, so massive prayers for marked dates were held out in the open.

Mosque at sunset

The crescent lake between the mosque and the water village, Kampong Ayer, gives it a heavenly aura. Watch out for monitor lizards cooling down in the water to avoid being surprised when taking a picture.

The large and colorful barge in front of the mosque is a replica of the 16th-century Royal Barge and was built almost a decade after the mosque’s completion. The barge used to stage Al-Quran reading competitions.

Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien exterior garden

Although the mosque is open to visitors and entrance is free , this is a functioning house of prayer in an active Muslim country so practice respect at all times. If you are not Muslim, you may not be allowed inside at times of prayer on special dates like Ramadan or Eid Al Fitr.

Women should expect to cover their heads, men may be turned away if wearing short sleeves, vests or shorts. There is an elevator going to the top of one of minarets for the best views of the city.

Visit Kampong Ayer and spot proboscis monkeys

Arrival jetty at Kampong Ayer

One of the most interesting things to do in Brunei is renting a boat from the harbor to motor through the world’s largest water village with 30,000 people and the mangrove area around it. You should do this both at night and during the day as the experiences are different.

Kampong Ayer, the water village, is a mere few minutes from the shore on the main area and can be accessed by simply renting the boat and skipper for a few dollars (I believe we rented it for a couple of hours for $10). Negotiate with the boatman before getting on the boat.

Proboscis viewing

These are not tourist boats, there are very few people who visit Brunei, but rather the same boats the locals use to get around. Some may not have a roof to protect from the sun so be sure to pick the right one or bring a hat, the sun in Brunei is brutal.

Firstly, head out to the mangrove area where you can spot proboscis monkeys . These monkeys, endemic of Borneo, are shy and will fly away if bothered or startled but, with the right pair of camera lenses or binoculars, you may be able to see their funny noses.

Proboscis Monkey

On your way back, ask the captain to drop you off at Kampong Ayer and wander along the suspended streets , this is one of the best things to see in Brunei. You will have to take another boat to get back but there are regular water taxi style boats from the main piers on the village.

People are friendly and you may be able to, respectfully, peek inside people’s homes and see how a village entirely above the water works.

Contrary to what you may see in more impoverished parts of Asia, Kampong Ayer is a developed and wealthy part of Brunei . Some of the newer houses are as good, if not better, than the ones on land and can go for as much as $100,000. It is fascinating to see how so many people live on stilts.

A stroll along the Kampong Ayer bridges and paths is one of the most fascinating things to do in Brunei.

Proboscis monkeys

What to do in Brunei at night? You will surely be wondering that on the first night you spend in the country as you will quickly realise everything is closed and this is the quietest capital in Asia. Well, I have a suggestion for you. Go chase fireflies . No, really.

While the visit to the kampong and the proboscis monkeys needs to be done during the day, you should also return to the mangroves at night. If you go there at night you will also be able to see the red eyes of crocodiles resting on the shore and the blinking light of fireflies.

Explore Ulu Temburong

Panoramic shot from the bridge

As opposed to the rest of Borneo, where logging and palm oil plantations are the source of much concern from environmental agencies and the public in general, Brunei’s jungle is virgin and one of the best places to visit in Brunei.

Logging is banned , providing a unique insight into an unspoiled eco-system of overgrown vegetation and thick forestry. Birds chirp away, monkeys jump from tree ropes and eye-catching plants attract visitors to long hikes. A trip to Ulu Temburong National Park is a must do when in the country.

You will have to book with a tour company because independent visitors to the park are not allowed but this is Brunei’s best tourist attraction. Only about 1% of the park is open to the public whereas the rest remains closed off and only accessible to researchers and park personnel.

Exploring Brunei by boat

Aside from the possibility to spend some time with nature, Ulu Temburong is primarily known for the canopy walk , a suspended structure hanging high atop the jungle which you can climb up to for the best 360 degree views of thick jungles.

You have to take a boat, a van and a long-tail boat to get there from the capital. If the tide is low you may have to get out of the long tail boat and push at times. Once you arrive at Ulu Ulu the real trekking begins.

Looking at the view from the bridge

You will have to walk up 1,000 steps in hot and humid weather but the reward at the top of the hill is all worth it. Built in steel and standing high at 60 meters, the canopy walk provides an incredible view over the jungle top, if you can bear the altitude and the scary rattling of the structure as you climb up.

View from the top of Brunei

This is what Borneo would be everywhere else if the palm oil industry had not arrived so head out to Brunei for a glimpse of untouched, wild nature. It is similar to some places in Cambodia’s Wild East where logging and plantations have still not yet reached. 

Wreck and macro diving

Most people do not seem to pay any attention to this but Brunei is located in Borneo, where some of the best diving spots in Southeast Asia are, and other pristine islands like Manukan . So, is diving one of the best things to do in Brunei? The answer seems to be a rotund yes. Yet most people visiting Brunei seem to forget its underwater attractions. Wondering what to do in Brunei to get in the water? Diving seems like a pretty good excuse.

Now let’s be realistic, don’t go expecting diving like in neighbouring Sipadan , this is not a place to see schools of barracuda or large fish. You should also not expect fabulous beaches, the beaches in Brunei leave a lot to be desired and the sea conditions can be rough, but if you are into macro diving or want to head out for some WWII wreck sites the you should add this to your Brunei list of attractions. This is perhaps Southeast Asia’s best kept diving destination secret.

Check out Oceanic Quest for more information about diving in Brunei.

Try the very unique local ambuyat dish

brunei female travel

This is one of the most bizarre and unique food items I have ever eaten and it is Brunei’s most famous dish. Made of a glutinous sago pudding that is eaten when the thick and elastic porridge is rolled around the fork. The point is to then dip the rather bland concoction into spicy meat with chilli sauce.

It is a bit strange at first because of its chewing gum, gooey texture that is probably not everyone’s cup of tea, but quite tasty and unique. You should definitively try it. Maybe make it a dinner outing to turn it into a great evening activity in Brunei. Ambuyat usually is served with sides of cucumber and vegetables already so don’t over order.

brunei female travel

For an extra dose of genuine, head out to the famous  Aminah Arif   restaurants which is know to serve this. It can get quite busy in the evenings so go early.

Families come here in groups for their weekend outing, so after being presented with the menu, we simply looked around and found the dishes that looked most appetising and added them when ordering. Bruneian food is mostly similar to Malay so the rest of the dishes were familiar to someone like myself who has lived in Singapore for a long time.

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Built in 1992  Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque  is the best expression of utter exuberance and Royal extravagance  in Brunei. It is, of course, filled with more gold, and because the Sultan is the 29th reigning Monarch in his dynasty, there are 29 golden domes, because one is not enough. At night, when it is lit, it is impossible to miss. It stands bright and tall in the surroundings.

Gold domed minarets at Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

The mosque is the largest in the country and can accommodate 5,000 worshippers . It is not located in the city center like the other large mosque, so getting there is a bit trickier and you would be better off joining a tour. The building is impressive and well worth a stop so you could try to sneak a stop on either your way from or to the airport.

Getting inside is not always possible to visitors and non-Muslims may not be able to get in during prayer times. But seeing it from the outside is great too.

Jerudong Park

Once Southeast Asia’s most expensive amusement parks , this is as kitsch as parks can get . Costing $1 Bn to build, the park was entirely funded by the Royal Family. When it opened, it became known for the various concerts performed by singers of international acclaim such as Michael Jackson or Whitney Houston. Although it originally opened without an entrance fee, it later started charging when the visitor numbers declined.

Today, several of the attractions have been closed and sold off and it is now a decrepit place that is busy on weekends with families having a picnic. The entrance is free and you pay to use the rides. Not sure they are completely safe. Could be an interesting place to see. The park only opens in the afternoon/evening as it would be too hot during the day.

Visit The Nurul Istana Royal Palace of Brunei

The beautiful feast

This is the world’s most impressive royal building and considered the largest palace in the world with over 1,800 rooms. If you are in the country at the right time of the year, you should not miss the chance of visiting as this is one of the best things to do in Brunei Darussalam.

brunei female travel

But there is a catch. Nurul Istana is not open to the public except for the three days of Eid al Fitr at the end of the month of Ramadan so, if you can time your visit to Brunei in these days you will be amazed by the building and the incredible experience that it is to meet the Sultan or his wife. I did, as I made sure to visit Brunei during Eid and it was quite a remarkable experience.

What to expect when visiting Nurul Istana or Brunei’s Royal Palace during Eid

Handing out plate before the feast

Nurul Istana is a huge complex and as such, it can accommodate huge amounts of people. During Eid, the Sultan and his wife will meet and greet every single person who queues up to do so .

That includes foreigners. And so my friend and I queued up in the hopes of making it on time. Queues can be really hard, and we had to wait for almost three hours to shake hands, but it was worth it as the experience was quite fascinating.

Celebrating Aidilfitri in Brunei

Firstly, you need to head to the Royal Palace, we took a taxi. Then, you will first enter a huge banquet hall where celebratory food is served. You can eat as much as you like, all the food is free and offered by the royal family to the visitors.

There are all sorts of foods on offer including all sorts of sweets and fruits. Eat your heart’s content and then head to the next rooms (follow the crowds or ask) to start the queue.

brunei female travel

The queuing system is organised and peaceful. You will be moving through various halls and rooms, all incredibly decorated in gold and yellow, and some of them will host performances, music and dancers to entertain the visitors while they wait. You will not wait around in a line but rather in rows of seats.

Every few minutes, an entire row will be called to move to the next room. It is hard to tell how much longer you have to wait as, until you reach the outdoor patios and courtyards, you can’t really see the end of the line.

Gorgeous vase

Eventually, you will leave the indoor areas and head outside to an interior courtyard with pillars and fountains and you will be able to tell the end of the line is near. When it is your turn, you will have to leave your cameras and belonging in an area and take your shoes off.

Women will meet the Sultan’s wife while men will meet the Sultan himself . As we were the only clearly foreign people in the line, when it was our turn, the Sultan’s wife even asked us where we were from.

At the exit, make sure to collect your gift : a signed greeting card from the Sultan for Eid and a heavy fruit cake inside a yellow metal box with the Sultan’s face on it. Great souvenir to take home!

Tamu Pasar Besar Gadong night market

I absolutely love night markets and the one in Brunei is just fabulous . This is an explosion of food and smells that fills the air. If you are visiting Brunei you just cannot miss this market. As there are not a lot of things to do in Brunei at night, this is just another great way to fill your evening, albeit don’t expect it to go until midnight.

Head there when the sun sets and wander the alleys picking food here and there to try them out. People are friendly and because you can see how the food is made this also doubles up as a great attraction in Brunei, even if you end up going elsewhere to eat. Food markets are the perfect way to get under the skin of a country and understand more about its food culture.

Best hotels in Brunei

There are not a lot of options for hotels in Brunei and given the lack of public transportation and availability of taxis, I would highly recommend staying somewhere in the central area so that you can walk to the main attractions and points of interest in Brunei. For lack of a better option, I walked to the night market and it was well over an hour’s walk.

The entire Brunei only has one four star hotel and one five star hotel and they are both very different options. Choosing where to stay in Brunei is therefore a pretty straightforward decision.

The Radisson Hotel Brunei

Radisson Hotel Brunei Darussalam

This is the hotel I recommend the most and where I stayed. It is a reasonably prices four star hotel right in the central part of the city. It is not fancy in any way but it is the best located hotel in Brunei. They also have a tour desk that can help organise the trip to Ulu Temburong and even taxis, although they are largely non-existent in the country.

Book your trip now on Booking.com | Agoda

The Empire Hotel

The Empire Hotel Brunei

This is much the opposite of the Radisson Hotel . It is very far from the city center and located by the sea, near a golf course. This is probably the only weekend getaway for the locals and for the many oil workers and expats living in Brunei. The hotel is old world charm, with red velvet, draped curtains and indoor swimming pools. If you did not know you were in Brunei you could think you are in the English countryside.

The Empire Hotel is located in expansive grounds with plenty of green. There is even a beach to sunbathe, the only one in Brunei. You will however be located far from the city so you will need to hire drivers for the day to go explore. If you want a beach getaway with a twist in probably the least likely countries in Asia this is probably it.

Book your trip now on  Agoda

Other things to consider when planning your trip to Brunei

Brunei is a pretty unique country and so some of the things you would expect from its neighbours or other countries in Asia do not apply. It is best to pay attention to some of the travel tips to Brunei below.

There is no real public transportation

As I mentioned a few times, public transportation in Brunei is almost inexistent and there are very few taxis. As a result, I found myself having to walk incredible distances at night because there was no other way to get back. It would be wise to get the hotel to organise a cab for you who can also come back to pick you up if you are going off from the city center, like when visiting the night market. We found the locals actually stopped by to offer us a ride, but being cautious as two women traveling alone, we decided to decline. It was quite a common act of kindness.

There is no alcohol

Brunei is a dry country. That means that alcohol is forbidden and not available anywhere . You will not find onboard the planes from Royal Air Brunei and you will not see it anywhere. There is also no party and very few businesses stay open past 10pm. So there isn’t much to do at night save for the firefly mangrove tours I mentioned. This is also one of the reasons why most people will tell you that traveling to Brunei is boring or not worth it. I still found it a fascinating country, interesting and unique if indeed not an “exciting” destination per se. If you want to bring your own alcohol for your own consumption (not for selling) you can do so with a maximum of 2l per person which needs to be declared at customs.

You should dress conservatively

Sharia Law was imposed a few years ago in Brunei and as a result, most women cover their heads and locals will wear long sleeves and long trousers , despite the weather would call for shorts. You are best respecting the local customs and wearing long trousers too but, as a woman, you are not expected to cover up. Bring a scarf in case you can visit the mosques.

You can use Singapore Dollars

Although Brunei has its own currency, both Singapore dollars and Brunei dollars are accepted and your Brunei dollars will also be useful in Singapore so if you are visiting the tiny Red Dot city after or before Brunei keep your dollars and use them there, for example, enjoying one of these  100 things to do in Singapore  or staying at one of its many Luxury hotels .

How to get to Brunei

The main airport is the one in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan and is the most relevant way to get to Brunei. There are international flights into Brunei from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, the two closest cities and, via Royal Brunei Airlines, there are flights to a number of other international destinations.

Royal Brunei Airlines tends to have affordable tickets and it is a full fledged one and a decent one though.

However, another common way to arrive is by crossing the border by road from Miri where the British Army training camps are and the majority of the oil expats live.

They escape the even more remote and boring city of Miri and come to the country for the weekend looking for some more exciting things to do in Brunei.

Brunei would be a great destination to add to your off-the-beaten-track Pinterest boards

Things to do in Brunei Pin 01

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GlobeTrove

Travel in Brunei: Everything You Should Know Before You Visit

Categories Destinations , Asia , Brunei

Travel in Brunei: Everything You Should Know Before  You Visit

I have to be honest. Travel in Brunei has never been at the top of my list for a variety of reasons. Life had other plans and I landed up spending three months in the country, making Borneo the island that I had spent the longest on.

One thing that I did realize after those three months is that I had been wrong about the country on so many counts and right in a few others. Do I miss Brunei? I do.

I miss the forests and the peace that the country has and most of all I miss Shawn because he had to stay back for a couple of months while I returned to India. With three months of exploring and travel in Brunei, I feel competent enough to write a detailed guide to the country so let’s plunge in shall we?

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The Global Consensus And Actual Travel In Brunei

Before I headed out to Brunei, I did a lot of research on the place. I looked at the news articles and the travel blogs. I must say that while the Brunei travel blogs talked about a smattering of things to do in Brunei, the media talked about how restrictive the country was.

Staying for three months in such a country did not seem pleasant to me but at that point I did not have much of a choice. Three days in however and my whole perspective took a drastic change. Why?

The thing about Brunei is that it has been in the news for all the wrong reasons and since traveling through the country is not popular because of its location, it is hardly ever explored properly. It doesn’t take you long to realize that the people in Brunei are some of the friendliest people you will meet.

I had someone hand me a box full of jackfruit on day one for free just because I said I loved it. It was something that happened (with other things) over and over again throughout my stay and it emphasizes just how generous people are.

What about the Sharia Law?

Now while I did fall in love with the country, I have to say that I did not agree with a lot of things. The Sharia law was one of those things. Unfortunately for us, we were in the country when the second wave of the Sharia law implementation took place.

My particular beef was with the laws involving the LGBTQ community. Luckily, the Sultan was forced to backtrack from some of the harsher punishments that were due to be implemented.

To Write Or Not To Write About Travel In Brunei

With all this in mind, I found myself at a crossroads. Do I write about travel in Brunei or not? I finally decided that I would write about it largely to talk about my feelings and the things that I did like about the country.

After all, Brunei is not very well documented, and I found myself exploring lesser visited destinations. Talking to the expats and the locals in the smaller town that I lived in reminded me that I wrote for the people who needed it. Factual tips about travel and living in a country that I spent a long while in.

Navigating Through The Brunei Travel Guide

In order to help you navigate through Globetrove’s Brunei Travel Guide, I have divided it into sections so that you can scroll directly down to the part of the post you want to access.

Expect the post to be long because I have a lot to share and talk about. I hope that the Brunei Travel Guide will help you if you do consider travel to the country or find yourself inside its borders for some reason.

  • Facts about Brunei
  • Facts for the visitor
  • Things to do in Brunei

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Facts About Brunei

Travel in Brunei is not complete without visiting the board walk.

Travel in Brunei is not complete without visiting the board walk.

Let’s talk about the country before we get into the specifics about travel in Brunei. I always find that knowing about the location you head to in advance gives you a more immersive feel when you actually touch down. That is why I like to read up a bit on the weather, geography, history and culture before I start exploring.

Brunei has an interesting past. Today, the country is ruled by a Sultan but it wasn’t always so. In 1888, Brunei became a British protectorate. Till date you will find a British Garrison in Brunei. Things however began to change around 1929 when petroleum production began.

It was this production that turned the tides for Brunei and till today it is what sustains the economy of the country. For a brief period during 1941-1945 in the World War II, Brunei found itself being occupied by he Japanese. The British however later returned and eventually, negotiations were made for the independence of Brunei.

Once Brunei stabilized politically in the 1970’s, it quickly rose to become one of the most flourishing economies in the world thanks to the amount of petroleum that was and continues to be produced in the country. It does not come as a surprise therefore that there are a lot of expats (who are linked to the oil industry) that live in the oil towns of Brunei.

One of the first things that I realized during my travel in Brunei was that the entire landscape appears green. Okay, you may not see as much of this in Bandar Seri Begawan which is the capital of Brunei but the moment you start heading out of the city, the landscape changes rather dramatically.

The forest cover of the country is spectacular and many of the locals love walking through the numerous forest reserves and natural parks . Ulu Temburong however remains the most popular natural park that tourists visit.

Brunei has a tropical climate which means that you can expect it to be hot and humid. It rains during a large part of the year and when I say rains, I mean that it pours! So you need to plan what to pack accordingly. I recently wrote a whole guide to what to pack when visiting Brunei. You can find the link to the post below.

RELATED ARTICLES: The Ultimate Packing List For Brunei

The currency in Brunei is called the Bruneian Dollar and is often abbreviated as BND. Since it is benchmarked against the Singaporean dollar, both currency are valid tender in the country. I found this rather surprising at first but then I realized that it was part and parcel of life in Brunei.

One of the things that surprised me about travel in Brunei was the food. The food is surprisingly multicultural with large influences from the Malaysian, Singaporean,, Indonesian and Indian cuisines. That however isn’t all. It also has a thriving fast food industry.

Burgers are big deal in the country and you see them at all the local stalls. Italian food is also highly loved. I won’t do into the details of it since I have already written an in depth article about the food in Brunei.

RELATED ARTICLES:

  • A Detailed Guide To Food In Brunei
  • Guide to places to eat in Kuala Belait

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Facts For The Visitor

Transport in Brunei

If you are considering travel in Brunei, then you may want to arm yourself with a couple of facts like how to get into the country, what is the transportation like, where should you stay etc. In order to make your quest for this information a bit easier, we have compiled as much pertinent information as we could in this segment of the Brunei Travel Guide.

Entering The Country

There are two main ways to enter Brunei and those are by the land borders and by air. I have however heard that the government is encouraging cruise ships to dock in Brunei to promote tourism in the country.

Flying into Brunei is a popular choice if you are heading just to the country itself. Many however choose to take one of the cheaper flights to either Kota Kinabalu (Sabah, Malaysia) or Miri (Sarawak, Malaysia) and then backpack their way through. There are a couple of cheapish flights that ply between these cities and the route through remains a popular one.

One of my pet peeves in Brunei was the transport. There is not much public transport to talk off. A couple of stray buses that head out of the main city but that is it. Everyone owns a car and, in some cases, multiple cars. There are cabs but they are extremely expensive when you compare the rates to the rest of Asia. Yes! Brunei is expensive so keep that in mind too!

Accommodation

Accommodation is definitely something that you will need to consider when you think about travel in Brunei. While we personally stayed closer to Kuala Belait which is a small town in Brunei, I wouldn’t recommend heading that far out if you are just passing through.

Most of the spots that you would see as a tourist are in or close to the capital city named Bandar Seri Begawan. Finding accommodation there would be the wisest. If you are looking for an experience, then think of staying in Kampung Ayer also known as Brunei’s water village.

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One of the things that you should keep in mind when it comes to travel in Brunei is the dress code. While there are a couple of foreigners that wear knee level shorts, I would suggest staying modest. Loose cotton clothes is the way to go especially since the weather is hot and humid.

Avoid thicker fabrics. I preferred white and light colours for this very same reason. Carry a scarf or a shawl that you can use to cover your head when you enter a mosque or religious building. As a rule, most people are not bothered about what you wear but I would still err on the side of caution.

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Things To Do In Brunei

Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddein Dan Bahtera Mahligai

Travel in Brunei should definitely include visiting the different religious structures in the country.

When I talk about travel in Brunei, a lot of people stop me and ask me where Brunei is. Unlike its popular neighbours Malaysia and Indonesia, Brunei covers just a small piece of land on the mighty island of Borneo. A large part of this land is covered with forests and hence it does not come as a surprise that there are few tourist related activities to indulge in.

Main Cities In Brunei

Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital city of Brunei and is the place with most of the activities that as a tourist you would seek out. In fact, as far happening places in Brunei go, this is as bustling as it gets. The other cities are smaller and definitely less touristic.

Kuala Belait and Seria are two sleepy towns that lie closer to the Malaysian border. These two are oil towns and are largely populated by expats. Jerudong, Tutong and Gadong are other popular cities.

Religious Monuments

One of the main items that everyone talks about when they head to Brunei is the gorgeous mosques in the country. While I have had a chance to just visit one of them, I have seen many of them as we passed by. They are without a doubt gorgeous and well worth exploring if you have the time.

National Parks

Remember when I mentioned that Brunei is covered by forests? You can see this as you swoop in with your flight. Brunei has a number of forests that are protected and luckily deforestation is not a threat here as compared to neighbouring Malaysia.

They do however have some problems with forest fires during the hotter months and it can get bad with the highways being closed. Most of these forests however have parks that are incorporated into them so you can trek and enjoy nature. They are so profuse that you will definitely find a green spot no matter which part of Brunei you stay in.

RELATED ARTICLES:  Forest Reserves and Recreational Parks in Brunei

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Experiences You Should Not Miss

As with every country, you will find that while you travel in Brunei, there are a couple of experiences that you really should not miss. While most of the notable sites can be covered in a two to three days (if you choose to visit Ulu Temburong), most of the sites are within the city of Bandar Seri Begawan and you don’t have to travel far. 

Travel in Brunei

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Solo Traveler

Solo travel tips, destinations, stories... the source for those who travel alone.

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Solo Travel Destination: Brunei

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November 17, 2017 by Tracey Nesbitt

I am pleased to present a new  Solo Travel  Destination Post from Nancy, a member of the  Solo Travel Society  on Facebook. Nancy is from the UK, and submitted the following report about her trip to Brunei.  Do you have a solo  travel  destination that you would like to recommend?  Submit your description here , along with a few photos, and share it with fellow travelers!

Solo travel  rating: 2  (1 is easiest, 3 is most difficult. Please see chart below)

Languages spoken: Malay, English, Chinese

Costs at Destination: Expensive  (local transportation, dining, tours, events, and attractions)

photo, image, water village, brunei

Touring the water village

Reasons to Visit Brunei

Initially I was a little worried about visiting Brunei and how I would be perceived as a solo female western traveler. Should I cover my hair, for example? I needn't have been concerned. Everyone I met during my time in Brunei was unfailingly friendly and helpful from the hotel driver who, upon my arrival, thanked me for visiting his country to the woman I met in the post office queue, who insisted on showing me around town. While it is advisable to dress conservatively, there is no need to cover your hair unless you choose to visit the inside of the mosque.

There isn't much of a hostel scene in Brunei (I believe there is one but genders are segregated) so I stayed in a budget hotel. The decor at the Jubilee was fairly dated but it was clean and offered free breakfast (3 choices from a set menu) and free airport transfers (the driver being more than willing to show you the sights along the way).

I spent a couple of days exploring the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) although you could cover the main sights in a full day easily enough. The Sultan Omar Ali Saffuddien Mosque is the main landmark. It is an impressive building and it is possible to view the interior at certain times. I also enjoyed a visit to the Royal Regalia Museum, where you are required to leave your shoes on a rack in the street outside the entrance. The museum houses photographs of the Sultan, who is held in very high esteem by locals. Numerous priceless gifts that he has received as head of state, on his coronation, and during state visits, as well as the enormous chariot used during his silver jubilee celebrations, are all on display. Plus, it's the only museum I've ever wandered around in my socks! Another very popular and worthwhile activity is to take a water taxi tour of the water village that comprises the other half of the city. Bartering is necessary, and you should expect to pay 15-20 Brunei dollars for a stand-alone tour or more if you choose to combine this with a trip up the river to the mangroves where you can spot the extraordinary looking proboscis monkeys. If you opt for the latter, around sunset is the best time to take the tour.

Eating is the main social activity in Brunei and a good selection of restaurants can be found in the city or you can take a taxi to visit the night markets to try more local fare.

As most locals have at least one car–I was told the number of cars exceeds the number of people!–there is little public transportation available to travel outside the city. However, there are several agencies that arrange day tours. I visited Seria, the oil town, and the Ulu Temburong rainforest with Borneo Guide. The journey to the forest was first by boat through the mangroves and waterways, then a short bus ride, and finally a traditional long boat ride. The journey really is half of the adventure. The main attraction here is a canopy walkway with excellent views across the forest. The walkway itself is of sturdy construction but be aware that it's a fairly steep climb with a lot of steps to reach the first tower. On a day tour, by the time you arrive it's fairly unlikely that you'll see much animal life. As a solo traveler it is usually possible to join a group tour, which costs approximately US$115 for the day in the national park, including food. As tourism is still in its infancy in Brunei, I found that they didn't always have tours running, which meant that you would have to pay the private tour price, which is roughly double the price of a group tour. Fridays and weekends seem to be the times when it's most likely there will be a tour to join. I was placed with an Australian couple to make a group of three.

Overall, I would recommend Brunei as an interesting and less-visited destination for a weekend getaway or a short trip.

photo, image, rainforest, brunei

View from the canopy walkway over Ulu Temburong rainforest

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Sultan Omar Ali Saffuddien Mosque, BSB

Solo Travel  Destination Rating System

Safety   – 1  (1 very safe, 2 safe in most areas, 3 be cautious at all times.)

Language   – 2  (1 English is first language, 2 English speakers easy to find, 3 English speakers rare)

Navigation – 2  (1 easy to navigate by transit or car, 2 poor transit, car necessary, 3 not easy to get around)

Culture – 2  (1 Similar to North America or Western Europe, 2 Different from above but relaxed and easy, 3 Challenging)

Average Rating – 2  (1 is easiest, 3 is most difficult)

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Never Ending Footsteps

Is Brunei Worth Visiting? My Experience in the Sultanate

brunei female travel

I went to Brunei because everybody said it was boring.

I’m aware that’s a weird reason to go somewhere, but I’m a contrarian at heart. If somebody insists a place isn’t worth visiting, I immediately add it to the top of my list and set off in search of its redeeming features.

When I first considered checking out Brunei, I struggled to find many positive write-ups about the sultanate. Everyone declared the country dull. Articles explained it was only worth visiting for a day and that you should only go if you’re into counting countries.

I subsequently gave myself four days to explore — more than most visitors ever consider allocating. I was determined to dig deep, however, and discover worthwhile activities in the country. I like to believe that every place is worth visiting, and I wanted to find what it was that made Brunei special.

Gadong night market in Brunei

My first impressions were excellent.

We had chosen to stay at Taman Mawar Guesthouse because it was the highest-rated guesthouse in the city. (Update 2023: Unfortunately, Taman Mawar has since closed down; I now recommend staying at Capital Residence Suites , which is well-rated and in a decent location).

Previous guests at Taman Mawar had raved about the owner, Maya, writing about how she’d shown them the country — driving them to the sights, taking them out to dinner, and doing everything she could to make their trip wonderful. It turned out she was just as lovely as I’d hoped.

She met us from the airport in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, and asked what we loved to do most when we travel.

“Eat!” Dave and I chorused.

“Excellent,” she said with a smile. “I have the perfect place for you.”

Gadong Night Market was the exact opposite to what I pictured when I imagined eating in Brunei, and I loved that Maya had spontaneously chosen to take us there.

Before arriving, my uninformed brain assumed that dining in Brunei meant perching atop solid gold thrones, sampling diamond-infused noodles while a dark plume of petrol gently wafted past my emerald-encrusted table.

A bustling night market, Gadong was filled with both locals and smoke, as vendors barbecued meat and vegetables on skewers, and customers snacked on the offerings. Stalls offered a variety of fruit juices, from orange to rambutan; mango to durian. It was possible to eat here for as little as 1 BND ($0.75) . For a country that has a reputation for being over-the-top ostentatious and expensive for visitors, it was fascinating to see a side of it that was the exact opposite.

Chicken anus at Gadong night market

“Do you want to try something very local?” Maya asked us.

“Always,” I said.

“Well,” she began to laugh. “It’s something that even I don’t eat. I don’t know if you’ll like it. My guests often do not like it.”

“What is it?”

She laughed again, then whispered, “Chicken butt.”

I joined in with her giggles. “Yes,” I told her. “I totally want to try that.”

After all, chicken is chicken is chicken, right? And I always support the decision to use every part of an animal in recipes.

So, how was chicken anus?

It was, um, tubular . It was chicken nugget sized, but there was also this tough, chewy tube in the centre. It wasn’t bad! I 100% know that I am not in any way selling this to anyone, but if you get the chance to sample it at any point, it’s worth having a quick nibble.

Bus in Brunei

After a wonderful start to our time in Brunei, Dave and I set off the following morning surrounded by bright blue skies. I was thrilled.

A significant number of the photos I had seen of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque — the most famous building in the country — depicted it sheltering beneath grey clouds, so I suspected that like many equatorial countries, having a perfect sky was a rarity. Being able to take photos of it on a sunshine-filled day felt like a privilege, and I was practically jogging to get there.

I’ve never been able to warm to any religion, but I have a soft spot for mosques.

And this particular mosque was glam.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque with entrance arch

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built in the 1950s and was named after the 28th sultan of Brunei.

Interestingly, the materials used to build the mosque were sourced from countries around the world: the granite from China, the marble from Italy, the carpets from Saudi Arabia, the timber from the Philippines, and the chandeliers from the U.K. Topping it all off are the sparkling domes that are blanketed in gold leaf.

The mosque is the tallest building in the country, at a not-so-towering height of 53 metres, which gives some indication as to how built-up this capital city is. Answer: not at all.

At one point, the Bank of Brunei built their headquarters higher than the mosque — it didn’t last long, though, as the sultan ordered the top floor of the building to be removed.

Mosque in Brunei

As an appreciator of all things mosque-y, I consider the Omar Ali Saifuddien to be right up there among the most beautiful. In my opinion it doesn’t quite  top the Sheik Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi, but it was so special nonetheless.

One of the biggest surprises from my time in Brunei was just how few tourists there were. We had this gorgeous mosque all to ourselves for half an hour — if you were to place a building this beautiful in many other countries around the world, you’d be jostling for space with a camera-wielding crowd.

I snapped my dream photos with the blue, almost-cloudless sky and was already convinced that Brunei was worth visiting.

An interesting fact is that everything in Brunei shuts down every Friday between 12 and 2 p.m. to allow residents to pray. But not only that: every building in the country has to be within listening distance of a mosque and public displays of Christmas have been banned within the country. The sale of alcohol is also banned within the country, but non-Muslim visitors can import a reasonable amount if they wish.

Mural in Bandar Seri Begawan

As we searched the streets for somewhere to have lunch, I was struck by how safe the city felt, and how quiet it was for a capital.

Thanks to its vast reserves of oil and gas, Brunei is one of the richest countries in the world, with one of the highest GDPs. You probably already know the sultan is the richest monarch in the world, and he flaunts this wealth shamelessly.

Fun fact: My mum used to work for a bank in her twenties, and one of her tasks was to look after the Sultan of Brunei’s bank account in the U.K. He once invited her to lunch while he was visiting London, but she was too nervous to attend and pretended to be unwell!

In some respects, the sultan does a hell of a lot of good for Brunei. The country doesn’t have personal income tax, sales tax, or VAT, and citizens receive free education, healthcare and pensions, along with access to social housing and cheap loans. I didn’t see a single homeless person in Bandar Seri Begawan and crime rates are very low. Everyone I ran into spoke impeccable English.

Dig a little deeper, though, and you’ll discover life in the sultanate isn’t quite the definition of perfect.

In 2014, the sultan announced he was going to be introducing Sharia law, which is never a good thing, in my opinion. A decade later, however, it has yet to be fully implemented. Regardless of that, Brunei is a strict Islamic country with several inhumane laws. Most notably, LGBTQ+ rights are non-existent, with same-sex relationships punishable by up to 10 years in prison. If Sharia law was actually enacted, it could be punishable by death by stoning. While Sharia law will technically only apply to Muslims in Brunei, that’s still a whopping 65% of the population. If you’re not straight and cisgender, life in the country is tough.

Freedom of speech doesn’t really exist in Brunei, either. They have an unelected ruler that can never be removed, and lèse-majesté laws means that saying anything negative about the sultan is a crime. You could be jailed indefinitely for doing so. It leaves me wondering: could I even safely return to Brunei after writing the previous few passages? 

Ten per-cent of residents in Brunei are Chinese, and it’s almost impossible for them to gain citizenship, which makes them ineligible for many of the benefits that come from living there. Over 90% of them are stateless.

It’s a travel writing cliche, but Brunei is a complicated country of contrasts.

Inside the Royal Regalia Museum in Bandar Seri Begawan

Our next stop of the day was the Royal Regalia Museum, which was free to enter. This bizarre place is home to a vast number of extravagant gifts that the sultan has received from heads of state from around the world. You couldn’t take photos inside the the museum, unfortunately, so we took a couple of snaps of the golden chariot in the entrance, then wandered in.

The museum covers the life of the sultan, from birth to his coronation to the present day, then branches off into the collection of gifts he’s received over the years. It was interesting to see which countries had gifted him the most lavish presents, and which had presented him with things that looked, um, a little bit lame in comparison.

We spent two hours inside the museum and left feeling as though we had a better understanding of the sultan, so I’d recommend heading there if you find yourself in Brunei.

Not wanting to run out of things to see on our very first day (which is perhaps your first indication of how much the city has to offer), we decided to head back to our guesthouse.

In a country where oil and gas money subsidise the cost of petrol, Brunei is a country where almost everybody drives — it’s common for households to have as many as four cars. As we didn’t have our own transport, we opted to do as the few carless locals do and take the bus back to our guesthouse. It was inexpensive at 1 BND ($0.75) for a 15-minute ride.

Bandar Seri Begawan palace

The following morning, I had one activity in mind: to head out on the water.

Bandar Seri Begawan is home to a population of proboscis monkeys, which are only found on the island of Borneo. I’ve always wanted to hang out with these unusual-looking animals, so when I found out you could hire a boat to take you to see them, I was up early and walking into town.

I mentioned above that practically everybody in Brunei drives, and that driving is seen as the only way to get around. We rarely saw anybody walking into the city, and I soon learned why when Dave and I attempted the hour-long trek into the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan.

Within two minutes of setting out, a car pulled over and a smiling middle-aged woman waved us over.

“Get in! Get in!”

We piled inside, thanking her profusely.

“Welcome to Brunei!” she said. “Where are you going? Where can I take you?”

Dave and I communicated with each other using our eyes to try and work out if we were in a taxi. I’d read that Brunei has less than 50 across the country and that it’s super-rare to see any driving around. After all, there isn’t much point in operating as a taxi when most of the locals drive themselves.

When she dropped us off at the waterfront, we offered her money for petrol and she laughed, eventually accepting a few Bruneian dollars for the ride. That experience coupled with the wonderful hospitality we’d been shown by Maya had me bowled over by the kindness of the locals.

Of course, given that I’m bisexual, it also had me wondering if people would have been quite so welcoming if I hadn’t been travelling in the country with my boyfriend.

Mangroves in Bandar Seri Begawan

We approached a local guy on the jetty and asked how much it would cost to spend a couple of hours on the water. We wanted to catch a sighting of the proboscis monkeys, but also take a look at Kampong Ayer: a series of floating villages where three per-cent of Bruneians live their lives. After negotiating the price down to 30 BND ($22) , we clambered into his boat and put on our life jackets.

Minutes later, we were racing towards the mangroves; the wind causing my eyes to water. I wasn’t holding out much hope for a monkey-sighting, as I knew we were roughly two hours past prime observation time, but smiled anyway. I love jungles, and spending time in them was precisely why we had chosen to travel to Borneo.

After half an hour of high-speed boating, during which we paused for a few moments to take in the view of the largest residential palace in the world (#Brunei), we spotted a small clearing through the mangroves, and manoeuvred our way between the roots.

Proboscis monkey climbing a tree

Within minutes: movement!

I couldn’t believe it.

Ahead of us, a silhouette of a proboscis monkey made its way up a distant tree trunk and caused my jaw to drop.

These days, I prefer to spend my time in the moment rather than witnessing magic from behind a camera screen. It’s a fairly poor decision to have made as a travel blogger, I’ll admit, to often have only a couple of photos to choose between rather than hundreds, but it’s one I’ve made peace with. I spent ten minutes watching the proboscis monkeys scrambling through the trees before reaching for my camera.

Proboscis monkey in Brunei

“You need a zoom lens,” our driver said, as though he could read my mind.

“Yup,” I said, frowning as I squinted at my photos.

I wasn’t too concerned, though. We were planning to travel into Malaysian Borneo after our time in Brunei and I’d read that animal encounters were far more frequent and exciting in Sabah.

Man wearing a life jacket

I asked our driver if he’d mind showing us around Kampong Ayer.

He’d grown up on this group of floating villages, so was able to tell us about his life on the water, pointing out the school-on-stilts that he used to attend, as well as the local police and fire stations — all of them on stilts above the river. While most people think of Kampong Ayer as a single village, it actually encompasses 42 villages on the water, stretching out for 23 miles.

This part of Brunei is over 1,000 years old and is home to a dwindling population of around 13,000. Within the villages, you’ll find 13 schools, an art gallery, a mosque, post offices, petrol stations, and even a prison. If you look on Booking , you’ll find half a dozen private rooms you can rent out in order to gain a taste of this traditional Bruneian life.

If you’re anything like me, you probably hold the misconception that these homes are primitive in nature, but residents on the water have access to electricity, air conditioning, running water, TVs, and the internet. Some of Bandar Seri Begawan’s wealthy residents choose to live on the water, and you’ll see their luxury cars parked up on the banks beside the river. And yet, Kampong Ayer is also home to a population of undocumented immigrants and poverty is rife. Just like any other city.

You can walk along the boardwalks that connect the villages to gain a closer look at the locals’ existence, but I was content to observe from afar. I’m always hyper-conscious of intruding into the lives of locals — I know I’d hate having groups of tourists peering into my windows all day long — so always keep my distance in these situations.

We paid our driver for our 90 minutes on the river, and received a text from Maya as we clambered out of the boat. She had finished her yoga class and wondered if we wanted to grab lunch with her.

Obviously, we did.

Typical meal in Brunei

I can’t fully express how much richer Maya made our time in Brunei, so I’m disappointed she’s since closed down her guesthouse. Without her, we would have experienced greater challenges in a city with limited public transport, and wouldn’t have been able to explore as much of the country’s food scene.

She picked us up and told us she was going to drive us to one of her favourite restaurants. On the way, we discovered that her daughter is currently studying at the same university that I went to! My university was known for having one of the highest percentage of international students in the U.K., and many Bruneians choose to study in the U.K. on a full scholarship, but it still felt like a bizarre coincidence.

We pulled up outside Aminah Arif, and Maya told us she was going to introduce us to ambuyat: the national dish of Brunei.

Ambuyat is a bit of an odd meal, which was exactly why I had been so desperate to try it.

It’s made from the interior of a sago palm, and is completely tasteless. Its texture is gooey, gluey, and gloopy, and it’s eaten with a special type of fork called candas. These forks are made from two bamboo sticks that are glued together at one end and splay out to give a gap of around an inch at the other.

I have a feeling I’m not explaining this well. Here’s a photo of Dave using them.

Man eating ambuyat

Because ambuyat has zero flavour whatsoever, it’s a boring-ass dish to eat on its own. That’s why you order a ton of dips and dishes to accompany it! We chose a fantastic sauce that was made from fermented shrimp, durian, and chilli, and it gave each mouthful an incredible spicy, sweet, and sour flavour.

To eat ambuyat, you stick your chandas into the starch and start spinning the fork in your fingers, as you would with spaghetti. Once you’ve got a mouth-sized ball on the end of your fork, flick the chandas upwards, dip the ambuyat into the sauce, then place it in your mouth. Because ambuyat has such a glue-like texture, you need to swallow the ball immediately, totally whole, as chewing achieves nothing — trust me, I tried.

We spent three hours chatting with Maya as we sampled everything, then protesting when she told us this was her treat and refused to accept our money.

Maya: totally the best.

Bowl of ambuyat in Brunei

With our stomachs full, we returned to our guesthouse and pondered what to do next. We had the rest of the afternoon to explore, as well as the following day, and I realised we’d exhausted all of the touristy things to do in the country.

As in, there was nothing left to do.

Well, I mean, there were things .

I could have done the canopy walk at Ulu Temburong National Park, but everything I’d read said that the jungle was more impressive and less expensive to see in non-Bruneian Borneo, where I was going to be heading to next. I’d be spending money just for the sake of having something to do.

I could have gone SCUBA diving, too, but long-term readers already know I’ll spend the rest of my life writing about how I want to try it, but never actually having the courage to do so.

I could have taken a day trip out to Pantai Seri Kenangan, which is the best beach in Brunei, but the weather wasn’t conducive to sunbathing while we were there.

The rest of our time in Brunei could therefore be classified as a bit boring. For a capital city, Bandar Seri Begawan appeared to have next-to-nothing going on.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque in Brunei

So, is Brunei Worth Visiting?

Brunei is the only country I have little desire or need to return to. I don’t feel as though there’s more left to discover as a visitor, and it’s ones of the few countries where I felt I’d experienced almost every tourist-related activity within 48 hours.

Does that mean you shouldn’t go?

Not necessarily.

I genuinely enjoyed wandering around Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, loved trying ambuyat and experiencing Bruneian night market culture, and was fascinated by the way of life in Kampong Ayer. They were all worthwhile experiences, and I would recommend them to anyone planning a trip there. I also experienced such an extreme level of kindness and friendliness from the locals that it really stood out to me. I felt welcomed and safe.

Despite that, you can do the majority of the tourist activities within 24 hours. All of them within a couple of days.

The contrarian in me is livid that I’m about to offer the exact same recommendation as I’d read before arriving in Brunei.

You should visit Brunei if you want to visit every country in the world. You should visit Brunei if you find yourself passing through on a layover or when travelling in Borneo. You should visit Brunei if you want to see what one of the least visited countries in Asia is like. You should visit Brunei if it sounds interesting to you.

But, uh, you probably shouldn’t spend more than a couple of days there.

It turns out it does get pretty boring after all.

Would you make the effort to go to Brunei?

Related Posts on Brunei and Borneo 🇧🇳 How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Brunei? 🚍 How to Get From Brunei to Kota Kinabalu 🍜 Where to Eat in Kota Kinabalu 🪲 Catching Fireflies on the Kawa Kawa River

[Photos of Gadong Night Market via: cherry-hai/Shutterstock, as mine were horrendous]

Lauren Juliff

Lauren Juliff is a published author and travel expert who founded Never Ending Footsteps in 2011. She has spent over 12 years travelling the world, sharing in-depth advice from more than 100 countries across six continents. Lauren's travel advice has been featured in publications like the BBC, Wall Street Journal, USA Today, and Cosmopolitan, and her work is read by 200,000 readers each month. Her travel memoir can be found in bookstores across the planet.

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38 comments.

We did Borneo (Malaysian, based out of Kuching), and I loved it and wanted to go to Brunei when we went to the caves at Mulu, but just didn’t have the time. So I’m glad you’ve gone and done (as you always do) a great write up on it so I know what I missed.

And question for you – when you and Dave travel to more conservative countries like Brunei, do you wear wedding bands to avoid problems as two unmarried people staying together? I’ve heard that it’s a smart thing to do, and we did it before we were married just to be safe…

Nope, we have never worn rings. Never been asked to prove if we’re a married couple or had anyone object to us staying in the same room, and we’ve been to quite a few Islamic countries. If a hotel didn’t let us stay in the same room, we’d just book separate ones or stay in a different hotel.

Haha, I also choose to go places just because people say they’re boring! I’d definitely love to go to Brunei, even if there’s only like 2 days worth of stuff to do there. :)

High five for wanting to see a place in a different light! :-) Even though I didn’t quite manage it this time…

Cool! I’ll admit that Brunei has never been on my travel radar but sounds like a great stop. That food market sounds awesome and those monkeys are so cute! I’m glad you enjoyed your time there, even if you don’t need to go back. I think that’s okay. We don’t have to love every place and want to revisit. I also tried chicken butt in the Philippines and remember it being a big joke at the table!

Honestly, it feels so good to not feel a desperate urge to a return to a place for once. My travel wishlist is forever growing, so I’m always looking for an excuse to strike places from the list! :-)

I challenge you to visit East Timor

Already have a trip booked there for March.

Nice one. Would be really interesting to read something about it first hand as there is not much info on any travel blog.

Yeah, I haven’t been able to find much online about it so I’m super excited to get there! That’s always my favourite kind of travel destination.

Actually, the Chinese population takes up 30%~ of the country.

I’d read that in a few places, but also that it was around 10% in others, like: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethnic_Chinese_in_Brunei Thanks for reading!

I have to admit, despite your claims it was boring, somehow this post has made me want to visit (but maybe just for a day). Ambuyat looks so interesting and I want to try it! Hard pass on the chicken anus though.

Ha! Ambuyat, at least, is really worth trying. I wish it was available outside of Borneo so that more people would have the opportunity to try it.

Did you guys tried the Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque? I read in another blog that while not as pretty as the Omar Ali Saifuddien, it is still attractive and plus it is the biggest in the country. Just an idea for an additional activity.

Yep! It was pretty nice. You can see the outside within five minutes, though, and we weren’t allowed inside.

Fascinating! I knew virtually nothing about Brunei and I think if I had looked into visiting, I probably wouldn’t have bothered because like you say, most people just say it’s boring – but you’ve actually made me interested in going! Everyone sounds so friendly too. It would be interesting to see what you would have thought if you had just gone for 2 days and not run out of things to do.

That’s so funny! Even when I came to write this post, I was expecting it to turn out super-negative, but by the end of it, I was like, oh okay, Brunei wasn’t actually that bad . Just a little boring, but as long as you visit for just a couple of days, you won’t have enough time to experience that.

Thanks for sharing, I’m always curious to know more about these least-popular countries. I don’t think I will ever go there myself as I don’t travel full time so I need to manage my itineraries well – with so many interesting places and activities in that region of the world, I guess Brunei will not fit in there ;) But I enjoyed learning more about it from your post. And respect for trying that chicken butt… ;)

Hey man, Just a suggestion. you guys should try to go to Temburong ( 4th District of Brunei ). since you said you love jungle. you will love it

Thank you! Maybe if I head back to Brunei for a second time :-)

I grew up in Brunei in the 90’s/early 2000’s, had 12 years there as an expat from the UK. I’m so happy you went and that other people are thinking of going. I know I’m bias as I had a wonderful childhood and still think of it as home but I’m happy from the sounds of it Brunei is still Brunei regardless of the law changes. I went round selling flowers as an enterprising 10 year old and got invited for a lot of cups of tea. A couple of things; you can go trekking on horseback on the beach, go to the Empire Hotel (very posh but fun if you want to splurge), wander through the jungle to waterfalls, have a night over the border in Miri if you want some local nightlife, stay in a traditional long house in Temburong. I’ve always said Brunei is the kind of place that you are either there for a weekend or a lifetime.

My husband & I visited Brunei for 5 days. We enjoyed the peacefulness & the nature of Brunei.

Thanks for the good writing. It seems Brunei has nothing going on in it after all. There is much greater mosque on it’s neighbour, Kinabalu. Better museums thorough South East Asia.

Also Kampung Ayer is nothing compared to Kapuas riverside in my city (Pontianak). We have much better food too.

Brunei will be the last country to visit, for me. Even though it’s a neighbouring country.

Yes, it’s not really a country to go out of your way to check out, but if you do get there, there’s at least a day or two’s worth of things to keep you busy.

Thanks Lauren for what you wrote about Brunei, it helped me a lot. I like Brunei, two days are perfect. I found an old chineese, second generation (58 years old) that drove us around half day for $ 60 No stress and he knew everything like a guide. Only problem is that you cant have a beer when you want to but I see it like a rehab ! Tomorrow he pick us up and drive us to the airport cheaper than a taxi and he bring me a beer ! Hans

That sounds like such a great trip! I’m glad you had a nice time :-)

Thanks Lauren for sharing your experience. It sounded you have a pleasant visit after all! Brunei may not have some of the “fun” places that tourists can find in other countries for e.g. 🍻🍷or night life, but Brunei offers fun eco-tourism (if one goes beyond Bandar Seri Begawan) in addition to places which offer local (and international) delicacies and cultural experience. Brunei is a safe, peaceful and a generally clean country. The people are friendly and hospitable and that makes you feel welcomed as a tourist! How one’s visit to a place turned out to be “boring” or “pleasant”, it sometimes depends on whether you feel welcomed or unwelcomed! It’s a pity you didn’t visit the amazing waterfall “tasik” which is about 15 mins away from town, the ulu Belalong national park in Temburong district, the Empire Hotel, the Jerudong theme park… For those who are yet to visit Brunei, you can do a trip around Borneo…Kota Kinabalu – Brunei – Miri – Kuching – Pontianak. Every stop will give you different experience. A number of my friends after they did the Borneo experience, they shared that they appreciate Brunei being a safer, peaceful and a cleaner country.

I appreciate the details you gave about your visit. It definitely sounds like a place to visit for some people and not for some. Like you, I like to visit places that most people advise against, in the hopes of discovering something different or unique that others may have missed. I have to say, however, that I am disappointed in your views of Sharia Law, especially in its practice in a place where you were only a visitor. The reason they don’t pay taxes, have free healthcare and education, and many other liberties (that the so-called free world doesn’t even have) is directly from Sharia Law. For you to imply that Sharia Law “is never a good thing” is absolutely offensive and inconsiderate to over 2 billion of the world’s population. You may not believe in or agree with Sharia Law or certain aspects of a specific religion, but that doesn’t give you (or anyone else) the right to judge or criticize. It’s like someone saying, “Most things about Italy were great, but a majority of the people are Catholic, which is never a good thing because, you know, they’re all pedophiles and they hate gays. But I loved the food and cathedrals!” It’s offensive, ignorant, and careless.

For informational purposes, I would also like to add that Mosques are places of worship for Muslims. Their extravagance and beauty are meant to show devotion to God and love for the faith. Comparing Mosques and saying that one is more beautiful than the other is frowned upon because they are all considered “House of God.” One can absolutely have a favorite, but comparing them as if it were a competition of architecture is considered disrespectful.

All in all, I enjoyed reading about your experience in Brunei and I thank you for sharing them. I only ask that you think carefully next time before insulting an entire group of people.

I’m queer. How can I be positive about something that states I should be murdered because of who I love?

If Catholicism resulted in Italy introducing a law where humans like me were stoned to death, then yeah, I would have the same opinion as I do with Sharia law.

Hi Lauren, This is the first article of yours I have read, having wandered here through the glories of random links. I shall certainly read more, your style is very informative and has a pleasant, conversational tone.

I felt I must comment (I rarely do) in response to the previous politely disparaging post. Strict Sharia law is an extreme element of Islam, any attempt to justify extremism is indefensibly wrong, regardless of context or faith. I don’t have a deity, but if I did I would not trust anyone who told me to kill for that deity, that is their own agenda speaking. Similarly, as a non-Muslim it is totally acceptable to consider Mosques in terms of their aesthetic qualities. I suppose I would be assumed to be Christian by default; I’m not, but I adore Christian churches, especially York Minster. They are often beautiful and I’m in awe of what we can achieve, that’s not disrespectful to a faith I have no interest in or interaction with.

Anyway, more power to your elbow, Lauren, I’m off to browse your archive.

“Sharia” only means “law”. It is not the problem. The problem is what some countries make of a simple arabic word. You could have simply boycotted the place this said, instead of spending money in a country without basic human rights.

I don’t believe in travel boycotts — if I did, I wouldn’t be able to visit anywhere. All countries are unethical in some way. I wouldn’t even be able to spend time in my own home country! The places that I visited in Brunei were locally-run establishments — locals are not their governments.

Hi! I’m glad that you visited Brunei. :) It certainly isn’t the place for people who seeks for adventure and this is coming from a person who’s lived here for 20 years.

Even though we are lacking in terms of development, it still is a place that is close to my heart. When the government provide all these free stuff they’re forsaking development / infrastructure (or at least that wasn’t their priority). This is probably why it’s terribly boring here. However, I still wouldn’t leave this place. It’s probably difficult for people to fathom why but this country I call home is far more than what is said on the news.

I can’t say how life is like for queer people here since I’m not one. But my best friend is. She loves Brunei with her entirety. Of course that doesn’t speak for all the queer people. And I certainly do not agree with how Chinese are not being treated as one of us. Or how low-skilled immigrants are treated by some locals. These are some social problems that we have. But it’s still a beautiful place to me.

I’d like to end this message with how I’ve learned to come to love my country. I wasn’t a patriot. I was liberal than most people my age when I was younger due to being exposed to western laws and media. So I disagreed with a lot of things done here. There was this instance in my life where I visited the rehabilitation centre for drug addicts. This one staff who was in charge of touring us really spoke to me when he teared up over how though there are people on death rows the Sultan never passed for them to be executed. The last execution was in 1950s. Then there was another instance, my mom was diagnosed with cancer and we didn’t have to pay a single cent for her treatment. If we had to we probably wouldn’t have been able to afford it since I don’t come from a privileged family. Where healthcare is scarce and a luxury at some places I am eternally grateful for being born here.

OKAY IM PROBABLY RAMBLING on why I love this country but yeah just an insight.

Kind regrads, Nazihah

What an ignorant idiot. Sharia laws should be implemented as they are so beneficial for societal stability and Human rights. Imagine living somewhere where there is nothing wrong with being gay. What a disgraceful violation of human rights. Sharia is so lenient. It simply allows Muslims to be Muslims and non Muslims to be non Muslims privately. But of course, westerners want Muslims to be nuked. Homosexuality should obviously be punished with stoning;. A baby whom hasn’t been manipulated by the west could tell you as much.

You know, in my experience, I’ve found the people who are most disgusted by LGBTQ+ humans are those who secretly wish they had the freedom to explore that side of themselves. I hope one day you’ll be able to get the opportunity to do so 💜

Youre so disgusting

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Ultimate Brunei Itinerary – How to Fully Cover the Country in 3 Days

June 25, 2019 by Bino 13 Comments

Nestled in the northern part of the island of Borneo, the oil-rich state of Brunei is one of the smallest countries in Asia and also one of the least visited. If you fancy history and amazing architecture (particularly Islamic) with a bit of the tropical vibe thrown in, then Brunei is for you. As a developed country and owing to its small size, it is relatively easy to get around and you can conveniently see the sights of Brunei within a few days. Personally, I found three nights to be enough to see Brunei. Here is my suggested itinerary for a trip to the country:

brunei female travel

omar ali saifuddien mosque in bandar seri begawan

Table of Contents

Day 1 – Bandar Seri Begawan / Kampong Ayer

Stroll the grounds of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and marvel at its ornate marbled exterior. Do this as your first stop in the morning to “whet your appetite” on Brunei. Check out the main dome which is covered in pure gold. Admission is free and you can enter the mosque outside of prayer hours.

From here, it is just a short walk from the Yayasan Complex from where you can buy souvenirs or stock up on groceries if you are ever in need of any. The area is also filled with restaurants and you can stop here for lunch. If you’re not feeling peckish, the area immediately east of Yayasan Complex contains the Teng Yun temple (the oldest in Brunei) and has a number of traditional family-run stores – an interesting place for a short stroll.

brunei female travel

the jame asr bolkiah mosque

It’s a short walk to the Royal Regalia Museum which features a number of objects including gifts the Sultan of Brunei has received over the years as well as equipment used during his coronation and silver jubilee (check out the royal chariot in the entrance hall). Opening hours: Sun-Thu from 9am to 5pm, Fri 9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm, Sat 9.45am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm.

Head over to the Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque . Built in 1994, this is Brunei’s largest mosque and it boasts of 29 golden domes. Surrounded by a landscaped garden as well as fountains, it’s also a noteworthy sight in the evening when the mosque is floodlit. From the city center, you can take Bus #1 and stop right by the gate. Do note the opening hours: 8am-noon, 2-3pm & 5-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, 10.45am-noon, 2-3pm & 5-6pm Sun, closed Thu & Fri

Take the #1 bus again and head back to Bandar Seri Begawan in the late afternoon. By this time, it won’t be too hot to visit Kampong Ayer (the water village). Point to point rides around Kampong Ayer cost $1 while a one hour boat ride around Kampong Ayer should not cost more than $10. So what will you get to see within that hour? You’ll be shown places such as the floating fire station, floating mosque, floating school and plenty of houses built on stilts. You can also ask the boat man to take you for a glimpse of the Istana Nurul Iman, the residence of the sultan. If you have time, you should also check out the Kampong Ayer Museum which details the history of the area. An overnight stay in one of the houses on stilts is also possible if you wish to spend more time there.

brunei female travel

long boats at the ulu temburong national park

Day 2 – Ulu Temburong National Park

Morning & Afternoon

Head out to Ulu Temburong National Park – a trip which will take you the entire day. The journey is an adventure in itself where from downtown BSB, you’ll take a ride through mangroves on a speedboat to the lodge before being transferred to a longboat. Exploration of the national park generally includes various attractions such as the waterfall with “fish spa” and an exhilarating climb up a rickety set of stairs to the canopy walk for a bird’s eye view of the rainforest.

brunei female travel

translucent waters at the national park

Most tours start at around 7:30AM from the pier in Bandar Seri Begawan and end at around 5pm.

brunei female travel

enormous pool area of the empire hotel, brunei

Tip: Singapore Dollars can also be used in Brunei at a rate of 1:1.

Day 3 – Gadong & Chilling at Empire Hotel

Chill at one of the most resplendent hotels in the world, the Empire Hotel & Country Club – where you should give yourself a treat and stay at least a night. A self-styled 6-star property, you can either have a relaxing time inside the luxurious room or chill outdoors. There’s a decent beach with a lagoon that is good for swimming and kayaking. For sports enthusiasts, the property has actually won a couple of awards for golfing.

brunei female travel

the beach of the empire hotel

Afternoon & Evening

For some last minute shopping, go to The Mall at Gadong – Brunei’s largest shopping center. It’s a mostly modern affair where you can find high street brands. From Empire Hotel, #57/58 bus will take you there.

A short walk from the shopping center is Gadong Night Market . You will find a lot of interesting eats in the outdoor space from 4PM onwards. Make sure to try the pulut panggang (rice stuffed with meat and wrapped in banana leaves), local kueh (small cakes) as well as the grilled seafood.

If you have extra time in Brunei…

Not a must-see but if you find yourself with extra time in Brunei, consider making the 1.5 hour trip to Seria in western Brunei to gain a better understanding of the industry that’s powering the economy of the nation. There is a monument dedicated to the billionth barrel of oil extracted in Brunei and it’s erected in the site of the first oil well discovered in the country.

Travel Tips for Brunei

  • Singapore Dollars can also be used in Brunei and the exchange rate is 1:1. Likewise, if you have leftover Brunei Dollars, you can easily use them in Singapore.
  • As a rule of thumb, taxi fares from the airport to downtown Bandar Seri Begawan should cost no more than B$25. If you’re heading to Empire Hotel from the airport, the fare should be around B$15.
  • Brunei is under Sharia law and all restaurants and eateries are closed from 12 noon to 2pm every Friday. To save yourself from getting hungry during lunch time, you may take an early lunch or buy a takeaway meal.
  • I typically shop around when buying travel insurance and using this travel insurance aggregator allows me to compare prices and benefits in one glance. 

Where to stay in Brunei

I have stayed in a number of lodging options in Brunei. To experience the best that the country has the offer, do book at least one night at Empire Hotel and Country Club . The property is an attraction in itself. For something closer to the city, the recently renovated Radisson Hotel Brunei is an excellent choice. You can also compare for the best prices for Brunei hotels HERE .

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Let me know your thoughts by leaving a comment below. Alternatively, you can also email me at b i n o (at) iwandered.net. You can follow I Wander on Facebook , Telegram , or Instagram . Also, if you liked this article, please feel free to SHARE or RETWEET

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August 25, 2017 at 12:36 am

I’m going to Brunei tomorrow. Thank you so much for this useful post!

brunei female travel

August 29, 2017 at 10:25 pm

No problem! Hope it was helpful!

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January 8, 2018 at 8:22 pm

Your post is very useful, thanks!

I’m going there this August, is the weather good for travelling that time? How’s the actual weather?

January 9, 2018 at 3:48 pm

It’s ok at that time but there’s a tendency to have haze — it’s a seasonal thing and dependent on wind patterns.

January 10, 2018 at 12:42 pm

Thanks for that info, will take note of that.

January 11, 2018 at 9:32 am

One more question, is it possible to go inside the Empire Hotel and Country Club and use the amenities (even with a fee, it’s ok) or at least stroll along the beachfront even if you did not check in on the hotel?

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February 1, 2018 at 8:57 pm

Very informative & useful post! ? thanks!

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February 28, 2018 at 11:30 pm

This is one of the most detailed and practical itineraries for Brunei which I’ve read in a while, Bino! Now I feel ready to cross Brunei off my bucket list and thus, your post will come in handy. When would it be the best time fo the year to explore Brunei?

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March 10, 2018 at 10:19 am

Hi, will you suggest car rent at brunei if we have 4 adult & 2 small kids? For 4 days 3 nights (perhaps 2 nights at city & 1 night at empire hotel. TQ

March 10, 2018 at 11:12 pm

Yes, car rental sounds sensible for a family. It’ll be hard to bring the kids along if you commute.

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June 18, 2018 at 4:16 am

HI Bino Great information – thank you. Would suggest taking an organised tour or could we do this on our own using public transportation or taxis?

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July 27, 2021 at 2:29 am

Does tourists can visit the palace during Id El Fiter or only local citizens.

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March 6, 2023 at 11:51 am

Hi which tour you booked to go to ulu temburong?

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A Very Honest Overview Of Travelling ‘Boring’ Brunei

Everyone tells me Brunei is boring. Really? I wanted to find out for myself. It was a 4-days-3-nights spontaneous decision to heed the call of #DiscoverBrunei and enter what Brunei Tourism calls the “Kingdom of Unexpected Treasures”. 

It’s easy to see why hardly anyone considers travelling to Brunei as a holiday destination despite attempts to market it as an underrated travel destination. 5 hours into Brunei and I saw why everyone who has lived in this oil-rich country tells me “Brunei is boring, there’s nothing to see or do here.”

bruneiriver

Down the Brunei river

Brunei is not at all impressive at the first sight, especially for a Malaysian. Their government-commissioned travel pamphlets ramble a list of all too familiar sights and sounds: water village, mosques, rainforests, pasars and a list of food that do not stray too far from the Malaysian menu. There is zero nightlife and everything closes at about 9pm. The locals speak the same Malay tinged with an accent and their English is perfect, perfectly similar to the beautiful sound of Manglish.

True to its status as a hudud-enforced Muslim nation, Brunei is a dry country. You won’t be able to buy a single drop of alcohol here (not even at the airport), unless you know a guy who knows a guy in the underground drinking market. Or else, you’d have to drive two hours to the Brunei-Miri border where all the booze and bars are.

brunei travel kampung ayer

Situated in Bangsar Seri Begawan, Kampong Ayer is both largest attraction in the capital and the largest water village in the world

In Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital city, there is no city buzz nor glitzy skyscrapers. The streets are quiet in the day as it is at night. If I were to remove the word “Brunei” from the signboards, I could’ve mistaken Brunei Darussalam as Kelantan Darul Naim, Terengganu Darul Iman or Kedah Darul Aman. That was what Brunei felt like from the get-go – familiar and comfortable.

Upon arriving, the first thing I wanted to know was if the rumours I heard as a child were true. Are the floors really paved in gold? Is there a glorious amusement park with free entry?

“True, but not exactly,” Jun Lee, a true blue Bruneian whom I met at the guesthouse told me. The streets are not paved in gold, but the dome of the country’s icon, the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque is. The Jerudong Park amusement park used to be free during its glory days, but is not exactly free anymore.

brunei travel: Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque

Brunei’s iconic Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, where the dome is plated with gold and the marble columns are imported from Italy

My Brunei travel partner Matt and I have just met Jun and he immediately offered to drive us into town. The ride quickly became more than that as Jun played tour guide, driving us to the interesting sights in town and feeding us with unexpected factoids – like how they imported marble from Italy to build the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, how the Brunei Sultan used to own all of Borneo, and how the Malaysian Sultan gifted Brunei a questionable blue clock.

As we listened to Jun’s story, the dull facade of Brunei was slowly filled in with colours. My favourite story was how the name of Nasi Katok, Brunei’s version of Nasi Lemak, came to be. Nasi Katok was originally sold from homes. To buy a packet, you’d have to knock, knock, knock on the door until the house owner answers. ‘Ketuk’ is the Malay word for knock and ‘nasi’ translates to rice, hence the name Nasi Katok. 

I thought the country have moved on from the Nasi Katok “knock to buy” model but I was sorely wrong. While we were visiting Kampong Ayer, a massive water village complete with schools, fire department and police stations, we saw signs selling ice-cream for a few cents. The A4 paper signs were tacked by the front door, but the door was closed and there was no one in sight. We knocked on the first shop; nobody answered. We tried the next shop and after a couple of knocks, we heard footsteps shuffling towards the door.

The door opened to reveal a young boy, barely 10. He opened the door just large enough for his head to poke out. I caught a glimpsed of a television set in what looks like a living room behind him. This is obviously not a shop.

brunei-ice-cream

Ice cream at Kampong Ayer

“Ya?” his small pre-pubescent voice piped up. “You sell ice cream?” We asked.

He confirmed that we can procure ice cream from this establishment. He asked us for our flavours, closed the door, and ran in to get the goods. Then, he opened the door to inform us that they were out of watermelon flavour. We said it’s okay, what about durian and cocktail? He closed the door. He opened the door with ice-cream in hand to exchange the goods and money. He closed the door again to get change. Finally, he opened the door one last time to return our change and bid us good-bye.

That was the most confusing and intense ice cream purchase ever. I wasn’t sure if we were buying ice cream or cocaine. Whatever it was, it wasn’t very good.

The more we saw these unexpected quirks of Brunei, the more Brunei grew on us. For such a loaded country, Brunei does not boast its riches. While the rest of the world chases after the titled of world’s tallest building, biggest this and longest that, Brunei is happy with the world’s largest water village and a gold-plated mosque. Those, however, do not look like efforts to win some global kiasu contest. They look like sincere efforts to maintain their culture and heritage. For one, Kampong Ayer was always large to start with. It was the country’s administrative centre until some white guy told them it’s not proper for government offices to be on water.

brunei travel

Muara beach in Brunei is comparable to Port Dickson in local crowd and quality

I’ll admit it – the locals are right, there is not much to see, do nor buy in Brunei. The city will keep you occupied for half a day at most. There are two beaches, both are public and serve as a recreation park for the locals. The water is murky and there are sandflies so don’t expect any sunbathing. The other notable sights, an Iban longhouse, and the Ulu Temburong National Park are supposed to be amazing yet they are more than 2 hours away from the city. I’m gutted I didn’t have time to visit the forests, but let me tell you about diving in Brunei. 

Oh, Brunei has such amazing diving that deserves more recognition! Unbeknownst to many, Brunei is one of the world’s best wreck dive sites. It is also nudibranch heaven and a mecca for underwater photographers. I did 6 dives with Brunei’s best dive centre  Oceanic Quest  and saw more nudis that I can count. There were also seahorses, octopus, scorpionfish; there were reef dives, wreck dives, oil rigs… The Brunei diving scene is definitely a story to tell in my next post . 

brunei travel: go diving

#DiveBrunei because it has great shipwrecks with even better stories. Photo via Oceanic Quest.

If the land attractions didn’t make me feel for Brunei, the underwater scenes definitely did it for me. At the end of my 4-day travel in Brunei, it hit me that when residents say Brunei is boring, they are not moaning about it; they are merely stating a fact. If you further the conversation past “there is nothing to do in Brunei”, they will tell you that Brunei is a good place to live and one that they enjoy. The currency is strong, there is no stressful traffic jams, it’s very peaceful, crime is low, and is a healthy place to bring up a family.

According to Jun, they have more quality time to spend with their families and the luxury to explore their hobbies because there aren’t any vices to distract them. True enough, one evening at the park we spotted several families out for a lovely barbecue picnic. On the water, there were people zooming past in a very expensive hobby Matt excitedly calls “the F1 of boats”.

On top of that, all the Bruneians we met here are a friendly and happy bunch. Drivers would patiently stop for pedestrians, shop owners would strike up interesting conversations with us, one passerby at Pasar Gadong saw us tucking into a grilled fish delicacy and stopped to tell us exactly what we were eating (fish wrapped in leaves and grilled with tamarind). They are the kind of people who would stop and offer you a ride if they see you walking on the streets alone.

Brunei is not an exciting country to travel and does not try to be one. The pace is slow and the vibe is chilled out. It’s not the destination for tourists looking for an explosive holiday with tonnes to see, do and buy. If you want a small hometown vibe where you can slow down and discover the forests, diving, and people, then Brunei will be your cup of tea.  Brunei may not have much to offer on paper, but a Kingdom of Unexpected Treasures it is indeed.

Brunei travel

Mei’s Brunei travel tips:

  • According to the locals, the best place to eat in Brunei is a Japanese restaurant called Kaizen Sushi . It’s delicious, but it’s also exactly the same as any Japanese restaurants in the Klang Valley. Price is about $B45 per person. Call early to book a window seat with a view of Kampong Ayer. 
  • You won’t be able to buy alcohol in Brunei. Non-Muslims above 17 are allowed to bring in 2 litres of liquor or 330ml of beer (about 12 cans) upon entering the country. More info here . 
  • The Bruneian dollar is pegged to the Singapore dollar. $SG is accepted in Brunei and vice versa, though you are likely to get a look from the Singaporean cashiers.
  • Buses are the only public transportation in Brunei and it ends at about 8pm. Towns are far and wide apart so start your day early or rent a car.
  • Avoid taxis , they are expensive as hell. Everyone owns a car in Brunei; nobody uses the taxis. A taxi driver told us that there are only about 40-odd taxis in the country. One 30-minute ride we took from Gadong to Muara cost us about $B40 (RM121).
  • The Brunei airport is very, very strict with the cabin luggage policy. They weigh your luggage twice, once upon check-in and another at the boarding gate. Make sure you only carry one cabin bag and one small handbag. I was using a half empty 10litre bag pack as my handbag and they stopped me. They weighed both my bag pack and cabin luggage to make sure that the combined weight did not exceed 7kgs.
  • The best time to dive in Brunei is between April to August. Read: Make Brunei Your Next Dive Trip: Everything You Need To Know .
  • Brunei is a very safe country for backpackers. Read: Is Brunei Safe For Solo Women Travellers? 

brunei travel

Kampong Ayer is the most, if not only, photogenic place in Bandar Seri Begawan

Read more interesting travel destinations:

On The Wild Side Of Mauritius  23 Curious Things to Notice When Travelling In Egypt  Volunteering With Animals In Yogjakarta, It’s Not Just Dirty Work  The Business Of Buddhism In Sri Lanka  

__________ I’m dedicating meimeichu.com to honest travel stories that’ll teach and inspire. If you like travelling through my stories and photos, do follow my personal  Facebook  and  Instagram  profiles where I share more stories. 

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A biased review of Aposto, Kuala Lumpur’s modern Italian restaurant

I’m not a food critic – it’s an art where I prefer eating rather than writing – but this is one restaurant I must tell you about: Aposto KL .

Tucked away in a quiet corner in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Aposto is KL’s latest modern Italian restaurant . This trendy, up-and-coming food haunt serves classic Italian recipes with a delectable twist, as Chef Patron Chu Wei Sin’s re-imagines Italian staples, sprinkling influences from his affair with fine-dining, Japanese and Western culinary experience, and touches of his Malaysian upbringing.

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FAQ About Solo Trips in Brunei

Is brunei a good place to solo travel, is brunei safe for solo travelers, is brunei expensive for solo travel.

You can save money by staying in a low-cost hotel or hostel and splitting your expenses with other travelers. A hostel can be a great place to meet new people if you are traveling alone, but you can also use GAFFL to connect with other travelers in Brunei, share costs, and travel together to save money on your solo trip to Brunei.

Essential Solo Travel Tips For A Trip To Brunei

How are gaffl solo trips in brunei different than tour companies, are gaffl solo trips in brunei free, are gaffl solo trips in brunei safe.

Travelers on GAFFL go through a multi-step verification process that includes phone, social, and government ID verification, so you can be confident in your potential travel companion. You also have the option of connecting or not connecting with anyone you want. On GAFFL, you have complete control over who you travel with.

Can you give me an example of how solo tours in Brunei are different from Tour Companies?

How much money can gaffl save me on my next solo trip to brunei.

A two-week trip to Brunei with a traditional tour company can cost thousands of dollars. When you connect with a solo traveler on GAFFL and split costs for things like rental cars and lodging, you are not paying any additional fees that are typically associated with tour companies, and by splitting costs, the overall cost per person is significantly reduced.

Are GAFFL solo trips in Brunei run by Tour Companies?

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Fantastic Places for Solo Female Travel Series – Borneo

Some posts on this site contain affiliate links, meaning if you book or buy something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission. Read the full disclosure policy  here .

Visit Borneo As A Solo Female Traveller

This is the fourth instalment in my “Best Places To Travel If You Are A Solo Female Traveller” series. So far I've done Australia , Canada and Costa Rica . This week I'm moving on to Borneo.

Table of Contents

If you are concerned about travelling to Malaysian-Borneo as a woman on your own, there is no need to be. I found Borneo very easy to travel with affordable food, good accommodation options and heaps of great wildlife and nature experiences.

Check out how to get to Borneo, get around and the pros and cons of travelling solo in this small Malaysian country that is perfect for budget solo travel.

A young Orangutan female at the sanctuary in Sandakan

Information About Sabah and Sarawak, Borneo

Borneo is on the same Island as both Brunei and Indonesia's Kalimantan. Slightly east of Singapore, Borneo is made up of two states, Sabah and Sarawak. Sabah is in the north east of the island quite close to the Philippines, and Sarawak covers most of Borneo as the western section of the country. You do have to pass through passport control if you fly from one to the other.

The provinces of Sabah and Sarawak, Malaysian-Borneo

Weather in Malaysian-Borneo

Malaysian Borneo is a tropical country and has a fairly constant temperature year round. You could expect to find temperatures between 27 and 33 degrees Celsius with a high level of humidity of around 80%.

While the dry season (May~September) is also the high tourism season, don't be scared to go outside of these time frames. Even if you do get a heap of rain, its warm so it's not altogether unwelcome in the heat.

The other consideration is that while Borneo's wet season is said to be Oct~March, the regions are so different that some will be having intense summer storms and some will be almost barren weather wise. For such a small country the weather can be remarkably different from one end to the other. Temperatures are consistent, but rain and wind can be very different just a few hundred kilometres away.

Sabah typically is more hit and miss with the weather, where as Sarawak has more distinct seasons and you should visit both regions to get the full Borneo experience. If you are looking for the purpose of travel weather shouldn't really be a concern. The seasons are a little different but its warm or hot -there's not much more too it than that.

Is Borneo Safe For Solo Female Travellers?

Yes. Borneo is safe, friendly and well tuned in to women in particular travelling on their own. Borneo is very much a nature driven destination and a lot of travellers who like this kind of exposure are women.

While a lot of people want to see the Orangutans and Proboscis Monkeys, from the research I've done a higher percentage of animal tourists are female. This has led Borneo in particular to cater to not just female tourists but solo female explorers. So if you are wondering is Borneo safe, YES I would consider it a safe destination for women.

Of course like anywhere, you have to be smart about what you wear, what you do and where you go, but I found Borneo to be very safe over all and never had any trouble or even any inkling of trouble.

If you are still a little nervous I do mention some tours at the bottom of the page that might suit your travel style.

Borneo Travel Requirements & Visa Info

Most countries can get a visa on arrival in Borneo. Keeping in mind that you will most likely enter in through Kuala Lumpur, you will have got your Malaysian Visa on arrival into KL airport. There tourists visas (or Visa Pass as they used to be referred to) are valid for 90 days.

There are some countries where you do have to apply for an eVisa. Malaysian Immigration lists those on this page . E-Visa's for Borneo do require a fee where automatic Visa On Arrival does not.

Travel Borneo Warnings Or Dangers

I have always found Malaysian Borneo to be very safe, however like anywhere you can and should be careful in some areas. Borneo is a Muslim country so it is advisable to be sure you are respectful of local dress and make sure you are also dressed accordingly.

Dress Codes in Borneo

While its not as strict as the UAE for example, you do need to be considerate of local beliefs and customs, both in how you dress and act.

Covering up with lightweight clothing along with being respectful, is also the best way to avoid getting burnt in the hot sun. While Borneo's climate is very humid and can feel like there isn't too much sun around, you will get just as badly burned with cloud cover as you would in full sun, so be sun safe.

Public Displays of Affection

Public displays of affection should be avoided and shoulders and knees should be covered in places of religious significance.

Avoid Religious or Political Discussions in Malaysia & Borneo

Avoid discussions about political or religious subject matter with strangers. If someone insists on talking to you, use it as a learning experience but please don't make comments or voice your own opinions, no matter how informed you might feel you are. If you don't know the person well, don't engage in a political or religious discussion.

Robbery and Pickpocketing in Borneo

Borneo is a country where most families have limited income. Visiting with your 2 carat engagement ring is just not really the thing to do. Don't embarrass the locals by wearing obviously expensive jewellery, or with obvious designer bags or luggage if you can.

While I've never heard about any particular hotspots with regard to pickpockets in Borneo, use your travel sense and keep your valuables inside a bag that is secured to your person at all times. Wallets in pockets, cross body bags that don't zip up or backpacks that can be sliced easily are asking for trouble.

Just be smart about what you are carrying and how visible it is to avoid getting back to your hotel without your credit card.

Is Borneo Expensive to Travel?

For almost all countries, Borneo is very affordable for almost everything.

Accommodation Costs In Borneo:

Typically expect to pay around $22-40AUD for a hostel bed. They are usually on the lower end of that price range but the more popular areas where you are a captive market you can pay $35-$40 AUD per dorm bed.

There is often a single room option in the smaller hotels and hostels in Borneo which is awesome. I stayed at Woodpecker Lodg e in Kuching which has single rooms. They are a single bed and a tiny bathroom but its all yours! No sharing. They seem to be around $62 AUD per night at present and a bed in a 4 bed dorm room is $37 so just under double.

These rooms are great for solo travellers, especially woman as you are safe, private and comfortable to leave your possessions in your room when you are out.

Tour Prices in Borneo

The only item that you will pay elevated prices for are tours. Day tours are usually not too bad, but anything that has an overnight component usually means that will be in good standard of hotel. It's rare to get a multiday tour in Borneo that doesn't use the better hotels in the region.

The tour operators are well aware that a lot of visitors aren't use to the heat, would like a hot shower and often a pool to cool off, so accommodation levels on tours are often very good. This leads to the tours being not a cheap as you might expect.

I did Sarawak on my own and then jumped on a tour for Sabah. I was running out of time and got a great last minute deal for Sabah.

Check out Tour Radar options for a multi-day tour of Borneo .

Explore Borneo on a multi day tour

Food Costs In Malaysian Borneo

Food is very affordable and VERY good! Expect to pay $7-8 AUD ($5 USD) for a plate of noodles at a street side stall. The same meal in a restaurant will be around $10-12 AUD. Eating in a western style restaurant will mean you are paying $15-18 AUD for a main meal.

Its always heaps cheaper to eat in the local restaurants and because of the style of food, you don't have to be too worried about the quality. A lot of meals are stir fried which means they are cooked at extreme heat and ready for you to eat immediately.

How To Get To Malaysian Borneo

The easiest way to get to and from Borneo is via Kuala Lumpur. Get yourself to Kuala Lumpur and fly from there. Air Asia does fly direct into and out of Borneo most days. Check out Sky Scanner for flights from your home destination to Borneo.

There are quite a few companies that fly from Kuala Lumpur to lots of destinations in Borneo. Apart from flying into Kota Kinabalu , the main destinations are Kuching and Sandakan. Kuching is in the southern Sarawak area and Sandakan is in the northern Sabah area.

My recommendation would be to fly from KL into Kuching and then make your way up through Borneo to Sandakan and fly out of Sandakan to KL . Or vice versa.

Travel to Borneo From Australia

It is very easy to get to Kuala Lumpur from almost any Australian capital city. Melbourne, Gold Coast, Perth and Sydney have direct flights to Malaysia. From KL you can easily get a flight to Kota Kinabalu, Kuching or Sandakan at least daily and often multiple times per day.

If you are flying with Air Asia however, please allow enough time in KL to transfer to your domestic flight. Because you are landing into Malaysia in Kuala Lumpur this is where you will go through immigration and customs. You have to go through both these checkpoints and then check in to your domestic flight which may not be in same terminal.

While Air Asia and other booking websites might let you book your flights on the same ticket, be sure that you have sufficient time to get through immigration and change terminals if need be. I would say at least 3 hours is a minimum for this.

Search Flights to Borneo

Fly from kuala lumpur to kota kinabalu.

The following airlines fly direct from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu, most on at least a daily basis.

  • Malaysian Airlines – multiple times per day
  • Air Asia – multiple times per day
  • MY Airline – multiple times per day

Fly From Kuala Lumpur to Kuching

These airlines fly from Kuala Lumpur direct to Kuching, which is a great starting point for Borneo. As it is probably as far west as you are going to go in Borneo, its a great starting point. You can move east from here and fly out of Sandakan domestically or internationally (if possible) when you are finished your trip.

  • Malindo Air – once per day

Fly From Kuala Lumpur to Sandakan

There are fewer flights direct to and from Kuala Lumpur and Sandakan but there are multiple direct flights daily. Both Malaysian Airlines and Air Asia fly direct every day.

If you are moving through Borneo over a few weeks, if you head east to west or vice versa, you will probably go to Sandakan. The Turtle Islands are close to Sandakan and are worth a visit, so it probably much more cost effective to fly into Kuching and out of Sandakan than flying in and out of Kota Kinabalu. While Kota Kinabalu is in Sabah and not that far from Sandakan, it would be much easier to fly from Sandakan direct to KL than via Kinabalu.

Kurching river at sunset after a huge storm

Meet Jenny, a passionate Australian travel blogger who has explored 103 countries to date. With over 30 years of travel experience, Jenny has a wealth of knowledge to share with her readers about the cultures, landscapes, and people she has encountered on her journeys. She's always battling unfashionably frizzy hair and you will never catch Jenny in anything but comfortable shoes. Learn more about Jenny and her travels.

When Is The Best Time To Travel To Borneo?

Malaysian Borneo's weather temps don't change much from season to season. However the rainfall can. Some pockets of Borneo can get over 4 metres of rain per year so avoiding the main rainfall periods is recommended.

Sarawak has less rain that Sabah and usually the cooler months between April and September will be relatively dry and free of deluges. Temps range from 23-32 year round but you should find that in the cooler season it will average around 25-27 degrees C.

Sabah has more rain than Sarawak and while it is localised around the monsoon season (November to March) Sabah can get a decent rainfall at any time. It is more tropcal in style – an intense downpour mid to late afternoon – but again in the cooler months you should have better weather.

How To Get Around Malaysian Borneo

Update: 2023 – Most flights and airlines are operating again after COVID, however flights in general can still be crazy expensive at the moment and will be way more than ground transportation. Once that levels out again flights will again be worth the money.

Borneo is surprisingly easy to get around, and if you are looking for how to travel Borneo, this should help.

Travelling by Plane In Borneo

Both Sabah and Sarawak are serviced by multiple airlines. The main ones are Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia with Malindo Air in there for the bigger cities.

AirAsia are cheaper however be aware that they have no call centers and any changes must be made by their very frustrating chata bot “Ava”. I've flown Air Asia a lot and have always loved them, but they have really soured for me since COVID. I have a $2000 credit that it seems impossible to use.

They also cancelled one of our flights in Indonesia just this past December, and it was an absolute nightmare and 6 hours of my time to get my money back. They also cancelled a leg that wasn't even with them that it cost me $1100 AUD to replace. Sure airlines are suffering at the moment, but its impossible to get an actual person on chat and that damn bot is awful!

So if you get cheap flights and are happy to just throw them away if necessary – Air Asia are great. But if you are spending any decent money just be aware that they are AWFUL as far as customer service goes.

Malaysian Airlines are usually great, however their flights are priced obscenly at present. I just tried to get from Kuala Lumpur to Kathmandu which is a 4.5 hour flight and they wanted $1150 AUD each! That is just drug money and its not my responsiblity to keep Malaysian Airlines afloat I don't think??

Again, this may calm down in time (geez I hope so!), however it is unusual for Malaysian Airlines to fly the short internal legs and be competitive with AirAsia. 

Malaysian Airlines Fares

TIP FOR KUALA LUMPUR FLIGHTS:

Kuala Lumpur has multiple airports so just check which airport you are flying to or from when you book. Kuala Lumpur International & Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah. There is also KLIA2 which is the new low cost terminal so check where you are landing and taking off if you are doing an international connection.

Travelling by Bus in Borneo

Bus travel is easy and affordable in both Sarawak and Sabah. There are multiple bus companies, however they rely on third party booking agents like Easy Book to make and manage their bookings. I've booked and gotten tickets through these websites with no challenge at all, however if you are unsure, head to the big bus station in the town you are in and you can also book direct at the window.

Travelling by Car In Borneo

You could of course find a car and driver if you want to visit a particular area, however I wouldn't recommend this unless there are at least 2 or 3 of you. The price will be more than you pay to bus it or fly and using the bus network you can usually get fairly close to where you need to go and then grab a taxi or use Grab (like Uber in Asia) to get the shorter distance to your destination.

Using GRAB around the cities

GRAB is everywhere in Malaysia particularly Borneo. Just make sure you download it before you leave home and use it exactly like you would Uber. It is owned by Uber however after changing its name they saw a huge decline in use so it got changed back to Grab. This app is wonderful for Borneo solo travel as it allows you to order and use transportation without having to communicate via phone.

I remember the old days when you would have to flag down a cab and try and explain where you wanted to go. Now you order it via a secure app, you can track where you are in relation to where you are going and also pay securely.

The Kuching photography club with a Russian model.

Pros and Cons of Travelling In Borneo As A Solo Traveller

Pros for traveling borneo as a solo female:.

Borneo has long been a tourism destination for Australian's in particular so English is widely spoken.

With both bus and plane services readily available and affordable, its super easy to get around. It's also not very big so flights in particular are often cheaper than the bus.

There are lots of tours that do Borneo and because it's not very big, you can spend a few weeks and see almost everything. Intrepid Travel has some great tours, however Trip-A-Deal also has some very good deals for Borneo most of the time. Their deals usually include flights so take that into account when you look at the costs. $1999 for 11 days including return flights from Australia is a great deal.

It's very easy to get yourself from A to B in Borneo however it is on buses. As far as I'm aware, Borneo doesn't have a train system but the buses are usually very good.

There are more than a few single rooms available in Borneo. I stayed at a few places that were single rooms with my own tiny bathroom and they were all very affordable. Even a full double room isn't expensive so its one place you can afford to branch out to hostels rather than hostels for not much more money.

The food is AMAZING! South east Asian food is always good but Borneo has a very eclectic mix of Indian, Malaysian and Chinese so it is very good!

Taxi's are cheap and Uber is everywhere but the smaller towns. It's super easy to get around and super cheap.

Borneo has a wonderful mix of wildlife tourism, hiking and beaches so you can get your fix of everything in the one visit.

I found Borneo to be safe wherever I went. I never had a challenge anywhere and while I had heard mention of some Indian men being less than polite I never saw that to be true.

Food prep at the Chun Choon Cafe in Kuching, Malaysian Borneo

Cons for traveling Borneo as a solo traveller:

Some of the hostels are not good. Some are great, but there was one destination where they frequently tried to pass off “unsafe” as “funky”. I'm not saying don't stay in hostels (I did) however read the reviews before you book. And not just the ones on the front page, go back a few pages and see what others day.

Borneo is a mix of religions, however primarily Muslim so you have to make sure you know when Ramadan is as almost everything closes during this period. This is completely understandable during their biggest religious event, however it would really suck to be stuck somewhere with nothing to do. I don't think this is a con personally, however it is something you should know.

The very popular animal rehab centers can expose people for the idiots we can be. Beware of stepping in however. I grabbed a Chinese lady who was pretty much teasing an orangutan and her entire family wanted to fight me. It was fine and I just walked away, but I would do exactly the same thing again. Some people have no respect for wildlife and you will without a doubt see some of that.

Borneo is hot and humid. I found it no challenge at all and I was there in January, however I'm Australian and live in a hot environment. Others were complaining about the heat non stop so if you aren't a lover of hot wet summers, rethink it or stay at a 5 star hotel.

Cockroaches! EEwwww – cockroaches are everywhere and like here in Australia, they are huge . I swear they could carry off a small child and are just something you have to be used to in the tropics. It's not a sign of anything being unclean, they can just get in anywhere.

  • There isn't really wine in Borneo 🙁 It is a mostly Muslim country so that does explain it), but they also aren't wine drinkers typically so you will have to embrace the local beer.

My Recommendations For What To Do In Borneo

I jumped on to a last minute tour about half way through Borneo and loved it. I did about 14 days on my own which included Kuching , Mount Kinabalu, Kota Kinabalu, Gunung Mulu National Park , The Headhunters trail and Brunei. At that point I was researching what to do next and a tour from Intrepid came up at 30% off for last minute and I grabbed it with both hands.

I pretty much did Sabah, all the animal experiences, the river stay and the islands on the tour. Oh man it was so relaxing after getting myself around for a few weeks prior. This trip looks like it might be the one I did, but it seems to hit all the hotspots of Sabah even if I have that wrong.

These are my recommendations for visiting Borneo, whether you are a solo traveler or a group.

  • I would start on your own to maximise your budget and then join a trip to do Sabah if you would like an easier option at the end. I did Kota Kinabalu, climbed Mt Kinabalu, did Kuching and Bako National Park first. I then got the bus to Miri and hiked the Head Hunters Trail into Ganung Mulu National Park before flying to Kinabalu to join a tour for Sabah. This G Adventures tour from Tour Radar seems like a great price for Sabah and hits up all the places I did.
  • If you have some level of fitness Mount Kinabalu is a great hike. It's not super hard but you have to get up in the middle of the night to summit for the dawn so of course you are completely knackered that day. Of course it is uphill the entire way – don't laugh – some young women in our hiking team complained about it being constantly uphill.
  • Sepilok Orangutan Rehab Centre is really worth it. Your ticket allows you to come back later in the day so if you are staying somewhere close by you can spend a few hours in the morning and go back in the afternoon. Read more info in this post .
  • The Sun Bear sanctuary is very close to the Orangutan centre and is well worth seeing. The poor old sun bear doesn't get the media exposure that the Orangutans do but they are also suffering greatly with the destruction of their forest for palm oil plantations.
  • Gunung Mulu National Park is amazing! You have to either walk in via the head hunters trail or fly in and out. I walked in and flew out which was a great combination. The Headhunters trail is usually combined with other hiking in Mulu National Park (typically The Pinnacles) and is mostly only a short 12km long section before you get onto a boat on the river. and get taken out from there. I did a much longer walk but that's a story for another day. Mulu is amazing with caves and creeks and walks of all levels. You can either camp, stay in the little huts or if you want to splash out The Marriott is pretty cool. Brad bought me 3 nights here as a gift and it was amazing to have a bath to soak in after some very tough hikes. This link will help you plan and I would recommend booking some of the more amazing hikes as it does get busy.
  • Visiting Brunei will never be easier than when you are in Borneo. I spent a few days on Labuan Island so it was very easy to get on the ferry to Brunei from there. There are multiple options to get to Brunei but honestly if you weren't planning on staying on Labuan for a few days (and there isn't much there) its a full day trip from either Kuching or Kinabalu so I would fly the next time. The visa's are automatic on arrival (or were then at least) and I spent 2 full days and 3 nights in Brunei and felt that was the perfect amount of time. Viator has more than a few day trip options and while you can easily do it all yourself, stalking the day trips can give you an idea of what is worth doing.
  • The turtle islands are very cool and not far off Sandakan. They are a joint venture between Borneo and The Philippines and are a great place to visit to see the turtles laying their eggs.
  • Kuching is a great little city and jump off point for Bako National Park which is just a local bus ride away. Check out Chee Choon Cafe for what is said to be the best Laksa in Borneo. You will have to go early and have laksa for breakfast as they close when they are sold out which can be as early as 11am. There is a great little bike tour I did around Kuching which was very cool, the food in the city is great and if you stay at Woodpecker lodge you might be very lucky and get to go out to the local Chinese dinner street market with Oliver the owner.
  • Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary – this is a privately run sanctuary but it is very good. The monkeys are so playful and scamper around like there is no tomorrow. It is really fun. It's about 45 kms from Sandakan.
  • Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary and river lodges. There are many river lodges you can stay at along this waterway however they all do pretty much the same thing. Dawn and dusk electric boat rides that allow you to see the animals up close and personal. I stayed at Bilit Adventure Lodge which is very middle of the road but lovely staff and private rooms so I couldn't complain. There are heaps so just google Kinabatangan accommodation on Google Maps and you will find heaps of options. This is where I saw the huge male Orangutan making his next for the night from one of our boat trips.

As you can see from everything I've listed here, if you are interested in solo travel Borneo is a great place for that. Borneo is a wildlife and nature destination that I'm sure you will love. The main reasons you go are to see the animals and immerse yourself into nature. Let me know what you've done in Borneo so that next time I go back I can have something new to do!

Find Cheap Tours To Borneo

If you are Australian, or possibly even from New Zealand, Trip-A-Deal often has some great cheap tours for Borneo. They don't always have Borneo on sale but it is one of their main trips so if they don't have it when you check, get in touch with them because they may have one coming up soon. Obviously you would fly from Australia so if you are in New Zealand you would have to get to Brisbane or Sydney first.

Trip A Deal - Cheap tours Borneo.

Trip A Deal's Trips to Borneo:

Currently they have this 9 Day 2 for 1 deal for $3995 AUD. This price INCLUDES flights so sits at around $2000 AUD per person inclusive of getting there and back with Malaysian Airlines, Singapore Airlines or any codeshare partners (subject to availability). You can also earn around 12,000 points if you pay full price OR pay for some of the cost with your Qantas Frequent Flyer points. Check Availability

Check out my Borneo Destination Page for all the info, posts & places to visit in Borneo.

Other Borneo Posts You Might Like:

Hiking and Caving in Mulu National Park How You Can Help Save The Malaysian Sun Bear

Borneo is a great place to travel solo as a woman on the road

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·         Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)

U.S. citizens in Brunei should be vigilant regarding their personal security, maintain a low profile, vary times and routes during their daily routines, and report any suspicious activity to the local police and to the U.S. Embassy.

For more information, see our Terrorism page.  

Crime:  Most crimes that occur in Brunei are non-violent crimes of opportunity, including residential burglaries and vehicle break-ins.

· While in Brunei, you can generally avoid becoming a victim of a crime of opportunity by practicing good security awareness.  For example, secure your valuables (remove them from plain view), avoid secluded locations, properly secure your residence and vehicle, and do not travel alone late at night. 

· Crime in Brunei peaks in July and December, due to the holidays and schools being out of session. 

International Financial Scams:  See the  Department of State  and the  FBI  pages for information.

Victims of Crime:

· U.S. citizen victims of crime should report crimes to the local police at 993 and contact the U.S. Embassy at (673) 238-7500 Monday – Thursday from 7:30 a.m. to 5:15 p.m., Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. or (673) 873-0691 (24 hours). 

· Remember that local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting the crime.

See our webpage on  help for U.S. victims of crime overseas .

·        help you find appropriate medical care

·        assist you in reporting a crime to the police

·        contact relatives or friends with your written consent

·        explain the local criminal justice process in general terms

·        provide a list of local attorneys

·        provide our information on  victim’s compensation programs in the U.S.

·        provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution

·        help you find accommodation and arrange flights home

·        replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence:  U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence may contact the Embassy for assistance.

Tourism:  The tourism industry is generally regulated and rules on best practices and safety inspections are regularly enforced. Hazardous areas/activities are identified with appropriate signage and professional staff is typically on hand in support of organized activities. In the event of an injury, appropriate medical treatment is widely available throughout the country. In remote areas, it may take more time for first responders and medical professionals to respond, stabilize a patient, and provide life-saving assistance. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more  information on insurance providers for overseas coverage .

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties:  You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned.  Individuals establishing a business or practicing a profession that requires additional permits or licensing should seek information from the competent local authorities, prior to practicing or operating a business.

Brunei’s civil penal code and Sharia Penal Code (commonly known as “the sharia law”) operate in parallel, and both include provisions for corporal and capital punishment. 

· Criminal penalties for some offenses are harsher than in the United States, including for some acts that are not crimes in the United States.  Under the Sharia Penal Code judicial procedures and punishments include, for certain offenses and under certain evidentiary circumstances, amputation of hands or feet and death by stoning. The Sharia Penal Code applies regardless of an individual’s religion or nationality, although some sections of the law have specific applicability to Muslims.

· Brunei adheres to conservative Islamic social values, and U.S. citizens are advised to learn and respect local customs and traditions. You should consult a guidebook or other travel information on Brunei for more information about respecting local cultural norms.

· Any public criticism of the Sultan or other members of the royal family, Sharia Penal Code, or Islam is illegal and punishable under Bruneian law.

· Under Brunei’s Sharia Penal Code, it is also an offense to consume any food, drink, or tobacco in public during the fasting hours of Ramadan.

· Gambling is illegal in Brunei.

· Prostitution and pornography are illegal and can result in harsh punishments.

· Non-Muslims may be arrested for khalwat (close proximity between the sexes) under the Sharia Penal Code provided that the other accused party is Muslim.  Khalwat may include activities from holding hands or public displays of affection to sexual activity.  Foreigners, including U.S. citizens, are subject to khalwat and zina (fornication or adultery).

· Extramarital sexual relations between a Muslim and non-Muslim are considered a crime in Brunei and may lead to severe punishment.

· Alcohol cannot be purchased legally in Brunei.  However, two liters of spirits/wine and 12 cans of beer (one can=330ml) may be imported by non-Muslim adults for personal consumption in private.

· Importation of firearms and ammunition is prohibited.  The illegal possession, use, distribution, and/or sale of firearms, ammunition, and/or explosives may carry severe penalties, including the death penalty.

· Illegal possession, use, distribution, and/or sale of drugs may carry severe penalties, including the possibility of the death penalty.

· Both medical and recreational use of marijuana is illegal in Brunei.  Drug use/possession may carry severe penalties.

· Visit the Brunei  Royal Customs and Excise Department’s  website for further information about Brunei’s Customs laws.

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law.  For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website.

Arrest Notification:  If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately.  See our  webpage  on arrests and detentions for further information.

· The Royal Brunei Police Force is generally professional and courteous.  Most officers speak English but some, especially from the reserve units, have limited-to-no English-speaking capability.

· You should carry a copy of your passport with you as you will need to produce proof of your identity should an incident occur.

Dual Nationality:  Brunei does not recognize or permit dual nationality. Brunei nationals are expected to enter and exit the country on their Brunei passports.  Should Bruneian authorities learn that a person is a dual national, they may require immediate renunciation of the citizenship of either the other nation or Brunei.

Customs Regulations:  Bruneian customs authorities enforce strict import/export regulations.  Contact the  Embassy of Brunei  in Washington, DC, for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods: Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws. You may also pay fines or have to give them up if you bring them back to the United States. See the U.S. Department of Justice website for more information.

Faith-Based Travelers:  See the following webpages for details:

·        Faith-Based Travel Information

·        International Religious Freedom Report  – see country reports

·        Human Rights Report  – see country reports

·        Hajj Fact Sheet for Travelers

·        Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad   

LGBTQI+ Travelers:  Same-sex acts are criminalized in Brunei under Civil Law and also under the Sharia Penal Code.

· Possible penalties for same-sex acts under the Sharia Penal Code include fines, imprisonment, caning, and death by stoning.

· Under the civil penal code, possible punishments include a fine and up to 10 years in prison.

· Further information may be available from the  Embassy of Brunei Darussalam in Washington , DC or by contacting an attorney in Brunei.

See our LGBTQI+ Travel Information page and section 6 of our Human Rights report for further details.

Travelers with Disabilities:  The law in Brunei prohibits discrimination against persons with physical, sensory, intellectual or mental disabilities, and the law is enforced. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is as prevalent as in the United States. However, there are no specific laws governing accessibility. While in Brunei, individuals with disabilities may find accessibility and accommodation very different from in the United States.

· Wheelchair ramps may not be available on all sidewalks, which often have very deep and wide gutters that may not be covered.

· Buildings may not always have wheelchair-accessible doorways or elevators.

· Crosswalks, elevators, and buildings do not generally have signage or warnings for the visually or hearing impaired.

Students:  See our  Students Abroad  page and  FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers:  See our travel tips for  Women Travelers .

Ambulance services are widely available.

COVID-19 Testing:

· If you need a COVID-19 RT-PCR or ART test, review the  Brunei Ministry of Health approved RT-PCR and ART Certification Center .

· For more information, contact Brunei’s Health Advice Line 148 (within working hours), or email  [email protected] .

COVID-19 Vaccines:

· The COVID-19 vaccine will be provided free of charge to citizens and residents residing in Brunei Darussalam.  Visit the  website of the Brunei Ministry of Health  for information on the Brunei Darussalam Vaccination Strategy.

·        Visit the FDA's website to learn more about  FDA-approved vaccines  in the United States.

There is adequate care for basic medical conditions in Brunei; however, for certain elective surgery or complicated care the best medical care in the region is obtained in Singapore or Bangkok.

The Department of State does not pay medical bills .  Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas.  Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance.

·        Brunei has a number of public hospitals and clinics.

·        Further information about health care facilities in Brunei can be found on the U.S. Embassy  website .

·        Medication and prescriptions are readily available but may not be the same brands as those found in the United States.

Medical Insurance:  Most private care providers in Brunei accept major credit cards or cash payments, and some may accept local bank transfers.  Public care providers only accept cash payments.  Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas.  See our webpage for more  information on insurance providers for overseas coverage .  Visit the  U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  for more information on types of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas.

We strongly recommend  supplemental insurance  to cover medical evacuation. 

Medication/Prescriptions:

If traveling with prescription medication, check with the  Embassy of Brunei  in Washington, DC, to ensure the medication is legal in Brunei. 

Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging with your doctor’s prescription. 

Marijuana for medical use, even with a prescription, is not legal in Brunei.

Vaccinations:  Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations recommended  by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Further health information:

·        World Health Organization

·        U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Air Quality: Visit AirNow Department of State for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates.

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety:  Brunei has an extensive network of roads comparable to those in most western countries, and they are well maintained.

· Traffic moves on the left side of the road.

· Holders of a foreign driver’s license are permitted to drive in Brunei Darussalam for 90 days only.

· For longer stays, a foreign driver’s license must be endorsed to a Brunei driver’s license, available at any  Land Transport Department office.

· Drivers must always obey traffic rules and should take extra caution when approaching traffic signals.

· The Royal Brunei Police Force routinely sets up checkpoints and traffic stops, particularly at night, for license and registration checks, sobriety assessments, and contraband searches.

· If you are stopped by police, you will need to show your identification card, vehicle registration, and insurance card.

Traffic Laws:  

Review the Brunei  Land Transport Department  office website for information.

Public Transportation:

· There are six bus routes servicing the Bandar Seri Begawan area.  Normal operating hours are from 6:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. daily. Bus fares start from B$1.00.  Buses heading to other towns in Brunei such as Tutong, Kuala Belait, and Seria depart from the bus stops located at Jalan Kianggeh (opposite the Chinese temple) and Jalan McArthur (along waterfront) in Bandar Seri Begawan.

· Taxis can be found at the airport, hotels, shopping centers, and the central bus station in Bandar Seri Begawan and are metered. It is recommended that visitors use licensed, metered taxis or car services provided by hotels in Brunei. Car services through ridesharing apps have gained popularity both for convenience and fare transparency.

·        See our  Road Safety page  for more information. 

·        Visit the website of  Brunei Land Transport Department  and national authority responsible for road safety.

Aviation Safety Oversight:   As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Brunei, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Brunei’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Maritime Travel:   Mariners planning travel to Brunei should check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts . Information may also be posted to the  U.S. Coast Guard homeport website  and the  NGA broadcast warnings website.

For additional travel information

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  • See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
  • Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
  • See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

 For additional IPCA-related information, please see  the International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act (ICAPRA)  report.

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Brunei Darussalam

Latest update.

Exercise normal safety precautions in Brunei.

Brunei Darussalam map September 2023

Brunei Darussalam (PDF 679.95 KB)

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Local emergency contacts

Fire and rescue services, medical emergencies.

Call 993 or contact local police.

Advice levels

Exercise normal safety precautions in Brunei.

  • Serious crime is rare in Brunei. Petty crime such as theft and burglary does occur. Keep your valuables secure. Lock your accommodation, even when you're inside.
  • Heavy rain, thunderstorms, and lightning strikes are common throughout the year. Incidents of objects and people being struck by lightning have occurred.
  • Weather conditions can change quickly and leave you stranded or injured, especially at sea or in a remote area. If you're sailing, hiking, or in a remote area, be prepared and take all the necessary precautions that qualified personnel and local authorities recommend.  
  • Crocodiles are common in Brunei, and crocodile attacks have occurred along the rivers. Use caution when around water sources and follow the advice of local authorities. 
  • Stray dogs are common. Don't approach or touch dogs and be mindful of dogs when walking or exercising. Although there have been no official rabies cases in Brunei recently, cases have been reported recently in Malaysia close to the border with Brunei. See a doctor immediately if an animal scratches or bites you.

Full travel advice:  Safety

  • Insect-borne diseases occur. Make sure your accommodation is insect-proof. Use insect repellent. Get vaccinated before you travel.
  • HIV/AIDS is a risk. Take precautions if you engage in high-risk activities.
  • Foodborne, waterborne and other infectious diseases include hepatitis, hand, foot and mouth disease (HFMD) and tuberculosis. Avoid raw and undercooked foods.
  • Local authorities may issue Red Tide warnings when red algae reach dangerous levels. These include warnings about swimming in certain areas or eating certain types of seafood. Check local media for Red Tide alerts.

Full travel advice:  Health

  • Brunei's Infectious Disease Act includes penalties for various offences relating to controlling and preventing COVID-19. You must wear a mask when entering a hospital or medical clinic or attending an event where the organiser has directed participants to wear masks.
  • Brunei is a Muslim country and has strict religious laws. These include laws around fasting during Ramadan, preaching without government permission, and Muslim religious observance. Know and follow these laws.
  • Brunei's Sharia (Syariah) Penal Code took full effect in April 2019. It applies to everyone, including foreigners and non-Muslims. Some crimes, including blasphemy, sodomy and adultery, attract the death penalty under sharia law. Understand the law before you travel.
  • Selling alcohol and consuming alcohol in public is against the law. Smoking is illegal in most public places. It's also illegal to import alcohol and tobacco products above legal limits. If you import alcohol, keep the paperwork to prove it's legal. Check with the  Brunei Customs and Excise Department  before bringing alcohol or tobacco into Brunei.
  • Don't use or carry illegal drugs. Some drug offences have mandatory death penalty sentences. Other penalties include long prison sentences or physical punishment.

Full travel advice:  Local laws

  • To enter Brunei, you'll need a visa. In some cases you may be able to obtain and pay for a visa on arrival. Entry and exit conditions can change at short notice. You should contact the nearest high commission or consulate of Brunei for the latest details.
  • You're required to complete an E-Arrival Card online before arriving in and departing Brunei. This includes air, land and sea routes. If you're transiting, you will not be required to complete an E-Arrival Card. 
  • You no longer require COVID-19 insurance to enter Brunei, but this is strongly encouraged.

Full travel advice:  Travel

Local contacts

  • The  Consular Services Charter  details what the Australian Government can and can't do to help you overseas.
  • For consular help, contact the  Australian High Commission in Bandar Seri Begawan .
  • To stay up to date with local information, follow the High Commission's social media accounts.

Full travel advice:  Local contacts

Full advice

Serious crime is rare.

Travellers are occasionally the victims of petty crime, such as theft, burglary, and vehicle break-ins.

To protect yourself from crime:

  • leave valuables in a secure location
  • watch your personal belongings
  • always lock doors and windows at your accommodation

Cyber security

You may be at risk of cyber-based threats during overseas travel to any country. Digital identity theft is a growing concern. Your devices and personal data can be compromised, especially if you're connecting to Wi-Fi, using or connecting to shared or public computers, or to Bluetooth. 

Social media can also be risky in destinations where there are social or political tensions or laws that may seem unreasonable by Australian standards. Travellers have been arrested for things they have said on social media. Don't comment on local or political events on your social media. 

More information:  

  • Cyber security when travelling overseas  

Civil unrest and political tension

Demonstrations and protests.

Civil unrest is rare.

Public protests and events that draw large groups of people can turn violent.

To protect yourself from possible violence:

  • avoid protests and demonstrations
  • follow the advice of local authorities

More information:

  • Demonstrations and civil unrest

Terrorism is a threat worldwide.

Climate and natural disasters

Brunei experiences heavy rain, thunderstorms, and lightning strikes throughout the year. Incidents of objects and people being struck by lightning have occurred.

The wet seasons are September to January and May to July. Flooding and mudslides are common during these times.

Severe weather  can affect essential services, such as power.

If a  natural disaster  occurs:

  • secure your passport in a safe, waterproof location
  • monitor local media and other sources such as the  Global Disaster Alert and Coordination System
  • keep in contact with friends and family

Wildlife and outdoor activities

Brunei is home to saltwater crocodiles. They live along the Brunei River and beaches. People fishing on the riverbank have been attacked and killed by crocodiles.

There are venomous snakes in Brunei. Keep your distance if you encounter a snake outdoors. If a snake is found indoors or in a confined space, call Fire and Rescue Services on 995, who also capture and remove crocodiles.  

Stray dogs are common. Don't approach or touch dogs. Be mindful of dogs when walking or exercising.

Although there have been no official rabies cases in Brunei recently, cases have been reported recently in Malaysia close to the border with Brunei. Rabies is fatal if you don't get vaccinated or don't get medical treatment quickly. See a doctor immediately if a dog, monkey or other animal scratches or bites you.  

Outdoors Activities

Trekking in the jungle and parks can range from beginner-level to more advanced options. Trekkers have been known to go missing. Inform family and friends before your trek and take a phone and sufficient supplies. 

Avoid swimming in rivers, wear a life vest when on boats and adhere to local advice when near a water source, as crocodiles in Brunei have been known to attack people. 

Local beach rescue services may not be of the same standard as in Australia.

Travel insurance

Get comprehensive  travel insurance  before you leave. 

Your policy needs to cover all overseas medical costs, including medical evacuation. The Australian Government won’t pay for these costs.

If you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel. This applies to everyone, no matter how healthy and fit you are.

If you're not insured, you may have to pay many thousands of dollars up-front for medical care.

  • what activities and care your policy covers
  • that your insurance covers you for the whole time you’ll be away

Physical and mental health

Consider your physical and mental health before you travel, especially if you have an existing medical condition. 

See your doctor or travel clinic to:

  • have a basic health check-up
  • ask if your travel plans may affect your health
  • plan any vaccinations you need

Do this at least 8 weeks before you leave.

If you have immediate concerns for your welfare, or the welfare of another Australian, call the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 6261 3305 or contact your  nearest Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate  to discuss counselling hotlines and services available in your location.

  • General health advice
  • Healthy holiday tips  (Healthdirect Australia)

Medications

Not all medication available over the counter or by prescription in Australia is available in other countries. Some may even be considered illegal or a controlled substance, even if prescribed by an Australian doctor.

If you plan to bring medication, check if it's legal in Brunei. Take enough legal medication for your trip.

Carry a copy of your prescription and a letter from your doctor stating:

  • what the medication is
  • the required dosage
  • that it's for personal use

Health risks

Insect-borne diseases.

Insect-borne diseases occur, including:

  • Japanese encephalitis

To protect yourself from disease:

  • make sure your accommodation is insect-proof
  • use insect repellent
  • wear long, loose, light-coloured clothing

We recommend you get vaccinated against Japanese encephalitis if you travel to rural areas. Seek medical advice if you have a fever, muscle pain, rash or severe headache.

HIV/AIDS  is a risk in Brunei. 

Take precautions if you engage in activities that expose you to the risk of infection.

Other health risks

Waterborne, foodborne and other infectious diseases are common, including:

  • hand, foot and mouth disease (HFMD)
  • tuberculosis

Severe outbreaks sometimes occur.

Avoid raw and undercooked food, such as salads.

Seek medical advice if you have a fever or diarrhoea.

  • Infectious diseases

Red algae sometimes reaches dangerous levels in coastal waters. Local authorities may issue red tide warnings about:

  • swimming in certain areas
  • eating certain types of seafood

Local authorities print warnings about red algae in local newspapers, including in English-language publications.

If there's a red tide alert, follow local warnings. This algal bloom can cause paralytic shellfish poisoning. Avoid shellfish and seafood because they may be affected.

Medical care

Medical facilities.

Medical facilities in Brunei's public hospitals are of reasonable quality.

Private hospital facilities are of a high standard.

If you have severe symptoms of COVID-19 you may be treated at a dedicated COVID-19 hospital.

If you become seriously ill or injured, you may need to be moved to Australia or Singapore. Medical evacuation can be very expensive.

You're subject to all local laws and penalties, including those that may appear harsh by Australian standards. Research local laws before travelling.

If you're arrested or jailed, the Australian Government will do what it can to help you under our  Consular Services Charter . But we can't get you out of trouble or out of jail.

In Brunei, it's illegal to:

  • eat, drink or smoke in public places between sunrise and sunset during  Ramadan
  • persuade a Muslim to neglect their religious duties
  • preach religions other than Islam, or preach Islam without permission from the government
  • fail to attend Friday prayers if you are an adult male Muslim
  • teach Islamic doctrine outside your own home or to anyone outside your household, without permission

It's also illegal to:

  • conduct same-sex sexual activity
  • possess pornographic material
  • carry firearms or related items, including ammunition and empty cartridge shells
  • sell alcohol
  • import alcohol or tobacco products above legal limits

If you import alcohol, keep documents to prove you did so legally.

  • Advice for LGBTI people
  • Royal Customs and Excise Department

It's illegal to smoke in:

  • government buildings
  • recreational and educational centres
  • public transport
  • restaurants
  • other specified public places

Photography

It's illegal to photograph:

  • government or military infrastructure or equipment
  • places used by security forces
  • communications infrastructure
  • civil infrastructure
  • any other prohibited places or areas in the vicinity of such places

Brunei’s Sharia (Syariah) Penal Code came fully into effect from April 2019.

Sharia law applies to:

  • Muslims and
  • non-Muslims

whether resident Bruneians or foreigners. It applies even when transiting on Brunei-registered aircraft and vessels.

Non-Muslims may be arrested for being in close proximity with a Muslim of the opposite sex under the Sharia Penal Code – an offence known as khalwat .

Common law and courts will continue to operate in parallel with the Sharia Penal Code and courts.

Serious crimes can attract:

  • the death penalty
  • physical punishment
  • imprisonment

Crimes that attract the death penalty include:

  • Syariah Penal Code (Brunei Attorney-General's Chambers)

Some drug offences carry a mandatory death penalty. Other penalties include long prison sentences and physical punishment.

  • Carrying or using drugs

Australian laws

Some Australian criminal laws still apply when you’re overseas. If you break these laws, you may face prosecution in Australia.

  • Staying within the law and respecting customs

Dual citizenship

Brunei doesn't recognise  dual nationality .

Australians entering with a Bruneian passport will be treated as Bruneian by local authorities.

Enter on an Australian passport to ensure access to Australian consular services.

Local customs

Dress and behaviour standards are conservative. Take care not to offend.

If in doubt, seek local advice.

Be cautious when making comments about local issues, particularly those relating to the royal family. You could cause offence or even attract legal consequences.

The Islamic holy month of Ramadan is observed in Brunei. Respect religious and cultural customs and laws at this time.

During Ramadan, eating, drinking and smoking may be illegal in public during the day. If you're not fasting, avoid these activities around people who are. Seek local advice to avoid offence.

Explore our Ramadan page to learn more, including dates for Ramadan.

Visas and border measures

Every country or territory decides who can enter or leave through its borders. For specific information about the evidence you'll need to enter a foreign destination, check with the nearest embassy, consulate or immigration department of the destination you're entering. 

You need a visa to travel to Brunei. Visas and other entry and exit conditions can change at short notice. Contact the nearest Brunei High Commission or Brunei Ministry of Foreign Affairs for details about visas, currency, customs, and quarantine rules.

Immigration regulations are strictly enforced and overstaying can attract physical punishments.

Check the entry stamp in your passport to confirm how long you can stay.

Monitor your immigration status and visa expiry date.

  • Brunei Department of Immigration and National Registration
  • Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Border measures

You must have the following before boarding your flight:

  • a valid air ticket
  • a valid visa (for visa-required passport holders).
  • a completed E-Arrival Card

You're required to complete an E-Arrival Card online before arriving in and departing Brunei. This includes air, land and sea routes. Transit passengers who do not pass through Brunei's immigration control posts will not be required to complete an E-Arrival Card. Refer to Brunei's  Immigration and National Registration System Portal  for more information.

Children under 18 do not need to be fully vaccinated to enter or transit through Brunei.

Other formalities

If you wish to cross Brunei's land or sea borders, you must apply online through the  Exit and Entry System (EES) . There is a service fee of $BND 3.00.

Some countries won’t let you enter unless your passport is valid for 6 months after you plan to leave that country. This can apply even if you’re just transiting or stopping over.

Some foreign governments and airlines apply the rule inconsistently. Travellers can receive conflicting advice from different sources.

You can end up stranded if your passport is not valid for more than 6 months.

The Australian Government does not set these rules. Check your passport’s expiry date before you travel. If you’re not sure it’ll be valid for long enough, consider getting  a new passport .

Check that your passport has at least 6 blank pages back-to-back, as recommended by Brunei authorities.

Lost or stolen passport

Your passport is a valuable document. It's attractive to people who may try to use your identity to commit crimes.

Some people may try to trick you into giving them your passport. Always keep it in a safe place.

If your passport is lost or stolen, tell the Australian Government as soon as possible:

  • In Australia, contact  the Australian Passport Information Service .
  • If you’re overseas, contact the nearest  Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate .

Passport with 'X' gender identifier 

Although Australian passports comply with international standards for sex and gender, we can't guarantee that a passport showing 'X' in the sex field will be accepted for entry or transit by another country. Contact the nearest  embassy, high commission or consulate of your destination  before you arrive at the border to confirm if authorities will accept passports with 'X' gender markers. 

  • LGBTI travellers  

The local currency is the Brunei Dollar ($BND). You can also use Singapore dollars ($SGD). They have the same value as the BND.

You can use credit cards in some places.

Australian dollars can be changed at banks, hotels and authorised exchange bureaus.

Local travel

If you plan to visit Malaysia, including Sabah or Sarawak, read our  travel advice for Malaysia .

If you plan to visit Kalimantan, read our  travel advice for Indonesia .

Driving permit

To drive in Brunei for up to 1 year, you need both:

  • an Australian driver's licence
  • a valid international driving permit (IDP)

Driving without an IDP could void your travel and vehicle insurance.

You should get a local driver’s licence if you need to drive for longer than 1 year.

Road travel

Driving can be dangerous. It's common for drivers to:

  • drive through red lights
  • exceed the speed limit
  • not use seatbelts
  • drive without a licence or insurance

If you plan to drive:

  • check that your insurance policy covers driving
  • get to know the local traffic laws and practices
  • drive legally
  • avoid 'road rage'
  • don't react to other drivers

If you're involved in a road accident as a driver, don't leave the scene or move your vehicle until the police have arrived.

There are limits on the sale of diesel and petrol for vehicles not registered in Brunei.

  • Driving or riding

Motorcycles

Check whether your insurance policy covers you when using a motorbike, quad bike or similar vehicle.

Always wear a helmet.

Only use registered taxis and authorised limousines. You can arrange them:

  • through your hotel
  • at the Brunei International Airport
  • through DART Taxi online

Public transport

A very limited public bus service operates throughout Brunei.  For the main Brunei-Muara and Kuala Belait districts the services operate between 6am and 8pm.

The bus service is often unreliable.

  • Transport and getting around safely

International cruise lines stop over in Brunei.

  • Going on a cruise

DFAT doesn't provide information on the safety of individual commercial airlines or flight paths.

Check  Brunei's air safety profile  with the Aviation Safety Network.

Emergencies

Depending on what you need, contact your:

  • family and friends
  • travel agent
  • insurance provider

Always get a police report when reporting a crime.

Your insurer should have a 24-hour emergency number.

Consular contacts

Read the  Consular Services Charter  for what the Australian Government can and can't do to help you overseas.

For consular assistance, contact the Australian High Commission in Bandar Seri Begawan.

Australian High Commission, Bandar Seri Begawan

Level 6, Dar Takaful IBB Utama building Jalan Pemancha Bandar Seri Begawan BS 8711 Brunei Darussalam Phone: (+673) 222 9435 Fax: (+673) 222 1652 Email:  [email protected] Website:  bruneidarussalam.embassy.gov.au Facebook:  Australia in Brunei Darussalam

Twitter:  @AusHCBrunei  

Check the Australian High Commission website for details about opening hours and any temporary closures.

24-hour Consular Emergency Centre

In a consular emergency, if you can’t contact an embassy, call the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on:

  • +61 2 6261 3305 from overseas
  • 1300 555 135 in Australia

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Trailblazing travellers: 3 women who turned their adventures into travel experiences

SINGAPORE – Ahead of International Women’s Day on March 8, The Straits Times spotlights three trailblazing women who have parlayed their globe-trotting adventures into travel experiences.

In November 2008, Ms Odele Seah embarked on her first solo trip to Europe and North America after graduating from polytechnic.

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(Clockwise from top left) Deborah Ives diving in Thailand and at the Taj Mahal, Agra, northern India; Kay Johnson on Heissa Island, Aswan, Egypt; Joanna Moorhead in Venice; Kay Johnson in Petra, Jordan; Alison Henri and Monet’s Waterlilies at l’Orangerie, Paris

Long lunches, casual friendships, no one to worry about: solo holidays are brilliant for older women like me

I’ve been travelling alone for 15 years – and loving it. Now that others are catching up, here’s how to make the most of all that me time

I t’s a midweek morning and I’ve just woken up in a hotel room in Madrid on the first day of a minibreak. The day stretches deliciously ahead: shall I go first to the Prado, or the Reina Sofía museum? Shall I have brunch and a late-afternoon main meal, or tapas here and there? The Gran Via is just up the street; I fancy a wander around the shops, but I’ll probably leave that till later in the day.

The fact is, I can do exactly what I want, when I want, because I’m holidaying alone. Like an increasing number of older women in the UK and across the world (I’m 61), I’ve discovered the huge benefits solo travel has to offer. It helps me to recharge my batteries, it’s empowering and it doesn’t have to be horribly expensive (I generally travel off-season and midweek). It takes me out of my comfort zone in just the right way, allowing me to have the experiences, the food and the fun that I want.

Like many women who travel alone, I have a partner, but his life is a lot less flexible than mine and he doesn’t always want the kinds of breaks I do. Phocuswright, a US market research firm, reports that there was a 46% increase last year in people over 55 travelling without their significant other – and most were women. In the UK, the Association of Travel Agents says solo travel is up from 6% of trips in 2011 to 16% in 2023.

Deborah Ives, who works in international marketing, is not surprised. Fourteen years ago, shortly before her 50th birthday, Ives split from her partner and decided to go on her own to Borneo, a trip they had booked together. “I’d loved planning it and thought: sod this, I’m not going to let it stop me going,” she says. “I remember feeling absolutely petrified as I was about to board my flight at Heathrow. But I had the most amazing time. It gave me a real sense of adventure and freedom. I remember days when I thought: no one knows where I am right now. It felt exhilarating.”

Kay Johnson watching the sunset on Mount Sinai after an overnight hike in 2020.

Back home, telling her friends about the trip, she sensed some were keen to try solo travel, but had worries and wanted advice. In response, she set up a Facebook group called Solo in Style. “For a long time, it was me, my sister and a few friends and we’d post something occasionally,” she says. She half expected the group to fold during the pandemic, but they kept it going with virtual journeys. Then, as the world started to reopen, the group’s membership shot up. “We’ve now got 485,000 members, with about 15,000 joining a month,” she says. “About 60% are from North America; most of the rest are from the UK, Australia and New Zealand. There are women in their 50s into their 80s in the group.”

One is Kay Johnson, 58, a nutritionist, who has enjoyed solo travel since she hitchhiked around the UK in her teens. When we speak, she is enjoying the sunshine in a park in Málaga. She got back into solo travel after her dog died in 2020. “I was devastated – it was the end of November and I thought: I need a break,” she says. “I booked to go to Egypt and, from the moment I got off the plane, I found this incredible energy. There’s a kind of excitement you lose as an adult that I’ve regained – I go somewhere and think to myself: I’m on my own and this is a big adventure.”

Alison Henri, 57, lives in Surrey and works in IT. She finds travelling alone easier than with friends. “Go in a group and you’ll always be waiting around for someone, or people can’t decide on what they all want to do. It’s much easier to go alone – I can spend as much time as I want in a museum.”

For me, as for others who do it, solo travel is partly about balance. I have four (now adult) children and a lot of my life revolves around them and their partners: it’s hectic and sometimes a bit chaotic. There are times in Spain or Italy when I’m in a restaurant and I look across and see a parent, or parents, juggling two, three or four young children, waiting for that moment of calm when they can eat their pasta or have their glass of wine. Twenty years ago, that was me; the fact that I can now sit and sip my Campari spritz unencumbered by anyone else feels like a reimbursement. It’s a freedom I didn’t imagine I would ever taste again, which makes it all the more precious.

Deborah Ives in Copacabana, Brazil, in 2016.

Netta Weinstein, a professor of psychology and clinical language sciences at the University of Reading, is researching the benefits of solitude, which she believes have been occluded by understandable worries about the dangers of loneliness . In a recent study, she found that there is a big difference between solitude that is imposed and solitude that is chosen. “Having space gives us time to connect with ourselves, and connecting with ourselves benefits our wellbeing,” she says. “But it’s an area we know very little about – most psychological research has looked at how we relate to others.”

The more she examined it, the more Weinstein discovered the rich benefits of time spent alone by choice. “There are patterns in time alone that researchers are only beginning to tap into,” she says. One of the main points seems to be the sense of autonomy that solitude can bring – and solo travel gives plenty of scope for that. “What we found was that, on any given day when people felt autonomous and competent in solitude, they feel better on that day.”

For aficionados like me, Ives, Johnson and Henri, it’s clear that the good aspects of solo travel outweigh the difficulties, but for many who have yet to try it, doubts simmer. One of the things I’m most often asked is how I cope with eating alone. “That can be difficult,” says Ives. “Then you look around the restaurant and see couples who aren’t talking to one another – what’s the difference? And there are good ways of coping: I’d choose a long, lazy lunch over dinner on my own – lunch is definitely easier.”

I concur, although I prefer lunches on holiday anyway, whether alone or with others, because it feels so decadent to linger over a midday meal and that is what holidays are all about. I’m also picky about where I sit. I wouldn’t, for example, take a table on my own in the middle of a crowded restaurant, especially if the other diners were all in couples or groups. I tend to go for a table at the edge of the room; if there isn’t one I like the look of, I move on. When I want a real treat, I go to a restaurant with live music: I’ve had some of my best solo evenings in jazz bars. In Madrid, I headed for a restaurant with live flamenco – it was magical.

Joanna Moorhead in Lisbon, in 2022.

For me, eating alone hasn’t been much of an issue in the 15 or so years I’ve been travelling solo, which I put down to my grandmother, who I now realise was my No 1 role model. Widowed in her 50s, Granny sold the family home and was fortunate enough to make enough money that she could move into a hotel. She lived there, and in other hotels, for the next two decades. I spent a lot of my childhood and adolescence with her; it was the 70s and she was stunning in her geometric outfits, high boots and ponchos. The idea that there was anything sad, second best or strange about being like her had no traction in my world: she was the coolest person in the restaurant every time, self‑contained and happy to be in her own space.

A question Ives says often comes up on her Facebook posts is: which places are easiest for solo travel? “Language probably comes into it. I think a lot of people start with a solo holiday in the UK and move on to a trip abroad,” she says. “Sri Lanka is one of my all-time favourite places and Portugal is big now.”

But the No 1 destination, she says, is the country I think I visit alone more than any other: Italy. Florence is probably the easiest city I’ve spent time in alone: it’s made for wandering and people-watching from cafes. Plus, in the busy art galleries, the Uffizi and the Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze, being alone is a distinct advantage – there is no one to get separated from amid the crowds.

Alison Henri on the Costa del Sol, Spain, in 2022.

Italian cities are also easy places to strike up a conversation with the people at the next table, who are often British or American, so language isn’t a barrier. I’ve had lovely evenings with people I only met because they were sitting nearby. Never worry about initiating a chat, because it’s always clear whether others want to talk or not. And, of course, starting out alone doesn’t mean you will end up alone: like my daughter, who is now backpacking around South America, I meet people all the time on my travels. Sometimes, my husband joins me for a few days if he can get the time off.

So, what has changed to make solo travel so attractive to women? For many of us, including Henri, it grew from a realisation that we enjoyed travelling alone for work. “I work in IT and was doing a lot of business travel – Paris and US cities – and that gave me a real flavour for it,” she says. “I started tacking holidays on to the beginning and end of work trips and I loved that time.” That is my story, too. Journalism took me to cities in Europe and other parts of the world; I added a few days to explore and realised I enjoyed these holidays as much as any others.

It’s also, I think and hope, about older women now having more autonomy and financial independence than our mothers did. If we have a partner who can’t or won’t come along, we’ll just do it anyway. “I meet far more older women than older men going it alone when I’m on my travels,” says Johnson. Ives agrees: “These days, older women tend to have a bigger disposable income than they had in the past and I think the growth in solo travel is partly because of lockdown. Now that we can do it again, we’re thinking: if not now, when?”

Tips for solo journeys

If you don’t want to arrive at an airport without being met, book a taxi, so that someone is waiting with your name when you get off the plane.

In restaurants, befriend the waiting staff. It’s fun to have someone to chat to, plus they will make sure you are not ignored and give you advice on what to try from the menu.

Accommodation can be expensive if you are alone in a double room, so look for single rooms, which even in more expensive hotels can be good value. Or try a hostel – many have single rooms.

In Italy, especially, try staying in a convent – I’ve stayed in lots in Rome, Florence and Venice. They tend to be central and have plenty of single rooms. If they have a curfew, it’s usually not before 11pm.

Smaller, family-run hotels can be easier than anonymous, corporate places – you are more likely to make friendly connections with the owners and staff.

Have a project, so your trip has a focus: it could be some art you want to see, an ancestor’s grave you want to find, or a trip to a vineyard to try wine you have always enjoyed.

Keep a diary – make voice notes if you don’t like writing – so you can remember what you did and how you felt once you are home.

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