Kunene, Namibia

Spotlight On Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp : Where The Desert Meets The Sea

Our Collective

Melissa Siebert

Shipwrecks and whale skeletons are not your average safari attractions. But then there’s nothing average about Wilderness Safaris’ Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp , a fly-in destination in northern Namibia that’s otherworldly and unforgettable.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

Set amidst rust-coloured crags in the Namib Desert’s famed Kaokoveld , the camp’s pale olive luxury tents peak like whitecaps on an ocean of sand. The landscape may seem empty at first, but soon reveals itself to be full of life, home to desert-adapted elephant and lion, giraffe, leopard, cheetah, hyaena, black rhino, black-backed jackal, oryx, a host of various birds, and many other creatures. Hoanib prides itself on its on-site research centre, where monitoring, tracking, and other studies of elephant, lion, and brown hyaena are ongoing – a source of enrichment for guests.

Morning and afternoon game drives explore the nearly always dry Hoanib riverbed, in the search for desert-adapted wildlife. Nature walks among the dunes introduce guests to some of the area’s smaller denizens, and to plants such as the ancient welwitschia, as well as to remnants of the Strandloper – beachcomber – way of life from centuries ago. Local birding yields many rewards, including raptor species and the occasional flamingo.

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The highlight of a stay at Hoanib, though, is the four-hour 4X4 drive to the coast, across the wild Hoanib River floodplain and rolling dunes to the frigid Atlantic, where the cold Benguela current collides with the warmer desert and generates the region’s famed fog. Passing through the Skeleton Coast National Park, stopping at an often wildlife-rich oasis en route, you reach the windswept shore. There awaits a fascinating and quaint museum celebrating the area’s fauna, flora and wrecks, as well as Cape fur seal colonies and bleached bones on an endlessly crashing shoreline – an eerily enchanting panorama.. Yours to explore before, weather permitting, a short flight takes you back to camp – offering a nearly infinite view of a landscape like no other.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

Wilderness Safaris’ Munya Maposa, Hoanib Skeleton Coast General Manager; Clement Lawrence, Sales and Marketing Manager, Wilderness Safaris Namibia and former Hoanib Skeleton Coast Manager and Guide; and Max Bezuidenhout, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Head Guide, share their appreciation of this exceptional place:

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

What makes Hoanib Skeleton Coast special? What are the activities/services offered at Hoanib, and what are the highlights of a stay there, the aspects that guests really seem to love?

(Clement) The camp is located in a rugged outlands bordering the Skeleton Coast National Park near the banks of the Hoanib River. Its location holds many secrets, including unexpected wildlife wandering along the riverbed. The best experience is the drive from the camp to the coast. It offers incredible changes of scenery, starting off with an almost eerie, foggy morning drive through the larger ana trees, spotting the odd giraffe or desert elephant. As the weather clears, you find yourself on the floodplains, where thick salt bushes prevail; there you might spot more rarely seen wildlife, like caracal or honey badger, if luck is on your side. A tea stop on a dune looking over the sand sea is the perfect break before you make it to the coast itself. Only once there can you understand the coast’s harshness; its rocky beaches and gusty winds feel like a different planet from where you started off that morning. Guests are spoilt with an amazing lunch and cold glass of wine on the beach, absorbing the welcome sunlight as the day warms up. To finish off the day we take guests on a short scenic flight back to camp, giving them a bird’s-eye view of what they’ve just experienced.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Munya) Hoanib is special because of the scenery that surrounds it. The mountains, the red sand dunes, the space. The Hoanib River area is rich in wildlife, which generally surprises guests who don’t expect to see so much within a desert – the elephant herds, desert lions, giraffe, hyaenas, foxes, and oryx, among others.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Lodge offers a coastal excursion that sets it apart from many other places. This involves a drive over the dunes to the Skeleton Coast, with a stop at an oasis en route, then a drive along the beach to see seal colonies and other sights, followed by a picnic lunch at the seaside, enjoying the ocean breeze. The trip ends with a scenic flight back to the camp, wowing guests with views of the dunes and the topography below, from a different perspective. For me what stands out from the trip is that one moment you are driving in the desert, and the next moment you are at the coast, where the desert meets the ocean! The excursion also is interesting historically: there’s a brief stop at a small museum exhibiting whale skeletons – one of the reasons it’s named the Skeleton Coast.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) Hoanib is a unique place, a beautiful, isolated landscape. What also makes Hoanib special is the wildlife – desert lions, elephants, hyaenas, Cape foxes, and other species move in and out of camp. The sand dunes on the way to the coast are gorgeous, hiding away two big oases in the middle of nowhere – hot spots for the desert animals and water birds like flamingoes. At the coast there’s the Cape fur seals, black-backed jackals, and hyaenas. Aside from the drive to the coast, we offer guided walks, game drives, rhino tracking if time allows, star gazing, amongst other activities.

What do YOU most love about Hoanib?

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Clement) I am in love with the weather there. Without the wind, there would be no desert. If you understand how the desert is formed, you would know that the desert breeze carries cool air. On the warmest days you can look over to the west and see the thin fog belt, a sign that the temperature is likely to cool down. Whilst sitting around the fire after dinner, you can feel the fog droplets forming and see the camp lights becoming brighter, lighting up the moisture.

(Munya) The weather – mornings and nights are very cool because of our proximity to the ocean. You almost forget that you are in a desert. I also love how well constructed the lodge is.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

What does the name ‘Hoanib’ mean?

(Munya) Hoanib means the ‘place of elephants’. It’s a Damara word and has a click at the beginning. It names the ephemeral river that periodically flows through the area. When the river isn’t running, desert elephants forage up and down the riverbed, hence the name.

(Clement) I once heard from an old Himba that Hoanib means ‘for all of us’ because in the old days the Hoanib was the one place where water was consistent and the people of the land all shared it together. He did not have Google, though. I think we should go with Munya on this one.

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Please talk about the wildlife at/around the camp…what are the most ‘desired’, ‘wow’ sightings/experiences?

(Max) Day and night we have wildlife drinking from the waterhole in front of camp. Game drives happen in the morning and afternoon, but often there’s quite a bit of action in camp. For instance, one evening after supper service when I was walking guests staying in Tents 3 and 4 to their rooms... We had just left the guests in Tent 4 and were on our way to Tent 3. There we found a big elephant bull eating from the tree in front of the room. What saved us was that about six metres away, I heard his stomach rumbling. I told the guests to freeze. The elephant must have heard me speaking, and moved off through the bush. Elephant eyes do not reflect in the darkness, so it’s difficult to spot them.

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Another close encounter was with lion. A new male lion called Munya had entered the Hoanib riverbed, and he was not accustomed to vehicles. I was on an afternoon game drive with a family of four, tracking two female lions who’d been frequenting the area. We were circling a salvadora bush when suddenly a huge male, this ‘new’ lion, charged us. He stopped within a metre of the vehicle, leaving a cloud of dust, and us speechless, and then departed.

(Munya) Elephants are the most common animals around the camp; giraffe, oryx, ostrich, and springbok are also widely present. Other less common sightings include zebra, leopard, and cheetah. Desert lions are on the resurgence as well, with two or three prides frequenting camp.

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One day we were jump starting a vehicle in front of my room. I was being assisted by the camp chef (Steven) and a guide (Moses). Moses brought another vehicle but forgot the jumper cables. So he went back and left Steven and me there. Whilst I was concentrating under the hood, Steven said, ‘Let’s get in the car, there are lions here!’ As I turned around I saw two lionesses and three cubs approaching. We both got in the car, and waited for them to pass by. Unfortunately, I did not have a camera on me, nor did Steven. The lions strolled past and the cubs playfully tagged along.

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Another time, during lockdown after dark, Moses heard jackals calling, and grabbed his camera because he thought the jackals had seen lions. He followed the sound to outside my room, and I heard him call my name. I quickly went outside. Moses pointed to the mountain behind my room. There we saw a leopard on the mountain – our first time ever seeing one in the area.

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(Clement) One memorable wildlife encounter for me was at our farewell gathering for Beauranzia, our food and beverage manager at the time. I cooked a wonderful potjie, if I say so myself, which we enjoyed around a fire. We sat quietly after the meal because we all ate too much. It was full moon and the perfect goodbye, as Dr Philip (‘Flip’) Stander told us incredible stories about his lion research in the desert. It was only when one of the guides got up to put his plate in the kitchen that we noticed the lioness walking past with her three cubs. Surprisingly, we all stayed somewhat calm and moved into the kitchen, but she was not a happy lady. Or so we thought. The lioness walked away from us to where her cubs had scrambled, a manager’s accommodation. She lay down on a slope where she could still see us.

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Dr Flip disappeared to his car to track where the second lioness from the pride was; it turned out that while we’d been eating, she’d quietly slipped past us and was now drinking at the waterhole. The cubs could not help themselves – smelling the fire (and my potjie) they walked straight towards it, sniffing everything along the way, ignoring their mother’s calls and gathering around the fire place. The ten of us hiding in the kitchen shoved our heads through the shade net of the door to get a better view of the cubs; it was too funny. Even more hilarious was that the moon was shining right on our faces, yet we pretended to be inconspicuous. Eventually the lioness wandered past and the cubs followed, with Dr Flip in the rear. You can see that the man knows lions better than people. We called it a night after that.

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Another time in camp it was 2 am, and Charlie, our resident elephant, had wandered over to a spot right next to my room, where he decided to pull on the water pipe coming from the tanks above. He broke it off easily, having an urge for a splash of water and knowing exactly where to find it. Charlie was not going to put the pipe back after he was finished, so I had to get out of bed and sneak quietly out of my room, around the back and up a massive hill to close the tanks – otherwise guests would have no water the next day. After closing the tap, I could see Charlie looking directly at me, but he couldn’t reach me because of the steep slope. It was then I found myself talking calmly to this elephant, begging him to please go and drink at the waterhole in front of camp, reminding him that we had built it for him. He had an aggressive stance but never made any noise.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

I suppose he was actually listening, or just hoped I would slip and roll down the slope. Eventually, Charlie shook his head and walked off. I thanked him but got no response. I walked down the slope, checking that he was gone before reconnecting the broken pipe. It was such a wet and muddy situation that by the time I got back to my room I was wide awake. This was where I declared that karma owes me one, big time; she always delivers in the desert. Shout out to Charlie for being such a good sport – I miss him terribly.

What are some of the key bird species that guests can expect to see?

(Clement) Endemics that can be found along the Hoanib River include Ruppell’s korhaan, and on the gravel plains we have the Benguela long-billed lark. In our warmer months the olive Madagascar bee-eater moves into the area. Along the Hoanib mouth, which holds a bit of water, we also have the odd flamingo visiting for a while before heading to the large Etosha Pan.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Munya) Hornbills, black harriers, peregrine falcons, francolins, and guinea fowl.

(Max) Ruppell’s korhaan, hornbills, pale-winged starlings, Cape turtle dove, grey go-away-bird, masked weaver, swallow-tailed bee-eaters, and so on.

How does the Hoanib experience compare to/differ from that of other WS camps in Namibia? Would you recommend that guests visit Hoanib plus other WS camps?

(Munya) Hoanib offers not only the desert experience but also the coastal experience. Temperatures aren’t as brutal there as in other parts of the desert because of its proximity to the ocean. Most of all, the wildlife there is wonderfully unexpected and diverse; other camps in Namibia do not have as much variety.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Clement) Hoanib’s location along the Skeleton Coast National Park tells its own story of how geology has allowed for the most interesting ecosystem to evolve and what adaptation each species uses to survive, fauna and flora alike. It offers perspective on what vast landscapes are all about, and gives chills down your spine when you notice how inhospitable it can be.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

What’s your favourite time of day in/around camp and why?

(Clement) Hands down, it has to be late afternoon. When the coastal breeze reaches inland the temperature noticeably drops and the light becomes so soft it’s almost tangible. Photography is off the charts at this time; you cannot believe what you are able to capture, even with only landscape through your lens. If a lone desert elephant happens to walk against the light with the dust blowing up behind him, it is just mesmerising.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Munya) Evenings or more specifically sundown, because this is the time elephants often converge at the waterhole. The temperatures are cool, a westerly breeze comes through, the setting sun gives off orange and reddish hues through the mountains. It is a magical, peaceful time of the day.

(Max) I love foggy mornings, they’re refreshing.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

And your favourite season there?

(Munya) For me it’s winter, when wildlife converges in the riverbed. Elephants often are seen digging there trying to get groundwater. Giraffes come closer to the camp and can be seen browsing nearby treetops. It is extremely cold at night; waking up is tough, because sleep is so good. Early mornings are spectacular because fog sits low in the camp. The sun battles to shine through; when it does, condensation droplets are a common sight at the foot of the tents.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Clement) Winter, just after the rains. It is when we witness the extremes of the desert. How strong the wind can be, how much fog can roll in from the coast, and how important this is to the ecosystem. As you follow the meandering dry riverbed early in the morning the visibility is limited. The only thing you might see, for instance, is the bold elephant track in the soft sand, which the guide has pointed out. How far did he walk last night and where is he going, you wonder. It’s still foggy, and later in the dunes you see one elephant feeding on a bush; you can make out only the silhouette. Gradually all the pieces come together and it finally makes sense how the desert works.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) I like the winter. Almost every day is foggy and fresh, and you can see how trees, plants, and animals get their water from the fog. In summer it is very dry, and HOT – though if it rains then it’s great to see how fast everything turns green and comes to life.

What kind of community and conservation work is WS doing/supporting in the area? That Hoanib is involved in?

(Clement) Hoanib Skeleton Coast is in a joint venture with three conservancies as part of our agreement as concession holders in the Palmwag Concession. We as a camp support the Conservancy Outpost in the Mudorib River, which monitors movements in and out of the concession itself. We have strong ties with local communities; most of our staff are from these areas. We embrace local culture as part of our brand which reflects both ways, to communities and guests alike.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

The camp has its own research centre where guests have an opportunity to meet local researchers and learn more specifics about the ecosystem. Emsie Verwey, busy with brown hyena research, is our base researcher and facilitates researchers in camp. This helps researchers study in remote locations as well as providing input on which areas or species are critical to the ecosystem here.

(Munya) During the COVID-19 pandemic, Wilderness Safaris has been involved in the issuing of food parcels in the Sesfontien area. Assisting communities affected by COVID-19, Children in the Wilderness (CITW) has been active in community development projects and in mentoring youth.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

At Hoanib conservation is not just a ‘catch phrase’ used lightly. Camp staff work to preserve the pristine nature of the desert through environmental conservation efforts, including driving on designated roads (avoiding off-road driving). The guides at Hoanib embody conservation, and work in conjunction with the research centres based at the camp, the Desert Lion Conservation Project and the brown hyaena project, observing and reporting strange animal behaviour as well as sightings. This data allows researchers to know if an animal is in distress, and provides vital territorial mapping information. It also helps mitigate human-wildlife conflict. Recently, Wilderness Safaris installed the (LoRa) Long Range system in camp, an effort spearheaded by Smart Parks. The technology uses long-range communication to track not only animals but also vehicles. It is a cost-effective tool, operated by solar power and gives us real-time data on the location of animals that have tracking collars.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) Around Hoanib, Wilderness Safaris has worked with the Himba, Herero, and Damara communities in many aspects, looking after the animals and the environment. We avoid off-road driving and we don’t cut down trees. A lot of research is done at Hoanib, on desert lions for instance, with a project to collar them to curb human-wildlife conflict between the lions and the local people. We’ve also worked with various NGOs to help them build kraals to protect their domestic animals. Brown hyaenas are also collared and monitored; we teach guests about their importance in the ecosystem.

Tell us about the Olympus photography experience at camp, please.

(Clement) Wilderness Safaris and Olympus have joined forces, using their high-end services and combined passion for wildlife photography to ensure the ongoing conservation of Africa’s remote wilderness areas as well as the empowerment of local people through conservation education.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

We have two fully equipped camera kits in camp, and guests can use these to capture some fantastic images, taking them home on a complimentary memory card.

Most guests have their own equipment, but the Olympus Camera Experience is really awesome, enhancing guests’ photographic opportunities during their stay.

(Munya) I received my Olympus training in 2020 whilst I was working in Damaraland. It was an eye-opening experience. The Olympus cameras that we have come with different lenses, enabling the photographer to take various types of photos ranging from landscape, wildlife, and even close-up photographs that reflect culture. At Hoanib the guides have shared their experiences on the internal ‘We Are Wilderness’ Facebook group. Some, like Moses, entered the recent Wilderness Safaris photography competition.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) They are very nice cameras, they take good photos. A lot of guests like the cameras they use while here and are buying Olympus now. A portion of the sale revenue actually goes to CITW, so all for a good cause .

What items are essential for guests to bring while on safari at Hoanib?

(Munya) Sunscreen, a pullover, sun hat, sunglasses, and closed-toe shoes.

(Clement) The Skeleton Coast can be tricky compared to the rest of Namibia, which stays sunny all day, every day. Here temperatures fluctuate according to the prevailing westerly wind off the Atlantic Ocean. So guests should definitely bring a warm jacket; early mornings can be foggy and chilly. It eventually warms up, so you will need sunblock and a hat by lunchtime. When you’re sipping your sundowner in the evening you’ll again need your jacket, as the prevailing wind cools the desert all over again. If you come in winter, bring along a scarf and a beanie as well.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) Guests need to bring sunscreen, sun hats, binoculars, cameras, clothes that blend in with the landscape, and memory cards because there’s a lot to photograph.

What are your favourite areas to visit around/in camp and why? Which spots are guests’ favourites? Which places are best for sundowners?

(Max) The favourite areas to visit in and around camp are the Hoanib River, the backbone of the desert and where the wildlife will be. Guests also love to sit in front of their rooms watching animals at the waterhole, and we have hills or mountains around camp that we walk or drive up for sundowners.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Munya) Rallies is my favorite sundowner spot because it is on a hill, with a 360-degree view from up there. Other hills do not block the sun as it sets. It is also secluded. Once whilst having a staff sundowner with the managers, two lionesses strolled past us.

(Clement) Everyone loves the pool – it’s always refreshing and the best way to cool down while enjoying a beverage. The view is fantastic, overlooking the waterhole. I also love it around the fire late at night when everyone is asleep and all the lights are off. The stars are so beautiful, and if you are lucky you can feel the fog rolling in.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

Please talk about the décor/design at Hoanib, in the rooms as well as the common areas.

(Munya) Totally solar-powered, Hoanib has a modern design, it’s not the typical safari-style template. Its interior is decorated in subtle shades reflecting the environment – in beiges, browns, greys, olive greens, and blues, mostly. Both the rooms and the main areas are contemporary, with light wood tones, straight lines, and flat finishes. The rooms are characterised by large glass screens as well. They are spacious, with a large glass anterior, yet also cosy.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Clement) The colours blend in well with the desert, with soft blue accents. The camp’s simple layout gives a feeling of space – as the desert does. Local woven baskets adorn the walls, and each room has a fantastic black and white photo of wildlife along the river taken by Graham Springer.

(Max) The camp is beautifully designed, its colours blending in with the landscape. The rooms are spacious and welcoming.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

What is the dining experience at Hoanib, and some highlights on the menu? Please share the various dining options, in camp and in the bush.

(Munya) Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Hoanib offered the communal dining experience. There are other dining experiences available: meals in the restaurant or open air in front of the lodge facing the waterhole. The menu varies according to the season but always has nutritious vegetarian and meat options and salads. Some sample dishes from our summer menu include: honeybush poached pear and biltong salad; millet and gem risotto with tender stems and brie cheese; Namibian lamb loin served with pea and mint cauliflower mash and green beans; pan-fried kingklip with pineapple salsa, lime aioli, and coconut potato crisps; deconstructed lemon meringue pie; granadilla with meringue and mint.

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(Clement) Dining under the stars is brilliant, we seize the opportunity whenever we can. Our menu is seasonal, so we adapt and incorporate new foods all the time. We focus on light, fresh, and healthy meals but also offer traditional braais for our guests. My favourite food offering is the bread rolls filled with cheese and basil pesto and cooked on hot coals.

(Max) I love the outside dining experience near the fire pit and under the stars, sometimes watching lion and elephant walking past.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

What makes you most proud of the camp, and working there?

(Clement) What we have been able to contribute to the ‘family’ of Hoanib has been my greatest pride. We formed a strong team as a whole and achieved many things together, small and big. Our support of the many NGOs and governmental operations came naturally, our contributions came unconditionally – because we believe in the people we work with.

(Munya) Its location and the beautiful design of the facilities. It is one of the few camps that is close to the ocean.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) It’s a beautiful camp to work at – the peace, the wildlife, and for me most of all, the landscape.

Who comprises the staff at Hoanib? Please tell us a bit about their backgrounds, training, service, relationships with guests etc.

(Munya) Most staff are from the Sesfontein area or the Anabeb Conservancy, which stretches as far as the Palmwag area. These are mixed tribes: Damara and some Himba. Most are locals who were trained by Wilderness Safaris Training Department. Guests are always curious to know where the staff are from, how long they have been working with the company, and information regarding their families.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Clement) Most of our staff come from the local villages in the conservancies. Wilderness Safaris gives us continuous training throughout our time in camp; this varies from standards to service in all departments. Staff learn so much from this training; some even grow into other positions as they develop their skill set. We have maintenance guys who become drivers and eventually guides, for instance.

At Hoanib we tried to start off with a clean slate and employ people with the least experience to give them the opportunity to grow, which has been so beneficial for all of us. We were able to implement strong principles about guests and the services we provide to them. It was an incredible journey; to see change and growth in people is so amazing. Hoanib staff are the best humans, if you ask me. Guests spend optimal time with staff, learning so much about their backgrounds and about how much they have grown in their time with Wilderness Safaris, at Hoanib.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Max) Management here is very understanding and make us laugh. There’s a good atmosphere in camp – happy staff and happy guests.

What feelings/impressions would you most like guests to take away with them?

(Max) Our guests must enjoy their holiday, learn a lot yet relax their brains, and take away a lot of memories.

(Munya) Guests are often happy that the camp gives employment preference to locals, because this enables them to support their families and in turn develop their communities. Most often guests want to know how they can assist community projects around the camp, through monetary donations or other means. I’m glad that they can leave knowing they can help the local people.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

(Clement) Anyone who visits Hoanib will leave with a feeling hard to describe back home. It is hard to convey the magic of being out in the wilderness with no interference or impact other than your immediate surroundings. It gives a feeling which only the soul understands. I’ve often found myself genuflecting to the privilege the desert holds, which will stay with me for as long as I am alive. There are so many, many experiences that have humbled me throughout the time I have spent in the desert, at and around Hoanib. It is a remarkable place, and an honour to be part of it.

Written by Melissa Siebert

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Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

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  • Excellent 189
  • Very Good 17
  • All languages ( 212 )
  • English ( 192 )
  • German ( 8 )
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" The only camp in the area with a private concession where no other camps or the public may enter and it reaches from Amspoort to the coast. "
" Make sure you book for three nights so your stay includes a trip to the Skeleton Coast! "
" A must go for safari lovers "
" Come prepared for a range of temperatures. "
" All great but try and get a room with a short walk to main building. "

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WILDERNESS HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP - Campground Reviews (Hoanib Valley, Namibia) - Tripadvisor

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Review: Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp (Namibia)

Wednesday  newsletters  always feature a  hotel  or  flight  review.

Last November, I enjoyed a fabulous holiday in  Namibia . You can read my trip reports here:

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  • Review: Hoanib Skeleton Coast by Wilderness Safaris (today)
  • Review: Onguma The Fort (Etosha National Park)

Today: Review of Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp by Wilderness Safaris (Namibia)

  • Location:  Google maps
  • Hotel website: Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp by Wilderness Safaris

Managed by Wilderness Safaris, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp occupies a glorious spot in a remote corner of one of Earth’s last untouched wildernesses: the Namib Desert’s famed Kaokoveld, an otherworldly and remote landscape hewn over the ages into immense dunes and rocky mountains. The lodge’s eight luxury tented suites peak like whitecaps on an ocean of sand, looking out on a wide, rugged valley that slopes down to the usually dry Hoanib River. Highlights include a spectacular dry-and-fly excursion to the Skeleton Coast and dining under impossibly starry skies, perhaps at the firepit as a jackal cries or a lion roars, punctuating the stillness of the inky night. The property also doubles as a center for research and conservation of the desert-adapted predators of this harsh region: the desert-adapted lion and brown hyaena.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp features in my top 10 lists of the  best hotels in Namibia and the best desert lodges in the world .

Have you ever stayed at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp? If so, what was your experience? Leave a  comment .

In this review (more info and photos below my Youtube clip & slideshow):

  • Pros & things I like
  • Cons & things to know
  • Tips for future guests &  save money
  • Best time to visit
  • How to get there

PROS & THINGS I LIKE

  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is located in a private concession along the Skeleton Coast inside the Namib, the oldest desert on earth. Stretching over thousands of miles, the endless dunes of the Namib span the entire the length of Namibia, from the Uniab River in the north to the town of Luderitz in the south. The Skeleton Coast lies in between; it’s a hostile but fascinating wilderness area where the cold and unpredictable Benguela Current of the Atlantic Ocean clashes with a spectacular dune and desert landscape. The name Skeleton Coast derived most probably from the huge numbers of stranded whales that lost their life here and whose skeletons could be seen all over the place. The coast is also dotted with shipwrecks, as numerous ships have stranded here due to the thick fog, the rough sea, unpredictable currents and stormy winds. Large parts of the Skeleton Coast are protected as a National Park.
  • Located roughly 50 km (30 mi) from the shoreline, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp enjoys a spectacular setting in the otherworldly landscape of the Namib Desert’s famed Kaokoveld. Surrounded by rust-colored crags and vast gravel plains, the camp looks out over a small waterhole (often visited by desert adapted elephants) and a wide, rugged valley that slopes down to the Hoanib River. This river bed is dry most of the time (the river only flows during rare rains which might hit the area every few years) but the region’s subterranean water as well as some springs ensure that vegetation grows along the river banks, creating a lush oasis that runs as a green line through the stark desert landscape. The scenery is at its most beautiful and surreal in the early morning hours when the rocks are blanketed by a layer of fog created by the cold Benguela Current, which only lifts as the desert warms up during the day.
  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is one of the most remotely located lodges on earth (which is part of its appeal). The camp is only accessible by light aircraft and the transfers are taken care of by Wilderness Safaris through its partner Wilderness Air . Wilderness Air began operating in 1991, with one aircraft based in Botswana servicing two camps in the Okavango Delta. Today, Wilderness Air is also based in Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, operating over 26 aircraft and employing over 40 pilots. Throughout its time, it has maintained a reputation for steadfast, safe operations. For most guests, the trip to Hoanib Skeleton Coast will start at Wilderness’ airstrip near its Doro Nawas lodge in Damaraland (although guests can be flown in from other areas in Namibia as well). The 40 minute flight from Doro Nawas to Hoanib skeleton Coast is a sightseeing adventure in itself, with gorgeous views of Damarand’s majestic and cinematic landscape.
  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp’s pale olive, luxury tented pavilions peak like whitecaps on an ocean of sand. There are nine tents in total: eight accommodations (more on that below) and one double canvas structure housing the public facilities. The latter features a large lounge area with several linnen sofas arranged around coffee tables and an open fire place where guests can relax, unwind, and enjoy the incredible views. Behind the lounge area is a lovely bar, where afternoon tea is laid out (prior to the evening activities) and pre- or post-dinner drinks are served. Next to the lounge area is a light-filled, minimalist dining room, with simple wooden tables and white ‘nest’ design chairs. To the side of main pavilion is a wooden deck with a lovely swimming pool and a few sunloungers under a shaded canvas, offering respite from the desert heat in the summer months. A camp fire is lit each evening in front of the main area, where guests can warm up and socialize prior to dinner.
  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp features eight suites , seven of them standard twin or double rooms and one a double bedroom family unit. Spread out in a semi-circle on both sides of the main pavilion, the accommodations are constructed from a double layer of canvas, which keeps the rooms cool in the summer heat (there’s no A/C) and provides insulation during the colder winter months. All the suites have a minimalist, contemporary design, with a soothing color palette reflecting the surrounding desert and large floor-to-ceiling glass windows bringing the outside in. Covered in polished concrete floors, the bedroom features a large kingsize bed (or twin beds), a sitting area along the large window, a writing desk, and open-sided closet areas. The ensuite bathroom is equipped with twin stone basins, a large rain shower, and a separate toilet. Outside, there’s a shaded lounge area with minibar, overlooking the spectacular surroundings.
  • Despite the remote location, Hoanib Skeleton Camp’s chefs prepare delicious meals , which are included in the daily rate. For breakfast, a small continental buffet is set up in the main dining room and guests can also order a hot dish (e.g. eggs, pancakes). When in camp, a light lunch is served, comprising a starter, a choice of two main dishes, and dessert. During day excursions (such as the trip to the coast), a hearty picnic lunch is provided. Evenings mostly start with a drink around the campfire, followed by an excellent three course dinner, either served inside or al fresco on the gravel plain in front of the main lodge (depending on the weather).  During my stay, main options included dishes like grilled beef fillet with Hasselback potato, pork loin with pineapple chutney, apple sider braised chicken, and venison served with sweet potato fondant, corn, baby marrow. Vegetarian options such as aubergine stew or Dahl curry are offered as well.
  • Hoanib skeleton Coast is one of the few lodges in Namibia that offers not only a desert experience but also a coastal experience. The lodge’s activities make the most of the diverse landscapes, with guests exploring the area on foot, by vehicle and by air along with expert Wilderness Safaris guides. Unique attractions include true desert oases found in the Hoanib floodplains, as well as unique game-viewing opportunities. The area is home to desert-adapted elephant, as well as gemsbok, giraffe, springbok. Hoanib also doubles as a scientific center for research and conservation of the desert-adapted predators of this harsh region: the desert-adapted lion and brown hyaena which roam the area around the camp. Much has been written about a pride of desert lions from this area, affectionately known as the ‘musketeers’ from the film  Vanishing Kings . I was lucky to see an offspring from this pride, a lioness named Charlie eyeing up passing prey in the dry river bed and eventually killing an orynx.
  • The highlight of any stay at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a day excursion to the coast , across the wild Hoanib River floodplain and rolling dunes to the frigid Atlantic Ocean, where the cold Benguela current collides with the warmer desert and generates the region’s famed fog. The first part of the trip involves an exciting drive in a 4WD vehicle over the dunes to the Skeleton Coast, with a stop at an oasis en route, then a drive along the beach to see seal colonies and other sights, followed by a picnic lunch at the seaside, enjoying the ocean breeze. The trip ends with a scenic flight back to the camp, wowing guests with views of the dunes and the topography below. For me what stands out from the trip is that one moment you are driving in the endless desert, and the next moment you are at the rugged coastline, where the desert meets the ocean! The excursion also is interesting historically: there’s a brief stop at a small museum exhibiting whale skeletons – one of the reasons it’s named the Skeleton Coast.
  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is managed by Wilderness Safaris , my favorite safari company. Wilderness Safaris was founded in 1983 in Botswana by two young guides, who wanted to ensure both conservation of wildlife areas and that the financial benefits of their safaris flow to Botswana and its people. Today, Wilderness Safaris is widely acclaimed as the continent’s foremost ecotourism operator, dedicated to conserving and restoring Africa’s wilderness and wildlife. They do this by creating life-changing journeys in some of the most remote and pristine areas in Africa, hereby helping to conserve Africa’s spectacular biodiversity and share ecotourism’s benefits with the local communities. Hoanib can be combined with a stay at Wilderness Safaris’ other lodges in Namibia to create an authentic and evocative desert experience, from Damaraland   Desert Rhino  Camps to  Serra Cafema  in the far north.
  • Hoanib skeleton Coast Camp is deeply committed to Wilderness Safaris’ 4Cs sustainability ethos of Commerce, Community, Culture and Conservation. The camp is part of a joint venture partnership with the neighboring communities, so that ecotourism is able to benefit the people of the area. This camp is set in one of the most fragile ecosystems in the world, and therefore has been built with minimal impact on the environment. It is 100% solar powered, with each guest tent having its own small solar geyser for hot water. In order to reduce the use of bottled water, reverse osmosis filtration is done on site to provide guests with high-quality drinking water. This camp is managed and monitored against very strict in-house environmental standards, so only approved eco-friendly detergents and chemicals are used. The camp also makes use of innovative eco-friendly systems to break down wastewater which can then be used by plant life.

CONS & THINGS TO KNOW

  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is one of the most remotely located lodges on Planet Earth, and getting there requires some efforts as it involves a flight onboard a light aircraft . If you don’t like small planes, this might be a challenge but it should not deter you from staying here. Fyi, I am a nervous flyer myself but I felt totally comfortable and safe during the flight (the pilots don’t fly very high) and I was impressed by the professionalism of Wilderness Air. Also, the flight is an incredible experience in itself: it is hard to comprehend the remoteness of the location and genuine wilderness experience until you fly in over never-ending dunes.
  • Not only is Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp one of the most remotely located on earth, it’s also located in the middle of one of the harshest environments of the planet . Expect incredible hot temperatures during the day, very cold nights, and occasional sand storms hitting the area, especially during the summer months. It’s all part though of the phenomenal natural spectacle that you’ll witness when staying here and it makes you appreciate even more that Wilderness Safaris is able to operate a luxury camp here and offer incredible wilderness experiences (a stay here truly feels like being part of a National Geographic documentary).
  • Similar to most other remotely located lodges in Namibia, the WiFi is intermittent (and not available from time to time, although the staff do their best to restore the internet quickly when it fails). However, that should not be much of a problem as the entire experience at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is about disconnecting from civilization and connecting with the splendid desolation offered by the desert environment. If you need to be online 24/7, then this place – and Namibia in general – isn’t for you.
  • Due to its extremely remote location, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is not as lavishly luxurious as some of the other lodges in Africa. For example, there are no wellness and health facilities on site (no spa and no gym) and the swimming pool on the main lodge’s outdoor deck is rather small and filled with icy cold water (but pleasant nonetheless). Also, there is no in-room air-conditioning although the tents are uniquely designed to allow for air flow which help keep things cool during the heat of the day (and should that not help the sparkling pool in the main area is a perfect escape with a cold beverage). But don’t get me wrong: Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is still a luxurious tented lodge, providing all the comforts and pleasures that discerning travelers may need in these climate extremes.
  • Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is not fenced off , so guests are required to be vigilant at all times. Lions, elephants, snakes and scorpions are present in the desert, and there is no physical impediment to them entering the area around the lodge. Guests cannot walk alone around the lodge at night (hotel staff escorts guests to/from their suite).
  • Location: 10/10
  • Design: 10/10
  • Rooms: 8/10
  • Breakfast: 8/10
  • Service: 10/10
  • Value for money: 10/10
  • Overall experience: exceptional 10/10

TIPS FOR FUTURE GUESTS & SAVE MONEY

  • Save money : read here my tips for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel like Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp (and/or receive many free perks).
  • Travel tip : nights and mornings at Hoanib can be cold while afternoons can be scorching. Bring layers and be ready to add or shed clothes as the day progresses. Also, bring plenty of water, sun cream and lip balm as it is incredibly dry and your skin will thank you! Also, it is dusty at times, so a scarf or kerchief to cover your mouth and nose is helpful.
  • Travel tip : read or watch videos about the area before arriving. It’s an incredibly rich area for history and nature. You’ll truly appreciate it once you arrive and see it in person.
  • Read my  tips  for preparing your trip in time.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

The best time to visit Namibia is from July to October, when the temperatures are comfortably warm during the day and the chance of rain is low. This is also the best time for outdoor activities and wildlife viewing, making it peak travel season. Between December and March, some days will be humid and rain may follow, often in localized, afternoon thunderstorms.

HOW TO GET THERE

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is situated between the Palmwag area and Skeleton Coast National Park in the remote Kaokoveld in Namibia. It is only accessible by light aircraft from different airfields in the country (including Windhoek Airport). Wilderness Safaris takes care of the flight reservations.

Below is a selection of my photos of Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp. To view more hotel photos (including meals and excursions), click here .

HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP

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Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

Skeleton Coast, Namibia

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Is the Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp for Me?

The name “Skeleton Coast” conjures up romantic images of desolate beauty, and proudly remote Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp in the Kaokoveld does not disappoint. The dry bed of the Hoanib River supports a thin green ribbon of vegetation and the wild beaches of the Atlantic coast are within reach, with their noisy seal colonies and eerily quiet shipwreck remnants.

Eight large en-suite tents (including one family unit) and the main area provide shady viewpoints, while nature drives into the surrounding area reveal a wealth of desert-adapted wildlife. Desert-adapted lion and brown hyena may also be glimpsed in this vast but far from lifeless landscape.

INSIDER’S TIP: On a stay of three nights or more, a coastal excursion to The Skeleton Coast is included. Usually involving a drive down to the coast and a flight back to camp, to see such a diverse area both on the ground and in the air.

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Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

Explore namibia’s kaokoveld, palmwag wilderness and iconic skeleton coast.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp sits where two ephemeral tributaries of the Hoanib River meet in one of the most remote corners of Namibia’s Kaokoveld. Its location between the scenic Palmwag wilderness and the iconic Skeleton Coast National Park makes it ideal for exploring the beautiful northwest of Namibia.

Accommodation at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is in 8 absolutely beautiful suites, decorated in soft natural colours. Large, comfortable beds look out onto rugged ochre hills, while every suite has a furnished, shaded deck to appreciate the silence and majesty of your surroundings.

Brown Hyena in Namibia

What to expect

At the main lodge, you’ll find a cool, comfortable dining area, enormous lounge, swimming pool and outdoor fire pit. Activities at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp include exploring the dried Hoanib Riverbed or Mudorib Spring in search of desert-adapted elephant, giraffe and gemsbok. You may also be lucky enough to see brown hyena, jackal or lion. Fly over the often fog-shrouded Skeleton Coast, with its enormous seal colonies and perhaps even see the stark shores from ground level.

Getting there

  • A sophisticated desert camp in one of the most remote corners of the Kaokoveld
  • Straddling the Skeleton Coast National Park and Palmwag wilderness
  • Beautiful, luxurious accommodation set amid stark, lunar landscapes
  • Search for desert-adapted wildlife and explore the dramatic Atlantic coast
  • Enjoy a wide range of diverse activities from walks to flightseeing
  • Scenic drives along the Hoanib Riverbed or to Mudorib Spring
  • Flightseeing over the Skeleton Coast
  • Guided nature walks
  • Cape fur seal colony visits

* Some activities at extra cost

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp can be reached by scheduled light aircraft flight from Windhoek, Swakopmund or selected other airstrips in Namibia.

*Some activities are available at extra cost.

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Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

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Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a beautiful camp in a very remote location of northern Damaraland, about 1km outside the boundary of the Skeleton Coast National Park . Built in a private concession, or reserve, close to the ephemeral Hoanib River, it is surrounded by gravel plains, mountains, and large yellow sand dunes.

There are eight modern, stylish suites at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp , seven of them standard twin or double rooms, and one a family unit. All the suites have a distinctive and innovative design that makes use of natural light through floor-to-ceiling glass windows in the main bedroom space. Airflow is maximised by panels both large and small within the canvas walls, which can be opened to allow a breeze to flow through the whole room. Facing the full-length windows, with stunning views, the beds have white bedside tables and reading lamps integrated into the headboard, all surrounded by a mosquito net that makes it feel spacious and roomy. Two open-sided closet areas combine to give plenty of hanging space, and housing for a digital safe, insect repellent and bug sprays, small hanging canvas shelves, extra blankets etc. There are plenty of plug points around the room incorporating most pin styles. Outside is a veranda with shaded lounge area incorporating comfortable seating, ‘tree stump’ coffee tables, plus a small table with chairs. There is also a fridge where you can help yourself to a cold drink while you take in the views. The family unit has two bedrooms, separated by a shared lounge area, and can accommodate a maximum of four guests.

The main areas at Hoanib Camp include a dining room, inside and outside lounge areas, a bar and a long, narrow plunge pool. With the same double canvas structure as the suites and a comfortable yet stylish interior and furnishings, it exudes an air of luxury.

Activities from Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp include morning and afternoon 4WD drives – either scenic or for wildlife viewing; nature walks where you can learn close up about the smaller animals and insects as plants, and full-day trips to Klein Oase, and Auses and Mudorib springs (which attract desert-adapted elephant and plenty of birds). The camp’s proximity to the Skeleton Coast National Park affords guests great access to this remote and inhospitable part of Namibia. Very few people get to visit this unique park, an area of vast dunes fields, gravel plains with delicate lichen fields, windswept beaches, Cape fur seals and remnants of shipwrecks, and Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is the very best base from which to explore. Included in a stay of three nights or more is an excursion to the coast, which is a real highlight.

About the Skeleton Coast National Park

The so-called Skeleton Coast is a 40 km wide and 500 km long coastal stretch in Namibia, a hostile but fascinating area. Here the cold and unpredictable Benguela Current of the Atlantic Ocean clashes with the dune and desert landscape of north-western Namibia.

The name Skeleton Coast derived most probably from the huge numbers of stranded whales that lost their life here and whose skeletons could be seen all over the place.

Numerous ships have stranded at the Skeleton Coast thanks to the thick fog, the rough sea, unpredictable currents, and stormy winds. The sailors who were able to make it to the land did not stand a chance of survival at this inhospitable coast and died of thirst.

Despite the hostile character of the Skeleton Coast, there are quite several wild animals to observe, for example, desert-adapted elephants, rhinos, desert lions, brown hyenas, jackals, giraffes, seals, oryx, kudus and zebras. Also, some plants are incredibly adapted to the rainless area of the Skeleton Coast and depend solely on the daily fog from the Atlantic Ocean: There are welwitschias,!Nara melons, several lithops succulent plants (often called “living stones”), lichen and pencil bush (ink bush).

  • Name Skeleton Coast National Park, Namibia
  • Size 1.7 million hectares
  • Camp Unfenced
  • Eco-Friendly
  • Malaria area
  • No Cell Phone Signal
  • Child Friendly
  • No Off Road

Why We Love It

  • Wilderness Safaris - Classic Camp
  • Located in the hauntingly beautiful remote northern region of Namibia
  • The life-giving Hoanib River runs past the camp and draws wildlife to its banks
  • Game drives venture down the narrow ribbon of vegetation along the dry riverbed in search of desert-adapted elephant, gemsbok, giraffe, and lion
  • The Camp borders the Skeleton Coast National Park and has private access through the Eastern gate

Good to know

  • Hoanib Camp is accessible only by light aircraft transfer from Doro Nawas. Travellers on a self-drive trip through Namibia will need to park their vehicle at Doro Nawas and then fly in to Hoanib
  • Hoanib Camp does not have air conditioning

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

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7 Standard Tents

1 Family Tent

  • Setting: Lies on gravel-strewn plains and dry riverbeds
  • Game Drives
  • Guided Walks
  • Coast Excursion - full day coast excursion included for three night stays or more, but can be arranged at an additional cost if pre-booked.

Children Game Drive Policy

  • Families with children under 12 will be required to book and pay for a private game vehicle unless the camp is booked for sole-use, or they fill a vehicle (6 guests)

Guests per Safari Vehicle

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

  • Per person per night sharing
  • From R 6,995
  • Normal selling rate R 16,641
  • Save up to Save 58%
  • Prices are indicative. Please contact us for a comprehensive quotation.

Rates Include

  • Accommodation in Luxury Tents
  • Twice daily scheduled camp activities
  • All local drinks

20-minute road transfer from Hoanib Skeleton Coast Airstrip to the camp

*Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is accessible only by light aircraft transfer from Doro Nawas. Travellers on a self-drive trip through Namibia will need to park their vehicle at Doro Nawas and then fly into Hoanib Skeleton Coast Airstrip.

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Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, Namibia

  • All rates quoted are per person per night sharing, unless otherwise stated
  • Please chat to one of our Game Lodge experts for the single accommodation & child rates
  • Our 'From' rate reflected is only an indication of the property's pricing. Once we have your exact dates, we will send through a detailed quotation
  • A number of our rates quoted are based on specials for SADC Residents
  • All accommodation will be subject to availability
  • All rates quoted are based on a minimum stay of two nights
  • Any applicable Conservation Levies & Park Fees will be quoted as an additional amount
  • When we specify ‘Off Road’, this applies to Big 5 sightings only
  • Bush Walks will often need to be pre-booked
  • Childminding is generally at an additional cost
  • For our comprehensive T's & C's, please see the link in our main 'navigation bar'

Important Notes

  • There is a computer station in the main area including complimentary internet access

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Skeleton Coast safari: a life-affirming desert adventure in Namibia

Find your life force in the Namib desert, where wildlife of all shapes and sizes thrive against the odds

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Sossusvlei sand dunes, Namibia

  • Skeleton Coast safari: a life-affirming desert adventure
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  • Lodge guide: Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

If anywhere in our over-explored world can still be called a wilderness, it’s the Skeleton Coast in northwest Namibia. The gates that mark the end of the public road at its southern boundary don’t quite say “here be dragons”, but they may as well: a giant painted skull and crossbones greets intrepid drivers – and an all-too-real collection of whale bones. Those who do venture in by road will have to deal with deep sand, tyre-shredding rocks and a sparse road network that peters out just as things get interesting.

Far better, then, to put yourself in the more experienced hands of Wilderness Safaris’ Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, where their expert guides, vehicles and even light aircraft will assist your exploration of this otherwise impenetrable landscape.

Skeleton Coast adventure: the five-star desert safari in full

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Where is it?

The camp is on the fringe of the Skeleton Coast national park, about half way between the coastal town of Swakopmund and the Angolan border. Between the two is an area that’s almost as big as Wales yet home to just a few dozen people. Most guests arrive by plane, which takes a couple of hours from the international airport in Windhoek.

The landscape

The camp sits in a dry valley, with mountains behind it and in front an expanse of sand leading down to the Hoanib river. For much of the year (and sometimes several years in a row) the river is dry, but the steep river cliffs it has carved into the floodplain are proof of its power when the rains do come. As you progress downstream towards the Atlantic, the floodplain widens and the dark rocky mountains give way to golden sand dunes, which rise and fall until they reach the sea.

Activities and game drives

A desert safari is very different from one in the water-rich grasslands of the Okavango Delta in Botswana, or even Namibia’s own Etosha national park , where prey and predators gather in large numbers. Instead of sitting back and watching as herds of animals pass you by, you will be actively seeking out a few highly adapted species – the desert lions and elephants, for example – and stopping off to see the other birds, insects, snakes and small mammals that catch your guide’s attention on the way.

Finding a lion or elephant is by no means guaranteed given the ground they have to cover to survive in such a harsh environment, but the skill of the guides dramatically increases your chances. And you will certainly see giraffe, springbok and oryx as you make your way through the valley – often against the unusual and highly photogenic backdrop of sand dunes. You will also have the opportunity to speak to the researchers based at Hoanib Skeleton Coast camp, learning more about how wildlife has found a way to survive in such dry conditions.

A day trip to the coast is included if you spend three nights or more at Hoanib (and otherwise available for an extra fee). An experience like no other, it usually begins with a pre-dawn drive across the flood plain. As the sun rises, you might do some elephant tracking on route, or happen across some hyenas scavenging on the river bank. You will make time for a bush breakfast too, before emerging into the dunes that mark the western edge of Africa. Beyond them is the coast itself, a spooky, misty strip littered with whalebones and the occasional shipwreck – as well as thousands of seals. After probably the most remote lunch you will ever eat, you will return to the camp by light aircraft – a scenic, low-level flight along the course of the river.

Accommodation and food

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp consists of eight guest cabins, all with tented roofs that resemble the peaks and ridges of the nearby dunefield. Inside, the glass-and-canvas suites are generously sized, with large and very comfortable beds and spacious bathrooms. The whole camp is furnished to complement the desert landscape, using plenty of untreated timber and muted fabrics. The overall effect is modern, crisp but unobtrusive.

A similar aesthetic extends to the common area, which consists of a small swimming pool as well as a restaurant, bar and lounge. The quality of food, as at all the Wilderness Safaris camps, is excellent, with plenty of choice on an a la carte menu which changes daily (and is coordinated with other lodges in Namibia to ensure variety even when you’re hopping from camp to camp). Meals are served at individual tables.

Given its desert location, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp can get hot at any time of the year, but the heat is at its most intense from October to January. Temperatures in the high 30s are not uncommon and the sun feels strong. Rain is most likely from January to March, usually in the form of spectacular thunderstorms. Some areas of the river bed may become inaccessible after rain – but those that can still be reached are carpeted in grass and flowers. Peak season runs from April to September, when daytime temperatures are cooler (though still up to 30C in the middle of the day).

Price and booking

Off-peak rates at Hoanib Skeleton Coast (between January and March 2023) start from about £765 per person per night, based on two-people sharing. The room rate includes meals, drinks and most activities. Flights to and from the lodge are extra. The lodge is part of Wilderness Safaris’ Natural Wonders of Namibia itinerary – or can be included in a tailor-made trip. Contact Wilderness Safaris for more information. Flights to Windhoek are available from about £700 with Lufthansa (via Frankfurt) or Qatar Airways (via Doha).

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wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

4 stars

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a luxury safari lodge and the only one of its kind in the Skeleton Coast National Park. Remote, exclusive and unique, this Wilderness Safaris Classic Camp is a stand-out asset to Namibia.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

The original Skeleton Coast Camp burnt down in 2012 effectively closing the Skeleton Coast Park to all but the most intrepid of self-sufficient explorers. With a move to the Hoanib River valley in August 2014 the Phoenix has arisen and the Skeleton Coast, one of Namibia's most remote yet iconic destinations, is back ladies and gentlemen.

Back with a bang. The Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a superlative-defying experience in true Wilderness Safaris avant-garde style. From the fly-in access to the wonderful free-form tented suites to the spell-binding nature experience and the surprising level of luxury in this distant location, Hoanib not only puts the Skeleton Coast back on the map, this extraordinary lodge turns the Skeleton Coast into a must-visit destination.

We recommend a minimum three-night stay to capture the entire experience and you will not begrudge that extra night for one second. Being a Wilderness Safaris camp you can expect the highest standards of bush luxury, service, food and setting as a given. What's more you can expect the nature experience to be out of this world. And with the amazing desert scenery: ancient riverbeds cutting through dolomite mountains, dunefields, oases, desert-adapted wildlife and plantlife and all of this in complete isolation, the experience offers so much more than just another luxury safari lodge.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is in an exclusive concession straddling Palmwag the Skeleton Coast parks. This diversity of inland Kaokoland and coastal Namibia gives you an exceptional nature experience. Game drives take you in search of the amazing desert- adapted wildlife including elephants, oryx, giraffe and springbok as well as lion, brown hyena and black-backed jackal if you're lucky. Explore the area on foot or by car with your expert guide bringing the seemingly lifeless desertscape to full-colour living glory and everywhere you go the scenery is not only spectacular it is utterly unique.

Lodge Facilities

  • main covered living area
  • open-air lounge
  • al fresco dining area
  • full board accommodation
  • swimming pool

Room Facilities

  • 8 luxury tented suites
  • en suite bathrooms with double vanity, separate toilet and shower with a view
  • mosquito nets
  • pedestal fans (no air-conditioning)
  • coffee and tea facilities
  • Olympus equipment (includes a camera and a paid of binoculars)
  • private deck with outside seating

Game drives and nature walks; oasis visits; lion research and conservation programme

Sustainability

Energy efficiency, waste management, sustainable sourcing, water conservation, community and environment benefit, site and building impact, map location, similar properties, meet the team.

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

"NTS organized the trip wonderfully!"

We felt that the trip kept getting better every day

"The trip of our lives!"

Everything was excellently planned by Ashlee at Namibia Tours & Safaris.

"A truly wonderful and memorable trip"

Namibia, it's countryside, people and wildlife really should be on everyone's bucket list of places to visit!

"Absolutely a five star experience with this great company!"

Super clear communication, great recommendations and just really clear logistics.

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Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

wilderness safaris hoanib skeleton coast camp

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  • Excellent 189
  • Very Good 17
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" The only camp in the area with a private concession where no other camps or the public may enter and it reaches from Amspoort to the coast. "
" Make sure you book for three nights so your stay includes a trip to the Skeleton Coast! "
" A must go for safari lovers "
" Come prepared for a range of temperatures. "
" All great but try and get a room with a short walk to main building. "

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Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp - Reviews & Photos (Hoanib Valley, Namibia) - Campground - Tripadvisor

Hoanib Camp

Set in the fabulously remote lower Hoanib Valley in the Damaraland North area of northwest Namibia, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a fabulous high-end option, with guest accommodation in 9 rooms and offering a superb range of well-guided safari and desert experiences, notably including the Skeleton Coast. Minimum child age 12 (6 with private vehicle).

Hoanib Camp, Location

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is located in the Damaraland North area.

Hoanib Camp, Location Image 1

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is located in the Damaraland North area of northwest Namibia.

Damaraland North

Damaraland North is the start of the wildest and most remote region of the country. It comprises a network of very large tracts of wilderness in which a handful of pioneering lodge owners work in partnership with local communities to provide sustainable conservation for some very unique and special ecosystems.

The area contains Africa's only non-reintroduced population of black rhinos, along with elephants, giraffes, zebras, kudus, oryx, and ostriches. There are also lions, brown hyenas, leopards, caracals and cheetahs here, although they are rather more elusive. 

It is a truly wonderful area for safari, especially for more experienced Africa travellers, who do not have the need for sightings at every turn.

Hoanib Valley

The remote and inaccessible Hoanib Valley is an area of remarkable and atmospheric desert landscapes, centred on the ephemeral Hoanib River, whose canyon dramatically cuts a path through ranges of granite hills before passing underneath an enormous dune sea on the way to the coast.

Although this river only tends to flow quite rarely, the sub-surface water encourages significant flora to exist along its course which, along with the occasional waterholes, manages to sustain an unusual wealth of desert wildlife. The wildlife viewing in the Hoanib Valley is as good as any in the country and is best known for its populations of desert elephants, Angolan giraffes and rare desert lions. The Hoanib Valley is an awesome location. When you see those fabulous BBC Wildlife documentaries about desert elephants, lions and giraffes, this is where most of them were filmed.

Set in the fabulously remote lower Hoanib Valley in the Damaraland North area of northwest Namibia, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a fabulous high-end option, with guest accommodation in 9 rooms and offering a superb range of well-guided safari and desert experiences, notably including the Skeleton Coast.

Getting there

The property is can only be accessed by light aircraft as part of a flying safari around other similarly remote and high quality locations.

We usually include all the connecting transport for your trip unless  you specifically ask us not to.

Hoanib Camp, Camp

The camp is centred on chic main mess, leading out to a small swimming pool.

Hoanib Camp, Camp Image 1

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is operated by Wilderness Safaris, an excellent company which is widely recognised one of the market leaders in Africa.

Their portfolio of around 40 camps extends across Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Rwanda. They range from super-luxury lodge to relatively simple bush camps, mostly towards the upper end of the price range in each area.

The logistical operation that they run is remarkable, they really have mastered the art of reliable and consistent delivery of a very complex product in very challenging environments. The inevitable downside is that their properties can be slightly lacking in individual character and the safari experience can sometimes be a little too gentle for some guests.

Their properties include ...

Botswana : Central Kalahari : Kalahari Plains Camp Botswana : Linyanti East : Duma Tau Camp Botswana : Linyanti East : Kings Pool Camp Botswana : Linyanti East : Linyanti Adventurer Camp Botswana : Linyanti East : Linyanti Tented Camp Botswana : Linyanti East : Linyanti Savuti Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Abu Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Chitabe Lediba Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Chitabe Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Jao Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Jacana Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Kwetsani Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Little Mombo Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Little Tubu Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Little Vumbura Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Mombo Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Pelo Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Qorokwe Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Seba Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Tubu Tree Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Vumbura Plains Camp Botswana : Okavango Delta : Xigera Camp Kenya : Laikipia South : Segera Retreat Namibia : Damaraland North : Desert Rhino Camp Namibia : Damaraland North : Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp Namibia : Kaokaland West : Serra Cafema Camp Namibia : Sossusvlei : Kulala Desert Lodge Namibia : Sossusvlei : Little Kulala Lodge Namibia : Twyfelfontein : Damaraland Camp Namibia : Twyfelfontein : Doro Nawas Camp Rwanda : Akagera : Magashi Camp Rwanda : Virunga Mountains : Bisate Lodge Seychelles : North Island Lodge Zambia : Kafue : Busanga Bushcamp Zambia : Kafue : Shumba Camp Zambia : Livingstone : Toka Leya Zimbabwe : Hwange : Davisons Camp Zimbabwe : Hwange : Linkwasha Camp Zimbabwe : Hwange : Little Makalolo Camp Zimbabwe : Mana Pools : Chikwenya Camp Zimbabwe : Mana Pools : Little Ruckomechi Camp Zimbabwe : Mana Pools : Ruckomechi Camp

The company operates an extensive range of philanthropic and conservation projects, some of which relate specifically to this camp.

Wilderness Safaris does not sell direct to market, so their camps have to be booked through a specialist safari agency such as our own.

This is a very comfortable and stylish tented camp, centred on extensive public areas under a geodesic canvas roof. There is also a modest swimming pool and a decent campfire.

Guest accommodation is in eight very large and comfortable tented suites, which are specially designed to maintain comfort levels in and area where there can be a huge range between day and night temperatures.

Conservation

It is very important to realise that your visit has an immediate impact on conservation here.

This Palmwag Conservancy, with its critically endangered rhinos and other wildlife, is funded and maintained directly by the revenues generated by the handful of small lodges here.

This is a prime example of conservation through tourism.

Dining options

The food service at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is usually very high quality.

Meals are sometimes served at separate tables in conventional restaurant style, whilst at other times a single large dining table is used, usually hosted by managers and guides. Private tables and special meals can usually be accommodated.

Bush meals, picnics and sundowner drinks are also a possibility.

Special diets such as vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, kosher and other variations should not be a problem, so long as you let us know at the time of booking.

Power and connectivity

The property has a solar power and battery system and high current items such as hair-dryers cannot be used.

Electricity across Africa is 230Vac and 50Hz. These days most electronic devices are designed to cope with this, but do check your equipment specifications if your voltage or frequency differs back home, notably travellers from USA and Canada.

There are power outlets in the rooms for charging of electronic equipment, with South African standard three large circular pin format (type M). Adaptors are usually available, but it is always worth bringing your own, in which case we recommend buying them in advance rather than trying to get them at the airport on the way, since they often run out.

WiFi is not available at this property, but there is internet connection in staff quarters, which can be used by guests in the event of an emergency only. This is very much a deliberate decision by the owners, who strongly believe that the safari experience is far deeper and more enjoyable when internet useage is kept to a minimum and preferably out of sight of other guests. We generally applaud this position, but if you would prefer to be in a camp with internet connectivity then please let us know and we will find you more suitable options.

There is unlikely to be any mobile phone reception in this location.

Child policy

The minimum child age at this property is 12 years.

Children 6-11 are accepted but a private safari vehicle has to be booked at significant additional cost. Younger children can only be accommodated with a whole camp booking.

The property is not specifically geared up for children, is unfenced and could be potentially very dangerous, mainly due to wild animals. Adult supervision is essential at all times.

Although the staff and guides will naturally try to tailor the experience to suit all guests, there are no special facilities for children, who are obliged to behave with due consideration for other guests.

There may be higher age limits on certain more risky activities.

Tipping guide

In Africa tipping is definitely not obligatory, but it is commonplace. If you feel that the service provided has been excellent, then you may consider giving tips as follows ...

Lead guide : USD 10 per guest per day Assistant guide or tracker : USD 5 per guest per day Camp staff : USD 5 per guest per day

Staff understand that guests of different nationalities come very different tipping cultures and adjust their expectations accordingly, so you really should tip as you feel comfortable.

Tips are usually given in cash, preferably in the currencies listed below. Where card payments are accepted, then it is often possible to settle tips by bank card.

The currency in Namibia is the Namibian Dollar. Approximate exchange rate : USD 1 = NAD 14.5. Unusually for an African currency, the Namibian Dollar is pinned to the South African Rand (ZAR) and can usually be exchanged back into hard currency, which means that it is widely used.

Any extra payments at this property can be made on some common cards or in cash USD, EUR, GBP, ZAR and NAD (Namibian Dollar). There are no currency exchange facilities.

Hoanib Camp, Suite

Guest accommodation is in seven large tented Suite Rooms ...

Hoanib Camp, Suite Image 1

... plus a Family Suite with two bedrooms separated by an outside lounge.

Hoanib Camp, Evening

Activities include vehicle safari, walking safari, coast visits and bush meals.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp provides access to a good range of guided safari activities ...

Vehicle safari

Vehicle safari is the main activity at this camp, mainly focused on the search for the desert wildlife.

This ribbon of green that runs through the desert can only sustain a limited number of animals. Elephant and giraffe numbers are restricted to around 20-30 of each species, which means that during the course of a visit you can really get to know the different family groups and outstanding individuals.

Other common animals along the river include steenboks, baboons, African wild cats, jackals and various birds. More elusive sightings include brown hyenas, leopards and even caracals.

On the higher and more arid mountain and plateau areas between the ephemeral rivers, the most famous residents are the black rhinos, the only free-ranging non-reintroduced population in Africa. This is one of their great strongholds and the local communities go to great length to provide them with the protection that they need, even out here, from the threat of poaching.

These arid areas are also home to good numbers of springboks, oryx and kudus in particular.

This whole region is renowned for its population of rare desert-adapted lions, whose vast home ranges and unpredictable habits make them very difficult to find with any reliability. However the Hoanib Valley is one of their most favoured locations and sightings are relatively reliable, the camps report an average of once or twice per week. We have actually had more joy finding lions here than in Etosha and the thrill of spending time with such elusive and genuinely wild predators is far more rewarding. We have also often lain in bed here and listened as the lions roar their way up and down the river bed through the night.

The camp is surrounded by an exclusive use private concession area which includes the last few kilometres of the Hoanib River Valley before it enters the national park. Vehicle safari is also operated in the open access sections of the valley upstream, depending on the movements of the various animals, where a few other vehicles may be encountered.

The Skeleton Coast

A major highlight of a stay at Hoanib Camp is the day trip out to the Skeleton Coast.

The greatest miracle of Namibia is the juxtaposition of the searing hot desert and the cold Atlantic Ocean, which gives rise to a remarkable range of habitats, ecosystems and wildlife.

After taking breakfast alongside elephants and giraffes close to camp, you spend the morning passing through an enormous dune sea, to find yourself by lunchtime shrouded in thick fog alongside and angry grey ocean and an enormous colony of seals.

This truly is one of the great African journeys.

Other highlights along the way include a remarkable floodplain downstream which is carpeted in greenery, a favourite haunt for the local elephants and absolutely infested with various rodents. We understand that this bounty attracts large numbers of caracals, African wild cats and various snakes, although the only predators we have personally sighted here are various birds of prey.

After passing through an area of gorgeous and impressive sand dunes, the track suddenly happens on a truly extraordinary oasis, a large lake of freshwater amidst a sea of sand and circles by reedbeds which resonate with the twittering of waterfowl and no doubt host a range of elusive animals. We understand that this a favourite haunt of the desert lions. The BBC famously recorded footage of the elephants gliding down the sand dunes into the water, but we are yet to see them this far downstream.

Across a broad gravel plain lies the coastline at Mowe Bay, where there is a remote ranger station and a small and rather ramshackle museum which nonetheless contains some items of considerable interest to the naturalist.

The Atlantic Ocean here is grey and angry, the onshore winds relentless. It is a harsh and inhospitable place, whose beaches are littered with the bones of whales, the carcasses of shipwrecks and the ruins of abandoned diamond operations.

This angry ocean is cold, with powerful currents driving the waters north from the Antarctic. Virtually every night the onshore winds bring with them a heavy blanket of fog, which can penetrate 10 to 20 kilometres inland. The fog usually arises offshore and reaches land before sunset, burning off by mid-morning. The remainder of the day is usually clear and sunny, as you would expect in a desert.

This unique coastal climate has been this way for millenia and has given rise to a host of specially adapted flora and fauna, including many species of succulent plants and tok-tokkie beetles who climb to the top of the dunes and stick their bums in the air so that the fog can condense on their carapaces are be channeled to their mouths.

Where the desert is harsh and lightly populated, the cold waters offshore are absolutely packed with life. There are shoals of large fish, whales, dolphins and leatherback turtles out there.

The wealth of oceanic life is evidenced by the extent of the seal colony at Mowe Bay, which may only be a fraction of the size of the one further north at Cape Fria, but which is remarkable nonetheless. To travel through such a stark desert zone and then be confronted by such an intense, noisy and stinky glut of life is shocking.

The seal colony provides easy pickings for jackals and brown hyenas, both of which can regularly be seen wandering in and picking off the pups with ease. Even lions are said to sometimes raid this natural larder, although we have never seen photographic evidence to back this up.

The journey out to the coast is a long and bumpy ride, usually taking 3-4 hours, so it can come as some relief to find that the return journey can usually be carried out by air, using the camp's dedicated plane.

It's really fun to review the whole journey from the air and the pilot is usually able to fly low to view elephants and giraffes along the way.

Walking safari

In this particular area conventional walking safari, with deliberate attempts to approach wildlife on foot, tends not to be the main order of the day. The animals in this area tend to be very wary and unpredictable.

But walking is very much possible, we have had some wonderful experiences here.

Our favourite option is to stop the vehicle and scale a small hill or rocky outcrop, taking up position above the river and watching the wildlife from there. This can be a surprisingly deep experience, especially if you are able to detached yourself from the group and sit alone on the hillside. Even being 20 to 30 metres away from other people will provide you with a much more intimate and involving experience.

Away from the river, where the risks from wildlife are much reduced, longer hikes are very much possible. We have enjoyed scaling some significant mountains in this area, they are surprisingly easy to get up.

We have found that the guides at Hoanib Camp tend to be rather slow in offering walking and hiking options, so you might have to be proactive in getting these experiences included in your stay.

Desert lion project

The camp works in partnership with the Desert Lion Conservation project, which has been largely responsible for the protection of this rare population of truly free-roaming predators.

The project has a number of lions fitted with radio-collars and keeps a close eye on their movements, helping to monitor their movements in an attempt to minimise any conflict with the pastoral communities to the east.

It is an absolutely fascinating project, some of the behaviours these cats demonstrate in order to survive in these harsh environs are truly remarkable.

Your guide may be able to establish radio contact with the rangers and bring you in to view the lions, although distances and times are closely controlled in order to protect them from over-exposure.

Although the project has a permanent base here, the project leader, Dr Flip Stander, is notoriously independent and the camp is unable to guarantee his presence on any given day, nor that of any of the project helpers. If you do get lucky and get to spend time with him, then you will hopefully feel suitably privileged.

We strongly recommend that you purchase at least one copy of his book, Vanishing Kings, which really is a superb read.

Brown hyena project

The camp also hosts a brown hyena research project and guests may well be able to meet and talk with the rather more accessible head researcher Emsie Verwey, who has been in the area many years, having previously managed Desert Rhino Camp and Hoanib Camp. 

Brown hyenas are desert specialists and are a good deal more rare and elusive than their spotted hyena cousins.

The project focuses on three different groups of brown hyenas, the Hoanib Clan, the Floodplain Clan and the Skeleton Coast Clan. The primary intention is to learn more about the basics of brown hyena habits, such as the extent of their home ranges, their social interaction and breeding habits.

Hoanib Camp, Vehicle Safari

The primary activity is vehicle safari in the main riverbed, with highlights including desert elephants, giraffes, lions and brown hyenas.

Hoanib Camp, Walking Safari

Walking safari usually involves scaling hillsides above the valley to watch animals below.

Hoanib Camp, Lower Hoanib

The drive down the Hoanib river and out to the coast is simply epic.

Hoanib Camp, Skeleton Coast

The Hoanib reaches the coast at Mowe Bay, where there is a ranger post and seal colony.

Hoanib Camp, Seasonality

The landscapes are usually best during the May-Nov dry season, although there are very good reasons to visit during other months.

Hoanib Camp, Downsides

The main potential downsides are the very high prices, lack of availability, outdoorsy activities, naturally sparse desert wildlife especially during Dec-Apr and very high temperatures Oct-Dec.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, like all properties, has a long list of potential downsides. Please do not be unnecessarily put off by this section. Our only intention in raising these issues is to ensure that you get to the best and most appropriate places and that your expectations are met and hopefully exceeded ...

High prices

The main problem with this property from most people's perspective are the extremely high prices during the main safari seasons.

Relative to other properties in this area, it is certainly towards the top end of the range. There is little disputing the quality here, but there is a very significant premium to pay for the privilege.

Rates during low seasons may be considerably lower, so that may be worth considering. Check the seasonality section above for more details.

It is worth noting that there are sometimes long stay discounts available, as well as discounts for combining with other camps under the same ownership. Please ask us for more information.

Lack of availability

Shortage of room availability is often a major issue when planning a safari.

The best lodges in Namibia are heavily over-demanded during the main Jun-Oct and Dec-Jan seasons. Finding the right availability to string together to make a continuous trip can be an absolute nightmare, so much so that we are often obliged to turn people away.

It really is best to book at least a year ahead if you want to be sure to get space in the very best properties.

Misleading camp name

We do feel that the full name, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, is potentially misleading. This camp is a long way from the coast and is outside the Skeleton Coast National Park. However it can provide access to the coast for one day during your stay, as described in the activities section above.

Internet connection

We were very upset to discover that internet connection is provided in the main building. We feel that this has a major negative effect on the atmosphere of a camp, with guests sitting around on their phones. Internet access, if provided at all, should be made available either at a separate location or in the rooms.

Shared safari

In this camp separate groups of guests are often obliged to join together when out on safari. This is not necessarily a negative, sometimes it can be a great chance to get to meet some very interesting people and the best camp managers usually work hard to ensure guest compatibility. But some guests do find it to be a considerable negative.

The issue can be officially side-stepped by paying a private safari supplement, but this bumps the cost considerably.

Lots of bumpy roads

If you want to make the most of a visit to this area, then you really do need to be ready to put in the hard road miles. The tracks here can be pretty rough. If you are up for it, then every day can be an epic adventure. 

But if you find the prospect of bumping along in a vehicle for several hours each day rather less than attractive, then this might not be the ideal place to include in your trip.

Closed vehicles

Unfortunately Hoanib Camp only operates closed safari vehicles, which is not ideal for wildlife viewing and is a stark contrast with the vehicles used at the nearby Hoanib Valley Camp, which are not only open, but also have rather cool roof seats.

The reason for this is that open vehicles are not permitted inside the adjacent Skeleton Coast National Park, which the camp visits on regular expeditions to the Atlantic Ocean.

However we strongly feel that a property of this quality could and should maintain a fleet of both closed and open vehicles in order to optimise the various experiences.

Subtle wildlife experience

It is important to realise that wildlife is naturally sparse out here in the desert, you may have to go for long periods between sightings and there is a relatively low chance of predator action (although the lions are being seen relatively regularly now).

By the end of a long day you will most likely have clocked up a good collection of sightings, but you will certainly feel that you have earned them.

You will not see the volume of animals that you would see in naturally richer areas like Etosha or Okavango Delta. This place is something completely different and, in our opinion, much more unique and interesting.

But it may be that the whole experience is better suited to more experienced safari travellers, who tend not to have that same anxiety about the need for big sightings.

Vehicle traffic

Despite this being a very remote area, there is one other camp in the valley and mobile safari operators also occasionally pass through. In our experience there are rarely more than a half dozen vehicles in the valley on any given day, but they do naturally cluster in the riverbed and around the elephant herds.

This traffic is rarely a significant issue, but it does slightly undermine the sense of utter isolation that one might otherwise expect in somewhere so remote.

Inappropriate guests

One of our biggest concerns at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is that it is commonly incorrectly sold and some guests arrive here expecting a safari filled with the usual quota of animals.

The safari activities here in the desert are subtle and can be relatively tough, we are talking about long days out on the vehicle with only intermittent wildlife sightings.

In our experience the kind of guest who is attracted to the more glamorous aspects of the camp design is also the most likely to not enjoy the experience here and can potentially to ruin it for everyone else.

We have met people in these most remote and fantastic parts of Namibia who have been only vaguely aware of what country they are in and are more focused on the quality of the food and linen than they are about the environment.

The camp appears to have made a rod for its own back in this respect, let us just hope that we can propagate the correct information about the true nature of the experience here so that people know in advance what to expect.

Weaker seasons for wildlife

The wildlife here is naturally sparse and the desert elephants in particular can prove elusive. When it rains, which is most likely between January and March, the animals can disperse away from the river in search of grazing, which can make wildlife viewing a real challenge.

Weaker Skeleton Coast experience

For all the top billing about the access to the 'remote' Skeleton Coast that this camp provides, the reality is that this particular segment around Mowe Bay is not so very remote.

True it is not open to the general public, but there is a ranger and research post here, a small settlement. Even down at the sea lion colony there are places to park marked out with rocks.

Most people will still enjoy the place, but to those of us who have been lucky to access the really wild parts of the coast further north from here, home to the now defunct Skeleton Coast Camp which this place replaced, it is not the same.

Having said that, the overland route between the camp and the coast does pass through some really excellent terrain, especially around the remote oases.

If you want the full fat Skeleton Coast experience, then we recommend that you look to combine with either Shipwreck Lodge or go on one of our fabulous Skeleton Coast Expeditions.

Desert Lion Conservation

We have also been disappointed by the lack of access that guests have to the Desert Lion Conservation team.

The original intention was that the camp would work very closely with this organisation and guest would really get an immersive experience, meeting key staff and learning all about their work.

This plan has not yet come to full fruition, but will hopefully develop as time goes on.

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  2. Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, Palmwag Concession, Namibia

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  3. Hoanib Valley Camp

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COMMENTS

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  7. Review: Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp (Namibia)

    Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is one of the most remotely located lodges on earth (which is part of its appeal). The camp is only accessible by light aircraft and the transfers are taken care of by Wilderness Safaris through its partner Wilderness Air. Wilderness Air began operating in 1991, with one aircraft based in Botswana servicing two camps ...

  8. Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

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  23. HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP

    Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp - located in the private Palmwag Concession straddling the Palmwag area and Skeleton Coast National Park, the camp is set in a land of stark mountains, vast plains, and dry riverbeds inhabited by wildlife that has adapted seemingly miraculously to the arid conditions. ... Wilderness Safaris looks forward to doing ...