Bicycle Stories

Mastering Gear Shifts: A Step-by-Step Guide for Trek Road Bikes

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Rony Tushar

June 18, 2023

To change gears on a trek road bike, use the left shifter to shift the front gears and the right shifter to shift the rear gears. Now, let’s explore how to effectively change gears on your trek road bike with a step-by-step guide.

Riding a bike is a great way to enjoy some exercise while getting to your destination. A trek road bike is a great option for anyone interested in road biking, as it is designed with performance and comfort in mind.

Changing gears while riding can make your journey smoother and ensure that you are efficiently using your bike’s power. However, it can be intimidating for beginners to know when and how to shift gears. With a basic understanding of gear shifting, anyone can easily and effectively change gears on their trek road bike.

Mastering Gear Shifts: A Step-by-Step Guide for Trek Road Bikes

Credit: cyclingmagazine.ca

Table of Contents

Understanding The Different Gears On Your Trek Road Bike

Riding a bike is a fun and healthy way to get exercise, but it can be intimidating for beginners to navigate all of the gear options. Understanding the different gears on your trek road bike can make a big difference in your ride experience and help you get the most out of your workout.

Here are some key points to keep in mind:

  • Your trek road bike has multiple gears that can be adjusted using the shifters on your handlebars. These gears control how much resistance you face when pedaling, allowing you to tackle hills and inclines more easily or pick up speed on flat terrain.
  • The most common type of gears on a road bike are called “derailleur gears”. These gears work by moving your bike’s chain from one sprocket to another in order to adjust the resistance you feel when pedaling.
  • Understanding how to shift gears properly is essential to get the most out of your ride. Shifting too quickly or too often can cause your chain to fall off, while not shifting enough can make it difficult to pedal on hills or increase your speed.
  • Once you get used to using your bike’s gears, you’ll be able to get a feel for which gear is appropriate for different riding situations. For example, you’ll want to use a lower gear for uphill climbs and a higher gear for downhill descents or flat terrain.

Understanding The Gear Ratios And How They Affect Your Ride

Each gear on your trek road bike has a different ratio that determines how much your bike’s wheel will turn with each pedal stroke. In general, higher gears (i. e. , those with a higher numerical ratio) will provide more forward momentum with each pedal stroke, while lower gears (i.

e. , those with a lower numerical ratio) will provide less forward momentum but more control and power.

Here are some key points to keep in mind when thinking about gear ratios:

  • Understanding your bike’s gear ratio is important because it can affect your pedaling cadence, making it either more difficult or easier to pedal at a given speed.
  • Switching to a higher gear ratio can help you go faster, but it will also make it harder to pedal and may cause you to tire more quickly.
  • On the other hand, using a lower gear ratio can help you tackle steep hills or provide greater control when navigating tricky terrain.
  • Ultimately, the best gear ratio for your ride will depend on the terrain, incline, wind conditions, and your own physical ability and comfort level.

The Benefits Of Using The Correct Gear For Different Terrains And Inclines

Using your trek road bike’s gears properly can make a big difference in your riding experience and help you get the most out of your workout. Here are some key benefits of using the correct gear for different terrains and inclines:

  • Better efficiency: Using the right gear can help you maintain a consistent pedal cadence and conserve your energy, which can help you ride longer and more effectively.
  • Increased speed: Shifting to a higher gear can help you pick up speed on flat terrain and enjoy a more efficient ride.
  • Enhanced control: Using a lower gear can help you navigate steep hills or technical terrain safely and with greater control.
  • Less risk of injury: Using the correct gear can reduce strain on your joints and muscles, which can help prevent injury and allow you to ride pain-free.

Overall, understanding how to use the gears on your trek road bike can make a big difference in your riding experience. With practice and experience, you’ll be able to master shifting gears and choose the right gear for any given ride, allowing you to enjoy the benefits of cycling to the fullest!

Getting Started With Gear Shifting

A trek road bike is an exceptional bike for enthusiasts who love speed and adventure. Changing gears on a trek road bike is an essential skill that any rider should possess. Proper gear shifting is vital to ensure a smooth ride and avoid any unnecessary strain on the body.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to get you started:

Proper Hand Placement On Handlebars For Shifting

  • Place both hands on the handlebars, positioning your fingers around them, with your thumbs underneath them.
  • The right hand triggers the rear derailleur which controls the bike’s cassette gears.
  • The left hand controls the front derailleur and is responsible for gear changes of the chainrings.

Understanding The Gear Indicators And How To Read Them

  • Before changing gears, take note of the gear indicator found on the handlebars.
  • The gear indicator will display which gear chainring and cassette gear you are currently using.
  • The chainrings are the larger gears next to the pedals, whereas the cassette gears are the smaller cogs on the rear wheel.
  • Higher gears are indicated by higher numbers, whereas lower gears are indicated by lower numbers.

Tips For Making Smooth Gear Transitions While Riding

  • Change gears before you need to. Don’t wait until a steep hill or a sprint to shift, plan ahead and choose the correct gear in advance.
  • When shifting, stop pedaling for a moment, shift gears, and start pedaling again.
  • During gear transitions, ensure that there’s minimal power transfer through the pedals. This minimizes gear slippage and chain wear.
  • Using a single-gear shift at a time ensures a smoother ride and reduces the likelihood of chain and derailleur malfunctions.
  • Avoid cross-chaining, a situation where you use the smallest chainring in the front and the smallest cassette gear in the back, or the largest chainring in the front and the largest cassette gear in the back. This puts unnecessary pressure on the bike’s chain, causes wear, and reduces its lifespan.

Changing gears on a trek road bike is a fundamental skill, but with practice, it becomes second nature. Remember to shift smoothly, choosing the right gear for the terrain, and anticipate changes before you start to climb or sprint. Happy cycling!

Mastering Gear Shifts For Uphill And Downhill Terrain

Changing gears on a trek road bike can seem challenging, but with adequate knowledge and practice, it can be a breeze. Mastering gear shifts for uphill and downhill terrain requires familiarity with the various gears available, the terrain, and your individual fitness level.

In this blog post, we’ll discuss three strategies for tackling hilly terrain and adapting your gears to them: techniques for tackling steep uphill climbs, adjusting gears for downhill descents, and strategies for maintaining speed and control on hilly terrain.

Techniques For Tackling Steep Uphill Climbs

When it comes to uphill climbs with a road bike, things can get tough, but with the right technique and gear selection, you can make it through. Here are some key points:

  • Always shift to a lower gear before starting an uphill climb to allow easy pedaling.
  • Keep a steady, comfortable pace, and try to maintain it until the end of the climb.
  • Keep your body weight centered on the bike, and avoid leaning too far forward or backward.
  • Keep your upper body relaxed and focused on breathing.
  • Use your gears wisely by shifting up gradually as you gain momentum.

Adjusting Gears For Downhill Descents

Descending hills at high speeds can be thrilling, but it can also be dangerous if you don’t control your speed. With these key points, you can have a safe and enjoyable descent:

  • Shift into a higher gear to avoid excessive pedaling and maintain speed.
  • Keep your body weight centered on the bike and your arms relaxed.
  • Focus on the road ahead, anticipate turns, and brake in advance to maintain control.
  • Shift your weight back slightly to maintain balance on steep descents.
  • Use your gears wisely by shifting down gradually as you slow down.

Strategies For Maintaining Speed And Control On Hilly Terrain

When facing hilly terrain, maintaining speed and control can seem like a daunting task. However, with these key points, you can handle it with ease:

  • Be mindful of your energy levels and adjust your gears accordingly.
  • Keep a steady cadence by shifting gears as necessary to prevent muscle fatigue.
  • Anticipate the terrain ahead and shift gears in advance to maintain momentum and speed.
  • Stay hydrated, fueled, and focused on the ride, and take breaks when necessary.
  • Seek professional help if you struggle with gear selection.

By mastering these gear shifting techniques, you can become a pro at tackling uphill and downhill terrain. With patience, practice, and dedication, you will become more confident and have a fantastic riding experience. Remember to always prioritize safety, and don’t push yourself beyond your limits.

Now it’s over to you – get out there, enjoy the ride, and conquer those hills!

Troubleshooting Gear Shifting Problems

Changing gears on a trek road bike takes practice and a little bit of know-how. However, even with practice, sometimes gear shifting problems pop up, which can be frustrating. In this section, we will focus on some tips to troubleshoot these issues.

Common Gear Shifting Issues And Their Causes

  • Misaligned derailleur hanger: Shifting issues often occur due to not aligning the rear derailleur hanger properly, which can cause the chain to slip or make a grinding noise.
  • Worn-out shift cables and housing: Old shift cables can stretch, fray, or become stiff, leading to inconsistent or sluggish gear changes.
  • Poorly adjusted limit screws: Limit screws control the range of motion of your derailleur. If they’re not correctly adjusted, the chain can rub or fall off the cassette.
  • Dirty chain: Grime and dirt buildup can cause your chain to shift poorly, so make sure to clean and lubricate it often.

Tips For Adjusting And Maintaining Your Bike’S Shifting Mechanism

  • Check the gear shift index: Check your gear index by shifting up and down while pedaling your bike. If you notice a delay in the gear changing process or hear any clicking noise, it means the shift indexing is off, and you need to adjust it.
  • Adjust the limit screws: Adjust both high and low limit screws of the gully to ensure the bike stays in gear before and after each shift.
  • Lubricate the cables and housing: Lubricating the shift cables and housing helps keep the shifting mechanism smooth, consistent, and friction-free.
  • Keep the chain clean: Regularly clean and lubricate the chain to keep the shifting mechanism working correctly.

Knowing When To Seek Professional Help For Gear-Related Issues

Sometimes, gear issues are too tricky or require more complicated fixes, which are best left to professionals. Here are some scenarios in which you should consider seeking professional help.

  • Excessive chain skipping while shifting
  • Difficulty downshifting, especially under load
  • Loose or wobbling derailleur
  • Damaged or bent derailleur

By following these simple tips and tricks, you can keep your trek road bike shifting correctly and smoothly.

Frequently Asked Questions On How To Change Gears On A Trek Road Bike

How many gears does a trek road bike have.

Most trek road bikes come equipped with either 18 or 22 gears.

How Do I Know When To Change Gears?

You should change gears when you feel resistance or find it difficult to pedal.

How Can I Change Gears Smoothly On My Trek Road Bike?

Shift gears one at a time, using light pressure to avoid chain slipping or breakage.

What Gear Should I Use For Uphill Climbs?

Use a lower gear for uphill climbs to make pedaling easier and prevent fatigue.

Changing gears on a trek road bike is a necessary skill to have when cycling. It’s important to understand how to shift gears properly to ensure a smooth ride and avoid any potential damage to the bike. With these simple steps, you can quickly and easily change gears on your trek road bike.

Remember to keep pedaling while shifting gears, and make small adjustments to the chain to avoid abrupt changes. Pay attention to the terrain and adjust gears accordingly. With practice, you’ll be able to change gears naturally and intuitively without even thinking about it.

So, don’t be intimidated by the gears on your trek road bike. Take it step by step and soon you’ll be shifting gears like a pro. Happy biking!

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Shifting Gears The ins and outs of using your gears effectively When you hear that a bicycle has "ten" or "twenty-seven" gears, it sounds complicated. It really just means that there are plenty of gears and that you'll have an easy time pedaling your bike regardless of what the road or trail throws at you. Still, having all those gears is daunting. You wonder which to use and how often to shift. Well, to put your mind at rest and have you shifting like a pro in no time, we've prepared this easy guide. You're The Engine One of the main sources of confusion is thinking of bicycle shifting in car terms. Bikes aren't shifted like cars. You don't start in first gear, shift into second, and so on. Instead, you shift by how your legs and lungs feel. As the engine for the bike, you're most efficient pedaling at a steady and maintainable pace (called "cadence," or the number of times one foot goes around in a minute). For most people a cadence of about sixty to seventy rpm (revolutions per minute) feels comfortable. Once you're pedaling comfortably, you shift gears every time you feel your legs starting to strain or spin too quickly. For the former, you shift to an easier gear. For the latter, you shift into a harder one. In other words, there's no right or wrong gear to be in. Just use the one that feels right for your legs and breathing at the time. This means that, unless you live where all the rides are pancake flat, you're shifting a lot to keep your pedaling cadence and riding effort steady, which ensure that you complete your rides comfortably. Changing Gears You probably already know that you must pedal in order to shift. And it's also important to ease the pressure off the pedals during the gear change. This makes the shift smoother and prevents possible drivetrain glitches. In order to do this on a hill, anticipate the steep section and shift into an easier gear before you get there. Shifting is done by moving the shift levers. You shift when your legs are working too hard or spinning too fast because conditions have changed. To make a good shift, all you need to know is whether you want to make it easier or harder to pedal and by how much. How do you know which lever to shift (never shift them simultaneously)? The right lever makes small differences in pedaling effort and is usually clicked once or several times. Shifting this lever moves the chain across the cluster of cogs on the rear wheel. On a newer bike, there are eight or nine cogs and they only vary slightly in size. The larger the cog, the easier it is to pedal and vice versa. Contrarily, the left lever makes larger differences in effort. Use it to make it considerably harder or easier to pedal. Operating this lever moves the chain between the two or three chainrings on the front of your drivetrain. Here, the larger the ring, the harder it is to pedal and vice versa. One way to remember where you are in the gears: When the chain is closer to the bike, front or rear, you're in your easier gears. As the chain shifts away from the bike (to the right), the gears get harder. A Shifting Example So, a short ride might go something like this: You roll out of your garage and start pedaling and find the going too difficult. You click the right lever once but it's still way too hard. So, you shift the left lever, which makes it much easier and lets you spin your legs at a good pace. You cruise toward the lake feeling fine but then your legs get heavy. A headwind! You shift the right lever twice and find a good rhythm again. Toward the backside of the lake, there's a short steep climb. You shift the right lever each time the hill steepens until you're in your easiest gear. Cresting the hill, it's all downhill home with a tailwind. Yes! You pick up speed quickly. You keep pedaling to match the wind's speed and get the workout. You shift the right lever but need a larger change so you shift the left and head for home lickety-split. You'll get better at shifting with practice so don't be afraid to shift a lot. You can't hurt the gears and it's the best way to familiarize yourself with them. After a few rides, shifting will become natural and you won't even think about it and all those gears (except for being glad every time the road heads uphill).

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Shifting 101 - A How To Guide on Shifting Bike Gears

7 minute read.

Shifting the gears on a bicycle can be a daunting task at first, with a lot of numbers and two derailleurs to keep track of. In addition to braking, shifting gears on a bike is one of the fundamental mechanical functions of the bike. Learning how to effectively shift gears is a basic skill that continues to grow and improve even for veteran riders. Proper shifting will increase speed, reduce rider fatigue, and improve endurance.

Quick Lesson

Ok, here is the most important thing to remember while riding any bike: THERE IS NO PERFECT GEAR! SHIFT! So often, we see people putting too much power into their pedals as they climb up a steep hill in the big chain ring or legs flailing as they spin out on a gear that is too easy for the descent they are riding. Your goal while riding should be to keep a cadence (the speed at which your pedals make a full rotation) that as consistent as possible! To do that, it requires one of two things: shifting or increased power output. The thing about power output is, unless you are wonder woman, you have a limited supply. We suggest shifting often for increased efficiency while riding. Climbing While Shifting Liv’s Tip: Begin to shift into easier gears with your right hand early to keep a steady cadence. Remember, your right hand is for small changes in the terrain. If you find that your pedaling pace is slowing drastically, you will likely need to use the front derailleur (your left hand) to make the gearing much easier for the big climb ahead. But, if you are already climbing up the hill and putting a ton of power down on the pedals, you might notice your front derailleur doesn’t want to work! You will shift, hear a grinding noise but nothing will happen and you will likely come to a stop in the middle of the hill. Instead of grinding those gears, you will need to put a little more power into your pedal stroke right before you shift then, lighten up on your pedal stroke as you shift. With less pressure on your chain, your derailleur will have an easier time popping your chain off the big ring and into a smaller one!

-Liv Cycling

Bike Gear Shifting 101

Maintenance

Is your bike ready to roll? Maintaining and cleaning your bike is essential to keep everything running smoothly, including your shifting. Bike maintenance is a breeze with the right equipment. From multi-tools and degreasers to professional work stands, grab the tools you need to get the job done right. Service that drive train, dial in those brakes and hit it hard this season!

Bicycle Gears

The terminology surrounding bicycle gearing is half of the struggle when getting used to how a bicycle's gears work. Terms such as low, high, big, small, easy, hard, fast, slow, front, rear, and one-by, two-by, and three-by create confusion and make it difficult to understand what's going on. Let's break it down.

The low gear is the "easy" gear and is primarily used when climbing. The low gear is the smallest chain ring in the front, and the largest cog on the rear cassette. In this position pedaling will be easiest and the least amount of force will be required to push the pedals. Moving from high to low gear is called "downshifting".

The high gear is the "hard" gear and is primarily used when descending and sprinting. The high gear is the largest chain ring in the front and the smallest cog on the rear cassette. This achieves the most difficult pedaling position and requires the most force to push the pedals. Moving from low to high gear is called "upshifting".

The number of chain rings in the front of your bike determine what type of drivetrain you are running. Referred to as "one-by", "two-by", and "three-by". As the cycling industry has developed the trend has moved from three-by being the standard to most road bikes running two-by and mountain bikes running one-by's. This is able to be achieved by increasing the size and range of the rear cassette, allowing for a wider range of gears without the need for additional chain rings. By eliminating chain rings the bike becomes more efficient and has less room for mechanical error while under load.

___-Speed Bike

7, 18, 21-speed etc. We've all bragged about how many speeds are bike has. What exactly is the number referring to when a bike is considered a "21-speed"? Well this number is determined by multiplying the number of cogs on the rear cassette by the number of chain rings in the front. For example if a bike has two chain rings in the front, and eleven cogs in the cassette, then you are working with a 21-speed bicycle. Due to the popularity of 2-by and 1-by drivetrains it is no longer common to refer to bikes in this manner, as sometimes more gears is not the better setup in every situation.

How to Shift

With a basic understanding of the drivetrain system and how gears work now it's time to dive into how exactly your change from one gear to the next. The action of swapping the chain from one chain ring or cog to the next is achieved by pulling a trigger connected to the derailleur via cables.Depending on the type of bike you have your shifters can either be fashioned for flat bars or drop bars. With drop handlebars the shift levers are the same levers you use to apply your brakes, to shift gears you push the lever sideways until you hear a click. For mountain and hybrid style bikes with flat bars, you shift the gears via thumb triggers, completely separate from your braking system. Many kids bikes as well as comfort bicycles are fitted with grip shifters which allow the rider to turn a dial integrated into the handlebar grips to change gears, either forward or backwards.

 The cables that connect your shifters to the brakes are encased in protective housing. When you initiate a trigger pull on your shifter the cable either tightens or loosens, allowing the derailleur to move the chain either up and down on the chain rings or cassette.

Left Shifter

The left Shifter controls the front derailleur and swaps the chain between the front chain rings. This type of shifting is for big jumps in gearing for sudden changes in terrain and slope.

Right Shifter

The right shifter controls the rear derailleur and swaps the chain between the cogs on the rear cassette. This type of shifting is for small adjustments in gearing to use during slight changes in terrain and slope.

The larger of the two shifter levers will move the chain into the larger rings. Shifting into the larger rings with your right hand will make the pedaling easier, while shifting into the larger rings with your left hand will make it harder. Remember: BIG = BIG / RIGHT = EASIER / LEFT = HARDER

Small Lever

The smaller of the two shifter levers will move the chain into the smaller rings. Shifting into smaller rings with your right hand will make pedaling harder, while shifting into smaller rings with your left hand will make pedaling easier. Remember: SMALL=SMALL / RIGHT = HARDER / LEFT = EASIER

 Certain shifting systems have unique functionality including the SRAM "double tap" system, and older style grip shifter setups. See your specific manufacturer's instructions for the exact specifications on your drivetrain.

MOUNTAIN BIKER RIDING DOWNHILL ON TRAIL

Cross Chaining

Cross chaining is the term used to describe when your drivetrain is in one of the following undesirable, and inefficient positions.

The Largest cog in the cassette (easiest gear) and the largest chain ring (hardest gear).

SMALL/SMALL

The smallest cog in the cassette (hardest gear) and the smallest chain ring in the (easiest gear).

While in these positions the chain is stretched at an angle that causes damage to the drivetrain over time, as well as increases the chance of the chain slipping or rubbing the derailleurs.

Drivetrains with the "Trim Feature"

The trim feature is present on some road bikes and allows for micr-shifting of the derailleurs to eliminate cross chaining and improve gear efficiency. If in the largest chain ring and you are approaching the larger cogs on the cassette you can micro-shift the front derailleur to allow more space and eliminate rub while in the potential cross chaining zone.

ROAD BIKER CLIMBING OUT OF THE SADDLE

How do I Shift Efficiently?

All too often do we see cyclists putting max power into their pedals on a climb; or spinning out, legs flailing on a descent. The goal when cycling with gears is to keep a consistent cadence and maximize your power output. We do run out of energy, and by keeping a smooth cadence and shifting efficiently you will not only ride faster, but further!

Shifting often is a great way to stay active and efficient on the bicycle. Remember it takes time to develop a relationship with your bike's drivetrain, and start with the fundamentals. Thanks for reading our article on how to shift gears on your bike, we hope this arms you with the knowledge and confidence to chase that next KOM.

Check out our BLOG articles for great information and inside tips!

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How to Shift Your Gears

Learn how to use your full range of gears: applies to 21, 24, and 27 speed shift systems.

Video updates

  • 02:14 - Never use either the large/large or small/small gear combination!

Most bikes these days come with ’21 speeds’. However, this doesn’t mean you have 21 useable gears. Actually, on a 21 speed system it’s closer to 13. A lot of people get confused by all of the gear combinations available. I myself didn’t understand it when I first started using a multi-speed bike, so today we’ll learn how to use your gears most effectively.

It’s very important not to shift under pressure, as this will cause shift problems and damage your drivetrain. If you’re going uphill and you need a lower gear, keep pedaling, but ease off and pedal lightly while you shift.

Most systems have three gears on the front, which are controlled by your left shifter. The rear gear cluster usually has 7 gears, with some systems having 8 or 9. Not to worry, the concepts here are the same.

For most everday riding, you’ll want to keep your chain on the middle ring on the front, or number 2 on your left shifter. This allows you to use the full range of rear gears. Number 1 on your right shifter is the easiest gear for climbing hills, as it puts your chain on the largest rear sprocket. Number 7 on your right shifter is the hardest gear for going really fast, and it puts your chain on the smallest rear sprocket.

I find it helps to think of numbers 1 and 3 on your left shifter as options for extreme circumstances.

If you’re climbing a really tough hill and your left 2 and right 1 combination aren’t easy enough, you can shift your front derailleur to number 1 which drops the chain down to the smallest front chainring. While you’re in the smallest front gear you can shift the rear gears between 1 and 3 for a finer range adjustment, but you should always shift the front back to 2, or the middle chainring before using gears 4-7 on the rear.

If you’re going really fast and need a harder gear, and your left 2 and right 7 combination isn’t fast enough, you can shift your front derailleur to number 3 which pulls the chain up to the largest front chainring. While you’re in the largest front chainring you can shift the rear gears between 5 and 7 for a finer range adjustment, but always shift the front back to 2, or the middle chainring before using gears 1-4 on the rear.

Never use the full range of rear gears when you’re in either the small or large front sprockets (number 1 or 3 on the front shifter). This causes too great an angle in your chain line, which can cause noise and shifting problems.

Alex Ramon

A bicycle geek since early childhood, spent his twenties as a mechanic in bike shops. His passions include flatland BMX, unicycles, cycle touring, mountain biking and road riding.

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trek road bike shifting gears

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How to Shift Gears on a Bike: Gear Shifting Explained for Beginners

how to shift gears on a bicycle

Learning how to shift gears effectively will increase the enjoyment of your rides and help boost your endurance. 

Effective shifting allows you to maintain a steady pedaling rhythm , save energy, and become faster. In addition, you can avoid getting stuck in a high gear at a traffic light or at the beginning of a climb, for example.

Maintaining a consistent pedaling rhythm involves anticipating changes in the road or trail ahead, getting accustomed to your bicycle gear shifter and drivetrain, and lots of practice.

This guide will give you the information you need to begin shifting like a pro so that you can get the most out of your bike rides. 

Why Do Bikes Have Gears?

bicycle gears rear derailleur and cassette

Image source: Trekbikes.com

Bike gears are all about efficiency. A wide range of gears allows riders to pedal at a consistent cadence while riding on varied gradients, terrains, and in windy conditions.

With a range of gears to choose from, you can climb or descend steep gradients and ride with or against strong winds, which would be extremely difficult or impossible on a single-speed bike . Additionally, the steadier your cadence, the less energy you expend, allowing you to ride longer without tiring.  

Without gears, your cadence would drop significantly each time you began climbing a steep hill . In this situation, you could continue cycling seated or ride out of the saddle, both requiring vastly more energy per pedal stroke.

Conversely, to ride fast downhill or with a tailwind without gears would require an extremely high cadence, causing you to bounce on the saddle and possibly lose control. 

When Should You Shift Gears?

bicycle shifting gears uphill

It’s essential to change gears often to help save energy and increase endurance. By shifting at the correct time, you can maintain a smooth pedal stroke and consistent tempo, slowing the accumulation of fatigue.

Ideally, hold a cadence that works for you around 80-100rpm . But, of course, the exact tempo you prefer varies from person to person; some prefer higher, some lower. 

The best time to shift is just before any change to the road/trail ahead that will cause you to increase or reduce your speed. Specifically, avoiding sudden drops in cadence will help reduce fatigue. 

  • Changes in gradient – Use the left-hand shifter for big changes and the right-hand shifter for slight ones. Shift to a higher gear to go downhill and a lower gear to go uphill.
  • Sharp corners – If you must slow down considerably before cornering, shift to a lower gear so it is easier to accelerate again when you are clear.
  • Traffic stops – If you are approaching a stop sign, yield sign, or traffic light, shift to an easier gear so you can accelerate smoothly when necessary.
  • To ride out of the saddle – Shift up one or two gears higher to maintain a steady cadence when you want to ride standing up. 

How to Shift Gears on Different Types of Bikes

There are various groupsets , shifting systems and drivetrain setups, each with slight differences. This section will cover the most popular ones: road, twist, and trigger shifters. 

Before reading further, remember that the left hand shifters operate the front derailleur (chainrings) and the right hand shifters control the rear derailleur (cassette) .

However, electronic drivetrains, compared to mechanical ones, work slightly differently, requiring you to push the levers much less. 

Integrated Road-Style Shifters

Shimano ultegra road bike shifters

Shimano Ultegra STI road bike shift levers.

Bikes with drop handlebars, such as road bikes, gravel bikes, and cyclocross bikes typically use integrated brake and shift levers. The tops are used to rest your hands while riding, which is a comfortable position for long-distance riding.

The brake levers are pulled backward to engage the brakes but have a dual function. Besides braking, you can also push these levers inside to shift gears. This design allows for quick and easy gear changes without moving your hands from the braking position.

There’s also an additional pair of shifters behind the brake levers that you operate with your fingers while your hands are on the brake levers. The two pairs of shifters control front and rear derailleurs in each direction (shifting up and down).

Here’s a breakdown of how they work on each side:

Left side controls the front derailleur

  • Left big lever: push for a harder gear, to upshift the chain to the big ring
  • Left small lever: easier gear, moves the chain to the smaller chainring

Right side controls the rear derailleur

  • Right big lever: push the right big lever to move the chain to an easier gear/larger cog.
  • Right small lever: push in to shift to a harder gear/smaller cog. 

Twist Shifters 

shimano revoshift lever

Shimano Revoshift — the system most of us used to learn about bike gears.

This system is more intuitive than the road bike shifters described above and is used on many cheap off-road bikes and urban bikes. Popular twist-operated shifters include Shimano’s RevoShift and SRAM’s Grip Shifters.

Here’s a breakdown of how they work:

Left side controls the front gears

  • Twist forward = easier gear, small chainring
  • Twist back = harder gear, big chainring

Right side controls the rear gears

  • Twist forward = harder gear, smaller cog
  • Twist back = easier gear, bigger cog

Trigger Shifters

Shimano XTR trigger shifters

Shimano XTR Trigger Shifters used on most mountain bikes.

Trigger shifters such as Shimano RapidFire and SRAM Trigger Shifters operate similarly. For Shimano, each side has two triggers, one for the thumb and another for the index finger. SRAM has two thumb triggers on either side, a small lever in front of a larger one. This system is most popular on mountain bikes and hybrid bikes. 

Left shifter operates the front derailleur

  • Left index-finger trigger = easier gear, smaller chainring
  • Left thumb trigger = harder gear, bigger chainring

Right shifter operates the rear derailleur

  • Right index-finger trigger = harder gear, smaller cog
  • Right thumb trigger = harder gear, bigger cog

Bike Gear Shifting Basics

It’s helpful to understand some common terminology and how the components work to help get the most out of your gears. This section will touch on each of the relevant terms and parts for shifting. 

  • Higher or harder gear = the small cogs on the cassette and big chainring(s)
  • Lower or easier gear = the bigger cogs on the cassette, smaller chainring(s)

*Note: many cyclists refer to high gears as ‘big gears’ and low gears as ‘smaller gears.’

Bike Cassette

Bicycle cassette

The cassette is a series of cogs at the center of the rear wheel, descending outwards from big to small. The large cog on the cassette is the lowest/easiest to pedal; the smaller the cog, the higher the gear and the harder it is to pedal. 

Cassettes contain a series of cogs up to a max of 13, each with a specified number of teeth (represented using a lowercase t, 11-28t).

The relationship between cog and chainring teeth determines the gear ratios. The more rear gears there are, the smaller the jump between gear changes; smaller increments allow riders to maintain a smoother, more efficient pedal stroke. 

To achieve the hardest gear, move the chain to the smallest rear gear and the largest front sprocket, and vice versa for the easiest gear.

Bike Chainrings — 1x, 2x, 3x

bicycle chainrings

Chainrings (sprockets) are the larger plates at the front of the drivetrain attached to the cranks. The chainrings oppose the rear gears, meaning the bigger the chainring, the higher the gear and the more effort it takes to pedal. Conversely, the smaller chainring(s) is easier to pedal. 

Again, having more chainrings decreases the gap between each gear and provides a broader gear range, allowing riders to find the correct cadence when tackling very steep gradients. That said, most manufacturers try to minimize the number of chainrings to save weight and reduce drivetrain complexity for easier adjustments and repairs.  

Gear Ranges and Ratios

bicycle gear ratios

Gear ratios provided by a common 50/34t – 11-34t road bike drivetrain. | Image source: bikecalc.com screenshot

A gear range includes the number of gears and the distance between the highest and lowest. An extensive gear range is essential on climbing bikes or downhill bikes . For example, most mountain bikes have a wide gear range set lower to facilitate climbing, whereas performance road bikes have wide ranges with more high gears to facilitate high-speed riding. 

Gear ratio refers to the relationship between the number of teeth on the front chainring and the rear cog. You want small gear ratios for the easy gears and bigger ratios for harder ones.

For example, a 34t front chainring paired with a 32t rear cog is smaller (1.06:1) than a 34-28t (1.21:1) combination making it better for climbing. Conversely, a 50-10t pairing provides a larger gear ratio (5:1) than a 50-12t cog (4.16:1), making the 50-10t better for descending and riding at high speeds. 

Front Derailleur and Shifter

front bicycle derailleur

The left-hand shifter connects to the front derailleur with a cable (or wirelessly) allowing you to shift your chain between the chainrings at the front of the drivetrain. 

Switching between chainrings causes the most noticeable jump in gear and is typically done just before you lose or gain a lot of speed, for example, before reaching a steep gradient. So, shift to the big chainring when you’re about to descend and shift to the small chainring when you’re about to begin climbing. 

Rear Derailleur and Shifter

Shimano deore rear derailleur

The right-hand bike shifter operates the rear derailleur , moving the chain between cogs on the cassette. In addition, this derailleur tensions the chain when you switch between gears. Most gear changes are done using just the cassette cogs in response to slight fluctuations in gradient or conditions . 

Why Is Cross Chaining Bad?

cross-chaining

A crossed chain puts significant stress on the drivetrain, causing more rapid deterioration of the cogs, chain, and chainrings. In addition, this misalignment slightly reduces drivetrain efficiency, requiring you to work harder to achieve the same output. 

Cross-chaining happens when you use the gears at the far end of the gear range, causing the chain to run diagonally between the chainring and cog . This angle is most extreme when using the big chainring with the biggest cog or using the small chainring with the smallest cog. 

Cross-chaining will also cause more chain wear, requiring you to replace the chain more frequently.

Tips for Proper Shifting

bike shifting tips

You can implement a few shifting tips to improve your technique quickly. As mentioned before, smooth, anticipatory shifting helps you maintain a steady pedaling and save valuable energy. 

1. Use the Highest Cadence That Feels Comfortable

When riding seated, try to maintain the highest cadence you can without bobbing around on the seat. For some riders, this will be 80rpm; for others, it may be as high as 100rpm. Maintaining a high pedaling rpm ensures efficient energy use, boosting your overall endurance and cycling performance.  

2. Anticipate the Road/Trail Ahead

The most critical part of effective shifting is watching the road ahead for changes . As described in a previous section, shift before any change that will cause you to slow down or speed up, including corners, traffic stops, and gradient changes. Doing this allows you to maintain a consistent cadence and avoid wasting valuable energy. 

3. Shift Up or Down the Cassette Before Switching Chainrings

Moving up or down the cassette before shifting chainrings is a slightly more advanced technique that requires some practice to master. Doing so minimizes the effect of switching between chainrings. For example, quickly downshift two gears with one long press on the right shifter, then immediately move to the big chainring using the left shifters. 

4. Don’t Shift When You Put Down Pressure

Don’t shift when the drivetrain mechanism is under lots of tension; otherwise, the chain could skip or come off. Avoid this by pedaling lightly until the gear change is made by guiding the pedals around using the existing momentum without actually pushing. 

5. Do Regular Maintenance

It’s vital to keep your bike in good working order by periodically maintaining and cleaning the frame and components, especially the drivetrain. A system that isn’t lubed or is clogged with dirt and debris will not function correctly , causing loss of efficiency through poor shifting. 

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trek road bike shifting gears

Jordan Grimes

4 thoughts on “ how to shift gears on a bike: gear shifting explained for beginners ”.

this info was the best by far thank you

Glad you like it, Rhonda!

Thank you for the very valuable information. Bike Exchange

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trek road bike shifting gears

How to Shift Gears on a Road Bike

trek road bike shifting gears

Road bike gearing can be utterly overwhelming for beginner cyclists. There are gears and cables and shifters and clicking noises everywhere! But you don't need to be intimidated. Bicycle gearing is a lot simpler than it seems. This guide will teach you how to shift gears on a road bike. 

We'll also go through the basics of bicycle gearing and shifting. In this post, we'll define some terms you may have heard before, such as rear cassette or front derailleur. 

Most importantly, we have a step-by-step guide for shifting on a bike. Plus, we'll give you some beginner tips to avoid "cross chaining" and prevent you from dropping your chain. 

Road Bike Gearing Explained

Beginner's guide to road bikes gears.

Before we start explaining how to shift gears on a road bike, we must learn the terminology we'll be using. There are many moving parts on a bike, and the shifting system is only one small part. The shifting system is what allows you to change gears. 

In the second part of this post, we'll teach you how to shift gears safely and effectively. We'll point out some beginner mistakes and tell you how to avoid them. Here is everything that we're going to cover in the rest of this article: 

Everything You Need to Know About Gears on a Bike

Gearing Definitions to Know

Shift Lever

Left and right shifters, dropping your chain, front chainrings, rear chainrings, chainring teeth, small gear and big gear, moving the chain between gears, how to shift efficiently, beginner tips for gear shifting, what gear should you be in.

  • How to Avoid Cross Chaining
  • Why Cross Chaining is Bad For Your Bike

‍ Bike Gears

Bike gears typically refer to the combination of cogs and chainrings on a road bike. If you don't know what we're talking about, don't worry; we'll explain everything in a minute. 

As we go through each term, think about your road bike if you have one. Imagine what each part looks like and if you've ever looked closely at it. You don't need to be an expert on each term, and no, there's not going to be a pop quiz at the end of this article. 

This guide is meant to teach you about the critical components of bike gearing. That way, if something goes wrong, it will be easier for you to find the source of the problem. Let's jump into it. 

Shift levers are the components that are squeezed, moved, twisted, or tapped to change gears on your bike. Most road bike shift levers are curved pieces of carbon, plastic, or aluminum that fit in the palm of your hand. You will typically squeeze the shift lever (closing it towards the bars) to apply the brakes and push the lever in (towards the midline of the bike) to shift gears. 

In case you missed it, shift levers and brake levers are typically the same on road bikes. Both are located on the front and top of the handlebars, creating the hand position known as "riding on the hoods." 

Other styles of bikes such as hybrids or cruisers may have a separate shift lever or shifter controls, and a separate brake lever. In this case, the brake lever is probably your typical squeeze lever, while the shifter controls are either twist shifters or thumb shifters.

gray and black road bike

On most road bikes, the left lever controls the front derailleur and brake, while the right shift lever controls the rear derailleur and brake. This is the most common lever set-up, but it is common for European riders to use the opposite set-up (e.g., left for rear and right for front). 

Shift levers typically have cables that run from the lever to the shifter. Internal cable routing means the cable goes through the bike's frame to the shifter. In contrast, external cable routing means the cable runs alongside the outside of the frame to get to the shift lever. 

Top-end shifting systems are electronic, meaning no cables connecting the lever to the shifter. Instead, the system is connected wirelessly. 

Chains are the final piece of the drivetrain that connects everything, transferring power from the pedals and through the chain to the rest of the system. The chain is a roller chain that goes around each chain ring and through the derailleur systems. Without a chain, you wouldn't be able to push power into the rear wheel and move your bike forward. 

One of the most common cycling terms is "dropping your chain." This refers to your chain falling off the front or rear chain ring. At best, the chain will be caught by the derailleur (you see where the name comes from?) and be remounted to the chain ring in no time. 

In the picture below

Dropped chain road bike

At worst, a dropped chain will get wrapped around the pedal, chain ring, or derailleur, and it could even be twisted or broken. One of the most frustrating mechanical catastrophes in cycling is when your chain gets dropped off the inside of your front chain ring and ends up wedged between your bike's chain ring and frame. 

If you have a carbon bike, do NOT try to yank the chain back out from between the frame and the front chain ring. This could damage or crack your frame, ruining the entire bike in a split second. 

Instead, leave the chain where it is and get a ride home. If you're an experienced mechanic, you can try removing some parts (such as the front derailleur or chainrings) in order to remove the chain. Or you can break the chain to fish it out. But if you're not an experienced bike mechanic, we recommend taking your bike to a local shop where a professional mechanic can help get your chain out.

Beginners needn't worry too much. You should never drop your chain if your bike is set up properly with the correct gearing and derailleur system. 

The chain rings refer to the spiked circles connected by your chain. Your front chainring (the spelling of chainring can also be chain ring) is the larger chain ring that is centered around your crankset and bottom bracket. Your pedals attach around the front chain ring. 

black Stronglite bicycle sprocket

Road bikes typically have two front chain rings, the "big ring" and the "small ring." The big ring is used on flat roads and for racing and time trials, while the small ring is used for low-speed rides and climbing. A typical road bike will have a 53/39T, which means that it has a 2x (two chain ring) setup with a 53-tooth chain ring and a 39-tooth chain ring. Skip to the next sub-heading to learn about chainring teeth. 

Rear chain rings are most often referred to as the  rear cassette . Rear cassettes are typically 10-speed or 11-speed on most road bikes, which means they have 10 or 11 different gears. This is why bikes are some times called an "11-speed bike." The cassette relates to the grouping of gears rather than a single gear known as a cog. 

The most common rear cassette is an 11x28 with 11 different gears, with the 11-tooth cog being the "smallest" gear and the 28-tooth cog being the "biggest gear." 

While it is technically correct to refer to the rear gears as the "rear chain rings," no one ever uses that term. Instead, cyclists usually say things like "rear cog" or "I was stuck in my 11."

Every chain ring has a certain number of teeth, which refer to the points that stick out around the edge of the chain ring. You can't miss 'em. 

The bigger a chain ring, the more teeth that chain ring has. For example, the biggest chain ring on a typical road bike has 53 teeth, which is the big front chain ring. 

However, it is crucial to remember that a lot of bike gearing and shifting is the opposite of the front and rear gears. We'll cover this topic in depth below in How to Shift Gears on a Road Bike. But for now, you need to know that bigger front chain rings have more teeth, and small chain rings have fewer teeth. 

In summary, cyclists always describe gearing based on the number of teeth that chain ring or cog has. For example, a cyclist might say, "I was using the 28 for that climb because it was so steep," referring to the rear cog with 28 teeth. 

yellow bicycle with grey pedal sprocket

Bicycle gear ratio refers to the combination of front and rear gear at any moment. Gear ratio is expressed as the  front chain ring x rear cog , such as "53x11." 

When cyclists talk about what gear they are using, they may respond with their gear ratio (e.g., 53x11) instead of just one gear (e.g., "I was in my 28.”) 

Along the same lines, when a cyclist says they shifted into a harder gear, they are referring to moving up the big chain ring or moving the rear cog to an easier low gear.

Cyclists typically refer to their "biggest gear" as the hardest gear and their "smallest gear" as their easiest gear. Confusingly, the words big and small don't align with the cogs' physical sizes. Don't overthink it. 

To "wind up your big gear" means that you are getting ready to sprint in the 53x11, for example. If a cyclist says they had to use their smallest gear on a climb, they are talking about using their 39x28 to get up that hill. 

In most cases, "small gear" means riding easy, while "big gear" refers to riding hard and fast. 

Derailleurs are components of the gearing system that move the chain from one gear to another. They also help hold the chain in place and prevent it from falling off the chain rings during gear shifts. 

Most road bikes have two derailleurs: front derailleur and rear derailleur. The front derailleur is located directly above the front chain rings. In contrast, the rear derailleur is located under the rear cassette. 

gray stainless steel and black bike wheel

The drivetrain refers to all the moving parts that make up the gearing system and transfer power from the pedals to the rear wheel. Bicycle drivetrains include the chain, chainrings, and cassette.

When you shift gears on a road bike, you are physically moving the chain from one chain ring or cog to another. Well, you're not grabbing the chain with your hand. Still, you're operating the lever that then uses the derailleur to move the chain physically. 

In other words, you control the shift levers, the shift levers control the derailleurs, and the derailleurs maintain the position of the chain. 

Shift levers come in all different shapes and sizes, including trigger shifters, twist shifters, and button shifters. Most road bikes use simple levers for their shifters, of which there are two on each side of your handlebars: one shift lever moves the chain to the left while the other shift lever moves the chain to the right. 

Moving the front chain ring to the left means shifting into an easier or smaller gear. This shifts your chain from the big ring to the small ring, which is what you would do before the start of a steep climb. Moving your front chain ring to the right means shifting from the small ring to the big ring. This is precisely what you would do as you crest the climb and start down the descent. 

As for your rear gears, moving the chain to the right means shifting to a harder cog. You would shift your rear gears to the harder cog as you accelerate or prepare for a sprint. 

If you move the chain to the right on the rear cassette, you are making a shift into easier gears. This is the shift that you would make if you are decelerating as you start climbing up a steep hill. 

Those are the basics of shifting gears, but now we're going to tell you how to shift gears safely and efficiently. 

In the split second that you are shifting gears, your chain will be detached from your chain ring. Remember that you are physically moving your chain from one gear to another when you shift. It only takes a fraction of a second, but this can be important. 

Avoid pressing hard on the pedals at the precise moment that you shift. This might take some practice, but over time, you will develop an instinct to relax on the one pedal stroke that you are shifting gears. 

Most importantly, avoid shifting gears during an all-out sprint. This can cause your gears to slip (i.e. your chain slips over a few teeth before engaging) or your chain to drop. When you're sprinting, you're putting a lot of pressure on the chain and you're probably throwing your bike around. Efficient shifting is done best when your bike is stable and you have a light but consistent pressure on the pedals. 

man in black jacket riding red bicycle

As frustrating as this may sound, smooth and efficient shifting comes with lots of practice. Professional cyclists shift intuitively, they don't even think about it. Whereas beginner cyclists might be overthinking every single shift. 

When you're first learning how to shift, remember to be smooth on the pedals and avoid shifting when you are pushing hard in your pedal stroke. There is no benefit to shifting gears quickly. It's always better to shift gears smoothly. 

As you get more comfortable with gear shifting, practice shifting into corners and before and after hills. When you decelerate for a corner, try shifting into an easier gear so that your cadence stays the same as you exit the corner at a lower speed. 

The same goes for climbing. Practice shifting gears just  before  you are on the climb rather than when you have already started it. This allows you to find a comfortable cadence before the road gets steep, and you won't get stuck trying to shift gears while also putting pressure on the pedals. 

Picking the perfect gear is a lot like choosing the perfect pair of shoes. We have some recommendations and guidelines for you to follow but at the end of the day, you have to find the gear that is best for you.

If you have a cadence sensor or a power meter, then you can use your cadence data to find your perfect gear. Your cadence is how fast you are pedaling, and it is measured in revolutions per minute (rpm). When you shift into an easier gear, your cadence will increase at the same effort level. And when you shift into a harder gear, your cadence will decrease.

A cadence of 80-90rpm is recommended for most cyclists, but this can change based on the terrain. For example, you might be pedaling at a lower cadence of 70rpm on a steep hill, or sprinting in your fastest gear at 105rpm.

A good rule of thumb is to get into the gear where you are pedaling almost as fast as you can without your bottom bouncing up and down on the saddle. Your cadence should feel quick but smooth. And for most cyclists, this ideal cadence is around 80-90rpm.

woman riding road bike

Avoid Cross Chaining

Cross-chaining occurs when your chain is stretching diagonally across your front and rear gears. Imagine looking at your chain from above, and you can see if it is tracking in a straight line. 

trek road bike shifting gears

If you are cross-chaining, your chain will not look straight. Instead, it will be reaching from the right side of the front chain rings to the left side of the rear cassette (as you can see in the picture above) or vice versa. An example of cross-chaining is riding in your 53x28 (above), which means that your chain is stretching diagonally from your big chain ring to your easiest rear cog. 

Why Cross Chaining is Bad for Your Bike

Cross-chaining is loud, inefficient, and dangerous. First, it is loud because your chain will be rubbing up against the front derailleur. Metal rubbing on metal usually makes a lot of noise. 

This rubbing wastes energy, which means that anytime you are cross-chaining, you are losing watts. 

Lastly, cross-chaining is dangerous because it puts extra pressure on your rear derailleur and especially your rear derailleur hangar which is the small piece that connects your rear derailleur to your bike's frame. The diagonal pressure from cross chaining is much more likely to bend or break your rear derailleur, which is not a cheap and easy fix. 

To avoid cross-chaining, try to use the bottom two-thirds (e.g. 23-11) of your rear cassette with your front chain ring only. If you need an easier gear in the top third of your cassette (e.g. 28-23), you should shift to your small ring. 

In other words, don't use your easiest rear cogs with your big front chain ring. And if you're not sure if you're cross chaining, just look down at your chain and listen for rubbing on your front derailleur. 

Sources/Links

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Table of contents

Beginner’s Guide to Road Bikes Gears

trek road bike shifting gears

Zach has a degree in Exercise Science and Psychology. He is a certified coach, Cat 1 cyclist, and is a freelance writer having been published in many of the worlds largest endurance sports publications.

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How To Change Gears On A Trek Road Bike

Road bikes are designed to be ridden on pavement, but they can also be ridden on trails. Their tires are thinner and they have fewer gears than mountain bikes. To change gears on a road bike, you need to use your shifters. The shifters are located on the handlebars. There are two shifters, one for the front gears and one for the rear gears. To change gears, you need to push on the shifter with your thumb. The number on the shifter corresponds to the gear you are in. For example, if the shifter is in the 2 position, you are in the second gear.

  • Locate the shifters on your handlebars
  • On most trek road bikes, the shifters will be located on the down tube of the frame
  • Place your hand on the shifter and depress the lever
  • While depressing the lever, use your other hand to push the bike pedal forward
  • As you push the pedal forward, the bike chain will move to a higher gear
  • Release the lever when the desired gear is reached

How to shift gears on trek domane

If you’re like most people, you probably don’t think much about how to shift gears on your bike. After all, it’s not something you have to do very often. But if you’re planning on doing any serious biking, whether it’s on the road or off, you’ll need to know how to shift gears properly. Here’s a quick guide to help you get started. There are two main types of bike shifting systems: derailleur and hub. Derailleur systems are the most common, and they’re what you’ll find on most road and mountain bikes. They’re also the most complex, so we’ll start there. The first thing you need to know about derailleur systems is that they have two main parts: the shifters and the derailleurs. The shifters are the parts you actually use to shift gears. They’re usually located on the handlebars, and you operate them with your hands. The derailleurs are the parts that move the chain from one gear to another. They’re located near the wheels, and they’re operated by the shifters. To shift gears, you’ll use the shifters to move the chain from one cog to another. On most bikes, you’ll find that the left shifter controls the front derailleur and the right shifter controls the rear derailleur.

How do you shift gears on a trek?

Assuming you are talking about shifting gears on a bicycle, the process is actually quite simple. Most bicycles will have either 21, 24, or 27 gears. To shift gears, you simply use your left hand to click the appropriate lever up or down. For example, if you click the lever down, you will be shifting to a lower gear. There are a few things to keep in mind when shifting gears, however. First, you always want to be pedaling when you shift gears. This helps the chain move to the new gear smoothly. Second, you want to make sure you click the lever all the way. Otherwise, you may find yourself stuck in between gears, which can be frustrating. Finally, it’s important to remember that you don’t always need to shift gears. If you’re pedaling along and find that you’re going too slow, you can shift to a lower gear. However, if you’re pedaling too fast, it’s better to just slow down a bit rather than shifting to a higher gear. Shifting to a higher gear when you’re already going fast can actually make pedaling harder. So, to sum up, shifting gears on a bicycle is simple. Just use your left hand to click the appropriate lever up or down. Remember to pedal when you shift, click the lever all the way, and don’t shift to a higher gear when you’re already going fast.

How do you adjust gears on a Trek road bike?

If you’re new to road biking, adjusting your gears may seem daunting. But don’t worry – it’s actually quite simple! Here’s a quick guide on how to adjust gears on your Trek road bike. First, you’ll need to identify which gear you’re in. Your bike will have a number of cogs (gears) on the rear wheel, and a number of sprockets (teeth) on the front. The number of teeth on the sprockets will determine the gear you’re in. To adjust your gears, you’ll use the shifters on the handlebars. On most Trek road bikes, there will be two shifters – one for the front gears, and one for the rear. To shift up a gear, you’ll want to push the appropriate shifter away from you. For example, if you’re in the second-lowest gear on the rear (which would be indicated by the number two on the shifter), you’ll want to push the shifter away from you to move up to the third gear. To shift down a gear, you’ll do the opposite – you’ll pull the shifter towards you. So, if you’re in the third gear on the rear, you’ll want to pull the shifter towards you to move down to the second gear.

How do you shift gears on a road bike smoothly?

When you’re shifting gears on a road bike, you want to do it smoothly so you don’t lose your balance or disrupt your pedaling rhythm. Here’s how to do it: 1. Start by pedaling at a steady pace in a lower gear. 2. When you’re ready to shift, ease off the pedals briefly. 3. While you’re coasting, use your left hand to move the shifter on the handlebar until you’re in the higher gear. 4. Start pedaling again and you’re in the higher gear!

How do you use gears on a road bike?

Gearing on a road bike is all about finding the right balance between pedaling cadence and bike speed. While there are many different ways to set up the gears on a road bike, most riders will find that a standard setup with two chainrings in the front and nine cogs in the rear works best. This gives you a wide range of gears to work with, so you can find the perfect balance for any situation. To use the gears on a road bike, you’ll need to shift the chain between the different chainrings and cogs. The front derailleur moves the chain between the two chainrings, while the rear derailleur moves it between the cogs. Shifting is done by moving the shifters on the handlebars; one shifter controls the front derailleur and the other controls the rear. When shifting, it’s important to pedaling gently and not put too much pressure on the chain. This can cause the chain to come off the chainrings or cogs, and can also damage the drivetrain. Always pedaling smoothly and shifting gently will help prolong the life of your bike’s gears. Road bikes typically have a wide range of gears, which is ideal for riding on varied terrain. The low gears make it easier to pedal up hills, while the higher gears let you zip down them.

How To: Shift a Road Bike

If you’re new to road biking, you might be wondering how to change gears on your bike. Trek road bikes have a shifting system that’s easy to use, even if you’re new to cycling. Here’s a quick guide on how to change gears on a Trek road bike. To shift gears on a Trek road bike, you’ll use the shifters on the handlebars. The left shifter controls the front derailleur, and the right shifter controls the rear derailleur. To shift up to a higher gear, you’ll push the shifter lever away from the handlebar. To shift down to a lower gear, you’ll pull the shifter lever toward the handlebar. It’s important to shift gears gradually, especially when you’re riding up hills. If you shift too quickly, you could damage your bike’s drivetrain. When you’re ready to shift, pedaling at a steady pace, gently push or pull the shifter lever until you hear the chain click into place. Then, continue pedaling and enjoy the ride.

The Cycling Point

Learn To Change Gears On A Road Bike Like A Pro

Learn how to effortlessly change gears on a road bike! Our expert guide promises smoother rides and optimal speed control.

Last updated: September 13, 2023

Man changing gears on a road bike

Are you ready to take your road biking experience to the next level? Take your bike riding up a notch by learning how to change gears smoothly. Mastering this skill not only improves your overall cycling performance but also keeps you safe and comfortable during your ride.

In this article, we will guide you through the essential aspects of how to change gears on a road bike. We’ll familiarize you with the various components involved in the process. We’ll also explain how to select the right gear for different situations.

With these tips in hand, you’ll be well on your way to a more efficient and enjoyable cycling experience.

Table of Contents

In A Rush? TLDR Version

To change gears on a road bike, use the left shifter to adjust the front chainring and the right shifter to adjust the rear cassette. Shift to lower gears for uphill rides and higher gears for flat or descending terrains. Pedal lightly while shifting and avoid backpedaling.

Avoid cross-chaining, skipping gears, and incomplete shifts. Practice shifting smoothly and avoid forcing the levers.

learning how to change gears on a road bike

Understanding Gear Systems On A Road Bike

In simple terms, a road bike groupset is a collection of components that allows you to move and stop a bike . The following components form a part of the groupset, i.e. the gearing system of a bike.

Derailleurs

Derailleurs are crucial in your bike’s gear system. They shift the chain between different cogs and chainrings. This allows you to change gears as needed during your ride.

A cassette is a set of sprockets located on the rear wheel. As you change gears, the rear derailleur moves the chain up or down the cassette.

Chainrings are attached to your bike’s crankset. The left-hand lever moves the chain between chainrings. This influences the gear ratio and pedal resistance.

It’s a good idea to keep these bike components well-maintained .

Close up of road bike gear change

The Concept Of High And Low Gears

So what does that all mean in terms of riding?

In high gear, you find it harder to pedal . This is ideal when descending or riding at high speed on flat terrains.

Low gear makes it easier to pedal . Perfect for climbing or maintaining a low speed on uphill terrains.

How To Shift Gears On Your Road Bike

Shifting the front gear.

The left shifter controls the front gears (or chainring). Shifting into a larger chainring will make pedaling harder but faster – ideal for downhill or flat terrains.

Shifting the Rear Gear

The right shifter controls the rear gears (or cassette). Shifting into a larger cog will make pedaling easier but slower – perfect for uphill rides.

Tips for Smooth Gear Shifting

Two key things you need to remember about shifting gears.

Firstly, remember to pedal lightly while shifting gears . This ensures smooth gear changes and avoids damaging your bike. Secondly, avoid backpedaling during the gear-changing process.

When Should You Change Gears On A Road Bike

The ideal cadence for efficient cycling helps you move faster with less energy. Gears play a big role in maintaining this cadence.

Factors that influence gear changing include road gradient, wind, rider fatigue, and traffic situation.

Shifting Gears Based On Riding Conditions

  • Shifting gears when climbing : Shift to lower gear for uphill rides. It allows you to maintain a smooth cadence without overexerting yourself.
  • Shifting gears on flat terrains : Shift to higher gears for flat or descending terrains. This provides more speed with less pedal effort.
  • Anticipating gear shifts based on the road or trail ahead : Keep an eye on what’s coming up! Make gear changes in advance to maintain your optimal cadence and conserve energy.

Check out this video from Trek for a visual explanation:

Common Gear-Changing Mistakes To Avoid

Cross-chaining.

Cross-chaining occurs when you’re in the biggest chainring and biggest sprocket or smallest chainring and smallest sprocket. This strains the chain and derailleurs.

Make sure you keep your chain aligned. Shift to a smaller chainring and larger sprocket or vice versa.

Skipping Gears

Skipping gears can lead to an uncomfortable ride. You might shift too many gears at once.

Practice shifting smoothly. Shift one gear at a time for optimal cadence and control.

Incomplete Shifts

Incomplete shifts occur when the derailleur doesn’t fully engage a new gear. It leads to chain noises and less efficient pedaling. 

To avoid this issue, apply slight pressure to the shifter and listen for the gears to engage fully.

These issues can also start to wear down your gearing components and lead to your bike chain slipping as well.

Cyclist facing steep uphill climb on road bike

Frequently Asked Questions

I’m a beginner, how can i practice shifting gears.

Practicing gear shifts can be done with someone else pedaling the bike on a portable bike trainer while you maneuver the levers.

Also, shifting while pedaling helps you to feel how the pedal effort changes. You can hold the rear brake while shifting to practice this technique.

How Can I Know What Gear I Am In While Riding?

Depending on the budget of your road bike , it most likely won’t have a built-in gear indicator. Experienced riders typically determine their gear based on the feel of their pedaling effort and the position of the chain on the front and rear cogs.

With experience, you will learn to sense which gear is most appropriate for different riding conditions.

Do You Stop Pedalling When Changing Gears?

No, you should not stop pedaling when changing gears.

On the contrary, you need to pedal when changing gears on a road bike. The chain needs to be in motion for the derailleur to shift from one gear to another. If you try to shift while coasting, you may damage your bike.

However, you should take it easy on the pedaling pressure when you shift to allow the chain to smoothly transition to the next gear.

Lastly, always be gentle with the shifters. Too much force can cause them to break.

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How To Adjust Bike Shifting

trek road bike shifting gears

If you’ve been on the bike a lot since your spring tune-up, it’s probably time to readjust your shifting . For go-getters who want to tackle this project themselves, here are a few pointers:

For every click of your rear derailleur shifter, the derailleur should move the chain one complete gear change. Start with the chain in the smallest cog. If you click your shifter to move the chain up to the next largest cog on the rear and it does not go up or hesitates before moving, you need to tighten your cable tension. You can do this with the barrel adjuster that is built into either your shifter or derailleur. As you turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise, it screws the adjuster out taking up slack in the cable tension. This results in moving the derailleur a little further.

Pro Tip: A little bit can go a long way! Start with ¼ turns only and try the shifting again. Keep trying ¼ turns until you have it just right.

There are a few screws on the derailleur that will be tempting to adjust. Don’t! These are already adjusted to their positions to stop the derailleur from shifting the chain into the spokes and into the frame on the two most extreme gears. They only provide stopping points for the derailleur, they do not adjust the derailleur.

Learn how to adjust your bike shifting with Trek Travel

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Easy E-biking

How to Use Gears on E-bike? Mechanic and Electric.

Last Updated on January 9, 2023 by Igor Karni

Easy E-Biking - mountain e-bike, controls Bosch, helping to make electric biking practical and fun

It is not a secret that most electric-assisted bicycles, similar to conventional ones, have multiple gears that allow adjusting pedaling effort passed to the wheels. While principles of using gears are similar, both for conventional bikes and for electric ones, there are a few details that are not exactly the same.

How to use gears on an electric bike? Use the left gear shifter to change electric assist levels. Use the right gear shifter to change mechanical gears. Lead with changing electric assist levels. Then follow with changing mechanical gears to obtain your optimal level of pedaling effort. 

Further questions arise. What are the electric assistance gears? What are the mechanical gears? How many gears are there? Is there the best gear shifting technique for electric bikes? Let’s spend a few minutes understanding the electric bike gearing system  and how to use gears.

What are the e-bike gears?

Gears are the same as speeds – a bike with 24 gears is a 24-speed bike. Electric bikes generally have 1, 3, 18, 21, 24, 27, 32, or even 40 speeds. Lower numbers are the low gears, and higher numbers are the high gears. The first gear is low gear. Twenty-fourth gear is high gear. Pretty easy so far.

Shifting gears is going from one gear to another. You shift gears by sliding or clicking the shifter on the handlebars. This shifts the chain onto a different-sized ring (or increases/decreases electric power output). Downshifting means going to a lower gear, and upshifting means going to a higher gear. You can also say shift down and shift up.

On an e-bike, the  left shifter is responsible for shifting electric assistance levels and the right shifter takes care of shifting mechanical gears .

For mechanical gears, the right shifter is connected to a cable, which is hidden in protective housing. As you click through (or turn) the gears, this cable is tightening and loosening, applying more or less force to the mechanism that moves your e-bike’s chain up and down on the cassette or chainrings.

What are the electric assistance gears?

The level of electric assistance is controlled via a control block, mounted on the handlebar. Usually, on the left side. This control block typically has a combination of Up (Plus) and Down (Minus) buttons.

There is still no single standard.  Different electric assistance systems have a bit of different terminology. In a nutshell, there are always low, medium , and high levels of assistance with Up (or Plus) giving more electric assistance, and Down (or Minus) offering less .

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For example, Bosch electric assistance system has levels of: OFF > ECO > TOUR > SPORT > TURBO, while Shimano uses OFF > ECO > NORMAL > HIGH.

Each electric assistance system (Bosch, Yamaha, Shimano or other) complements with giving you more electric power, depending on how hard you are pushing on the pedals and depending on the assistance level selected.

Bosch, for example, gives you:

How to understand gear numbers?

One of the most difficult things about learning how to shift gears is the terminology. The rest is just about practice. Let’s get the terminology easy and straight from the start.

Low gear is easy, which is good for climbing . Low gear uses the most electric assistance power and the largest cog on your rear wheel cassette (rear or mechanical gears). In this position, the pedaling will be the easiest and you’ll be able to pedal uphill with the smallest amount of resistance. To get into this position, you downshift.

Read also: Can e-bikes help climb steep hills ? And, How safe are electric bikes ?

High gear is hard, which is good for descending. What is confusing, is that the highest electric assistance gear on your bike is when there is no electric assistance at all. When electric assistance is switched off. This is counterintuitive.

The highest mechanical gear uses the smallest cog on your rear wheel cassette (rear or mechanical gears). In this position, pedaling will take the most effort and you will be able to accelerate downhill. To get into this position, you upshift.

Referencing rear gears applies to electric bikes with mid-drive and front-drive motors, which represent a good majority of e-bikes, manufactured today.

Shifting gears on an electric bike

For each electric assistance level, most e-bike models have multiple corresponding mechanical gears. As an example, my wife’s e-bike has eight mechanical speeds for each electric assistance mode. Four electric assistance modes and eight mechanical speeds give 32 different speed combinations. Not a small number!

For example, even on the first electric assistance level (ECO mode), when minimal electric assistance is provided, one can use eight different speeds, which will suit a variety of terrains and training levels of a cyclist.

As you start off cycling with electric assistance, the motor will very quickly start assisting you at the selected preset level.

Read also: Front, mid-drive, or rear e-bike motor . Which one to choose? And, What is the difference between e-bike motors ?

Once your pedaling speed (it is also called, cadence) increases above a comfortable level, shift your mechanical gears (right shifter) to the next hardest setting while continuing to pedal. Remember to keep pedaling when changing gears .

You will hear the motor temporarily reduce power while the shifting is performed. The motor will then restart. This temporary power reduction protects the motor. It will then quickly resume its assistance.

Continue to pedal and again, when your pedaling speed has increased enough, shift gears again. Repeat this process until you reach a speed you are comfortable with.

Easy E-Biking - mountain e-bike speed controls, helping to make electric biking practical and fun

Right or left shifter to use?

As you pedal along, which shifter to use when? When to use the left one and when the right one?

An easy rule is, if you need a big change , use your left shifter (electric), meaning change electric assistance level. If you need a small change (mechanic), use the right shifter , meaning change mechanical gears.

As you practice more and become more comfortable with your e-bike, you will get a better feeling for whether you need a big change or a small change.

Tackling hills on an e-bike

Naturally, you will find that you will need to increase the electric assistance level when you come to a hill. If you are in a lower assistance setting, your speed is likely to begin to decrease as you start climbing the hill.

To overcome this slowdown, keep pedaling and change into a lower mechanical gear first (one that is easier to pedal). Then increase the level of electric assistance (for example, from ECO to TOUR).

As you start going downhill, decrease the electric assistance level first (for example, back from TOUR to ECO) and then upshift mechanical gears (right control on the handlebar). This will allow you to pedal slower, but with more force.

Stopping on an electric bike

As you are riding along, changing gears, and adjusting assistance levels, how do you stop?

To prepare to stop, remember to start shifting into easier mechanical gears while pedaling as you slow down. It is a good practice to remain in the correct gear prior to stopping. Adjust the electric assistance level as well before you stop. Although, this can also be done while already stationary.

And, not least, do not forget to apply the brakes!

Read also: What are the differences between e-bike batteries ? And, How to properly store an electric bike ?

Dos and don’ts when switching gears

Change to an easy mechanical gear before you stop.

If your e-bike has a rear gearbox, you need to change into an easier gear before you come to a complete stop. When shifting down you need to keep rotating the pedals to make sure the gears are fully engaged. This can also be done while rolling or coasting to a stop, as long as the pedals are being turned.

Do not change mechanical gears while stationary

If you forget or do not have enough time to change to a lower gear before stopping, you will have to start off in a higher gear. This is not a big trouble. Once you start rolling, you can then reduce your pedaling effort and shift down to an easier gear.

Yes, you can shift electric assistance modes when stopped

Contrary to mechanical gears, it is no problem to change the level of electric assistance while you are stopped. For example, if you are stopped at a road light while traveling on SPORT mode, you can downshift to ECO and start off at a more comfortable speed.

Or, you can keep the electric assistance level to TURBO, if you want to accelerate as quickly as possible when the light goes green.

Is there the best gear shifting technique?

Easy Tip: I found that keeping a steady pedaling effort and switching often could well be the best e-bike gear shifting technique out there.

Some cyclists decide to put too much power onto their pedals as they climb up a steep hill. Or use a gear that is too easy for the descent they are riding. For easy riding, your goal should be to keep your pedaling speed (cadence) as consistent as possible.

This requires balancing electric power and your own pedaling force in a smooth combination . This, in turn, suggests not using one electric assistance level and one mechanical speed but shifting often for increased efficiency while riding.

Begin to shift into easier mechanical gears with your right hand early in the process. This will help you keep a steady pedaling rhythm. Remember, your right hand is for small changes.

Read also: How to select the best e-bike for your needs ? Making your educated e-bike selection choice – and also in this article . And, How much does a good e-bike cost ? Comprehensive e-bike pricing guide (with 46 examples).

If you find that your pedaling pace is slowing significantly, you will likely need to increase the electric assistance level to tackle the big climb ahead.

When shifting mechanical gears, put a little more power into your pedal stroke right before you shift gears. Then, reduce pedaling effort as you shift. This will help your bike’s gear shifting mechanism with less pressure on your chain during the shift.

Hope this helps a bit. Happy shifting and learning to use the full potential of both electric modes and mechanical gears!

Igor Karni

Igor is a sustainable mobility and green energy advocate. His mission for Easy E-biking is to help make electric cycling simple, practical, and fun. Follow him on Facebook and LinkedIn .

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About igor karni.

trek road bike shifting gears

Hey there! My name is Igor Karni. I created this site to help you find answers to your questions about e-bikes. I hope that this blog will give you enough knowledge to rent or buy an e-bike you will love and the one that best suits your personal needs. It will make me happy if my articles help make your decisions a bit easier. And you have fun following the process!

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trek road bike shifting gears

– Confused by the pros and cons of derailleurs, hub gears and continuously variable transmission? We demystify all of this down below. –

A lot of e-bike publicity focuses on the performance capabilities of the motor or the size of the battery. One often-overlooked area is gearing.

Surely you just get the same choice as on a regular bike? Only to a point; the e-bike revolution has meant many things for e-bike design, one of which is an expansion of the gearing options available.

With extra motor power available bigger and better-performing gears can be used, gears which would be too heavy or difficult to pedal for most riders of non-electric bikes. These are covered in the Advanced Systems section dow below.

But for now, let’s stick with gearing systems 101: derailleurs and hub gears

The Basics: Derailleur and Hub Gears

The majority of e-bikes are equipped with derailleur gears, with hub gears being the major alternative choice. Both options go back many, many decades so the technology on both is well advanced and should work well for its intended purposes. But what are they and what are the pros and cons of each system?

Derailleur Gears: Overview

trek road bike shifting gears

Derailleur gear set ups are so named as they always consist of a derailleur (or rear mech) in black here and a rear cassette (or rear cogs) which is the array of silver coloured sprockets. Some bikes use a front derailleur too (see infographic below) but front derailleurs are very rare on e-bikes.

Derailleur gears are external, with a rear derailleur usually connected to a cable. Tensioning the cable via a shifter on the handlebars means the derailleur guides the chain up over the sprockets onto the larger, easier to pedal ones (lower gears) ideal for hillclimbing. Letting the tension off in the cable means the spring in the derailleur pulls the chain downwards and outwards onto the smaller, harder to pedal gear sprockets (higher gears) for traveling at speed.

trek road bike shifting gears

Terminology of the parts commonly found on derailleur systems

Common derailleur gear makes found on e-bikes are Shimano and SRAM.

Pros of Derailleur Gears:

  • They are lightweight systems, and at the budget end of the market they are cheap to replace if damaged.
  • Said to be more efficient than internal hub gears.
  • Derailleurs give a wide range of gearing options (ie very low gears for easy hill climbing and high gears for speed on the flat and downhill).

To add a little more color to that last point: recent decades have seen the development of a relatively simple form of wide range gearing using only a single chainwheel at the front of the chain and a very wide range of gears on the rear cassette.

trek road bike shifting gears

A 1 x 12, wide-range derailleur gear set up from Shimano – in this instance on a high performance, sporty Cube eMTB

The number of teeth are often given in derailleur gearing specs. For example, on a high-quality mountain bike setup you might see something like ‘Front Chainring 36T Rear Cassette 11-50T’ – T here indicating the number of teeth.

This kind of setup means ‘low gearing’ – ie easy to pedal on off-road surfaces where there is more resistance and where you will want to tackle really steep terrain.

Note the lower the number of teeth on the front chainring the easier a bike is to pedal whilst larger gear sprockets in the rear derailleur mean easier pedaling.

By contrast, a gear setup on a typical urban bike might feature a 40T front chainring and an 11-34T rear cassette, giving a narrower, higher geared range of gears suitable for typical town riding conditions.

Cons of Derailleur Gears

  • Not advisable to change whilst stationary or to change through many gears in one shift.
  • Open to the elements so prone to getting dirty and so becoming noisy and harder to shift.

Due to the open design, they need pretty regular cleaning and maintenance.

Sticking out near the ground as they do, derailleurs can be prone to damage too, though it normally needs a pretty severe impact to cause damage so it certainly shouldn’t be a regular occurrence.

Having said all this they are relatively easy for the user to maintain themselves compared to hub gears.

Hub Gears: Overview

trek road bike shifting gears

Riese & Muller full suspension emtb with Rohloff hub gear

In terms of numbers of gears the Rohloff system is the granddaddy of all hub gear systems with its 14 gears, but note it is quite heavy and very expensive. It does feature in a number of go-anywhere style e-bikes, including many in the Riese & Muller range , proving there’s no real reason you can’t fit the right hub gear to just about any kind of e-bike.

trek road bike shifting gears

Rohloff hub gear with belt drive

Like derailleurs, hub gears have distinct pros and cons.

Pros of Hub Gears:

  • Low maintenance. As the gears are not exposed to the elements they can usually be left to run for a few thousand miles without much attention. Your chain should also last longer as it is not constantly being moved between different gear cogs.
  • Can be shifted over several gears at a time and when stationary – ideal features for stop-start riding in towns
  • If you are looking for a belt drive e-bike rather than a chain drive one you will need a hub geared bike as derailleurs do not work with belt drives.
  • Great for riding in all conditions as they are sealed from the elements.

Cons of Hub Gears:

  • Usually heavier than derailleurs gears and more expensive, especially for the systems with more gears.
  • If something does go wrong inside the hub it’s generally a job for an expert (though this is very rare and on the flip side reliability is generally a reason for choosing hub gears).
  • You get the option of a ‘back pedal’ coaster or fully enclosed drum brake with some hub gears though these options are much more common in continental Europe than the UK and the US.
  • Often less range than a wide range derailleur system, though note Shimano’s 11 speed setup an Rohloff’s 14 speed hub gears will come close to or exceed many derailleur gear setups in the range they offer.
  • Can be harder to remove the rear wheel (for mending a flat, maintenance etc) compared to a derailleur system.

Which Is Better: A Derailleur or Hub Gear System?

The internet is full of arguments about which are better – derailleur or hub gears.

The answer is a very simple one: it depends. It comes down to your kind of cycling and what derailleur or hub gear your e-bike is running.

As a very general rule hub gears and cheaper narrow range derailleurs are used for town bikes and derailleur gears for more sport-oriented e-bikes i.e. e-road bikes or those going off-road.

Here’s a useful recap video on derailleurs and hub gears.

Advanced E-Bike Gearing Systems

Electronic & Wireless Shifting

Electronic shifting was first introduced for road riders to be able to get faultless, precise gear shifts on derailleur gear systems in an attempt to make their road bikes run as smoothly and therefore as quickly as possible when going through the gears.

In essence, there are no cables between your handlebars and the gears as there would be on a traditional system and a small motor changes makes the change. On manual systems this is done when you press a button on the handlebars, sending an electronic system down a wire (or alternatively wirelessly) to the control at the gears.

As these systems have sensors built into them they claim to be able to offer more precise shifting and to be able to calibrate themselves; traditional gear systems can suffer from things like cable stretch, knocks and bumps and just wear and tear that means the gears can sometimes skip between each other when you don’t want them to or fail to change gear at all when you do make a gear change on the handlebars.

Normally a little maintenance cures these problems, but electronic changing claims this should not happen.

As this is a relatively new technology it has taken a while for motor manufacturers like Bosch and gear manufacturers like Shimano to get together and integrate the latest motor systems with the latest electronic gears.

Here’s a pictorial demonstration of how Shimano’s electronic Di2 system works with Bosch mid motors. If you are interested in this system we recommend an extended test ride to test if it works for your style of riding.

Bosch mid-drives also work with Rohloff and Enviolo (see below) electronically shifting hub gears.

Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT): Overview

trek road bike shifting gears

CVT gear systems are recognisable by the large rear hub. This one has a large automatic shifting device on it.

Continuously variable transmission is a long-phrase for a very simple concept – there are no set number of gears on a CVT system, rather as you twist a handgrip or press a button the gearing simply moves up and down the range – it’s impossible to get out of gear and have the pedals spinning around like crazy, as can happen on conventional systems (especially hub gears), as the system is always in gear.

There are of course, as with any bike technology, pros and cons:

Pros of Continuously Variable Transmissions:

  • Ease of use – just turn the twistgrip or press the buttons on the handlebar control to select how hard or easy to pedal you want the e-bike to be. That’s it!
  • Low maintenance
  • There is an automatic option that means you don’t even have to move the twistgrip or press buttons, the system will change gear for you.

Cons of Continuously Variable Transmissions:

  • Relatively heavy and there is certainly more pedal resistance than on other gear systems.
  • Pricier than other options

Remember, e-bikes are suited to this type of gearing as the motor power means you don’t notice the extra resistance so much. However, it will mean a little less range on your battery as the electric assist system has to work harder to overcome the extra resistance.

Again, Bosch’s mid drives will interface with this system:

Bottom Bracket Gearing: Overview

It’s also possible to put the gearing around the pedal axle. Clearly this won’t work with mid-drives as this is where the motor sits, but bottom bracket gearing specialist Pinion have come up with this very sophisticated looking system that works with a rear hub motor.

The main advantage of this system is that the motor power does not go through the gears and so reduces wear and tear and stress on them. Just like other enclosed gear systems it will add weight compared to derailleur systems and may not be as efficient.

trek road bike shifting gears

German company Tout Terrain specialise in this kind of gear and motor setup and it certainly looks extremely robust and reliable for ‘workhorse’ type e-bike tasks.

So How Many Gears Do You Need On Your E-Bike Gearing System?

After we’ve said all this don’t get too hung up on what gears are required – adding motor power actually makes having lots of narrowly spaced gears (as found on traditional road racing bikes for example) less important. EBR has boiled it down to these four points.

  • The easier your terrain – both in terms of hills and surface underwheel – the fewer gears you need. For flat city riding you might even want to consider the ultimate in simplicity and low maintenance: a single speed e-bike .
  • For steep riding off-road over challenging terrain choose plenty of gears and make sure they have a wide range. Gear range – the difference between the lowest and highest gears – is often expressed as a percentage. Over 500% can be considered a very wide gear range and 300% around average and one that should enable you to tackle quite a large variety of terrain.
  • Hub gears are best for low maintenance ‘utility’ style riding where the weight of the e-bike is not too important. As sporty performance and lightweight become more important you will probably lean towards a derailleur setup (though note the use of the Rohloff on some off-road e-bikes). Hub gears are probably also easier and more intuitive to use for e-bike newbies.
  • Of all the so-called ‘advanced systems’ covered above the Enviolo CVT is probably the one most suited to absolute e-bike newbies as it is so easy to use, whilst electronically shifting options can be considered both as a low maintenance and a sporty option, depending on the particular setup. Automatic gearing is still an emerging technology so EBR strongly recommends a test ride on one of these systems before buying to check if it really suits you.

Stay tuned for more e-bike news and reviews and thanks for reading!

Reader Interactions

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August 20, 2020 at 6:29 pm

I’m a bit confused about the comment concerning “Pinion” and their bottom bracket gearing. “The main advantage of this system is that the motor power does not go through the gears and so reduces wear and tear”. Isn’t this true with any ebike that has front or rear wheel motors? The motor drives the wheel directly and does not interact with the gearing. Only a mid-drive ebike drives the bike thru the gear train, right??

trek road bike shifting gears

August 21, 2020 at 12:13 am

Hi Mark and thanks for your comment

Certainly Pinion is marketed on the basis that it avoids the stress on the transmission that comes with mid-motors you are right. They also seem to claim a little more than that though, saying ‘the ideal sequence is for the propulsive effort of the rider first to be transmitted through the central Pinion gearbox and only then boosted as required by an electric motor. This means the gearbox components are not exposed to additional forces, and every single gearshift remains “unfiltered” and has a consistent level of precision. This arrangement also retains the low wear on sprockets, the chain and toothed belt that is a typical feature of Pinion.’ I can imagine the Pinion has some advantages over a rear hub motor plus derailleur as here forces from the rear hub could result in extra stress on the drive train (depending on how smoothly the power is delivered and cuts out to the the rear hub), though the effect is likely to be less than with a powerful mid drive. But agreed, absolutely on a front hub system the motor is separate and the Pinion has no real advantage for drive chain wear over and above a rear hub gear, where in both cases the straight chain line should result in less chain wear.

It would be nice to do a review of a Pinion system on a rear hub motor system and compare the feel to other gearing systems – EBR will try and line that up for a future feature! Richard, EBR author

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August 21, 2020 at 1:43 pm

How can I determine “Gear Range” on my bike?

August 24, 2020 at 12:07 pm

See if you can ascertain your particular setup’s range from here https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html If not feel free to get back to me and I’ll see if I can help some more Richard – EBR author

' src=

August 29, 2021 at 12:57 pm

I am wanting an ebike with a mid mount motor such as Bosch or bafang and a rear wheel with enclosed gears such as Shimano. I do not want durailier gearing. This means all the motor power will be going through the gearbox. I am struggling to find a bike with this type of setup. Could it be the gearbox cannot stand the load. Even just three speeds will be enough for me.

' src=

March 12, 2022 at 7:44 pm

VVolt or Gazelle

July 20, 2022 at 6:01 pm

Biktrix also makes some mid-drives with the Sturmey Archer internal gear hub.

' src=

September 14, 2021 at 9:40 pm

How about posting input torque ratings for the IGH’s. ?????????

' src=

January 26, 2022 at 7:16 am

My first ebike was from Woosh, and had six gears. (Derailleur). I had that for two years, did five thousand miles, and decided it wasn’t suited to where I live. It’s flat round here, and I was constantly clicking up and down the cogs. There was nothing on the market with the spec I wanted, so I built my own. 3-speed Nexus and front motor. I did 17,000 miles on that, and it did all I needed, although I would have liked a rear disc brake. There was a Momentum Model-T which had a two-speed automatic hub. I think that would be ideal for my situation, but it’s a bit late in the day. Sturmey Archer make one for a disc brake.

' src=

June 15, 2022 at 3:59 pm

Does being in a higher or lower gear on a rear hub motor effect the power of the motor or how fast or how much climbing power the motor will provide?

July 20, 2022 at 5:47 pm

Motors in the hub are driving the wheel directly so there is absolutely no interaction with the gearing. The gearing will only assist the rider to ‘help’ the motor.

' src=

July 26, 2022 at 10:33 pm

I test rode enviolo automatic and didn’t like it

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NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

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Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

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Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

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Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

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Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

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Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

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Net Weight (with battery): 57.0 lbs

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Battery compartment design is weak. I have anther Moscow and ot would come lose on top. Screws are so small. I also woul brace the battery with strap due to rattling. Otherwise love my moscow

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

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Great bike, this is my second e bike and by far the best. Watching e bikes over the last 10 years I think the Moscow 29er is fantastic. I live in the Dandenongs outside Melbourne with big steep hills and the Moscow takes them all on with great pulling power and gear range. 48v with 16 amps means over 750 watts of power. The bike is big and serious so getting on and off can be tricky but you do get used to it. With the previous bike (36v at 8amps) I was scared of running out of battery on a big hill and having to push the bike home but not with the Moscow. Also if you take the front wheel off you can get it in a hatchback like my Mazda 3 Which is nice. At $2200 it is a great buy.

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trek road bike shifting gears

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trek road bike shifting gears

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trek road bike shifting gears

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IMAGES

  1. Bike gears: shifting explained for beginners

    trek road bike shifting gears

  2. How to change gears on a road bike

    trek road bike shifting gears

  3. How to shift gears on a road bike

    trek road bike shifting gears

  4. How To Change Gears On A Road Bike

    trek road bike shifting gears

  5. Bike Gears Explained

    trek road bike shifting gears

  6. How To Use Road Bike Shifters

    trek road bike shifting gears

VIDEO

  1. Bike gears explained with Lego technic (powered up)

  2. Secret CO2 Bike Tire Inflator Compartment!

  3. Trek's Road Bike Lineup

  4. Mountain Bike Basics #3: Shifting Gears

  5. How To Change Gears On A Road Bike

  6. How to Ride a Motorcycle- Part Two How to Shift gears on a Motorcycle, downshifting, and the Clutch

COMMENTS

  1. How to shift gears on a road bike

    This means the same shifting motions you use with your left hand deliver the opposite result with your right hand. By pushing the whole right hand lever inward, the rear derailleur shifts the chain to a bigger cog—an easier but slower gear. Pushing the smaller inner lever inward will shift the chain to a smaller cog—a harder but faster gear.

  2. Mastering Gear Shifts: A Step-by-Step Guide for Trek Road Bikes

    Getting Started With Gear Shifting. A trek road bike is an exceptional bike for enthusiasts who love speed and adventure. Changing gears on a trek road bike is an essential skill that any rider should possess. Proper gear shifting is vital to ensure a smooth ride and avoid any unnecessary strain on the body.

  3. Shifting Gears

    Shifting this lever moves the chain across the cluster of cogs on the rear wheel. On a newer bike, there are eight or nine cogs and they only vary slightly in size. The larger the cog, the easier it is to pedal and vice versa. Contrarily, the left lever makes larger differences in effort. Use it to make it considerably harder or easier to pedal.

  4. How To: Shift a Road Bike

    Shop Road Bikes: http://bit.ly/2zzEo6PKnowing how to shift the gears on your road bikes helps you ride fast and climb hills with ease. Keep watching to lear...

  5. Owners manual

    The big lever moves you to the big (harder) ring. The small lever moves you to the small (easier) ring. Choose your gear early. Don't shift when your pedals are under load, like when going uphill. Choose your climbing gear early so you're ready for the hill. If you do need to change gears under load, try to ease up on the pedals while shifting.

  6. A How To Guide on Shifting Bike Gears

    Store Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00 am - 6:00 pm. Find a Bicycle Warehouse Store Near You! Back to Top. Shifting the gears on a bicycle can be a daunting task at first, with a lot of numbers and two derailleurs to keep track of. In addition to braking, shifting gears on a bike is one of the fundamental mechanical functions of the bike.

  7. How to Shift Your Gears (with Video)

    Video tutorial shows how to shift gears on your bike, based on a 21-speed system, but applies to 24 and 27 speed systems as well. ... FAR from equaling the "serious" bikes that I owned back in the 1990's. The first Trek I had was a gorgeous blue road bike - worthy of all the gawkers it inspired. My Klein Pro Race MTB was the finest all ...

  8. How to Shift Gears on a Bike

    For example, quickly downshift two gears with one long press on the right shifter, then immediately move to the big chainring using the left shifters. 4. Don't Shift When You Put Down Pressure. Don't shift when the drivetrain mechanism is under lots of tension; otherwise, the chain could skip or come off.

  9. How to Shift Gears on a Road Bike

    Most road bike shift levers are curved pieces of carbon, plastic, or aluminum that fit in the palm of your hand. You will typically squeeze the shift lever (closing it towards the bars) to apply the brakes and push the lever in (towards the midline of the bike) to shift gears.

  10. How To Change Gears On A Trek Road Bike

    To change gears, you need to push on the shifter with your thumb. The number on the shifter corresponds to the gear you are in. For example, if the shifter is in the 2 position, you are in the second gear. Locate the shifters on your handlebars. On most trek road bikes, the shifters will be located on the down tube of the frame.

  11. Learn To Change Gears On A Road Bike Like A Pro

    TLDR Version. To change gears on a road bike, use the left shifter to adjust the front chainring and the right shifter to adjust the rear cassette. Shift to lower gears for uphill rides and higher gears for flat or descending terrains. Pedal lightly while shifting and avoid backpedaling. Avoid cross-chaining, skipping gears, and incomplete shifts.

  12. How to shift gears on a road bike

    This means that the same shifting motions you use with your left hand deliver the opposite result with your right hand. By pushing the whole right hand lever inwards, the rear derailleur shifts the chain to a bigger cog - an easier but slower gear. Pushing the smaller inner lever inwards will shift the chain to a smaller cog - a harder but ...

  13. Electronic drivetrain

    SRAM RED AXS Front Derailleur. $344.00 $430.00. SALE. Compare. Select a color.

  14. Troubleshooting Common Rear Derailleur Shifting Problems on a Bike

    Turn the high limit screw clockwise roughly half of a revolution, then gently turn the pedals to see if the chain stays put on the highest cog. If you are using a bike-stand this will be far easier, as you can let the derailleur's spring pull it toward the frame while adjusting the limit screw precisely below the cog.

  15. Bike shifters

    SRAM XX1 Eagle Single Click Trigger Shifter Rear. $143.20 $179.00. SALE. Compare.

  16. How to shift gears on a city bike

    This means the same shifting motions you use with your left hand deliver the opposite result with your right hand. By pulling the shifter trigger with your index finger, the rear derailleur shifts the chain to a smaller cog—a harder but faster gear. Pushing the paddle with your thumb will shift the chain to a bigger cog—a slower but easier ...

  17. How To Adjust Bike Shifting

    Start with ¼ turns only and try the shifting again. Keep trying ¼ turns until you have it just right. There are a few screws on the derailleur that will be tempting to adjust. Don't! These are already adjusted to their positions to stop the derailleur from shifting the chain into the spokes and into the frame on the two most extreme gears.

  18. How to shift gears on a mountain bike

    Right hand—shifting the rear derailleur between cogs (smaller adjustments) Your right shifter controls your rear derailleur, which shifts the chain across cogs in your cassette. In a cassette, the smaller size cogs are actually the harder, faster gears and the bigger cogs are the easier, slower gears. By pushing the smaller shift paddle, the ...

  19. How to shift gears on a road bike

    Shifting with your left hand will cause more dramatic changes in gearing and is helpful for when you're riding up and down hills. By pushing the whole left hand lever inwards, the derailleur will push the chain up to a bigger chainring - a harder gear. A harder gear takes more effort to pedal, but you'll move further with each pedal stroke.

  20. How to Use Gears on E-bike? Mechanic and Electric

    Gears are the same as speeds - a bike with 24 gears is a 24-speed bike. Electric bikes generally have 1, 3, 18, 21, 24, 27, 32, or even 40 speeds. Lower numbers are the low gears, and higher numbers are the high gears. The first gear is low gear. Twenty-fourth gear is high gear. Pretty easy so far. Shifting gears is going from one gear to ...

  21. Fixed-gear bicycle

    A fixed-gear bicycle An 18-tooth sprocket that attaches to the rear hub of fixed-gear bike Track sprockets are typically attached and removed from the hub by screwing them with a chain whip.This tool incorporates a lockring spanner for securing a reverse threaded lockring against the sprocket. A fixed-gear bicycle (or fixed-wheel bicycle in British usage, [citation needed] commonly known in ...

  22. Guide To E-Bike Gearing Systems

    The Shimano Nexus series pictured above comes in 3,4, 5,7,8 and 11 speed options. The 8 speed is probably the most common option on e-bikes. You might also see hub gears abbreviated to IGH (internal gear hubs). Riese & Muller full suspension emtb with Rohloff hub gear. In terms of numbers of gears the Rohloff system is the granddaddy of all hub ...

  23. NCM Moscow Plus

    An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it. BIKE COMPONENTS Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 2