bmw e46 cruise control always on

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E46 Cruise Control Does not Work

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Hey guys. I have issue with my cruise control (E46 before facelift, drive-by-wire for the cruise). Until couple of weeks ago it was working fine. Now, the motor below the hood is buzzing, no matter if the cruise is switched on or not, it is enough to have the car started or the ignition to be on. However, when I press I/O, then reach say 80kmh and press +, the speed keeps dropping. When I involve brakes, the green light turns off and I can't switch it on with the I/O before the next start of the car. No fault codes (including pending), the MAF sensor is new and the problem cannot be related to it, the taillights are fine. Any input would be appreciated, as I don't know what more to check and do.

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In the 6 cyl cars all the cruise modules are part of the DME and it's all drive by wire. If you have a drive by wire car and the car still drives the DME to throttle body part works fine. I'd focus more on the cruise buttons to DME part. Also could be a brake or clutch switch malfunctioning causing it to not set. I'd get a BMW code reader and or INPA and see what you can diagnose.

E90 Can Bus Project: E46 Can bus Project: Home made I-bus ipod interface using an Arduino: LS1-E36 build Log: (disassembled) Electric powered E-36 or uh Ev-36: (disassembled)

Thanks Thaniel, in fact it is 318i (4 cyl), year 2000. Run a check with INPA last night. There is one error that shows up for the Cruise Control module (FGR2_5): 17 Stellglied hat max. Abschaltzeit ueberschritten After I clear it, it appears again. I am not quite sure what it means. In Google I found only one (literally!) result with exact same text, it is not useful at all. Any ideas?

Last edited by rako92; 04-04-2017 at 04:41 AM .

I opened the actuator and think the issue is that both the parts are not being connected together when needed (should it be when I preas the + button?) And that's why the error comes up and the cruise does not engage. Other than that the actuator works/buzzes any time, no matter if the green light is on or off. Is that how it should be?

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Cruise control does not work, cruise control does not work on my 95' 750i., 1991 535i no brake lights and cruise control does not disengage with brake, question regarding heated seats e46 2001 325ci (does not work on driver side), pdc (parking distance control) does not work, help please.

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Cruise Control will not switch on

By black66 , June 27, 2011 in Technical help (E46)

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Had my 2003 330ci sport for 2 months and the cruise control has never functioned.

Pressing the I/O button does not switch on the green light in the dash, None of the cruise buttons do anything either.

Fuse 9 - speed control - is not blown.

Stereo controls on the left hand side of the wheel function OK(but how many harness connectors are there to the steerign wheel>).

Many Thanks

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Hi Dave. Firstly, does your car definitely have cruise control? Annoyingly all the cars were shipped with the same steering wheel controls whether they had that function or not. Mine, for instance, has all the Bluetooth control buttons, but my car wasn't specced with Bluetooth as an option.

Have you unplugged your MAF meter? Had the previous owner unplugged it? Check it's plugged in.

Thanks guys, here is some more info I have found out on my way home tonight.

If I turn the key to ignition on(but not start the car) I can switch on cruise control - green symbol in dash illuminates.

I can drive off and cruise control works as it should - I can set speed, accelerate and decellerate.

However, as soon as I touch the brake pedal it switches off the cruise control sysytem totally - light goes out and cruise cannot be resumed/cannot be switched back on.

If I have foot on the brake when starting car, cruise will not switch on.

I can coast the car, turn off engine, restart the car whilst moving and cruise can be switched on and used, but as soon as the brake pedal is touched aain the system is switched off and cannot be switched on.

Very strange.

Well my launch X-341 diagnostics kit doesnt want to diagnose the cruise control system for some reason, so I guess it's a trip to my local indy.

That's very odd about it not working after pressing the brake pedal.

When I brake it cuts the CC out, but leaves the green symbol there on the dash. If I then press the button to return to set speed it does just that.

Indy may be the best bet :/

Thanks guys.

That's very odd about it not working after pressing the brake pedal. When I brake it cuts the CC out, but leaves the green symbol there on the dash. If I then press the button to return to set speed it does just that. Indy may be the best bet :/

Yes, that is exactly as it works on my friends e46.

I reckon you've got a duff sensor somewhere preventing it from activating while moving

Yes possibly, I wonder if it has a dedicated sensor - I read something about one being on a rear hub?

No faults codes on ABS/speed sensors though - I could get into diagnostics on the braking system.

Just found this:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330178

Get outside and check!

MAF was connected.

Found this also: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=619498

I did reset a Air Flow Meter related code yesterday though - just presumed it was a sporadic one,

I will check tonight to see if it has reoccured.

Car doesn't seem down on power or economy, although it may have been down on power since I've had it !!

Genuine BMW MAF is the best buy ?

Could I try a MAF from a 325 to test it?

MAF for your car will be around £180 From ECP for a Bosch item.

Was going to say it was MAF related, oh wait I did MAF for your car will be around £180 From ECP for a Bosch item.

Maybe I will attempt an alcohol clean before replacement.

Thanks all, I will report how i get on.

Halfrauds do electrical contact cleaner for £4, the only other place I could find it was maplin and that was a tenner.

Got my MAF off, all looks clean.

But before I waste my halfrauds purchase, i presume the MAF have 2 sensing elements?

It looks like one of mine is broken if you click on below?

zimzimmer46

Def broken m8. Maybe someone tried cleaning before and got abit heavy handed with a cotton bud:(

On a good side get a new maff and you should have a quicker car:)

Got my MAF off, all looks clean. But before I waste my halfrauds purchase, i presume the MAF have 2 sensing elements? It looks like one of mine is broken if you click on below? [ Bummer.

That's why it doesn't work. Your ECU will have been running on default since you've had it (I think it relies on cam sensor or O2 sensor, can't remember which). Your car should be transformed with a new MAF. Better mpg and more responsive.

Chimp Choker

type the bosch part number into google, im sure the same MAF is fitted on a Mazda, and is way cheaper from there dealer network, over BMW

or try your local bosch dealer

Aren't the OEM suplier piersburg? Anyone bought direct from them?

Cheers for the advice.

The one on mine, assuming its original, is VDO Siemens - I forgot to look at the date code when I removed.

Anyone have the Bosch part number?

For info main dealer are £254 plus VAT and GSF quoted me £197 plus VAT for Bosch.

They did have an unbranded 82 quid one, but I'll pass on that

CliffThomson

I have a spare, 6 month old boxed Bosch MAF. Bought from ECP, in jan of this year and it was on the car for about a week, til i found out the supposed "expert" had diagnosed the problem incorrectly.

I took it off the car, fitted the original one and fixed the split hose that was the real issue and ECP would not accept it as a return. If it's the correct one and you're interested, PM me and i am sure we can save you a few £.

It has 6 months warranty remaining on it, so assuming you do need a new one and i've no problem with you substituting it to test (which would confrm if your issue is fixed) you could save yourself a few £.

it's just taking up shelf space at the moment.

PM me if you're interested.

I have a spare, 6 month old boxed Bosch MAF. Bought from ECP, in jan of this year and it was on the car for about a week, til i found out the supposed "expert" had diagnosed the problem incorrectly. I took it off the car, fitted the original one and fixed the split hose that was the real issue and ECP would not accept it as a return. If it's the correct one and you're interested, PM me and i am sure we can save you a few £. It has 6 months warranty remaining on it, so assuming you do need a new one and i've no problem with you substituting it to test (which would confrm if your issue is fixed) you could save yourself a few £. it's just taking up shelf space at the moment. PM me if you're interested. C.

Thank you for this kind offer, but I had already taken the gamble of a second hand VDO/Siemens unit from eBay for £40.

Arrived yesterday, all intact, gave it a clean with contact cleaner and just installed it at lunch.

Cruise control light now does not go out when brake pedal is depressed - so my initial problem appears to be solved !!

Not driven the car yet though so cannot comment on performance changes,

Also, I suppose I will have to remove the MAF fault code for it to be fully back on song.

Thanks for all the help

I'd try disconnecting the battery for half an hour and see if that clears it. Certain codes it will, certain ones it wont.

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bmw cruise control is not working help!

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hi guys, after i scanned my car for diy the mechanic reset the codes and told me i had to replace the throttle body..that sounds fine to me but when i left the garage in order to get the throttle body i got a weird fault on my dashboard screen which is an exclamation mark next to "D" sign like this " ! D " however my gear is working fine and there is no problem at all with it..i thought after i replace the Throttle Body the problem would be gone but that ddnt solve the problem so i took the car back to the mechanic and he got this fault " brake switch" so i changed it but still the problem not solved.. i changed it twice but "negative"!! also the cruise control stopped working so is there anyone on earth can tell me whats going on for god's sake coz im driving crazy... my car is BMW E46 Mod 99 323CI  

There may be a second switch on the brake pedal that turns off cruise when you press the brakes. If that has been left unplugged or damaged, cruise will not work. But first, see if there's a fuse for the cruise control that may have blown. See the e46 wiki link above your post above for more info.  

No problem. Actually, there are lots of people here who care, but not everyone will have enough knowledge to respond to this. Since I had a similar issue with cruise on another car I know this myself, otherwise I would have nothing to offer. The symptoms you have are not very common. I can offer this: the throttle body has two components on some cars - a sender unit on the gas pedal, and the actual throttle body on the engine intake. Sometimes the problem is with the pedal.  

just an update , the problem is solved it turned out to be the " Gear Computer " i changed it and like a magic it worked fine !!! N.B: if u change the gear computer u need to program it...  

Glad you got it fixed! Never heard of that. Can u post a link to the part so others will know what fixed your problem? Thanks for posting back!!!  

Hi guys, I can' t get my cruise control to work on my 2006 325 X I I looked at the fuse box and it had a 7.5 fuse I saw that it takes a 10 and I switched it out I kind of thought that wasn't the problem but I switched it anyways can anybody out there to help me and let me know what else I can look at I just got the car at an auction and have had little details that I am trying to fix. thanks everybody  

Your car is an E90 , not an E46....try the E90 Forum....  

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Cruise control is not working (solved: bad MAF)

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edit: solved by new MAF sensor, see post #27. I did some searching, but a couple threads I found on this ended without the OP saying if it was fixed and how. Symptoms: first noticed I could not turn on the cruise control going down the highway. Press the I/O, no green light. Tried to set the speed by pushing + just in case the green light was broke, no luck. After reading up a bit, I checked if I could get it to turn on in the garage... never touching the brake. Green light comes on and goes off with the button as much as I want, until I hit the brake. Once I touch the brake, the cruise light won't turn on until I do an ignition cycle. I've seen MAF and brake switch come up often in older threads. Seems to be some disagreement on the MAF. My brake lights work fine, and I didn't have any trouble lights. But I decided to try a new brake light switch... mostly because it's so much cheaper than a MAF. No change with the new brake light sensor. I'm about to order a new MAF (cleaned it a couple weeks back with no change). Can anyone confirm that the MAF definitely fixed their cruise issue? Does a bad MAF makes sense with being able to turn on/off the cruise until I press the brake?  

MAF is an expensive item that is not returnable in most cases. You must be certain that the MAF is the problem, I have never seen one cause the Cruise to not work. Try this test. Stop on the side of the highway and cycle the ignition off then on to clear the system. You only need a place where you can get to 30 mph or more without using the brakes, then set the Cruise. You stated that you can make the green light turn on and off as much as you want until you use the brakes, then you cannot make the light come on again until you cycle the ignition off then on. The green light should never go away until you hit the 1/0 button. When the system is enabled, the light should remain on until it is disabled. Once it is enabled, then it can be engaged or disengaged. You attain the set speed and engage the system after it has been enabled. As the conditions change, you depress the brake or the clutch and the system is disengaged although it is still enabled. When the conditions allow, you can select the Resume function if the system is still enabled. The car will increase its speed until it attains the previously set speed and then stay there. If I read your symptom set correctly, I'm reading that depressing the brake pedal not only disengages the system, it disables it also. The green light on the dash indicates to you that you can press the Set or Resume button and cause the Cruise to engage and make the car do what the button says it should do. I say, Set button, but it's really the + Button. If the system is on, enabled, then you depress the + button to store the speed and remain there, or you hold the + button to increase the speed and then hold, or you can press the gas pedal to attain a new speed then depress the + button to hold the new speed. Resume sends the car to full throttle until it gets to whatever speed was set before the brake or clutch was depressed. (Ignore references to clutch if you have an automatic.) The clutch/brake disengages the system, but does not disable it. If on, you must depress the 1/0 button to disable the system. Your car sounds like once the system is disengaged, it cannot be engaged again until you cycle the ignition. If you can stop on the side of the road and cycle the ignition, then proceed up to speed without using the brakes, then the system should be able to be set. If true then you have something wrong with the brake switch or the controller for the Cruise. I completely get that this is not the right way for the system to work, but if it works this way then it's a clue. I have never seen any relationship with the MAF and the Cruise Control. The brake switch makes sense, the MAF does not.  

Thanks for the idea. I forgot the mention this is an automatic, but I still should be able to get down to 10 mph or so, shift to nuetral, cycle the ignition, and shift back into drive without having to hit the brake. Gonna run out to a country road this evening and give this a try.  

Get PA Soft BMW Scanner 1.4, and read the trouble codes from ALL the modules. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RHJTS2 Especially check the IKE (instrument cluster), DME (engine computer), EGS (automatic transmission computer), and ABS modules.  

I had a similar "no cruise" problem. It was the MAF. I replaced it with a seimens/VDO MAF from fcpeuro. Get OBDFusion and the appropriate interface adapter. iOS uses wifi, android uses Bluetooth. Buy a Veepeek adapter from Amazon. Search for threads about OBDFusion with posts by jfoj. He's the resident guru. OBDFusion will let you see the what the MAF is reporting.  

I was able to get the cruise to work today by going to neutral, shutting down, restarting, and shifting back to drive... all cruise functions worked normal until I pressed the brake. Threw a code shutting down and restarting. So this had me thinking either the wiring for the brake switch is bad somewhere (since I just put in a new brake switch), or more likely the control module. Then I read the code... P0102! Well sht! I got this code 1 other time when I shut down and restarted the engine within a couple seconds. I know several people have fixed their cruise issue with a new MAF, and I'm certainly no expert mechanic, but I just can't wrap my head around how a low input reading on the MAF circuit would prevent the cruise from turning on. Is this a coincidence? Why did this code only come up with a quick ignition cycle? My code reader has about as much capability as I do, so I'll be looking at acquiring and OBDFusion set-up here shortly so I can watch the MAF readings. Interesting reading on the P0102 code and coolant / oil capillary action to the DME connection. Just replace the entire cooling system and valve cover gasket due to leaks. So, I clearly need to look at the DME connections. Seriously... P0102. Totally convinced it wasn't anything to do with the MAF since I was able to get it to work as long as I kept off the brake, and then I get that code...  

Okay, you have a clue. If the Cruise works before you use the brake, but not after, then you have somewhere to look. Back to Enable and Engage... You enable the system with the 1/0 button and engage it with the + button. You disengage it with the brake pedal or the - button. Now, the - button only disengages for the duration that it is held, then when it is released the new speed will be held until the brake pedal is depressed or the 1/0 button is pressed again. If you get the system to work if you do not use the brakes beforehand, then it stands to reason that the brake switch is high on the list of usual suspects. You have a P0102, this points to the MAF. I have never heard of a MAF keeping the Cruise Control at bay. This is news to me. Seems that others can confirm it as true, so go that way.  

The only time my cruise wouldn't work was when I forgot to reconnect the MAF plug, I drove into town and then got the ses light. I don't think the cruise worked before the light came on but once the MAF was reconnected everything worked.  

I replaced the brake light switch after the cruise started acting up. Same symptoms with both the old and new switch.  

The cruise control won't work if the MAF is bad. I had this problem last summer: the cruise control couldn't be enabled. Checked the MAF using OBDFusion and the readings were flaky. Bought a Siemens/VDO MAF from fcpeuro and the cruise works perfectly. I'm betting the MAF is the kulprit!  

I wish I could explain why the MAF takes the Cruise Control off line. I cannot. The MAF should be blind to the activities of the brakes. If the MAF is killing the cruise, it should do so whether the brakes are applied first or not. Remember, the OP says that the Cruise works if the brakes are not used first.  

DME uses the MAF value to calculate engine load which is needed for many things, such as AT shifting, fuel economy estimation, cruise control adjustments. Hence why a faulty MAF can indirectly disable cruise control, cause an EGS fault (cog light), and other problems. Most likely a faulty MAF is the OP's problem here.  

Doesn't a bad MAF reading trigger a default fuel trim setting? My guess is that default setting overrides the cruise control setting.  

He reported a P0102, which is a MAF fault code.  

That's a big part of the reason I haven't sprung for a new MAF yet. Especially when I could get the cruise engage light to turn on / off in the garage. It seems that if my MAF was causing the cruise to not work, it shouldn't work all the time... not just after I touch the brake. I'm hoping to keep this thread active long enough where someone found a pinched wire somewhere or other fix they did after trying the Brake light switch. I'm going to try to dig up a schematic this weekend that shows the brake light switch wiring, and see if I can determine which wire goes to the cruise controller and check continuity. Thanks for all the input so far!  

If the MAF was killing the Cruise, it would always kill the Cruise, not just after the brakes have been applied. The green light that you speak of is part of the enable side of the system. It should remain on at all times whether the system is engaged or not. You enable (set the system to ON), then reach the desired speed and engage. If the conditions change and you use the brakes, then the system is disengaged but remains enabled, so the light should remain lit. I have had several cars that use the green light, and a few that do not. Those that use the light keep it on at all times (after the system is switched ON) to keep you apprised of the readiness state of the system. If the light is on, then you can set the speed, if the light is not on, then you cannot set the speed. On the cars that I have owned (my E36 among them) that do not have the green light, they just let you set the speed at any time when setting the speed is valid -- above 30 mph, for example. In the case of no indicator light, the system is always "enabled", and you attain the desired speed and set it. Use the brakes and it cuts out. Use the Resume feature, and the car returns to the previously set speed. I'm a bit confused by your statements that the green light goes out when you use the brakes to disengage the system.  

What if the MAF is in a soft fail condition, and is not responding fast enough to the change in fuel trim when the brakes are applied, causing a fail mode? I'm clearly stretching here, but am wondering if you could find someone that would let you swap MAFs to test cruise control on EACH vehicle? At least you could rule out the MAF.  

SSchwab said: swap MAFs to test cruise control on EACH vehicle Click to expand...

A huge problem with the E46 schematics is that they are all "black box". You will have trouble finding a schematic that helps you.  

Enable and disable turn the system on and off. Engage and disengage make the system keep the car going at the set speed or not. You turn the system on (enable) and the green light comes on, but the car continues going whatever speed your foot tells it to go. You get to the speed you want and press the + button to engage the system, it now goes at a speed that does not need input from your foot to maintain. You can use your foot to increase the speed, then press the + button again to set the new higher speed, or you can press and hold the - button to coast, then release the - button to hold the new lower speed. You depress the brake of clutch pedal to disengage the system, but it should remain enabled -- it no longer maintains the speed, but is poised to do so when you depress the + button again when a new speed is attained, or return to the previously set speed when you press the Resume button. BUTTONS 1/0 = ON/OFF. This enables the system and turns the green light on or off. + - = Set/increase speed, and coast/decrease speed. If the system is enabled (the green light is on) the + button will store the current speed or increase the speed then set the new speed, the - button will cause the car to coast and then store the new slower speed when released. There is a button with a pictogram that looks like a speedometer, same as the green light. This resumes the previously set speed after using the brakes or clutch. The only thing that should make the light come on or go off is the 1/0 button. All it indicates is that the system is ready to be set to maintain the speed. It does not indicate that the speed is currently being maintained or not, so it should not go off until you set the system off with the 1/0 button. If the brake pedal activity is making the light go out, then I don't know what the problem is, but the brake pedal switch or the vehicle coding folat to the top of the list. I don't know if the behavior (operating parameters) of the Cruise Control can be changed by coding. I don't have an explanation for why this would even be desirable. So, when you attain a desired speed and press the 1/0 button, the green light comes on. The vehicle speed still requires input from your foot. You press the + button and the speed holds steady. Now press and hold the + button, the speed increases until you release the button, the speed then holds at that speed. Press the - button and the vehicle coasts to a lesser speed, release the - button and the new speed is held steady. This is all normal, and the green light remains on the entire time. You depress the brake because conditions demand it. The Cruise drops out and the car slows. You release the brake and the car coasts. The green light should still remain lit. You press the gas pedal to regain speed and press the + button again, the new speed is held. Or, if you are above about 30 mph, you can press the speedometer button and the car will regain the previously (before the brake pedal was applied) set speed. This can be, or will feel like, full throttle acceleration. I am not sure that it is or isn't, but there is heavy throttle application. If the speed drops below 30, you cannot resume the previously set speed. The green light will remain on to indicate that the system is waiting for you to input a command to store the speed and hold it. If you press the 1/0 button at any time, the system will be disabled, and disengaged. The green light will go out. You are reporting a failure mode where the system works as described until you depress the brake pedal. The system disengages as it should -- it no longer maintains the set speed -- but it cannot be re-engaged again until you bring the car to a full stop and cycle the ignition off then back on, and then bring the car to speed without applying the brake at any time. Basically, if the brakes are applied, the Cruise does not work. If you set the Cruise before the brakes are ever used, then it works until the brakes are used. Once the brakes are applied, the green light goes off and the Cruise Control System cannot be used again until the ignition switch cycles off then on. Is that correct?  

I'm not ready to accept that the MAF is the problem since the Cruise works up until the point where the brakes are applied, then it completely shuts down. My guess is that you need the control module. For some reason, the disengage signal from the brake pedal is being treated as a disable signal, and it shuts the system down until it is fully reset by cycling the key. I have an E46 manual, but the circuit for the Cruise is not helpful at all.  

I think this is at the point of hooking it up to some sort of diagnostic computer, whether it's your own, using various software, or a shop. IMHO, without software, this is beyond shadetree work.  

Agreed...after you swap MAFs with a friend to confirm it is NOT the cause.  

P0102 comes up every time I start the car now. I will put in a new MAF this weekend.  

I checked DME connectors for corrosion today. I should have done this before ordering the MAF. All clean, so dodged that one at least.  

Put a new MAF in last night. Cruise immediately worked as it should. Continued to work fine this morning too. I really don't understand why it would work if I didn't touch the brake if it was a MAF issue. Seems like it would not work regardless of the brake pre… Thanks for all the help and input!  

Really! Personally, I'd like to get an explanation as to why this is true. I cannot see how the Cruise would take a dive after depressing the brake pedal if the MAF was on the fritz. I'm not arguing that I am right and that all must agree with me or I'm launching the missiles. I'm just saying that what I know causes me conflict with the reported resolution of the symptom set. I need to know more.  

I totally agree! I'm really hoping someone knows why and shares, because I looked at a lot of different things first thinking if the MAF was causing this the cruise wouldn't work ever. The only reason I replaced the MAF is because the code started popping up every ignition cycle. Currently it makes no sense to me at all...  

I am not surprised that the MAF was your issue. And it makes a little sense to me that an engineer would NOT want you to be comfortable driving very long with a bad MAF, and cruise control is a comfort feature for long drives.  

A bad MAF should send the mixture rich. Back in the day when Grandpa had to set the choke on a cold start, the choke sent the mixture rich. A bad MAF would be sorta like setting the choke. As for the comfort, I can drive my cars for hours without touching the Cruise Control settings. "Never," is an absolute, and I abhor absolutes so I will not say that I never use the Cruise, but I never use the Cruise, so it is nonsensical that a bad MAF would affect the Cruise, AND only do so if the brakes are applied at some point. The main concern of the engineers' should be the health and safety of the machine he has engineered, and as such having the MAF get in the way of the cruise control that might reasonably never be turned on, then the engineering falls short. I understand that Cruise is a comfort feature, but lots of people might never ever use this feature, so engine operations would persist for hours, and miles upon miles, with a MAF problem and since they are not using the Cruise, they might never know. I'm not buying the argument that comfort is the tie-in here, that's all. I am only a single data point, but I can drive for hours without the cruise control. Indeed, I would not spend the money on cruise control if it was a separate option. I have it on every car I own because it is part of a feature package that includes things I actually want, but I seldom use it. Frankly, I am not comfortable with the Cruise turned on. Remember the failure mode here, the Cruise works until the brakes come on, then it turns off. It does not simply disengage, the entire system shuts down and cannot be turned on until the key is cycled off then on again. So, the car works fine the driver manages to get someplace where the Cruise can be activated, and he does so before the brake pedal is applied. The Cruise functions normally. Then, as the conditions warrant, the brakes are applied, the Cruise turns off, but the failure mode is that it cannot be turned on again. The MAF is the problem. THIS is the part that I need to have explained. I am having two problems understanding this, 1.) the MAF can make the Cruise not work, and 2.) it only causes the Cruise to not work if the brakes are applied first. If the brakes are not applied, the MAF is still just as bad as it if the brakes are applied, yet the Cruise only does not work if the brakes are applied.  

jdstrickland said: The main concern of the engineers' should be the health and safety of the machine he has engineered, and as such having the MAF get in the way of the cruise control that might reasonably never be turned on, then the engineering falls short. Click to expand...

Yeah the MAF can cause all sorts of strange issues. It will also prevent brake and throttle at the same time. I learned that on my 128 when I went to heel toe downshift after I installed my AFE intake. I put in the used MAF that was with the kit to see if it worked. It prevented cruise control and braking while on the throttle. I put in my original MAF and the car worked perfectly after resetting the code it eventually threw for the MAF. The computer logic is likely not "OMG BAD MAF DISABLE CRUISE". It's just more likely that is a consequence of the computer switching to another control method that does not include accommodations for cruise control or something like throttle and brake at the same time. It could also be a safety thing. It may use the MAF to check for throttle and pedal position rationality. Since it doesn't have that, the logic is then, when the brakes are applied, cut throttle input entirely. That's the safest thing. At least that's more reasonable that HUR DUR ENGINEERS R DUMB GAISZ  

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